Ointment for wooden skis at home. Ski wax for wooden and plastic skis

To enjoy a ski trip, you need to carefully prepare the skis by applying the appropriate lubricant. How to oil your skis at home- more on that later.

Why oil your skis

If earlier the range of skis was limited only to wooden models, today you can buy plastic and combined ones. However, this does not detract from the merits of wooden skis, and their use is still relevant.

The need for lubrication wooden skis partly related to the characteristics of the material: the tree must be protected from moisture. Also, a lubricated surface glides better and reduces friction with snow.

Therefore, if you are wondering whether it is necessary to lubricate the skis, we give you a definite answer: yes, this procedure is required. And it concerns not only wooden, but also plastic products.

What you need to lubricate skis

"Paraffin skis" - this is the definition that skiers came up with for this procedure. Use of paraffin a is one of the most famous ways to lubricate skis in home conditions.

You will need:

Iron. Every professional in the field skiing there is a special ski lubricating iron, thanks to which the procedure is carried out twice as fast. The economy option is an ordinary old household iron. Attention: we need an old iron, which has not been used for ironing for a long time. It is highly likely that after lubricating the skis, it will be impossible for them to iron their clothes.

Working surface. You need a large table on which you can put your skis. Do not forget to cover unnecessary oilcloth or newspapers so as not to spoil the surface.

Paraffin lubricant for skis. Go to a sports store - there you will be offered several types of paraffin lubricant to choose from. The price range is very wide; for amateur skiing, an inexpensive universal lubricant with a wide temperature range is suitable. The economy option is an ordinary paraffin candle, which you will probably find at home.

Ski brushes. Ideal if you buy a set of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium hard nylon and soft nylon. But you can get by with a brush made of nylon of medium hardness. Attention: ordinary household brushes can be too hard, and there is a risk that you will damage the surface of the skis.

Scrapers. They are used to remove excess wax and clean the groove.

So, everything is ready. Skis, clean and dry, lie on the table, iron and lubricant at the ready. Now let's move on to the process itself.

How to oil wooden skis yourself

The first step is to prepare the skis. Obviously, they must be clean and dry. Take a brush and lightly clean the surface of dirt.

Next, take the lubricant and rub it with it sliding surface skis. By the way, many of them end there. However, keep in mind that without exposure to high temperatures, the lubricant will not be absorbed, and it will last for a maximum of 2-4 km.

Now turn on the iron to the lowest temperature and carefully iron the surface of the ski. The grease will melt and soak into the wood. If you don’t know how to properly lubricate your skis, or you are doing it yourself for the first time, then keep in mind: holding the iron in one place for a long time is not worth it, 2-3 seconds will suffice.

After that, take a break. Let the skis cool to room temperature. Then pick up a scraper and remove excess from the surface and groove.

That's all. You know how to lubricate classic skis with paraffin. As you can see, the process is not the most difficult, but you will have to tinker.

How often should skis be oiled?

Do not forget that you need to lubricate your skis regularly, at least 3 times per season. Thanks to this, you will be comfortable riding them, and the life of the skis will increase several times.

How do you know when it's time to oil your skis? A sure guide will be the appearance of a light gray coating on the surface of the skis.

If you do not want to devote too much time to this procedure, contact a specialized workshop in your city or a sports store. Now various paste-like lubricants are sold, lubricants in cans, which can be used even outside the home while skiing.

Ski wax necessary so that cross-country skiing does not become a torment. Waxes are designed to glide skis and to provide the necessary grip on snow. Ignorance of the properties of ski waxes leads to their incorrect use.

The value of ski waxes

What people just don't do to improve ski glide. Even with the skins of animals, skis are knocked out. Until recently, beeswax, lard and fat from wild animals were used. Many lovers ski trips remember the “smoked” smell of resin, which was used to tar wooden skis without fail. This kept the skis from swelling and reduced the buildup of snow.

