Academic knot from one rope. How to knit a counter knot? Tourist knots

Tourist knots. Balabanov I.V.

Knots are ways of connecting ropes, ribbons, fishing lines, various threads, etc., ways of forming loops and tying ropes to various objects. In addition, the very connection of the ropes is called a knot.

There are quite a few nodes. As L.N. Skryagin in the book "Sea Knots", the American K. Ashley collected and described about 700 of their species. It is obvious that it is simply impossible to know and be able to knit such a number of knots, and there is no need.

Tourist hubs are subject to certain requirements dictated by the practice of their application. Tourist knots should: be tied simply ( easy to remember); not untie spontaneously under load or after its removal; do not "crawl" when; do not tighten "tightly" unnecessarily; correspond to its purpose. In addition, if you have doubts about the correctness of knitting a knot, it is better to abandon it and use another knot that is well known to you.

Each rope, rope, cord, etc. have their own strength. True, when we tie a tent guy to a tree, we hardly think about the strength of the rope used for these purposes. It's a completely different matter when it comes to the rope that, say, climbers are tied with during ascents and which is used for belay. In this case, its strength characteristics are important. Therefore, it would not be out of place to say that all knots significantly weaken the strength of the rope. For example, the figure-eight knot - by 25%, the bowline knot - by 30%, the weaving knot - by 35%. Other knots reduce the strength of the rope by about the same limits. In addition, it is important to know that a wet rope reduces its strength by 10%; the strength of ropes decreases by almost 30% at temperatures close to 30° below zero. The strength of ropes that are dirty, old, dried in the sun, or with damaged outer braiding is reduced by half.

To knit knots correctly, of course, practice is needed. Those who need it will strengthen their skills by training. After all, not all knots fit easily. There are very successful knots, but difficult to remember. In general, the ability to knit knots is very individual. Some people will have to memorize a simple knot for a long time, while others will knit a knot with a complex pattern the first time.

straight knot
It unties spontaneously (“crawls”), so use without control units is permissible only for domestic purposes.

reef knot
A variant of a straight knot with a loop that makes it easier to untie. It is used as an auxiliary, not working under load. The option with two loops on the running ends is known to everyone since childhood under the name " bow".

Weaving knot.

Counter node.
It does not creep, it is strongly tightened under load, it is used for tying ropes of any diameter and ribbon-rope combinations.

counter eight
The characteristics are similar to the counter node.

Shkotovy (а-в) and bramshkotovy (d) knots
Under load, they do not tighten, but "creep" under variable loads.
The clew knot is used to tie ropes of the same diameter,
bramshkotovy - for ropes of both the same and different diameters. Control nodes are required.
On the left side of figure "d" the authors mixed up the root and running end of the rope.

Knot "grapevine"
Reliable and beautiful. It tightens up a lot under load. Used for tying ropes of the same and different diameters, fishing lines.

Anchor knots

Knot "boa constrictor"
It tightens quickly and strongly (with heavy loads - "tightly"), does not "creep".
To facilitate untying, a loop is knitted with a long free end (d).

Double knot "boa constrictor"
It tightens even more.

Fishing bayonet (a), simple bayonet with a hose (b), bayonet with a fence (c)
A bayonet with a carryover, unlike a “simple bayonet” knot (which does not have a second turn of the rope around the support), does not slide along the object around which it is tied under pendulum loads.

loops

Conductor (I - loop, II - one end)
It is knitted both at the end of the rope and in the middle. The pose is heavily tightened under load and “creeps”, especially on a rigid rope; a control knot is required. It is not recommended to use under heavy loads - it greatly reduces the strength of the rope.

Eight (I - loop, II - one end)
Under load it does not tighten too much, does not “creep”, the strength of the rope decreases less than the conductor.
Notes Analyst: 1) In this sketch, the lower right figure does not match the upper left. 2) After tying the "eight" with a loop, the knot pattern turns out to be somewhat incorrect and requires adjustment. It is problematic to explain which one, in words, you will knit - guess for yourself.

Nine
It has the highest strength (70-74%) compared to all other nodes of the "conductor" series - it reduces the strength of the rope even less than the "eight".

Bowline (arbor knot)
It was known to the Egyptians and Phoenicians for 3000 BC. e.
Under load, it doesn’t tighten much, it “creeps” under variable loads, a control unit is needed.
A bowline, especially a loose one, is sensitive to which end the main load is applied to. If you pull on one end, the knot is strongly (sometimes even too much) tightened. If you pull after another, this load contributes to the self-untying of the knot.
By the way, the description of the bowline is accompanied by a pattern of the Cossack knot.

double bowline
Allows you to make loops of both the same and different lengths.
To make the drawing of the knot correct, it is necessary to pull out the loop "A" completely in the opposite direction from the loops "B" (1), then tighten the knot (2). It is used in mountaineering for knitting gazebos (each loop for one leg), in marine practice the knot is used to insure a person: they sit in one loop, and the other covers the body under the armpits.

Eskimo loop (a-c)
Allows you to quickly adjust the size of the loop in the knot, convenient for knitting braces. Under load, it does not tighten, it does not "creep".
Fishing loop (g)
Does not "creep", under load it drags on a lot.

Austrian conductor, he is also a return conductor, he is also a driving loop,
he is colloquially "butterfly" or "bee"
Allows you to make a reliable loop anywhere in the rope, weakening its strength less than the "guide" and "eight". Can be used to knit a rope ladder (see also stirrup).

Knot "bunny ears"
Forms a double loop, which increases its tensile strength. Doesn't crawl. It tightens up a lot under load.

Cossack knot (a-c). Kalmyk knot (g).
Reliable nodes, do not "creep", do not tighten much under load, do not require a control unit.
To facilitate untying, you can use the option with a loop (d).
The figure on the right shows an alternative variant of tying the Cossack knot, and for some reason the picture accompanies the description of the bowline.
For the convenience of memorization and comparison, the drawings of the primary sources were deployed around different axes.

Auxiliary nodes

Marking node
Allows you to keep the rope in a compact state using a mark (mark - several turns of the end of the rope around the folded rings). Indispensable for rope transportation.

rope chain
Allows you to temporarily shorten the rope by 3-3.5 times. If necessary, the rope straightens in a matter of seconds.

Special Knots

Grasping nodes: a) Prusik (Prusik) b) Marchard (Marchard) c) Bachman (Bachman) d) semi-grasping

The Marshall knot holds much better than the others, including with unfavorable ratios of the diameters of the main rope (marked with hatching) and the cord, does not allow slipping even without being tightly tightened before loading.

Stirrup
The loops of the knot are used as a support for the legs when climbing a fixed rope (crawling out of cracks, etc.).
It is identical to the tie knot, which is tied in a different way, and is not shown here, since it is less effective than the boa knot. Shown upside down for ease of knitting.

Knots for tying fishing hooks

Sources: http://spelestology.km.ua/news/uzly/2010-03-16-58 and http://www.phototerritory.ru/index/uzly/0-159

If you need more images of nodes for consideration - study, look in the attachment to this article Igor Balabanov's book - some materials can be found on the forum of our site in the "Sturmalp" section

There is also an excellent video on the practical use of knots: it will be especially useful to analyze knots with which you can replace specific climbing iron, which you may not have with you: jumar, eight, a set of blocks for a chain hoist ...

To overcome obstacles (descents, ascents, crossings, traverses, etc.) in travel, especially mountain trips, ropes, carabiners, safety systems and various knots are used. It is important for every tourist to know how it fits and where this or that knot is used. Nodes can be classified according to their purpose.

1. Knots for tying ropes of the same diameter: “straight”, “weaving”, “oncoming”, “grapevine”.

2. Knots for tying ropes of different diameters: "academic", "bramshkotovy".

3. Knots for insurance (non-tightening loops): “simple conductor”, “eight”, “middle Austrian conductor”, “double conductor”.

