The pool is stationary in the country with their own hands. How to build a pool in the country with your own hands - a complete step-by-step instruction

Pools in the country have long ceased to be a rarity. Only the sizes of such structures and their shape vary. can be both full-fledged, with full equipment of the appropriate equipment, and small, intended only for bathing children.

Types of country pools and their features

To begin with, you need to decide which country pools you plan to place on your site. According to the installation methods, they are divided into:

According to the materials of manufacture, pools for summer cottages are divided into products from:

It is better to protect a stationary pool with at least the simplest canopy. In this case, it will accumulate less debris and fallen leaves.

Filtration system

Without a high-quality filtration system, stationary pools for summer cottages in the most a short time just overgrown with mud. Depending on the way the water circulates in them, you can choose any of the cleaning systems:

Monolithic concrete pool for summer cottages

From durable reinforced concrete, you can make both a small swimming pool and a full-fledged one. swimming pool equipped with modern equipment. But in both cases, the process of its arrangement is largely similar. We will describe in detail how to build a pool in the country with our own hands from concrete.

Site selection and site preparation

In order for the water in the pool to warm up as quickly as possible, it is placed in an open space, away from tall buildings and trees that block the sun. The proximity of vegetation is also undesirable because in the fall, crumbling foliage will clog the pool, and it will take much longer to clean it. The growing roots of such powerful plants as poplar, willow or birch can easily destroy even concrete.

A swimming pool in the courtyard of a country house or cottage is associated with the luxury and wealth of the owner. This is partly true, but anyone who owns even a small plot can afford their own bathing place.

This will require minimal cash investment, improvised materials, free time and a simple tool that most summer residents have. How to make a pool with your own hands - read our article.

What improvised means can be used as a material for making

Speaking of improvised means, we mean materials that can be easily obtained without spending a lot of money. Wherein final result, except for the appearance, will differ little from the finished products.

old tire

An old tire from large construction or agricultural equipment is an inexpensive material for construction. big pool. It is best to use a combine tire with a diameter of 30-32 inches. This size is enough to equip the pool for one adult or two children.

To find a suitable tire size, you should contact a tire repair shop, where they will sell an unusable product for a small fee. Often, large tires are sold by hand on the Internet.

Residents of big cities can go to a recycling warehouse, from where old tires are transported to factories for further processing.

Among the advantages of a pool made of tires are:

the width of large tires allows the use of material for the construction of the walls of the pool;
the rounded shape of the tire is ideal for creating a water tank;
durable inner frame of the tire will reliably hold water;
the rubber used in the manufacture of the product is not afraid of sudden changes and sub-zero temperatures;
the total cost of materials spent for the manufacture is several times lower than when buying a finished structure;
a tire pool is easily decorated with paint.

The main disadvantage of such a pool is the total volume of the structure, which is enough for only one, maximum two adults. It will not be able to fully swim and dive.

In fact, a tire pool will resemble a bath where you can relax and lie down comfortably after a hot day at work.

wooden pallets

Wooden pallets are a rough plank flooring on a support used for storing loose mixes in bags. The pallet has a convenient design and shape, suitable for creating the supporting walls of the pool.

Pallets are knocked together in a vertical position, forming the frame of the future pool. The more pallets, the more round the water tank will turn out.

For a medium-sized pool, 9-11 pallets will suffice. This is enough for a container in which 3-4 people can freely accommodate.

The advantages of a homemade pallet pool include the following:

the height of the pallet makes it possible to build a large-capacity pool;
ease of installation and fastening of stairs, steps, slides for descent into the water;
no need to dig a deep foundation pit;
easy to dismantle and move to a new location;
if necessary, it can be quickly repaired or expanded by adding one or two sections.

Among the disadvantages of such a basin, one can note the general instability. It will be necessary to use tie-down straps and supports to strengthen the structure, which must be checked and tightened before each flood of water.

To protect against moisture and natural precipitation, finishing from the outside is required, with further processing of all wooden elements with an antiseptic.

gabions

Gabion is a reinforcing structure made of wire mesh. Previously, such products were used to strengthen river banks, preventing their erosion. In construction and gardening, they are used to create three-dimensional products of various shapes.

When creating a pool, they are ideal for forming walls. To fill the mesh forms, it is best to use dry stone of various sizes.

The advantages of such a pool include:

gabions allow you to create a container of any shape: circle, oval, square, rectangle;
solidity and strength of the structure;
a simple work technology that allows you to create a pool of any size;
original appearance that does not require additional finishing.

The labor costs for the installation of this pool are quite high, since it will be necessary to find a sufficient amount of stone and deliver it to the work site. Dismantling is another weak point of the structure, since it will take a lot of time to disassemble the pool.

