Tapered straight stem. How to install a fork with a conical stem in a regular glass? What to think about before buying a new fork

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The material was prepared on the basis of an article by experts from the BikeRadar portal.

Currently, a large number of forks are presented on the bicycle market, differing primarily in the amount of travel, the ability to handle strong and weak shocks, stiffness and weight. And we have not even touched on the issue of price, which can vary from several thousand rubles to several tens of thousands.

The acquisition cost is not small, so it is especially important to understand what you should pay attention to in the first place.

What should you think about before buying a new fork?

And actually the very first question when choosing a fork: how much travel do you need. All other things being equal, the longer the travel, the softer the fork will be able to handle shocks. However, long forks, in turn, can already begin to have problems with torsional stiffness.

Changing the fork travel by 10mm will move about 1 degree, which in turn will affect the stability and handling of the bike. Always check the maximum fork travel recommended by the manufacturer for your frame. Installing a longer travel fork than it should be will put extra stress on the frame and any damage will not be covered by the warranty. When replacing a fork, it is better to choose with the same stroke as the model installed on the bike by the manufacturer.

It should also be borne in mind that some models of forks provide the ability to adjust the amount of travel. As a rule, in such forks there are several travel options available, allowing you to adjust the behavior of the bike to your preferences, or two extreme options (maximum and minimum travel).

The photo above shows a fork. Suntour Axon for cross-country with carbon pants and a gorilla.

Budget

Next on the priority list when choosing a new fork is the budget available to purchase. Unfortunately, there aren't many forks on the market today that offer soft performance and light weight for a reasonable price. Budget models tend to weigh quite a lot and also provide less control in large impacts or a series of small bumps due to the use of simpler dampers.

If we talk about forks, the cost is up to 15,000 rubles, then as the price increases, you will see an equally real difference in the work of the forks. With budgets over 15,000 rubles. the choice should be approached already based solely on sports ambitions, as well as the level at which you want to ride a bike and / or perform in competitions. However, even budget models for last years began to work much better and weigh less than before.

Control

If you are looking at forks with longer travel (longer than 120mm), then you need to understand that the longer the travel, the less torsional stiffness of the fork design and the feeling of control. Damping quality comes to the fore in such forks. On such a fork, it will be useful to have at least a rebound adjustment, which is responsible for how quickly the fork returns to its original position after it has been deployed. Some advanced forks also have compression adjustment, which controls how the fork handles large and small obstacles.

Compression adjustment on some models can be presented at 2 levels: low-speed compression (responsible for the behavior of the fork during braking, cornering and pedaling) and high-speed (responsible for the work of the fork on landings after big jumps and during sharp strong blows). However, these settings will only be useful if you already have a decent cycling experience and understand what to expect from them.

If you're willing to spend hours tweaking and testing your bike's suspension until you're convinced it's perfect, then chasing the full range of settings definitely makes sense. If you want to put the fork 1 time and not think about anything else and not worry, then there is no point in looking for the most expensive and technically complex fork.

Strength/weight

When choosing a new fork, in addition to the amount of travel and the number of adjustments you want, you also need to decide what margin of safety you need. After all, taking a fork that is too extreme with a long travel, or a dirt jumping fork with 100 mm travel, you will just ride daily. excess weight which you will never benefit from. A lighter fork with stiffer travel is ideal for cross-country and steep climbs, while a long-travel “plush” model is best suited for lovers of long descents. Once again, the fork should be selected based on the capabilities of the frame (here you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations) and your sporting ambitions.

Compatibility

Many modern fork models already use a tapered stem (1.125" top tube diameter, 1.5" bottom tube diameter). This feature should be taken into account when choosing, because. a fork with a tapered stem cannot be installed in a frame with a classic straight head tube, but vice versa - it can. You also need to pay attention to the standard of dropouts (that part of the fork in which the wheel is fixed): 9 mm eccentric, 15 mm hollow axle, 20 mm hollow axle.

Fork anatomy

Crown Most modern bikes have single crown forks. However, long-travel downhill models are usually produced with a double crown to increase the torsional stiffness of the structure.

Stock- This top part fork (pipe), which is inserted into the head tube and fixed with a stem and an anchor. Most of the fork stems are aluminum, but the most expensive racing versions can also be found in carbon fiber. Most of the new forks available today are available in both tapered (more stiff) and straight steerer configurations, so buyers can easily find the right model for their frame.

Spring- it can be presented both in the form of a classic steel spring in one of the legs of the fork, and in the form of an "air spring" (chamber with air under pressure). Air versions - they are lightweight and easy to adjust, but the cost of such forks is higher. If we talk about a metal spring, then it is cheaper to manufacture, heavier, but at the same time it shows excellent efficiency in processing small irregularities. Some forks even use combinations of air and metal springs, but these days it's much more common to see a fork with 1 type of spring.

