A short guide to descenders and belay devices. Descenders and belay devices The most reliable descenders for promalp

For many centuries, people have climbed peaks and crossed passes for military, religious, commercial and scientific purposes. Starting from the 18th century, mountaineering in Europe began to develop as a sport, methods of belaying and descending with a rope began to be developed. Most simple ways braking ropes for insurance were: through a rocky ledge with a loop of rope and a carbine, in the snow - through the lower back, an ice ax. But such methods were not suitable for steep and sheer slopes. And for descending steep and difficult sections, a different method of descent was used: the rope was wrapped around the body or tucked into a carabiner, thereby increasing its friction, thanks to which it was possible to descend in a controlled manner.

In 1912, the German climber Hans Dülfer first used the method of rappelling, sitting on it without special descenders. This method made it possible to descend much faster than descending by climbing through the terrain, but at the same time it caused discomfort and required constant control. Therefore, in the USSR, they necessarily secured themselves with a grasping knot (Prusik, Marshara, etc.). Now a rappel is called a descent along a fixed rope with the help of belay and descenders.

Depending on how the rope is located on the human body, braking will also be appropriate:

a - descent in a sports gymnastic way (on slopes of medium steepness);
b - descent on steep slopes with a safety net with a grasping knot;
c - descent with braking, by the Dyulfer method (through the thigh) with a safety net with a grasping knot.

To assemble such a system, it is desirable to use carabiners of the same shape, the latches of the carabiners should look in different directions.

Pros:

collected from improvised means;
you can work on a single and double rope;
does not twist the rope;
works with ropes of different diameters;
quite easily can be locked and unlocked under
load by one person.

Minuses:

such a design, especially assembled with a hammer or ice ax, requires constant monitoring;
long enough to assemble and disassemble;
It only works in one direction - downhill.

Node UIAA (UIAA)

One of the ways to knit a UIAA knot is shown:

The UIAA knot is the simplest, most reliable means of descending and belaying.

Pros:

to use it, you need a minimum of equipment (a safety system, a carabiner, preferably an HMS, since it was designed for this knot, and a rope);
works on ropes of any diameter;
quickly and easily assembled, disassembled;
easily locks and unlocks under load if necessary to stop the descent. To block the UIAA, the Munter-Mule knot is used - it allows you to untie it without jerking under load;
works in both directions - if necessary, switch from descent to ascent
no additional manipulations are required: the knot is easily turned over and
moves to the top belay position.

Minuses:

the rope and carabiner wear out quickly. When descending on a wet rope, especially where there is a lot of sand, the carabiner “saw through” a few millimeters for a pair of rappels;
twists the rope;
a large pear-shaped (HMS) carabiner with a clutch is required for optimal knot operation. On carabiners of a different shape, the knot works worse;
when descending, the carabiner heats up, which can lead to melting of the rope.

Belay devices

Most incidents in the mountains occur not at the time of the assault, but on the descent. Climbers lost their comrades in simple, banal situations. This was the impetus for the creation of descenders.

With the introduction of synthetic climbing ropes, devices were invented that combine the methods and functions of belay and descenders, called "belay devices" (belay devices). descenders).

The belay device is a structure fixed with the help of connecting elements (carabiners) on the belay system or terrain (at the station), through which the safety rope, going from the insurer to the leader. Also, as mentioned above, these devices are also used for rappelling. In this regard, they are often called "triggers", "triggers". It must be remembered that descenders designed only for rappelling (for example, "eight") cannot be used for belaying.

Safety devices can be divided into two large groups:

1. Devices with manual rope lock (EN 15151-2 "mechanical").

In such devices, the blocking of the rope is carried out due to the friction of the rope against the device and the muscular strength of the hand.

2. Devices with auxiliary rope lock (EN 15151-1 "semi-automatic").

In such devices, the primary blocking of the rope course is carried out with the help of mechanical or structural parts of the device, and then - the muscular strength of the hand.

As a rule, to work with a modern belay device (with the exception of semi-automatic ones), you will need an HMS carabiner, that is, pear-shaped. In this case, the carabiner bar must be thick enough (about 10-12 mm) so that the bending radius of the rope is large enough, and the carabiner must be made of aluminum alloy or steel. Titanium carabiners are absolutely unsuitable for belaying because of the extremely low thermal conductivity - a carabiner heated by friction can damage the rope.

Many designs were invented, some of which were successful, but forgotten, and some became classic. Next, we will talk about the most famous of them.

Sticht washer

The Sticht washer has two slots for working with one or two ropes. Works on ropes with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm. When working with ropes of small diameters, it holds well even on an icy rope.

This device leads its pedigree from a link in an ordinary marine chain (as a variant of such a brake - a carabiner brake). Fritz Sticht suggested using a simple metal plate with slots for braking.

Photo from the Vkontakte group "Alpinist's Library"

The rope is threaded into the slot with a loop into which a carabiner is snapped (or two for strong braking). Braking occurs due to the friction of the rope on the carabiner and the edge of the slot, and also depends on the angle of coverage of the Shticht Washer by the rope. In the high braking mode (with two carabiners), the Shticht Puck surpasses the degree of braking of modern "glasses" with wedge-shaped slots, and becomes indispensable when working on thin ropes.