Plastic bottles

Plastic containers are constantly used to create summer cottages and transfer water around the site. But it can also be used and applied to the construction of the pool.

The essence of the method is that plastic bottle will be laid on cement mortar, forming the walls of the future pool. During laying, the seams and the space between the bottles are filled with cement, which will give sufficient strength and tightness to the future structure.

The volume and shape of the container will depend only on the number of containers that can be found. This is the main disadvantage of the method, since long-term preparation of the material is required.

If possible, you can buy containers in bulk. On average, the construction of a large pool will take no more than 2.5-3 thousand rubles, not including the cost of a cement-sand mixture.

concrete ring

Concrete rings are used to strengthen the walls of the well and sewer shaft. The standard dimensions of the reinforced concrete ring depend on the marking of the product. For example, products marked KS-15–9 have a height of 90 cm and a diameter of 150 cm.

The optimal dimensions of well rings for the construction of a pool can be found in the table below. There are rings with a ready-made bottom, which will simplify the process of building a pool, since you do not have to pour a concrete base.

The advantages of such a pool include its strength and durability. Concrete walls do not need to be reinforced and treated with a protective compound. The width and depth of the resulting capacity is quite enough for bathing 2-3 adults.

The only negative is that for the delivery of the ring to country cottage area you will need to order large-sized transport. A crane is used to unload and transfer to the location of the pool, which will also require certain costs on the part of the customer.

metal container

Large metal containers are used for transportation by rail or in shipping. You can find them at metal delivery points, where leaky products are often delivered.

Such a container is well suited for the pool - you only need to weld the gaps formed. The capacity of the container directly affects the size of the future pool.

As in the case of the well ring, you will need to order special equipment for the delivery, unloading and transfer of the container to a place not previously prepared. Otherwise, the container is almost identical to ready-made plastic pools. It is only required to carry out a small cosmetic repair and treatment with an anti-corrosion compound.

Inside, the container is covered with waterproof paint or lined with any suitable tile.

Preparation and calculation of the structure

An old tire and wooden pallets are the most affordable material for creating a do-it-yourself pool. Based on this, we will calculate the volume of the container based on the overall dimensions and the number of pallets.

As a wheel tire, it is better to use a tire from a BelAZ truck model FT-116AM2 or FT-117M2. These are large tires with a width of 955 mm and a diameter of more than 3000 mm.

Other models and their sizes can be seen in the table in the photo below.

To calculate the volume of the future pool, we use a simple formula: V \u003d π * r 2 * h, where V is the volume of the container in the form of a cylinder, π is a constant value (3.14), r is the radius of the circle, h is the tire width.

Let's carry out the calculation for the FT-117M2 tire, the width of which is 1175 mm, and the diameter is 3575 mm. The total thickness of the sand-concrete cushion will be 30 cm.

The sequence of calculations is as follows:

According to the initial data, the tire radius will be equal to: 3575 / 2 = 1.7875 mm.
We substitute the data into the formula and calculate the volume of the structure: 3.14 * 1.7875 2 * 1.175 \u003d 13.1899 or 13.19 m 3.
Similar actions for calculating the volume of sand and cement: 3.14 * 1.7875 2 * 0.15 \u003d 1.6838 or 1.68 m 3.

Other finishing materials are selected individually according to taste and design project, if any.

Wooden pallets are produced in accordance with GOST and have dimensions of 800 × 1200 mm. Knowing the dimensions of the pallet, you can calculate the volume of the pool of almost any shape. Since we advised using from 9 pallets, we will carry out the calculation for the pool in the form of a nonagon.

To do this, we use the standard formula for calculating the volume: V - S o * h, where S o is the area of \u200b\u200bthe base, and h is the height of the pallet. The formula for the area of a nonagon: S o \u003d 6.18182 * a 2, where a is the side of the nonagon, which in our case is equal to the height of the pallet.

The sequence of calculations in the following order:

We calculate the area of the base: 6.18182 * 1.2 2 \u003d 14.8363.
Pool volume: 14.8363 * 0.8 \u003d 11.869 m 3.

If the pallets will be located in height, then instead of 1.2 m, substitute 0.8 m in the first formula. We do the same with the second formula. In this case, the pool will turn out to be deeper, but slightly decrease in diameter.

Tools and accessories

To build a pool from an old tire, you will need the following tool:

A sharp knife with a strong blade.
Shovel and bayonet shovel.
Capacity for kneading cement-sand mixture.
Construction mixer or drill with a suitable attachment.
Roulette and bubble level.