4. Knots for tying ropes to a support: “noose”, “bowline”, “stirrup”.

5. Auxiliary nodes: "grasping", "stirrup". The stirrup knot can be used in two cases, but the knitting methods will be different.

A “straight” knot can be knitted in two ways.

1. A loop is made with one rope (a), and the necessary turns are made with the second rope to get the knot, as in the figure (b). The running ends should be 15-20 cm long so that control knots can be tied (d). If one running end is on top and the other is on the bottom, or vice versa, then the knot is tied incorrectly. The running ends should come out either only from above, or only from below.

2. Two ropes are superimposed on each other and two are tied simple node V different sides(c, d). If the knots are tied in one direction, then a "woman's knot" (e) is obtained. Next, control knots (d) are tied at the ends.

"Weaving" knot

Two ropes of the same diameter are taken, superimposed on each other, then the control knot is knitted first on one side (a), then on the other (6). Next, the knots are pulled together and control knots (c) are tied at the ends.

"Counter" node

We take two ropes of the same diameter, a simple knot is knitted at the end of one (Fig. 56, a), then with the second rope towards the running end of the first rope we completely repeat the knot so that it turns out to be double and the running ends come out in different directions (Fig. 56, b). After that, the knot is tightened, the control knots usually do not fit (Fig. 56, c).

Knot "grapevine"

Two ropes of the same diameter are superimposed on each other, a double control knot is tied, as it were, on one side (a), then the same on the other (b). The knots are pulled together (c). Control knots do not fit. The correct drawing of the node is shown in Figure (d).

"Bramshkotovy" knot

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop from a thicker rope, and wrap it with a thin running end as shown in the figure (a, b). Then the knot is tightened, straightened, and control knots (c) are knitted at both ends.

"Academic" node

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop thicker, and wrap the loop with the running end of a thin rope as shown in the figure (a, b). The knot is tightened, straightened, control knots (c) are knitted at both ends.

Node “simple conductor”

It is knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and a simple knot is tied at the end of it (a, b) to make a loop. A control knot is tied below (c).

Knot "eight"

Knitted with one rope. It is folded in half and a knot is tied at the end, resembling the number eight (a, b). The knot straightens, tightens. The control knot does not fit (c).

Knot “middle Austrian conductor”

The knot is knitted on one rope. The rope is taken by the middle, then, by turning 360 °, a figure eight (a) is formed from it, the top of which goes down and is pulled through, as shown by the arrow in figure (b), so that the loop comes out. In order to get the correct knot (c), you need to stretch the ends of the rope in different directions. The control knot does not fit.

Knot "double conductor", or "hare ears"

Knitted on one rope. The rope is folded in half, a “dummy” is knitted on it (a), tightened (c) and tied so that it is untied if you pull it by the loop. In the case when the "dummy" is tied the other way around, the "double conductor" knot will not work. Then the lower loop is passed, as shown by the arrow in figure (b), so that two upper loops pass through it, and is pulled together by the upper loops to the knot (c).

A correctly tied knot is shown in figure (d). It is necessary to ensure that when tying the knot there is no overlap of the ropes. "Double Conductor" has no control nodes.

Node "noose"

The knot is knitted with one rope around the support. The support refers first to the running end, which serves to attach the rope, and then to its working end, which is directly used by the tourist (a). Next, the running end of the rope makes several turns around the working end (at least three and the control knot (b) is tied. Then the knot is tightened.

Stirrup Knot

The knot is tied with one end of the rope around the support. The running end of the rope is wrapped around the support, then knitted as shown in figure (a). After that, the knot is tightened and fixed. control node(b). If a stirrup knot is used when attaching to a support, it is tightened as tight as possible and the control knot is knitted as close to the support as possible.

The stirrup knot can be used as a fulcrum for the leg when lifting from cracks. It is more convenient than the "guide" and "eight", because it is easier to untie and it can be tied even with one hand (a, b).

Bowline knot

Knitted with one end of the rope around the support. Having retreated the required distance from the edge of the rope, make a loop by turning the rope 180 ° clockwise, then the support is surrounded by the running end (shown as a cross in the figure) and the end is threaded into the loop formed (a). The next step: the running end is surrounded by a working rope and threaded into the loop from the back (b). The knot is tightened and a control knot (c) is tied.

"Bowline" can be tied in another way, with the help of a "pacifier". To do this, instead of a loop, a “dummy” is tied so that it is untied when jerking at the working end, and not at the running one. The support is surrounded by the running end (a). Then it is carried into the “dummy” loop, and when the working end is pulled, the “dummy” loop, together with the running end, passes through the knot (b). On the resulting bowline knot, it remains only to tie the control knot (c).

"Grab" knot

The knot is tied with a cord (6 mm) on the main rope (diameter 10-12 mm). The cord is folded in half, the rope is wrapped around it (a, b). Then the operation is repeated (c, d). After that, the knot is tightened, straightened and a control knot (e) is tied. The control knot is not needed if the cord is previously tied into a loop with an “oncoming” or “grapevine” knot.

Sometimes a "grasping" knot is tied at one end of the cord. The rope is wrapped with one end of the cord twice in one direction, then in the other (a, b, c). Then the knot is tightened, straightened and necessarily fixed with a control knot (d).

Additional nodes

Node “dummy”

This knot can be used when tying bowline and double conductor knots, as well as an independent knot (for example, when tightening the top of a backpack). It is quickly and easily untied if you pull the ends in different directions.

Knitting method. The rope is taken by the middle and a simple knot (a) is tied, but instead of tightening the ends, a tightening loop is made (6).

"Marking" node

This knot is used to tie the rope after it is coiled.

"Bachman Knot"

The knot is a kind of "grasping" and can be used for the same purposes. For the carabiner, the knot can be led up and down, and with a sharp jerk, the knot is tightened. It is easily untied after unloading.

The cord snaps into the carabiner (a), with the carabiner open, 3-4 turns are made (b), then the carabiner sleeve is twisted, the knot is straightened and tightened (c).

denisanikin.ru

NB This material is aimed at mountaineering instructors and experienced climbers, it does not cover the technique of knitting knots.

Part one - knots for beginners.
Part two. Knots for all occasions.
Part three. Knots are not for climbing.

Many thanks to the Vento company and Ilya Gladkiy for the provided drawings.

Knots for mountaineering are a hackneyed, trampled topic, but holivars are regularly called. There are a huge variety of nodes in the world (about 4000 are described), each of which is better than others for a specific, and often unique situation. And in an ideal world, where we would all have perfect memory and motor skills, everyone would know and correctly use all these knots. But, alas, our world and memory are not perfect, there is always not enough time for learning, and in difficult conditions, memory and skills often fail.

This is especially true for training mountaineering and beginner climbers. They have to learn, understand and develop many specific skills in a very short time, of which knots are only a small, albeit important, part.

That is why, in my practice as an instructor, I divide knots into groups: first, we study the minimum necessary list of knots to solve most problems in mountaineering, and then at each stage of training we add a few more knots to it, to more effectively solve specific problems.

For initial stage training selected a very limited set of the most versatile and reliable nodes. Which can be quickly and reliably learned, and the use of which can soon be entrusted to novice climbers without the direct supervision of an instructor.

Yes, some technique using these nodes will not be completed in the fastest and most efficient way, but for beginners, reliability, safety and the use of proven techniques are much more important.

In the future, the set of nodes, including specific ones, increases, and an experienced climber has a choice - which node and when to use.

Example. You need to tie a rope to a support to organize a belay station. The fastest option is to use the bowline knot.

Figure 1 "Wrong" bowline - the free end comes out, there is no control knot, the loop tied around the support is loaded.

Incorrect bowline - the free end comes out, there is no control node, the loop around the support is loaded.