Plastic skis are more convenient, so a significant part of winter walkers switched to them. This is about . The problem of proper use of ski wax is no less relevant than the correct selection of skis and ski poles. It is worth having not one, but different ointments. They depend on air temperature, snow condition, duration of the walk and many other factors. Be sure to remove the old ointment before applying a new one. There are special tools and solvents for this. If you prepare the skis according to all the rules, then it will take about half an hour. More often, amateurs prepare skis faster.

On soft skis, the wax wears off faster than on hard skis. It will be easier for a skier if he takes with him a “cork” (plastic rubbing) and a slightly colder and slightly warmer ointment than the one with which the skis are smeared. Incorrectly selected ointments or haste during their application lead to the fact that at an air temperature of about 0 ° C (especially during snowfall), a snowball forms under the block. It is very unpleasant when the sliding surface of the skis is covered with a crust of ice. It should be borne in mind that skis glide worse when sliding conditions change, for example, shady and sunny areas of a forest or park alternate.

There are two types of ski waxes: glide waxes (paraffins) and holding waxes. There are also very expensive accelerators (fluorocarbon powders) that are used in preparing skis for races.

slip ointments

Gliding ointments are often called paraffins. They are needed to improve the possibility of sliding skis and to increase the speed of movement. Good paraffins stay on the sliding surface up to 20 km. When choosing an ointment, the air temperature must be taken into account. If you have skis for classic running, then the ointment is applied to the entire surface of the plastic with the exception of the block (about 50 cm). In other words, for classic running, only the front and back of the ski are smeared with slip wax, and not its middle part. Skis designed for skating are covered with paraffins over the entire sliding surface.

Glide ointments can be solid, liquid, pastes, gels and sprays. Each form has its advantages and disadvantages, for example, solid ointment lasts longer but is harder to apply. The spray is easy to apply but wears off quickly.

A solid slip wax is applied (according to the rules) to the heated surface of the skis using special irons. We adapted an old "Soviet" iron with a thick sole for this purpose. If you buy a special iron for skis, then you can’t take even the most “branded” if it has a thin sole. Because of it, overheating of individual points occurs, and the range of temperature difference reaches 20 degrees. Household irons with thin soles can also ruin skis, since even at a low temperature, the metal heats up unevenly, and the thermostat always has some “inertia”. It is easy not to notice the rise in temperature and the beginning of the melting of the ski surface. Even if the regulator is set to the “silk” pointer. The temperature should be such that the paraffin melts, not the skis themselves. The iron must be moved evenly several times from the toe of the ski to its back. Do not linger in certain places, prevent the appearance of smell and smoke. Excess ointment is removed with a special cycle (scraper).

There is also a simpler option: first, strokes are applied with a piece of paraffin (not from a candle!) Then they are intensively rubbed on the surface of the skis with a piece of hard foam or a special cork. This should be done in a warm room (plus 16 ° C and above). Spaced on the surface of the ski and pounded ointment must be polished. Conveniently with a piece of cork wrapped in an old nylon stocking. Then the holding ointment is applied to the push pad, free from sliding ointment. This softer ointment is easier to grind. For this, a cork is used. Be sure to put newspapers or plastic sheeting on the floor so that you don't have to spend time cleaning it after the skis are ready.

Liquid ointments, pastes, emulsions and aerosols are applied in a thin layer. Then they are allowed to dry (in the air or with a hair dryer), after which the treated surface is polished. The main disadvantage of such ointments is that they last only up to 10 km. Their cost is higher.

Gliding ointments must correspond to the air temperature or be universal (with a significant temperature range). Old paraffin can be easily removed by covering the smeared surface with napkins (toilet paper, paper towel) and warming up with an iron. The paper absorbs all the remnants of the ointment and is easily removed with a plastic scraper. Old grease can be removed with a special fluid. Instead, skiers sometimes use gasoline for Zippo lighters.

It is impossible to get up on warm, just rubbed with ointment skis, as snow will immediately stick to them. They may become covered with ice. To prevent this from happening, the skis need to be taken out into the cold (put on the balcony, in the yard, etc.) for 15-30 minutes, depending on the weather.

