Types of bindings for ski boots. NNN and SNS ski mounts: differences, pros and cons
Cross-country skiing divided into racing, amateur and tourist. As a rule, the purpose is indicated in the product card.
- Racing (marked Racing and Racing PRO). Such skis are designed for athletes and amateurs who want to develop speed indicators. This is an option for specially prepared tracks.
- Amateur or pleasure (Active, Fitness). This is an option for those who sometimes choose to ride in the park, do it for fun and do not strive for records. Skis are slightly wider than racing skis; expensive materials and technologies are rarely used in their production.
- Tourist (Back Country). These are skis for hunters, tourists and fishermen, people who need to move around, without a track or a ski track. Such skis are much wider than recreational ones in order to support the weight of a person on loose snow.
Skis
Classic skis (designation Classic or Cl) are longer than skate skis, have a sharp toe and a soft block. There may be notches under the last (designation TR) that prevent slipping during take-off. On the left - a ski with notches, on the right - without.
andrewskurka.com If the ski does not have notches (WAX designation), a special ointment provides an anti-slip effect. However, beginners will find it quite difficult to apply it correctly, so a notched ski is the best option.
To choose the size classic skis, add 20 cm to your height or just raise your hand: the lowered palm of the outstretched hand should touch the top of the ski.
It is also worth paying attention to the stiffness of the skis. First determine the center of gravity: put the ski on your hand so that both ends are in balance. Then fold the skis with the sliding side towards each other and squeeze with one hand 3 cm below the found center of balance. There will be a distance of 1–1.5 mm between skis of suitable stiffness.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for classic skis are low and soft, without special inserts that fix the leg.
You don't have to buy boots. If the thumb rests on the toe of the boot, the foot will quickly freeze. It is better to take shoes half a size larger.
What to buy
Sticks
When choosing sticks for classic skiing, pay attention to their length. With short ones, it will be inconvenient for you to walk on flat terrain, with long ones, it will be inconvenient to climb slopes. Choose sticks according to your height: the lanyard outlet (the place where the strap is attached to the stick) should be at the level of your shoulder.
Sticks are made from aluminum, fiberglass and carbon fiber. Aluminum can bend under load. So, if you weigh a lot, choose glass and carbon fiber. The latter provides the greatest rigidity and lightness of the sticks. These sticks are used by professional athletes.
marax.ru Also pay attention to the material of the handle. Sticks with a cork handle are well suited for walking in cold weather: the cork does not cool the hand, unlike plastic.
Skis
Skis for skating(designation Skate or Sk) are shorter and have a smooth block, since with this course the notches only interfere, clinging to the snow and reducing speed.
To find the perfect length skating, add 5-10 cm to your height.
It is also worth checking the stiffness of the skis. The gap between the skis compressed with one hand should be 1.5–2 mm.
What to buy
Boots
To prevent injuries and excessive stress on the foot during skating, additional fixation is needed. Therefore, skating boots are taller and stiffer than classic ones and are complemented by a special plastic cuff.
What to buy
Sticks
Skating poles are longer than classic ones. The lanyard should be at the level of the chin or lips of the skier.
How to choose universal skis, boots and poles
If you plan to master both classic and skating, you can purchase universal equipment.
Skis
Universal skis (Combi designation) are longer than skate skis, but shorter than classic ones. To determine the correct length, add 15 cm to your height.
As for notches, some all-purpose skis have a replaceable middle: if you want to ski in classical style, use notches; if in a ridge, remove the notched nozzle.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for universal skis are almost the same as classic ones. They are just as soft and flexible, but have a plastic cuff that supports the ankle.
What to buy
Sticks
For universal skis, poles are suitable for both classic and skating.
What are fasteners
Three types of mounts are now common: the outdated NN 75, NNN (with or without the NIS platform) and SNS.
sprint5.ru Surely many remember this mount from childhood. This is an ordinary metal brace that fixes the leg, but it does it quite badly.
It is almost impossible to skate with the NN 75. In addition, good boots for this mount are not produced. The only advantage is the low price.
What to buy
NNN (New Nordic Norm)
Auto mount NNN / spine.ru This mount consists of two guides (flexors) located at some distance
apart, and a rubber stop.
There are two options for such mounts: automatic and mechanical. The NNN's automatic fastening latches with a simple push of the boot on the brace. In the case of a mechanical one, you will have to open the lid with your hands, and after installing the boot, close it.
Mechanical fixings NNN / manaraga.ru However, the mechanical fastening is more reliable: it cannot accidentally come unfastened, for example, during a fall. Also, if you're planning on skiing in warmer weather, water that gets into the automatic binding can freeze and block it.
Also, fasteners differ in the degree of rigidity. If the NNN rubber stop is white, the mount is designed for hard riding, if it is green, for softer riding. Black stops are suitable for standard skiing, and red ones for soft skiing.
If you prefer skating, choose bindings with white or green elastic bands. If classic - with black or red.