But!!! The bowline must be tied correctly so that the free end comes out of the inside of the knot, the bowline necessarily requires a control knot, a lanyard cannot be snapped into the loop of the bowline, etc.

Proper tying and use of the bowline knot.

When trying to tie a bowline, a novice climber will either make a lot of mistakes, or this attempt will take a very long time.

Therefore, I recommend using an oncoming eight knot to secure the rope to the support (for beginners). This is a standard knot that is used daily by every climber, it does not require a control knot, it has a very characteristic pattern and the correctness of its tying can be easily checked by an instructor from a distance, the resulting loop can be used as a station loop. There are quite a few such examples.

It should also be understood that the criterion "how much the knot weakens the rope" - is not important for climbers. Possible loss of rope strength in any knots reaches 25-30%, which, with the strength of a modern rope of 22-24 kN, leaves more than a sufficient margin of safety.

Testing has also shown that a kink on a carabiner reduces the strength of a rope much more than any of the knots recommended below. In addition, modern soft ropes lose less of their strength in knots and kinks than older ropes. Dynamic ropes are tested with the figure-eight knot tied.

The relevance of this issue has remained for professional rescuers working with large loads on static and super static ropes.

Criteria for a properly tied knot.

The main requirements for knots in mountaineering are:

correct node drawing,
no rope overlaps in the knot,
the length of the free ends of the rope is 6-10 rope diameters,
knot must be tightened.

Knot selection criteria for beginner climbers.

The knot should have a clear and memorable pattern. Such knots are easier to learn and easier to control the correct tying.
Minimize the use of nodes that require the use of a control node. 95% of climbers knit the control knot incorrectly, even if they knit. The control knot must be tied close to the controlled knot.
The knot should not have different tying options that affect its strength and reliability.
The node must be multifunctional.

Figure eight knot (Flemish knot, Flemish loop).

For tying to a rope, tying two ropes of the same or approximately the same (10 + 9, 9 + 8 mm) diameter, a figure-eight knot is recommended. Also, with the help of the figure-eight knot, loops are tied on the rope, including in its middle when organizing the bundle. Various variants of this knot are a figure eight at one end, an opposite figure eight, a loop of eight in the middle of the rope.

A popular method among climbers, double bowline knotting requires more rope to tie and is more difficult to control. But it is somewhat easier to untie after strong jerks, which is important for sports climbing, but not for mountaineering.

Grapevine knot (double fisherman's knot).

Ropes of different diameters (7-11 mm) are recommended to be tied using a Grapevine knot. When using a knot to tie ropes of different diameters, it works great because it consists of two half-knots that abut against each other. But this does not mean that they cannot tie ropes of the same diameter.

The knot is quite difficult to tie, but has a characteristic pattern and is easy to control. It is very tight and difficult to untie after applying a load.

Knot options are the Barel knot (tightening loop) and the control knot (half Grapevine).

I do not recommend the use of the clew, academic knot and/or bramsheet knot, because they require control units and are unreliable under alternating loads.

The control knot at the end of the rope is especially relevant when descending the rope. In this case, the half Grapevine knot is tied about 1 meter from the end of the rope to prevent the end of the rope from slipping through the descender.

UIAA knot (Italian knot).

Instead of standard braking devices (in case of loss of a device or a heavily wet and frozen rope), a UIAA knot is used. This node provides a high and, most importantly, adjustable braking force, also allows you to belay, both on the descent and on the ascent.

The UIAA knot twists the rope in much the same way. descender eight type. To reduce rope twist, it is recommended to keep the branches of the ropes entering and exiting the knot parallel. The statement that the UIAA knot severely damages the rope has no practical support.

Prusik knot.

For safety net when descending a rope, climbing a rope, organizing a chain hoist, etc., it is recommended to use a Prus knot in 3 turns. The diameter of the cord for tying a knot should be 2/3 of the diameter of the rope on which it will work. With a rope diameter of 9.5-11 mm, a cord with a diameter of 7 mm is suitable. When using ropes of a smaller diameter, a cord for a grasping smaller diameter can also be used.

But the more important characteristic of the grasping cord is not its diameter, but its softness. For reliable operation of the grasping knot, you need to use a soft cord. The test for checking the cord is as follows: the cord is folded in half and squeezed with your fingers approximately 5 centimeters from the bend, and the other end of the cord is inserted into the resulting loop.

If the cord passes into the resulting loop, then it is NOT SUITABLE for a grasping knot.

The three-turn Prusik knot provides sufficient strength, reliability and stability of performance in most situations.

For safety when descending on a double rope, below the belay and descender, it is recommended to tie a Prusik in two turns. The load on this node is not high, but a big difference in diameter of the ropes (a double rope is equivalent to a single rope with a diameter of 15-16 mm) makes it difficult to move along a double rope with a three-turn knot. When descending a single rope, the Prusik is tied in 3 turns.

Various options for grasping knots and their use are discussed in detail in the articles

Testing of various options for grasping knots. Part 1 and Part 2

Knot Stirrup.

For organizing self-insurance, fixing the rope to the support, making stirrups, stretchers, etc. a stirrup knot is used. The information that the Stirrup knot, with a load of more than 4 kN, pickles the rope and can be used as a shock absorber is not true. To increase the reliability of the knot tied at the end of the rope, with alternating loads, it is necessary to leave a rope margin of 50-70 cm or tie a control knot.

Simple flat knot (conductor, flat overhand, "oak knot")

A simple flat knot, tying ropes with it. The control knots at the ends of the ropes are half of the Grapevine.

To organize a descent along a double rope with its subsequent pulling, especially if the terrain is strongly dissected, and the knot connecting the ropes can get stuck, it is recommended to use a simple flat knot instead of an oncoming eight knot. It is better than all known nodes "passes" the kinks and dissected relief. The free ends of the ropes after tying the knot must be at least 25-30 cm. Using a figure eight knot in this configuration is DANGEROUS!

Also, with this knot, I recommend tying a grasping knot to a belay system, tying it on a traction prusik in a chain hoist system, using it as a “just in case” knot when climbing a rope using grasping knots, and a huge variety of different applications.

Tests have shown that this knot, tied on a rope of 8.5-10 mm, begins to “creep” smoothly at a load of 7-8 kN, which, when using a double rope (when descending a rope), is equivalent to a load on a climber of 14-16 kN. Such loads are far beyond what is possible for this and most other possible situations in mountaineering.

If necessary, isolate the damaged place on the rope - you can also use this knot. The use of a figure-eight node in this configuration is less reliable - the figure-eight node begins to slip at half the load.

This knot is somewhat out of the "minimum knots" concept, but it is very easy to tie and learn.

To be continued….. Part 2 and Part 3.

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Knot counter

To anyone who is interested in how to knit a knot, the counter is recommended for learning first of all. After all, he, firstly, refers to the most necessary knots - whether it be mountaineering or fishing, hunting, or even everyday life. It allows you to tie together two ropes, sometimes even of different thicknesses, which is often necessary. The counter knot is easy to untie, but it holds the load perfectly. Thanks to these qualities, he is popular and most in demand.

In order to organize such an oncoming knot, you first need to tie a simple knot at the free end of the first rope, but do not tighten it to the end, but leave it in a “loose” state. Then the free end of the second rope is pushed into the loop of a simple knot, and after that absolutely all the bends of the first simple knot are duplicated.

At the same time, overlaps must be avoided. If they are formed - eliminate. When all the overlaps are eliminated, it is necessary to tighten the oncoming knot, intercepting with one hand all the two ends from one and the other ropes and in the same way with the second hand - at the ends of both ropes - and stretching out the arms with considerable effort in opposite directions.

During the arrangement of the oncoming knot, you should certainly pay attention to the safety knots as well: their presence is mandatory.

