Riding correct posture. Correct posture on a horse

How to ride a horse?

Horseback riding is becoming more and more popular every day. This is especially true for large cities, where communication with wildlife is minimized. And, of course, beginner riders are concerned about the problem of how to learn to ride a horse?

To get the maximum pleasure from such a walk, you need to imagine how to ride a horse. First of all, get to know the animal you are going to ride, find out the name of your horse, stroke it on the neck, say a few kind words.

Before the start of the walk, the stable employee who will accompany you will instruct you and tell you how to ride a horse correctly.

How to ride

To ride a horse you need:

• approach her on the left
• take a rein in your left hand,
• with the same hand, grasp the front of the saddle,
• put your left foot in the stirrup
• grab the back of the saddle with your right hand,
• push off with the right foot from the ground,
• pull yourself up on your hands and, giving the body a little forward, transfer its weight to the left leg,
• rise on your hands, as in push-ups,
• throw the right leg over the saddle and insert into the stirrup.

Here you are in the saddle.

Often, it is very difficult to raise the left leg to the height of the stirrup, in this case you can use a special stand, which, as a rule, is in the stables that provide horseback riding services.

How to sit in the saddle

When sitting on a horse, you need to keep your back straight. Place the toe of the foot in the stirrup, and lower the heel as far down as possible. The legs should not hang, but they should not be strongly bent at the knee - this is regulated by a long stirrup. An employee of the stable will help you choose the optimal length.

Stay in the saddle with your feet, trying, as it were, to squeeze the saddle with your knees. They hug the horse with a part from the knee and below, trying to keep this part of the leg perpendicular to the ground.

How to ride a horse: movement and control

The horse is controlled by a rein held in two hands. In order for the horse to turn in a certain direction, you need to slightly pull the reins towards you with the corresponding hand. Please note: you do not need to take your hands to the side.

To start the movement or accelerate it, the horse must hit the heels on the sides. The more active the blow, the faster the horse will go. You need to start and end the movement with a step, so that at the beginning of the walk the horse warms up and you get used to each other, at the end the horse and rider restore their breath. After you learn how to ride a horse at a walk, you can switch to a trot. Trotting requires more skill. To make it easier for you to ride, you need to rise and fall in the saddle in time with the movement. Perform this movement on the muscles inside hips.

Stopping and dismounting

Stop the horse by gently pulling the reins towards yourself with both hands at the same time. Before you get off the horse, thank him by patting his hand on the neck and praising him. In order to get down from it you need:

• release both legs from the stirrups,
• lean forward, as if lying on the neck of a horse,
• throw the right leg over the back of the horse's back,
• jump off.

When you have descended to the ground, treat the animal with an apple, carrot, dried or refined sugar. Ask friends to record how you ride a horse on video or take a photo for memory. Leisure and communication with animals bring pleasure and health benefits.

A person has been riding a horse for several thousand years, during which the animal has evolved from an ordinary means of transportation to a faithful friend, helper and even a doctor. At the present time, horseback riding is communication with animals, a form of recreation and a hobby, as well as a sport. However, unlike the old days, today not every person knows how to stay in the saddle. In our review, we present complete guide how to learn to ride a horse, as well as what means of controlling it exist.

Basically, horses are ridden for pleasure or sports.

Learning to ride a horse is very similar to learning to drive a car. A person cannot learn to drive a car well without knowing its details and rules. traffic. In the same way, he will not be able to ride a horse without special theoretical training. First, a beginner rider gets acquainted with the characteristics of horses, learns the basics of care and proper handling of animals, elements of equipment and equestrian equipment.

It is also important to understand the psychology of animals, their vision of the world, the peculiarities of physiology, because, unlike a car, they do not have special levers and buttons. Therefore, the lessons from the course "How to ride a horse" consist of long and hard training.

Only with hard training and the study of information about horses can you comprehend all the subtleties of riding.

The statement that every person can sit down and successfully ride a horse the first time is false. As practice shows, an inexperienced rider will be able to stay in the saddle until the first unpredictable situation. In the same way, the skill of the driver is shown under emergency conditions.

Riding training is based on three "pillars" of developing the correct position, controlling the horse and achieving contact with it. These principles are inseparable and equivalent, therefore their study takes place in a complex.

You cannot first learn how to sit correctly in the saddle, and only then control the horse. The seat is part of the contact with the horse and part of the ability to lead it.

Correct fit

Proper seating is the foundation of how to ride a horse. Without it, it will be impossible to achieve balance in the saddle, maintain balance when moving and “conduct” the horse. This concept includes the necessary position of the arms, legs, as well as the back. The posture should be natural, comfortable, free movement. Follow the instructions below.

1. Sit in the deepest part of the saddle, straighten your back so that your head, shoulders, pelvis and heels are located on the same imaginary line.
2. Distribute the weight on the buttocks, relax upper part body, lower your shoulders and do not spread your elbows.
3. Keep your arms straight, relaxed, to feel the movement of the horse's head. Distribute the brushes at the level of the withers.
4. Turn the leg (part of the leg from the knee to the heel) inward, turning the knees towards the saddle, as if hugging the horse. At the same time, keep your socks straight, lowering your heel a little down.
5. It is very important to adjust the length of the stirrups so that the legs are in the correct position.

Sitting on a horse, you need to monitor the position of the back, arms and legs

The emancipation of muscles and a sense of balance are achieved by performing various gymnastic exercises in the saddle. Therefore, it is very important to ride a well-drilled horse in the first lessons under the guidance of a trainer or an experienced instructor. This will allow you to develop self-confidence from the very beginning, and also eliminate the fear of falling and trying to convulsively cling to the mane or saddle.

Learning to enter the rhythm of movement

The main riding difficulties beginner riders face during the transition from walk to trot. At this time, trying to avoid falling, with strong shaking, the majority squeeze the sides of the horse with their legs, as a result of which they get chafing, muscle pain, and discomfort when riding.

The success of riding at accelerated gallops lies in the ability to catch the rhythm of movement due to the correct work of the legs and the lumbosacral region.

When changing the gait, the rider must relax his knees and, imagining the lower part of the legs as a shock absorber, begin to rise at the moment of tossing, linger and lower back into the saddle in time with the movement of the horse. In this case, the center of gravity must be shifted forward. When moving to a gallop, the body must be moved forward, the muscles of the lumbosacral region must be tightened, and the knees pressed against the saddle.

To avoid pain when moving to a faster ride, you need to adapt to the rhythm of the animal

Control

Sitting in the saddle for the first time, each rider must clearly understand and know how to control the horse and what commands exist. Commands for horses are given with the help of the rein, leg, body, and also the lumbosacral region. Many beginners, for ease of understanding the functions of each element, are told that the rein is the rudder and brake, and the leg is the gas. However, such an interpretation is very primitive, since with proper driving, the body and pelvic muscles are a kind of bridge that connects the actions of the rein and leg into single commands - messages. Consider all the horse controls in more detail.

A well-trained horse only responds to the right messages from the rider. Sharp movements of the reins, tugging or strong jerks with the legs cause discomfort, nervousness and disobedience in horses. Therefore, the rider must be well versed in commands and be able to correctly send messages.

In order for the horse to obey the rider, you need to give clear and correct commands.

Schenkel

Controls the back of the horse, turns, maintains balance and forward movement. You can’t hit the horse with your legs or tap your heels uncontrollably on the sides. To send, it is enough to firmly press the legs to the side. The main action of the leg is sending forward. To do this, the rider presses both legs close immediately behind the girth. The leg behind the girth at a distance of about 15-20 cm controls the movement of the hind legs during the turn. Also, this movement dictates or prohibits movement to the side.

The horse must be able to respond quickly to the slightest instructions from the rider. Otherwise, for poorly trained horses, as well as to strengthen the team, spurs and a whip are used as additional means of control. A whip for a horse is used in case of disobedience to a leg send. However, they cannot beat the animal, but only with a light slap on the croup or shoulder to draw attention to your team. Spurs are for the horse additional means sending legs, but they should not be used by inexperienced riders.

The correct position of the foot in the stirrup is a guarantee that the horse will correctly understand your command.

Reinforcement

The rein is necessary to stop and turn the horse and serves as the main means of control. In addition, it is he who is the most important connecting center between the rider and the horse. The rein is attached to the bits that are in the mouth of the animal, so the horse feels very well all its movements. Jerks, jerks and other unnecessary hand movements are unacceptable here. Therefore, with regard to commands, the basis is important rule: good ride are the soft hands of the rider. Hands and forearms should always be relaxed.

The reins should not sag, but also not pull the horse's mouth. Their correct position is such that the rider feels the movements of the horse's head well, but at the same time does not constrain them. The effect of the rein depends on the type of bridle and the arrangement of the reins. There are several types of them. For a beginner, the English style is considered the best, when the rein is taken into a fist and passed between the thumb and little finger. At the same time, the brushes are held vertically, that is, with the thumbs up.

When driving a horse with a rein, sudden movements are unacceptable

Commands and Promises

Learning how to ride properly necessarily includes knowledge of messages and certain commands. Let's consider in more detail.

• Forward command- we move the body forward, we strain the pelvis, we press the leg immediately behind the girth, we give up the reins.
• The “stop” command - we strain the muscles of the pelvis, clinging to the saddle, we feed the body back, calmly, without jerking, we pick up the occasion for ourselves.
• Turn to the left - the body is straight or in the direction of movement, we select the left rein, we give the right rein a little, the right leg presses the side immediately behind the girth.
• Turn to the right - the body is straight or in the direction of movement, we select the right rein, give the left one a little, the right leg presses the left side.
• The message “quickly” - we push the horse with shanks immediately after the girth with pushes, we move the body forward.
• Development on the spot- we select the rein in the direction of movement, we push the leg immediately behind the girth on the side of the direction of movement, we press the opposite leg at a distance of the palm from the girth.
• Movement "back"- we press the pelvis to the saddle, we take the body back, slowly and calmly, without jerking, we select the occasion for ourselves, the legs should work immediately behind the girth.

For competent control of the horse, learn all the commands

Conclusion

Today, almost every major city has stables or equestrian clubs. Therefore, anyone can learn how to learn to ride a horse by visiting special courses or riding lessons. It is advisable to immediately enroll in courses to experienced coach or an instructor to master the skill of the rider to the fullest. Having learned to maintain balance and balance, to control a horse, you can safely go on a horseback trip or for a pleasant ride on horseback through the nearest forest. A horse is a living cure for depression, and riding in the saddle is a great outdoor activity.

Correct fit

In many books it is written that the correct landing is the key to success. This statement is not without meaning. Many of the problems that a rider has with a horse, such as uneven pace, lack of momentum, lack of flexibility, nape tuck, arched back, are due to improper seating, poor contact with the horse, and poor coordination.

The horse is a reflection of its rider, so in this case, do not forget about folk wisdom - “There is nothing to kick on the mirror if the face is crooked”! If your horse is jogging, kicking on gains, not pushing with his hind legs, he is not balanced. Lack of balance is not a diagnosis, but an acquired quality, so pay attention to how you sit before you demand something from the horse.

In the picture you see the correct fit, which is shown to us by Mr. Carl Hester. To get a feel for how to properly sit in the saddle, try first pulling your knees up to the pommel and lowering yourself into the deepest part of the saddle, then lower your legs down to the sides of the horse. This exercise will initially accustom you to the feeling of the correct landing. To begin with, try to figure out for yourself which parts of your body should be in contact with the saddle and which should not. It is best to do this exercise when the horse is standing.

You should sit on both pelvic bones, but at the same time, without touching the tailbone of the saddle. With a proper seat, you should be touching the saddle with your two hipbones and your pubic bone. The main load will fall on the hip bones.

The thigh should be vertical to the saddle and be an extension of a straight line between your body and leg. Humpback riders make humpback horses. It has been noted by many veterinarians that the uneven distribution of muscles along the horse's spine is entirely dependent on rider seating. Remember that the horse senses the slightest inaccuracies in the rider's posture and reacts to them with appropriately incorrect movements.

The leg from hip to knee should be relaxed and close to the wing of the saddle. The inside of the knee should be pressed against the saddle. However, you should not cling to the saddle with your knees. Previously, it was believed that the rider should hold on primarily with his knees. This landing is bad because Bottom part the legs are not pressed against the side of the horse, and accordingly there is no constant control over the movement of the horse. There was also an opposite theory, according to which the rider's knee should not be pressed against the saddle, which leads to two problems at once. Firstly, the lower part of the leg goes too forward, and secondly, the work of the upper leg is almost impossible. The knee should be so close to the saddle that your lower leg from the knee is fixed at an angle and rests against the side of the horse.

Remember, if you strongly cling to the saddle with your knee, then you, as it were, squeeze yourself out of the saddle, as a result of which the shock absorption of the horse does not occur, and you simply fall out of the saddle. This error is common among beginner riders and is the reason why many cannot sit in the saddle at training trot and canter.

When you are eating at a trot or canter, try to think of your lower leg and pull it down with your heel at a slightly angled back. That is, for each pace of a trot or canter, work out with your heel and pull your leg as low as possible and in no case not forward, but vice versa, back. Imagine that you are kneeling in front of a wall - you should make approximately the same movements. The calf muscles should be tense, but not too much. Otherwise, the horse will not take your strokes on the sides as a signal to move forward. To send the horse correctly, the rider's heel must be lower than the toe. How many times can one observe how, when trying to send the horse forward, the heel goes up, and the rider simply scratches it on the side of the horse. The horse, on the other hand, does not respond to such actions, since with a raised heel, the force of the calf muscle weakens, and he perceives this more as a stroke. When the leg, slightly bent at the knee, is extended downward and the heel is lowered, the muscle tenses slightly and this is a more understandable signal for the horse.

