How to put ski bindings on your own. Systems from Salomon and Rotofella

Folk wisdom: "Seven measure once, cut once"

1. SNS and NNN mounts can also be used to find the center of gravity. We use a flat, like a ruler, side and put the end side on the floor. Perpendicularly from above, we set the ski like a scale, moving it longitudinally, we achieve balance. With a weighted mount, it is measured by attaching the mount to the ski, while ensuring that the axis of the center of gravity passes through the fixing groove of the boot, moving the ski and the mount itself along.

2. Having found the center of gravity, we mark perpendicular vertical lines on the ends of the skis on both sides of the attachment to the upper side of the ski and connect them. This can be done with a square, although an error of two millimeters is acceptable for such a length of skis. After that, we do the same procedure with the second ski.

3. There is no difference between the shoes of the new model with fastening directly at the front cut and the former sample, where the fastening is on the ledge - both have the axis of the center of gravity located at the front cut of the boot. It turns out that in old boots the protrusion goes beyond the axis of the center of gravity. It also doesn't matter how you plan to run. The main thing is that in a suspended state the ski does not outweigh either in front or behind. The only exceptions are skiers with experience, who, in order to “increase speed”, slightly shift them back from the axis of the center of gravity. But it takes experience to put it into practice.

4. Modern ski bindings SNS and NNN types have a transverse groove for fixing the metal bar of the boot in its front part. This groove must be aligned with the drawn axis of the center of gravity. Directly below the groove in the center is a longitudinal groove. The middle fastening element is then inserted into it. Its lower bottom part coincides with the center of the rod, and we combine it with our marked line on the upper side of the ski.

5. First you need to unscrew all three screws that are not completely screwed out of the fastening. If the auto-latching SNS Profile Auto are closed and you can’t get close to the third screw, then you need to press the bracket (the latch will move inward), after which you need to insert a thick screwdriver or other suitable tool to prevent the latch from returning. Then we recline the bracket to gain access to the screw. A similar procedure is carried out to remove the binding from the skis.

6. This is followed by fitting to skis by marks and marking with an awl of future holes in the center. Having removed the fasteners, it is necessary to check the middle mark strictly in the middle with a caliper or tape measure. The two rear holes should be equally spaced from the edges. For correction, we make new marks deeper with an awl.

7. Before drilling, we advise you to play it safe and check the depth of the screw entry so as not to pierce the ski through. Subtract the height of the mount and try on the remainder of the ski. If the ski is thin and the length of the standard screws is excessive, then you need to replace them with screws of the required length.

8. On the drill, mark the depth of the planned hole by winding insulating tape if there is no ruler on the drill. The drill should be 3.6 to 4 mm in diameter, depending on the thickness of the screws. Then carefully drill six holes on the entire pair of skis. Why neat, because today skis have a fiberglass honeycomb filling under a few millimeters of a wooden insert for bindings. Therefore, the drill, despite the limiters of the insulating tape or ruler, under pressure can easily slip through. Do not put pressure on the drill while drilling. Skis must first be pressed with a foot or fixed with a clamp to avoid a springing factor. It is necessary to drill strictly vertically, without distortions, without swinging the drill, achieving a clear shape of the holes.

9. Having drilled three holes for each ski, we remove the plastic brackets that unfasten the skis, fasten the fasteners to them with screws, having previously made no more than half, so it will be easier to align. Then with a screwdriver we tighten it with a little effort, there is still a certain risk of breaking them. We check the tightness of the connection. Nothing should hang out.

Note: Do not use glue as it is only suitable for wooden skis, moreover, a lot of them negatively affect modern interiors. A thick six-millimeter screw tightly closes the hole, and prevents moisture from entering. And the edges of the screws have time to wear out before something can rot inside the ski.

10. Install the removed bracket in place by inserting the lower end into the loop, then pressing the bracket down with force until a characteristic click. Carefully! Don't pinch your fingers. Next, we assemble the fastening elements, removing the screws beforehand - there are two in the middle element, and one in the last one. We install end-to-end elements, closing the previous screws. We mark the holes in the same way with an awl, remove the elements, drill, fasten the screws, setting the fastening elements end-to-end until they stop. After screwing the last “thrust”, the hole is closed with a plug.

Good luck on the ski!

Bindings are an important piece of ski equipment. As a rule, the installation of bindings is done by a store, however, some skiers prefer to do it themselves. Let's find out how they do it.

Types of ski bindings

There are three types of ski bindings:

Rigid (welted) - Nordic Norm 75 mm.
Semi-rigid - straps, elastic bands and buckles.
Systemic:
- SNS Salomon
- NN Rotofella

Since the first two types are gradually falling out of use due to their total imperfection and moral old age, there is no need to talk about them. It is much more interesting to talk about system mounts.

It is worth noting that if the skier decides to install the NN 75mm, the installation instructions below will suit him.

Systems from Salomon and Rotofella

These binding systems have a different number of longitudinal components, functionality and boot stabilization indicators, and are also presented in various modifications. They are great for cross-country skiing - the most common in skiing.

Rotofella system NNN appeared somewhat later than NN 75mm. The fastening and stabilization of the boots is carried out here, thanks to two longitudinal guides. The functionality of these mounts is not inferior to NN.
In SNS Salomon only one hinge is used. Due to the nature of the soles of the boots, designed for such bindings, the skier can control the ski, making any move. This is the most modern version of ski bindings.

There are no significant disadvantages or advantages between these systems. They are more convenient, more practical and more modern than their predecessors, so they cost a little more.