Knot academic

academic node knits quite easily, it is intended to be able to tie the ends of ropes of different thicknesses. This knot perfectly holds the load and does not tighten tightly, after removing the load it can be quickly untied.

To tie an academic knot, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow a straight knot is knitted, while the first rope forms a loop through which the second is threaded, wrapped twice and removed from the loop of the first rope. At the same time, it is important to change the direction of the run-outs: first in one direction, and then in the other, otherwise the so-called woman's knot may turn out, which is not as reliable as the academic one.

This node requires the mandatory use of safety (control) nodes.

Knot bramshkotovy

To tie a bramshet knot, you need to make a loop from the first rope, thread the second rope through it so that a small loop is formed, and then its end is passed through it twice, tied around the loop of the first rope.

This method of mating also requires the mandatory use of safety (control) knots. The windlass knot is known for the fact that it begins to creep under variable loads and does not tighten tightly under heavy loads.

clew knot

It is believed that this knot has been known to people since time immemorial: the clew knot was found by archaeologists during excavations of human settlements dating back to 7,000 BC.

To tie a knot, you need to: thread the free end of the first rope into the loop of the second rope, tie the first rope around the base of the second loop and, going back, pull the free end of the first rope into the loop below its base. Then the knot is tightened and fixed.

The clew knot is used exclusively on ropes of vegetable origin. It only holds when a load is applied to it. There are many of its variations and applications, and therefore everyone who is interested in how to tie knots is recommended to study it.

Counter conductor

The knot is often used in mountaineering, it is excellent for tying two bands or straps together and holding them together. If you use round ropes, such a knot can crawl under certain types of load.

First you need to tie a simple loose knot at the end of the second rope, then thread the free end of the first rope through the loop of this knot, following the path of the first knot of the second rope, but in the opposite direction. It remains only to tighten the knot tightly and fix it.

counter eight

The counter eight is a knot, also one of the most ancient. Another name for it is the Flemish knot. Although initially it belonged to sea knots, over time it found its use on land.

In order to tie an opposite figure eight, you need to: tie the end of the first rope in the form of a free figure eight, then make exactly the same figure eight on the second rope, drawing it parallel to the turns of the first rope. That is, you will have to knit the second rope, as it were, in a mirror image of the first. At the end, the knot is firmly tightened.

If you want to tie like two thick ropes or cables, and even a thin fishing line, then an oncoming eight is perfect for this. The knot is easy to learn, strong and untied quickly.

Bowline

This node is also called the gazebo - after the name of a small wooden platform-bench, on which the sailor sat, for example, to paint the side of the ship or clean it from shells.

There is nothing complicated about how to knit a bowline. Moreover, the scope of its application is extremely wide. It will certainly come in handy not only for climbers or fishermen, but also common man in everyday life, because it is not without reason that the bowline is called the king of all knots.

To tie it, you must first form a crossed closed loop on the first rope, the end of the second rope is threaded through this loop, wound up behind the free end of the first and thrust into its loop. At the same time, connoisseurs advise memorizing as they taught on ancient ships: a cowardly hare in a hole (formation of a loop), a cowardly hare crawled out of a hole (the free end of the second rope is pulled through the loop of the first), a cowardly hare ran around a tree (the end of the second rope starts at the end first), the cowardly hare again hid in the hole (threading the end of the second rope into the loop of the first).

Conductor

Refers to knots that are mandatory for mastering not only in maritime affairs, but also in industrial mountaineering, for rescuers, etc. The conductor will help out perfectly if you need to organize an attachment point on the main rope, and you can knit it absolutely anywhere along its entire length.

The conductor is tied like the most ordinary knot, but for this, not one end of the rope is taken, but a double one - folded in half on any length of the rope. The loop threaded at the exit forms a convenient running "channel" through which you can pass another rope, belt or cable (hence the name of the knot), or organize another knot or fasten a carabiner.

double conductor

The double conductor knot generally does not require safety knots due to the high friction and self-tightening properties under stress. It also has the name "hare ears" for its characteristic appearance.

In principle, it is knitted in exactly the same way as an ordinary conductor, but a double rope is pulled out of the loop, which looks like a hare's ears. A loop is placed on these ears, and then tightened. In this case, you need a thumb right hand(or left - for left-handers, respectively) hold the loop at the base of the knot.

Grapevine

For a beginner who has just begun to comprehend the science of how to tie knots, this knot cannot be recommended for mastering: it is quite difficult to perform. Moreover, if tied incorrectly, it can cause an accident, although it may look like the right one.

The grapevine itself is two such half-knots, after the tie they are pulled one to the other.

The sequence of knitting a grapevine is as follows: first, the first and second ropes must be folded towards each other and together with the tied ends on each rope. In this case, the first rope is slightly higher than the second. Then the free end of the first at a right angle is bent to the side towards itself and held over the second rope. After that, the end is brought down and wraps both ropes at once, shifting in relation to this turn to the right side (towards the first rope) and again bends towards itself. Then the end is again brought down, so as to re-encircle the rope. In this case, the end is again shifted to the right and then brought over the first and second ropes. A kind of hollow is formed between the ropes. Then, parallel to the hollow, the end is brought under both turns to the left. The first half-knot is then tightened.

The second half-knot is knitted similarly, then these two half-knots are pulled one to the other.

Stirrup

A stirrup knot, it's just a stirrup, it's also a faded knot. It is used to organize a fulcrum for the foot. The second end of the rope can be fixed on a relief or an artificial support. Appearance knot really resembles a stirrup for a rider. It consists of two loops opposite to each other, which are both easily tightened and easily disintegrated, therefore they can be used if necessary to save time. At the same time, the safety knot on the stirrup itself is strictly required!

If you need to tie together two ropes of the same thickness, then the so-called weaving knot is perfect for this. Despite its simplicity, it is one of the most reliable. Therefore, it is recommended for compulsory study.

To tie such a knot, you will need to: direct the free ends of the two ropes towards each other, tie a simple knot at one end, and stretch the free end of the second rope into the loop of this knot and draw it around the root end of the first rope. Then the end of the second rope is also tied into a simple knot. After that, both loops are shifted towards each other until connected together - and the knot is tightened.

Provided that the load on the knot can be quite strong, especially on wet ropes, the weaving knot can subsequently not be untied at all - it is so tightly tightened.

Of course, it is not at all necessary to immediately try to learn all the knots given here at once. For starters, two or three main ones will be enough. But it is necessary to bring their tying to full automatism. And only then proceed to the development of the next one.

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In tourism, an academic hub is not a maritime academic hub. Academic nautical the knot is very similar to the surgical knot. It differs from its progenitor - a direct knot - in that the running end of the rope is wrapped around the running end of another rope twice, after which the running ends are brought together towards each other and again wrapped twice. In other words, two half-knots are knitted below and two half-knots are knitted at the top, but tied in the opposite direction. This gives the academic knot the advantage that when the rope is heavily loaded, the ok does not tighten as much as a straight knot and is easier to untie in the normal way.

The academic node accepted for use in tourism looks different:

A knot is knitted, like a straight one, “with one end into a loop”, but after passing the running end of the first rope into the loop of the second rope, not one loop is cut, but two. After that, the running end is again passed into the loop, moreover, along the course of its root cat. It turns out beautiful symmetrical knot. Thus, the area of interaction of rubbing surfaces was increased. Due to this, they tried to solve the problem of tying two ropes of different diameters. Can it be done? I will answer with the words of Mikhail Rastorguev and Svetlana Sitnikova, who write in their training manual: “Academic knot, despite the recommendations of the methodological posters of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions, the book “Tourist” (Moscow, FiS, 1974), “Encyclopedia of the Tourist” (Moscow, Great Russian Encyclopedia , 1993) and others should not be used for tying ropes of various diameters, especially for hard domestic ropes. What to add to this? I fully agree with them.