Cons - the rope is not fixed. When unfastening the rope, you can lose the puck if you do not secure it separately. And one more thing: no different options threading the rope, i.e. there is no way to increase or decrease friction without additional carabiners or other tricks. Also, after the load, the device “sticks” to the rope, which makes it difficult to issue it, so a spring was attached to it over time. Later, when a safety cable was added to the design, the need for a spring disappeared.

"Basket", "glass", Reverso

Modern versions of belay devices, working on the principle of the Sticht Washer, have many names in everyday life: “basket”, “glass”, “reverso”, “bast basket”.

Reverso (Verso version without additional rings) is one of the company's most popular belay devices, its name has already become a household word for such devices.

Devices without moving parts

Now belay and descenders have begun to appear, which do not have mechanical moving elements, but block the rope when loaded due to design features.

A — we issue a rope;
b — choose a rope;
V — the device self-locks, helping to stop the stall. In this case, it is necessary to load the free end of the rope coming out of the descender. Under no circumstances should the free end of the rope be released!!!
G — descent with the ability to control the speed of descent.

pros

The device itself is blocked in the event of a breakdown, which allows you to insure a person.
Very simple design.
Less weight compared to "semi-automatic" devices.

Minuses

Works with one rope, which does not allow it to be used in mountaineering.

Mammut Smart 2.0 works in a similar way, the pros and cons are the same.

The Mammut Smart Alpine is designed for two ropes and can be used in auto block mode. This device is suitable for use in both climbing and mountaineering.

pros

Can be used in auto block mode.
There are no mechanical parts, which makes it easy to operate.
Not subject to panic reflexes when used.

"Eight"

Devices of the "eight" type were developed for descent. Thanks to design features, such as "horns" or slots in the device itself, it is possible to thread the rope into the device in different ways, which allows you to change the coefficient of friction.

Minuses

Not suitable for insurance, because. with a deep stall, effective holding friction is insufficient.
It is not possible to control two ropes separately, because ropes run together.
The rope is strongly twisted due to the presence of kinks in several planes.

Classic descender of the "lattice" type with removable crossbars. The design makes it easy to remove and install them on the rope, adjusting the friction force depending on changing conditions (weight of the rope, user, etc.). Compact and lightweight device.

Thanks to the removable crossbars, the device can be easily installed on a rope.
Adjustable to the required load.
The device is friction-protected to protect the rope.
Does not twist the rope when descending.

Semi-automatic descenders and belay devices with self-locking function

Descenders are designed to provide a controlled, smooth descent, while belay devices are designed to provide both bottom and top belays, and they also increase the safety of the belay by helping to stop a fall.

One of the first semi-automatic descenders was the Petzl Stop. It traces its history back to a descender designed for cavers by Bruno Dressler, manufactured and later modified by Fernand Petzel (founder of Petzl), and subsequently used in mountaineering.

The device was a steel plate, bent in the middle, and fixed inside two rollers. The rope tucked into the device was bent in the shape of the letter S, and the friction created in the device made it possible to control the speed of descent, as well as to stop by simply pulling on the free end of the rope emerging from the device with one hand. It allowed descending along a rope (fixed at the bottom or at an intermediate point) without twisting it, which was especially important for cavers. Not afraid of dirt.

The modern version of this device already has two independent aluminum plates. With a slot at the top roller and a special plastic clip in the hole for attaching the carabiner to the belay system, which allows you to open the device and quickly thread / retrieve the rope. Also, two fixed steel rollers can be replaced with new ones as they wear out. This significantly increases the resource of the device, because. Cavers almost always work with dirty and wet rope, which wears down devices very quickly, especially aluminum ones.

today - one of the most popular devices among speleologists. Its main structural elements are the same as those of it, but it has a movable asymmetrical lower roller merged with the handle. Due to this, if you release the handle during the descent, the roller (cam) warps and presses the rope against the upper roller, thereby stopping the descent.

pros:

Doesn't spin the rope.
Replaceable rollers, which increases the resource of the device.
Descent control.
The rope is refueled without pulling the device from the belay system.
When the handle is released, it stops the descent, but it is possible to disable this mode using a carabiner.

You can use a rope clamp or a grasping knot to climb the rope.

Minuses

For sports mountaineering today it is heavy and bulky.
It poisons the rope (therefore, if you need to hang during the descent and let go, the free end must be blocked with a knot).

.

Also one of the first semi-automatic belay devices created by Petzl in 1992. It was very compact and had a movable cam that, when loaded (when falling or jerking), gripped the rope, increasing the degree of blockage until the rope slipped completely.

There was a handle to unlock the device. By clicking on it, throwing the outgoing rope and pressing it against a special cheek (which created additional friction), it was possible to smoothly begin the descent. On the descent, speed control was carried out by the hand holding the free end of the rope.

Despite the automatic blocking, it was impossible to let go of the free end of the rope, i.e. a situation could arise when the cam was not blocked, and for help it was necessary to pull the free end of the rope. For example, this could happen due to the high friction of the rope in the guy lines / on the terrain / due to smooth sliding along an inclined surface.

A similar design and technique of working with the device remained on subsequent models of the device.

Important: the device requires familiarization with the instructions and practice!

pros

When dashing, they are blocked, which allows almost no effort to stop the fall (a lighter belayer can comfortably belay a heavy leader).
Using this device and a rope clamp (jumar) or a grasping knot, one can very effectively climb a short distance along a rope in an unsupported space.