To install NNN on skis, you need to find the center of gravity and drill a hole for the mounts. However, there is an easier and more convenient method of installation: special NIS platforms.
Mount NNN NIS / dostupny-sport.ru The Nordic Integrated System (NIS) was developed in 2005 for NNN mounts. Skis adapted to NIS are equipped with a special plate on which the mount is installed. Skis do not need to be drilled, just slide the mount along the guide plates and snap into place.
The mount is easy to install and remove, eliminates the search for the center of gravity of the ski and can be used with different pairs of skis.
What to buy
This is a mount with one wide rail and two brackets. SNS mounts also divided into automatic and mechanical.
shamov-russia.ru Unlike NNN, SNS has only three levels of hardness. They are marked with a numerical value and a color. For a classic ride, you should choose bindings with a flexor hardness of 85 (yellow), for skating - 115 (red), and for universal use - 95 (pink).
In terms of comfort, stability and lateral stability, there is little difference between SNS and NNN mounts.
Most cross country ski boots are designed with some type of binding. Therefore, first choose shoes that fit perfectly on your foot, and only then the bindings suitable for them.
Due to the NIS, NNN fasteners are more convenient to install, but SNS are more stable: due to the platform, NNNs are higher than SNS screwed on. On the other hand, a higher position increases the force of the push. In general, both bindings are used by both amateurs and professional athletes.
What to buy
What materials to choose
Skis made from solid timber or glued layers of wood are a thing of the past. In modern models, wood is also used, but, as a rule, the core consists of it, and the sliding surface is made of plastic.
If you're used to skiing with a wooden base, the plastic can feel uncomfortable due to the recoil. Plastic is more slippery and, unlike wood, does not “dislodge” when rubbing against snow.
However, with proper lubrication of plastic skis, it is quite possible to avoid kickback. As for the benefits, plastic skis more durable and, unlike wooden ones, allow you to ride at positive temperatures.
According to the manufacturing method, skis are divided into Sandwich and Cap. The former are several glued layers of plastic and wood, the latter are a wooden core with a monolithic plastic cover.
For cheaper skis, the core is made of wood with air channels. In professional and more expensive ones, it is a wooden honeycomb or is made on the basis of acrylic foam with a carbon and fiberglass mesh, lightweight polyurethane foam with carbon and fiberglass inserts (Polycell technology), Densolite foam or other lightweight synthetic materials.
The sliding surface is made of different types plastic. For cheaper options, extruded plastic is used, for more expensive options, high molecular weight universal plastic is used.
Many new technologies and materials are now being used to keep skis light and at the same time provide strength. However, all this comes at a price.
Therefore, if you are a beginner, it is worth trying regular skis with a core made of wood or Densolite foam and a base made of extruded or high molecular weight plastic. The price of such skis depends on the specific brand and ranges from 2,000 to 8,000 rubles.
Which brands to look out for
Among the well-known Russian manufacturers is the STC factory. She makes both racing and recreational Sable skis, ski poles fiberglass.
Professional models - with a honeycomb core and a sliding surface PTEX 2000 (carbon fiber), and amateur models - with a wooden core and a plastic coating. Skis are made using Cap technology and are sold at very affordable prices.
Among foreign brands (whose products are often produced in Russian factories, including STC), the Austrian manufacturer of skis and equipment Fischer is quite popular.
Fischer produces men's, women's and children's professional and amateur skis, using combined materials such as a wooden core with Air Tec Basalight basalt fibers. Fischer skis can be bought at a price of 5,000 rubles.
No less famous is the French ski brand Rossignol, whose production is located in Spain and Ukraine. The cheapest amateur skis with a light wood core and a plastic sliding surface can be bought for 5,500–6,000 rubles. Almost all skis of this brand are equipped with the NIS platform.
The third brand from the rating is the Norwegian company Madshus. Amateur skis of this brand are made using Cap technology with a core of wood with channels, glass and carbon fiber braid and a plastic base. The cost of the cheapest skis of this brand is 3,000–5,000 rubles.
Approximately in the same price category, the cheapest amateur skis are the Austrian brand Atomic and the French company Salomon. The cheaper Salomon models have a Densolite dry foam core and a graphite base, while the more expensive professional models have honeycomb cores and a zeolite base.
Each brand develops its own technologies: lighter cores, adding various minerals to improve glide, changing ski geometry. Therefore, it is best to focus on the purpose of the skis (for which course, pleasure or sports) and the availability of a length and stiffness suitable for you.
CCM in winter triathlon. Creator online programs training in cross-country skiing ProSki. He shares his experience in articles and blogs on social networks, motivates him to go in for sports by personal example. Ski poles in his hands have become an integral part of his life. Egor in In contact with And Instagram.
Winter is coming. During this period, half of the runners will ski to diversify their workouts. Sneakers will be replaced by ski boots, and ski poles will be in the hands. How to choose equipment to feel like a skier? Decide on the choice of bindings and boots together with Egor Myshkov, CCM in winter triathlon, creator of the ProSki online training program for cross-country skiing.
We will start by determining which boot fastening system we will use. There are two of them: SNS and NNN. This year, they added another one, similar to NNN - TURNAMIC. Let's consider each type in detail.
SNS PROFILE. The most popular system until 2010. The fastening design has a wide protruding strip along the entire length. There is a wide groove on the sole of the boot. The mechanism for fixing the boot and fastening is simple: automatic or mechanical. The photo below shows the mechanical version. On the automatic, we need to insert the boot bracket with force into the place where the elastic is located. The rubber insert provides elastic work and responsiveness of the boot when pushing. To unfasten from such an attachment, we will need to press a finger on the button, which is located in front of the elastic band.
SNS PILOT. Now elastic work is not required for elastic work, the boot contact and fastening system has been changed: one more jumper on the boot has been added. It clings to an additional bracket located closer to the center of the mount. This system works like a spring: after pushing with the foot, the ski quickly returns to the sole of the boot. Due to this, the speed and frequency of the work of the legs increases. Fixation of the boot is carried out only in the mechanical version.
NNN. The difference between NNN and SNS is that there are two thin guides on the mount. The design of the sole of the boot has two narrow grooves, the boot is fastened with one bracket. The contact surface of the sole of such a system is larger, the ski is felt and controlled better than with SNS.
Note: Prolink. This is the same NNN system, only released as an addition to Salomon boots. Boots with the NNN system will also fit these bindings.
TURNAMIC. The sole of the boot will be similar to the sole of the SNS, while the binding will remain the same as the NNN.
Conclusion
The SNS and SNS PILOT mount was created by SALOMON. It so happened that the boots of this company, regardless of the model, were created warm. For some, this is a minus, since on their feet they feel like felt boots. Ski control feels weak. The top models do not have this problem, as they are made of carbon: it is light and durable. The outsole is thicker than the NNN due to the protruding part of the binding. The choice should, first of all, be based on personal feelings. Each manufacturer's shoe lasts are different, so you need to compare and choose the option that suits you best.
SKI BOOT CONSTRUCTION
It is easier to start mastering cross-country skiing with skating. The classic move involves the presence of holding ointments under the ski block. To choose them correctly for the weather, you need experience, otherwise the skis will slip back. Skating - perfect option for beginners. The mechanics of movement is similar to skating or roller skating.
On boots for skating, there should be a rigid cuff that fixes the position of the ankle: it will become easier to control the ski. The sole should not be flexible, the rigidity of such boots is justified. When moving from foot to foot, it is necessary to maintain balance and control the movement of the ski. The cuff helps guide the ski and eliminate twists in the foot.
The price of boots will depend on the materials from which they are made. The carbon parts will add strength and lightness to the construction of the boot along with the price. Lightweight models are made for competitive athletes and have a high degree of rigidity. For beginners, it may just be uncomfortable to ride in such boots.
Below are the models of ski boots that I like the most in terms of functionality.
Fischer Carbonlite Skate or RC7 Skate. Comfortable boot design. Optimum rigidity, at which it is comfortable to train, as well as compete in competitions. The difference between the models is that the RC7 does not have a carbon construction, which means it is heavier.
Fischer Carbonlite Skate
Boots for advanced lovers. Cuff made of lightweight and durable 3D plastic. By design, they are similar to the top models, but more comfortable for regular workouts.
Spine Carera Carbon Pro and Concept Skate Pro. I want to mention this Russian company. Their price will be 2 times cheaper than the previous ones, and they are created on the basis of our weather conditions. These are warm boots. The quality is approaching the level of world brands. There are disadvantages only in terms of the life of individual parts of the boot. If you are just starting your skiing journey, then this is a suitable budget option.
In the next part, we will talk about choosing the length of skis and poles. Cross-country skiing develops all muscle groups, and walking in the frosty air hardens your body and saturates it with oxygen.
Love skiing! Get on your skis!
Choosing ski bindings is becoming more difficult as brands struggle to retain customers. If until 2015 there was only a screwless NIS platform, which everyone drilled and installed any fasteners without any problems, then since 2016 everything has become more complicated. The IFP system has appeared with a new platform, on which it is not so easy to put screw fasteners without an adapter. Now the choice of mounts - headache for the user uninitiated in these marketing wars.
In the article, we briefly and clearly talk about the types of ski bindings, platforms, their compatibility and which one is better to choose.
Types of ski bindings: differences between SNS, NNN and Turnamic, compatibility
More than one generation of skiers has grown up on the competition between SNS and NNN systems, everyone is already used to this - the difference between SNS and NNN is in the number of guides. In 2005, NNN switched to the NIS screwless platform and phased out screw fasteners. In 2016, the IFP system with Turnamic mounts is released - only Fischer and Rossignol skis are produced with it. Salomon and Atomic release their Prolink system - an analogue of NNN, only with screws. Now let's look at this leapfrog so that everything becomes clear.
