Tourist knot grasping symmetrical prusik. Grasping knot: how to tie, a simple and understandable scheme

There are two variants of nodes - direct and reverse. With the direct version, the grasping loop is wound up along the rope, with the reverse version - down. This knot is easy to knit and loosens easily when the load is removed. It can be knitted with a sling.

The direct version of the knot (item 1) is recommended for use as a clamp, usually when tensioned hinged ferry, work with a chain hoist. In this case, it is knitted from a double 6 mm loop or from an 8 mm loop. In this case, 4-6 turns of the loop are made around the rope. The knot is also known as "winding", "Klemheist(The Klemheist)"

The reverse version of the knot (item 2) is used for self-insurance on vertical railings (like Prusik). In this case, they are limited to two, maximum three turns of the loop around the rope.

The knot seems very simple, however, some skill is required for its clear, without subsequent spreading of the hoses, knitting.

Knot works only one way down. Note that the retaining loop in the knot is at the top. With its such an arrangement, the tightening of the knot occurs simultaneously in both the upper and lower hoses, and the knot pattern does not creep.

Another way of knitting is not to knit a knot from the bottom up, the end of the loop, but vice versa, from the top down, starting to wind the hoses from the end of the loop pressed to the main rope.

"Autoblock" or "French Grasping Knot"

The knot is a variant of the Austrian grasping knot. It can also be knitted from a sling. The knot is very simple, easily loosened after the load is removed, and works well as a safety knot. This knot has a number of significant advantages over the Prusik and other grasping knots:

- "Autoblock" is much easier to loosen after the load is removed. In most cases, if necessary, the "auto block" can be moved and loosened even under load. That is, there is much less chance that the knot will tighten tightly.

- "Autoblock" is untied very quickly - just unfasten one of the loops from the carabiner and the knot is instantly unwound. It is much less likely to lose the loop for the knot, as it remains fastened into the carabiner.

"Autoblock" is much more convenient than "Prusik" for working as a pulling unit in a chain hoist and in many other cases. The “auto-block” is especially convenient for securing rappelling. The only drawback of this knot is that the quality of the “auto-block” to a greater extent (compared to other grasping knots) depends on the quality of the cord or line from which it is made:
For reliable operation of the “autoblock”, it is especially important to use a soft, high-quality cord. An auto block made from a rigid cord may work worse than a Prusik made from the same turnip.

Bachmann knot

One of the most famous grappling knots using a carabiner. Such a knot is easy to move along the rope, it is very easily weakened after the load is removed.

The carabiner with its long side is applied to the main rope. The cord is quilted into a carabiner, folded in half and wrapped 2-3 times around the main rope and the long side of the carabiner, with each turn it is quilted through the carabiner. Under load, the cord (knot) presses the carabiner to the rope and prevents its movement. To move the knot along the rope, remove the load from the knot and move the carabiner in any direction. The knot relaxes more easily, even after heavy loads, than just grasping, however, when the ends of the cord are loaded, it does not work immediately, it can slip a little.

The knot in rock climbing and mountaineering refers to the basic elements. For a mountaineer, the practice of working with knots is as crucial as the ability to knit sea knots was in the days of sailing. It would be correct to say that the foundations of modern knotting technology were formed precisely in that pre-steam era. The sailors had to climb the masts at a decent height and fix the sails in such a way that they could withstand the huge force of the wind pushing the ship.

Requirements have changed little since then. They should be strong, provide a secure fit and, if possible, be easily untied.

What nodes are

No one can give an exact answer to the question of how many options there are to tie a knot. With all the variations and nuances, there will be a couple of thousand of them. It is clear that there is hardly a person who, at least in theory, knows all of them.

To be fair, it should be noted that there are people who are especially fanatical about knotting and masterfully know how to knit a hundred or two options. Most climbers use a limited set.

It is customary to allocate basic set, which should be mastered by any person intending to go mountain climbing. In this category should be mentioned:

Flemish (figure eight);
double fisherman (grapevine);
Italian (UIAA);
stirrup;
prusik;
oak.

You can also select a block of basic additional nodes that are used by more experienced climbers:

bowline;
Austrian guide (butterfly);
Austrian grasping;
French grasping;
Munter's knot;
loop Garda.

General rules

Knit a certain knot should always be the same, without any options.
Knots should be “beautiful”, have the correct pattern, and not have overlaps.
Be sure to tighten the rope well.
The length of the free ends is from 6 rope diameters.

Basic knots

Knowledge of the basic nodes and the ability to combine them is enough to solve most climbing problems.