Minuses

There is no way to work with two ropes.
The device is structurally susceptible to panic reflexes. They appear when, during the descent, the belayer presses the lever too hard - the speed of the descent increases sharply, and the person reflexively presses the lever even more strongly, completely removing the blockage to the device. Structurally, this was eliminated only on the latest GRIGRI + model. The panic reflex can be eliminated by using the device correctly: before starting the descent, throw the rope over the cheek, increasing friction, and press on the handle not with the whole palm, but with several fingers.

Also, when belaying, in order to quickly give out the rope and not violate the rule of constant control, the free end of the rope must be held in such a way that the free end is in the palm of your hand and your thumbs right hand press the locking lever.

The state-of-the-art GRIGRI 2 is a compact and ultra-light semi-automatic device designed for comfortable handling of thinner ropes, with single ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm in diameter (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Only 170 g, 25% smaller and 20% lighter than the previous GRIGRI version.

The pros and cons are the same as the previous model.

GRIGRI + is the latest version in the family of one of the most popular belay devices, which has a switch between the top and bottom belay and an anti-panic function, which made it possible to eliminate the disadvantages of previous models.

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Kashevnik devices

Due to the lack of special devices for sale, enthusiasts in the USSR made handicraft triggers. One of these craftsmen was Boris Lazarevich Kashevnik, the author of a number of devices for rappelling and belaying, for example, "Insects-3".

A— bookmark one rope for insurance and descent; b– laying two ropes for belay and descent; V- the maximum distance from the carabiner to the body of the plate (braking force is less); G- the minimum distance from the carabiner to the body of the plate (the braking force is greater); d- fixing the rope; e- use of the device as a shock absorber.

The presence of round and oval holes allows you to change the distance from the carabiner to the plate and thereby choose the optimal braking force depending on the specific conditions.

Certification and marking of descenders and belay devices

In the USSR, a lot of equipment was created handicraft. Many really successful devices were invented, but they often led to injuries, because they were made from improvised materials that had not undergone proper processing, and tests were often carried out by the same enthusiasts “in the field”.

For modern equipment, norms and standards have been developed that spell out technical requirements to the minimum breaking load, materials used, descender test methods, marking, device type.

In Russia, descenders and belay-rappel devices are not included in the “Unified list of products subject to mandatory certification”, there is no technical regulation (standard for “SPORT” devices), therefore everyone uses the European standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2.

Standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2

Standard EN 15151-2: Devices with manual rope lock

Type 1: for descenders without friction adjustment function.
Type 2: for belaying and descending without friction adjustment function.
Type 3: for descenders with friction adjustment function.
Type 4: for belaying and descending with friction adjustment function.

Standard EN 15151-1: with auxiliary rope lock

Type 5: for descent with an auxiliary rope lock (“semi-automatic”), without a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”).
Type 6: for belaying and descending with an auxiliary rope lock (“semi-automatic”), without a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”). For example, .
Type 7: for descending with a blocking element in the event of a panic ("anti-panic").
Type 8: for belaying and descending with a blocking element in case of panic (“anti-panic”). For example, .

For industrial devices used in work at height or rescue operations, there are standards. The standards developed for rope access techniques for descenders are called EN 341 Personal fall arrest equipment. Descending Devices” and EN12841 “Rope Positioning Devices”. Such devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.

Marking

Manufacturer.
Device name.
Rope installation direction:

The working end of the rope.
The free end of the rope.

corresponding standard.
UIAA quality label ( International Union mountaineering associations).
Acceptable rope types and diameters.
Serial number: product batch number and year of manufacture (the picture shows the decoding of the Petzl number, each brand in the product passport indicates how the serial number is decoded).

You must read the instructions before use.
An organization that controls production.

The sequence in which the information is indicated is different for each brand.

As a rule, having come to one or another equipment center, we have before our eyes a very limited choice of equipment, both mountaineering and rock-climbing, for promalp or speleology. And all because only half of branded goods come to us from Europe, about which we have read a lot or are accustomed to using them in everyday life. In this review, it is proposed to consider the most rare and little-known brands of climbing equipment both in Russia, Ukraine and other countries of the former CIS.

Kong Futura Hand -Technical development by Matteo Rivadossi (Italy)

New hand rope clamp Futura Hand is a fresh word in size, weight and technical specifications. The weight of this device is 125g. Permissible load for these clamps - 470 kg. Recommended for ropes from 8 mm to 12.7 mm inclusive (but the most striking thing is that it stands “dead” on the Beale dynem 5.5 mm! Fantastic!). Futura Hand is perfect for both classic rail travel in the all-around tour, and for lovers of high-speed caving. In the kit you will find two interchangeable handles for different sizes hands
P.S. The crossed out 100Kg symbol on this clip is the standard CE designation indicating that this product is not certified for use as industrial and rescue equipment!

The Futura Hand blocking is a new concept that involves the application of less physical effort when rearranging the jumar along the rope. A special “cam clean” cam was installed with fundamentally new dirt removal channels (speleo), equipped with an anti-rollover system - i.e. does not require a top lock with a carabiner. The wedges of the denticles are cut at a sharper angle. Used with the Futura Foot (Petzl's counterpart to the footclip), it becomes an integral part of the Futura System, which uses the alternate step technique in the lift. The difference between the Kong jumar and the loopback ASCENSION is that in the Hand there is no distinction between left and right, that is, it does not matter to him which hand you work with him on the rope.