Legs and pants These are the moving parts of the fork. In one of the legs, as a rule, there is an air or steel spring, and in the other - oil. Fork legs have been getting thicker lately, especially on long-travel and extreme versions. This allows you to get more torsional rigidity. Also, depending on the manufacturer and model of the fork, the coating of the legs varies (which allows them to move inside the pants with minimal friction. There are special seals at the junction of the legs and pants that prevent dirt from entering the fork.

Damper- an important element that controls the course of the fork (speed and smoothness of operation). It is a kind of filter with a different combination of holes and cavities through which oil passes. Damping adjustment, which was already discussed above in this article, occurs just by changing the width of the holes and, as a result, the speed of oil passing through them. The characteristics of the fork damper operation are determined by the settings for compression (the response of the fork to impact) and rebound (the speed at which the fork returns after it has been released to its original position). The high-speed compression adjustment is responsible for handling large obstacles or landings after high drops and jumps. Low-speed compression adjustment helps tune the fork for optimal cornering, minimal pedaling bounce, and compensation for braking stress. Generally, the number of adjustments available varies by fork level and manufacturer. Thus, on budget models, you will most likely find preload and rebound adjustments.

Axis- currently the forks are available with eccentrics and hollow axles with a diameter of 15 or 20 mm. The last two types significantly increase the torsional rigidity of the fork and, as a result, the accuracy of bicycle control. In addition, thick hollow axles are safer to operate than eccentrics. But the problem is that such forks and the corresponding wheels for them are much more expensive than analogues on eccentrics.

Posted on , May 8, 2017

The most important part of a bicycle responsible for the safe control of a two-wheeled vehicle is the steering assembly. Despite the fact that in turns and direct taxiing, the rider holds only the crossbar of the steering wheel, the main role in the smoothness of rotation and reliability of the mechanism is given to the steering column, it is she who performs the mechanical work invisible to the eye, and all the characteristics of the bicycle steering depend on the quality of its components. . Therefore, in this article we will consider a bunch steering glass (headtube) bike and steering column (headset), because together they make it possible to set any bike in the right direction.

Bicycle frame head tube

The basis of the steering mechanism of a bicycle begins, of course, with, or rather with its special front part under the well-established name "steer glass" or "steering well". Usually this part of the frame is a short tube of a certain diameter in the front of the frame, where the fork stem is subsequently placed. There are many varieties of steering cups (as well as bicycle frames themselves) and it is important to note that all the standards used NOT are interchangeable, so be sure to find out the type and diameter of the holes in the head tube of a particular frame in order to correctly select a compatible steering column for it.

The form can be divided into the following two type of steering cups of the frame:

These two types of head cup shapes, in turn, are further subdivided into three type depending on the specifics of manufacturing the shape of the outer edges of the upper and lower holes of the pipe:

Cup edges of uniform thickness and shape along the entire length of the pipe, without any protruding parts or recesses. A fairly common case and a very common practice used by many bicycle frame manufacturers. Such glasses are easy to manufacture, they are versatile and unpretentious, it is easy to choose a steering column for them.
In such a glass, you can install a standard or semi-integrated steering column, suitable for the diameter of its holes. Glasses without bevelled edges are a twofold solution. On the one hand, the greater density of the metal along the edges provides increased reliability and endurance, on the other hand, there is a possibility of backlash, since the cup does not have an internal stop. You can also note the theoretical extra weight of the whole frame structure, though very, very insignificant. For the average cyclist, such changes are usually negligible and imperceptible.
The head tube may contain grooves / chamfers with inside(end bevels of the outer edge of the metal pipe) in the form of recesses with thinner outer edges, designed to more accurately fit the outer cups of the steering columns, thus ensuring a better fit in its rightful place.
In such a glass, you can also install a standard or semi-integrated steering column, suitable for the diameter of its holes. This approach on the part of manufacturers is more correct and responsible, as well as thoughtful. Due to this, it is possible to reduce the weight of the head tube and virtually eliminate the likelihood of backlash over time. However, the chamfered edges are usually thinner than the rest of the head tube, making them more vulnerable to uneven side loads or impacts, if any.
The head tube can be equipped with non-removable cups pressed into the tube itself, containing industrial (industrial) bearings or with a special groove for installing bearings.
Usually found in expensive professional frames, distinguished by high quality and complexity in maintenance and repair, at the same time, and the obvious advantage in the form of a structure completely hidden inside the pipe with bearings.

The listed differences in head tubes, which seem insignificant at first glance, can still have an impact on the stage of choosing a frame for certain requirements of a cyclist. So, for example, an ordinary user usually does not need to contact integrated systems due to the complexity of maintenance and other nuances; and it also makes sense to pay attention to conical glasses if you plan to build a bike for super-extreme riding.