The knot is rather controversial. Knitting it can only be seen at competitions in hiking technique, and even then at low-class distances. The knot is almost never used by tourists. Vladimir Ilyich Ganopolsky in his book “Tourism at School” writes the following about this knot: “... I did not find this knot of practical use for tying two ropes intended for organizing insurance: this knot is not of interest for tying two ropes of the same diameter, because ... a very simple and very reliable counter node was invented; for tying two ropes of different diameters, the academic knot is a little more reliable than the direct one - a much more reliable alternative was found for him in this too.

Safety knots must be knitted at the running ends.

"Austrian furrier" Shamov's knot

Let's talk about the furrier knot first...

This wonderful knot has long been known to furriers, but so far it has remained unnoticed by sailors. Its scheme speaks for itself. It is relatively simple, has fairly crossed ends, and is compact.

In addition, the furrier knot has an excellent property. Designed for strong traction, it tightens firmly, but also unties without much of a pile. This knot can be successfully used to tie synthetic ropes.

At one time, while studying this knot, I noticed that this knot is not a symmetrical figure. Working with the furrier knot and achieving its symmetry, I received a new knot, which I conditionally called the "Austrian furrier" knot.

The node has several properties that distinguish it favorably from other nodes in this group. It does not come undone under alternating loads, it is easy to knit, and it is easy to untie when it is necessary to separate the ropes. But even this is not the main thing. Tourists do not need to study this knot specifically. They know him! Upon closer examination, it turns out that the diagram of this knot is an exact copy of the Austrian conductor, with the exception of one thing: in order to obtain an Austrian furrier's knot from an Austrian conductor, you need to cut its working loop. Hence its name follows.

The figure shows one of the ways to knit this knot. The other two have already been described in the discussion of the Austrian conductor. As far as I know, this node has not been specifically studied, tested or described by anyone before me. This is the first edition with his description.

And the last. Since this knot belongs to the class of auxiliary knots, I recommend tying safety knots at the running ends.

D. Tight knots

(wrong name) middle nodes)

Stirrup

(bleed knot, float knot)

The knot consists of two half-bayonets tied in the same direction. This is a very reliable tightening knot that holds flawlessly as long as tension is applied to both ends of the rope. Tourists use it when tying stretchers and when working with jumars (in this case, the foot is inserted into the working loops - hence its name). Using this knot, you can fasten a rope to a smooth post or crossbar, hang the rope with two supports, etc.

There are two main ways to knit a stirrup. The first method is used in cases where one of the ends of the support (object) around which the knot is tied is open and accessible:

The second method, when the rope has to be carried directly around the support (tying a knot at one end):

If the knot is tied in the middle of the rope (not at its end), then, naturally, safety knots are not tied. In the case where the knot is tied at the end of the rope, it is necessary to tie a safety knot.

"Constrictor"

(non-tightening stirrup)

A certain P. Kiselev released a wall calendar for 1993, on the reverse side of which about 30 different nodes are drawn. Including the constrictor, which Mr. Kiselyov called a constrictor. Kiselyov is not alone in his mistake. It seems easier for a Russian person to pronounce a word with a large number of vowels.

The knot is known and used around the world under the name "constrictor". What does this word mean? Locksmith of foreign words (Moscow. "Russian language", 1988) gives us the following explanations: "constrictor" (from lat. constriction- contraction, narrowing) is an anatomical muscle that compresses any channel or natural opening, for example, the upper and lower edges of the pharynx.

Lev Nikolaevich Skryagin in his book “Sea Knots” writes the following: “Boa constrictor is the zoological name of a boa constrictor in Latin. Snakes such as the boa constrictor, python, anaconda are known to kill their prey by squeezing it with three loops of their body. The knot, known throughout the world by this name, is one of the most tightly tightened knots. At the same time, it is considered one of the most difficult knots to untie. As a rule, it is not even untied, it serves once. The constrictor tightens well if it is tied to round objects that do not have sharp corners; in this case, he is indispensable.”

My way:

As a stirrup, this knot is more convenient than a regular stirrup. It does not tighten as quickly and puts less pressure on the foot. In addition, tourists use this knot when attaching the railing (the constrictor is knitted at one end and is not specially tightened on the support). The constrictor can be knitted at the end of the rope or in its middle. In the case of knitting a constrictor at the end of the rope, it is necessary to knit a safety knot (with the running end at the root end).

This node can be used for other purposes as well. With the help of a constrictor, you can tightly tie a bag, a catamaran or inflatable raft chamber valve, compress a leaking rubber hose, etc.

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What is a figure eight knot? ↓
Benefits of the G8 ↓
Disadvantages of the G8 ↓
Learning to knit a figure-eight knot ↓
Attaching hooks with a ring ↓
Attaching a hook with a spatula ↓
Tying lines ↓
Knot tying recommendations ↓

Tying rigging elements, tying two lines - for all this, the “Eight” knot is suitable, which has been popular since the time of the ancient Incas and has not lost its relevance today, in the days of Bologna tackle, English donkey and feeder coils.

What is a figure eight knot?

Of all the nodes, the "eight" is the most noticeable, due to its shape, similar to the number "8".

Benefits of the G8

All nodes are subject to the following requirements:

easy to tie;
easy to remember;
do not spontaneously untie under load and after its removal;
do not tighten "tightly".

The figure eight knot is good in all respects:

knits easily;
easy to remember;
minimally deforms the fibers of the vein;
has a minimum number of folds;
knitted with one free end;
does not "creep";
easily forms loops;
does not tighten strongly under load;
can be performed with one hand;
is the basis for knitting other knots.

Disadvantages of the G8

Using modern technologies and materials, the properties of the fishing line change. It becomes more elastic and has increased tear characteristics with a smaller diameter.

At present, such a concept as the "slipperiness" of the fishing line has begun to be used. Along with the new characteristic, there were also restrictions on the use of some nodes, including the G8.

Learning to knit a figure eight knot

There are many varieties of the "eight", but it is enough to learn how to tie a classic knot to understand the principle of knitting and easily master the rest of the options.

The classic "eight" is used on all types and types of lines, except for slippery ones. Most often used to limit the sliding float. If necessary, the knot is easily untied.

To run a node you need:

make an open loop 3 cm long from the fishing line;
overlap the root end with the free end on top;
bring the free end under the root;
insert the free end into the loop formed from above;
tighten the knot.

The figure-eight knot has several varieties that are used in one case or another, depending on the diameter of the fishing line, the shape and size of the hook.

Attaching hooks with a ring

"Eight over the ring" is performed above the hook ring on the main fishing line:

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Lures using pheromones.

You can get the rest of the secrets of successful fishing for free by reading our other articles on the site.

pass the free end of the fishing line through the hook ring;
perform a closed loop: bring the free end under the root and place it in the loop between the crossing of the ends of the fishing line and the ring of the hook;
tighten the knot;
trim the free end to 2-2.5 mm.

"Fisherman's Eight" is performed by the girth of the ring and the forearm of the hook:

The "Canadian" figure eight is performed on the shank of the hook:

Attaching a hook with a spatula

The following type of knot is used when crocheting a leash:

Tying lines

“Eight” is used when splicing broken fishing lines and for attaching leashes. For the knot, you can use fishing lines with both equal and different diameters.

Linking the lines together is done in two ways.

Direct way:

Reverse way:

Loop tying

The “Eight” loop knot is used for attaching sinkers, feeders, jig heads, and connecting fishing lines using the “loop-to-loop” method:

fold the free end in half, forming a loop;
encircle a double root with an overlap;
bring the free end into the initial loop;
tighten the knot;
trim the free end to 2-2.5 mm.