Flemish (figure eight)

The simplest, most versatile and most versatile knot. It is used for insurance, for tying two ropes, for organizing a bundle. Has several options:

Simple eight (for insurance)
Double eight (for the organization of an insurance station of increased reliability)
Counter eight (tying the ends of two ropes)

It got its name because, when tied, the rope "draws" the number "8".

Double Fisherman (Grapevine)

One of the most reliable, which, unlike the Flemish figure eight, is also suitable for tying ropes of different diameters. To do this, the ropes are placed in parallel. First, one rope is knitted onto another, then vice versa. A feature of grapevine is that it needs to be tightened well. A small drawback - it is difficult to untie.

Italian (half stirrup, UIAA) and stirrup

The knot needs to be known, because. it is used when lifting or rappelling in case of absence belay device. It is one and a half loops fixed in a pear-shaped carabiner. It provides a good glide of the rope. Allows you to control the course of the cable, insuring against falling.

The stirrup is a sophisticated version of the Italian half stirrup. It consists of two loops fixed on a carabiner, on a support, on any object with a smooth surface, as well as on a tree, a pole, etc. It is used to make stirrups, stretchers.

prusik

Belongs to the group of seizing knots. It is knitted with an auxiliary rope (cord) on the main rope. It is used for belaying during ascent and descent, when lifting a load, when pulling a rope at a crossing. The advantage of the Prusik is its "double" state. If the cord is loose, it moves easily along the rope, and when a load is applied, it tightens and stops movement.

The ratio of the diameter of the cord and the base is important - 2:3. That is, with a cord diameter of 7 mm, the base should be approximately 10 mm. Also, the cord should be soft, with a nylon braid. Kevlar and dyneema ropes should be avoided.

oak knot

Advantage - ability the best way pass obstacles and not get stuck in relief dismemberments. It is a safe alternative to the counter eight when descending on a double rope with the need for further pulling.

The knot is easy to knit (it is also called a simple flat) - at the end of the rope, in the middle, at one end. It drags on while loading. On hard ropes with a heavy load, it slowly crawls. But in any case, the load at which oak knot starts to crawl, twice the one at which the figure eight slips. The scope of use is wide: for attaching a loop to something, for tying a Prusik to a safety system, use it as a “just in case” knot when lifting and other situations.

Additional nodes

Although basic mountaineering tasks can only be performed using a basic knot set, more complex additional options allow you to work more efficiently and faster. Most of them require knitting a mandatory control knot right next to the controlled one.

Bowline

Reliable, but limited in application node. It is not suitable for tying to a rope, for blocking a chest harness. The main application is tying to a support: to a tree, rings, a pole, a stone. Tends to creep under varying loads. Pros: it does not tighten much, it is easily untied, and therefore it is widely used in rock climbing. In a bowline, you cannot load the station loop, but only the main outgoing rope.

Austrian conductor (Butterfly)

Lightweight and in some situations irreplaceable. It is used to form braking knots in a bundle, to isolate a damaged section of a rope, to form an attachment point on a rope, to tie two ropes of the same diameter. It requires almost no skills, even beginners can easily knit it. After removing the load, it is easily untied.

Austrian grasping

The scheme and purpose are the same as those of the Prusik. It can serve as a belay device, clamp, be used for fixing on a rope. The Austrian grip is considered the best for use in extreme conditions: on icy, dirty, wet rope. It is rigidly fixed on the rope, bending it, minimizing slippage. For this reason, he is not the most the best choice for the organization of a suspension crossing.

The number of turns of the cord around the main rope can be increased on thin and slippery rope, thus achieving greater reliability. On the double - on the contrary, reduced. The average number of turns is from 6 to 10. The ratio of the diameter of the cord and the warp is the same as in the Prusik.

french grasping

Light version of the Austrian version. He is more mobile on the main rope. Suitable for situations where the system needs to be loosened under load, such as during rescue operations and emergency descent of the victim. Compared to Prusik and Austrian Grasp, it requires less effort to control.

Munter's knot

Complicated knot combination: half stirrup, reef and control knots. It is used when organizing a crossing, for fixing a grappling knot to the station, for blocking belay and descenders.

Loop Garda

It has a limited scope. It is used when organizing the lifting of cargo in the chain hoist system. Since the loop is thoroughly fixed by the applied load, it is not used as a top insurance.

It is easy to knit, which allows you to minimize the requirements for the condition of the rope. The noose performs well on wet, muddy and icy ropes. It is effective only when tying two unmuffed carabiners, which, in turn, must be attached to a free loop. Only in such a system will the Garda loop function correctly.

What do people usually remember when they hear about rock climbing, mountaineering, and hiking in general? Well, a fire, a tent, Everest, all sorts of ropes - it's understandable, but according to my observations, at some point you will definitely be asked the question: "Do you know how to knit all sorts of knots?"