Bicycle steering column

The steering column is usually called a set of elements (in particular cups, rings, anthers, anchors, etc.) containing open or industrial (closed) type bearings. Exactly steering column ultimately ensures the rotation of the steering wheel and fork, is responsible for the smoothness of this process and the durability of operation without maintenance. The choice of a suitable and most importantly compatible steering column for the existing frame glass is extremely important for its successful installation and good steering performance in general, in particular: steering responsiveness; smoothness and softness of rotation; endurance of the entire node to certain loads; lack of gaps and backlashes; increased durability.

Among all existing steering columns stand out two main different types:

Threaded steering column (threaded). An inevitable relic of the past and in a sense a "classic", well known to many as practically the only option used on bicycles originally from the USSR. Simple and straightforward to install and remove, unpretentious and cheap, but at the same time far from the most reliable and not designed for increased loads.
Nowadays, although obviously outdated along with other options, it continues to be stubbornly used by manufacturers on recreational and road bikes, as well as on cruisers. In general, such a choice is justified, since for the listed disciplines there are practically no serious loads on this node and the requirements for it are minimal.
The threaded steering column includes the upper and lower cups, which are installed in the frame glass by pressing. The thread, as the name implies, is present on the stem of the fork (therefore, a special fork with a thread and a certain length of the stem is required for such a steering column), it is designed to tighten the upper cup, which is also threaded on the inside. From above, the structure is additionally fixed and finally tightened with a lock nut, subsequently firmly holding the fork stem in the steering tube. Bearings (regardless of type) are traditionally placed inside the upper and lower cups.
The threaded steering column is well recognized externally during a visual inspection by the characteristic lock nut in the upper part of the head tube, and this design is also distinguished by the most impressive size of protruding parts (in height relative to the edge of the tube tube) outside the frame. A threaded steering column can also be semi-integrated, when the bearing cups are recessed inside the head tube of the frame, and only the outer edge of the upper cup and the lock nut remain visible on the surface. As such, such a design has no advantages precisely in the performance of such an outdated solution, and the presence of external protruding threaded elements nullifies all the advantages.

A significant difference between a threaded steering column and other types is that the stem of the fork should not be significantly longer than the height of the head tube (the protruding part is fixed in size), and after fixing the fork with the cups of the steering column, there are no protruding parts. At the same time, the fork is securely clamped inside the glass without installing a handlebar stem, which no longer has any effect on holding the entire structure together. Despite the simplicity of the mechanical part of the threaded steering column, it has a number of significant drawbacks. This type of steering is quite complicated in fine adjustment and fitting of all parts without backlash and gaps, and also requires some skill during assembly and a set of specific tools for maintenance.
Threaded steerers also often feature a greater weight of the overall structure compared to available counterparts. But the main drawback lies in the general structural unreliability, since steering wheels of this type are not only not designed for increased loads, but even over time they unwind and loosen even in the mode of calm pleasure riding. The threaded column also has advantages, for example, an external stem of an arbitrary length and shape, which allows you to adjust the height of the steering wheel in a wider range, as well as to use designs of complex sophisticated curved shapes that provide additional comfort and convenience, which is more relevant just for pleasure and comfort-type bicycles .
Threadless steering column (threadless). The most common and most successful standard used for most modern bicycles, including those used in extreme and most loaded riding disciplines.
It is distinguished by ease of installation, often high quality of its components and unpretentiousness during operation. It also does not require special adjustment and fitting, since the structure clearly fits into the grooves and is evenly pulled together by an anchor inside the pipe.
The threadless steering column also includes two cups, upper and lower, in which bearings are placed, regardless of type. The cups have no thread and are installed in the glass of the frame by pressing. To pull the structure together and hold the fork stem in the frame, a combination of: a special anchor is used, which is placed in the fork stem and opens there, centering and aligning the position of the cups and rings relative to each other;
and steering stem, providing a final and reliable tightening (it is the mounting and fixation of the stem that plays the decisive role of reliably holding the fork in the frame. lower the handlebar to the frame if necessary.

This design is considered the most reliable and at the same time allows you to achieve the most soft and smooth taxiing, without sacrificing increased safety. Threadless steering columns are the most commonly used in modern mountain biking for a wide variety of purposes - from light cross-country to serious downhill or dirt jumping, allowing you to fully unlock the potential of a two-wheeled vehicle.
Speakers of this type have almost no drawbacks, except for some limitation on the height of the steering wheel, which is in demand in some cases, because such steering wheels are less often used for traditional road and pleasure bikes. In other respects, this non-alternative and largely uncompromising technological solution is distinguished by exceptional convenience, unpretentiousness, high quality and increased thoughtfulness.

