Hunting skis so that they do not slip. Plastic skis slide back what to do

Oh good sliding skis they say that they go like clockwork. This comparison will help us better understand the mystery of sliding.

In physics, there is the concept of "sliding friction". The term “friction”, as it is known, introduced into science by M. V. Lomonosov, defines that amazing force, without which life on earth would be impossible. Thanks to friction, we can move, take and hold various objects in our hands. In a world in which friction would suddenly disappear, all things would instantly lose their stability, and man would turn into a weak, helpless being.

So, friction is useful and even necessary. However, in many cases, excess friction is harmful and they try to get rid of it. This primarily applies to the field of applied mechanics. The rubbing parts of machines tend to be as smooth as possible. They are carefully ground, polished, oiled. In this case, the sliding friction is replaced by the internal friction of the lubricant.

Is it possible, people thought, to use the same lubricant that is used in technology for skis, so that they glide better? But it turns out that this is not so easy to do. In machine tools and machines, we have to deal with two types of motion: rotational and reciprocating. In both cases, they strive to ensure that the lubricant is evenly distributed between the rubbing surfaces.

The situation is different with skis, on which the athlete quickly runs through the snow. If we had decided to lubricate the skis with ordinary machine oil, it would have worn off in the very first meters. Therefore, it is necessary to find such an ointment that would hold firmly on sliding surface skis. In addition, this ointment should increase the grip of skis with snow at a time when the athlete pushes off or rises uphill.

Is there such an amazing ointment in the world?

Many northern hunters pad their skis with seal or seal skins - with a pile in motion. On such snow boots, lined with fur soles, you can silently sneak up on the beast. They also have another very important advantage: You can only slide forward on them. The pile prevents them from sliding back. On such skis it is especially convenient to climb uphill.

Athletes, in collaboration with scientists, have learned how to create special ski ointments.

Circumstances sometimes develop in such a way that it is necessary to change the lubricant at the distance itself. The weather has changed, the structure of the snow has become different - and the skis have to be lubricated again. An experienced athlete will spend two or three minutes on this, but will win in sliding speed.

Soviet athlete designer V. M. Abalakov invented a special device with which a skier can quickly pick up an ointment. From the dozen varieties of ointments stored in your suitcase, you can choose the most suitable one. This device is a wooden prism with a heavy core inside. Each facet of the prism is nothing but a small ski. Every two strips you lubricate with a certain number of ointment. Then stretch the prism across the snow. She slides on slats. A small, very sensitive dynamometer notes how much force was required to move the prism from its place, as well as how much effort was expended for uniform sliding. It takes very little time to determine the coefficients of friction of several grades of ointment and choose the best one.

But skis create their own lubricant. When we slide on them on the snow, we overcome friction, and this requires energy. The energy expended to overcome friction is converted into heat, the snow under the skis compacts, melts slightly, and becomes slippery.

Now let's talk about why skiers don't have records. This is understandable - a record can be set in a sport where competitions are held under conditions that are the same for everyone, for example, in swimming pool, on a treadmill, on a cycle track. But is it possible to compare the results of skiers if one of them ran very quickly on a dense, slippery crust, the other hardly moved his skis on loose snow, and the third walked in a thaw on sticky snow.

In order to identify in skiing winner, the competitions are held under the same conditions for all participants. Whoever reaches the finish line faster is awarded the title of champion, and instead of records, simply the best achievements are taken into account.

Chief editor of the magazine "Skiing".

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of whether how to coat skis. Agree, such a statement of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if skis with a notch do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them. It's up to you to choose skis with notches or skis that involve the use of ski wax. Most importantly, do not deny yourself this miracle - the opportunity to slide along the spring track with your companion or companion, as in this case, these elderly Finns in Vuokatti. Please note that the husband and wife are dressed in the same costumes. Abroad, it is now fashionable - with this option, family members (especially if with children) look like one team.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to those who have made their choice in favor of "regular" skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them.