Paraffins are common (for air humidity less than 50%), low fluoride and high fluoride (for wet weather, for spring). Of the domestic ointments, the most popular are the slip ointments VISTI, MVIS, Uktus, FESTA and Luch. The inexpensive MVIS Marathon kit (with a small amount of fluorine) is praised for its duration of action and ease of application.

Holding ointment

Holding (clutch) ointment prevents kickback and makes it possible to push. That is why the ointment is applied to the push zone (block) 35-45 cm long for the klister (liquid form of the ointment) and 40-50 cm for the solid ointment. When applying a liquid ointment, the pad area is shortened by about 10 cm compared to a solid ointment, because. adhesion coefficient is higher. A slightly larger layer is applied in the heel area of the boot. Holding ointments are sold in jars (solid) and in tubes (liquid = klisters). Liquid ointments are more suitable for icy ski tracks and for positive air temperatures. When choosing liquid ointments, remember that they will stain clothes and stain the ski bag. In order to prevent liquid ointments from flowing down the ski after a walk, the remaining ointment must be wiped off with a dry cloth or removed with a scraper.

If you plan a long walk, then you should definitely take holding ointment with you, as it has an unpleasant feature to wear off. Wooden skis in this regard are not as "dangerous" as plastic ones. They certainly won't slip that much! And one more note: for stale and compacted snow, a “warmer” ointment is needed. With melting snow, it is worth increasing the lubrication zone (toward the toe).

Cross-country skiing enthusiasts can use such domestic holding ointments as Uktus, MVIS and VISTI. From inexpensive imported ointments, it is better to choose those that do not contain fluoride. It is recommended to select them in such a way that the lowest temperature indicated on the ointment is 2 to 3 degrees higher than the readings of a street thermometer. For example, for weather minus 7 ° C, an ointment recommended for minus 4 - 5 ° C is suitable. This is the opinion of experienced skiers.

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Today we will share with you general information on ointments, lubricants and ski preparation. What a beginner should know in terms of how to prepare skis, what is needed for this, how often it needs to be done. Regardless of what kind of skis they are, in most cases they need to be lubricated.

Do budget skis need to be lubricated?

Budget skis, that is, at a price of up to 5,000 rubles, you do not need to lubricate. The fact is that skis are made from two types of materials: extruded polyethylene and sintered. The slipper, which is made using Extruded Base technology, almost does not absorb. Such a ski glides more on its texture. Sintered Base is a more expensive and more complex technology. Such a surface has pores that can absorb paraffin. Thus, paraffin works: in the process of work, it comes out of these very pores. There is no point in lubricating cheap skis - the lubricant on them will not last long.

Are classic and skating skis lubricated the same way?

And it lubricates differently. Both types of skis have a sliding surface that lubricates the same under equal weather conditions, but classic skis also have a block on which a holding ointment is applied.

Is it possible to do ski preparation at home or do I have to go to the service?

You can cook skis at home. But for this it is necessary to purchase equipment that will allow you to work with skis. From a minimum, an iron is needed - in order to apply paraffin using the hot method.

An ordinary household iron will not work here, it is absolutely impossible to work with such an iron, it is for completely different purposes.

Profile - a special device that is mounted on the table and allows you to fix the ski with the sliding surface up. In this position, the skis need to be prepared. At least two brushes: steel with a fine pile and nylon, soft. Steel is needed in order to clean the ski before applying paraffin and clean the paraffin after application - to open the pores. After that, a soft nylon brush is used to polish the sliding surface, making it even more slippery. You also need a plastic scraper for the initial removal of paraffin after it has been applied and cooled. Paraffin must enter the pores, and it must be removed from the surface of the skis. What we have now listed is necessary for the preparation of skating skis.

For the preparation of classic skis a cork is also needed to rub the holding ointment on the block and wash. It is very difficult to remove an old and dirty holding ointment with anything other than a wash. The old holding ointment must be removed before applying a new one. A wash is a special solution, quite caustic, which is able to corrode holding ointment, resins and complex contaminants. This is the bare minimum for a home.