Finally a few useful tips for tying knots:

The main condition when performing any knot: the knot should not deform the fibers of the vein, which affects its strength characteristics.
In case of doubts about the strength, the knot can be treated with moisture-resistant quick-drying glue.
If at spinning fishing the free end of the fishing line sticks out to the side, it can be pressed against the vein and varnished. Colored varnish will add fascination to the spinner or jig head.
When changing the fishing line / cord, before going to the “cherished” place, you should check the knot for its properties at home.
Before tightening, all knots must be moistened with water to prevent deformation of the vein fibers due to thermal stress.

The figure-eight knot is primarily good for its versatility. Having mastered the technique of tying the “eight”, you can immediately start fishing, because this knot alone is enough to fully prepare for fishing.

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MORE >>

What are fishing knots for? ⇩
Let's start from the end ⇩
Fishing knots: getting ready for fishing ⇩
Spatula hook knot ⇩
Gripping unit ⇩
Canadian eight ⇩
Fishing Eight ⇩
Step Knot ⇩
Turtle Knot ⇩
California Knot ⇩
Lead knots ⇩
Wobbler knots ⇩
Let's go to the fish - which hook to take? ⇩
Which hook is for what? ⇩

To be a successful angler, you need to master various skills. One of the most important is the ability to tie knots.

What are fishing knots for?

Fishing knots are used to tie hooks, nozzles, swivels and weights to the fishing line, as well as to connect fishing lines of different diameters to each other and tie leashes.

If the knot is tied incorrectly or the wrong knot is used that is suitable for a given tackle and type of fishing line, then there is a risk that at the most crucial moment it will untie or break.

Let's start from the end

To learn how to tie various knots for fishing, you first need to practice a little on a fairly thick cord or rope. So it is much easier to understand the principle of tying a particular knot.

Usually, only one end of the fishing line is used for tying hooks. The other end is not used. In some works on the theory of tying knots, this end is called the root end, and the free end is called the running end.

Now we will analyze which knots are most often used for fishing equipment, as well as the features and applications of these knots.

Fishing Knots: Getting Ready for Fishing

Spatula hook knot

Most often, the Dumhof knot is used for hooks with a spatula. It is especially suitable for large and medium sized hooks. On small hooks, it may be difficult to tie due to the short shank.

The reliability of the node is 75-80%.

Tying pattern:

fold the fishing line in half along the forearm.
holding the fishing line, we begin to wrap the free end of the fishing line around the forearm and the loop, making turns gradually moving away from the shoulder blade
it is important to lay the turns one after the other, preventing them from overlapping. Otherwise, the loss of strength of the connection is inevitable.
after 6-7 turns and wind the line into the loop
tighten the knot, but not completely and move it to the shoulder blade.
after that, firmly tighten the knot so that it does not slip through the shoulder blade.

grip knot

The knot is known for its simplicity and for being great on all types of line.

Tying pattern:

make 5-7 turns around the main line
we pass the fishing line into the loop at the ring of the hook and tighten it.

Good for braided line. When using a synthetic fishing line (monofilament), it can begin to slip with increasing load and untie.

Tying pattern:

we pass the fishing line through the fastening ring of the hook
make a half knot so that the free end passes between the fishing line and bottom hook;
in the same way, just below, we make another semi-knot and tighten the knot

Canadian eight

Holds well on monofilament line. It is not only easy to tie, but also easy to untie if desired.

Tying pattern:

we pass the fishing line through the fastening ring of the hook
we make a turn around the forearm and again thread it into the ring, forming a closed loop
make a turn around the main line.
we thread the fishing line into the ring so that the main fishing line and the free end are on opposite sides of the hook ring
tighten the knot

Fishing Eight

Very reliable node, although not as easy to tie as the previous ones. It is very compact and, as a result, invisible to fish.

Tying pattern:

thread the free end of the fishing line into the hook ring
make a turn around the shank and thread the line back through the ring, forming a loop on the shank of the hook
we make one turn around the main fishing line, thread it into the loop and tighten

Step knot

Another option for forged hooks, which have a spatula instead of a ring. He's a little harder

Tying pattern:

fold the fishing line in half and press it to the shank of the hook
wrap 2-3 times the shank of the hook and the main line
then we make several turns around both the forearm and the entire loop
we wind the fishing line into a loop and tighten

turtle knot

Suitable for braided line. A monofilament line tied with such a knot can untie.

Tying pattern:

we pass the fishing line through the fastening ring of the hook
form a loop and tie a simple knot

Simple and reliable. Does not untie even under very heavy loads.

Tying pattern:

fold the fishing line in half (you can tie a non-tightening loop)
we pass the fishing line folded in half through the hook ring
put the hook into the loop and tighten

This knot is gaining popularity among professional anglers. Works great on monofilament lines. The strength in the knot area is practically not lost.

Tying pattern:

we pass the fishing line into the hook ring and pull it up
make a small loop
wrap the double base 3-4 times
pass the free end through the loop and tighten

California knot

A simple and reliable way to tie not only hooks, but also swivels, baubles, sinkers.

Tying pattern:

fold 10 cm of fishing line in half
we thread the hook into the fastening ring and tie a knot on the main fishing line
between the lines of the double end we start the hook and tighten

The node is universal in use. They can firmly fix not only the hook, but also other gear on the fishing line. However, it is quite difficult to tie. Used for catching big fish.

When the hook is tied in this way, the load is distributed not only on the eye of the hook, but also on the shank, which greatly reduces the likelihood of the hook breaking when playing.

Tying pattern:

thread the free end of the line through the ring of the hook
wrap a couple of times around the main fishing line
we pass the fishing line through the loop next to the hook ring
gently symmetrically lower the entire knot onto the shank of the hook and tighten

Rare node. Although it retains almost 100% strength of the line, it is difficult to tie. You also need to have a piece of wire on hand. But if you get used to it, then this knot will last a long time.

Rather, you will need to change the fishing line due to wear and tear than tie a tuna knot. It is also unusual in that it does not contain “nooses”, so it is great for braided fishing line, but not so much for monofilament line.

Tying pattern:

we thread the wire into the hook ring first, then the free end of the fishing line
make 10-12 turns along the wire towards the hook ring
we thread the free end of the fishing line into the eye of the hook so that the main fishing line is on the same side
we pull the turns of the fishing line from the wire onto the fishing line in front of the hook ring and tighten.

Lead knots

Leashes can be tied to the main fishing line if you make loops on it. The loop can be made both temporary and permanent.

Time loop. The advantage is that this loop can be easily untied when it is no longer needed.

Tying pattern:

we take the main fishing line and make a double loop (you can wind it around your finger).
pinch the loop at the base
we take a leash and tie any knot at its end, you can “eight”
we pass the free end of the leash with a knot into the loop of the main fishing line
making a simple loop
we pass the end of the leash with the hook through the knot at the free end of the leash and tighten it

If you plan to make the leash on a permanent basis, then you need to make a stationary loop on the main line.

Tying pattern:

we make a loop on the main fishing line with a diameter of 10-12 cm
holding the base of the loop, wrap the top around the main line 4-5 times
we pass the top between the fishing lines at the base of the loop and tighten.
We tie the leash according to the scheme described for the temporary loop.

Wobbler knots

Tight loop. Tying pattern:

tighten and tie another simple knot.

Knot with a "blind" loop. Tying pattern:

we make a regular knot on the fishing line and do not tighten it
we pass the fishing line first through the mounting ring, and then through the knot we made
we make one turn through the knot and start the free end between the fishing lines at the fastening ring
tighten the knot

For baits it is good to use the Rapala knot. Thanks to this node, the wobbler is in correct position and does not twist.

Tying pattern:

we make a regular knot on the fishing line and do not tighten it
we pass the fishing line first through the mounting ring, and then through the knot we made
make 5-6 turns around the main line and return it back
tighten the knot

Let's go to the fish - which hook to take?

Choose a hook depending on what kind of fish you are aiming to catch. The main thing is that the hook is sharp. If the tip of the hook is even a little dull, immediately change it.

Which hook is for what?