Lesson 1 Psychological preparation or a little introspection

So, you have firmly decided to learn how to ride a horse. We will proceed from this goal of your riding lessons. Why you need it is another question. The recommendation of doctors, sports ambition, business necessity, love for horses - the reasons can be very diverse. But if you do not discard all unnecessary emotions that distract from achieving the result, you may fail. The author has met riders who have been riding for many years, but panic at the slightest disobedience of the horse.

Riding is a complex interaction between man and horse. Moreover, a person in this system should be a leader. Even if he does not know how to do anything, and the horse is a “professor”. In practice, it is often the other way around: a young, poorly trained horse can be a leader in relation to an insecure or inept rider. Self-confidence, combined with calm, not rude, but firm perseverance - this is the most important and necessary condition for handling a horse. If you are afraid of a horse, then it is better not to sit on it. Understand yourself. Maybe you just want to stroke, touch, feed the horse? If it calms you down, fine. This form of communication with a horse is also possible. Just do not think that this way you can “appease” the horse. This reinforcement (encouragement) is more for you than for him. A horse is not a dog and does not wag its tail from a piece of sugar or a carrot eaten.

Lesson 2. Horse. Why does he need it?

Many novice townspeople try to connect with a horse the way they would with a cat or dog. Gentle strokes, whispering caressing layers, treats. Older horses will immediately recognize beginners by these techniques and can even discourage them from manifestations of “tenderness”. Don't try to suck up to the horse, but don't be rude either. Be "first among equals". And the horse will allow you everything. Carefully observe the facial expressions of the horse. Its "face" is very expressive. Stretched neck, bared teeth, flattened ears express a threat. Remember that the horse sees both forward and backward. Approaching her, try to see her eyes, ears. Call her, no matter how. The sound of the voice is important. The main thing is not to be scared. Despite their great growth, horses, like all ungulates, are very susceptible to fear and panic. Hearing in a horse plays a greater role than vision. One of the most effective factors in communicating with a horse is the voice. If the horse's head is turned towards you, and the ears are upright, feel free to approach. Do not pull the hand with a bridle or a treat in advance. Just come up, pat the horse on the neck, say a few words. Why clap and not stroke? Humans and horses have different sensitivity thresholds, different skin thicknesses. When horses scratch each other's withers with their teeth, the efforts made at the same time could tear off the skin of a person.
Do not approach an unfamiliar horse either from the front or from behind. The front bites and the back kicks. The safest place is on the side. It is customary to communicate with riding horses, standing on the left side of the horse. On the left they saddle, on the left they lead, on the left they sit down, on the left they dismount. During cleaning, saddle all the time look at the head. Like ears, like eyes. Talk to the horse. Beginners often go to extremes. Either they begin to “lisp”, or they treat the horse like a gymnastic apparatus. Both of these can lead to conflicts. Try to be calm and confident. Nervousness can be transmitted to the horse. Most horses that have been “training” beginners for a long time do not get the slightest pleasure from this activity. And in terms of recognizing your intentions, such horses are great specialists. If you have a bag of crackers, carrots or sugar in your hands, you can still count on indulgence. But if you hold a bridle or a saddle, the relationship can change radically.
Perhaps the only breed of riding horses, in the breeding of which kindness was put in one of the first places, is the oldest Arabian breed of horses. Not without reason they enjoy the greatest love of children, representatives of the weaker sex all over the world. By nature, this best horse for family, for friendship, for walks. However, with all their unique grace and kindness, the “Arabs” are too gentle, expensive and excitable for mass riding.

Horses of other breeds may differ in obstinacy, viciousness - qualities that are not uncommon for Don horses. There are strict horses among the Budyonnovtsy, bred on the basis of the Donchaks. Horses of Western origin, which are now very actively used in big-time sports: the Trakehner breed, Holsteiners, Hanoverians are often distinguished by excessive “conceit”. Unlike an Arab, who will never step on your foot (extreme rarity), a “German” can easily pass “through” a person (a valuable quality for the mounted police).
The horse should not be afraid, but remember that each of them is a person necessary.

Lesson 3

First of all, you need to make sure that the horse is clean. You can not saddle an uncleaned horse. Cleaning is done with a brush and scraper. The brush is taken to the right (for right-handers), the comb - to the left. The brush is not strongly carried out against the wool, then with effort - along the wool (in the same place). The next movement is carried out with a brush along the teeth of the comber (brush cleaning). The scraper is knocked out after 10-15 cleanings. You can't touch a horse with a metal comb. Heavily contaminated areas are washed with water, rubbed with straw bundles. You can use rubber and plastic combs. Cleaning is done from the cleaner parts - the neck, the back - to the more polluted ones - the stomach, legs. Special attention give to areas in contact with the saddle - withers, back, stomach in the place where the girths are applied. The mane and tail are combed with special metal combs. The hooves are cleaned with a hook. It is especially important to do this after driving on small stones, gravel.

If the horse is in a stall and not tied, then you first need to put a bridle on it. If a horse expresses dissatisfaction during cleaning or saddle, he can be controlled by putting it on his hand. When the horse is on a leash, which is preferable for a saddle, the saddle is placed first.
So, what is a bridle and how to put it on. A simple racing bridle consists of a rein, a snaffle, and straps connected to each other, called by the location on the horse's head: cheek, forehead and occipital (angular). In the assembled bridle, the chin strap is threaded through the middle of the rein and fastened with a buckle.
So, take the bridle, put it on your left hand with a forehead strap to the elbow, unfasten the chin strap, thereby freeing the reins. Now you are ready to bridle. Open the stall. Call the horse and, making sure that he does not press his ears, does not click his teeth and does not turn his back to you, boldly enter. If he does any of the above, then do not try to appease him with a treat. The horse may take this as a reward for his actions. If you are in a strict voice, the command “Accept!” if you can’t calm down or turn the horse around - don’t take risks. Contact a trainer.

However, you are wonderful. The horse stands “facing” you, good-naturedly squints its eyes, and its ears stick out forward and up. Without extending your arms, calmly approach your left front foot and, as a sign of greeting, pat the horse on the neck. Without removing the entire bridle from the left hand, put the reins around the neck with both hands. Then take the horse's nose with your right hand, putting the palm of the horse's right hand on the snore, passing your hand under the muzzle, that is, as if hugging the horse. Fixation of the horse's head is necessary until the moment the ears are threaded between the head and neck straps. Shake the bridle into the palm of the left hand and, continuing to hold the head with the wrist and thumb of the right, intercept the bridle with the rest of the fingers (without twisting it) 10-15 cm above the snaffle. Now your left hand is free. Spread the snaffle on the open palm and bring it to the horse's lips (the right hand fixes the head). Thumb insert your left hand into the left corner of the horse's mouth and press on the toothless edge of the lower jaw. At this point, perfect coordination of both hands is required from you. The horse unclenches its teeth, you insert a snaffle straightened in the palm of your left hand between the teeth and at the same time pull the bridle up with your right hand. There are horses that do not like to unclench their teeth, give ears and endure other “bullying”. So try to do everything the first time. So, you put the snaffle in your mouth, immediately pulled up the bridle, thereby moving the snaffle to the corners of your mouth, and pull the bridle over your ears, passing them between the forehead and occipital (shoulder) straps. now it remains to fasten the chin strap in such a way that your fist crawls between it and the neck. Having let the horse's bangs out over the forehead strap, make sure that the reins and other straps are not twisted, and the snaffle lies snugly in the corners of the mouth, but without forming skin folds. That is, the bridle is not small and not large.
Let's move on to the seat. Saddles are different. We will consider the two most common types in horse riding: sports and drill. Without going into detail about the design of the saddle, let's say that it is necessary to distinguish between a sweatshirt, girths, putlishes with stirrups, front and back pommel. A combat saddle, compared to a sports saddle, has both advantages and disadvantages. It is more convenient to hold on to it, it is more functional for the horse, but the rider has a more fixed posture in it, it is not convenient for everyone to ride at the front trot (to make it easier), but it is easier to work out the correct fit in it.

After running a hand along the horse’s back and making sure that there are no abrasions, bumps, scuffs and dirt, we put a saddle cloth on the horse’s back so that it completely covers the withers. Any light, easy-to-wash fabric that has no seams, approximately 70 x 90 cm in size, can serve as a saddle pad. The denser the material, the better it lies on the saddle and does not fold into folds. Children's flannelette blankets are ideal for this purpose. On top of the saddle pad directly on the withers, gently place the pad, then the saddle and, holding the pad in front, roll the saddle from the withers to the back as if from a hill. The sweatshirt at the sports saddle should protrude 2-3 cm from under the front pommel.
If your saddle pad is made of light fabric, then it must be tucked between the sweatshirt and the saddle, having previously made a margin of 15-20 centimeters in front, otherwise it will “leave” under the saddle during the ride. If you have moved the saddle or saddle pad too far back towards the croup (back) of the horse, then they can no longer be moved back. You have to pick it up and put it down again. All movements on the back are made only from front to back, along the wool.

Putting the saddle on the back of the horse, we move to the right side, without letting go of the reins (if the horse is not tied, then all the time the saddle should be controlled by the reins), and lower the girths. First, the first girth is fastened, fastened closer to the horse's head. At the sports saddle, the girths overlap one another. You can, being on the right side, straighten the girths, put them together, press them against the horse's stomach with your left hand and return to the left side, where you will catch the ends with your right hand. You can crawl under the horse's neck only if you are completely sure of its good nature. It is better not to do this with stallions. The cinched girths should lie a hand's length from the front legs of the horse. Horses often do not tolerate girth tightening and may even object. Be careful. If the horse tries to bite you, hold his head with the right end of the rein. Gently insert the girth (strap sewn to the saddle) into the girth buckle. If you insert it into the middle slot, then the girth cannot be tightened well, and it will be even more difficult to unfasten it. When the girths are tight, you can hardly get two fingers between the horse's side and the girth. All. The horse is saddled.

Lesson 4. Movement with a horse. Landing and dismounting

Remember, once you start saddling a horse, you will not move away from it. Therefore, do everything in advance and take everything you need for the ride right away. It must be firmly grasped: a saddled horse should not be left alone. Bending down, she can "spring up", that is, pinch soft tissues in front of a tightly tightened girth, throw it off your head and break the reins, start wallowing and breaking the saddle. You can not tie the horse by the reins of the bridle. Most stable horses are not accustomed to this and can break it. If in an exceptional situation it is necessary to leave the horse saddled, then loosen the girth by 2-3 holes so that the saddle does not fall under the belly, and, wrapping the reins under the neck one by one, pass between them and fasten the chin strap. In the loom, a halter is put on the horse, and with its leash attached to the lower ring (chambur), the horse is shortly tied so that it cannot lie down.
Before taking the horse out of the stall or out of the barre, you need to remove the rein from the horse’s neck, take its end in your left hand, and hold it with your right hand directly under the lower jaw of the horse, in your fist, passing your index finger between the left and right reins. During the movement, try to be at the left shoulder of the horse. This is the safest and most comfortable place for both you and her.

When starting a movement, never twist the horse in place, as this can cause stretching, or, as the horsemen say, "weave the horse." Turns and turns are carried out only in motion. Therefore, if the horse is standing with his head in the direction opposite to the desired direction, first prod him where he is looking, and only then, on the go, start a smooth turn. Be especially careful in narrow aisles. Horses are taken out of the stalls by reining. To do this, you need to stand in front of the horse (facing it), take the reins at the snaffle itself, and, alternately pressing down and back with your left and right hands, force it to retreat either with your left or right foot. All this must be done slowly, without rudeness, but persistently. If the horse does not come out of the stall, it is useless to pull him by the reins. Maybe she's not completely afraid open door or an unfamiliar object in the aisle. If this is just stubbornness, then you need to ask the trainer to lead the horse himself or to fit him from behind. In order to speed up your movement along with the horse, you need to lightly pull on its reins, but without going forward, slightly smack your lips. If this does not help, then with the end of the whip, which is in the left hand, touch the side of the horse from behind your back. It is also necessary to trot with the horse while being at its left shoulder, trying to run "in step" with its front legs, taking the rein a little more freely. With stallions, movement on the reins is always more dangerous than on horseback. Therefore, the stallion must be mounted immediately, taking him out of the stable, and if the stallion is strict or plays, "studs", then sometimes in the stable, with the help of a trainer.
So, you took the horse out of the stable, moved a sufficient distance from other horses (4-5 m) so that they would not start to "show things off" and get ready for landing. This is a very important moment. Having inserted your left foot into the stirrup, you should rise on the stirrup with one push, pulling your hands over the mane, and throw your right leg over the horse's croup. This is in short. Now in detail.

Standing at the left shoulder of the horse, facing away from the movement, you should take the reins in your left hand, lying on the withers, and, holding the tension of both reins of the horse in place, firmly grasp the mane with the same left hand. If there is no mane, or it is very rare, then for the front pommel of the saddle. With the next movement, you turn the left stirrup with your right hand and insert your left foot into it. The stirrup must first be lowered to the length of the harness that you, while saddling, chose not for riding, but for landing, taking into account the length of your own and horse's legs. Here it is, the most crucial moment of landing. If the horse moves now, then you will have to jump after it on one leg. Therefore, putting your foot in the stirrup, you must quickly get into the saddle on the first attempt, no matter what. To do this, you need to grab the back bow of the saddle with your right hand, and, strongly pushing off with your right foot, helping yourself with both hands (left by the mane, without releasing the reins, right - by the back pommel), try to swing your right leg over the horse's croup. It is best to work out the saddle on a gymnastic horse. He does not run anywhere, does not spin in place. It can be raised to any height.
How are you not in the saddle yet? The attempt should be repeated. If the horse doesn't mind, it's over. At least try not to jump on a horse, but using a push right foot, and pulling up (secondarily) both hands, get into the position of support in the saddle with your hands. Then it will be easy to throw the right leg over the croup. Try not to cling to him with your boot. Croup in horses is an untouchable place, and manifestations of displeasure are possible.
However, the most convenient way I left the landings for last. You approach the saddled horse - the trainer holds it by the bridle, puts both hands on the saddle, bends the left leg at the knee, and the second trainer gently sits you down, lifting your left knee. Could be so.