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper. This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski classic style, skis should be smeared under the block with holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. This middle part of the ski (block) must be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

This figure shows just the middle part of the ski, which must be smeared with ski ointment. Skiers call this ski area a block. As you can see, for short skis less than 180 cm long (children, teenagers, not very tall adult women), the block should be 60 - 65 cm long. Higher skis over 180 cm long should have a longer block - 70 - 75 cm. For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 ointments (for example, domestic Vista, Uktus, Festa or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.) and smear skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork. An excellent example of an economical ski oiling kit, named after the king of skis, multiple world champion and Olympic Games Gunde Svana (Gounde pack). Includes red ski wax (+1 - 0), purple ski wax (0 - 3), blue ski wax (-1 - 7) and synthetic stopper rub. This set is enough for the eyes for all occasions, except for the spring "wet" days, but about the "wet" days - a little lower.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Ski lubricant recipe solid ointments. You smear the ski with a jar or briquette of ointment, and then rub it with a rubbing cork until a uniform shiny layer appears. Now about one more nuance. If you are going skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and colder ointment than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.
1. Skis are not held, or, as skiers say, “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to push confidently, when you push with your foot, they slide back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.

2. Skis, as skiers say, "stupid", that is, they don’t ride at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

So, if ice or snow has formed under the block, peel them off with a scraper. If there is no scraper, this can be done with a branch, a point ski pole, the key to the apartment, the edge of another ski, etc. After that, intensively rub the ski block first with a glove, removing the lubricant from the remaining snow and moisture droplets, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and, as it were, drying the ointment. You will have to apply much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of colder ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubrication. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue walking through the forest.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of ski ointments "Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero will be smeared with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember about Golden Rule: on ski trip you should always take two briquettes (jars) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warm or cold, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

When you return home, remove the old wax from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After that, for the rest old grease Feel free to apply new grease. If you want to clean the skis clean (which, in general, is completely optional), this can be done with a piece of cotton soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded cleanser.

1. Remove the main amount of ointment from the sliding surface of the ski with a scraper.
2. Spray the remaining wax on the ski with a can of remover.
3. Wipe off wax residue from the ski with a piece of cotton wool, cloth or branded tissue.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you outside with skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the ointment blocks you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), and the skis ... categorically do not hold, “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable. p>

So, you will completely manage with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment - red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We smear ourselves with red ointment at any positive air temperature, and purple - at zero and a slight minus. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy, like in winter. As a rule, in spring it consists of hard large snow-ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather, you need a purple klister.

Universal liquid klister from the company "Swix" for skiing in any spring weather. The manufacturer orients it to all temperature ranges - from +3 to -5 degrees. That is, this universal klister replaces both the red liquid ointment, which works in the plus range, and the purple one, which works on hard icy firn at sub-zero temperatures. Good thing for skiing on sunny spring days. Along the way, advice: if such an ointment does not hold, the skis give back, when pushed, they roll back, you can try to put another small layer on top or increase the length of the block up - this is guaranteed to help. If the skis are dull, they “cling”, you need to be patient a little, ride. As a rule, the excess liquid ski wax on the spring icy snow soon disappears, and skiing becomes more comfortable.

Another versatile klister from Swix. The difference from the one above is that it is focused on a slightly warmer temperature (+10 - 3). But, in general, both of these klisters have the same purpose - to be your lifesaver during a spring skiing trip on a sun-drenched track. Because in spring you ski either on hard firn snow or on soft, “wet”, “flowing” ski tracks. So, you simply need such a klister for such days.

How to smear skis with liquid ski wax? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing greasy drops of ski ointment onto the block (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

How to smear skis with liquid ski wax? Apply ski wax in rather greasy strokes to the last of the ski and then evenly spread the wax over the ski with a scraper. After rubbing with a scraper, you should get a layer of ointment about a millimeter thick. After this, the skis must be taken outside for 3 to 5 minutes and the ointment is frozen. If you leave a warm room and immediately get on your skis, you can peel off the ointment at the first steps in hard snow.

And now about why you have to fiddle a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski ointments, which in their consistency are very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, the skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper, and then with a wash. The second option is to pack the skis in a case, bring them home and clean them there. And yet, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after the end of the workout - there are fewer soiled clothes and sticky hands, and the ski bag does not get dirty from the inside. The obligatory need to clean the skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually the spring sun, a wonderful ski track and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

Another example of an economical ski wax set - even cheaper than the Gunde set and even more versatile. As you can see, there is no purple ointment in this set, and the rubbing cork is connected here with a metal scraper-cycle. With such a scraper it is convenient to clean sticky ice or snow from skis.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive waist bag (skiers say “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a spray bottle with a wash. This is very a good option in one fell swoop to solve all your problems with ski lubrication for the next few years, so be sure to use it if possible.