Advantages of threadless headsets in comparison

As you know, threadless speakers have almost completely replaced threaded ones from use in recent years. Now only threadless steering columns are installed on most modern mountain (including professional), BMX "s and even road and road bikes, and there are many good and objective reasons for this:

Threadless steerer forks are cheaper to manufacture, since elementary adjustment to the size of any existing frame is possible, while in the case of a threaded design, the fork stem must exactly match the height of a specific frame head tube, being rigidly attached to it.
To adjust or install a threadless steering column, a set of commonly available and most importantly compact tools, in particular hexagons, is required; while servicing threaded steering requires expensive, rare and bulky keys that are difficult to take with you on the road. Threadless steering columns are easier and faster to install.
Threadless headsets and forks are significantly lighter than equivalent threaded counterparts.
The removal of the threadless version more reliably and more firmly fixes the fork in its place, which also improves the rigidity of the entire mechanism and the steering wheel in particular.
On threaded steering columns, water can enter the structural crevices, causing corrosion and premature wear over time.

The only advantage of threaded steering columns can only be considered the possibility of vertical adjustment of the steering wheel along with the stem (often in such cases it is a single monolithic design) in a wide range.

Subspecies of threadless steering columns

Threadless steering columns themselves are also divided into three the main types, the differences of which are largely significant and must be taken into account during the selection for compatibility with the head tube of the frame:

Standard threadless headset with outer cups. EC (External Cup). The most common case of threadless steering, used for mountain and road bikes different direction.
Often referred to as the Aheadset headset after the name of the brand that first introduced this standard to the bike market. This headset is different in that the cups with bearings are outside the steering cup, outside of it.
This design is more unpretentious and less expensive compared to analogues, however, the outwardly protruding cups affect the distance from the head tube to the stem, not allowing to reduce the height of the stem, and also sometimes look very controversial purely aesthetically.
Otherwise, the standard threadless headset is a high-quality, well-designed product with virtually no flaws. Cups with bearings are pressed into the head tube of the frame, while the bearings can be changed in case of wear. After that, the fork, together with the steering stem, is aligned / tightened with a special anchor and a thrust ring, and in the final, the main fixation of the entire structure takes place with the stem mount.
Semi-integrated threadless steering column. The symbolic designation of such a steering Zero stack (ZS). The name "semi-integrated" comes from the word "integrate", meaning "embedded". Thus, the solution for a semi-integrated steering column is as follows: two cups (upper and lower) are pressed inward along the inner diameter of the steering cup, leaving practically no protruding parts on the surface, with the exception of the outer ring of the cup or rubber boot.
This is also why such steering columns are often called "Zero Stack", which means "Zero lift". Another popular name for "Low Profile" is "Low Profile". Thus, the design is ideologically similar to an ordinary threadless column, differing only in the direct location of the cups with bearings inside the glass and, of course, the size of the bearings themselves in the end.
This design is more complex and delicate to manufacture, which is why it costs more than standard aheadset headsets and is more often used in more professional narrow-purpose bikes. The main advantage of this type of steering is that the almost absence of protruding elements from the frame glass allows you to lower the stem as low as possible (literally press it against the frame), which is sometimes necessary for certain cycling disciplines (for example, highway and downhill), including giving more strength to the steering assembly.
This positioning of the steering elements also contributes to a more correct aerodynamic fit, improving general geometry rider in conjunction with the bike.
Integrated threadless steering column. The symbolic designation of such a steering Integrated (IS). Finally, the most professional incarnation, designed to completely “drown” the steering wheel into the frame and literally merge them into a single whole. As the name reveals, it is the integrated (built into the glass) steering column that provides such a merger. The essence of the implementation remains the same, only it is not the cups that are pressed into this steering wheel, but the bearings themselves (exclusively industrial), into the grooves prepared for them.
In some cases, monolithic inserts can also serve as such seats for bearings (usually aluminum inserts are used in carbon or titanium frames to reinforce a given area), mounted in the frame at the stage of its manufacture, but more often the bearings simply fit into a specially prepared groove in the frame glass itself . The integrated steering column is currently the most thoughtful and technically competent and at the same time the simplest solution, but at the same time expensive. Therefore, these columns are more common on specialized professional-level bikes, where increased demands are placed on short-term performance and high quality. Due to the specifics of the integrated steering column, only closed (industrial) type bearings are used in it, since other options would render the frame glass unusable in a fairly short period of time. "proms" are used only with a beveled lower face of the bearing, in particular, there are options with a bevel of 45°-45° (Campy spec), or with a bevel of 36°/36° (Tien Hsin Ind./FSA Standard), or with a bevel of 36 °/45° (Cane Creek spec, 1.1/8″ cup only).
The advantage of such a steering wheel is a system that is completely hidden from the eyes of a biker, which allows you to arbitrarily adjust the height of the stem and is outwardly attractive, without elements protruding beyond the edges of the steering cup. Another significant advantage of such an implementation will be that the bearings are almost completely isolated from the ingress of dirt particles from the outside, and therefore retain their original performance longer with a given set of high-quality, smooth and silent performance characteristics. And of course, this steering wheel is the easiest to use and install, because. involves only a one-time installation / pressing of a housing with an industrial bearing, without any extra steps.
But integrated systems are not without a serious drawback, in particular, such a solution may well lead the frame to a state of complete unsuitability and disable it over time, due to the wear of bearings and the appearance of play, which inevitably breaks the seat in the frame glass. Usually such a frame failure cannot be repaired (or it turns out to be extremely expensive), and leads to the need to replace the frame with a new one.