How to install bindings on cross-country skis yourself

To install the fasteners, you will first need the following inventory:

cross-country skis and fastenings on them;
Paper template for marking or jig;
Screwdriver (cross bit + drill 3.4 - 3.6 mm);
Marker;
PVA glue;
Ruler;
Awl.

Installation instructions

Installation of ski bindings takes place in several stages.

Step 1: Center of Gravity

The first step is to determine the center of gravity of the skis. To do this, the ski is installed on the edge of the ruler and moves along this surface until the skis freeze, like balanced scales, parallel to the floor.

The middle lines of balance should be marked with a marker. The marked line will coincide with the axis of the bracket attachment.

Step 2: Markup

The next step is to mark the holes on the ski platform. This action is performed using a paper template, which is usually supplied with the mounts. If it wasn’t on your hands, it doesn’t matter, you can download it from the Internet, or mark the ski with an awl, attaching the assembled mount so that the center of gravity coincides with the axis of fixation of the shoe.

At the same time, in the NNN system, the holes are located in front of the axis of the center of gravity, and in the SNS, the axis lies directly under the mount. For professional marking, a conductor is used.

Step 3: Drill holes

Before drilling, you should check the distance between the holes located on the mount with the distance between the points marked during marking.

Holes for Rottefella are drilled with a drill with a diameter of 3.4 mm, and for Salomon - 3.6 mm. The depth of the holes is 10 mm. Drilling is performed at medium speed with light pressure. To ensure reliable fixation, the finished holes are blown and then filled with glue.

Step 5: Assembly

Now that the holes are ready, you need to attach the fasteners and tighten the screws tightly. After that, the ski is left to dry (about 10-12 hours).

Now cross-country skiing ready for use. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in this. The main thing is to exercise caution and attentiveness, as well as to have all the necessary tools.

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How to install ski bindings

The performance characteristics of the skis depend on how to put the bindings on cross-country skis, as well as on the quality of their performance. The skis presented in modern stores have a special platform that ensures secure fixation. sports shoes. Even if you are perfect, installing them incorrectly can damage the structure of the ski, shortening its life and strength.

What tools are needed to install fasteners?

Everyone can cope with the installation of bindings on cross-country skis with their own hands. To do this, you will need the following set of tools:

template for perfectly precise drilling of holes;
ruler or corner to determine the center of the ski;
drill with drills 3.4-3.5 mm;
marker or pencil;
special glue or simple PVA;
screwdriver or screwdriver.

How to place the mount correctly?

For cross-country skiing today, there are several of the most popular systems for attaching boots to cross-country skis:

SNS - produced by Salomon;
NNN - produced by Rottefella;
NIS - Made by Madshus and others.

Ways to install different mounting systems on skis can be different, but there are certain requirements that are always the same:

ski boots must be securely fastened to the skis;
the system should provide high maneuverability and ease of control when driving;
the mount should increase the strength of the ski at the place of its installation.

With a ruler, you need to measure the center of the ski and mark it with a pencil. To mark the holes for screwing in the mounting bolts, use a template or a special jig - this is very convenient and fast. Install a jig suitable for the type of fastening you have chosen - SNS or NNN. Carefully measured and marked center of gravity must coincide with a special mark on the conductor.

If there is no conductor, make a template from cardboard or thick paper (sometimes the mounts are sold with a ready-made template). If it is not available, attach the mount to the ski so that the center of gravity mark on the ski is aligned with the mark on the template. The same applies to the axis of attachment of the boot bracket. The holes present on the template must be marked with a pencil or pushed with an awl. This markup option is not the most accurate, so it's best not to use it.

Modern mounts may have moving elements, therefore, mark the holes for the screws on which the platform rests, should be when the mount is assembled and closed. Otherwise, the holes will move about a centimeter.

After the holes for the ski bindings are marked, we proceed to drill them. You can make holes with a drill with speed control and special drills of a suitable diameter and with a depth gauge. A special drill has an extension that centers it in the hole of the jig and stops when it reaches a certain depth.

Holes should be drilled at low speed with a slight pressure. For installation fasteners NNN a hole with a diameter of 3.4 mm is required, and under the SNS - 3.6 mm. In both cases, the depth of the hole is exactly a centimeter.

How to install bindings on cross-country skis

If you are wondering how to mount cross-country ski bindings, remember the following information. Before installation, you need to fill the holes made with glue, which fills all the cracks, providing strength and protecting the internal structure of the ski from water. Without proper hole protection, moisture will seep into the holes and be sucked into the ski cavity, causing rotting from the inside. This usually happens with products that have a honeycomb structure or are made from natural materials.

You can buy special branded glue, but ordinary PVA is also suitable. Epoxy resins should not be used, as the solvent can damage the structure of the ski. The mount is screwed to the ski as efficiently as possible so that there is not the slightest backlash. After that, the glue should dry within a day.

NIS brand ski bindings

Every skier should know how to put bindings on cross-country skis. The use of NIS mounts greatly simplifies the work process and allows you to adjust the position of the platform for ski boots.

NIS mounts can only be installed on special skis that have a special platform. Similar models are produced by Madshus and some others. During installation, the ski mount should be guided along the guides until a characteristic click occurs. A thrust bearing is also installed along the guides, which is fixed in a suitable position with a special key from the kit.

Mounting a thrust bearing on inexpensive models of ski bindings does not require special tools. The NIS system provides the ability to select the correct location of the binding on the skis, taking into account the characteristics of the track and weather. You can change position before each ski trip or workout.