Finding yourself in one way or another in the saddle, do not try to keep the horse in place. The stirrups can be adjusted on the go. Putlishcha should not be twisted, and the buckles are hidden under the wings of the saddle, otherwise you can erase your legs. The length of the trousers should be such that an obtuse angle forms between the lower leg and the thigh. Long stirrups contribute to a deeper and more correct landing. If you fall, a long stirrup will always fly off your foot. However, if at the trot the stirrups "run away" from under the foot, the trotters should be shortened by 1-2 holes. Approximate length of the path can be measured while saddling. The distance from the buckle to the stirrup should correspond to the length of your arm from armpit to wrist.
Dismounting is usually not difficult for beginners. But there are also opportunities for injury. This can happen if you start dismounting without taking one foot out of the stirrup and the horse continues to move. To prevent this from happening, take both feet out of the stirrups before dismounting. Then rest the palms of both hands on the front pommel, slightly tilt the body forward, and swing both legs back-up-left, make a jump to the left side. For working off the dismount, a gymnastic horse is very convenient. You can jump off and swing only the right leg over the croup, sliding down the saddle.
When you find yourself on the ground, the first thing to do is tighten the stirrups, securing them with one turn of the putliska, and loosen the girth holes by 2-3. Now you are ready to lead the horse to the stable or follow the instructions of the trainer.

Lesson 5. Physical preparation of the rider and his landing. How to fall off a horse

The main thing in mastering any motor skill is the achievement of looseness, freedom of movement. The same is true of horseback riding. If you are afraid of falling, clutching the saddle convulsively, leaning forward, clinging to the horse like a tick, you have only one way out - learn to fall. You have to be physically and mentally prepared for this. However, to physical training landing makes even more demands. This is especially true for women with overweight. The best arm exercise is pull-ups. If you shake up to pull yourself up at least 2-3 times on the crossbar or rings, then when landing on a horse, your hands will not let you down. Best Exercise for legs - jumping rope and squatting with a "pistol", that is, on one leg, stretching the other forward. If you can, without holding onto anything with your hands, do 5 “pistols” in a row on each leg, then everything is in order with your legs. In addition to strength, flexibility is also needed. It will be very useful to lean forward with your fingers touching the floor and swing your legs with your toes touching your fingers raised to shoulder height. However, when landing on a horse, you will have to swing your right foot even higher.
Now for the falls. Falling from a horse is not much different from falling from a fence or a tree. So if you do not have the relevant experience, you need to practice at least on the ground. Since a fall from a horse occurs most often in motion, we must remember school physical education lessons, namely somersaults. If you can, without losing orientation in space and time, make 2-3 quick forward rolls in a row, then you have a chance to learn how to fall from a horse. It is useful to remember that it is always better to fall on your feet, and not on your head. If you can’t get on your feet, then try to fall on your side, and not on your back. In this case, the hands should be pressed to the body, and the muscle is tense. If, in addition, the bent horses are pulled up to the stomach, then you are almost a rubber ball.
When falling from a horse, never drop the reins. It will serve as a shock absorber, and, most importantly, you will not miss the horse.
It is highly recommended to ask your trainer to dedicate at least one session to falls from a short horse. You can start on the spot, then try at the walk, and finally at the trot.
Be sure to learn not only to jump off, but also to fall. top scores can happen if the moment of the fall is chosen by the trainer himself, pulling you off the horse with a cord or a rope tied around your waist (whether it is necessary to hold on to the reins “until the last” in such training is decided by the trainer).

An important place in safety precautions is occupied by the rider's shoes, the position of the foot in the stirrup and the length of the putlisch. Boots should be with a smooth sole, the foot should be pushed into the stirrup only a third (and not all the way into the heel), and the shoes should correspond to the length of the rider's legs. Under these conditions, the foot will never get stuck in the stirrup.

Lesson 6

The most important thing in managing a horse is the will and desire of the rider. The author had to watch how persistent beginners, doing everything wrong, achieved desired results, that is, during one lesson they retrained the docile horse "for themselves."
Using automotive terminology, an approximate scheme for controlling a horse can be represented as follows: the reins are the steering wheel and brake, the leg (part of the leg from the foot to the knee, adjacent to the side of the horse) is the gas pedal. In practice, your whole body is involved in controlling the horse. The horse reacts to micro-movements of the arms, legs, body, seat. Therefore, before learning how to manage, you need to learn how to sit on a horse. Otherwise, you will only confuse her with the erratic commands that are inevitable when you move in the saddle.

When a man and a horse have known each other for a long time and others do not interfere in their relationship, then, like people, they can establish their own language, means of communication.
Different riding schools may have opposite principles of riding, and each trainer will teach you in his own way. However, there are generally accepted rules for both dressage of a young horse and for training a novice rider.

The rein, as you already know, is connected to the snaffle, that is, to the iron that is in the horse's mouth. By moving the reins, you can deliver quite painful sensations to the horse. This should never be forgotten. How to hold the rein? For us, it is quite suitable for analysis in an educational way. The occasion is passed into a fist between the little finger and ring finger and exits between the thumb. The fists are "suspended" over the withers of the horse. When turning, do not spread your arms to the sides. Try to perform all movements with a reason only with your hands. Remember that the turn is performed by both ends of the rein. One end pulls in the direction of the turn, the other presses on the neck and head in the same direction. As soon as the horse understands you and begins to move, whether turning or stopping, immediately release the action of the hands. When the horse has completed the movement you need, exercise, give him the reins completely and pat on the neck - this is praise.

It is impossible to talk about the work of the occasion in isolation from other means of control. A horse is always controlled by a rider, that is, a person who uses the whole complex of means.
Schenkel and Schluss. These terms refer to the inner surfaces of the legs: from the foot to the knee and above the knee, respectively.

The leg is used primarily to send the horse, that is, to start the movement, change its pace and direction. Leg movements can be very diverse: from light pressure on the sides of the horse, to vigorous tapping.
The Schluss plays a major role in your movements in the saddle - it is the main emphasis and should bear the main load both when riding a light trot and when landing in a field at a canter.
The movements and leanings of the body of an experienced rider are an important tool control, because in one way or another they upset the balance of the horse-man system.

Let's get down to business. The rein (both), the shankel (opposite ones are more active) and the body, which repeats the movements of the horse's spine, are involved in the turn at the same time. Also when stopping: pulling on both reins is accompanied by an increase in the action of both legs, which is necessary for the correct bringing and setting of the hind legs.

At the beginning of the movement, it is necessary to pick up the reins, pull them slightly (the command “on the rein!”) To feel light contact with the horse’s mouth, and then send the horse with shanks.
The complexity of driving a horse compared to driving a car lies in the fact that in almost all situations almost all controls are involved, but in different quantities and in different sequences. It is on these nuances that the success of management depends. One should never howl that a horse can learn to "control" a rider a little earlier than the rider can. Then there will be a fight.
Whip and spurs. The whip is used as a means of enhancing the action of the leg, and in some cases as a means of punishment in case of disobedience of the horse. The blow with the whip should be sensitive to the horse, and it should come from almost the same place where the leg works. It is impossible to hit on the croup (on the back).
Spurs are used only by experienced athletes to enhance leg action. Due to the fact that beginner riders cannot always control the actions of their legs and may inadvertently spur the horse, the use of spurs is not recommended for them. It is forbidden to use spurs with a sharp "burdock", which can injure the horse's skin. It should be noted that any punishment must follow immediately (almost simultaneously) after the disobedience of the horse. A little late - and it loses its meaning, because the horse will not connect the punishment with the deed. For senseless beating, the athlete is expelled from the competition, qualifying this as "cruel treatment of a horse."

Lesson 7 Walking

The essence of proper seating is not to interfere with the movement of the horse. In this case, the rider must have a free posture necessary for effective control of the horse. Some beginners have no problems with the position and movement of the horse, while others take a long time to adapt. It all depends on your abilities and hard work. Learning is easier for people who have a good sense of balance. They say about such people that they are on the "balance sheet". Others are forced to stay on the horse only with the strength of their legs, and even helping themselves with their hands.

With a proper seat, your weight is distributed between your seat and thighs (in the saddle) and feet (in the stirrups). Depending on the gait, the speed of movement and the task being performed, the emphasis can be redistributed.

The loin should be slightly arched, the body should be perpendicular to the ground when moving in steps, the shoulders should be moderately deployed, the gaze should be directed forward in the direction of the horse's movement. The arms are half-bent, the hands with the reins are suspended above the horse's neck immediately behind the front pommel.
You feel the movement of the horse as a slight sway back and forth and absorb it with movements of the lower back. Regardless of the features of your figure, the correct fit will always look beautiful and relaxed. But it won't come right away! In the saddle you have to "sit down". It is useful to observe yourself in a mirror or captured on film or videotape.

Lesson 8

Correctly sitting on a stationary or even walking horse is available to everyone. But the first stage in learning to ride can be considered passed when you learn how to sit at a trot correctly.
When moving at a trot, the horse alternately jumps from one diagonal pair of legs to another. At the same time, you are incredibly shaken. The strength of the pushes depends on the anatomical features of the horse and the speed of movement. It is impossible to completely get rid of this shaking, but it is quite possible to alleviate your fate by at least half.

The horse runs rhythmically. The shocks follow one after the other in a certain rhythm. Try to trace it and, resting inside hips in the saddle and feet in the stirrups, stand up in the saddle in such a way that every second push is skipped, being in a "suspended state". This is called "lightening" or trotting at a lighter trot. Sat down. If at the same time you can use the previous push as an impulse to get up, and when landing, do not plop down, but sit down gently, slowing yourself down, resting your hips on the saddle, then consider that you have already got rid of shaking by more than half. That is, they learned to move at a light trot.

In the process of this training, you can use the emphasis with your hands on the saddle. Don't try to use the reins as a means of control. You will only needlessly pull the horse. Until you have learned to trot confidently, you do not need a rein at all. Therefore, it is best to learn in a closed arena, where the horses move, obeying the commands of the trainer. And only when, moving at a light trot, you can keep your hands on your belt, to the sides or up, while maintaining the correct fit, you can trust the reins (you can learn to control the reins at a walk earlier).
It is better to ride at a training trot, having learned to lighten up. Riding at the training trot is a jolt without skipping. You are just trying to "squeeze" into the saddle more tightly so that you are not knocked out. This is achieved most easily by the tension of the calf muscles and the body slightly tilted back. With your legs you tightly hug the sides of the horse, and with your soft lower back you hold back the shocks knocking you out of the saddle.
If you have learned to relieve yourself without using stirrups, but only due to the strength of your legs and the pushing impulse, and continue this activity for at least 5 minutes in a row, then feel free to consider that you have passed the second stage of training.

Lesson 9

So, if you ride at a light trot without stirrups for 5 minutes and at the same time are still able to control the horse, then you have probably already experienced the pleasure of galloping. It is easier to sit at a canter than at a trot. The shocks are much less frequent and smoother, the sensations are closer to swinging on a swing, only the earth rushes in one direction - backwards.

The conditional division of speed when galloping is as follows: arena and field. Accordingly, landing at a canter is not much different from landing at a training trot. The body is slightly tilted back, the legs tightly wrap around the sides of the horse, the soft loin absorbs shocks. The task is to sit in the saddle "like a glove", otherwise scuffs can form both on you and on the horse. Field landing is used when jumping, overcoming obstacles, during field driving. When landing in the field, you stand up on the stirrups (putlisches are shortened by 1-2 holes) and the main emphasis falls on the sluss. The seat does not touch the saddle, the lower back is slightly bent, the shoulders are straightened, it is permissible to rest with the hands on the neck or hold on to the mane.
The main mistakes in field landing are as follows. The rider stands very high in the stirrups. In this case, the center of gravity moves up, the landing strength decreases. If the horse shirks sideways, the rider will continue without him.

The rider's legs go forward or backward. Both lead to a deterioration in balance and, as a result, contact with the horse and the effectiveness of management deteriorate. The leg should lie just behind the girth, and the leg should be in the stirrup with the widest part of the foot.
The rider flops in the saddle at every gallop. The seat must not touch the saddle. You can stuff a horse's back, and something for yourself.

The stirrups should be of such length that they do not "run away" from under the foot, but not to stand too high on them. Your weight should be evenly distributed on the sluss and feet. The well-known rule in mountaineering: three points of support - is also applicable here: a sluss (inner surface of the thighs) and two stirrups. Hands are free to control. The rein is slightly taut. With vigorous movements of the head and neck of the horse, the arms follow them, while the body remains in place.

What does it take to get a horse into a gallop? Some village horse can be trained to gallop from a whistle, a whoop, or even a yank on the reins. The same can be taught to any other horse. However, the generally accepted rules are as follows. The horse is brought into a state of compressed spring, which is called "collection". To assemble a horse, it is necessary to achieve the convergence of all four legs, if not at one point, then close enough. This is achieved both by the rein - the horse bends the neck and reduces the extension of the front legs, and by the leg - the horse brings the hind legs under him.

Depending on which leg you lift the horse into a gallop, the head is given a left or right decision - a position in which you see the edge of one or the other eye. In the arena, the issue of the leg is solved simply. When driving to the left - gallop from the left foot, when driving to the right - from the right. We will not go into the mechanics of horse movement. This topic is covered in detail in all serious manuals. However, even beginners should be aware that if your horse is cantering "lying", i.e. counter-cantering (when riding to the left, for example, cantering on the right foot), then you can both fall on the turn. Determining which leg a horse is galloping from is not very difficult. The front leg, which descends to the ground further, slightly ahead, is the leg with which the horse gallops.
So, we go at a light trot. The command is given: "Change, gallop march!" What are we doing?