For mixing a large volume of mortar, it is better to use a concrete mixer. This will significantly speed up the work process.

To build a pool from pallets, you will need the following:

Hammer and screwdriver.
Jigsaw, planer and grinder.
Pliers, screws and nails.
Shovel and bayonet shovel.
Tanks for sand, cement and water.
Roulette, square and pencil.

An electric jigsaw can be replaced with a conventional wood saw, a grinder with sandpaper. It will have virtually no effect on the final result.

How to make a tire pool

Before work is carried out, it is imperative to carry out the initial clearing of the site. You will need to remove old foliage, branches, uproot germinating bushes, etc. To transfer the tire to the place of work, you will need the help of a partner.

The sequence of building a pool from a large tire is as follows:

Flip the cover over to the side. Cut with a knife side part around the circumference. When cutting, you should focus on the markings applied to the tire. This will simplify the cutting process and allow you to get a cut with a smooth edge. It is not recommended to use a grinder, as the rubber will quickly turn into crumbs and stick to the disc.
Next, the site is being prepared for the arrangement of the sandy flooring. This can be done in two ways. In the first case, we remove a layer of soil to a depth of 25–30 cm. The base area should be slightly larger than the diameter of the tire. Carefully level the base of the pit and fill it with fine-grained sand. The layer thickness is 15 cm. Then we slightly moisten the sand with a small amount of water and compact it with a shovel.
In the second case, you do not need to dig a recess. It is enough to level the area of \u200b\u200bland on which sand will be poured. Further tamping technology is similar. We recommend using the first method, since a similar method is used to build a blind area and allows you to create a more solid foundation.
A layer of concrete mortar with a thickness of at least 15 cm will need to be poured onto the compacted sand. For this, ready-made mixtures of grade M300 and higher are used. With self-mixing, the proportion of cement to sand is 1:3. The amount of water affects the ease of laying and spreading the solution.
While the solution is wet, you need to transfer the tire to the place of pouring. After installation, the tire is slightly pressed into the solution. In the void between the concrete mortar and the tire, another 2-3 buckets of the mixture should be poured.
You can start decorating the pool and wait for the mixture to dry. After 14 days, the concrete layer will gain 80% of its strength. Complete drying of concrete occurs within 25–28 days.

To decorate such a pool, outdoor paint, decorative stone, and tile pieces are used. Before pouring water, it is better to cover the inner surface of the tire with a waterproof paint.

Arrangement of the pool from plastic bottles

In addition to cement and sand, to create a bottle pool, you will need to prepare wooden boards, small bars and gravel. The bar size is 25×50 mm. Gravel fraction - 5/20. The length of the board should be equal to the length of the base, where the sand and gravel cushion will be poured.

The sequence of actions for creating a bottle pool is as follows:

The selected area should be cleared of debris and branches. Next, you will need to remove the top layer of turf and dig a pit to a depth of 30 cm. The dimensions of the pit should be 20–30 cm larger than the pool on each side. For example, for a pool with sides of three meters, a pit measuring 330 × 330 cm is suitable.
Formwork is being installed. To do this, the bars should be sharpened at the end with an ax. The bar is nailed to the board every 100–120 cm. A metal corner for furniture is used to fasten the boards into a frame. For example, a corner marked 40 * 40 * 16 is suitable.
The formwork is installed in a dug pit. The base of the dug recess is leveled and lightly rammed. If necessary, the land can be treated with an antiseptic to kill weeds. After that, a layer of sand and gravel with a thickness of 12–15 cm is backfilled.
If there is no gravel, then it will be necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh assembled from reinforcement bars. To do this, the rods are knitted using ordinary wire. The frame is installed so that the reinforcement does not touch the sand. Installation on a pre-laid stone or brick is allowed.
Before pouring concrete, the location of the drain hole should be provided. It is better to use a ready-made product for draining water. The pipe is attached to the fittings. In the process of pouring, it will need to be straightened relative to the upper plane.
Concrete mortar is being poured.
In this case, it is better to use a concrete mixer, since 1.5–2 m 3 of concrete will be required for large bases. During the pouring process, the concrete must be compacted with a wooden lath or shovel.
After pouring the base, you should wait at least 14–18 days and only then proceed with laying the walls of the pool. For masonry, you will need to pull the mooring cord, fixing it on bricks and any other material. The thread is pulled strictly around the perimeter of the future pool.
Cement-sand mortar is laid out along a stretched landmark. A plastic container filled with sand is placed on a fresh solution. The bottles are tied together with a wire with a cross section of 3 mm. The work process is similar to bricklaying. The laying of the first row continues until the base of all four walls is completed. After they move on to laying the second and subsequent rows. The optimal wall height is 100–150 cm.

Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to finish the interior of the pool. To do this, all cracks and voids are covered with a cement mixture until the formation flat surface. If the cement layer is more than 3 cm, then it is better to use a reinforcing mesh that is attached to the bottom of the bottle with self-tapping screws.

The front side of the pool walls is finished in a similar way. As a protective and decorative coating for interior walls, waterproof pool paint is used, which is applied with a roller for 1-2 layers. After painting, you should wait at least 5 days.

Instructions for creating a pool from pallets with your own hands

To create a pool from pallets, you will need to purchase a wood preservative, PVC film and a drain pipe of any convenient shape.

The process of building such a pool consists of the following steps:

Wooden pallets need to be treated with an antiseptic or antifungal impregnation 1-2 times.
Depending on the shape of the pool, it is necessary to dig a hole with a depth of 30 cm. We carried out calculations for a pool of 9 pallets, then the hole will have a round shape. The size of the pit should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pool itself.
At the bottom of the pit, a layer of gravel with a fraction of 5/20 should be covered and evenly distributed over the surface. The layer thickness is not more than 20 cm. Further, the frame of the future container is assembled inside the pit. Pallets are mounted with boarding inside. For connection, metal corners, boards and self-tapping screws are used.
The drain pipe is in progress. To do this, a hole is cut in the frame, through which the pipe is threaded with a drain to the outside. After that, it is necessary to strengthen the structure with 2-3 tie-down straps.
Wooden wedges from bars are driven in around the circumference every 30–50 cm. This will further strengthen the structure. A layer of concrete mixture with a thickness of 10–15 cm is being poured. A rule is used for leveling.
Drying of the concrete layer will occur in 25–28 days, but further work can be carried out after 10–14 days from the moment of pouring. To cover the inner surface, a PVC film is used, which is fixed at the top of the pallet.

Facing the pool outside can be done using chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood.

An artificial reservoir can serve not only as an ideal place to relax, but also as a real decoration of the site. For its construction, it is absolutely not necessary to invite specialists - you can make a small concrete bowl for the pool and reliable waterproofing for it yourself.

Choosing a place for the pool

Before starting construction, you should carefully consider the filling systems (it is more convenient to place the reservoir closer to the water supply), cleaning and water drainage. When choosing a place for a pool, you should be guided by the following rules:

You should not place it next to trees: their roots will tend to water and can damage the waterproofing; in addition, fallen leaves will fall into it, and the heating of water in a shaded area will be slow;

So that when frozen wet soil is heaving, it does not damage the pool bowl, the pit should be placed in the area with the deepest groundwater; it is better if it is a clay area: clay does not pass water well, and in case of partial damage to the waterproofing, the water from the pool will not leave so quickly;

In order to get as little dust, dirt and fallen leaves as possible into it, a place should be chosen for it so that the prevailing wind direction goes along it; moreover, pipes for overflow and water purification should be located in the direction opposite to the direction of the wind - in this case, the accumulated dirt will immediately merge.

It is not recommended to locate a reservoir next to large trees.

Advice. Maintenance of structures of complex shape, with many bends and angles, is much more difficult. In the absence of a quality filtration system, it is better to choose a rectangular or oval pool.

Optimal depth artificial reservoir - 105-170 cm. If there are children in the house, you should take care of their safety. To avoid accidents, a 50 cm deep bathing area should be fenced off with a net.

Pit preparation. Waterproofing

The main stages of the construction of the pool are:
laying a pillow of sand and crushed stone or gravel (in areas with sandy or rocky soil, you can do without it);
installation of expanded polystyrene on the bottom of the pool to compensate for ground pressure;
double waterproofing of the bowl (with external and inner sides concrete structure);
laying of cleaning and removal systems;
installation of formwork and reinforcement;
pouring concrete;
application of a waterproofing film (concrete milk);
building decoration.

1. The marking of the pit is carried out using pegs and a nylon string stretched between them. When calculating its width, the size of the formwork is taken into account. The depth of the pit should also be greater than planned: the heights of sand and foam pads, concrete pouring and finishing should be taken into account in the calculations.

Marking the place for the pool

2. To protect against soil shedding, the walls of the pit are made with a slight slope. After leveling the bottom and walls, all loose soil is removed from the pit. The earth in it should be spilled with water and carefully compacted.

3. Its bottom is covered with a layer of sand 10-12 cm, and then crushed stone or gravel and compacted again.

Drainage cushion device

Advice. In order to accumulate as little dirt as possible in the pool, it should be located just above the surface of the earth. Otherwise, rainwater, along with dirt, will constantly enter the tank.