Unicender - created by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson

Unicender- a device for climbing a rope, designed and implemented by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson exclusively for arborists and arborists, but received its well-deserved approval and distribution also among cavers (similar to descender in work), and kyoning specialists in the form of a self-resetting trolls. Climbing a vertical rope is carried out by a person of medium physical training exclusively through own hands. No jumars, chain hoists, pedals, etc.!
In Russia and Ukraine, this device is completely absent ... which is a pity! In the promalp, he would undoubtedly find a use!

LINEBOSS manufacturer - Get International (USA)

The LINEBOSS™ is designed primarily to be used in the DdRT (Double Rope Technique) for arborists and arborists, but its versatility and combination properties may be required in other rope schools.

LINEBOSS easily handles both ascending the rope (ascender) by pulling the latter, and descending (descender) down after acting on the release handle, which unlocks the device. It can also be used as part of a work positioning system, or be taut as a line guide for support travel.
Due to the extremely small bend of the rope in the radius, there is practically no wear of the sheath, which other types of descenders cannot boast of.

Rope diameter: 11 mm - 13 mm
Critical load: - 50 Kn (5000 kg)
Working load range: - 230 - 500 kg
Weight: 425 grams

CMC RESCUE MPD, developed by CMC Rescue Equipment, USA

This is a universal device specially designed for a wide range of rescue operations, insurance and emergency descents in industrial conditions.

Can work like:

● Large load belay device (up to 280kg)
● High-performance roller with auto-lock function in the chain hoist of various multiplicity.
● Braking device for lowering the victim with one or two escorts. It has a switching system from a lowering system (lowering) to a lifting system (lifting).
● Can be used as a personal descender.
Other Features:
● SU is designed to work with rope 12.5 mm - 13.0 mm
● Weight - 1100g.
●1983 NFPA Certified

AB Descender by SAR (England)

AB Descender complies with two standards EN12841-C Descender and EN341-C Descenders Rescue. These two standards are different. Under the terms of EN12841-C, the descender can use Various types ropes, in accordance with SAR user instructions. EN341 is a standard for certain rescue/exit systems and any system certified to this standard must only be used with the type of rope with which it has been certified.
Over the past ten years, the EN12841 standard has been adapted to suit the requirements of the users.

Certain problems with other types of paratroopers, such as: sliding down the rope of the device when stopped, too much sensitivity of the control stick, at the slightest pinch of the handle, the anti-panic function would work, preventing the descent, the inability to easily stretch the rope up for some ascent, as well as the complicated design of some similar products. The designers of the AB Descender tried to overcome all these problems by adding simplicity to its design. IN A-B design The Descender has received some useful design changes from users of the old SCARAB. A small reel has been added to act as a rope safety and the main change is a larger folded lever in the handle when smoother control and less hand strain is required when descending.

IMPORTANT(!): All parts of the device experience friction during descent, which creates a high internal temperature that can damage the rope if a fall occurs or during a long, fast descent. Any of the above technical parameters are correct - when the product is new and operated in accordance with current standards.

The A-B Descender has been tested by a registered body in a simulated rescue using a 210 kg mass as required in standard 12841-C, clauses 4.4.5 and 4.4.9. It has also been tested with 100kg loaded onto the descender and 100k.

Toucan by Simond (France)

Does not twist the rope - an important quality for descenders. When falling, even with minimal friction against the wall, it eventually sits tightly on the rope, creating maximum friction, after which it practically stops the fall, but it is better not to check this yourself. It is very easy to belay with dynamic belay through Toucan. It weighs 100 grams, which is a little more than the Reverso, but a little less than a regular washer.

A small lever on the descender itself prevents the device from pinching the rope.
The lever itself allows you to gently give out the rope, or loosen the tension with the top and bottom belay. Designed for single and double ropes with a diameter of 7.5 to 11 mm.

Solo Aid SB2 by Rock Exotica (USA)

A device designed for lower belay, belay during solo ascents. The safe grasp of the rope when falling makes it possible to make the difficult process of solo climbing relatively reliable.
weight - 182 grams
breaking load - 22.7 KN
diam. ropes - 10-11 mm

CAMP Wing Traveling Pulley

Working load: 6 kN
Breaking load: 15 kN
Max. diameter: cable-12 mm, rope-13 mm
Pulley inner diameter: 26mm
Weight: 336g Original brake lock
Unique block layout helps keep clothing and hair out of the work area
wear resistant bearings
Stainless steel with increased thermal conductivity
Max Speed: 20 m/s Mammut Smart

Self-locking belay device for single rope 8.9-10.5 mm. Auto-lock for top and bottom belay (similar to Click-Up, only cheaper). Weight 82 g.