For cyprinids, hooks with a short shank are effective. They roll in the fish's mouth and increase the chance of hooking. Hooks with longer shafts are easier to pull out of the fish's mouth. When predatory fish this is important. Forged hooks are more durable, but less convenient, because they have a spatula instead of an eye at the end of the forearm.

In this article, we looked at the main options for knots for fishing. Perhaps not all of them will be useful to you. Choose for yourself several convenient options, get the hang of tying them and then fishing will give you even more pleasure. There will be fewer unpleasant gatherings and line breaks, and more trophies. Successful fishing!

Fishing knots for hooks and leads. Tying schemes and recommendations for use Link to the main publication

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"The knot will be tied, the knot will be untied ..."- this is how the Russian singer Alena Apina sings in the once popular song. Only in mountaineering, the knot must be tied so that there is no unforeseen “untied”, but at the same time, if necessary, it should be easily untied.

Most of the climbing knots are of marine origin. In the beginning it was ... Hence the marine names of many knots.

Quite often we use various nodes in everyday life, without even thinking about their name, origin and use in mountaineering or navigation.

When classifying nodes in mountaineering, they most often rely on their purpose and distinguish 3 categories:

binding (or for binding);
strapping (or for strapping and loops);
auxiliary.

Knots for tying ribbons and ropes

Used for tying ribbons and ropes, both the same diameter and different.

In the first case, most often used:

direct (marine);
clew;
weaving.

In the second:

counter;
bramshkotovy;
academic.

straight knot

The straight knot is very simple to perform: both ends of the rope are parallel on one side.

Its main drawback is spontaneous "sliding", i.e. propensity for self-unleashing.

In this regard, for additional strength, its ends are strengthened with control safety knots (“controls”), although in everyday life this is most often not necessary. These "controls" under extreme loads on the rope will prevent it from slipping and untying the main knot.

How to tie a straight knot step by step

Grapevine

The grapevine knot is considered reliable and beautiful. It is used not only for tying ribbons and ropes, but also for knitting loops for bookmarks and guy loops.

It is extremely practical when tying a lanyard loop.

The advantage of this node is the ability to adjust the length of the loop.

Under the influence of the load, it is able to tighten strongly.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a grapevine knot

Counter knot

The counter knot is ideal if you need to tie perfectly different materials, for example, a tape with a rope, a rope with a cord, etc.

Not only does it hold well and does not creep, but it is also easily untied after the load is removed. At the same time, it tightens perfectly under load.

The counter node has a second name - looped. In the practice of mountaineering, loops of braid of different widths are often used. To tie them, only a counter knot is used. That's where the second name comes from.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting an oncoming knot

clew knot

The clew knot creeps only under variable loads, but at the same time it does not tighten.

This knot belongs to the category of reliable and knitting easily.

Tying "controls" is a must.

Knitting a clew knot step by step

weaving knot

The weaving knot is very simple in execution, but it is able to tighten strongly under heavy loads and crawl under variable loads.

It is often used during rescue operations in the mountains while providing assistance to victims.

Step by step instructions for knitting a weaving knot

Bramstring knot

Bramshkotovy knot is single and double.

Perfectly binds ropes of different diameters. When performing, you need to monitor the parallel arrangement of the strands and the correctness of the knot pattern.

academic node

The academic node is a relative of the direct node.

Ideal for tying ropes of different diameters.

A loop is made with a thick rope, and a loop is wrapped with a thin one. Be sure to tie control knots for reliability.

Knots for tying and loops

These knots are used to tie the climber when organizing insurance and to form non-tightening loops.

Remember the beginning of the movie with Sylvester Stallone?

Bowline

Bowline is used for tying to the main rope.

There are two options for knitting a knot. Traditional sequence and knitting with one end of the rope. The second option is more suitable for tying the chest harness harness.

A simple bowline needs to be fixed with a control knot, as it is prone to unraveling. This knot must always be tightly tightened.

Bowline knot step by step instructions

double bowline

The double bowline was proposed by the mountaineering instructor Emelyanov E.B. for binding as particularly reliable.

When knitting it, a soft rope or half-rope about 5 meters or a 20 mm tape is used.

The knot is characterized by the presence of two self-insurance loops:

At the end of the rope that enters the loops of the chest harness.
This one is longer, at the end of which it connects the gazebo loops.

This knot allows, in the presence of self-insurance on a short loop, not only to dissolve lower part pergola, but also to remove it. This technique is used when there is a need to change clothes while moving along the rock (for example, take off).

Node Explorer

The conductor knot has one indisputable advantage - the extraordinary simplicity of its knitting.

Sometimes we often use it in everyday life, not even suspecting that the knot is climbing!

Since the conductor tends to be strongly tightened under the influence of a load, it is recommended to insert a metal object into the plexus, which will simplify its further untying.

This simple knot can be made either at the end or in the middle of a rope. One of the nodes often used in rescue work.

Application:

in the absence of a harness for tying to the middle of the rope;
for tying ropes.

figure eight knot

The figure eight knot is one of those knots that does not require control knots.

It is characteristic that it does not drag on and does not creep.

This knot is obtained as a result of an additional half-turn of the loop after knitting the initial stage of the conductor.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a figure eight knot

Auxiliary nodes

This includes a number of nodes that are necessary when pulling the crossing and railings, when lifting a load or a person.

Knot (loop) Garda

Knot (loop) Garda is applicable on a rope of any condition. Very easy to tie.

Used:

when transporting the victim;
for insurance.

Grasping knot

The grasping knot has lost its position in the category of the main ones used for insurance.

This is due to the fact that in practice and during tests under extreme conditions, melting often occurred, or even worse, a break in the assembly. However, it does a great job when there is not much friction when moving very fast on the rope.

It is knitted from an auxiliary rope to the main one. There are two ways to knit it:

loop;
one end of the cord.

Tip: to increase reliability, you can knit three turns.

Bachmann knot and carabiner knot

The Bachmann knot (Fig. a - c) can be easily pulled along the rope with no load. Its reliability is evident in any type of work involving the transportation of victims.

You can knit on single and double rope.

Step-by-step instructions for knitting a Bachmann knot

The carbine knot (Fig. d, e) has the same characteristics and applications as the Bachmann knot.

Stirrup

The stirrup can be called a universal knot, which is very easy to tie either at the end of the rope or in the middle.

The academic knot is a more reliable knitting, somewhat improved, of the surgical knot. The academic version of tying has two small knots, instead of one fixed one, like the surgical one. That is why this knot is considered more durable and reliable.

Academic knitting

The ancestor of this knot is a straight knot, only when knitted it wraps around the main rope twice instead of once.

This pattern of knot weaving is repeated one more time.

This forms a double half-knot, which is twisted in opposite directions. That is why the academic knot does not tighten with large pulling forces and is easier to untie.

The photo shows this tourist knot, which can be done in stages, for example, like a sea topsheet.

Node example

How to knit an academic knot

Tying scheme

Take 2 ropes, possibly of different diameters, and cross them towards each other.
The ropes are intertwined with each other once.
Then a pair of ends of the laces is pulled to the side.
Then they cross again to each other and once again also intertwine.
Both ends of the laces are tightened in different directions. The academic knot is tied.

Academic node application

This tourist knot is used when it is necessary to tie a rope or tighten a cable, fishing line. The knot will perfectly connect ropes or cables of different sections. It is used by climbers, fishermen and tourists.

The knot is highly reliable, although it is easy to knit and easy to untie. They can very simply and quickly tie a cable and a synthetic thick thread or rope.

Tying together torn ropes or cables is the main purpose of the knot.

They are also knitted with coarse ropes at industrial enterprises. The academic knot is used for its main purpose not only in fishing and manufacturing, but also in tourism, mountaineering.