First, we sit in the saddle and stop lightening up. Secondly, we pick up a shorter rein, forcing the horse to "lower its nose" and making a decision (out of the corner of the eye). Thirdly, (but simultaneously with "secondly"!) we strengthen the action of both legs (the opposite direction of the canter is more active) in combination with a slight and mild weakening of the reins, and thereby send the horse forward. Did not work out? Try again to do all the same when exiting the turn, and add to the action of the opposite leg light blow whip. Just don't try to speed up the horse.

Many trainers prohibit swinging the body when sending into a canter. Yes this is correct. Management, and even more so the message, should be imperceptible from the outside. The horse does everything by itself. However, at a gallop, the rider always shakes his body, at least a little, but this action can be a prearranged signal for an old rolling nag, which, sometimes, you cannot convince even with a whip.
A simple pull on the reins can be enough to bring a calm horse from a canter to a trot. If the task is not solved, then, throwing the body back and resting on the stirrups, pull the reins more energetically without lifting your arms up (a common mistake). If the horse drags, “biting the bit”, then you should try to jerk the rein sharply enough from left to right and vice versa. This is a very painful technique for the horse's mouth, which must realize who is the boss here. If you were dragged away by a horse in the field, then the only way to stop it is to wrap it in a circle, gradually reducing its diameter. For more details, see lesson 12 "The horse is dragging."
However, let's hope that you, as a beginner rider, will get calm, good-natured and well-trained horses.

Lesson 10

So, all horses are individuals. Horses of different breeds differ not only in appearance, but, often, in typical features character. Stable-raised horses are usually calm and trusting of humans when treated well. On the contrary, horses raised in a herd are vicious, shy, and can have all the habits of a wild animal. A horse lover who is only familiar with "stable" animals may be unpleasantly surprised by the completely unusual behavior of any local breeds used in horseback riding. In the seventies, the author happened to get acquainted with feral horses in the Crimean mountain pasture. It was a small herd of completely wild animals, which could not be approached closer than 100-150 meters. The mowing stallion assumed threatening poses, dug the ground with his hoof, bared his teeth, and made sounds that looked little like neighing. It was more like a growl. Finally, his throws in my direction forced a prudent retreat.

Suppose that in an unfamiliar area you met horses. Do not rush to approach them. If there is a shepherd (horseman) with the herd, then talk to him, ask permission. An unfamiliar horse should be approached from the side, not having any objects in hand, but having prepared a piece of bread. Do not try to climb on an unbridled horse - this can end sadly. Pay close attention to the horse's ears and movements. Some animals can instantly turn around and strike. And stallions tend to beat with their front legs. Colts are dangerous, and even fillies, at the age of one and a half years, especially if they are not hackneyed, not alerted (not accustomed to a halter, bridle). Such "teenagers" can offer you a game consisting mainly of jumping and kicking.

So you sat on an unfamiliar horse. There is nothing shameful if you first take an interest in her character, habits, whims. Be attentive and collected. Sitting on a horse, immediately begin to move in a step. It was necessary to adjust the ammunition in advance. Do not loosen the reins at the walk, lead the horse in shanks. Watch her reactions. A young horse can sharply shy away from a sparrow that has taken off, and an old one can do the same for the company, or playing a fright. With light leg pressure, try to speed up the step, then slow it down with the rein. Fix your attention on how willingly the horse responds to your commands. The main task of establishing contact is to find out if the horse knows the commands that you own and is going to obey them. Requiring something from new horse, always start with the weakest signal - be it leg or rein action.

The stimulus that was normal for one horse can be almost stressful for another. Briefly, you can paint an acquaintance with a horse like this:
1. Overcoming your own shyness. Whatever you do with your horse, try to be calm, confident, and friendly.
2. Establishing contact on the ground during cleaning, saddle, by observing facial expressions, reactions to your actions (no sudden movements). Talk to an unfamiliar horse all the time. This will help you calm down both yourself and her.
3. Landing and finding out the handling on the move. If in 10 minutes of step work you have not reached an understanding, consider whether it is worth riding this horse in the field. Contact a trainer.

Lesson 11

There can be many reasons:
1. The horse refuses to leave other horses.
2. The horse is afraid of a real or imaginary obstacle.
3. The horse simply refuses to obey your commands. She has a different agenda (making love, eating, returning to the stable).

The list goes on, but let's move on to the rider's response. If your sending possibilities (shankel, whip) have already been exhausted, and it is necessary to move forward, but you must try to outwit the horse. It is not always possible to do this. So, for example, it may be simply impossible to ride a young horse away from a group. The only way out is to change the horse or leave together, standing behind the tail of an obedient horse. The same technique often helps in overcoming obstacles. You need to know which horse in the group is the most experienced and let it go first.
Sometimes it is necessary to dismount and lead the horse on the bit. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that the stallions are still more obedient "from above", and if the horse refuses to go on the reins and stands on the "candle" (on its hind legs), it can pull out the reins and run away.

It happens that it’s not terrible, but you just need to consider a new obstacle, smell it, make sure that it doesn’t jump up and bite. Horses are often frightened by objects that are too contrasting: black in the snow, white in the grass. They are afraid of wires, hoses, especially if they are being dragged (a snake!?). When a horse is stuck with its nose into an obstacle and is not allowed to go back or sideways, it may get bored and go forward. it is necessary in each specific case to proceed from the goal. If you need to go faster, then you can go around the obstacle. If the task is to teach a young horse not to be afraid, then it is better to follow the old one. When using a whip message, you need to know that this tool is more effective if another person is urging your horse on from behind. And even more effective if it is done by two people standing with different parties and not letting the horse go sideways. Finally, when loading horses into a wagon or car, it is used as an exception (there is a risk of crippling the animal) by putting on an opaque material on the head. The horse walks blindly, trusting the man.

Suppose that a young horse, calmly trotting, suddenly slowed down, began to shake its head, tossing its back. Your horse decided to indulge, play, she is bored of jogging along the path. It would have been more fun to get rid of the rider and swear to your heart's content. We must act quickly and decisively. The art of training is that the animal is just about to commit an undesirable action, and you are already stopping it. So, your answer is an immediate and sharp message. Shenkel, whip, voice - all means are good. If the horse is "stagnant" in the stable and playing, do not forcibly keep him at a walk or trot. Make a circle - another canter, and with a message, so that the horse feels that you remain the master of the situation. The main thing is not to panic in disobedience, and the best way to achieve obedience is to force the horse forward by any means.
The horse under the rider can be likened to a spring. The degree of its compression, regardless of the gait, is regulated by the leg (back of the spring) and the rein (front of the spring). And only the constant interaction of leg and rein creates that dynamic balance of the horse, that readiness to rush forward or stop, which is achieved by fine coordination of these basic controls.

Lesson 12

First and foremost, don't panic. The second is to understand the reason. The horse can suffer from fright, from excess energy, from overexcitation. No need to lean forward, lift up your hands with a reason. Tilt your body back, rest against the stirrups, pull on the reins and, calming the horse with your voice, start wrapping it in a circle. Preferably in the direction from which leg she gallops. If the horse doesn't slow down, try jerking the reins sharply from left to right or from right to left. Never jump off the horse that dragged you! At high speed, you can be seriously injured. In almost all cases, if the horse does not slow down on the straight, it can be turned into a volt (per circle) and, gradually reducing its diameter, is forced to slow down. Even if it means taking one rein and pulling it with both hands (only if you can't get the horse to change pace or direction). When changing the direction of movement, it is desirable to maintain orientation on the ground and make sure that there are no obstacles that would be undesirable to meet at a fast gait (ditches, trees, etc.)
However, the best treatment is prevention. Sitting on a horse, especially on an unfamiliar one, one cannot completely relax for a second. A sudden jumping dog can give you such an acceleration, especially with a loose rein, that parting with the saddle will happen in hundredths of a second.
It often happens that one horse, frightened by a trifle, can gallop the whole group - horses have a very strong herd feeling. So everyone should be careful at all times, especially the head rider.

Many horses, both young and old, who have participated in races, begin to "wind up" at a gallop, trying to get around others. It is necessary to anticipate the jump to agility and keep your horse from it. Try with all your might to maintain your position in the shift and the necessary distance to the horse galloping in front, as it may “not tolerate” that it is bypassed and rush itself or hit with its back if it is “fitted on its tail”. If you feel unable to control the pace and distance, lose contact with the horse, then yell "stop" and turn the horse around. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that by stopping a young horse on a volt, you will not keep it from a swift chase if the group galloped ahead.
In summary, we can say that contact with an energetic horse that has to be restrained is a constant vigilance and anticipation of his undesirable actions. And the main means, oddly enough, the message.

Lesson 13

In this section, we will discuss only those forms of horse behavior that can prevent a novice rider from enjoying riding.

In the stable

We have already considered some bad habits in previous lessons. This is the unwillingness of the horse to let a person into the stall, clean, saddle. Not in all cases, an inexperienced beginner should strive to do everything himself. If the horse in response to your actions presses his ears, bares his teeth or turns his back, then it is better not to risk it, but contact the trainer.

Suppose a horse in a stall stands calmly, but when he tries to put on a bridle, he lifts his head high. This horse was most likely spoiled by giving treats before the bridling, although there may be other reasons (soreness of the mouth or ears, etc.). Talk to her calmly, pat your right hand on the neck (hide the left with the bridle behind your back). Then hug her head with your right hand, put your palm on the snoring (above the nostrils) and grabbing the reins with the fingers of your left hand - let the headband fall down - try to put only the reins on your head. Did not work out? No problem. Unfasten the reins and, making sure that the headband does not twist, wind it from below through the neck, at least at the very withers. Then fasten. In most cases, with the occasion thrown over, the headband is put on without much difficulty.

If the horse does not open his teeth, then finger pressure on the toothless edge of the lower jaw almost always helps.
Doesn't give ears? There may be a small bridle. One way or another, it is better to dissolve the cheek strap into several holes, and after threading the ears, tighten it again.

In all cases, don't make the irreparable mistake - don't feed the horse if you don't succeed. That's when you put everything on and buttoned up and the horse does not get angry, does not "shake" his ears - then you can treat him.

The horse painfully reacts - shies away, moves away, shudders, crouches - to lowering the saddle onto its back. First of all, you need to make sure that there are no abrasions, bumps, abrasions on the back, then the cleanliness of the sweatshirt, saddle cloth (maybe something is stabbing). If everything is in order with the back and saddle, and the horse still objects, which was not the case before, contact the trainer, the reason may be in the disease (myositis, etc.)

Girth tightening is not liked by many horses. Don't pull hard right away. First, make sure that there is no tumor, injury or abrasion on the abdomen. If there is something, let the coach look. You may need to put a pad under the girths.

Here the horse is saddled, but does not come out of the stall. The door is wide open, there are no foreign objects in the passage, there is nothing to be afraid of, but it doesn’t go. If not sick, then stubborn. Doesn't want to work. It is useless to drag for a reason. Stand at your left shoulder, hold the reins removed from your neck with your right hand, lightly touch the horse's side with a whip with your left hand from behind your back, and smack your lips. Be careful! If the whip goes rough and the horse rushes through the door, the two of you might feel cramped. What still doesn't work? Then - for the coach.
Be careful when leading your horse down the aisle. Horses, like people, can have very difficult relationships with each other. A mare who has recently had a foal can be aggressive towards other horses. If you walk past her stall, then she can scare the led horse, which will rush or shied away. A stallion will not calmly pass by a mare in the hunt, past his enemy - another stallion.

outside the stable

1. The horse does not allow you to sit on yourself.
Most often, this is not opposition to a person, but an unwillingness to stand still, especially if you dig for a long time. The length of the stirrups should be adjusted while still in the stall, and the landing should be done without delay: the pulled up left stirrup was pulled off, the left hand with a rein on the withers, the left foot in the stirrup, the right one - a push, and you are in the saddle. The second stirrup can be lowered while walking, as well as checking the girths from above. All this, of course, provided that you have confidence in yourself and in the horse.

If the horse does not just spin, but deliberately moves sideways at the moment when you try to put your foot in the stirrup, although both ends of the reins are sufficiently taut, this is already a bad habit. Have someone take the reins and trim the horse while you sit down. Try not to dismount such a horse in the field.

As soon as you are in the saddle, the interaction with the horse enters a new phase. The contact has increased, the forms of communication have changed, however, except for the voice impact. Of the bad habits of old rolling horses, those associated with the complete disregard of the rider are most typical. Such a horse can run to sort things out with "colleagues" or lie down in the first puddle, or simply refuse to move. If she is not explained from the very first seconds who is the boss here, then later it will be more difficult to do it, there will be a struggle of characters.

2. The horse does not react to the leg, does not go forward.
If you have not tightened the reins, but you must use the whip. If the horse in response to the whip starts to goat, that is, kick back, throw back, provided that the whip does not affect the croup, but along the ribs, immediately behind the leg, then they simply decided to mock you. Such horses cannot be given to beginners. Demand a replacement horse or a refund. In general, when the horse is "goaty", it is better to stand up in the stirrups so as not to be thrown around the neck, and by all means (voice, leg, whip) try to move it forward. If the horse "glows", that is, rears up (on its hind legs), you need to give up the reins, grab the mane and again push it forward. It must be clear to yourself that your influence on the horse should be decisive, you are the master of the situation. Your hand is giving and punishing. If you follow the desires of your four-legged partner, he wants to go there, he wants to stand, etc. - You will not achieve success in riding.