4. If the design provides bottom water outlet, pipes for it should be laid before backfilling with rubble. At the same time, the pit is made with a slight slope towards the drains. Such pipes are packed in protective sleeves that protect them from freezing, laid at a slight slope of 5 ° and brought to a pre-prepared pit. At the other end of the pipe is installed valve. For small swimming pool one pipe is enough. In the construction of a larger area, one drain will not be enough: it is better to provide for 2-3 of them.

6. The simplest waterproofing are roofing material on bituminous mastic or PVC film (the polyethylene film will collapse very quickly). The film, like the roofing material, is rolled out with an overlap of 15 centimeters. The waterproofing agent is laid over a layer of rubble at least in two layers. It should protrude beyond the sides of the pool by 15-20 cm.

Waterproofing and formwork installation

Hanging formwork for walls. Pouring concrete

Not only heaving of the soil, but also the weight of about a dozen tons of water will exert pressure on the walls of the pool. Therefore, the concrete frame should be constructed from high-quality cement. stamps from M300-350 proven manufacturers with mandatory gasket double layer reinforcement with cells of 20 cm. To increase the service life, it is advisable to add an additive to it - plasticizer. The thickness of concrete walls is 15-20 mm. When pouring, concrete should be laid gradually, layer by layer, and each one carefully compacted manually or with a vibrator.

Important! If the filling is carried out in layers and the subsequent seams are laid only after the previous one has hardened, a cold seam, which will be problem area, "weakness" in concrete. When the soil moves at the junction, damage can occur. That's why it is desirable to fill the walls and bottom of the pool at the same time.

cold seam

1. For simultaneous pouring of the bottom and walls of the pool formwork for walls can be "hung": lay the boards across the pit, on which the formwork will be attached. It bursts with boards every 50 cm, and the places of its joints are fixed.

Formwork for the pool

2. First, the floor is poured a couple of centimeters above the bottom edge of the formwork. So that when pouring the walls it does not lead, it should grab a little (the setting time is not more than 4 hours). If, when the reinforcement bar is immersed, it pushes through the concrete by only 3-4 cm, you can start pouring the walls. In this case, the mixture should fill the formwork evenly from all 4 sides.

3. If a concrete pump is used during pouring, it is set to minimum power. In order not to damage the floor that has not yet fully strengthened, its hose is parallel to the ground. When pouring, 5-10-minute pauses are periodically made to vibrate and set the concrete.

4. If it is not possible to fill the walls and the floor at the same time, the structure should be strengthened: fill the place of formation of a cold joint with any elastic sealant: mastic, polymer, rubber cord, non-shrink cement or liquid glass. Before laying such compensation materials, the concrete surface must be thoroughly cleaned of contamination.

5. After removing the formwork, the concrete walls and floor are covered with waterproofing film: cement mortar (concrete milk).

Applying a waterproofing film

Penetrating waterproofing

Before finishing the walls of the pool, the concrete walls are waterproofed. For this, as well as before pouring concrete, you can use PVC or roofing material. A fairly effective, but more expensive method is the use of penetrating compounds such as Ceresit or Penotron, which are applied to slightly dry concrete. Processing is carried out in 2 layers.

PVC film waterproofing

Coating with penetrating waterproofing

Water purification systems (pool filter)

Without filtration systems, the water in the pool will very quickly begin to emit an unpleasant odor, and its surface will become covered with a slippery coating. There are several ways to clean the reservoir:
periodic pumping and use of heated water for watering beds, fruit bushes and trees; however, with the complete removal of water from the pool, the new one will heat up for a long time;

with filtration systems; the simplest devices are installations filled with coarse sand; next to the pool, a small pit is arranged for a pump equipped with such a filter; two pipes are run into the pool: one for water sampling, the second for draining purified water; in this case, the cost of electricity will be minimal, you will only have to spend money on the purchase of a pumping station;

Swimming pool water treatment device

By using chemical reagents(used as an additional cleaning system); water bloom can be eliminated not only by chlorination or the addition of bromine, but with the help of an inexpensive and environmentally friendly rehydrol.

Rehydrol for water purification in the pool

Advice. Without water, a concrete bowl can crack in frost, so it is not recommended to drain water from it for the winter. It is enough to remove only part of the water, and to compensate for the pressure of ice on the walls of the pool, throw several plastic 5-liter bottles into the water, to which a load is suspended. To prevent too much debris from accumulating in the pool during the winter, it can be covered with any covering material.

Pool Finish

You can finish the bottom and walls of the pool with mesh-based mosaic tiles, propylene coating or acrylic paint for pools with the addition of color. Mosaic tiles should only be glued to an adhesive that can withstand significant temperature changes. When using mesh, the mosaic will hold well on any bends.