1. Knots for tying ropes of the same diameter: “straight”, “weaving”, “oncoming”, “grapevine”.

2. Knots for tying ropes of different diameters: "academic", "bramshkotovy".

3. Knots for insurance (non-tightening loops): “simple conductor”, “eight”, “middle Austrian conductor”, “double conductor”.

4. Knots for tying ropes to a support: “noose”, “bowline”, “stirrup”.

5. Auxiliary nodes: "grasping", "stirrup".

The stirrup knot can be used in two cases, but the knitting methods will be different.

"Straight":

The knot can be knitted in two ways: 1. A loop is made with one rope (Fig. 1, a), and the necessary turns are made with the second rope to get the knot, as in Figure 1, b. The running ends should be 15-20 cm long so that control knots can be tied (Fig. 7, e). If one running end is on top and the other is on the bottom, or vice versa, then the knot is tied incorrectly. The running ends should come out either only from above, or only from below.

Rice. 1. "Direct"

Two ropes are placed on top of each other and two simple knots are tied in different directions (Fig. 1, c, d). If the knots are tied in one direction, then a "woman's knot" is obtained (Fig. 1, e). Next, control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 1, f).

"Weaving" knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are taken, overlapped, then a control knot is knitted first on one side (Fig. 2, a), then on the other (Fig. 2, b). Next, the knots are pulled together and control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 2, c).

Rice. 2. "Weaving" knot

"Counter" node:

We take two ropes of the same diameter, at the end of one we knit a simple knot (Fig. 3, a), then with the second rope towards the running end of the first rope we completely repeat the knot so that it turns out double and the running ends come out in different directions (Fig. 3, b) . After that, the knot is tightened, the control knots usually do not fit (Fig. 3, c).

Rice. 3. "Counter knot"

Grapevine knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are placed on top of each other, a double control knot is tied on one side (Fig. 4, a), then the same on the other (Fig. 4, b). The nodes are pulled together (Fig. 4, c). Control knots do not fit. The correct drawing of the node is shown in Figure 4, d.

Rice. 4. Grapevine

Bramshkotovy knot:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop from the thicker rope, and wrap it with the running end of the thin one as shown in Figure 5, a, b. Then the knot is tightened, straightened, and control knots are knitted at both ends (Fig. 5, c).

Rice. 5. Bramshkotovy

"Academic" node:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a thicker loop, and use the running end of a thin rope to twist the loop as shown in Figure 6, a, b. The knot is tightened, straightened, and control knots are tied at both ends (Fig. 6, c).

Rice. 6. "Academic"

Node "simple conductor":

It is knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and a simple knot is tied at the end of it (Fig. 7, a, b) to form a loop. A control knot is tied below (Fig. 7, c).

Rice. 7. "Simple Explorer"

Knot "eight":

Knitted with one rope. It is folded in half and a knot is tied at the end, resembling the number eight (Fig. 8, a, b). The knot straightens, tightens. The control knot does not fit (Fig. 8, c).

Rice. 8. "Eight"

Knot "middle Austrian conductor":

The knot is knitted on one rope. The rope is taken by the middle, then, by turning 360 °, a figure eight is formed from it (Fig. 9, a), the top of which goes down and is dragged, as shown by the arrow in Figure 9, b, so that the loop comes out. In order to get the correct knot (Fig. 9, c), you need to stretch the ends of the rope in different directions. The control knot does not fit.

Rice. 9. "Middle Austrian guide"

Knot "double conductor", or "hare ears":

Knitted on one rope. The rope is folded in half, a “dummy” is knitted on it (Fig. 10, a), tightened (Fig. 10, c) and tied so that it is untied if you pull it by the loop. In the case when the "dummy" is tied the other way around, the "double conductor" knot will not work. Then the lower loop is passed through, as shown by the arrow in Figure 10, b, so that the Two upper loops pass through it, and is pulled together by the upper loops to the knot (Fig. 10, c).

Rice. 10. "Double Conductor"

A correctly tied knot is shown in Figure 10, d. It is necessary to ensure that when tying the knot there is no overlap of the ropes. "Double Conductor" has no control nodes.

Node "noose":

The knot is knitted with one rope around the support. The support refers first to the running end, which serves to attach the rope, and then to its working end, which is directly used by the tourist (Fig. 11, a). Next, the running end of the rope makes several turns around the working end (at least three) and a control knot is tied (Fig. 11, b). Then the knot is tightened.

Rice. 11. "Choke"

Knot "stirrup":

The knot is tied with one end of the rope around the support. The running end of the rope is wrapped around the support, then knitted as shown in Figure 12, a. After that, the knot is tightened and fixed with a control knot (Fig. 12, b). If a stirrup knot is used when attaching to a support, it is tightened as tight as possible and the control knot is knitted as close to the support as possible.

Rice. 12. "Stirrup"

Rice. 13. "Stirrup" as a support for the leg.

Knot "Bowline":

Knitted with one end of the rope around the support. Having stepped the required distance from the edge of the rope, make a loop by turning the rope 180° clockwise, then the support is surrounded by the running end (shown with a cross in the figure) and the end is threaded into the resulting loop (Fig. 14, a). Next action: the running end is wrapped around the working rope and threaded into the loop from the reverse side (Fig. 14, b). The knot is tightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 14, c).

Rice. 14. "Bowline"

"Bowline" can be tied in another way, with the help of a "pacifier". To do this, instead of a loop, a “dummy” is tied so that it is untied when jerking at the working end, and not at the running one. The support is enclosed by the running end (Fig. 15, a). Then it is carried into the “dummy” loop, and when the working end is pulled, the “dummy” loop, together with the running end, passes through the knot (Fig. 15, b). On the resulting bowline knot, all that remains is to tie a control knot (Fig. 15, c).

Rice. 15. Bowline with a pacifier

"Grab" knot:

The knot is tied with a cord (6 mm) on the main rope (diameter 10-12 mm). The cord is folded in half, the rope is wrapped around it (Fig. 16, a, b). Then the operation is repeated (Fig. 16, c, d). After this, the knot is tightened, straightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 16, e). The control knot is not needed if the cord is previously tied into a loop with an “oncoming” or “grapevine” knot.

Rice. 16. "Grab" knot.

Sometimes a "grasping" knot is tied at one end of the cord. The rope is wrapped with one end of the cord twice in one direction, then in the other (Fig. 17, a, b, c). Then the knot is tightened, straightened and necessarily fixed with a control knot (Fig. 17, d).

Rice. 17. "Grab" knot at one end.

Additional nodes:
Node "dummy":

Rice. 18. "Empty".

Knitting method. The rope is taken by the middle and a simple knot is tied (Fig. 18, a), but instead of tightening the ends, a tightening loop is made (Fig. 18, b).

"Marking" node:

This knot serves to tie the rope after it is coiled (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. "Marking" node.

"Bachmann knot":

Rice. 20. "Bachmann knot".

The cord is snapped into the carabiner (Fig. 20, a), with the carabiner open, 3-4 turns are made (Fig. 20 b), then the carabiner sleeve is twisted, the knot is straightened and tightened (Fig. 20, c).

"Carbine noose":

The knot is used to tie a rope to a support. It is used when the rope needs to be pulled off after a descent, for example.

A “figure eight” is tied at the end of the rope, a carabiner is snapped into it (Fig. 21, a), then the rope is wrapped around the support and the carabiner is snapped into the working (load) end of the rope. The clutch of the carabiner is twisted, and the knot is tightened (Fig. 21, b).

Rice. 21. "Carbine noose."

"Double bowline":

Fig.22. Connection of parts of the safety system with a double bowline knot: a - chest harness loops; b - initial loop; c - this piece of rope must be at least 2 m; g - underlash of the lower strand of the rope passing in the loops of the gazebo; d - gazebo loop; e - self-insurance loop 1.1 m long; g - self-insurance loop 1.7 m long