3. The horse shakes or shakes its head while walking.
There may be several reasons. The bridle is too small or too tight. You pull too tight on the reins, and the horse is used to a looser rein. If control of the reins is maintained, and the horse stops shaking his head, then the assumption is correct. Insects pester the horse. The horse just wants to "get rid" of your impact on his mouth, perhaps something hurts him. In all cases, you must be careful. With a sharp shake of the head, especially during a field landing at a gallop, the horse can hit you in the face with the back of the head. With an ingrained habit of waving their heads, martingales are put on horses - a device that limits the rise of the head. In case of soreness or excessive sensitivity of the mouth, a softer snaffle is used, up to a special rubber one. In some cases, head shaking is a kind of test for the rider. If he does not react, jumping, "goat" may follow. Therefore, it is better to immediately understand the reason and try to stop shaking your head. For this, a change in gait, the direction of movement, a sharp message and the most severe and rude reception - a sharp effect of the snaffle on lower jaw. In general, jerking the rein (snaffle) cannot be recommended as a form of control. This is a very rough and strong effect on the horse and is used only as a punishment. It can only be justified if the rider is physically unable to handle the horse.

4. The horse lies down under the rider.
This indicates a complete lack of contact. Usually, before lying down, the horse tilts his head down, sniffing, and begins to "dig" with his front foot. You should immediately raise your head with the reins and send the horse forward sharply.

5. The horse refuses to turn in the right direction.
For example, you pick up the left rein, and the horse, turning his head to the left, continues to move in the same direction. With both reins and the outer leg, turn the horse in the direction in which it seeks, but continue to move in a circle, and, having reached the direction you need, sharply send it. If the horse practically does not react to the rein, then as an exceptional measure it can be recommended (for the weaker sex) to pull on one rein with both hands (risk of damaging the horse's mouth, tearing the bridle, pulling the snaffle out of the mouth).

It must be remembered that physically the horse is stronger, and it must not be overcome, but outwitted. Therefore, for "creative variants" of disobedience, one must always find no less creative methods for correcting them.

6. The horse reins without command.
That is, when given a reason, it backs away. If this is not a fear of an obstacle, but an ingrained habit, then it is very unpleasant to fight it? The rein should not be loosened, the horse should be tried to turn sideways or in the direction of reining and with a leg, voice, whip to move forward.

7. The horse rushes towards the stable.
The same as in the case when the horse "drags". Wrap on a volt and translate into a step. Moreover, when you have achieved a transition to a step, immediately give a reason - this is praise. The rider in the saddle has few means of encouragement - stroking (clapping), voice and rein. But use or need to be very precise. A reward that is “late” by two seconds may already be misunderstood by the horse.

8. The horse constantly neighs.
This is more common in stallions. Neighing at the sight of other horses, when moving away from the stable or when approaching it, is a normal reaction of a stallion guarding his herd and his territory. Neighing does not need to be frightened, this is not connected with any bad intentions regarding the rider. Horses for the most part neigh when they meet, lost, the mare calls the lagging behind foal. In short, this is a natural voice reaction.

9. The horse fights with other horses.
Most often, antipathy in horses, as well as sympathy, is quite stable. The coach, when composing the group, usually takes this into account. But if you happen to ride an aggressive horse, try to keep your distance both in front and behind, be especially attentive to horse facial expressions. When mounting and dismounting, do not get close to other horses. Remember that when hoof strikes, the legs of the riders suffer the most, because the horse in a fight exposes its sides with strong ribs to the blow, turning its head away.

10. On a campaign and at a halt.
When returning to the stable or at a halt, you need to know some typical horse habits that can spoil the impression of a walk. After dismounting a rider, many horses tend to start itching, especially in places where they have been rubbed by a bridle or saddle. At the same time, if the bridle is not yet removed, and the horse itches about you, the buckles can tear the clothes or scratch them badly. Often the horse wants to fall out. At the same time, it can ruin an unremoved saddle or luggage, and just get very dirty.

A hot horse should never be allowed to drink or eat oats. Only hay or grass. When tying horses, care must be taken that they do not get tangled in too long tethers, they cannot trample on ammunition or luggage. In the heat, you need to choose a place for a halt in the breeze so that the bloodsuckers do not really pester the horses. In the cold, you can’t remove the saddle from a hot horse so as not to catch a cold on her back, but the girth must always be loosened immediately when dismounting, so that when bending over, the horse does not buckle.

Lesson 14

Jumping, or overcoming obstacles in equestrian sports, is a topic that cannot be covered in one lesson. From the available literature in Russian, the author considers it possible to offer those interested only one translated book by D.M. Dillon "Jumping in equestrian sport", M., FIS, 1971, consisting mainly of photographs.

In horseback riding, during field riding, riders often face the need to overcome certain obstacles. When riding collectively in a shift (group), the ability to overcome obstacles is largely determined by its complexity and the experience of the coach (head), rather than the skill of the group members, since an experienced horse will take it out on its own in a difficult situation. Ditches, fords, bridges, logs, gates, narrow passages, steep ascents and descents - different types obstacles require different equipment overcoming. So, for example, the landing of an athlete when passing dead (firmly fixed) obstacles at a cross-country distance is significantly different from landing when jumping on a show jumping field over obstacles that fall when touched. The main task of the rider when overcoming any obstacles is to maintain the balance of the man-horse system, that is, not to interfere with it with his actions, while maintaining control.

When jumping, the horse, abruptly pushing off, as if flies out from under the rider, who must, an instant before repulsion, move the body forward. During the flight, the horse stretches its neck, the higher and further the jump, the stronger.

The rider must bring his hands forward appropriately, keeping contact with the horse's mouth, but without tightening the reins. For a beginner, the best way out is to stand up in the stirrups and grab the mane along with the reins. Thus, you will get an additional point of support - the neck, you will be able to better control your balance and not interfere with the horse.

When galloping in a field landing, overcoming small obstacles is a lying log, a small groove is usually perceived simply as an increased pace (jump). However, it must be borne in mind that a young horse, frightened, can make a refusal (sharp stop), run over an obstacle, or perform a powerful jump that does not correspond to the size of the obstacle. Therefore, overcoming even minor obstacles, one must be attentive and collected. A stumbled horse needs support from the reins, without which both of you can fall.

When overcoming water obstacles, one must know that a ford is always better than an unreliable, rotten bridge. Small bridges are built for human weight and can collapse under a horse's foot. If the horse loses its balance in the water, gets stuck, starts swimming, it is necessary to jump off in time, continuing to hold the rein and mane. If you do not know how to swim, grab at least the tail - the horse will pull you ashore.

Many horses do not like to go through narrow places, gates, etc. It happens that the horse does not go, but after a sharp message it rushes forward. In this case, the saddle, luggage or knee of the rider may get stuck.

Steep ascents and descents can only be ventured if you are sure that your hooves have sufficient grip on the ground. So, for example, wet clay or a grassy slope after rain, even for a shod horse, can be insurmountable with the appropriate steepness. When descending, the rider should sit slightly leaning back, unloading the front legs of the horse, in constant readiness to support the horse with the reins. But on climbs, the rider rises in the stirrups, holding on to the mane and releasing the horse's hind legs from the load.

Doubtful places, where the horse can catch on the wire or get hurt on sharp objects that are invisible in the grass or in the snow, are best dismounted. Your horse's legs are more important than yours.

When passing difficult sections of the route, not every horse can be completely trusted. Among the half-breed and local breeds of horses, there are often animals that, being very independent, will always choose The best way overcoming a difficult area. However, most horses of European breeds of stable breeding are accustomed to completely and completely rely on a person. On such a horse, it doesn’t cost anything to fall into a hole, cut yourself on a wire, etc. Be responsible for your four-legged friends.

Lesson 15

If we proceed from the fact that each horse is an individual, and a person learns all his life, then you can improve in riding endlessly. Any unfamiliar horse can reveal something new to you. So the first tip is this. No matter how you become attached to any particular horse, try to ride different horses.

Professional equestrians like to repeat: they don’t ride horses, horses work. This means that the horse receives some training and acquires new skills in the same way as the rider. If you really aspire to become a good rider, then here is the second piece of advice. Don't ride. All your communication with the horse, starting with cleaning and saddling, should be a creative dialogue. While riding, listen to the horse, watch his reactions in response to your commands. Try to achieve the most complete understanding. Experiment, be always on the lookout, only then you will get real satisfaction from riding and even on horses of average ability you will be able to work wonders.
If you decide to engage in equestrian sports, then soberly assess your age and physical capabilities. Equestrian sport is one of the most expensive sports. The selection is very tough. Besides, big sport in pursuit of the result, it often cripples not only physical, but also mental health, the psyche. Most of the equestrians I know, both athletes and horseback riding enthusiasts, experience the greatest pleasure when they manage to simply walk on a horse in the forest.
The rental of riding horses in cities and suburban areas is increasing every year. Opportunities for "equestrian physical education" are growing. In addition to the classic equestrian sports: show jumping, dressage, triathlon, there are a lot of national equestrian games, many of which are quite accessible to those who know how to ride. And you can organize such competitions at any stable - there would be a desire.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE RIDING A HORSE
We have a lot of different breeds of horses in our country, which differ from each other in appearance and temperament. Any breed of horse is suitable for learning to ride, but among them there should not be strict (evil) and stupid horses.
The strongest, fastest and beautiful horses horses are now considered thoroughbred riding breeds. Horses of our domestic Budyonnovsky breed are close to them. We have many wonderful breeds of horses - Trakenen, Akhal-Teke, Arabian, Kabardian, Bashkir, Karabair, etc. Horses differ from one another not only in breed, but also in signs and nicknames. The most basic sign is the suit, that is, the color of the horse's coat. The main colors of horses are ..: red, bay, black, gray, karak, buckskin, nightingale.

The RED SUIT is divided into golden red, light red and dark red. In the red suit, the color of the hair of the body, mane and tail is red.

BAY COLOR is divided into bay and dark bay. In the bay suit, the hair color of the body is brown, and the mane and tail are black.

The CROW COLOR has an even black color as the hair of the body, as well as the mane and tail.

GRAY COLOR is divided into light gray, dappled gray and dark gray. In the gray suit, all hair is white with a slight admixture of black hair both on the body and in the mane and tail.

KARAK SUIT - it is almost black, but with brown tan marks on the head (near the nose) and in the groins.

The BULL COLOR has golden body hair and black tail and mane hair, with a black thong on the back.

The NALING COLOR has a golden color of the hair of the body and white hair of the tail and mane.

The roan suit is characterized by the admixture of more or less white hair to the main suits. They are called so: red-roan, hyedo-roan, crow-roan.

The PIEGO COLOR is subdivided in the same way and is characterized by large white spots over the main red or other suit.

Rarely there are chubarye (speckled), etc.

Each rider must know all the suits well, be able to correctly identify and name them.
In addition to their suit, horses are also distinguished by such signs as whiteness on the legs, a white blaze on the nose or a star in the forehead. In the passport or breeding certificate of each horse, in addition to the year of birth and origin, the color and all other signs must be indicated. Each rider also needs to know the names of the individual parts of the horse's body.
On fig. 1 shows a horse and shows all the main parts of its body. Carefully figure out where the forehead, occiput, withers, back, shoulder, croup, elbow, carpal joint, metacarpus, puto, lower back, thigh, knee, shin, hock, metatarsus are located; All these names should be well remembered.
On fig. 2 shows the arrangement of the horse's mouth. As you can see, the horse's teeth do not grow in a row, but with a gap called the toothless edge of the jaw. In front are the teeth that capture food, then the toothless edge of the jaw, and then the teeth that chew food. Each rider needs to know the structure of the horse's mouth, because without this he will not be able to correctly adjust the length of the bridle, the bit of which should lie on the toothless edge of the horse's jaw.
In order to learn how to ride properly, you need to study the horse, get acquainted with its behavior, care for it, as well as master all the care and equipment necessary for riding. You need to know well what parts the bridle and saddle consist of, be able to keep them in order, know the purpose of their individual parts and be able to correctly fit any horse.
Knowing how to properly fit the equipment to the horse is a very important matter that requires a lot of attention, since improper fitting leads to traumatic injuries, and the horse can be out of action for a long time.
In order to learn to ride well, it is important to love the horse, to study its habits well, not to be afraid of it.
To ride well means to ride correctly, that is, to be able to correctly put on a bridle and saddle a horse, to be able to make it walk, trot and canter in various directions, to be able to jump over a simple obstacle, while maintaining the correct posture.
Riding lessons can be carried out on any flat area with soft, but not viscous soil. If possible, the site should be fenced off with some kind of fence, giving it the appearance of an open arena. You need to ride at least 2-3 times a week for 1-1.5 hours and first on calmer horses.