You bought yourself skis, bindings, boots and poles. If everything is clear with boots and sticks, then many people ask the question - how to properly attach bindings to skis?

First, let's prepare the tools. We will need:

Ruler or pencil (with their help we will determine the center of gravity of the ski);
Marker;
Screwdriver or drill;
A thin drill with a diameter of 3-4 mm (it is better to take a C grade)
Curly screwdriver (the same cue ball for a screwdriver);
Smooth hands.

Let's start by determining the center of gravity of the ski. We put on flat surface pre-prepared ruler or pencil, put the ski on it. We catch a place on the ski in which the ski will keep balance. This is the center of gravity, do not forget to mark it with a marker. If you suddenly shifted a couple of millimeters to the side, it's okay. We repeat the same procedure with the second ski.

After we have marked the center of gravity on the skis, we attach the mount to the ski so that the boot attachment mechanism is strictly on our mark. Pros move the mount a little back for more speed when moving. We will not do this, since our task is to get as much fun as possible, and not a time trial on the Olympic track. Attached? Have you checked? Now we put marks on the ski in the mounting holes, where we will screw the screws. Check again if you have set the labels correctly.

We coped with this task, we proceed to the preparation of mounting holes for screws on skis. We drill shallow holes according to the marks for the screws. Do not overdo it, you do not need to drill through the ski, the depth of the hole should be no more than a centimeter. If you did everything right, you will see some neat holes for our screws.

We proceed to the installation of fasteners. We combine the holes on the mount with the drilled holes on the ski and screw the screws into the ski. You don’t need to tighten it right away, leave the screws a little loose. Check if the mount is properly attached to the ski. The mount must be level, without displacement to the sides. Is everything right? Tighten the screws firmly. Top screws can be filled with epoxy or glue "moment" and let it dry. We do the same operations with the second ski.

This completes our guide. As you can see, attaching bindings to skis is not so difficult. But if you doubt your abilities, the specialists of the center active rest MotoTime will install the mounts for you. You can also buy skis and all ski accessories in the online store at a much lower price than in the offline store. Hurry, winter will end soon!

Installation of ski bindings - every Soviet citizen had to master this art, because during the Soviet era there were no special workshops for this. And it never occurred to anyone, especially an experienced tourist, to ask for paid help in this elementary matter. Moreover, earlier, as now, the kit included instructions for installing ski bindings.

The correct installation of ski bindings begins with reading it, which is usually done. We advise you to strictly follow the step-by-step recommendations, which take into account the specifics of installation, depending on their type.

But if you managed to lose the instructions - read our story with step by step photos which details the installation of semi-rigid ski bindings.

Useful articles:

Semi-rigid ski mount: how to install correctly?

Step 1. Find the ski's center of gravity by resting it on any small object, such as a building block or a screwdriver handle. It should be balanced - the toe and heel should hang in the air. Above this place, draw a line on the ski. This will be the center of gravity.

Step 2. Take the mount, put it on the ski so that its front edge lies on the outlined line. Carefully, without moving the mount from its place, insert into it the boot in which you are going to go hiking (if you are going to go in shoe covers, then so be it). Adjust so that the sole of the boot, its toe and heel are in the center of the ski. Only in this case you are guaranteed the correct installation of ski bindings.

Step 3 Carefully, while holding the binding in this position, remove the boot. Immediately mark with a pencil through the holes in the fasteners. Using these marks, drill small holes with a drill (drill 1.5-2 mm in diameter). Or make them with an awl.

Tighten the screws supplied in the kit to the fasteners with a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

Step 4 Attach the cable and insert the boot into the binding. Unwind the frog slider as much as possible so that it is at the very end of the bolt.

Insert the rope into the slider. Clip the frog and pull it with your hand as far as possible to the tip of the ski. Mark the location of the hole closest to the nose for installing the frog. The second will be closed by the frog, so first drill one hole (but not through, no more than 5 mm deep), screw a screw into it, then open the frog and screw the second screw in place of the second hole.

Step 5 Twist the slider so that the frog has enough strength to snap in and the boot sits tightly in the mount. Place a heel under the heel of the boot. Insert the strap into the cheek slots. Ready! Installation of ski bindings successfully completed!

Useful articles:

Created by competing companies: SNS from SALOMON and NNN from ROTTEFELLA. Is there some more Russian version walking mounts 75 mm. All other designations are just modifications of these types. When installing ski mounts, there are four main requirements for them:
1) good handling and maneuverability;
2) reliable connection of two components - shoes and skis;
3) maintaining strength at the place of installation of the fastener;
4) The minimum possible weight;

It must be clarified that the characteristics of the ski directly depend not only on the correct installation of the mount, but also on its position.

Both SNS and NNN have a huge range of binding models that cater to a wide variety of levels. sports training skiers. Depending on the purpose of the fasteners, they can differ in strength, weight and rigidity of fixing shoes.

All modern models connect the boot and the binding with a special bracket, which is located in the sole of the shoe and which is clamped by the binding. For all standards of cross-country bindings, the rule is that the axis of the binding and the axis of the center of gravity of the ski must be aligned. That is why all ski manufacturers are guided by this rule and make their products so that when the axes are aligned, they show the best performance. In this case, the strength of the entire structure will be maximum. An important factor will be the golden mean in terms of stiffness and elasticity, as well as good handling.

Modern conveyor ski production does not always allow achieving complete product identity, especially when skis are made from natural material. In this context, the creation of the NIS standard seems especially important, which greatly simplifies the mounting process and reduces the risk of incorrect installation.

Often, skis in the area of installation of bindings have a platform that adds strength to the ski and provides good fixation of the binding. However, inexperienced skiers often move this platform when installing the binding. This can cause serious damage to the ski and may result in injury. Therefore, the installation of the ski mount should be carried out using a special tool that will avoid mistakes.

To install the mounts, you will need at least:

paper template for marking; Ideally, a special conductor.
ruler;
drill with the desired diameter (3.4 - 3.6 mm); Ideally, a special drill with a stop for deburring. (If the burrs are not removed, then there is a possibility of misalignment of the fastener during installation)
glue; Flexible moisture resistant.
screwdriver;
drill;
skis and bindings.

Markup process.

However, we strongly do not recommend beginners to markup without a template - this is fraught with inaccuracy with all the ensuing negative consequences. Also, do not forget that some parts of the fastening can be displaced and therefore the marking for the platform clamps must be done with the fastening closed. Otherwise, the offset may be several centimeters.

Professional jig template for mounting fixtures.

Do not forget that each standard (NNN and SNS) has its own template and conductor, which are seriously different from each other.

drilling process.

For such fine work, it is desirable to have not a simple drill, but with speed control, as well as drills that clearly fit the diameter and depth of the final hole. In specialized workshops, equipment is used that allows you to center the drill and stop it exactly at the desired depth.
Usually, a 3.6 mm drill is used to install SNS mounts, and 3.4 mm for NNN. Hole depth - 10 mm.

In addition, a special drill cuts off the burrs that remain on the paintwork of the ski. If you use a conventional drill and do not remove the burrs, then when installing the fastener, distortion may occur and the fastener will not fasten correctly.

Fastening installation.

Before installing the fastener, it is necessary to fill all the holes with special glue, which will cover all the cracks left after the screw is screwed in. Thus, it will be additional waterproofing and durability (otherwise, the moisture that will get there will begin to cause rotting processes from the inside).

In professional centers, craftsmen use specialized glue from Salomon and Rottefella. But in principle, it is even possible to use ordinary PVA - it can also ensure the tightness of the structure. And here epoxy resins should not be used.. They can damage important structural elements of the ski. The mount is fixed completely - no backlash can be left. After installation, the adhesive should dry for about 9-12 hours.

Installation of mounts on the NIS platform.

To simplify the installation of mounts, which also allows adjustment of the position of the mount depending on the center of gravity. Now skis with such platforms are produced by manufacturers Rossignol and Madshus.

It is necessary to start the mount along special guides until it clicks, which indicates that it has fallen into place. In exactly the same way, you need to install the thrust bearing. But for this you need a special key that comes with the kit.

The NIS platform allows you to vary the attachment point not only depending on the type of ski, but also depending on weather conditions and the condition of the track. You can change the position using a special key, shifting it a few "clicks" in the desired direction and fixing it.

Reliability, ease and speed of installation - these are the three main advantages that this binding platform gives the skier.

Installation of bindings on skis purchased from us is carried out on professional equipment for free!

If you have a modern style NNN or SNS mount from Salomon, then you are in luck. Since they themselves can determine the center of gravity of the ski. It is enough to take a ski, find its thinnest part (like a ruler) and put it on the floor with an edge, then take the second ski and put it across, it is very desirable to put it at a right angle. After that, we observe the process of how the scales work (the front and rear ends of the ski should hang in the air at the same height). But if you purchased a heavy enough mount, then you should measure the center of gravity a little differently. With the first ski, everything is so accurate, but the second must be put through the boot fixation groove.

Once the skis are in position, you will need to mark a perpendicular line on the top side of the ski, and always above the binding itself. Repeat this procedure with the second ski. We read on and give an answer to the question, how to properly install ski mounts?

So, now you need to determine the center of gravity of the boot. It is important to understand whether it is old or modern. The first should be fixed at the very cut of the boot, while the second center of gravity is set along the cut of the boot. But we are guided by the SNS standard mounts, do not be alarmed, there is absolutely no difference for others. Other than that, it doesn't matter what style you use when running. Find a rod on the boot that will fit into a special groove in the mount, it is this groove that should be located where we have the center of gravity of the ski.

By the way, under this groove, in the center, there is another groove in which the middle part of the mount is attached. Then we take the mount, apply it to our markup and in the places where the screws should be, we make small holes with an awl. Once marked, you can remove the mount and check if the center mark is the same as the center, and the back marks are equally spaced from the edges. We repeat the operation with the second one so that you can install the bindings on the skis.

We take, lived and measure how deep the screw will go into the ski - this is done so that the ski would not be drilled through later. When measured, we take a drill with a diameter of 6-4 mm, as small as possible and drill. Important: after measuring the depth, mark it with electrical tape, or it’s generally fine if there is a ruler on the drill.

Now that we have 3 finished holes in each ski, we can remove the plastic bracket that unfastens the ski. Then we fix the mount in it with a screwdriver. You don't need to screw it all the way in, just about half way. By the way, don't use glue. Previously, skis were wooden, but on modern skis glue is detrimental.

We put the removed bracket in place. We assemble the mount and install the “butt” while closing the previous screws, until it stops. Do not forget to mark the holes on both skis, and then fasten the bolts (you definitely won’t need glue here). After all this, we close the "heels" with plugs. That's all, I hope you succeeded.

In this article we will talk about installing mounts on ski rollers. What set of tools do you need to have for all this action?

There is a little trick. The screw is problematically screwed into the metal (into the rollerski platform). We lubricate it with some viscous substance (for example, I always use ski wax), and everything will go like clockwork.

If you do not go into details - it works general rule to install bindings (both for classic rollerskis and skate skis): the ski binding assembly is applied to the platform of the rollerski against the rear mudguard and a mark is made for drilling the screw of the front of the bindings. Next, we make marks for the screws in accordance with the holes of the fasteners (if there is a jig, then along its holes).

Use a drill with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm.

For SNS (Atomic, Salomon) Mounts - The front mounting screw must be 14.5 cm away from the front fender rivet.

For “NNN” fasteners (Rottefella, Fischer) – The front screw is drilled at a distance of 17 cm from the front mudguard rivet.

SWENOR have their own table for mounting bindings on roller skis. The table shows that for metal platforms use a 4mm drill, for fiberglass platforms a 3.6mm drill. Depending on the model of roller skis and the type of bindings, the distance from the beginning of the platform (the starting point of measurement is different for metal and fiberglass platforms) to the groove of the bindings (the place where the boot is clamped into the binding) is indicated. Take measurements from the back of the platform!

If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help!

A little reminder on the care of roller skis.

After use in wet weather, rinse with clean water and apply a sufficient amount of grease to the bearings, rotate the wheels so that the grease is evenly distributed, then dry. Roller skis must be stored in a dry place, avoiding direct sunlight on the wheels, because. some tend to deform. Always check the integrity of the wheels, fasteners and the reliability of the nuts on the axle before training.

Both at a professional and amateur level - perhaps one of the most popular ways of winter pastime for a huge number of people. Someone prefers to actively relax at the nearest rental point for this sports equipment, well, while someone purposefully goes to the famous ski resorts, in principle, for the same.

What determines the choice of attachment?

Of course, one of the main roles in high-quality and enjoyable skiing is played directly by the equipment itself. The range of skis today is very large, and they differ both in brands of manufacturers and in their purpose (cross-country, mountain, jumping). The price range is also wide, so you should immediately decide on the amount planned for the purchase.

Sometimes fans of winter skiing face a very serious problem. How to properly install ski bindings? You can also entrust the installation process to specialists, but if you want to save some of the financial resources and just gain additional experience, you should understand the technology of this work yourself.

What is a ski binding made of?

The design of this element, which is designed to ensure safety, includes the heel and front head, which must be adjusted in accordance with the parameters of a particular person (weight, boot size, etc.).

On the mount itself there are special pins, the function of which is to fix the boot. There are also special braces and bends that allow the foot to move freely inside, but do not allow it to slip off. Usually these elements are in the form of a toe of a boot, which cannot but have a positive effect on the comfort of riding.

The heel of the binding is designed to provide the skier with safety during falls. In modern designs, this ability is called vertical elasticity. In addition, with the help of this part of the mount, the level of vibrations entering the boot is significantly reduced.

How to ensure the installation of the latch?

So, the correct mounting of skis is carried out partly with the help of proper drilling. You need to do this not by eye and not with the use of labels. Often, a special jig can be purchased from the manufacturer, thanks to which a good result will be guaranteed.

For making holes, there is a large selection of drills, each of which is suitable for one or another type of ski: section 4.1x9.5 mm for metal coatings, 3.5x9.5 for wood, and 3.5x7 mm will be a good solution for junior sports equipment, the thickness of which is less than that of adult models.

After drilling all the necessary holes in the ski canvas, a small amount of glue is added to each of them, and then the mount itself is already mounted. The screws must fit snugly, without shifting.

This information can be helpful when thinking about how to mount your ski binding.

Cross-country skiing: installing bindings

It is these elements that make it possible to clearly transfer forces and set the direction of sliding when moving both in a classic style and in a ridge one. It is very important to focus on how to properly install ski bindings for running, because without this knowledge, even well-chosen equipment will not only bring absolutely no joy from skiing, but can also put the owner in serious danger.

One of them is the outdated Nordic Norm 75mm, called "welted" by the masses. Its main advantage is a relatively low price, but otherwise its technical characteristics leave much to be desired. It fixes the foot poorly and, despite the rigid fastening of the toe of the boot, the entire sole slides due to insufficient lateral and longitudinal stability. Skate style running in this case is almost impossible, and the classic one comes out a little better. This installation of bindings on will not bring the owner pleasure from riding, so you should pay attention to the other two types of clamps.

These samples belong to the models of a new, innovative generation. These include the SNS system and the NNN system.

It will be quite difficult to compare these two mounts, since each of them is an extremely high performance device.

The operation of these two systems is based on the technology of using flexors and guides, which greatly simplifies the task of how to put the fasteners. On skis with such clamps, the sole of the boot lies firmly and comfortably, and additional stabilization when skiing and classic, and gives a feeling of confidence and greatly facilitates the process of movement.

Functional features of SNS and NNN mounting systems

The level of fixation of each of these two samples is touring, sometimes even equipped with an automatic fastening. This option is perfect for amateur skiers whose skiing skills are not yet too well developed.

The SNS system appeared a little earlier, and its main difference is that the fastening design includes only one longitudinal component, while the NNN type has two.

It's no secret that the main difference between cross-country and alpine skis is the connection between the boots of the former and one or another type of binding. And since the differences between the two above-mentioned systems are quite insignificant, here the emphasis should be placed solely on the choice of shoes. Having decided on how to correctly install ski bindings, you should choose boots that will match your skiing style and differ in unique comfort and design, and only then figure out the standard of their fixation.

Ski bindings

This type of sports equipment is suitable, as the name implies, only for skiing on the slopes. Such skis are not suitable for running, as they have different length and width parameters, and also differ from other samples in their technical characteristics. But, one way or another, it is extremely important to know how to put bindings on skis of this type, since descents from the peaks require an increased level of safety, which can only be ensured by securely fixing the entire structure on the leg.

How to install ski bindings

In order to avoid a poor-quality result of work, all actions for equipment of this type must be performed strictly according to the following instructions:

1. In the center of gravity of the ski, which you can find with your own hands, a line is drawn.

2. The fastener is laid so that its front edge reaches just up to the drawn mark. A boot is carefully inserted into the retainer, which is adjusted so that its entire base is located in the center, since only in this case the installation of bindings on skiing will be correct.

3. Then the boot is removed, and at its location, small holes are made through the holes in the latch, which can be made with an awl or drill with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm in diameter. Then, using a screwdriver or a screwdriver, the screws included in the kit are wrapped.

4. The boot is tightly fixed in the holes made. At the same time, it is important to follow the entire algorithm of actions so that at the end of the whole work the latch is moderately rigid, comfortably fits the leg and meets all the requirements of safety standards when riding.

This manual will help you figure out how to properly install ski bindings designed for riding in the mountains and steep slopes.

The simplest ski binding is the toe strap. But such a fastening is very unreliable - it is no coincidence that the boys always attach elastic bands to the strap or simply tie it with a string.

A belt mount equipped with a heel strap has the advantage that it allows you to use any shoes for skiing, and especially felt boots.

More advanced is the tourist mount with side metal braces and an adjustable heel strap. It can be used on recreational skis and does not require special ski boots.

Rigid welt fastening is much more convenient. A special ski boot is put on spikes and pressed against the welt with a bow. Such fastenings quickly and reliably connect the boot to the ski, do not constrain the heel, and at the same time provide good ski control. They are put on sports and cross-country and walking skis.

For skiing, bindings are needed that tightly attach the boot to the ski. Skiers usually tie their boots tightly with straps. A beginner skier should not do this.

Ski bindings consist, as a rule, of metal brackets adjustable in width, equipped with welt holders. Recently, instead of fixed brackets, movable toe welt holders have been used, which automatically release the leg when it falls.

Rice. 5. Ski bindings (from top to bottom) tourist, welt, ski bindings springs and straps

The boot, fixed in the toe with a welt holder, is tightly fastened to the ski with a cable pulled with the help of a toe lock - a “frog”. The necessary tension is created by a spring located in the toe of the cable or on the "frog" itself. It is not recommended to use a cable with a heel spring - it does not hold the foot well and spoils the boots. In order for the cable to better press the boot to the cargo area, it is passed through hooks installed on the side surfaces of the ski. A pair of hooks near the front of the heel allow the boot to be securely attached for turning. Pair of hooks at the base thumb legs, provides heel lift, which is important during a long transition on alpine skiing on level ground. If necessary, the cable is passed through the front or rear hooks.

Recently, ski bindings have become widespread, having only a toe welt holder and a heel latch. When dropped, they automatically open.

For young children, bindings with metal brackets placed on the soles of old sandals are best suited. The entire front part of the sandals is cut off and only the sole and heel with straps are left. Any children's shoes are included in such bindings. Crampons equipped with a toe strap and a sandal heel strap securely and securely hold the foot and allow good control of the ski.

Rice. 6. Child ski bindings

Instead of sandals, you can use material such as linoleum, cutting off a strip from it equal to the width of the ski and the length of children's shoes (with a margin), and sewing on the heel and strap. A boot with a mount is put on a ski. Brackets are installed between the boot and a strip of linoleum, holes for the screws are marked, then, having removed the boot, the brackets are strengthened with screws.

For older children, you can use school mounts that are sold in stores. If a child wears shoes of size 33 and above, then adult bindings are already suitable for him.

Now you need to solve a difficult question: where to put the mounts?

First of all, you need to find the center of gravity of the ski. For this ski sliding surface put on the edge of a ruler or pencil. The place where it will take the position of balance will be its center of gravity. It is marked with a cross line.

The mount should be installed so that the ends of the toes are shifted from the center of gravity to the heel of the skis by a distance of 1-1.5 cm.

The simplest rule, applicable to almost all skis, is that the toe of the boot should be on the line of the center of gravity. Offset is allowed only to the back of the ski. This makes it easier to bring the ski into the turn. But you should not get carried away with this, otherwise the ski socks will greatly pull the foot and tire the legs.

Rice. 7. Determining the center of gravity of the ski

Rice. 8. Marking the sole of the boot for welt fastening

Before installing the welt mount along the ski cargo area, it is necessary to draw a center line. The same line is drawn on the boot. It will pass between the first two toes to the middle of the heel, where, just like on the toe, light notes are made. Then, staples are put on the boot, from which the bow was previously removed, so that the front welt coincides with the edge of the staple. If the staples are one-piece, they are pressed against the boot. A boot with staples is placed on the ski. Having aligned their middle lines and accurately marking the position of the staples on the ski, the boot is removed, and staples are placed on the marks just obtained. Holes for screws are marked through the holes in the brackets on the ski. Then a hole for the screw is made with a drill. In order not to drill through the ski through, the estimated depth of the hole is marked on the drill with an insulating tape. The diameter of the hole should be less than the diameter of the screw by about a millimeter. Then the screws are lubricated ski wax and at first cautiously, and then in full force rolled up to failure. They put a bow on the staples; insert a shoe. Moving forward from failure, it is centered, making sure that the side welt evenly touches the walls of the brackets. Closing the bow so that it completely touches the welt, they press hard on it.

After doing this operation several times, the boot is removed. On the soles there are dents from the spikes. According to these dents, holes are made in the sole with a drill or a hot nail, which strictly correspond to the diameter of the spikes and in no case pass through. Putting the boot on the spikes and closing the bow, put a comb on the end of its middle division and mark the holes for the screws on the ski, with which it is fixed on the ski. Having attached the comb, the boot is snapped into place and an elastic band is nailed under its heel. The elastic should be the size of the heel. It is recommended to nail it around the entire perimeter so that it bubbles a little - then snow will not accumulate under the heel.

The second ski is marked on the first. The rest of the operations are exactly the same.

If you have to install the mount for the first time, then first you need to practice on a board similar in size to the ski's cargo area. It is necessary to do everything that was described earlier, you should not just drill holes in the boot.

When installing bindings on alpine skis, the central plate of the bracket is placed so that its front edge coincides with the line of the center of gravity or is shifted 1-2 cm back. Holes are marked on the ski and, having placed side cheeks with a welt holder, they are fixed on the plate, adjusting the position along the boot. The boot is placed on the ski so that its toe and back are exactly on the axis. Having strengthened the cheeks, they insert the boot into the bracket and put a cable on its heel. The cable should be fixed on the middle divisions of the front latch, called the “frog”, and the “frog” itself, in a half-open position, is installed on the ski, in front of the boot. Having chosen the slack of the cable, they mark the installation site of the "frog" at first only on one or two screws. Having strengthened the “frog” with these screws, they close it. On the side surfaces of the ski, places for hooks are marked. They should be deployed along the cable. By placing hooks and nailing or gluing an elastic band under the heel of the boot, the “frog” is snapped into place. If the cable passing through the rear hooks holds the boot tightly and allows you to easily close the “frog”, the installation of the bindings can be considered finished. It is only necessary to strengthen the “frog” with additional screws. If the adjustment of the cable does not allow you to securely attach the boot and all possible tension options have been exhausted, the “frog” is rearranged to a new location.

A ski binding with a front automatic mount is placed on the skis so that the boot rests on the center of gravity of the ski or is shifted 1-2 cm back. The rest of the mounting procedure remains the same.

For an amateur skier, the best mount is spring-loaded, with an automatic head. This type of binding allows you to quickly remove and put on skis and provides safety, especially if the "frog" has a device that opens the binding when falling forward.

Many hobbyists also use strap attachments with a rotating heel and an automatic crown. This mount is safe and holds well ankle joint. However, if necessary, it is inconvenient to take off and put on skis often, since it takes a lot of time to tighten the straps.

When installing fastenings with a rotating heel on skis, make sure that when fastening the “frog” heel spring, the boot is pressed firmly enough against the head. Otherwise, it will always jump out of the mount. When winding, the belt is led through the heel to the ring opposite from the place where the belt is fastened. From there, they are directed back, they wrap around the Achilles tendon in a helical manner and wrap around the ankle, and then again lead back through the Achilles tendon to the ring and the place where the belt is fastened. From here, through the rise, the belt is directed to the clasp, after which the heel spring is closed.

When rearranging the mounts, old holes in the ski should be sealed with wooden plugs.

When installing the mount on metal or plastic skis, special screws with self-tapping threads are used. If there are no such screws, threads are cut in the holes of the skis with a tap and ordinary screws for metal are used.

Ski poles are selected quite simply - their length should reach the armpits. This rule is suitable for all types of skis. For walks it is recommended to use light reed sticks. For skiers, duralumin or steel poles with a conical or spindle-shaped profile are better suited. They must have securely reinforced rings and comfortable leather hand loops. The pins of the sticks should be sharp enough.

Rice. 9. Ski poles

Bindings are metal cleats that attach to the skis and buckle straps designed to hold the shoes in the cleat. This type of binding is quite common, as they are reliable and suitable for any shoe, that is, special shoes are not required. Semi-rigid bindings are less durable and comfortable than rigid bindings, and they are also heavier.

Rigid bindings are designed for special ski boots, but can be adapted to fit a variety of boots. The location of the spikes and dimensions are standard.

How to install ski bindings

To install ski mounts on your own, first of all, you need to determine the center of gravity of the ski. To do this, you need to turn it over, put it in the middle on the sharp edge of a knife or ruler and move the object along the ski until it takes on an equilibrium position (the ski should stand horizontally). Mark the found line on the outside.

After the center of gravity is determined, proceed to next step installation. Usually, a template is included with the binding, with which you can mark the position of each screw hole in order to install the bindings on the skis correctly. This is where the previously noted center of gravity line comes in handy: it determines the correct location of the template on the ski.

After marking the location of the screws, drill holes that are slightly less than the length of the screws. They need to pour a small amount of epoxy resin (sometimes a special glue is included in the package). Now you can screw on the mount.

Checking

It is always necessary to check whether the fasteners are installed correctly. To do this, grab the boot and lift it and the attached ski. If you did everything right, its front part will outweigh, and the cargo area will press against the sole of the boot.