Advice. It is undesirable to use porous rubber-based paints for finishing the pool: it will be very difficult to wash them. Moreover, algae are very quickly attached to such surfaces.

Acrylic painting and tiling

What could be better than swimming in own swimming pool in the summer heat? Only rest at the resort, which will have to spend a lot of money, and often nerves.

It is especially beneficial to have a pond "at your side" for very busy people who have the opportunity to devote very little time to rest. And for children, such pleasant and useful entertainment as floundering and swimming will be a real gift.

Decide on the type of reservoir

Before you make a pool on the garden plot, think about what you expect from the design - decorative or practical.

Pond as landscape decoration. It is good to meditate near it or enjoy the coolness, arranging gatherings. Decorative, carps will revive and give naturalness. But it is unlikely that you will be able to swim in this - you will scare away the fish and raise the dregs. So this idea is more for visual, and not for tactile joy.
Capital stationary analogue. This is already a serious design, good for those who live in a house or in a country house permanently or for a long time.

Note!
Proper installation and well-placed communications will make you forget about silting and the constant “blooming” of water.
Of course, the price for pleasure is considerable, but you can not be afraid to pick up a fungus and other infection.
The water will be perfectly clean, and maintenance of the pool will be minimal.

Mobile plastic garden pool is convenient for summer residents. You can make it recessed (that is, dug into the ground), or you can put it on a leveled area.
The last option is desirable if you have small children. High sides will not let them fall into the water. But the edges at ground level will require increased attention, because an adult can inadvertently fall into such a bath.
Inflatable mini-pools, popularly called "paddling pools". Children have to be pulled out of them literally with a scandal, water procedures Summer is my favorite pastime. In the store you can also choose a fairly large inflatable bath for adults. The pool is also convenient because at the end of the season it is easy to blow it off and put it in the pantry.
Prefabricated frame structures for bathing. For seasonal use, they are almost perfect. Even a non-professional can assemble and disassemble the pool, it is enough to follow the sequence recommended by the instructions. Affordable cost, mobility and a variety of forms add pluses.

How to make an inlet pool

Self-implementation will allow you not only to save money, but also to realize the creative idea to the fullest.

Construction works

Think of the shape of the reservoir and solve the problem with the size. It is very useful to make a sketch, having discussed all the nuances with the family.
Choose a location. The site should be well lit, this helps to warm the water in the sun. With a well-chosen place, the water in the pool by the evening will be like fresh milk.

Clean and level the place for the future design and make markings.

Note!
The width and depth of the pit is 40–50 cm larger than the future structure.
This is a margin for insulating and concrete layers.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a sandy layer of about 15 cm and carefully compacted.
Roofing material is suitable as waterproofing. Joints should preferably be overlapped, then filled with bitumen.
At this stage, all communications, water supply and discharge are connected. If desired, a filter with a pump is installed.

Next, you can make formwork and lay the reinforcing cage.
First, the walls of the pool are poured, leaving the bottom in the end. Concreting is best done in stages, laying reinforcing bars before laying concrete mortar.
At the bottom, in a convenient place, a drain pipe with a tap is mounted. If it is discharged into the general sewer, a trench is dug in advance with a slight slope away from the pool. For forced pumping, you will need a pump, it is quite possible to install it yourself, following the instructions.

On the floor, right on the roofing material, a small layer of gravel is poured and a reinforcing mesh is laid.
You can fill the bottom with a concrete mixture, not forgetting the slope towards the drain hole.
The finished box is leveled with plaster and allowed to dry for 28 days (according to the standard, it is during this period that the concrete stone completely crystallizes).

Building finishing

Your pool is now in need of a finish to be finished and in working condition.

Economy class option - design with special waterproof plaster. The process is quick and inexpensive, but the effect will not be as impressive.
The most popular material can be called majolica, small mosaic tiles on a mesh basis. It is easy to mount, you can make an infinite number of color options and pattern combinations.
Another good option is finishing with a special waterproof ceramic tile. Difficulties may arise if the shape of the pool is complex, you will have to cut and fit fragments. This is disadvantageous if the tiles are large, there will be a lot of waste.
The solidity of the bath will give the design of marble. But the pleasure is not cheap, as it will also require workers with special equipment.
At the end, the seams between the tiles are rubbed with a waterproof fugue.
After drying, it is recommended to wash the pool with household detergent, only now it is ready for full-fledged work.

Assembly and care of the frame analogue

Anyone who does not want to mess with sand and cement, as well as spend time on finishing work, can be advised to buy a prefabricated pond with a frame.