A horse, like any pet, requires constant care. It must be cleaned every day, watered and fed at least three times a day, and given work lasting at least two, but not more than 6 hours a day.
The room (stable) where the horses are located is equipped with looms 160-200 cm wide or stalls with an area of ​​2.5x2.5 m or more. This area must be well ventilated and kept clean at all times. The horse should stand on a bed of straw or sawdust, which is systematically replaced as it gets dirty.
Every day the horse is cleaned in the morning and some time after work. To do this, they take her out on a halter to the street, and in inclement weather into the corridor, to the denouement, they rub it with a tourniquet and clean it with a brush with a comb or a vacuum cleaner.
When brushing with a comb, the latter should in no case be used to clean the horse, but only to clean the brush. Cleaning the horse should begin with the head, move to the croup and end with the limbs. The brush should be brushed against the coat and then over the coat. After 2-3 movements with a brush, it should be cleaned of hair and dust on the comb. After the horse is cleaned, it is wiped with a damp cloth. Eyes, nostrils are wiped with a cloth moistened with water.
When vacuuming, the head and legs are treated with a brush and cloth, and the neck, shoulders, back and croup with a vacuum cleaner. Finishing the cleaning, you need to clean the hooves with a hook and wash them, and comb the mane and tail with a comb or disassemble with your hands (fingers).
The horse should receive 2-4 buckets of water during the day (if there are no automatic drinkers), 4-6 kg of oats or barley and 5-8 kg of hay. Water must be given before dry food. It is also necessary to give salt in each cleaning with food or keep lump salt (lick) in the feeders. It is very useful to add carrots to the diet.
Sick or severely overworked horses should not receive dry grain - it must be flattened or steamed, and it is best to give bran porridge instead of oats.
If the horse has not eaten the next supply of feed, this indicates that he does not feel well. In this case, you need to take her temperature and call a doctor. If a horse, while standing in the stable, suddenly sweats or behaves restlessly, this also indicates his illness. A horse showing any of these symptoms should be taken out of work.
If a horse, even slightly, is lame in one of its legs, it must not be ridden and must be given complete rest until it no longer limps. If swelling or wear is found in the withers, back or girths, the horse is released from work under the saddle.
Each horse must have its own saddle, bridle, halter, horse blanket, brush, comb, hoof hook, hay or straw to remove adhering dirt, cloth and bucket - all these items should belong to only one horse (Fig. 3).
Before you start riding, you need to study well the structure, parts and purpose of the saddle and bridle. An ordinary bridle consists of two cheek straps, a nape or shoulder strap, a forehead strap, a chin strap, a portable strap, two reins, a strap or webbing (right and left), and a snaffle iron (bit). You can use the bridle without a portable belt. The bridle is used to control the front of the horse (head, neck, shoulders) and to regulate the speed and direction of movement.
There are two main types of saddles - drill and sports (Fig. 4). Both of these types of saddle can be used for training purposes, but it is easier for a beginner to ride a front saddle.
The figure shows the drill saddle assembled and disassembled. It is necessary to remember the names of the individual parts of the saddle: benches, front and back bows, felt lining, live bait, front and back girths, connecting strap, leather tire, wings, putlischa and stirrups. What is the purpose of all these parts of the saddle?
Felt-lined benches, in contact with the horse's back, distribute the weight of the rider evenly on both sides of the back.
Bows - firstly, hold the benches in a constant position, and, in addition, a wide rawhide belt is stretched between them - live bait, which, elastically stretching, allows the rider to sit comfortably without touching the horse's back.
Girths - designed to firmly pull the saddle to the horse's body. The connecting belt does not allow them to diverge.
Leather tire - covers the front and back bows with live bait and cushions sewn to it, in its back part, smoothing out all the bumps and making the seat smooth and comfortable.
Leather fenders - come out from under the leather cover and are located on the sides of the saddle. They serve to fit the inside of the rider's legs. The front of the wing should be thickened for a better knee fit.
Putlishcha - support the stirrups, against which the rider's feet rest.
In the same figure, next to it, a sports saddle is shown. This type of saddle is recommended for almost all equestrian sports, as it is much lighter and thinner than a drill saddle and gives the horse and rider a better feel for each other.
A sports saddle has an arch, seat cushions, front and rear girths, harnesses, leather tires and wings, putlis and stirrups. The purpose of the parts of the sports saddle is the same as in the drill saddle.
The rider's inventory also includes a whip and spurs, but spurs should not be worn by beginners to learn to ride - they only bring harm. A beginner rider, if his horse is lazy, should be given a whip. The whip is a stick with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm and a length of 70-75 cm. The whip can serve both to punish the horse and to indicate. As an indication, it serves in cases where it is only touched, and as a punishment, it should be used only in the most extreme cases. In this case, only one or two hits are allowed. Beating an animal is prohibited.

PUTTING ON THE BRIDLE AND SADDLE

Before entering a horse in a stall or barre, you need to call out to it. They always approach the horse from the left side, but if it is uncomfortable, you should tell it “accept” and make it move, giving it the opportunity to approach it from the left side. If the horse is strict and does not want to give in to your demands, you can go to him from the right side, go around him in front and, going to the left side, make him move to the right. Having entered the stall or the machine, first of all, you should look into the feeder and make sure that the horse has eaten the food. After that, check if it is clean. It happens that the horse, although it was cleaned, but after that lay. In this case, it must again be cleaned of adhering dirt or bedding. It is also necessary to inspect the hooves and clean them with a hook. After that, you can put on a bridle and saddle.
If the horse is standing in a stall without a leash, then a bridle is first put on it, and then saddled. If she stands in the machine, on a halter, they first saddle, and then put on a bridle.
The bridle takes place as follows: the bridle belonging to this horse is taken in the left hand, the chin strap is unfastened, on which the rein is usually fastened, and, taking the rein in the right hand, they approach the horse from the left side and throw it over the head on the neck (Fig. 6A). When the reins are thrown over the neck, the right hand is passed under the horse's chin and, clasping the head, they take the nose, intercepting the bridle from the left hand by the middle of the cheek straps (Fig. 6B). At this time, they take the bit with the left hand and insert it into the horse's mouth. A poorly educated horse sometimes does not take the bit itself, then it is necessary to insert them from the side, where the toothless edge of the jaw begins. In this place it is safe to stick them with your fingers.
As soon as the horse begins to take the iron, the right hand with the bridle is raised up and, helping the freed left hand, they tuck the headband behind the ears and take out the bangs over the forehead. The chin strap is then fastened (Fig. 6B).
If the bridle is not fitted, care must be taken that it is not too small or too large. To do this, unfasten the buckle of the cheek strap and release or raise it so that the snaffle lies calmly in the corners of the mouth, without dropping to the teeth and without pulling the corners of the lips.
When the horse is bridled, it can begin to saddle. A saddle with a sweatshirt is taken on the left hand and, approaching it from the left side, with the right hand they pass over the wool from the withers to the waist. By doing this movement, we make sure that the back does not have any roughness or specks, which, if caught between the saddle and the horse's back, can lead to knocks and put the horse out of action.
A small lump of dirt or a grain of oats, accidentally caught under the saddle, in one hour of riding can cause abrasion or a bump, which later turns into inflammation, it will not be possible to ride a horse for several days, and sometimes weeks and months.
Checking the cleanliness of the back before you place the saddle on it is essential. You also need to carefully check the cleanliness of the sweatshirt.
After making sure that the back and padding are clean, you place the saddle first close to the withers, and then move it through the coat to the correct position on the back. At the same time, the correct position of the sweatshirt is checked, the middle of which in front and behind should coincide with the middle of the saddle. It is necessary to ensure that it is evenly visible from under the saddle, does not tuck anywhere and does not touch the withers.
The correct position of the saddle on the back of the horse is important not only for the athlete, who, due to incorrect saddle, can lose the competition, but also for every person using the horse under the saddle.
The saddle is designed so that, if it is properly placed, the weight of the rider sitting in it will interfere with the horse's movements less because, as shown in figure 7, the plumb line passing through the rider's center of gravity will exactly or almost coincide with the line passing through the center of gravity of the horse. In this position, the horse and rider will the best way are balanced among themselves, which is especially important when their movements interact.

Figure 8 shows three different saddle positions on the horse's back - too forward, too back, and correct. In the first case (A), when the saddle is placed too forward, it touches the withers and may damage it while riding. In addition, this position of the saddle puts a lot of stress on the shoulders of the horse, which eventually leads to lameness.
In the second case (B), the saddle is set too far back. This position puts a lot of stress on the horse's lower back.
In the third case (B), the saddle is correctly positioned. It lies exactly on the back of the horse. The girth and harness run along the line of the horse's center of gravity.
For the correct position of the saddle, it is necessary that the withers and the upper rear edge of the shoulder blade of the horse are not covered by it, and the back pommel of the saddle should not be beyond the line of the last rib.
When you make sure that the saddle is placed correctly, you need to throw the girths to the right side and, going around the horse in front, straighten them so that they are not twisted and the second girth lies on the first, that is, the back girth on the front. This requirement applies to a sports saddle, and in a combat saddle, the girths lie apart from each other by the width of the connecting strap.
After making sure that everything is in order on the right side, go to the left side and tighten the girths. Tighten the front girth first, then the back. But you should never tighten the girths to failure in the stable. Pulling up only slightly, they take the horse into the arena or into the yard and, before sitting in the saddle, they pull it up again. After walking for about five to ten minutes, you need to check the girths again and, possibly, tighten them up more. Before riding a horse, always check whether the girths are well tightened. If the girths are loosely tightened, the saddle will move to one side when landing, and during the ride it can erase or dent the horse's back.
After you tightened the girths, you need to adjust the length of the stirrup. The length of the putlische varies depending on the gait, on the course and speed of the horse, and on the length of the rider's legs.
In order to change the length of the stirrup, there are holes on the putliche, thanks to which it can be made shorter or longer.
For normal driving, the length of the putlisch is determined by the length of the outstretched arm (Fig. 9). If you put the ends of your fingers on the buckle of the putliska, and with the other hand take hold of the stirrup and, pulling it, attach it to your hand, the stirrup should touch the body of the rider. This method of fitting stirrups is the most convenient. The final fitting of stirrups is done in the saddle.
When unsaddling the horse, the stirrups are first pulled up along the lower belt of the putle up to failure, and the whole putle is passed into the stirrup as shown in Fig. 10, and then the girths are unfastened, the back and then the front, after which the saddle is removed from the back of the horse to the left hand, throwing the right girth over the saddle. The saddle should always be put neatly in place and wiped with a cloth, just like a bridle. It is especially important to monitor the cleanliness and dryness of metal parts, including snaffle iron, as they quickly rust from dampness and dirt. It is necessary to be able to saddle and put on a bridle quickly and well, without fussiness - with confident and precise movements.
The saddled horse is led out of the stable on the bit. Lead on the reins as follows (Fig. 11): taking the ends of the reins in your left hand, take them both in a fist with your right hand at the horse’s chin, near the buckles, separating the reins with your index finger. Then, standing at the left shoulder of the horse and sending it forward with your right hand, move with it. Do not release the reins from your left hand, as a horse may step on them.
When you take the horse to the arena or yard, you can sit on it.

HOW TO SIT THE HORSE CORRECTLY

Landing on a horse is carried out from the “at attention” position, in which the rider stands at the left shoulder of the horse with the reins disassembled, as when driving on the rein (Fig. 12, A).
In order to learn how to properly and quickly mount a horse, you first need to do it in divisions, in three steps.
According to the count "one" - turning to the right, throw the rein with your right hand over your head to your neck and, taking a step to the right, simultaneously align and tighten the rein (Fig. 12, B and C).
Then with your left hand you intercept the reins at the neck (with the grip of the mane) and, having made a half turn to the right, with your right hand you take hold of the stirrup, turning it with the outer side towards you (Fig. 12, D). This movement ends the first account.
On the count of "two" - insert your left foot into the stirrup, grab the back pommel with your right hand and push your right foot, helping with your hands, go point blank on your left foot, stretched out on the stirrup (Fig. 12, D). With your right hand, lean on the front of the saddle and transfer the straight right leg over the horse's croup, while turning to face forward and lowering smoothly into the saddle (Fig. 12, E).
On the count of "three" - "take" the stirrup with your right foot, disassemble the reins and take the position of the correct landing on the spot (Fig. 13).
The stirrup must be taken from the outer (away from the horse) side so that the putlisch belt does not twist, but lies smoothly along the shin of the leg,
After landing several times on divisions into three counts, you can proceed to merge all these movements together and ensure that they are all done consistently, quickly, clearly and naturally, one after another.
Dismounting from the horse occurs in the reverse order to the “at attention” position.
Namely: according to the count "one" - with your left hand you take both reins with a mane, and with your right hand you lean on the front pommel and take your right foot out of the stirrup.
On the count of "two" - transfer the right Leg over the croup and put it on the ground, take the left foot out of the stirrup and put it on the right.
On the count of "three" - making a Half turn and a step to the left, remove the reins from the neck and with a turn to the left stand at attention.
After the rider has learned to mount and dismount correctly, his main task remains to acquire the correct fit, that is, to properly hold the torso, arms and legs while sitting on the horse.
With a proper fit, the torso should always be vertical, the head should also be kept straight and look forward.
The shoulders should be deployed, the back is straight, the lower back is slightly bent forward. Hands from shoulder to elbow should be kept along the body, vertically and naturally bent at the elbows, with fingers clenched into a fist. Fists should be kept upright, at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other (Fig. 13).
The thigh should point forward and downward at an angle of approximately 45° to the vertical line. The knee is tightly pressed to the saddle. The lower leg is directed from the knee back and down, forming an angle of approximately 105-115 ° under the knee.
The foot must always be in horizontal position, and it is necessary to ensure that from the very first lessons the socks do not fall down, which is often observed in novice riders.
The position described above is essential for standing still and for very slow movements at the trot and canter. With an increase in the speed of movement, the body is fed forward and it is recommended to shorten the stirrup.
When shortening the stirrup, the popliteal angle decreases, but it should never be less than a right angle, even in the jump (Fig. 14).
It is necessary to ensure that the leg from the knee down does not go too forward or backward, but keeps correct position, in which the perpendicular, lowered from the knee down, should touch the toe of the boot, and the heel should lie at the side, immediately behind the girth. This position of the lower leg must not be changed under any circumstances. You have a short stirrup or a long one, your body is strongly forward or you sit straight - the position of the leg from the knee down should always be the same.
Once you have mastered the requirements of proper seating, you can move on to learning the means and methods of controlling the horse.