Steering column sizes and standards

For threaded steering columns

Steering column 1" inch with cup outer diameter range 30-30.8 mm and inner seat diameter within 26.4-27 mm
Steering column 1.1/8" inch
Steering column 1.1/4" inch with an outer diameter of cups 37 mm and an inner bore diameter of 33 mm

For threadless standard steering columns (EC, aheadset) There are the following standards with landing dimensions:

Steering column 0.833" inch (EC32 designation) with an outer diameter of cups 32.7 mm and an inner bore diameter of 26.4 mm
Steering column 1" inch (designation EC30) with an outer diameter of cups 30.2 mm and an inner diameter of 26.4 mm
Steering column 1.1/8" inch (EC34 designation) with an outer diameter of cups 34 mm and an inner bore diameter of 30 mm
Steering column 1.1/4" inch (EC37 designation) with an outer diameter of cups 37 mm and an inner diameter of 33 mm
Steering column 1.5" inch (EC49 designation)
Steering column 2.21" (designation EC56)

For threadless semi-integrated steering columns (ZS, zerostack) There are the following standards with landing dimensions:

Steering column 1.1/8" inch (designation ZS41 and ZS44) with an outer diameter of cups 41.3 and 44 mm, respectively, as well as an inner bore diameter of 30 mm
Steering column 1.5" inch (designation ZS49) with an outer diameter of cups 49.7 mm and an inner bore diameter of 39.8 mm
Steering column 2.21" (designation ZS56) with outside diameter of cups 56 mm

For threadless integrated steering columns (IS, integrated) There are the following standards with landing dimensions:

Steering column 1" inch (designation IS38) with cup outer diameter 38 mm and inner seat diameter 26.4 mm
Steering column 1.1/8" inch (designations IS41, IS42 and IS47) with an outer diameter of cups 41.3, 41.8 and 47 mm, respectively, as well as an inner bore diameter of 30 mm
Steering column 2.05" inch (designation IS52) with outer cup diameter 52 mm

On the basis of the given dimensions and designations, it will not be possible to select a steering column for an existing glass, provided that its type and, mainly, the diameter of the pipe are correctly determined.

Bicycle head tube and headset compatibility

Initially, steering columns, depending on their type, are inserted exclusively into compatible headsets. In practice, the whole difference comes down to two types of head tubes of the frame: conventional or integrated. It is important to remember that these two cases are not compatible with each other and for each it is necessary to select a steering column exclusively of its own type. Thus:

IN integrated head tube frame installed only integrated steering column (is, integrated) and nothing else.
In all other glasses (not integrated), you can install the steering column of the remaining formats, namely: threaded, threadless standard (threadless, aheadset) or threadless semi-integrated (threadless, zaero stack).

Knowing the type of head tube of the frame (one of the two listed), a compatible steering column is selected already by the size of the head tube hole diameter and usually does not present any difficulty. The desired diameter can be found either from the specification for your frame (if any); or by measuring the distance manually, for example with a caliper. In a simple case, it will be enough just to choose a steering column based on the obtained (standard) glass sizes.

However, there are difficult cases and various exceptions where it is possible to install a non-standard or incompatible size steering column in an existing head tube. For this there is Golden Rule , with which the error is excluded: it is important that the size of the steering column is equals glass diameter, or was less. Only in these cases is installation and possible compatibility guaranteed. If the steering column is smaller in diameter than the hole in the glass, then there are special adapters for its installation, but this is more of a category of non-standard solutions and it is better to avoid such options by choosing the steering column exactly with the glass of the frame.

For a tapered head tube, the cups are selected individually, for example: the top cup will be 1.1/8" in diameter and the bottom cup will be 1.5" in diameter. Special adapters can also be installed in ordinary steering cup conical fork. In this case, the same principle applies: the head tube must be more fork diameter. On this moment it is possible to install forks with pipe diameters 1.1/8" (top) -1.5" (bottom) in a 1.5" head tube and even in a 1.1/8" head tube using specific steerer adapters. However, such a non-standard approach has little practical meaning and should not be used as an everyday one.