Ski bindings NN75
Outdated fastening system Nordic Norm 75. Has no advantage other than price. Rarely found on sale and even in ski rentals.
NN 75 standard fasteners
Ski bindings SNS (Salomon Nordic System)
The system of the French brand Salomon, over time, unknown manufacturers, including Chinese, began to copy it. SNS mounts feature one wide rail. They are divided into Pilot (2 boot brackets) and the rest with one attachment point (without the word Pilot in the title). All fastenings of this system are placed on screws in drilled skis.
SNS boots are compatible with bindings:
- Salomon Profile and SNS Access
- Salomon Pilot(Pilot bindings only fit Pilot boots, Pilot boots fit all SNS bindings)
Ski-binding compatibility:
- SNS mounts are screwed onto any ski
SNS Pilot boot sole
Ski bindings NNN (New Nordic Norm)
System of the Norwegian brand Rottefella. NNN mounts exist on screws and screwless platforms. In 2016, the Turnamic binding system and boots with Turnamic soles (Fischer, Rossignol) were released - similar to the NNN sole, the boots are fully compatible. Salomon and Atomic did not stand aside, but released their Prolink mounts - the same NNN, but with screws.
NNN and Turnamic boots are compatible with bindings:
- Rottefella NNN, NIS, Move
- Fischer Turnamic and Rossignol Turnamic
- Salomon Prolink and Atomic Prolink
Ski Binding Compatibility:
- Rottefella NIS mounts for NIS platforms only
- Turnamic mounts for IFPs only
- Prolink mounts only on screws (any platform can be drilled, but more on that below)
Sole of NNN and Prolink boots. Turnamic is compatible but comes with no midfoot tread.
Skate and classic bindings
Mounts are divided into ridge and classic. On bindings for skate skis, the flexor (elastic band) is more rigid, and on the SNS Pilot there is a second boot fixation point. Bindings for classic skis have a softer flexor. In amateur combined mounts there is a universal flexor, which is suitable only for classic riding and walking.
In skating, the ski will dangle on the soft flexor during the sweep phase. In the classics, on the contrary, you need a softer flexor so that it does not interfere with the work of the foot and repulsion. Be sure to pay attention to when buying, for which style the mounts are intended.
Which ski bindings are better: mechanical or automatic
All manufacturers have automatic and mechanical fasteners in their line. Automatic latches themselves, and unfasten manually. Mechanical - fasten and unfasten manually.
- Automatic mounts are less reliable and designed for skiing, they are much cheaper than mechanical ones. They can be unfastened at the most inopportune moment, if snow has clogged into the mechanism before riding.
- Mechanical fasteners are reliable and durable, designed for training and competition, withstand heavy loads. They cost more, but they work like clockwork - they do not come unfastened at the wrong moment, the mechanism does not freeze.
SNS or NNN: which system is better?
Marketing and patent wars force skiers to compromise. In this war, only Salomon and Atomic did not fence themselves off - they released boots with different soles for different bindings. In the article, we wrote that it is better to choose bindings for boots, and not vice versa. It is impossible to say whether NNN or SNS is better - both are reliable and of high quality. The only thing that can stop you from buying SNS boots is that they are gradually losing popularity, there are fewer of them on sale. In addition, many people do not want to drill their new skis if they can not be drilled.
What brand of mounts should I choose?
The answer is probably predictable. If possible, choose fasteners from famous brands such as Salomon, Rottefella, Fischer, Rossignol, Atomic. They will be more expensive than Russian and Chinese counterparts, but they are made of durable, frost-resistant plastic and undergo strict quality control. Russian and Chinese counterparts have a higher defect rate, worse quality, but lower price.
What are the advantages of NIS and Turnamic over screw fixings?
The main advantage is not at all in simplifying installation, but in the ability to move the mount along the ski and adapt the ski to fit your needs. This is convenient in the classics, when you can adjust the hold of the skis by shifting. Moving forward a couple of clicks will give you a better grip, but the glide will suffer a little. Moving back - on the contrary, the glide will improve, but the hold will become worse. You can only adjust the holding and sliding by shifting the mounts.
In skating, by shifting the bindings, the stability / speed ratio is adjusted. Shifting forward increases ski stability, shifting back reduces stability, but increases rollout. The effect is not as significant as in the classics.
How to install NIS and IFP bindings on skis without a platform?
NIS and IFP platforms are sold separately and can be screwed onto any ski.
How to install SNS bindings on NIS and IFP skis?
How to use NIS mounts?
How to use IFP Turnamic mounts?
Play sports, move and travel! If you find an error or want to discuss the article - write in the comments. We are always happy to communicate. 🙂
After buying skis and boots, you should think about fasteners. Skiing is impossible without them. choose responsibly, taking into account all the nuances.
Fasteners are divided according to the features of their structure:
- automatic;
- mechanical.
The advantages of automatic models include:
- fastened with a machine, no need to bend down each row;
- low price of goods.
There are disadvantages:
- if pieces of ice or snow get under the shoe bracket, the automation does not work. We have to completely clear all the components of the structure;
- in case of poor-quality trimming, the fasteners may work for automatic detachment. This leads to disastrous results;
- at low temperatures, the boots stick to the bindings, as a result of which the automatic detachment does not work. In this case, the boots are removed along with all the equipment, placed in a warm place to thaw.
The advantages of fasteners on the mechanics include:
- simple and secure fastening;
- independent detachment is excluded even in adverse situations.
Of the shortcomings, only the high price is noted. But if the priority is quality, reliability, then it is worth paying more.
Selection of ski bindings
Choose ski bindings from well-known and trusted manufacturers. Salomon, Rottefella, Fischer, Rossignol, Atomic are the companies that have become brands due to the quality and reliability of their products. The cost of models, of course, is more, but the result is worth it. High quality materials are used for production. Before sale pass careful testing for quality. Analogues of Russian and Chinese manufacturers are inferior in all these indicators, but their price is much lower.
General information about skis and bindings
Fasteners are divided into three types:
- front;
- on the gutter (SNS);
- on rails (NNN).
The first type refers to obsolete technologies. At present, it has ceased to be in demand even at their low price. The next two are very popular. They differ in the number of strips for fixing fasteners.
Types of ski mounts
Ski bindings are divided into types according to their characteristics. Sport equipment selected individually. The main species are mountain and.
Ski bindings
Mounting options for mining equipment are divided into two parts: front head, rear heel. Both of them are equipped with a scale. Thanks to them, the process of setting forces is easier to perform.
The bindings have brakes, which are called ski stops. They are designed to brake the skids after they are detached. Most options have a platform equipped with rails. All parts of the bindings move along them, which allows them to be adjusted to fit shoes of any size.
The principle of operation of the front part is to press the toe of the boot to the ski. In case of excessive load, the system automatically works, unfastening the shoes. This reduces the number of injuries. The rear end secures the heel of the shoe and works the same way.
Cross-country ski bindings
For cross-country skiing, these types are used.
For them, there are protrusions on the rails. Mainly used as the front brace is slightly moved to the back. With this option, the skis are easier to manage.
Fasteners on the gutter have multi-colored rubber stops. The color of flexors for ski bindings helps to distinguish the degree of rigidity and choose the option for a particular skiing technique. The meanings of the colors are as follows:
- white for hard skating;
- green means the ski bindings are semi-rigid;
- black for standard style;
- red very soft riding.
In models of the SNS system, the brace with an elastic band is attached directly to the toe. There is also a sorting by the colors of the rubber stops. They are marked with stiffness, which divides them into:
- classic type with indicators of 85 and yellow;
- For skating technique suitable for red models with a hardness of 115;
- universal types are indicated by the number 95 and have a pink-lilac tint.
Important! Both systems are great for boots of any size. The only exception is children's and junior shoes.
Secrets of selection and settings
The choice of skis is not an easy task. Two factors are taken into account here:
- physiological characteristics of the user;
The inventory has various indicators, which are selected individually for each owner.
Ski skating technique
Important! Glue containing epoxy resins is undesirable. Their impact is detrimental to the material from which the inventory is made.
Attach the device securely. There should be no system wobble. The screw is tightened tightly, but not pinched. After completing the installation, the inventory is left to dry for 12 hours.
How to choose skis for skating
When choosing equipment for skating, they rely on the basic requirements:
- the length is the user's height plus 10-15 cm;
- the weight of the skier and the level of skiing technique are taken into account. If the skill is high, then the length is selected 15 cm more than the height. Otherwise, the minimum indicators are selected;
- a special role is played by the degree of rigidity of the runners. In the case when the weight is more than normal in relation to the height of a person, then the deficiency must be compensated for by increasing the rigidity.
How to choose skis
The choice is made according to the following parameters:
- Radius. It is determined by how steep turns are planned on the track. The smaller the radius value, the steeper you can turn around. With a radius of 17 m, the turns will be smooth.
- Width. An indicator characterizing the level of permeability. A width of 73-85 mm is suitable for skiing on prepared slopes. In deep snow, runners with a waist width of 90 mm and above work well.
- Alpine ski shape. The structure has a waist, toe and heel. The ratio of parameters gives different characteristics. The wide toe box in relation to the waist provides a good turn. The narrower the heel, compared to the waist, the better the runners glide along the track.
- Rigidity. IN skiing rigidity is not standardized. It can only be identified by touching with my own hands. Focus on the next parameter. For professionals, inventory has great rigidity.
How to choose cross-country skis
The cross-country ski option is chosen in accordance with the goal. When entertaining, it is enough to pay attention to such factors:
- Skid geometry. The narrow ones include inventory with a width of 44 to 48 mm, and the wide ones - 48 mm or more. The wider the skis, the more stable they are.
- Repulsion methods. Products come with and without notches. In the first case, the skis are always held, but the speed is much less. The lubricated ones have a high speed, but it is necessary to tinker well in the process of lubricating them. You also need to understand the correct selection of lubricant.
- The weight of the inventory is determined by its design. It takes into account the geometry, the structure of the core and the materials from which they are made.
- Length adjustment is carried out according to growth. With the correct definition, 25 cm are added to the height of the skier. The length of the sticks corresponds to the distance from the track to the armpits.
How to choose skis for a child
Depending on his age. For a three-year-old baby, inventory is short and maximum width. When a little skier is just getting on his skis, it's not about speed. At this stage, they teach to keep balance, make turns, master sliding.
Important! For the first skating, equipment is purchased with a width of 8 cm and a maximum length of 40 cm.
In the case when the child is already confidently skiing, they switch to more sports model. It should be a little narrower than 5 cm, and the length is commensurate with growth. It is calculated by the formula: height plus 15 cm. In adolescence, runners are acquired depending on. Significantly affects the choice and skating technique that the child prefers.
Ski bindings NNN and SNS: which ones to choose
There are two types of ski bindings in widespread use: SNS and NNN. Systems require the selection of the type of footwear. Although compatibility is possible in each of the directions. The feature is the presence of guides for fixing the mount.
Devices for cross-country skiing are different types. You can meet, and mechanical. Experienced skiers prefer SNS with a mechanical locking device. For beginners, NNN options with automatic fasteners are suitable. They are a little easier to handle, and they cost less. Plus, they fit any shoe size.
How much do ski boots and bindings cost
The cost of ski bindings depends on their purpose and material. The figure increases significantly when it comes to branded companies. The average price for bindings is 600,800 rubles, and for boots 2,4003,000 rubles. For example, Fischer ski bindings cost 2,197 rubles, including discounts.
Naturally, skis are one of the most important components of a skier's equipment, but not all. You will need bindings and special boots. And their diversity will confuse any beginner in skiing. And in order to decide on the choice of this ski equipment, before going to the store it will be useful to familiarize yourself with what you should pay attention to when buying.
Choice of boots
First of all, you should choose the most comfortable boots for yourself, and then look after the appropriate ski bindings. Therefore, the description will begin with ski boots.Cross-country ski boots, like skis, are divided into three types according to the intended style of skiing and into four - according to target audience.
Depending on the style of cross-country skiing, you will need boots:
- for skating style you need a high boot with a rigid cuff to fix the leg. The load on the leg with this style is higher, because the presence of a cuff is mandatory - without it, the skier can injure the leg;
- a low boot with a soft sole goes for a traditional style;
- there are also universal boots, they come with or without a removable hard cuff, with a moderately hard sole.
- boots for professionals. Such boots are subjected to the greatest load, and therefore, in their production, great attention is paid to reliability and quality. On professional cross-country ski boots, Newest technologies, so you rarely see leather elements in them - there are synthetic materials that are superior to leather in many ways. Boots for professionals are expensive, but they will last quite a long time;
- boots for sports tourism. These shoes are also subject to serious requirements. They are mainly purchased by tourists with extensive experience, as well as climbers. Sports touring boots make it comfortable for hiking, without skis, if necessary. They are most often made combined, with a replaceable cuff, the material is genuine leather with synthetic inserts. They must be reliable and durable, impact resistant;
- boots for wellness ski trips. There are no high requirements for such boots, so there are both expensive and cheaper ones: depending on the materials from which the boots are made;
- boots for children. Children's shoes should be comfortable, durable and warm. In addition, they should be easy to put on and easy to take off.
Cross-country ski boots mostly use laces. If you let go of the laces on the boot so that it can be put on freely, the laces should not fall out through the topmost lacing hole, i.e. be long enough. A properly laced boot, on the one hand, securely fixes the foot, and on the other hand, does not squeeze it. It happens that in the upper part of the boot there is an additional linden - it protects against snow getting into the boot and serves as an additional fixative. In no case should you buy ski boots without trying them on, and be sure to wear socks when trying them on. It can be either specialized socks for classes skiing, or woolen - not thin, and not thick. The ski boot should never press. On the other hand, it will be difficult to control skis in boots that are too loose.
So, trying on a boot, you need to walk in it, stand up, tear your heel off the floor - inside the boot, the heel should fit snugly against the sole, not come off it. MirSovetov also recommends paying attention to the fact that the fold formed when lifting the heel in the area of the instep of the foot should not put pressure on the fingers. If the shoes do not fit these criteria, it means that they do not suit you.
In addition, if skate boots are chosen, the cuff should hold the leg well, but not squeeze or interfere with its movement. In general, as for the stiffness of the boot, it is the largest for the skating style, the smallest for the classics, and the average for the combi.
Structure ski boots fundamentally different from the structure of cross-country ski boots. Ski boots consist of two elements - an outer boot and an inner boot.
The outer boot is responsible for the momentum transmitted by the skier during movement - the stiffer the boot, the better the skis obey.
Different companies define the stiffness of ski boots in different ways. Some firms characterize them simply: “soft”, “hard”. Others, namely Nordica and Salomon, have deduced the absolute value of stiffness - a kilogram of force per degree of deflection (meaning forward bending). For beginners, MirSovetov recommends boots with stiffness in the range of 15-60 kgf / deg. For those who have already mastered and have basic skiing skills, this bar rises to 40-80 kgf / deg. Further, when you are already quite confident on skis, you should look at ski boots with a stiffness of 60-90 kgf / deg. And the rigidity of 115 kgf / deg and more is designed for those who go in for skiing professionally, they should not be taken into consideration yet.
In general, the rigidity of the outer boot can be adjusted - but if the skier is on skis for the first time, this, of course, will not help him. The stiffness adjustment is designed for advanced skiers. Depending on the slope or effort applied, it can be slightly changed.
On the front part of the shaft there are metal or plastic fasteners-clips, equipped with length adjustment for a more precise and comfortable fixation of the leg. The number of clips can be from 1 to 4 per boot.
In addition to clips, boots can be equipped with screws designed for different purposes. For example, with a folding back, such a screw is built into a large clip; when it is twisted inside the boot, the tape fixing the leg is tightened.
In ski boots, there may also be a power belt that fixes the cuff (shaft) along its upper part.
The cuff itself can be adjusted in inclination forward and backward, which serves to more accurately fit the boot to the skier's stance. Additionally, ski boots may have another feature called canting. This option allows you to change the angle of the cuff of the boot to the left / right, adjusting it to the structure of the skeleton of the legs of a particular person.
At the back of the boot is an element responsible for improving the transfer of force to the ski.
When walking off slopes, it is convenient to top part the boot was loose. For this, there is a “walking-skating” switch, which just frees the leg enclosed in the boot from shackling. 
Another existing difference in ski boots is the principle of entry. In boots with a front entry, the cuff opens at the front, which provides a better fit for the boot. Most often, this principle is used for sports and expert models; in such boots, the cuff does not have a back tilt adjustment. The mid-entry boots feature a partially fold-down back of the boot, making it easier to put on and take off. Lastly, rear-entry boots, most comfortable for beginners, have a fold-down heel that makes them fairly easy to put on.
The inner boot in ski boots is made of soft materials. It simultaneously removes the need to put on a sock under the boot and serves for a finer fit.
Materials for the inner boot differ in their properties. For models intended for beginners, the boot is made in such a way that it takes the exact shape of the foot within the first minutes. In expert models, this takes time - the liner is made of a tougher, more stubborn material. On the one hand, it provides better contact with the ski (as well as the rigidity of the outer boot), but on the other hand, skiers who do not have the proper level of training will be uncomfortable in such boots. They can be upgraded over time.
Choosing boots for skiing on mountain slopes is more difficult. Regarding the size, there is one elementary rule that should be followed: if the foot is wide, it is better to take half a size more, because when loaded, it will definitely become even wider. For the same reason, it is necessary to try on shoes while standing.
It is necessary to try on a thin elastic sock. It should be perfectly even and smooth, without any folds, and end above the border of the end of the cuff. 
You need to understand that it is useless to focus on the manufacturer when choosing - each of them produces shoes with its own characteristics - with a wider or narrower toe or heel, with different insteps, and so on. The price for a ski boot is also not the most accurate indicator. The most expensive shoes are the expert ones, they will be very difficult for a beginner. It is extremely important to choose comfortable boots - if you try on at least a little pressure, you should not take them - on the slope this discomfort will increase many times over, which can cause a spoiled vacation (at best).
Trying on shoes, you need to fasten all the clips. You should start fastening the boot from the second clip from the toe, the one that tightens the arch of the foot, thereby fixing the heel. After that, you should listen to the sensations - do the fingers rest against the sock, can they be moved a little; the heel should not dangle or come off the insole when tilted. You need to move your foot back and forth, from side to side.
Now you can try to tighten the clips to the maximum. There is a pitfall here: do not forget that the inner boot has not yet crumpled, and then you will need to tighten the clips more strongly. And if, when trying on, they are already tightened as much as possible, then later, when it is really needed, the clips cannot be tightened.
If it seems that the boot is still small, MirSovetov recommends putting half a size larger on the second leg and again listening to the sensations of which leg is more comfortable. When trying on, you need to sit down - if it throws back, then the boot is harsh. It is better to spend 15-20 minutes in boots, stand, walk a little. Having bought boots, you should not put them away before skiing - you can walk in them at home, preparing your feet for the slopes ...
As for the companies that produce ski boots, there are a lot of them. Rossignol, Salomon, Fischer, etc. have proven themselves well.
It is useful to know that, along with typical target groups, manufacturers distinguish carving ski boots and women's models. 
There is no need for carving boots for beginners, they are designed for athletes who have long and firmly stood on skis. And the differences between these models are as follows:
- on the one hand, the increased rigidity of the outer boot in the lateral direction and, conversely, the weakening of the resistance of the cuff in the forward-backward tilt;
- along with the usual “walking-skating” switch, there is a third one (“soft”, “carve”), which is responsible for the soft resistance of the boot in the fold forward or backward.
- in this model, a “platform” is almost always used, raising the skier's leg higher above the ski surface.
Choice of mounts
Cross-country ski bindings come in three types: - front (Nordic 75);
- with a "chute" (SNS system);
- with "rails" (NNN system).
Let's dwell on each of the mounts in more detail.
Front mounts, Nordic 75. As mentioned above, this type is outdated, and is almost never used.
The NNN system has two mounting protrusions, "rails". This type of binding is preferred by amateurs, since, unlike the SNS, the front bracket of the boot is moved back, which allows better control of the skis. There are rubber stops at the front of the NNN mounts. By their color, hardness can be easily determined. Determining the stiffness is important in order to understand which bindings are best for you based on your preferred riding style. For skating, more rigidity is required, for classic, respectively, less. The color options for bindings indicating stiffness are as follows: white for the most rigid style, green for softer riding, black for standard rubber bands and red for softer ones. Thus, white and green are suitable for skate style, while black and red are suitable for classic style.
Rottefella specializes in such mounts, and also produces them for other companies. Thus, to fasteners NNN shoes from Alfa, Artex, Alpina, and Rossignol novelties are also suitable.
The SNS system differs from the above in that the boot bracket is fixed immediately in its toe. As for the color of the rubber stops, they are also different. There are three types of them, but on the "elastic bands" a figure is also squeezed out corresponding to the rigidity. There are yellow (with the number 85) - for the classics, red (115) - for the skate and universal (95) - pink-lilac. It has one protrusion for fastening the "groove". SNS bindings and boots are manufactured by Salomon. MirSovetov draws your attention to the fact that the new models of SNS mounts and boots differ from the old ones, and therefore, when buying, you should consult about the compatibility of both.
The following boot companies are suitable for SNS bindings: Salomon, old models Rossignol, Adidas, Karhu, Fisher.
SNS and NNN bindings fit all shoe sizes. The exceptions are children's and youth, they produce special fasteners, which are distinguished by a large latch handle and a softer fastening mechanism.
By the way, there are two types of fasteners: - automatic;
- mechanical.
As for the installation of fasteners, MirSovetov recommends doing this in a specialized place (in a service or store). The danger is that you can incorrectly determine the center of gravity, accidentally drill through the ski through or make the holes for the fasteners too large.
Skiing
In alpine skiing, skier safety is largely dependent on bindings. Everything is done so that when moving, they securely fix the boot, preventing it from moving out, but at the same time, if there is a possibility of a fall or injury, they immediately unfasten it.
Modern bindings for ski boots are made of heavy-duty materials - titanium, steel or high-strength plastic. The main fastening elements are: fastening head, fastening heel, platform and skistop.
Attachment head. This is the front part of the binding, which is responsible for releasing the toe of the boot when the skier falls - sideways and backwards. Its most important characteristic is elasticity. This is the ability of the head to not open up during short impulse impacts, but to return the “left” boot to its original position. Vertical elasticity can be up to 20 mm, lateral - up to 45 mm. In addition, some models have the Twincam system, which allows the boot to move to the side by half the sole. If the displacement continues, the head unfastens, if not, it returns the boot to its place.
Attachment heel. Performs the same functions as the head, only frees the heel of the boot if necessary. It also has an indicator of vertical elasticity (up to 25 mm).
According to the method of fastening, they are divided into:
- fastened by hand;
- semi-automatic - they are set manually, and then snap into place when pressed with a foot;
- automatic - fasteners snap into place when pressed;
Platform. The part of a ski binding that connects the head and heel. Its main function is to provide better contact between the mount and the ski, to mitigate micro-shocks (for example, on an uneven track) and to dampen vibration. In addition, the higher position of the boot relative to sliding surface and edging gives a number of advantages: it allows you not to violate the flexibility of the ski, contributes to a more convenient distribution of effort expended on movement, etc. Skistop is a system responsible for braking the ski when it falls. Roughly speaking, rods of metal that drop down the sides of the ski when the boot is released from the binding. Therefore, in order for the skistop to be effective, i.e. was able to slow down the ski when it was unfastened after a fall, MirSovetov advises choosing skistops in such a way that the width is greater than the width of the ski.
It is very important to initially choose the most suitable skis, bindings and boots for them. Because any discomfort when skiing will discourage the desire for further skiing. But at the same time, it is very difficult for the first time not to make a single mistake when choosing. The final understanding of what you really need will only come with time, with experience in riding. Therefore, if possible, before buying your first equipment, try out several different skis, boots, bindings (for example, by renting or borrowing from friends). Then you will be prepared for the purchase not only theoretically.
In the next article, in order to finally prepare you, we will tell you,