BASIC MEANS AND METHODS OF HORSE CONTROL

There are three means of controlling a horse - leg, rein and body.
The shankel is the inside of the rider's leg from knee to heel. Schenkel is the main means of control. By squeezing or pushing the horse with the legs, we make it move forward. When working the leg, the knee and thigh must be pressed tightly against the saddle.
The occasion is the second and no less important means of control. It serves to direct and regulate the speed of the horse. If it is necessary to slow down the movement or completely stop the horse, then the rider evenly pulls both reins and himself. If from a place it is necessary to move forward or accelerate the movement, then the reins are slightly released, but never completely abandoned. The reins indicate the horses and the direction of movement: when turning to the right, pull the right rein, while turning left - the left one.
The rein can be shorter or longer depending on where you catch it with your hands. Figure 15A shows a rider with the reins cut too long. With such an analysis, when he begins to pull the reins on himself, his elbows will go beyond the line of the body, and his fists will stumble on the body - he will be forced to tilt the body back. All this will make his landing wrong.
You can not intercept the occasion and too short. In this case, the arms and body will stretch too forward and the landing will also become incorrect (Fig. 15, B).
When working with the reins, one must remember that it is connected to the snaffle iron lying in the horse's mouth, on the toothless edge of the jaw, and that any sharp and rough movement will cause her a painful sensation. Therefore, you need to work with the reins calmly, without jerks, picking it up, even if it is strong, but gently.
There are three ways to parse the reins when riding. "On the bridle" - educational, drill and race.
All three ways of breaking the reins are shown in Figure 16. The example "a" shows the breaking of the reins in a training way. In this analysis, the left rein is taken in the left hand, and the right rein in the right. The rein is passed into the fist from bottom to top between the little finger and ring finger and exits between the thumb and forefinger. The ends of the reins are thrown over the left side of the horse's neck. The fists are held upright at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other near the withers of the horse.
The example “b” shows a parsing in “water in a drill. In this parsing, both reins are taken in the left hand, passing the left rein between the little finger and ring fingers, and the right rein between the index and middle. The ends of the reins are passed between the index and with the thumbs on the right side of the horse's neck.The fist is held with the fingers down.Reassembly is used only during salutes, games, cutting vines, and in all other cases when the rider's right hand must be free from the reins.
The example "c" shows the analysis of the occasion in a race way. In this case, the reins are taken apart in both hands - left to the left and right to the right, but the ends of each rein are passed additionally into the other hand, thus forming a loop. This analysis of the occasion is recommended only for smooth races. The loop rests on the horse's neck, and the hands, lowered on the sides of the neck, use this loop as a lever.
The body of the rider also plays a big role in the management of the horse. If the rider does not accompany the movements of his body with the movements of the horse, then he will be uncomfortable for her, will greatly tire her, prevent her from moving correctly.
The position of the body must always be in accordance with the movement of the horse. At the beginning of any movement or with an increase in its pace, the body must be fed forward. The greater the speed of movement, the more the body moves forward. When turning, the body leans in the direction of the turn, and the steeper the turn, the higher the speed it is performed, the more the body moves in the direction of the turn.
These three controls are the basis of riding and are used in constant interaction with each other. The skill of the rider at the right time to correctly and gently apply all three controls will determine his skill in riding. It is necessary to control the horse in such a way that it is not visible from the side what the rider is doing, so that it seems that the rider does nothing, and the horse under him does everything himself.

MEADPIECE HEADBAND, ITS FIT AND PURPOSE

To participate in the biathlon, one must be able to perform elementary exercises in the arena, using a headband (Fig. 17). It differs from the bridle in that it has an additional pair of cheek straps and reins, to which a second iron mouthpiece is attached (Fig. 18).
The mouthpiece serves to enhance the action of the reins, but they must be used very carefully and gently and the horse should be accustomed to it gradually. A sharp and rough action with the mouthpiece leads to damage to the horse and ill-health. When adjusting the iron, the mouthpiece is placed two fingers below the snaffle on the toothless edge of the horse's jaw, but so that it does not touch the fangs (Fig. 19). The mouthpiece mouthpiece comes in different thicknesses. The more sensitive the mouth, the softer (thicker) the bite should be and the shorter the levers of the cheeks of the mouthpiece.
When pulling on the reins, the mouthpiece should not fall too much. Its position in relation to the lower jaw should not exceed 90°. To prevent this position from being violated, a connecting chain or strap is attached to the upper rings of the cheeks of the mouthpiece, passing along the horse's chin.
When working without a chain or strap, the mouthpiece is adjusted a little higher, and it is recommended to wear a carrying strap that passes through the mouthpiece cheek straps. It will not let the mouthpiece get into the wrong position.
The mouthpiece is a very strong lever on the horse's lower jaw and must be used very gently.
The mouthpiece is used only for giving in the back of the head and setting the horse's head. In all other cases (turns, rulings, raising the head up), a snaffle is used.
There are several ways to break the reins when riding a horse with a bridle.
For the Dressage Riding Combined, it is best to take the reins in two hands, as shown in fig. 20, - right reins in the right hand, left - in the left, snaffle reins - outward, mouthpiece - inward.
Strengthening the work of the reins when using a headband, it is necessary to strengthen the leg with a spur accordingly.
The best sports spur is with a ball at the end (Fig. 21). It strengthens the leg sufficiently and does not hurt the sides of the horse.
Speaking about the mouthpiece headband, its fitting and purpose, we especially draw the attention of instructors, trainers and practitioners themselves to the fact that they should be used only in exceptional cases when performing certain discharge standards or when preparing (training) a horse for participation in important competitions, where the use of a headband is an unavoidable measure. IN normal process conducting training sessions, you should not use a mouthpiece headband and spurs.

PALES, ELEMENTARY EXERCISES AND COMMANDS

Gaits are the movement of a horse at different speeds. Walk, trot, gallop are the main natural gaits.
What is each of these gaits?
All of them differ from each other in the number of so-called paces, which are determined by the number of hoof hits on the ground.
A walk is a gait that has four paces, that is, the horse alternately, diagonally puts each of its four legs on the ground, namely:
left rear - right front, right rear - left front.
In order to step forward from a standing position, you must first check the correct position. Having made sure of this, move the body forward a little and, having softened the tension of the reins, give a push simultaneously with both legs. After the horse has moved, you need to adjust the speed of movement according to your task, reducing it, holding the horse with the reins if he went too fast, and sending him with his legs if he went slower than you wanted.
Once you are comfortable with the horse's straight walk, move on to learning how to turn. If you need to turn left, you feed the body to the left and, pushing with your legs, pick up the left rein. Remember that by pulling on the reins you are stopping the movement, so if you need to maintain the same speed of movement, you must increase the work of the legs accordingly when using the reins. During the turn, the horse must assume a bent position in the direction of the turn.
During the execution of the turn, you need to feel all the movements of the horse and carefully monitor them. If it starts to stop, it means that the rein was working harder than the leg. But the rider should not wait for the horse to stop - he should feel much earlier that he begins to slow down to stop, and quickly prevent the stop with his legs.
Riding requires a lot of attention from the rider. You must train yourself to always follow the behavior of the horse, its movement, train yourself to feel and be aware of these movements, and in case they do not meet your requirements, quickly apply the necessary controls to correct the error.
When you can easily handle the horse at a walk in a straight line, when stopping and turning, you can move on to learning the trot.
The trot is a gait in two paces, that is, the horse puts two legs diagonally at one pace and jumps forward and up to two legs along the other diagonal at the second pace (if the first pace is the left front and right rear, that is, the left diagonal, then second pace - right front and left back, that is, the right diagonal). At the moment of transition from diagonal to diagonal, a jump is obtained, thanks to which the horse throws up the rider sitting on his back. These shocks create a difficulty in learning to ride, which the beginner rider has to overcome for many days until he learns to easily and naturally accept the shocks of the horse at the training trot.
To strengthen the rider's seat, a training trot with stirrups and without stirrups is used. At the training trot, the rider maintains a vertical position of the body and balances, maintaining this balance. inside legs.
This gait is the most difficult because the trotting horse makes a continuous series of pushes, during which the novice athlete loses his balance and feels very unsteady, and sometimes even falls. But that is precisely why riding at a training trot without stirrups is absolutely necessary when learning to ride a horse, and she needs to take the most great place, as it is the main tool that strengthens the seat and develops the balance of the rider on the horse. Sitting on a horse at a training trot should be calm, relaxed, maintaining the correct posture, without moving your arms, shoulders or legs.
In order for the horse to move from a walk to a trot, it is necessary to increase the action of the legs with frequent pushes until he does this. Sometimes it is enough for a hot horse to release the reins - and he already switches to a trot, a calmer horse needs to be given a push with his legs, and a lazy horse needs to be given several quick and sharp pushes in a row. The rider needs to feel what his horse is asking for and work the legs as much as necessary.
A beginner rider should not ride the training trot for too long, especially in the first lessons. It is better to repeat the training trot four or five times for one or two circles of the arena or area in which you are training. Gradually, with progress, the length of the reprise can be increased, but not more than 10 minutes. The training trot must be ridden with stirrups and without stirrups, and always in one and the other side of the arena or platform.
Do not hold your heels on the horse, remember that the foot should always be parallel to the ground and the toe turned naturally. It is very important to maintain the correct landing position at the training trot. While riding at a training trot without stirrups, it is useful to do gymnastic exercises that help develop balance and ease in the rider. Figure 22 shows a series of exercises that must be done first at the walk, and then, when the rider is comfortable with the trot, at the trot.
On turns, when trotting, they do the same as on a walk, making sure that the horse walks at the same pace and in no case stops or goes to a walk.
In addition to the training trot, there is the so-called drill, or lightweight, trot. It consists in the fact that the rider, standing up on the stirrups, moves the body forward and upward, skipping one push at this time. Having lowered himself into the saddle, the rider immediately rises again, etc. These lowerings and raisings must be done rhythmically, in accordance with the rhythm of the horse's movement.
The balance at this trot is no longer established along the seat, as in the training trot, but along the foot, through the knee. The body leans forward slightly. The stress on the stirrup increases. Do not rise high from the saddle, but do it only enough to miss the pace.
The posting trot can be regular and extended. The extended trot is a very fast gait and can reach the speed of a free canter.
While trotting, the arms should not dangle and the elbows should not move away from the body. The popliteal angle will increase as the rider gets up, and decrease as the rider descends into the saddle, but the knee should lie snugly on the wing of the saddle in the same place.
Schenkel should always feel the sides of the horse and, if necessary, send it at the moment when the rider is lowered into the saddle. It is especially necessary to ensure that the foot is parallel to the ground and that when standing up in the stirrups, the leg does not go forward, but maintains the correct position at the sides of the horse.
When you are comfortable with the control of the training and posting trot in a straight line, you can move on to learning changes of direction, circles, rides and turns.

When learning to ride a horse, a number of commands are used to perform various exercises. The main ones should be known to every equestrian.
All teams, except for the team "Attention" or "Reason", are divided into two parts - preliminary and executive. The preliminary command gives the rider time to figure out what ways to control and how to influence the horse. The executive command “March” is given by the horsemen with a drawl - “ma-arsh”, so that the rider has time to convey his demand to the horse.
Thus, having heard a preliminary command, you need to quickly figure out what needs to be done on this command, how and how to influence the horse so that it fulfills this command, and prepare it for the execution of the movement. On the executive command, the horse is forced to obey and perform the required movement.
The most necessary commands are as follows:
"Step - ma-a-rsh!". At the command "Step" you realize that you need to soften the reins and send the horse forward with legs. At the command "Ma-arsh!" you send the horse out and walk.
"A trot - ma-arsh!" - everyone goes to the front trot. If it is necessary to go at a training trot, then the command “Training trot - ma-arsh!” Is given.
"Change (or rider) - hundred-oh-th!" - according to the preliminary command, you need to figure out that now there will be a “Stop” command, which means you need to pull the reins and stop moving. According to the executive command "One hundred-oh-th!" stop the horse and stand on the command "Attention"; The horse must stand straight on all four legs.
“Change of direction (from the corner or through the arena) - ma-a-arsh!” The change of direction is done from the place where the executive team finds: if from the corner, then diagonally along the arena or the platform on which you are training. It is necessary to give the executive command in such a way that the turn is obtained when the horse goes six steps from the corner along the long wall or diagonally does not reach six steps to the opposite corner. Thus, the turns will come out not sharp, but smooth (Fig. 22, A).
The change of direction through the arena is done where the “Ma-a-rsh!” command caught you, and perpendicular to the opposite wall, changing the direction of movement (Fig. 22, B).
“Right (or left) back - ma-a-rsh!” - at the command "Ma-a-arsh!" make a half-volt (semicircle) with a diameter of 5-6 m and, approaching the wall in a half turn, move in the opposite direction (Fig. 22, B).
"Volt to the left (or right) - ma-a-rsh!" - on the executive command, they make a full circle with a diameter of 5-6 m, moving away from the wall and approaching it back, and continue moving in the original direction (Fig. 22, D).
“Left (or right) around - maa-rsh!” - on the executive command, a complete stop must follow, and then the movement of the front legs of the horse around the hind legs in the indicated direction. The horse's hind legs should turn in place, and the front legs should describe a circle, while the horse's head should look in the direction of the turn, and the inner hind leg serves as the axis of turn (Fig. 23, b).
“Left (or right) around in front - ma-a-arsh!” - on the executive command, a complete stop must follow and then the movement of the horse's hindquarters around the forehand. Her front legs should step over in place, and her back legs should describe a circle. The horse's head should be directed in the direction of movement of the hind legs, and the axis of rotation should be the inside front leg (Fig. 23, a).
"Back equal - ma-a-rsh!". This command is usually given from a standing position - you need to rein the horse back 3-4 steps and stop it, then repeat this movement until the command "Stop!".
The most difficult of these exercises are the "circle" turns on the back and on the front, as they require separate work of each leg and already some skill in the interaction of leg, rein and body, which always act in the direction of the turn. Therefore, these exercises are used only at the end of the first year of training, when riders become more experienced.
When changing from a larger gait to a smaller one, as, for example, from a canter to a trot or from a trot to a walk, the command "March!" is not given, but simply drawn out commands are given: “R-r-lynx-yu” or “Sha-a-gom!”
Changes of direction, turns and rides can be made by a group of riders, independently and by head number. In order to make the movement "by the head number", the words are added before the preliminary command: "By the head number ..."
For example: “According to the head number, right-back - ma-a-rsh!” or “According to the head number, change of direction through the middle of the arena - ma-arsh!” etc.
In rides and circles, the horse should be bent at the side in the circle that you describe with this turn.
This bend can be achieved by driving the inside rein on the horse's head and working with the legs, of which the outside one is pulled back a little (Fig. 24). The position that this achieves is called the horse's setting in the direction of the turn. In this case, the inner shankel is, as it were, the axis of rotation.
One must learn to make a decision in one direction and another, walking in a straight line, but here it is much more insignificant than when turning. Usually it is enough to see the rear edge of the horse's eye, but when walking in a straight line, you need to make sure that the horse does not throw back to the side, but puts its hind legs in the footprint of the front (Fig. 25).
Having learned well what a resolution is, and having learned how to easily achieve it, you can move on to the next gait - a gallop.
Gallop - gait in three paces. The horse, leaning, for example, in the first pace on the left hind leg, puts the left front and right hind legs (left diagonal) in the second pace, leaving the third pace on the right front, and then repeats these movements, separated by a moment of suspension in the air between the third and first pace, until you bring it to a trot or walk.
A canter whose third tempo hits the right forefoot is called a right foot canter, and a canter whose third tempo hits the left front is called a left foot canter.
All ridden horses must be able to canter on both the left and right foot, and every rider in the first year of training must be able to get the horse to canter on a certain foot.
When riding in the arena, along the wall, at the command “Gallop - ma-a-rsh1”, the horse is always raised from inner leg, namely: when driving to the left - from the left, when driving to the right - from the right. If the horse is walking on the outside foot, this canter is called a counter canter.
While riding, one should always carefully listen, as it were, to the movement of the horse and try to prevent disobedience with a timely message. If the horse is trying to accelerate the canter, the leg must be completely calm, and the action of the rein is intensified.
For a rider who can sit well at the training and posting trot, and who can perform all of the above exercises, cantering presents no difficulty.
Figure 26 shows how the rider is seated:
A - on all shortened movements - walk, shortened trot, shortened arena canter - try to maintain a vertical position of the body; seat balance; B - landing when riding a drill trot and in the field - balance on the foot; B - landing for competitions with jumps and for crosses - balance on the foot, the body is strongly forward.
In no case, except for long descents from the mountain, should the body be fed back.