Features of choosing a frame according to the steering glass

The obvious point is that it is pointless to choose the frame of the future bicycle "glass by glass", because. usually more significant characteristics are given priority, for example: low weight, material or required geometry. However, with a meticulous approach, it will not be out of place to pay attention to the design of the steering cup as well. In this case, it is most logical to choose a frame with a glass or with initially prepared bevels / chamfers for pressing in the steering cups (which will certainly be more correct and reliable in terms of landing in its rightful place without play or gap), or give preference to a frame with a glass for an integrated steering column as the most perfect, thoughtful and technically correct solution that will serve faithfully long years without the need for frequent maintenance, adjustment or repair. At the same time, high-quality and expensive semi-integrated and standard steering ones also deserve close attention.

However, it should be taken into account that under different styles and disciplines of riding will be more appropriate for certain steering mechanisms, winning with their unique advantages, despite outdated standards and other shortcomings. So for pleasure, road, comfortable bikes and cruisers, the threaded steering column in all its variations is definitely the leader, since only it allows you to adjust the height of the steering wheel along with the stem in a fairly wide range, providing fine tuning for ideal comfort and personal ease of fit. At the same time, for dirt, extreme sports, stunt disciplines or downhill, increased strength of all components and components of the bike, including the frame, is required, and in this case it is reasonable to consider head tubes with dimensions of at least 1.5 "inch or tapered (tapered). in all other cases, the role of the steering cup is not so significant.

Steering column difference and manufacturers

With the seeming simplicity and uniformity of the device of such a node as a steering column, the options presented on the market differ from each other, and sometimes quite significantly.
But what can the steering column of a bicycle ultimately influence and what parameters are significant? Among all well-known manufacturers for this bicycle assembly, the following matters:

Weight. A fairly significant parameter that ultimately affects the final mass of the entire bike. In racing and speed disciplines, the minimum weight is relevant to give maximum acceleration and dynamics, while in the extreme discipline of dirt or downhill, maximum strength is needed and weight does not play a decisive role. Usually fluctuates within 100 grams per steering assembly.
Type of bearing used. Bearings can be simply loose, can be placed in a cage, or they can be pressed into a separate closed housing (industrial bearings). Also, the material from which the bearings are made is of great importance, which primarily affects the long-term preservation of the original characteristics.
Material of cups, anthers, etc. Different materials provide different characteristics that ultimately affect smoothness, durability, impact resistance, and more. For different styles of riding, close attention should be paid to the materials used to obtain the necessary balanced performance of the assembly as a whole. Cups can be made from: stainless steel; aluminum; from titanium; from carbon; from plastic; from various alloys and polymers; from various combinations of materials.
Accuracy of fitting components to each other. The durability of the steering column as a whole depends on this parameter, without the need for maintenance. And also smoothness of the course and unpretentiousness of daily operation wins from qualitative conformity.
Design. A subtle individual moment, which, although it does not have any effect on the practical characteristics of the steering, often remains the "last word" in the choice of this component. Sometimes overly bright, flashy and overly sophisticated execution of the external cups visible to the eye can turn off the acquisition, despite the excellent performance (or vice versa). And sometimes the steering column is purchased exclusively "in the color" of the frame.
Various individual technological solutions of one or another manufacturer. It would seem difficult to come up with something innovative in such a node as a steering column, however, some manufacturers: use a unique combination of materials to achieve certain product characteristics; or, for example, a patented solution from Cane Creek with the ability to adjust the angle of inclination of swivel hemispherical cups in a certain range called Angleset, as well as other analogues from other manufacturers with adjustable cup angle.

There are many manufacturers of steering columns, but among the whole variety, only a few stand out, having proven themselves with high quality, a responsible approach to manufacturing and a long-term reputation among cyclists.
Of these brands, the following are noteworthy: Acros, Blackspire, Cane Creek, Campagnolo, Chris King, FSA, Hope, Reset, Ritchey. Particularly noteworthy are those that have a long history of exclusively making steering columns, such as Chris King, which stands out for the handcrafted manufacturing and design process of each steering column assembly, including a thorough pre-sales check of each product.

How is the steering column installed by pressing?

The vast majority of steering columns are installed or mated to the frame using the so-called pressing method. What he really is? pressing- this is a way of combining / conjugating parts with each other "in tightness", acting on them with a certain uniform external pressure. As a result of proper pressing, reliable operation of the entire mechanism or assembly as a whole is ensured.

The steering column of a bicycle is most often installed in the frame in this way. Many cyclists mistakenly believe that to carry out such a difficult procedure, it is enough to use a hammer and “through a piece of wood” literally hammer the headset cups into the frame glass. This approach is fundamentally wrong, since the slightest mistake can cost the frame (the glass can crack), or damage the steering column itself, or lead to improper installation and further functioning of this component. For the competent installation of the steering column of a bicycle in its rightful place, there is a special tool called steering column press, which is a rod with double-sided nozzles that rest against the cups of the steering column on both sides of the glass and evenly, evenly and coaxially sink the cups of the steering column inside.
The tool is quite rare in everyday life and annoyingly expensive, but at the same time it is extremely necessary for anyone who wants to ensure the correctness and durability of the steering mechanism.