In fact, to the untrained eye of the layman, all these ropes and knots seem to be an incomprehensible science, a continuous hodgepodge of tricky names and tricky knitting recipes. While everything is much simpler, especially if you are a rock climber.

Figure 8 (figure 8 loop)

So, if you are climbing in the gym, and on the rocks you do not plan to climb trails longer than one rope (that is, not for you), then all you need to be able to knit is a figure-eight knot (or "Flemish loop"). This knot is used to tie the rope into a belay system when climbing with the bottom and with the top belay. Why exactly him?

There are several advantages:

Under load, it does not "creep", that is, it cannot untie itself, from tension.

Fits quite easily, although, of course, you need regular practice

The correctness of the node is easy to determine - it must be "beautiful". Yes, that's right: all branches should run in parallel, without overlaps and weakening of the loops. But even if you tie a figure eight very crookedly, it will still retain reliability.

Less than other knots, weakens the rope. Yes, that's right: any deviation of the geometry of the rope from a straight line degrades the strength. In this case, choosing an 8 to bind a person is the most obvious option.

This knot is the only one allowed for tying athletes in competitions. However, athletes are still required to tie a so-called "control knot", conductor or semi-grape wine at the free end.

An important addition: you must be able to knit the second version of the figure eight, the so-called "eight on a carabiner". It is easy to tie in just a second and get a strong loop to which you can attach a carabiner. The carabiner, let me remind you, can be used to attach a person to a belay system only in the gym and only when using a second carabiner deployed in the opposite direction.

Bowline

Separately, it is worth mentioning the bowline knot (more precisely, a double bowline). Yes, you may have seen how many climbers use it to tie a rope to themselves. It has one advantage over the figure eight: it does not tighten after a sharp load or breakdown. However, it is more difficult to remember and it is easy for a beginner to make a mistake that can be fatal. Plus it weakens the rope more. In general, if for some reason you do not know how to knit a double bowline with your eyes closed, if you are a beginner and want to get involved "not like everyone else", then believe me, your safety is worth it to exclude even the slightest possibility of error. Knit a figure eight.

See? Just one node. If your sporting regimen is occasional climbing indoors, infrequent in climbing, in prepared climbing, in the company of more experienced climbers, then this is all you need to know.

Auxiliary nodes

However, if you slightly expand your horizons, then the so-called auxiliary knots will fall into it, such as: the stirrup knot, the grasping knot (Prussian knot) and the UIAA knot. Of course, the list is far from complete, but these three are the most popular and necessary. Most likely, you won’t use them right away, but it’s better if you still learn them, especially since these are related knots and when you tie it incorrectly, for example, with a stirrup, you will get grasping (or vice versa)

Stirrup, aka clove hitch

It was originally used to fix the crossbars on the ship's shrouds.

The main property - holds the rope and allows, if necessary, to easily adjust the length. Also with it you save equipment. For example, you hang at a station, and instead of a separate lanyard mustache, you simply knit a stirrup, adjusting the length to suit you at that station. Immediately learn two options for tying - for two hands and one.

Grasping knot (half grip)

The simplest clamp, a brake assembly that allows you to fix something on a rope. If several turns are made, it becomes a Prussian knot and is used downhill when right hand controls the speed of the rope passing through the SS, and the Prussian knot, imposed BEFORE the hand, slows down the rope if for some reason you suddenly open your hand.

UIAA node

Allows you to brake the rope without the use of a belay device, using one carabiner. The situation, you understand, is not very common, but it is better to always be prepared.

If you are determined to dedicate your time to bouldering, then the only knot you need to know and knit quickly and reliably is the "bow" on yours =) Which, in general, is a variant of the usual and ancient "straight" knot.

In the future, we will talk about knots for connecting ropes, and also add a few auxiliary ones, but quite useful ones.

Finally, I can advise you to carefully study the site www.animatedknots.com, where all the nodes described above (and not only) are very well and clearly shown with step by step instructions knitting and recommendations.

Grasping knots have a relatively wide scope: this is mountaineering (both tourist and industrial), and rock climbing, and caving, and rescue business. In short, wherever it is necessary to provide reliable insurance in the event of a sudden breakdown, nodal connection is required.

Grasping knots are of several types, each of them requires a separate study and careful development of knitting skills in order to do everything right in case of an extreme situation. After all, it is very important to knit safety knots as accurately as possible: without exaggeration, human life will depend on this.

Basic Rules

Grasping knots have a number distinctive features which must be taken into account and remembered:

Prusik knot

Anyone who is interested in how to make a grasping knot is usually recommended to learn this particular type in the first place. The Prusik bears the name of its creator, Karl Prusik, who invented it in 1931. The knot is tied with an auxiliary cord with a diameter of 6 to 7 mm around the main cable or rope with a diameter of 9 to 14 mm. Prusik moves itself as it moves up or down a person, and in the event of a breakdown, it is instantly tightened, thus providing reliable insurance.