Tip 2: How to install ski bindings for skating

When buying new skis, you have to deal with installing mounts on them. In stores, of course, they offer to install mounts for purchased skis but this comes with additional costs. Put mounts yourself - not such a difficult task, the main thing is to carefully calculate all the parameters and follow in detail the instructions attached to the purchased mounts m.

ski trips- a favorite form of winter recreation. Even an inveterate lover of a hot summer will not refuse to breathe fresh air in the snowy forest. What can we say about those who cannot imagine their life without skis!

It should be noted that currently skiing in our country actively developing, and the stores offer a wide range of equipment for its different types. Someone prefers ski race, and some, on the contrary, like leisurely walks. There are those to whom the flat terrain seems boring and they ride from the mountains. Mention should also be made of tourists making winter skiing trips.

For all these activities needed different types skiing, and the higher the level of the athlete, the more stringent his equipment requirements. The smallest nuances are taken into account, which beginners and amateurs may not even suspect.

In the existing variety of skis and related sports, everyone can choose the most suitable one for themselves, and ordinary cross-country skiing will surely win the palm.

Still, fans of skiing need to look for places where you can ride, and amateur ski tourism is a pleasure for everyone. But treadmills can be used in the nearest park or forest and do it at least every weekend. Especially gambling can even take part in some local competitions!

So, in order to diversify your winter leisure, it is enough to buy the necessary clothes and equipment: skis, poles and bindings. Here it is worth dwelling on them in more detail.

Ski bindings and their types

Mounts- This is a very important element of the ski structure. They transmit forces from the foot to the ski, set the direction of sliding. The older generation probably remembers the models of their grandfather's model: a belt clamp was attached to the ski, which fixed the leg with an elastic band at the back. The only plus of such “inventions” is that they could be worn on any shoes, even on felt boots. And if we compare the described samples with modern ones, then the importance of the role of fasteners will be quite obvious: they provide comfort and stability at any move.

The three main types of cross-country ski bindings are:

Nordic Norm 75mm, or the so-called welt. This is an outdated model that is gradually falling into disuse. Connoisseurs of such antiques and an extremely low price prevent it from finally saying goodbye to it.

NNN system from Roteffella appeared later and has two longitudinal guides that stabilize the boot. In terms of functionality, it is in no way inferior to the previous version.

SNS system from Salomon, with one longitudinal guide. This is a modern fastening standard high level. The soles of the boots for such bindings allow the foot control the ski at any stroke.

The last two systems are now the most in demand, but there are no obvious advantages or disadvantages compared to each other, so you can choose any. At a price they will cost more than NN75, but they are much more convenient and practical, and save on installation these fasteners. Usually in the instructions it is recommended to seek help from specialists, but such an operation is quite possible to perform on your own. All you need is a little confidence and the right tool:

Skis and bindings;
Markup template;
Screwdriver with a blunt cross bit and drill;

Ruler;
Marker;
PVA glue.
Awl;

Mounting order

For all types of bindings, you first need to find the center of gravity of the skis. On some models, the manufacturer has already marked this place, but it is usually advised not to trust the factory branding. Such balancing is necessary for a normal comfortable ride, when the ski does not “outweigh” in any direction. Finding the center of gravity carried out very simply. It is necessary to install the ski on the edge, for example, of a ruler, and move along it until the “scales” freeze parallel to the floor. The ruler in this case will indicate the center of gravity, which will need to be marked with a marker.

So, the desired point is found. In modern models, the line of the center of gravity coincides with the axis of the fastening of the boot bracket, so you need to attach the front part of the fastening to the ski and mark it with a marker correct position . If it is necessary to install Nordic Norm 75, then two screws of the fastening bracket must be located on the marked line. In other words, it is necessary to place the device so that the edge of the big toe is on the line of balance.

An important step is marking the holes. For him ideal option there will be the use of a special conductor, which allows you to accurately find the position of the fasteners. If there is no such conductor, then a paper template is also suitable, which are usually equipped with fasteners. In the case when it is not there, you will have to mark the ski with an awl through the holes in the mount attached to it. By the way, since the mount consists of elements that move relative to each other, it should be used for marking in assembled form, so that later there is no mismatch in size.

Check for self-control. A drilled ski cannot be restored back, so an extra check will not hurt. Having measured the distance between the holes on the mount, you need to compare them with similar parameters on the finished layout.

Drilling holes according to the marks made. Usually, the instructions indicate how deep the screws need to be drilled, and what length and diameter the drill should be. If there is no suitable length, you can take any and wrap it with electrical tape on top, leaving only the necessary millimeters. Using a drill at low speeds, holes must be drilled in the marked places.

Filling with glue. Blow the finished holes to remove dust, and fill with glue. Sometimes it can come with mounts, but if it is not there, then a simple PVA will do. This will help to fill the cracks formed during drilling, waterproofing and provides a more secure fit. Sometimes it is advised to use epoxy for this purpose, but it is better not to do this, since the solvents in the resin can damage the ski. By the way, there is also an alternative opinion, stating that glue is not needed, but everyone will decide for himself. In any case, it is not difficult to do this, and the glue will not interfere.

Construction assembly. The mount must be re-attached to the ski and start tightening the screws, first not completely, to make sure that the installation is even, and only then finally, so that there are no backlashes. For NN 75, you will first have to insert the boot and check its centering on the ski. Waiting for the glue to dry. After the fasteners are installed, you must wait another 10-12 hours for the glue to dry completely.

This video explains in detail how to install SNS mounts.

Do-it-yourself ski binding installation is doable. The main thing is to have self-confidence and the right tools.