Necessary steering column maintenance and required tools

Many modern steering columns are of the so-called maintenance-free type, i.e. requiring no intervention for the entire period of operation. In particular, this applies to headsets with industrial sealed bearings, which do not require lubrication and are not so afraid of harsh and harsh operating conditions. However, among all steering columns, there is a fairly high percentage of open bearing modifications with a very limited service life and a high degree of wear that require periodic maintenance. It consists in periodic (at least once a season, depending on the intensity of riding) checking the condition of the bearings for wear and lubricating them. The degree of wear of the bearings is checked visually for grinding balls, and they are lubricated with grease for bearings, you can use both a specialized bicycle and any suitable one, the best way suitable calcium grease, such as grease.

Of the necessary tools for servicing the steering column, only those are needed that allow you to remove everything superfluous and get to it, namely, remove the anchor and stem, and then remove the fork stem. For this, it is usually enough basic set hexagons (dimensions 3-4-5-6 mm) or stars.

Your steering wheel is worn out, but you do not know how to find a suitable replacement? In this article, we will cover the main aspects that will help you buy a suitable replacement. Remember that the simplest, most precise and most effective way to find out which steering you need is to check with the manual for your frame.

The article addresses the following questions:

Types of steering

There are several types of steering, differing in the seat in the frame. You can usually tell which steering wheel you have just by looking at it.

With remote cups ( EU)

Usually such steering wheels are marked with the inscription EU, from English External Cup - external cup. Often such helmsmen are calledTraditional , that is, the traditional. Headsets with outrigger cups are typically found on bikes with 1” or 1”-1/8 forks. This headset allows you to use a larger bearing and larger cups in a narrow head tube, which positively affects its wear resistance. Due to the high cups, the disadvantage of this headset is the need to use a fork with a longer stem, and the effect of such a headset on the geometry of the bike (the distance from the bottom of the frame to the crown of the fork increases). Inside there can be bulk, separator and industrial bearings. Headset cups are pressed into the frame.

Semi-integrated helms ( ZS)

Cup markingZS, from English Zero Stack - zero piling up. Also calledIntegral. In such steering, the bearing and cup are inside the steering tube. Handlebars of this type allow you to set the stem lower and practically do not affect the geometry of the bike. Industrial bearings are used inside. Headset cups are pressed into the frame.

Integrated steering ( IS)

MarkingIS, from English Integrated Headset - integrated steering. You can see the name Integrated . In fact, the role of the cup here is performed by the steering glass. Industrial bearings are inserted inside. The advantages of this standard are the minimum weight and no problems with installation.

Tapered headsets

Also calledTapered . These headsets are made specifically to fit tapered steerer forks. Check it out if you want to know a little more. The steering tube for frames of this standard resembles a “pear”. Everything would be fine, but different manufacturers make different seats for the lower cup, Trek has one standard, Scott / Lapierre has another, and Giant has a third.

Dimension and compatibility

Alas, but appearance is just the tip of the iceberg. In order not to miscalculate with the steering wheel, you need to measure the seat and cup of the old steering wheel. This can be done with a caliper. The images below show the most up-to-date data on the dimensions and compatibility of the headsets.

conclusions

This variety of standards brings not only headache when choosing a headset, it also allows you to install a fork with a 1”1/8 stem in a 1.5” glass, or put a 1”1/8 stem in a Tapered, that is, it gives a good place to maneuver when choosing a fork.

The most current standard is now considered a semi-integrated steering, so if you are going to get a new steering, then it makes sense to take a closer look at this particular type.

Nowadays, more and more people are starting to change to active transport - a bicycle. Bicycle designs are becoming more and more complex, thereby pulling the price along with them. Therefore, you have to invent and get out something yourself in order to save a bit.

I have a bike, for 10 years already, I gradually upgraded it myself a little. And then the joy fell on his head, a friend gave a used suspension fork and take-out to her under the steering wheel.

It doesn't matter that the wheels are 24 inches, and the fork is 26 inches, I sacrificed the front brakes. But then another problem came up, the glass on the frame I have for an inch fork, and the loaded one for 1 1/8 inches. Accordingly, the stem of the fork is thicker and my cups of the glass will not fit, they simply will not fit. Below are different sizes cups, steering cups and fork stems.

It was decided unequivocally that I needed to buy a new steering kit under 1 1/8 inches and somehow connect it to the glass. I bought a Longus steering kit, with regular cups. In addition to the usual classic cups, there are now - semi-integrated and integrated, below are given.

Here is my kit

The outer, mounting diameter of the new cups coincided with the outer diameter of the frame glass. And then the idea came, what if we make adapters for installation outside the glass.