Before building a structure on the site, carefully study the attached instructions. Pools of different shapes and models can be assembled in different ways.
Prepare the site before assembly and installation. Alignment for the stability of the reservoir is required. Try to choose a sunny, windless area.
Do not forget about adapters for connecting pipes.

Please note that the bath can not be dismantled on winter season, this is a significant plus. But at the end of the season, it is advisable to cover the container with a film.
Many manufacturers offer accessories for water heating. Convenience will cost more, but you can take water procedures almost all year round.
If desired, the mobile pool can also be installed indoors. The main thing is that the area allows.
It is necessary to take care of him, as well as for a stationary analogue. After draining the water, the walls and bottom are well washed with household products.

Note!
With proper installation and regular maintenance, the structure will last up to 10 years.
Of the minuses, one can note the shallow depth and not as attractive as the view of a stationary pool.

Conclusion

It is possible to realize the dream of a personal mini-resort in the garden even with a small investment. Just do not put off this idea, but start right now, at least with a sketch and preparation.

The video in this article offers a lot of interesting things, the original ones will definitely inspire you.

Not every summer resident is lucky to have his own house near a pond, where after physical work you can relax and enjoy cool water. The rest have to either get into the car and go in search of the nearest river, or make a pool with their own hands in the country. More often they choose the second option, because in addition to relaxation, the pool also provides side benefits:

warm, settled water, which can be used to water flower beds and a garden (if you did not add chemical disinfectants to the pool!);
the ability to switch children who are passionate about tablets, mobile phones and laptops to a healthier vacation;
improvement of the body, etc.

It remains to choose from the many options for stationary pools the one that is suitable for the needs of the family and the landscape of the site.

To simplify the care of the built pool, consider the following points already at the planning stage:

It is better if the pool area has clay soil. It will stop water leakage in case of breakdowns of waterproofing.
Choose a place with a natural slope of the soil. So you make it easier for yourself to dig a pit and immediately decide where to put the drain system.
Tall trees should not grow near the future pool, because their root system, sensing the proximity of moisture, will stretch to the walls of the structure and can ruin the waterproofing. The most "aggressive" are poplar, chestnut, willow. If trees are already growing on the site, then you will have to part with them in advance. It's cheaper than repairing a damaged pool.
Low-growing trees are also undesirable, because you will have to constantly remove the leaves from the bowl, and during the flowering period, the water turns yellow with pollen.
Pay attention to which direction the wind blows most often in your country house, and try to place the pool so that the air moves along the bowl. Then all the dirt and debris will be nailed to one wall, along the edges of which it is recommended to install a drain system.
Try to locate the pool closer to the water supply to make it easier to fill.

Preliminary calculations - sizing

Width and length are determined based on the purpose of the pool. If it is intended for swimming, then a rectangular shape is chosen, making the bowl elongated. If for relaxation, splashing and rest of the whole family, then it is more convenient to communicate in round bowls.

More important criterion- depth. It is believed that in order to feel free, swim easily, turn around under water and jump from the side, you need a one and a half meter depth (and no more!). But ski jumping requires a deeper bowl - at least 2.3 m. True, it is enough to make such a depth in the diving zone, creating a smooth transition from the main size (1.5 m).

If the construction of a pool in the country is intended exclusively for children's recreation, then the depth of the bowl should not exceed half a meter. That's enough for fun games and floundering without health risks.

The most complex design is a combined pool in which everyone will swim. In this case, different depths are created for the children's and adult zones, and both zones must be separated by a solid partition that starts from the very bottom. So you insure against accidental entry of children into the adult zone.

Important! In any pool that has several different depths, it is necessary to make the bottom flat and smoothly transition from one size to another. Sharp jumps in depth are unacceptable for safety reasons. A person, walking along the bottom, can gape and miss the border, beyond which another depth will begin, and in a panic, when the legs instantly go down, the risk of choking is very high.

Choosing a bowl: buy ready-made or make it yourself?

The most time-consuming work is associated with the preparation of the pit and the pouring of the bowl. But manufacturers have figured out how to build a pool in the country faster and easier. They created ready-made bowls that only need to be dug into the ground and fixed. In addition to the obvious plus in ease of installation, ready-made structures are also beneficial in that they are produced in various shapes and colors, which cannot be said about concrete. In addition, during operation, concrete bowls can crack if soil movements begin.

Types of finished bowls: plastic and composite

There are two types for sale. finished bowls: made of plastic and composite. The principle of their installation is absolutely the same. Only differ specifications materials.

The plastic bowl requires additional insulation of the pool walls from the outside

In plastic structures, polypropylene is the main material. It is not afraid of burning out, does not require draining water for the winter, is environmentally friendly, resistant to mechanical stress. A smooth surface prevents the formation of plaque and sediment on the walls and bottom. Such bowls do not require additional interior decoration, because they look aesthetically pleasing. The only negative: if the pool is installed in a place where there is no shade, then polypropylene can expand in the heat, which is why the bottom and walls “go in waves”. But as soon as the temperature drops, the bowl returns to its normal form.

Composite bowls are made of fiberglass, which is not afraid of either frost or heat.

Composite structures do not have this problem. The main material in them is fiberglass, which is bound with polymer resins. All the advantages characteristic of plastic bowls are also characteristic of this material. But there is a small "but": the composite is quite expensive.

DIY bowl options

And yet, some summer residents still prefer bowls that are created on the spot, because it is not always possible to find a container with a size and shape that is ideal for a particular landscape, and very large pools (about 10m in length) cause difficulties in transportation. The vast majority of owners make pools for summer cottages with their own hands from concrete. This item is always on sale. If it is impossible to deliver it to the site in the form of a liquid solution, an ordinary concrete mixer is installed, and a mixture is created on site with the addition of sand.

The bowl made of polystyrene foam blocks is easy to install due to the lightness of the material and keeps the water temperature perfectly

It is possible to create the entire bowl from concrete, including the walls, but this requires a long time and a lot of work to install the formwork and pour.

Resourceful summer residents came up with a simpler arrangement of the pool in the country: they kept only the bottom concrete, and the walls began to be made of polystyrene foam blocks or steel sheets. In the first option, the pool turns out to be warm, since polystyrene foam has low thermal conductivity. Steel walls are very easy to install, as they are sold ready-made with everything additional equipment in the form of a facing film and fastening fittings.

Installation of a pool with a finished bowl

Consider how to make a pool in the country using a factory bowl.

Site marking

We carefully measure the bowl delivered to the site.
We mark the place of the future pit on the ground using pegs and a rope. We drive the pegs into the corners of the future bowl, and we stretch the rope between them. The more non-standard shape of the pool, the more often drive in the pegs.
We retreat from the stretched rope by a meter and make outlines around the entire perimeter (cut off the ground, hammer in new pegs, etc.). It is from this markup that you will begin to dig a pit. Such a margin is needed to make it easier to lower the bowl, insulate its walls and create a solid foundation.
We remove the internal markings and proceed to dig the pit.

Excavation

The pool pit must have a flat and stable bottom, so it is concreted

The pit should be half a meter deeper than the size of the bowl itself. Now we create the base on which we will put the bowl:

Pour the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of coarse sand and tamp.
We lay out a metal mesh for the fortress along the sand and pour a concrete solution over it, 25 centimeters thick. We wait until dry.

The concrete layer with which the bottom is poured must be reinforced so that it does not crack when the soil moves.

After that, we insulate the pool:

We lay geotextiles over the entire concrete base, and three-centimeter slabs of expanded polystyrene over it. They will insulate the bottom of the pool from the cold ground.
On top of the insulation, lay a thick, durable film.
While the bowl is at the top, its walls should be insulated. outer surface walls are “packed” in expanded polystyrene and insulated with polyethylene.

The outer walls of the bowl are insulated with polystyrene foam to isolate from cold ground

Installing the bowl and connecting communications

We lower the prepared bowl to the bottom of the pit.
We connect to the bowl all the necessary communications. We put a protective sleeve on the pipes and fix it with adhesive tape so that it does not move during concreting.

Spacers will not allow the bowl to bend when the concrete reinforcement of the pool is poured; And all pipes must be packed in a protective sleeve so that they do not freeze in winter.

We concrete the remaining voids between the soil and the walls of the pool as follows:

We install spacers inside the bowl so that the plastic or composite does not bend under the pressure of the concrete mass;
We put the formwork, and lay reinforcement along the perimeter;
The solution is not poured all at once, but in layers: we fill 30-40 cm of water into the pool and raise the concrete to the same height. We are waiting for solidification, then water again - and after that concrete. Thus, we bring the concrete layer to the surface of the soil.
We wait a day until the pour solidifies and only then we remove the formwork.
We fill the voids from the formwork with sand, spilling it with water and ramming it.

It remains to ennoble the pool area and let water into it.

For outdoor pools it is advisable to create a hinged roof that will protect you from dirty precipitation, or at least sew an awning with which you will cover the structure when you leave the dacha.

If the arrangement of pools in the country seemed to you a difficult task - buy an inflatable or frame version. These pools are perfect for water recreation, and for the winter you can easily disassemble them and hide them in the attic.