Salewa nine (Austria-Italy)

A variety of friction descenders - Salewa nine (Nine)
Diameter of working ropes - 9-11 mm

Kong DE JUMP manufacturer «KONG» Italy

Kong DE JUMP is a descender specially designed for canyoning. Equipped with a special mechanism for quick release of the device from the suspension system.
Weight: 328 gr.
Material: aluminum alloy / steel
Diameter of the rope used: 9 - 12 mm

Robot (KONG, Italy)

The trigger device is universal. The original development of the Kong, which is a hybrid of the classic figure-eight and lattice (retran) and combines the advantages of both descenders: it does not twist the rope and is light in weight. A large number of options for threading the rope.

Kong HYDROBOT (KONG, Italy)

A unique descender designed specifically for canyoning. Can be used with one or two ropes. Allows you to effortlessly change the braking speed under load. Due to the special design, the risk of accidental loss of the device, twisting of the rope and wear of the carabiner is eliminated. If an emergency lift is required, the Hydrobot can be used as a self-locking device.

Kong TRE (KONG, Italy)

This revolutionary belay device is as easy to use as a figure eight or puck, however, unlike them, TRE self-locks when jerking, allows you to work on both single and double ropes, it has become much easier to put in and out of the rope from the device. TRE Perfect for belaying climbing, canyoning, industrial mountaineering.

Kong ORTIS (KONG, Italy)

trigger control unit. Used with ropes and designed to lower a person from a height at a controlled speed (from 0.5 to 2 m/s).

Troll Pro ALLP Tech, manufactured by SAR (UK)

Weight: 585 grams
Breaking strength of the product: 20 KN
Working load: 270 kg
Slave/rope diameter: 10.5 mm - 12.7 mm
Can be used on semi-static and static ropes.
It has the ability to control the descent, both with a screw and with a handle, or in a combined way. Allows you to adjust the trigger with one hand.

With this article, Master Gumbs, I begin a series of materials about climbing pieces of iron.

It is not enough to climb a mountain or a building. From there, you still have to get off. Often, it is much more convenient to use a descender than to try to get back on your tracks, slipping and balancing. And in industrial mountaineering, in most cases, they get to the workplace by the descent method. It is far from always convenient to descend on knots. Yes, and "iron" offers a much larger number of use cases.

So - "eight" .
One of the most common descenders, descending from the legendary Sticht puck. Naturally, having a bunch of options. The principle of operation is based on increasing friction. So, the classic figure eight increases the effort on the rope by 4-20 times. For example, if you hold the rope with your hands in front of the figure eight with a force of 25 kg, then behind the figure eight the force will be 200 kg, with a grip force of 50 kg by hands - 300 kg.
Due to the large number of kinks, a common disadvantage of all figure-of-eights is that they twist the rope. This can be somewhat smoothed out by preventing the rope from touching the ground.

Bicorn, horned
Classical and specialized ("Pirana" from "Pecel")

Horned figure eight (invar, puck)

Blocked eight. In the unloaded state, it is slightly offset towards the working hand, but if there was someone in the harness, it would become straight.
To descend, you need to take the free end (which goes down) in your hand, and, slightly pulling, begin to drop the coils from the horns. When you feel that you have begun to crawl down, then everything is going as it should.
For a hundred kg of cargo, it is better to leave one turn on the horns. If, however, a person weighs 60 kilos, then you can safely dump everything. Naturally, not forgetting about holding the end.

And a correctly blocked eight)
But so few people do.

As a rule, this is a metal product that repeats the figure "eight" in shape. Two rings are inextricably linked with each other, one is less than the other at least one and a half times. On the one hand, there are two protrusions in the form of horns, intended for blocking, by wrapping with a rope, up to 5 ogons (turns) are performed. You can try more, but it will not fit))). For additional blocking, the free end can be passed between the figure-eight and the stretched part of the rope.
It is used in mountaineering, promalp and organization of show-offs. It is used for descent, and in mountaineering / rock climbing, also for insurance
For mountaineering, aluminum is most often used, in industrial use steel is more often used.
In the first case - to reduce wearable weight, in the second - for durability. After 50-60 descents on a contaminated rope, the duralumin "eight" is produced by about a third, becoming completely unusable.
Steel, on the other hand, lives for two or three seasons, while the Moldavian-Central Asian brigades live up to ten

Rope threading options. On the left - a variant for lightweights. Right - for good people, which should be many.
I think that the relationship between the method of refueling and the weight of the descent body is noticeable. For ensigns, I suggest:
The rope passing through the carabiner and figure eight has fewer kinks, and, accordingly, creates less friction. Less friction - faster descent speed. Everything is simple.

With this option, the rope passes on the other side. There are no major changes involved. A matter of habit, nothing more. Personally, I prefer the right one.

There is also such a refueling option. Also, it doesn't change anything.

Despite the fact that the origin of the name is clear from the design itself, I once heard a version that the figure eight got its name due to the fact that with additional blocking, the turns on the horns intersect.

Classic figure eight (hornless)

It is used in mountaineering and rock climbing to organize the descent. It is not intended for hanging, because there is nothing to block the rope. Unless, one more carbine to fasten, and throw fires through it. well, or wind up ingenious knots.
During factory production, it is made of aluminum alloys.

On the left - the position for uncontrolled descent :)
On the right is the working position. The lower end, like all eights, must be controlled by hand during the descent.

Specialized eights.

There are a huge number of options designed for the most diverse specializations in the world. Unfortunately, I have at hand only Petselev's "Pirana" without a corresponding carbine, therefore, a detailed story will not work.

To be continued

A post about self-locking belay and descenders.

Last week there was a post about the Trango descender and I wanted to continue this topic by putting together an overview of all self-locking descenders/belay devices in existence today.
Depending on how the manufacturer positions them on the market, they are called either descenders or belay devices. I took the descriptions on the original sites, so I apologize for the liberties of the translation. Links to originals are included.
In the process of reading the article, a non-intrusive thought may arise that some triggers are similar to each other, I suggest leaving this on the conscience of the manufacturers.
Strong doubts arose about the Mammut Smart account, whether to turn it on or not, because. I didn’t work with it, didn’t hold it in my hands, but used only the description and video on the official website, so I’m not sure that I accurately understood the principle of its operation. If someone has something to add, please feel free to write!

Petzl

Self-locking descender RIG.
Link: http://petzl.ru/promalp/catalog/288/1736.html

The RIG is designed for professionals and experts in rope handling. The multifunctional handle allows you to release the rope and control the speed of descent by holding the free end of the rope with your hand, or to fix your position on the rope without additional blocking knots. The automatic handle return system minimizes the risk of falling in case of involuntary or erroneous actions on the part of the user. The special position of the handle for storage and carrying makes the device the most compact. A safety latch on the movable side plate helps prevent accidental release of the device and makes it easier to install the device on a rope and pass intermediate belay points. The swivel eccentric makes it easier to pick up the slack in the rope.
Rope diameter: working 10.5-11.5mm.
Weight: 380 g.

Self-locking descender I "D.
Link: http://petzl.ru/promalp/catalog/288/484.html

Designed for rope work: a safety latch on the swing plate will help prevent loss of the device. The multifunctional handle allows the user to:
- unlock the device and start descending, controlling the speed with the hand holding the free end of the rope;
- move freely along horizontal and slightly inclined railings;
- fix your position at any point along the way of descent.
The "anti-panic" mechanism is triggered as soon as the user presses the handle too hard: the rotary eccentric is automatically blocked and stops the descent. A special stop (error protection) reduces the risk of an accident if the user threads the rope incorrectly. The shape of the stopper is designed in such a way as to improve the glide of the rope during the ascent. The swivel eccentric allows you to simply pick up the slack in the rope.
Rope diameter: working 10-11.5mm.
Weight: 530 g.

Gri-Gri self-locking belay device.
Link: http://petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/56.html

Belay device with self-locking function for belaying the first or second in a bunch. The GRIGRI belay device helps to stop the climber from falling during a fall and keep him on the rope. Also, the GRIGRI belay device is perfect for descents on a single rope. Automatic braking system: in the event of a fall, the eccentric inside the belay device is activated and clamps the rope. Braking and control of the speed of descent is carried out by holding the free end of the rope in the hand. Unlocking the belay device with a handle.
Rope diameter: working 9.7-11mm.
Weight: 225 g.

Gri-Gri 2 self-locking belay device.
Link: http://petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/1797.html

The GRIGRI 2 auto-lock belay device is designed to make belaying easier. The GRIGRI 2 works equally well for both leader and top belay. The device can be used with all single dynamic ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Compact and ultra-light GRIGRI 2 long years will serve you faithfully in your climbing activities around the world. The new design of the GRIGRI 2 provides better control during the descent.
Rope diameter: working 8.9-11mm.
Weight: 185 g.

Stop self-locking descender.
Link: http://www.petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/61.html

One of the most popular caving descenders in the world. Full control of the speed of descent. Can be attached to the rope without snapping off the harness thanks to the spring clip. Automatic brake system triggered when the handle is released. The speed of descent is controlled by holding the free end of the rope with your hand. It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device, using a leg loop and a jumar. Replaceable cam and reel.

Weight: 326 g.

Edelrid

Self-locking belay device Eddy.
Link: http://www.edelrid.de/adventureparks/produkte/hardware/eddy.html

Reliable one-piece body. Rope bending in one plane: the device does not "twist" the rope on the descent. Automatic stop of Eddy in case of loss of control over the descent, i.e. when the handle is released. Good heat dissipation due to the greater massiveness of the clutch and housing. Can be used for long runs. Anti-panic function: if the user loads the handle too hard, the cam will jam the rope. Two options for working with the handle for descent: "push-up" and "pressing" the handle. An additional latch that secures Eddy to the rope after he is released from the harness. Possibility of manual unblocking of the loaded device (when used for insurance). When lifting loads, it allows the system to be reversible.
Rope diameter: working 9-11mm.
Weight: 360 g.

Trango

Chinch self-locking belay device
Link: http://www.trango.com/belay_rappel/Cinch

One of the lightest and most compact devices in its class. For insurance when moving with elements of climbing technique. Issuing a rope using both hands; stopping a fall by holding the free end of the rope. Rope bending in one plane: the device does not "twist" the rope on the descent. When lifting loads, it allows the system to be reversible. Can be used as a descender.
US Patent # 6,843,346. International Patents Pending.
Rope diameter: working 9.4-11mm.
Weight: 182 g.

Singin Rock

Self-locking descender Double Stop.
Link: http://www.singingrock.com/descender-double-stop?cat=2142

Descender with two locking positions and anti-panic system: automatically locks during the descent if you lose control of the rope and release your hands, and also prevents falling when reflex pressing the handle. For refueling, it is not necessary to click the device out of the carabiner.
It can be used both in industrial mountaineering and in rescue work.
Rope diameter: working 9-11mm.
Weight: 340 g.

Link: http://www.singingrock.com/indy?cat=2142

The new double auto-lock anti-panic descender is especially well suited for work at height and self-evacuation in an emergency.

Weight 469 gr.

KONG S.p.A.

Indy self-locking descender
Link: http://www.kong.it/doc405.htm

Rope diameter: rescue 11mm;
Rope diameter: working 10-13mm.
Weight 470 gr.

Indy Evo self-locking descender.
Link: http://www.kong.it/doc/KONG_INDY_EVO.pdf

The Anti-panic descender with double self-locking system is well suited for work at height and self-evacuation in an emergency. It locks when you let go (in case of illness or weakness), and when you press the stick you can slow your speed to a complete stop (the more you press, the more you brake).
Rope diameter: rescue 11mm;
Rope diameter: working 10-13mm.
Weight 450 gr.

FIXEhardwear

Self-locking belay device Sum
Link: http://www.fixehardware.com/sum-self-braking-belay-device.htm

Safe for all your ropes, ergonomic, dynamic, light and easy to use. Sum is a new generation of belay/rappelling devices designed to secure first and second on sport climbing routes or wall climbs. You can release the rope easily and quickly without even touching the lever.
- symmetry makes it suitable for use under the left hand
- involves dynamic braking, which gives good absorption for the first climber
- the rope is easy to place
- comes with a "safety position", which guarantees always the correct working position of the carabiner.
Rope diameter: 9.1-10.5mm;
Weight 260 gr.

Rock Empire

Self-locking descender Descender R.E.
Link: http://www.rockempire.ru/product/descender-re-340/

Self-locking rappelling device.
Diameter: 8 - 11 mm
Weight: 325 g

mammoth

Self-locking belay device Smart.
Link: http://www.mammut.ch/de/productDetail/221000670_v_0044/Smart.html

The Smart Belay Device has been specifically designed to meet the needs of the growing group of indoor and sport climbers. It dynamically slows down the climber in the event of a fall and blocks even with a slight effort of the insurer. In situations of fear of the insurer, the principle of operation corresponds to reflex movements human body. Suitable for all HMS carabiners and simple ropes.
Rope diameter: for Smart 8.9-10.5mm.
for Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5mm.
Weight 125 gr.

Alvo Titanium

Self-locking belay device Ya-Ya.
Link: no.

Automatic descender and belay device. The device is designed for upper and lower semi-automatic belay using a rope. Made from titanium and duralumin. Installation on a rope without unfastening from the harness. Automatic braking system (anti-panic). The ability to control the speed of descent.

Weight 180 gr.

Orion Alp

Link: http://www.orion-alp.ru/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=15&category_id=13&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

The trigger device "Stop-paratrooper" is designed for long controlled descents on a single rope. For long descents on a rope with control over the speed of descent. Can be attached to the rope without snapping off the harness thanks to the spring clip. The automatic brake system is activated when the handle is released. It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device, using a leg loop and a jumar. Used on single ropes.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking belay and descender device Promalp.
Link: http://www.orion-alp.ru/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=15&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Automatic self-locking belay and rappel device. It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device. When climbing up, the effort when pulling the rope is significantly lower than in similar devices. Used for single rope.
Weight: 700 g.

Vento

Self-locking trigger device Stopor-Desant.
Link: http://vento.ru/sport/catalog/40/230/

Self-locking device for moving down vertically fixed ropes with a diameter. Ideal for long descents, providing a quick stop when needed. Suitable for use in speleological expeditions. Due to the bending of the rope in only one plane, the device practically does not “twist” the rope. The automatic brake system is activated when the handle is released. The speed of descent is controlled by pulling the free end of the rope. The device is easily installed or removed from the rope without disconnecting from the gazebo. It is possible to rise up without changing the position of the device, using a jumar and a stirrup.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 340 g.

Self-locking anti-panic descender.
Link: http://vento.ru/sport/catalog/40/229/

Self-locking descender for single rope. Ideal for descents of unprepared people, as it eliminates the possibility of a breakdown in case of panic. The dual automatic brake system is activated both when the handle is fully released and when you try to grab the device. Control over the speed of descent is carried out by pressing the handle. Due to the bend in only one plane, the device practically does not “twist” the rope. The spring clip makes it easy to attach the descender to the rope without unhooking the carabiner. The maximum length of the descent is 100 m
Rope diameter: working 9-13mm.
Weight: 385 g.

Krok

Self-locking trigger device Desanter Grisha.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-grisha

Semi-automatic (self-stopping) device (auto-blocker) for descending on a single rope. It is used in industrial mountaineering for work on inclined or vertical railings, if frequent fixation (hanging) on them is necessary. In combination with another ascender, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported area. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. Adjustment of the descent speed is carried out both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the handle of the eccentric cam.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking trigger device Stopor-Desant.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-stopor-desanter-stalnoy-new-2

Semi-automatic (self-stopping) device (auto-blocker) for descending on a single rope. It is used in industrial climbing for work on inclined or vertical railings, if frequent fixation (hanging) on them is necessary. In combination with another ascender, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported area. The upper limit roller is in the upper left corner, which reduces the friction of the rope when using the Paratrooper Stopper to climb. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. Adjustment of the descent speed is carried out both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the handle of the eccentric cam. The free end of the rope can only be given out along the groove of the brake roller.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking trigger device Desanter-Antipanik.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-desanter-stalnoy-antipanik

Auto-blocker, or semi-automatic self-stopping device for descending on a single rope. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. Equipped with an "anti-panic" system, which allows to avoid an uncontrolled fall of the descender with his panic pressure on the handle of the descender. Designed for rappelling by untrained users. For example, when evacuating from high-rise buildings in case of fire, or by beginners in vertical amusement parks, when studying tourism and speleology, mountaineering and rock climbing. It is used in industrial climbing for work on inclined or vertical railings, if frequent fixation (hanging) on them is necessary. In combination with another ascender, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported area. Adjustment of the descent speed is carried out both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the handle of the eccentric cam.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 525 g.

Self-locking belay and descent device Snail.
http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/ulitka

Universal multifunctional fall protection device. When performing high-altitude work by industrial mountaineering, it can be used as:
semi-automatic self-locking device for descent on a single rope;
the second clamp for climbing the rope "self-pulling";
self-belay device when moving along vertical or inclined rope railings;
belay device for carrying out movements with a "lower" insurance;
a safety device for "receiving" the lower one;
as a clamp for tensioning railings and crossings.
Rope diameter: working 8-12mm.
Weight: 340 g.

Self-locking descender Promalp Fedya.
Link.

The figure eight is usually the first descender that climbers master, it is simple as an ax and reliable as a crowbar. In addition, the figure eight can be used both for insurance and as a ring, in general, which is enough for imagination. Let's talk about her.

Varieties

Now there are a huge number of eights of different functionality on the market, some of these descenders are no longer similar to the "8".

All eights can be divided into two groups, with and without horns. The horned figure eight is convenient where you need to hang and free both hands, the hornless ones are simply lighter and are considered more athletic.

Modern versions of this descender also offer different ways to thread rope into them for different speed descent and for show-offs.

There is a variety of eights with a rectangular large hole, this is necessary to eliminate the twist of the rope during the descent. It was because of the strong twist that eights were banned for use by cavers during the descent.

There is a variety called "Nine". It has a more advanced locking method, but it is not clear how to safely use it during the descent. After all, for this you need to loosen the free end of the rope going to the hand. How?? Only if you pull yourself up with one hand on a rope that goes up. If you know how to safely block it, write in the comments. But, in addition to the new blocking scheme, this “nine” also has classic horns, although they are short, but you can use them. I think it is well suited for promalp, where long hangs are needed.

There is a figure eight from Petzl with a special overlay to take it with your hands when it is very hot. This is strange and incomprehensible. Let me explain, when descending, the figure eight heats up so much that it can burn your hand .. But for some reason the manufacturer didn’t think about the rope, but if it melts, then at best you will hang on the insurance, and at worst, I think it’s clear .. Personally I control the heating during the descent, and if the figure eight for the hand is hot, then I reduce the pace a little.

There is also a figure eight called "Petal", this is an interesting variety. It is very compact and has one horn and notches at the top to block the rope.

Application

When it comes to descending, there are several ways to thread the rope into a figure eight.

First way- through the neck of the figure eight, without snapping the rope into the carabiner. With this method, the friction of the rope is higher, and hence the speed of descent is lower. It is also easier to hold the free end of the rope. The downside is that for such a rope filling, you need to snap off the figure eight from the carabiner.

Second way- through a carabiner and a larger hole of the figure eight, with this method the highest speed of descent and the smallest twist of the rope are achieved.

There is another way, but you should never use it. Look at the photo below. Once again, do not use this method, I am talking about it only so that you know that it exists and that it cannot be used. This is life threatening, you can just lose the rope and continue almost free flight.

Other methods require non-standard figure-eight configurations, and they are not particularly needed.

The best way to descend is the second one, it is the fastest, there is no risk of losing the figure eight and rope twist is minimal.

figure eight horns

Separately, it is worth mentioning the use of the horns of the figure eight. They come from two sides (such a figure eight is called "Invar") and from one side. Needed to block the rope in order to hang and free both hands. Many simply wind the free end of the rope around the horns, but this is also not safe. That's right - after winding, additionally throw the free end through the chassis, look at the photo.

Double horns can be used for blocking when descending on a double rope and for zigzag descending.

Descent in a zigzag is when two ropes, 1-2 meters apart from each other, are simultaneously passed through a figure-eight with double horns. When descending, one rope is blocked by the horn, and the other is released a little, then the ropes are changed. This method of descent can be useful for promalp.

Alternative ways to use the figure eight

In addition to using the figure eight for its intended purpose, it also has other possibilities. For example, a figure eight can be used instead of a ring. If carabiners are snapped into it from both sides, then in some cases it can replace the quickdraw. Paired with a jumar, the figure eight can also be used to lift. However, for lifting, it is better to replace it with some kind of grasping knot. It is the figure eight, due to the absence of moving and shock-sensitive parts on it, that is best attached to a rope instead of a load for throwing onto a branch or somewhere else. And of course, the figure eight is used to insure a partner, because if he falls, it will be enough just to hold the rope.