Why is it better to prepare skis in a service?

There is a certain sense in buying all this equipment if big family and everyone is skiing. If a person is seriously interested in skiing, then it makes sense to buy in order to “wax” yourself and your friends. I would still always turn to the service, there the equipment is more professional than an ordinary skier can afford to buy. Service irons, as a rule, differ from home irons in a thicker sole. Applying powders or even cold lubricants with a home iron is sometimes very difficult. The thing is that the sole loses temperature and it takes more time to melt the lubricant. As a result, many begin to literally rub the lubricant. The ski overheats and the plastic surface melts much easier than the unheated surface. The valuable factory structure suffers greatly from this. This is especially true for warm skis with large and sharp structures.

Lubricant classification

First of all, you need to divide the lubricants according to the temperature of the snow. Four main ranges. Warm lubricants - plus and zero, zero and a small minus. Frosty - by minus 5-15 and by minus 15-30. The colder the snow, the harder the grease will be and the melting point will be higher. In frost, the snow is rough and warm lubricants quickly work out. Frosty snow gets stuck in soft paraffin, which worsens the glide a lot. Warm (soft) lubricants have better water repellency than solid lubricants.

Further, it is worth dividing any lubricants according to the fluorine content. Fluorine significantly increases the water repellency of any lubricant. Lubricants without fluorine are the most budgetary, but it does not mean that they are bad at all. In conditions of low humidity, they are able to give very good glide. The average content of fluorine already gives some advantages at high humidity. Often they are used as an independent lubricant. But riders have more like ground for more fluoric compounds and accelerators. They are much more expensive than fluorine-free lubricants. High fluoride and ultra are used at very high humidity of snow and air. They are expensive and a beginner skier can even be discouraged by their price.

How much will it cost to maintain skis manually and how much will it cost in the service

Four paraffins for the whole winter or even for two seasons will cost 600 rubles per briquette. An amateur iron will cost 4 thousand, a profile - 5 thousand, a scraper - 200 rubles, a scraper for a groove - 200 rubles, brushes will cost 3 thousand. Total for 15 thousand "pass". If a person prepares his skis for only one pair during the season, then it does not always make sense to purchase this equipment. In the service, skis for a beginner will be prepared in 10 minutes. In total it will cost 300 rubles. At the same time, they will give recommendations, assess the condition of the skis, and tell a lot of interesting things. Lubrication applies approximately 20-25 km of travel

Should I remove the grease or let it sit until the next time?

For athletes, before each training session, before each race, the skis are completely cleaned and new lubricants are applied immediately before going out on the snow. And a beginner should apply lubricant in case of weather changes or if the lubricant has developed. Skating before applying the lubricant, in any case, be cleaned with a wire brush. As for the classics, you will need a wash for the ointment.

For good manufacturers

In service, I mainly use Swix, Start, Vauhti, Maplus, Toko, Ski-go, Holmenkol lubricants. It can be said with dignity - these are the best of the best. These lubricants are used both in world-class racing and in mass sports.

For a classic style, the front and back of the ski is lubricated with glide paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (blocks) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the block up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

Application area holding ointments for the classic move.

In skating style, skis are lubricated along the entire length with glide paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is to ski on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and time to prepare the skis will be minimal. But if you are going to compete and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft wax (applying it, removing it and then brushing), applying several layers of weather wax (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then scraped off , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not very strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - paraffin contamination. They can ruin floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. Such training will be to the liking of only ardent fans of skiing. Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and paraffins of slip.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use additionally. These funds are not cheap, and quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not professional sportsman, then it is better not to spend money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is not limited, but it does not make sense to buy it in large quantities.

If there is a humid climate where you intend to ride, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need to do is apply them to the skis with an eplicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hair dryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are the considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski ointments holding.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the ointment layer), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying several layers.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for sub-zero temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment whose lower limit of the temperature range is three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you didn’t guess with the ointment, and if the skis slow down excessively, then apply a more “cold” ointment on top, if they slip too much - a warmer one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will take only a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be afraid to experiment with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you oil your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove any remaining wax before applying a new one. To remove the old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each.