A very good, slightly more “advanced” set of ointments and accessories for lubricating skis from Swix. In addition to three ointments, natural cork and a plastic scraper, it also contains a very convenient cosmetic bag with a zipper. In such a bag, ointments will never stain your clothes, and it will be much more difficult for them to get lost among your luggage.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly discourage you from trespassing. Trust me modern plastic skis glide perfectly on the snow without any special treatment. This glide is enough for your eyes for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather. Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

BULIVIF 13-02-2015 15:33

We bought skis Okhotnik wood-plastic, on the first outing they showed themselves not in better side, give back, and from the hill to stop you have to fall on your ass. Who can tell what to do with them? Except for the camouflage!

Gray Samara 14-02-2015 11:49

heel, toe (30-40 cm each) ski ointment. From the hill or take one off or on the ass.

kainop 14-02-2015 19:57

quote: Originally posted by BULIVIF:

Except for the camouflage!

Miracles don't happen, do they? An artificial self-adhesive skin will help you (narrow 5-8 cm).

mrmkor 16-02-2015 15:23

Plastic ones are good for thaws. I have a tree, they slide predictably)

mrmkor 16-02-2015 15:25

Save yourself with ointments.

AMO 01-03-2015 09:57

alexserg 03-03-2015 01:04

Snowshoes must be taken or learn to walk / ride normally

Not always. I am proficient in both alpine and cross-country skiing. Ski touring and racing on wooded unprepared slopes is one of the favorite hobbies. For a long time I tried to adapt something modern for hunting purposes. I tried different skis, different bindings, different artificial skins. As a result, I use wooden ones with natural skins. A small formality - the skis must be made by the Master. Of the serial, like, products of the Poskryakovs, they say nothing. I haven't tried their skinny skis myself, I won't lie. If the terrain is flat, then glue an artificial skin between the valleys and use it. If there are uneven terrain - it's easier to spit or regard hunting as a sport) snowshoes are an interesting product, but in the forests of the west. Siberia is almost indispensable.

AMO 03-03-2015 08:38

quote: but in the forests Siberia is almost indispensable.

p.s I teach anyone (from a 4.5-year-old child to a 67-year-old pensioner) to go down from the mountain 2500m to skiing on one's own.

alexserg 03-03-2015 11:24

quote: Originally posted by AMO:

why?

Probably the density of the snow is not the same. Somewhere at home lie TSL Escape 227. Maximum allowable weight walker 130kg. I'm with a backpack of less than 100, but failed. Generally spat)

alexserg 03-03-2015 11:28

quote: Originally posted by AMO:

if you stand on skis so confidently, what's the problem with moving on oh. cross country skiing? or I misunderstood something?

no problem) with hunting skis no problem) with plastic ones there are problems in the form of recoil. And if the forest is heavily cluttered, the bindings should allow you to quickly pull out your leg

Plastic skis today are much more popular than wooden ones, they are more comfortable and glide better, but, like wooden ones, they need lubrication. If this Sports Equipment do not lubricate, then there will not be a smooth and easy move, so in this article we will talk about how to properly lubricate plastic ones.

Do plastic skis need to be lubricated?

People who have just started skiing do not yet know about many of the intricacies of caring for this sports equipment, and, of course, most beginners do not understand why skis should be lubricated at all.

This procedure is simply necessary, because lubricated skis glide much better, snow does not stick to them, and the shelf life of the skis increases from this, because the lubricant protects the sliding surface.

In order to process skis, as a rule, they use a hard brush, a special iron, a plastic scraper and paraffin-based lubricants, which come in several types:

1. Liquid lubricants. As a rule, this lubricant is applied in a thin layer, then the skis are dried and their surface is carefully polished. The advantage of this type of ointment is that it has a very high coefficient of adhesion with snow.
2. Solid lubricants. This type of ointment should only be applied to a preheated ski surface, for this a special iron is used (many skillfully use old irons with heavy thick soles).
3. Sprays and gels. Usually this form of ointment is used professional athletes because it requires certain skills in applying to the ski surface.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

To cope well with this task, you should consider some rules:

1. Skis must be cleaned and dried before being lubricated.
2. If you have opted for a solid type lubricant, then it should be applied in several layers, with each layer must be rubbed separately and very carefully, and the last layer should be applied outdoors. Then the skis must be cooled for 20-30 minutes.
3. If your style of skiing is classic, then you need to lubricate the back or front of the skis.
4. Moisture should not get into the lubricant, so close the jar tightly, otherwise such an ointment will not be of any use.

How to lubricate new plastic skis?

In order for your skis to serve you for a long time and meet your requirements, they need proper care. If you purchased this sports equipment, then before you go out into the snow you need to lubricate them.