Speeds of normal gaits:
step - 10 min 1 km;
training lynx - 7-8 minutes 1 km;
drill lynx - 5 min 1 km;
lynx added - 3-4 min 1 km;
arena gallop - 7-8 min 1. km;
gallop free - 3-4 min 1 km;
field gallop - 2-2.5 min 1 km;
quarry - gallop at full capacity of the horse (frisky gallop).

JUMPING OVER OBSTACLES

When you learn how to maintain the correct seat and feel at ease when riding without stirrups at a trot, you can move on to jumping over obstacles.
Figure 27 shows a horse jumping with a rider sitting on it. The horse, when jumping, describes the trajectory, and the task of the rider is not to get out of balance with the horse during the entire time of the jump, otherwise he will prevent it from making the jump correctly and the trajectory of the jump will be violated.
In order not to lose balance with the horse, before jumping, you must move the body forward, keeping the back straight, and hands with the reins, unclenching at the elbows, move forward on the bit as much as the horse needs, so that he can stretch his head and neck. During the jump, it is very important not to interfere with the freedom of the head, neck and loin of the horse, because thanks to them it is balanced at the moment of passing over the obstacle and at the moment of landing. The slightest interference by the rider leads to the fact that the horse violates the correct flight path and clings to the obstacle with its front or hind legs.
It is recommended for the beginner to hold on to the mane on the first jumps - this will prevent the horse from twitching with the reins and creates a more stable position for the rider on the jump, thanks to which it will be easier to maintain the correct landing.
After you get used to jumping, you need to gradually accustom yourself to jump without holding on to the mane, giving your hands forward on occasion. After the jump, when the horse has already touched the ground with its hind legs, the rider brings his arms and body back to the previous position in accordance with the speed and gait with which he rode before the jump and with which he intends to ride further.
Jumping training begins with stepping over a pole or log lying on the ground. Then you need to do the same at the trot, and if everything goes smoothly, that is, the horse willingly goes to the jump and the rider, having mastered the jump, maintains the correct landing, you can start to jump from a canter.
Gradually, as you learn, you can increase and expand the obstacles, but in the first year of training it is not recommended to set them above one meter. It is better to work on polishing the jump technique.
It is necessary to familiarize the rider with all types of obstacles, diversifying them, placing them in different directions, as well as in systems, in one, two and three paces. The word "tempo" here means the distance in meters captured by the horse in one gallop pace. When compiling a system of obstacles, the coach must take into account that if he places an obstacle at one pace, he must place them at a distance of 3-3.5 m from each other, if at two paces, then at a distance of 7-7.5 m, if at three paces, then at a distance of 10.5-11 m, etc.
Jumps in systems, and especially without stirrups, work out well the laid-back, correct. landing. At each lesson, it is necessary to jump with stirrups and without stirrups.

There are a number of standard obstacles (Fig. 28) that every rider needs to be familiar with - any of them can be encountered in the classification competition for a sports category or at any official competition. All high-altitude obstacles may have a ditch or embankment in front of or behind them. They begin to jump over ditches from a small width up to 0.5 m and then gradually widen them.
If a horse or rider jumps badly over any obstacle, it means that they are still poorly prepared. In this case, you need to immediately lower the requirement and jump over obstacles that they can afford.

TYPES OF EQUESTRIAN SPORTS

Diversity various kinds equestrian competitions are second only to athletics. The main, or, as they say, classic, types of equestrian sports are considered to be: horse racing, overcoming obstacles, triathlon (dressage riding, field riding, overcoming obstacles), horse dressage. However, competitions are held not only in these classic equestrian sports.
Currently, there are thirteen types of equestrian sports, which are held sport competitions, moreover, some of them, in turn, are divided into separate types in accordance with the conditions of the competition.
The following is a brief description of certain types of competitions in equestrian sports and the conditions for their conduct.
Smooth racing - this competition is held on a smooth circle of a race track at least one kilometer long. All participants in the race are aligned, and the start is given on the move. The one who comes first wins. Smooth jumps are at a distance of 1200 to 10000m. Horses up to four years old ride at a distance of no more than 4000 m, older horses ride long distances (Fig. 29).
Barrier races are held on the same race track where smooth races take place, only for each kilometer there are three inclined Obstacles such as a notch or wattle fence 80-100 cm high. These races are held at distances of 2000 and 3000 m, horses no younger than three years old participate in the races (Fig. 30).
Obstacle racing (steeple chase) - also held on the race track in a circle or figure eight. Distance 4000 and 6000 m. In the jump with obstacles for 4000 m, 12 obstacles are placed different type height 90-120cm. In the 6000m steeplechase, 18 obstacles are set up from 100 to 130cm high with a ditch width of up to 4m. Horses in this type of racing must be older and be able to jump very well over all types of obstacles (Fig. 31).
Cross - this race is held over rough terrain, along a certain route at a distance of 3000 to 10,000 m. Various natural obstacles - fences various types, ditches, earthen ramparts, ascents, descents and fords. Guide flags are placed along the entire route at such a distance from each other that the rider, passing one flag, sees the next one.
Judges on the route are placed in such a way as to see the correctness of the passage of the participants along the route of the competition.
Overcoming obstacles - this competition is held on a flat field area or in an arena along a certain route with a time limit. The cleanliness of overcoming obstacles and the agility of the horse are taken into account. These competitions are divided into classes according to their difficulty:
easy class - obstacles - 8, jumps - 8, height 90-100cm, ditch width 2m, laying width 100cm, speed 350m/min;
middle class - obstacles-10, jumps-12, height 100-110 cm, laying width 150 cm, ditch width 2.5 m, speed 350 m/min;
difficult class and upper class.
In parkour of any class of obstacles, there must be at least two maximum heights. In the arena, the ditch is replaced by a latitudinal obstacle (Fig. 32).
In addition to the above-mentioned competitions for overcoming obstacles, there are also competitions that have special names:
"Hunter", "Six obstacles", "Up to the first mistake", "Choice", "American", "Relay", "Relay up to the first mistake", "For the power of the jump", "For the Cup". Depending on the training of athletes and horses, competitions are held of varying complexity.

The USSR Cup is a group competition in overcoming obstacles. The team consists of four people, and the offset is based on the results of the top three. The route of difficulty is of the highest class. This competition takes place in two rounds. Having passed the route once, all participants repeat it in numerical order. The winner is the one who scores the fewest points in each of the two rounds. Obstacles are set along any route. At each obstacle, limiters, bollards or slopes are placed, as well as a serial number that is clearly visible to both participants and judges. Before the first and after the last obstacle, start and finish lines are placed, during the passage of which the judge fixes the time spent by the participant on the route. The start in competitions for overcoming obstacles is separate. Playfulness and purity of overcoming obstacles are taken into account.
Triathlon is a competition that lasts for three days. All three days the athlete must ride the same horse. On the first day, horse dressage tests are carried out in the arena 60x20 m according to a specific program. On the second day, field tests for strength and endurance in cross-country conditions are carried out: driving on roads in the norm of time; steeplechase for playfulness; repeated driving on the roads (in normal time); cross country for agility. On the third day, the performance test of the horse is carried out after field trials in overcoming obstacles along a certain route on the site. The results of the three days are summed up.
Record jumps are carried out in height, width and height-latitude (Fig. 34 and 35).

Races are one of the most time-consuming equestrian sports, as they require a long and very thorough preparation of the horse. Runs are fast and endurance. High-speed runs of 50 and 100 km are held at a gallop. Endurance runs run for over long distances, and participating in them, you can use variable gaits.
Dressage competitions are held according to the program "Small Prize", "Middle Prize" and "Grand Prize". Competitions consist in the performance of complex dressage figures and transitions from one figure to another. The figures are performed in strict sequence, according to programs, for memory, in an arena measuring 60x20 m (Fig. 36).

Cutting a vine is a competition that tests the strength and accuracy of a strike and a saber thrust at high speed. At a distance of 200 m, the rider must hit 12 targets, including two injections (Fig. 37).
Vaulting is a competition in gymnastic exercises performed by an athlete on a horse trotting or galloping in a circle with a diameter of 13 m (Fig. 38).

Jigitovka - this type of competition requires great dexterity, courage and endurance from the rider, since at full speed he makes dismounts, jumps, all kinds of turntables, pyramids, racks, etc. (Fig. 39).

Equestrian games are very common in those republics where equestrian sport is a traditional, national sport. These games have their own strictly defined rules and require great skill from the rider.
But there are games that are available to athletes even III category: "Stall", "Dzhimkhana" and "Chanterelle". They can be recommended for any competitions, for novice athletes, especially "Stall" and "Dzhimkhana", the conditions of which can always be changed taking into account the degree of preparedness of the riders.

ABOUT THE RATE REQUIREMENTS FOR EQUESTRIAN SPORTS

By systematically engaging in equestrian sports, you can quickly become an athlete-discharger. The Unified All-Union Sports Classification establishes regulatory requirements, the fulfillment of which gives the right to assign sports categories: III, II, I and masters of sports of the USSR.
Below are the regulatory requirements for III and II categories.
To fulfill the standards of the III category, it is necessary to show the following results at any official competitions.
Overcoming obstacles - with an obstacle height of 90-100 cm, a width at the base of up to 100 cm, a width on top of up to 80 cm, a ditch width of 2 m, the number of obstacles is at least 8, of which at least two are 100 cm high - pass the route without penalty points .
In order to fulfill the standards of the II category, it is necessary to show the following results in one of the equestrian sports at any official competition:
1. Biathlon - arena riding according to the program for the main horses. Overcoming obstacles - the height of obstacles is 100-120 cm, the width at the base is up to 150 cm, the width at the top is up to 120 cm, 12 jumps, of which at least two are 120 cm high. For both types, score no more than 80 penalty points.
2. Overcoming obstacles - with an obstacle height of 100-110 cm, a width at the base of 150 cm, a width on top of up to 120 cm, a ditch width of 2.5 m, at least 10 obstacles, 12 jumps, of which at least two are 120 cm high. Pass the route without penalty points or "Difficult class" B "- 4 pcs. points.
3. Dressage - score at least 52% of positive points in the programs of medium, small and youth riding.

CONDITIONS FOR FULFILLMENT OF DISC REQUIREMENTS

When conducting competitions in overcoming obstacles in a closed arena, the ditch can be replaced by a wide obstacle.
Figure 39 shows an approximate parkour (route) for competitions for beginner athletes or for classification competitions according to the standards of 111 sports categories.
Figure 40 shows an approximate route for classification competitions according to the standards of the 11th sports category.
Obstacles must have slopes or limiters in the form of pedestals or peaks with flags. In addition, each obstacle must have a serial number.
Before the first and after the last obstacle, there must be start and finish lines, after passing which the time for the rider to pass this parkour is recorded.
Knocking down an obstacle is worth 4 penalty points.
The first disobedience (refusal, run-out, volt on parkour) - 3 penalty points.
Second disobedience - 6 penalty points.
Third disobedience - the rider is eliminated from the competition.
Falling with or without a horse - 8 penalty points.
Riders who have passed parkour without penalty points, approximately shown in the figures, are entitled to receive III and II sports categories, respectively.

A. LEVINA, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR

(To be continued)

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