For some time, it was the Prusik that reigned supreme among climbers, but over time, numerous variants of both itself and grasping knots in general appeared. However, until now it is he who is considered "basic" and mandatory for study.

The prusik knitting sequence is as follows:

a cord is taken, previously tied with a loop;
the cord is wrapped three times around the main rope so that it is inside the loop;
making sure that all the perfect turns of the loop do not overlap with each other and lie flat, you need to tighten the knot.

french prusik

First, a cord is taken on which a loop is organized.
Then it wraps around the main rope.
The cord is wound three times around the main rope. It is necessary to strictly ensure that each subsequent turn lies next to and exactly in relation to the previous turn.
The part of the cord that remains free is threaded through the loop and tightened in the direction where the load to be held should be located.

This knot belongs to the so-called crawling ones, and therefore it is strictly not recommended to take it. You can change the number of turns around the main rope as needed. As in the case of a traditional grabbing knot, the main rope must necessarily have a diameter greater than the thickness of the cord. The rule is: the closer the ropes are to each other in diameter, the lower the efficiency and, therefore, the safety of the French Prusik.

Bachmann knot

Many novice climbers are interested in grasping it, not many people know. It is usually recommended to master the so-called Bachmann knot. It bears its name thanks to the inventor - Franz Bachmann. As an insurance for oneself, this knot is used infrequently.

To tie it, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

There are also options for this insurance. For example, the incomplete Bachmann knot. When tying it, the loop first covers the main rope two or three times, and only then (also for 2-3 turns) the rope with a carabiner attached to it.

Pseudo-Bachmann is a grasping knot, the scheme of which is as follows: the cord first covers only the main rope, then the loop is fed through the carabiner, as in the case of the classic Bachmann knot. Such a knot can be organized "on the go" without unhooking the load itself. Important! Pseudo-Bahman exerts its holding properties only on a tightly stretched rope or cable. If they sag, such a knot will break.

Finally, the students of the Ural Polytechnic University proposed a variant of the pseudo-bogman, in which the tying of the knot begins in the same way as in the case of a conventional pseudo-bogman, and then the loop conductor is fastened to the carabiner. The knot was named so - UPI (after the name of the educational institution), although its author is known - the tourist A. Yu. Yagovkin.

Knot double grasping

As with other types of belays, before tying a double grasping knot, you need to make sure that the main and auxiliary ropes differ in diameter. That is, the cord should be thinner than the railing rope - optimally one and a half times.

There are two ways to tie a double grip knot. The first assumes that two grasping knots are organized on the railing main rope at a certain distance from each other. Thus, the climber can be sure that if for some reason one grasping knot fails, the second one will work.

According to another option, two loops are tied around the base of the rope. Thus, it is possible to organize both a double and a triple symmetrical gripping knot.

Grasping knot at one end

A knot that grabs at one end is tied in the same way as the classic one, however, in this case, it is not a loop that is formed as a result of folding the cord in half, but only one end of it.

Semi-gripping knot

Such a knot is, as it were, half of the grasping one. First, the auxiliary cord is wrapped around the main rope in one turn, then another turn is placed next to it (care must be taken to ensure that there are no overlaps), and the free end is threaded into the loop of the cord. This knot should never be used in mountaineering, hiking, etc. It is used exclusively in everyday life.

Straight Austrian Grasping Knot

To organize a direct grasping Austrian knot, it is recommended to use the main round rope with a diameter of 9 to 15 mm and an auxiliary cord with a diameter of 6 to 7 mm. How more difference in diameter, the stronger the knot will grip.

The double cord is tied 4-6 times around the railing rope, after which its free end is threaded into the loop in the direction from itself from the bottom up. Such a node is usually used on various kinds of crossings.

Reverse Austrian Grasping Knot

When tying such a knot, 2-3 turns of a double cord are made around the vertical railing rope in the direction from top to bottom. Back Austrian knot finds its application usually during vertical movement, including as self-insurance.

Autoblock

A distinctive feature of the autoblock is that the two ends of the cord are not threaded into the loop, but are closed with a carabiner. One has only to unfasten them, and the knot is instantly untied under the action of the elastic force of the cord.

It is preferable to use the autoblock for belaying during the descent or ascent. In some cases, it is much more reliable and safer than the same Prusik. However important point lies in the fact that the reliability of the autoblock strongly depends on the material from which both the cord and the main rope are made. Soft materials are preferred.

The most common mistakes

Beginners who have just learned how to knit grabbing knots often make the following typical mistakes: