What can you make a bike out of? Making a bicycle with your own hands

Having a bike is cool and inexpensive: the prices for new budget models do not bite, the choice is great in stores and on the Internet is huge. But much more interesting would be a bicycle of his own production, personally patented.

A homemade bicycle is popular among fans of the process of assembling and disassembling mechanisms. Is it possible to create your bike from scratch, with only improvised means? Yes, it’s true, it’s impossible to make components such as a wheel, carriage assembly and transmission stars on your own.

It turns out that it is completely impossible to make a bicycle with your own hands. Of course, you will have to accept that it will not work to create a bike completely from scratch, but it is quite possible to make the most important thing - the frame. What is the first thing you need to assemble a product? That's right, simulate it on paper.

Creating a drawing for a bicycle frame

To make the correct drawing yourself, you will have to try for a long time, since you must adhere to the reference data on the length and diameter of the pipes. And you also need to decide on the type of bike.

It’s easier to go the other way - take ready-made drawings. For example, let's take a drawing of a diamond-shaped road bike frame. The figure shows that the seat tube and front (glass) pipes must be strictly parallel to each other, and the lower main pipe and the lower feather of the rear triangle must be spread at the same angle relative to the seat tube.

The lower and upper main tubes are fixed at one end to the head tube, and at the other end to the seatpost. The top tube can be positioned horizontally or at an angle, depending on the model. In our case, it is horizontal.

Singlespeed Closed Frame Image

Taking into account all sizes and angles, you should get such a design as on paper. The next steps after studying the drawing are cutting and welding pipes.

Assembling a bicycle frame: welding pipes, pressing the fork, making seats for the wheels

To make a homemade frame, you will need 7 pipes of the required sizes. Of these, 2 are short for the bottom bracket and head tube, four are medium for the rear stays and long for the main seatpost. The supporting structure of a simple road bike is made of steel alloys, so we select the material accordingly. Pipes must be free of damage and rust. Further, using spot welding, the parts are connected.

Manufacturing sequence:

1. The lower main tube is welded to the bottom bracket shell.
2. The down tube attaches to the lower edge of the steering front tube. The position of the helmsman is perpendicular to the bottom bracket.
3. Parallel to the head tube, a seat tube is welded to the glass at the required angle to the down tube.
4. Welding the seat and front tubes of the main upper.
5. The front part is ready, then the lower feathers are welded to the glass of the carriage at a slight angle to each other. The angle to the seat tube is exactly the same as the main down tube.
6. Joining the top end of the seat tube and the edge of the chainstays. We get the top feathers, the welding of the structure is completed.

Welded joints of feathers and carriage glass

The next stage is the manufacture and pressing of the fork in the front of the frame. The whole process comes down to welding three metal pipes and making special cones for pressing. The length of the fork should be such that the level of the lower end coincides with the point of the stays on the rear triangle of the welded frame.

A homemade fork is an energy-intensive option, it is better to make it in the image and likeness of an existing one or buy a ready-made one for a made frame.

Pressing is done in horizontal position:

1. Installation of bearings.
2. Fixation of cones on balls.
3. Cape washer on the fork stem.
4. Tightening the locknut.

The steering wheel is installed in the fork housing. It can be made from improvised means, the same metal pipes, and a special threaded lock can be screwed on, but it is better to buy it separately. It turns out that everything except the frame will have to be bought and follow the standard rule of building a bike out of the box? Almost. After all, you still need to weld dropouts under rear wheel and you have to do it by hand. And if the fork is homemade, seats are also made under the front wheel.

So, dropouts are made according to the scheme:

1. Cut out small metal plates, but so that they can be well welded to the frame pipes.
2. Using a jigsaw, make holes in the plates, the dimensions of which must correspond to the diameter of the wheel axle and fixing nuts.
3. With the side opposite the hole, the part is carefully welded to the frame.

Both mounting holes must be placed at exactly the same level, otherwise the wheel will not sit on the dropouts. And one more thing: the distance between the mounting holes must, at least, correspond to the tightening of the nuts "to the stop". In other words, the wheel should not fall off the dropouts at least with maximum twist.

So the holes of the dropouts should match along the axis

Installing the handlebar, saddle, bottom bracket and wheels

To get a full-fledged bike, you need to put all the working units listed in the title on a homemade skeleton. The most difficult stage will be the installation of the carriage and the crank-pedal system.

The handlebar is inserted into the fork body and is firmly fixed with a bolt on the top. Before installation, it is recommended to lightly lubricate the inner walls of the fork, as well as accurately set the position of the steering wheel - the handles are strictly perpendicular to the course of the bicycle. Twisting can bring down the direct position of the steering wheel. It's not scary, it's enough to correct the position with one hand, holding the frame firmly with the other.

It is inserted into a vertical pipe and fixed with a metal clamp with a nut. saddle height road bike adjusted to handlebar height.

The next stage is in a glass. The carriage is a complex transmission unit that, when installed, will require a special tool - squeeze. All work on the assembly of parts is carried out in a strictly specified order.

Tool for shooting and tightening connecting rods

And finally, inserting the wheels into the seats. Remember that homemade dropouts must be precisely agreed in advance before manufacturing, otherwise they will have to be cut off, made and welded on again. Wheel installation sequence:

1. Put the chain on the drive and driven star.
2. Insert the rear wheel into the dropouts.
3. Install a metal clamp on the lower chainstay of the bicycle, fasten the brake lock to it.
4. Tighten wheel nuts.
5. Install the front wheel into the seats, tighten until it stops.

When tightening, it is better to use a dynamometer to obtain accurate tightening torques and geometric integrity. For homemade design this is especially important.

As you can see, homemade for a bike is a very conditional concept. It is still realistic to make the supporting structure yourself, but the rest of the components will have to be bought. Nevertheless, even such a bike deserves the title of exclusive: it is made and assembled by yourself. The completion of the work will be a thorough running-in of your offspring, identifying and correcting shortcomings.

Each cyclist should be able to independently troubleshoot various problems, as well as maintain their bike. If you don’t have the right tool from the standard set at hand, simple home-made devices that are easy to make with your own hands at home will help.

Homemade key for bicycle spokes

If the geometry of rotation of the wheels of the bicycle is violated (the “eights” appeared), it is better to solve the problem here and now, without postponing until better times. To eliminate the beating of the wheels, you just need to tighten (or, conversely, slightly loosen) the spokes. And this is easy to do with a special key. If the factory one is lost, we make a homemade one.

We take a compression nut, which is used for the installation of water pipes, and with the help of a grinder we make cuts of the required width (the dimensions must first be removed with a caliper). We remove burrs on sandpaper. Works literally for 2-3 minutes.

"Cover" to protect the pen frame

When driving fast off-road or riding on bumpy roads, which in Russia are “at least a dime a dozen”, the chain hits hard on the chainstay of the bike - the part of the frame under the chain. In addition to the fact that an unpleasant loud clang of metal is heard during movement, the paint also peels off because of this, scratches appear, and there it is not far from corrosion.

To protect your bike chainstay from contact with the chain, you can make a simple fabric case with Velcro for a quick and secure fit. Alternatively, you can simply wind a thick rope around the frame.

Bike chain cleaning tool

In your new project I want to show how regular bike Can do it yourself build something extraordinary. The bike will easily transform while riding from a regular bike to a bike with a high handlebar and seat (and vice versa)!

The transforming bike is made of full-suspension mountain bike and a set of gas shock absorbers. The spring on the mountain bike was removed to allow the bike to spin freely; the fork and rear triangle of the bike have been lengthened. The gas shocks expand when the bike is in a high position and compress when it returns to a low position.

The general steps for building this type of bike are described below. Special materials and their dimensions will vary depending on the materials available, the type of bike and the body type of the rider.

Step #1: Remove the components from the bike

Bicycle components are removed before cutting and welding.
The connecting rod is removed using a special puller.
For other parts of the structure, standard tools are used (cutters, adjustable wrench, socket / hex keys).
The shock absorbers also need to be removed from the fork.

Step #2: Cutting the Bike

The bike is cut behind the bottom bracket. Use a whetstone to clean up the cut points before welding on the extension piece.

Step #3: Extending the Back Triangle

To lengthen the rear triangle, you can use a piece of square steel pipe about 27 cm long.

Step #4: Fork Extension

To extend the fork, I used two pieces of steel pipe 60 cm long.

Step #5: Which gas shocks to use?

The distances between potential mounting points on the bike were initially measured to calculate the possible expansion and contraction lengths for gas shock absorbers. The wheels and seat have been remounted to make the measurement process easier, and the cranks and pedals have also been remounted to ensure they won't make contact with the shocks in any position.
Next, gas shock absorbers were used, the length of which in the expanded state is 94 cm, and in the compressed state 51 cm.

Step #6: How Much Damping Force Do Gas Shocks Use?

The gas shock absorbers used on the bike use a force of 41 kg. With a cyclist weighing 55 kg, the total depreciation force will be at the level of 66%. This is great when riding slowly, but when riding fast over small bumps and potholes in the road, it will compress the bike a little. Locking shock absorbers or higher damping force can help with this problem.

Step #7: Installing the Gas Springs

The upper end of the gas shock absorbers is attached to the center of the triangular part of the bicycle frame near the seat. Gas shock absorbers are supplied with metal flare fittings and 8mm threaded ball studs. An 8mm union nut is welded onto a 6mm diameter steel tube to fit into the triangle, and the resulting structure is then welded to the bike.
The lower end of the gas shock absorbers is attached to a similar steel plate, which is attached to the bike's rear frame mounting holes with screws.

Step #8: Bike Assembly: Chain

The derailleurs were not set back so the bike only has one speed. The rear derailleur was used as stretching device chains, and a small piece of wire was used to lock it in place. Two new chains were connected together to make one big chain.

Step #9: Bike Assembly: Brakes

I used new 2 meter brake cables; the rear cable used existing cable deflectors and tie-downs to hold it in place. The front brake cable used a single tie to hold it in place.

Step #10: Finishing the Project

The bike has been cleaned and repainted; the bike trial pedal was installed on the left side as a step to get on the bike comfortably.

Now you can hit the road on an unusual transforming bike!

From this instruction you will learn how to make a chopper bike with your own hands and at the same time quite inexpensively.

When assembling a homemade chopper, I tried to use as many components as possible from old bikes and unnecessary materials.

I used an old 25 year old Wisp Raleigh women's racing bike as the basis for a homemade chopper. In the end, I turned it into a very good cruiser.

What you need to assemble a homemade chopper:

• Donor bike.
• Welding machine.
  I used a Clarke 105EN welder.
• Steel pipes for the fork.
  Must be strong enough not to bend under heavy loads.
• Steel tubes to lengthen the frame after it has been cut.
  It is easier to weld two pipes of different diameters than two pipes of the same diameter, and besides, the construction of pipes of the same diameter is less strong. Therefore, the diameter of the pipes must be either slightly smaller than the frame pipes (so that they can be inserted inside the cut pipes), or larger (so that the frame pipes can be inserted into them). Choose pipes of the same diameter only if you are a welding professional.
• Several sheets of steel.
  I used 1.4 mm thick steel sheets, which are great for cruiser plates.
• New chains.
  After increasing the frame size, a much larger chain will be required. Buy two inexpensive chains and chain them together.
• Pipe bending machine.
  This is useful if you want to significantly change the frame angles without cutting the extension tubes at an angle.

So, let's get to work. Let's start assembling the chopper by making the fork.

Step 2: Making the chopper fork.

First we need to get a suitable fork.

First you need:

1. Dismantle the front of the bike - remove the handlebar, stem, steering column and unscrew the fork.
2. Position the bike so that when riding steering column was at the optimum height. At this stage, don't worry about the corners. Measure the required fork length.
   As you can see from the photo, I set the bike on the bench at about the required height and measured the distance from the top of the steering column to the front wheel axle. It came out about 1.22 meters. A decent size - we should get a long bike.
   I was lucky - I found where you can buy good pipes - I bought a steel pipe 2.44 meters long for only $ 4.
3. Then, using an angle grinder, cut the pipe in half. Next, stand two pipes vertically and grind their ends with a grinder so that they become the same size (see photo above).

Step 3: Making dropouts for the fork.

At this stage, the fork for our homemade chopper is just two tubes. In this state, there is no way to install a wheel on it, so we have to do a couple of dropouts.

The photo above shows what we should get.

Fork dropouts must be strong. To make them, I used several steel plates about 3 mm thick, which fit perfectly.

Attach the dropouts from the fork of the bike to the steel plate as shown in the photo above. Mark the outlines along which you can cut out the dropouts for the chopper fork.

Using an angle grinder, cut out two blanks of dropouts from steel.

Since the angle grinder (shown in the photo above) does not allow you to cut parts with the required accuracy, the dropouts of the fork will differ slightly in size. I clamped the dropouts of the fork in a vise and trimmed the edges on the grinder.

The photo shows the dropouts after grinding. How smoother surface the better the contact with the wheel.

Clamp the two pieces together as shown in the photo above and cut out the axle sockets. Using this method, you will be sure that with an angle grinder you can cut two identical sockets. Don't rush - don't cut the socket too big so your chopper wheel won't pop out of the dropouts later. It is necessary to carve a socket of such a size that the wheel axle sits tightly enough in it. Gradually fit the wheel axle to the seat until it fits perfectly. It is necessary to achieve an exact match without backlash, as I did (look at the photos below).

Next, weld the dropouts to the fork. To keep the dropout in the fork, I used a magnetic holder. When I welded the dropouts, I made a mistake - I placed them right in the center of the pipe, although they should have been welded closer to one of the edges. I only noticed my mistake during a test ride when the wheel spokes began to scrape across inside fork pipes. Luckily I had another wheel that fit better, but anyway, please note my mistake.

Lightly weld the dropouts to the fork as shown in the photo above. Check if they are installed correctly. When you are sure everything is good, weld the dropouts securely. The time spent earlier on making smooth edges should now pay off handsomely.

Step 4: Making the fork top.

So, we already have a fork in the form of two pipes with dropouts welded to them.

To equip with thread upper part forks, we need a few nuts, bolts and washers. I bought a pack of M10 bolts, nuts and some cheap M10 washers (10mm diameter). This kit is quite inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store.

Assemble the bolt, washer and nut. Weld each face of the nut to the washer.

Remove the bolt so that only the nut with the welded washer remains.

Finally, weld the washer to the nut in the manner shown in the photo above. Now you have a strong enough mount on the top of the fork that we can screw the bolt into.

Step 5: Do-it-yourself chopper fork (the first stage of manufacturing).

To summarize, we have two pipes with dropouts welded on one side and a nut welded on the other.

We continue to manufacture a fork for a homemade cruiser.

Cut off the legs of the fork from the old bike. Try to make the base as flat as possible.

Using a piece of cardboard as a template, draw a semicircle around the tubes of the new fork as shown in the photo above. Outline the shape of the crown for the new fork with a marker. Using an angle grinder, cut the crown along the traced outline. Do not rush - it is very important to achieve the most correct form.

Attach the wheel to the dropouts. This will set the required fork width. Next, position the crown stem between the fork tubes. If at the previous stages you did everything carefully, then the stock with the crown will fall exactly into place. Using another piece of cardboard, mark and cut out three holes for the three pipes to pass through. This will give us a cardboard template that we will use to make the base plate and the top plate. Trim the cardboard so that it has a nice, neat shape.

We make the base plate. Using the cardboard template, cut out the sheet steel plate. For this purpose, I used a sheet of steel 1.4 mm thick, on which I marked two external holes (through which the legs of the fork go). Using an angle grinder, cut the steel sheet as shown in the photo above to make a base plate. Weld the base plate to the fork crown. Work carefully, try not to let the particles of molten metal get on the bearing race!

Next, we need to make a takeaway. You can simply cut off the top of the existing stem. I decided to make a stem from scratch, as I already had a steel pipe that perfectly matched the inside diameter of the fork stem.

Using an angle grinder, cut one end of the pipe at a 45 degree angle as shown in the photo above.

Shorten the tube as shown in the photo above to fit the stem bolt and wedge. Everything, the manufacture of a homemade takeaway is finished. You can skip these steps if you just cut off the top from the existing stem.

Install the new stem onto the fork stem as shown in the photo above. Place the stem and crown again between the legs of the fork. Ask someone to help you keep everything together. I just fastened all the components with a belt. The top head tube nuts should be about one inch below the top of the fork.

If you did everything right and centered the base plate well, then weld it to the fork.

Step 6: Do-it-yourself chopper fork (second stage of production).

So, we have two fork tubes welded to the stem and crown. Next, we need to make the top plate with which we will connect everything together.

To cut the required shape from a sheet of steel, we need a previously made cardboard template. Mark the centers of the two legs of the forks and the stem bolt on the steel sheet. Since I used bolts with a diameter of 10 mm, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 15 mm in the center of the fork and a hole with a diameter of about 10 mm for the stem bolt. It does not matter if the hole diameter is larger than the diameter of the bolts, since we will still use washers during assembly.

Drilled top plate.

A plate bolted to the top of the fork. Ignore the clip that holds the bolt. We'll talk about him later.

So - the fork is ready. The tubes are welded to the base plate, which is in turn welded to the fork crown. We made the top plate and fixed it securely with bolts.

Homemade chopper with plug installed. The fork looks good, but to be able to ride the bike, we will have to seriously modify the frame, which we will do on next step.

Step 7: DIY chopper frame (first assembly step).

First, think carefully about what you are going to do with the frame. For a long time I could not decide what I could turn my frame into, but in the end I got a good frame for a chopper.

Frame before cutting (inverted).

After trimming, the bottom bracket is closer to the front of the bike. Next we need to lengthen the frame.

The photo above is shown after cropping. Now there is no way back. I want to keep the double top tube, which would look great on a homemade chopper. So I cut it as close to the rear hub as possible.

The next step is to make a layout of the new frame design. It is very important to install the wheels in order to measure the required frame height. To create this layout, I propped up the bottom bracket and lengthened the frame with some thin tubes. I noticed that the twin top tube is too low, so I had to bend the top tube a bit to get the saddle to the right height. If you accidentally break the top tube, for example, split at the weld, then you will have to use welding to repair. I actually accidentally broke the frame and solved this problem with welding.

I was completely satisfied with the shape and construction of the new frame, so the next step was to lengthen the frame by installing two steel pipes in between the bottom bracket and two pipes running down from the seat tube.

To properly cut the two pipes, I had to use measurements from the layout. Since the angle of the down tube was changed, a slight bend had to be created next to the bottom bracket. To do this, I had to use a pipe bending machine. The photo above clearly shows why the bend was needed.

At this stage, the seat tube is not attached to anything - it just dangles. Here we are going to deal with it further - we will fix its lower part.

Using a piece of cardboard as a template, I made a sheet steel plate which I placed under the seat tube and welded the plate to the top of the horizontal tubes. In this way, I increased the strength of the connection of the two new pipes to the rear pipes. Then I welded the seat tube to the plate.

Now let's turn our attention to the top tube. Again, the top tube is just dangling - it's not attached to anything yet.

I made another plate out of sheet steel. This is not shown in the photo, but I used an angle grinder to make a socket in the seat tube, into which I inserted a steel plate and then I welded it to the seat tube. In this way, I increased the strength of the joint and reduced the load on the weld. I then welded the top two tubes to the steel plate.

Step 8: Do-it-yourself chopper frame (second assembly step).

The next step is to attach another steel tube between the bottom bracket and the top tube. This will change the location of the seat tube, which is now directed towards the rear of the frame.

The photo above shows how, using a cardboard template, I made a plate from a sheet of steel and welded it to a new steel pipe. It took only a few attempts to get the right angle, so try to weld only lightly so that in the future it will be easier to break, grind and re-weld if something happens.

Determine the correct length of the pipe as accurately as possible so that it does not touch the carriage axle if it is too long. Also make sure that the tube goes into the carriage, but not too far.

Fully welded frame for homemade chopper.

Step 9: Making the Chopper Saddle

I'm going to take full advantage of having a dual top tube and put a saddle on it.

The saddle will be a simple construction of boards, foam and leather.

I bolted two boards together and drilled holes in the wood to the plate below. I fixed the saddle well with bolts and nuts.

Using a heavy-duty construction stapler, I attached the foam to the wood.

Using a stapler, I attached the leather to the saddle.

Step 10: DIY chopper wheel.

The next step is to install the steering wheel.

The steering wheel can be installed in three different ways:

1. Use an existing steering wheel.
   In my case, it was, which was not suitable for installation on a chopper.
2. Make your own steering wheel.
   If you have steel pipes, then you can make a handlebar with a pipe bender or by cutting and welding pipes into the required shape.
3. Use a different steering wheel.
   I found some old steering wheels, which I decided to use.

First we need to make a clamp.

I used a removable lock from a donor saddle.

The photo above shows the saddle mount mounted on the handlebar. It turned out pretty well, so we will use this design.

Weld the saddle clamps to the top plate.

Weld the clamp from the saddle to the top plate and install the handlebar into the mount.

We now have a fully adjustable handlebar mount.

Step 11: Brakes for the homemade chopper.

If you're going to use the same wheels that came with your bike, you shouldn't have any problems at this stage.

I wasn't happy with the 27" wheels that came with the bike, so I decided to switch to the more stable 26" wheels for the . At the same time, I had to change the brake suspension a little.

When welding, always cover with a wet cloth so as not to damage it with the welding machine.

I figured out where to install the caliper brake and welded a plate onto the rear triangle stays. Please note that the mounting hole is not centered, which was due to errors in the calculation of the dimensions of my frame.

Before final welding, check the correct installation and normal operation of the caliper brake.

Welded plate and installed caliper brake.

I used a spare brake lever that I took from another bike.

Step 12: Chopper assembly and testing.

Build your bike and take it for a test ride.

I decided to abandon the existing system and turn the bike into a .

I bought a single speed adapter online for $24 that just replaced the existing gearshift system.

Since the bike is now much longer, I had to purchase two inexpensive chains ($2 each) and chain them together.

Photo of a homemade chopper.

Step 13: Finishing up the chopper.

Disassemble the bike. Using a sander and a sanding disc, clean the bike of spatter and welding drips.

Paint the frame and fork. At the same time, be careful - protect the bearing rings and all threaded places from paint. To avoid paint streaks, apply paint in several thin layers.

Step 14: Additional changes to the chopper design.

I got a bit bored with the bike so I decided to make some changes.

I disassembled the bike and cut off the back.

Step 15: Aligning the back.

I cut off the back of a small mountain bike.

It was from a full suspension bike, so I used an angle grinder to sand down the extra frame parts.

Step 16: Installing lower extension pipes.

I cut two pipes and welded them on to lengthen the frame.

Step 17: Homemade chopper is ready.

I welded two more long pipes on top. Then I painted and assembled the bike.

Now the rear wheel is equipped with a foot brake, so I no longer need the old rear brake, cables and levers.

I hope you found this DIY chopper assembly tutorial helpful!

With the onset of warm weather, cycling is becoming more and more relevant. fresh air. It's nice to watch when on a day off whole families ride their iron friends around park area and bike paths. promotes health, general physical development and is extremely useful, even if it is not intense sports training.

The variety of bicycle transport on the modern market is very large and can satisfy the most demanding customer, both in terms of functionality and cost. Moreover, the price of individual copies can reach several thousand dollars. There are a wide variety of bicycles various types, for example: mountain, track, sports, city. separate group stand homemade bikes. They are distinguished from each other by various parameters of mass, design, wheel sizes, number of speeds, etc.

Buying a bike is not required.

An alternative to buying a bicycle can be its manufacture with my own hands. Homemade bicycles are very common and are distinguished by originality. But to implement such an idea, you should be patient and have certain professional skills and tools. And it is best to have access to a workshop equipped with the necessary tool base and equipment. Assembling homemade bicycles from ready-made parts will not be difficult, anyone can do it.

How to make a bike?

In order to collect you need detailed drawing. You can draw it yourself, but it is best to use ready-made options, which, if desired, will not be difficult to find.

The use of the finished drawing will avoid possible errors when assembling your vehicle. It will be impossible to ride a bicycle made according to a technically incorrect drawing. In addition, with an incorrectly calculated balance of elements, the load on some parts and assemblies will be increased, which can lead to their accelerated wear. And soon the most critical moment may come when the vehicle fails or falls apart. There is a very high risk of injury and injury if a breakdown occurs at the time of direct use of the bike.

Shopping is indispensable

It should be understood that some mechanisms, such as chain and wheels, cannot be made at home, and even in a workshop. In any case, they will have to be purchased ready-made. In this case, it is worth paying attention to the material from which the wheel rim and spokes are made. The tire must be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the bicycle. If you plan to drive in calm urban conditions, then ordinary city-type tires will do. If aggressive driving or operation in rough terrain is planned, then tires with reinforced tread will be needed to improve the adhesion of the wheel to the ground. Very popular and original are currently homemade tricycles. Just before assembling the bike, you should carefully study the drawing and determine the exact sequence of actions.

The stronger the metal, the more durable the bike

For the production of the frame, you will need tubes of various diameters made of durable metal. It will not be superfluous if the metal surface is treated with an anti-corrosion compound. This will extend the life of the bike.

According to the drawing, it is necessary to make all the elements of the frame and connect them together using After the frame is ready, it should be checked for defects and, if necessary, finalized all the nuances.

When making a fork, you will need to use special equipment for pressing. You can use for these purposes devices and tools designed for forging metal. When the fork elements and the frame are almost ready, they need to drill all the necessary holes for attaching the wheels, sprockets and pedals.

Next, you need to make a handlebar, saddle and pedals. If these parts are left from then they can be repaired or simply brought back to normal if they are in good condition. technical condition. The chain, wheels and brakes must also be checked for serviceability and repaired if necessary. Problems can arise due to leaky spokes, lack of lubrication on the brake mechanism, and poor quality bicycle chain links.

Homemade bicycles, or rather, parts of them, can be painted after coating with a primer. Even the thinnest layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion. This will keep appearance parts in good condition.

Assembly and running

If all the components are prepared, then you can mount them on the frame for a preliminary assessment of the technical suitability of the assembled vehicle. The first thing you should pay attention to is the quality and directness of the bike, the ease of pedaling, the functionality of the brakes and other less significant nuances.

If the ride does not satisfy or is impossible without some effort, then you need to sort out the existing inconsistencies, correct them and conduct regular tests. If all parts and components are in good condition, the bike should be completely disassembled for painting.

Buy and collect

If there is no particular desire to resort to such a complex option, then it is easier to purchase ready-made components and assemble bicycles with your own hands, adapting them to your needs and wishes. You can assemble a lightweight version using a titanium or cheaper aluminum frame. It can be equipped with any components of the appropriate quality and value. It is possible to construct a self-made version of such a transport will be the most convenient and practical. If any node or component has failed or simply ceased to suit its characteristics, then it can be replaced with a new one without any problems.

It is worth remembering that the frequent use of a bicycle instead of a car not only has a positive effect on health, but also improves the environmental situation.