Ointments in the liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, and then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be applied at positive temperatures. But he has one unpleasant property - he greatly stains the case. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene so as not to pollute or spoil the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to thaw and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but problems can arise under certain conditions:

Podlip. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking may occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball is formed under the block.
Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the composition of the ointment after a point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. Often this happens when the temperature of the ointment is a little higher than necessary.
The condition of the snow inside and outside of the track may differ, therefore, when leaving the track, problems may arise, the skis may brake too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade for the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, newcomers to skiing may have the impression that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for ski preparation will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and residues of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, whether you later hot wax them or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible action that will greatly impair the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with plus soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum, at which the paraffin will melt, and proceed to warm up the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This method of processing is suitable if you are not going to apply paraffin with an iron in the future.

The main tools used in the preparation of skis:

used to remove wax residue. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special rounding, so that it is convenient to remove paraffin from the grooves of the ski.
. Used to remove paraffin residues after scraping skis. If you plan to use hot paraffin waxing, then you definitely need such a brush.
. Used to prepare new skis, to remove the pile left from the grinder on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not great.
. A non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
Sandpaper. Used for sanding ski pads in classical style in order to better hold the ointment on it in the future. Not necessary. For sanding, any fine-grained sandpaper is suitable.
Metal cycle. Used to remove the old structure. The fan doesn't need it. Cycling skis requires a special machine and certain skills. But it is very easy to ruin skis with this device.
, with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.
. It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
. It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.
. It is used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best applied to ointments, and cork - to accelerator paraffins. Required tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the level of training of the skier, you can in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walks in the woods plastic skis Oh. It is not necessary to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one cork-grinding.

2) Sufficient. Kit for complete and intelligent ski care. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: the minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will suit a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluorine, a set of paraffins with fluorine, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

It is believed that, unlike plastic, wooden tourist skis absolutely do not need any additional lubrication. They say that resin perfectly protects them from water, the necessary slip is provided by a paraffin primer, and self-made know-how - silver ointment - protects from sticking. This is not entirely true. If the ski trip will take place at low temperatures and many long ascents are expected on the route, then the return of wooden skis can bring a lot of trouble, exhausting hikers, reducing the speed of the group.

So, within the framework of this article, we will talk about how to lubricate wooden skis and how this procedure is carried out. We bring to your attention instructions for lubricating wooden skis. By default, it is assumed that the skis are pre-tarred and after that they stood at least a day warm.

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Lubrication of wooden skis: applying the “base”

It is necessary to prime the ski in advance, at home. To do this, either special paraffin is used, or a paraffin (not stearin) candle, preferably a tablet candle in a metal cup (it is also called floating), because. more paraffin content.

Before lubricating wooden skis with ointment, rub them with stronger paraffin, iron them using something hot for this, for example, or a spatula heated on the stove.

Remove the cycles (with a special scraper) of unabsorbed excess of melted, smeared paraffin.

Wax your ski regularly, before each outing on the snow. This is a good remedy for podlip. But it’s even better to use a “self-made” silver ointment for this.

"Serebryanka" adheres well to skis without preheating (unlike paraffin). Because she is gray color, then you can clearly see where the skis are smeared with it. Another advantage of the "silver" is the resistance to abrasion by snow.

Ointment for wooden skis "silver". Recipe.

Melt the paraffin or paraffin candle in a metal container that you don't mind throwing away (tin can).
Pour, stirring, aluminum powder (silver), in a ratio of 1: 2. Add a little bit of ski resin left over from ski resin. It will soften the ointment, which is especially important if you smear your skis with it in the cold.
Pour the mixture into a pre-prepared plastic cup, holding the temperature of boiling water. After half an hour - an hour the ointment will harden.
Cut off the glass with scissors. Ready!

When solidified, the aluminum will settle a little and on the one hand the bar will turn out to be more gray. This part of it can be used in warm weather, and the reverse (with the resulting notch) - during frost.

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