It was decided, I sat down for measurements and drawing in the SPlan 7.0 program, because the program is simple and universal. Here's what happened:

Construction assembly:

Having drawn the drawings, I handed everything over to the turner. The days of impatience and anticipation passed. Four days later, the details fell into my hands, it turned out very nice and, most importantly, not expensive.

In addition to the drawing, he also gave the turner two cups of the steering kit, so that he machined the fit on the adapters with an interference fit.

I degreased the adapters and painted them with black matte nitro paint, though from a spray can, from PAINT. The paint is very good, does not float, uniform and pleasant to paint with it.

The glass at the top and bottom had to be processed with a needle file and adjusted to the adapters, because the glass breaks over time and becomes in the shape of an outer cone.

Having lubricated all the seats with grease, I stuffed the adapters through the wooden inserts and drove the upper and lower cups into them. It came out very nice and looks like a factory. I installed a fork, anthers, two spacer rings, a stem and pulled it off with steering wheel adjustment in a glass.

By the end of the work, on the Internet, I came across almost such an implementation, but I was hooked by what I first came up with than dug up.

In general, everything that he conceived and embodied, at low cost. Looks decent.

For a long time, 1 1/8″ was the go-to head tube size in the bike market, but as time goes on, the 1 1/8-1.5″ Tapered has become the new standard for a few years now.

If you bought your bike three or four years ago (or later), then most likely you have an old type of headset, and it’s not easy to install a new fork with a tapered stem.

This applies to those who planned to upgrade their simple imitator fork to a decent air one over time. Nowadays, the leading manufacturers of bike shock absorbers have almost completely switched to the new Tapered standard, and it has become difficult to buy the right option.

More precisely, the old standard 1 1/8″ forks are still on sale, but mostly these are old models, and the choice is very small, while the prices for new options with a Tapered stem can be cheaper. This was already the case with the 1″ headset size, forks under that standard first became a shortage, and then exotic.

But if then it was simply physically impossible to insert a thicker stem of a new fork into the old head tube, now everything is much easier - a fork with a 1 1/8-1.5″ tapered stem can be put into a regular 1 1/8″ head tube. I will write about this a little lower, but for now let's talk about why the size of the steering wheel changes in general.

Size 1 ″ left the scene at one time for the same reason - a small diameter pipe does not give acceptable rigidity in control - the fork “walks” with active braking and taxiing, and the more the rider weighs, the more it feels.

The steerer stem size of the new forks remains the same 1 1/8" at the top while the bottom has been enlarged to 1.5". The larger diameter of the stem and head tube gave the necessary rigidity.

Is it necessary for a simple skater - perhaps not, in my opinion, he does not ride a bicycle in such modes when the lack of rigidity of the steering rod can be clearly felt. Therefore, we will consider this to be the next marketing ploy for the main market of mountain bikes.

Although I will make a reservation that for athletes and those who ride hard and aggressively, new size turned out to be in the subject - especially in combination with the 15mm axle in the front hub, the bike began to behave more predictably.

Tapered steerer fork

However, no matter how hard marketers try to put us on new bikes because of the impossibility of upgrading, there is a way out. At least one I know of is for owners of bikes with semi-integrated 44mm headsets (a very common headset).

So, if you want to put a tapered steerer fork in your frame with a conventional headset, then this one can help you wonderful steering wheel from NukeProof.

The top cup is regular 1 1/8, but the bottom cup is 1.5 outside, and it all fits into a regular cylindrical head tube. The main condition is that your bike must have a head tube specifically for a semi-integrated head tube with an internal size of 44mm, ZS (ZeroStack) standard.

I know for a lot of cyclists head tube standards are a dark forest, but if you want to upgrade your forks, you have to figure it out, it's easy.

What are the steering columns on a bicycle

In general, there are a lot of standards for steering, I will describe only a few of the most common among mountain bikes.

Semi-integrated ZeroStack (ZS) headset

It is easy to distinguish this type of steering wheel - between the plastic protection and the steering cup you will see a metal insert - this is the cup where the bearing lies. In the picture below, the cup is red.

In the steering cup, under the cups (top and bottom), seats are machined, where they are pressed. Bearings, open ball or closed industrial, are inserted into the cups, and all this is clamped by offset through spacer rings.

There is also a similar design, I don’t even know exactly what it’s called, the cups are also pressed into the steering cup, but unlike the ZS, the bearings are not hidden inside the cup, but are located outside, which is why the diameter of the pipe is smaller than the diameter of the cups.

Integrated steering

This type of steering differs from the previous one in that there are no cups - seats for cartridge bearings are machined right in the steering cup itself.

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I know that there are other possibilities to put a tapered fork on a regular frame, at least I heard about lower part a Cane Creek steerer that accepts a 1.5″ taper stem.

Also, if there is a need to put a fork with a regular 1 1/8 stem in a frame with a tapered head tube, then there are adapters, but they didn’t come across my eyes, who knows, write in the comments.

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