Major families of freshwater fish. Classification of commercial fish

Any building starts with a foundation. But first you need to choose its design. And for this, in turn, you need to know what foundations are, how they differ from each other and how to make them.

The foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse - which is better

First, let's figure out why a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed at all. The question is really debatable, because the total mass of the frame and skin of the structure rarely exceeds 150-200 kg and is unlikely to sink under its own weight in the summer. But in winter, when a large amount of snow falls, this may well happen. And yet, if we are not talking about impressive buildings comparable in size and weight to a good cottage, the risk of the greenhouse sinking under its weight is not a factor that determines the need for a foundation.

This factor is the protection of plants from sudden changes in temperature. Night frosts in August-September are not uncommon, and their consequences for crops in greenhouses without a foundation can be very sad. Cold air entering through the gaps between the frame and the ground can lead to the death of some plants. In addition, on their condition in the best way the sharp cooling of the upper layers of soil in the greenhouse will also affect if there is no barrier between them (layers) and the open ground. The foundation will be a good barrier to frost.

Important! Continuing the theme of protecting crops from the cold, it is worth saying that for greenhouses designed to work in winter, the presence of a foundation is mandatory. Otherwise, the efficiency of the heating system will be extremely low, and the heating costs will be monstrous for your wallet.

It is impossible not to mention that the presence of even the simplest foundation in a polycarbonate greenhouse will significantly reduce the risk of weeds, bears and other pests.

Although protection is required not only for vegetables and flowers grown in a greenhouse, but also for the structure itself. If a metal or wooden frame is simply installed on bare ground, then over time, excess moisture will contribute to corrosion or rotting of the structure. And this will directly reduce the life of the greenhouse and force you to spend money on repairs or rebuilding in a few years.

And the last, but probably the most important reason why a polycarbonate greenhouse should have a foundation is the windage of the building. This means that with sufficiently strong gusts of wind, the structure will be blown off the spot. And then the greenhouse can simply “travel” around your site, breaking bushes and collapsing itself. Or it can “fly” to the neighbor’s site and damage something there, which is unlikely to please both him and you.

Foundation selection criteria

The factors influencing the choice of the type of foundation for a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate include:

stationarity of the building;
expected service life;
dimensions;
seasonality of use;
construction time;
budget;
soil freezing depth and soil type;
aesthetics.

Stationarity. If the greenhouse is moved to a new location every season, then it is simply not practical to build an expensive and complex monolithic foundation. In this case, it is better to give preference to a structure that can either be easily dismantled and moved along with the greenhouse, or re-equipped quickly and cheaply.

Estimated service life. With proper construction, a polycarbonate greenhouse can serve for 8-10 years. Next, you will need to replace the entire skin and some damaged frame elements. And if you assume that the building will “work out” all the time allotted to it and, after repair, will continue to perform its functions, then the foundation for it must be durable. Accordingly, if the greenhouse is designed to be used for two or three seasons, then the opposite is true.

Dimensions. Everything is simple here - the greater the width, length and height of the building, the more mass. And so that the frame of the greenhouse of an impressive area does not sink under its own weight, it needs a good foundation.

Seasonality of use. If it is intended to use the greenhouse not only during the summer season, but also late autumn or in winter, the foundation should lie deep enough and protect the soil inside from freezing.

Construction timeline. It may take a couple of days to arrange the simplest foundation. And for monolithic options - a few weeks. Because the faster you want to start growing plants, the simpler the foundation design you need.

Budget. If the construction is not stingy, then it makes sense to think about building a concrete foundation with a brick base. And vice versa, if there are few funds allocated, then the creation of complex structures for a polycarbonate greenhouse is impractical.

Depth of soil freezing and soil type. If you are building a greenhouse with a high base or, these factors should be considered when arranging the foundation. Neglecting them is fraught with damage to the building during swelling of the soil in the spring.

Aesthetics- the last, but not least, factor influencing the choice of the type of foundation for the greenhouse. Of course, a building based on metal pipes or timber will look less attractive than a structure with a brick plinth, concrete pavement and gutter.

For a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate, the following types of foundation can be used:

from a bar;
tape concrete;
tape with a plinth;
tape block;
columnar or pile foundation;
monolithic slab.

The size of the greenhouse is chosen based on the area of the site, the budget for the construction and the goals that the owner of the plot sets for himself. All greenhouses, except for domed ones, have the shape of an elongated rectangle. Read more.

The most common type of foundation for is a wooden beam structure. Such a design has the following advantages.

Low cost and terms of arrangement - it is impossible to create something faster and at a lower price.
Minimum used parts and tools.
Working with wood is relatively easy.
No need for overly tight dimensional control.
After arranging the foundation, you can immediately begin to assemble the greenhouse.
Ease of dismantling the foundation, its repair or transfer. The latter is especially true for those summer residents who constantly transfer the greenhouse from depleted soil to a new location on the site.

But with all these advantages, you should be aware that the foundation based on timber is not the most durable - depending on the type of wood used and the presence of a protective coating, the service life is from 5 to 10 years. In addition, it is not possible to protect the soil from freezing in this way.

To build a foundation from a bar, you will need the following materials and tools:

timber with a section of 100x50, 100x100 or 150x150 mm;
corners with self-tapping screws or dowels for fasteners;
impregnation-antiseptic and brush;
sand;
rope and pegs;
roulette;
ruler for controlling angles;
level;
pencil or marker;
electric jigsaw or saw;
shovel.

Important! Choose a bar from a larch that grows in Siberia. Its wood is highly durable and resistant to moisture and decay. When buying, make sure that the geometry of the timber is in order, and that it does not have a large number of knots or other defects.

Step 1. Clear the area of debris, tall grass and rocks.

Step 2 Level the area.

Step 3 With the help of pegs and a stretched rope, mark the outer and inner edges of the foundation.

Step 4 Dig a trench along the height and depth of the timber.

Step 5 Align the walls of the trench, fill the bottom with a layer of sand or gravel (25% of its depth).

Step 6 Tamp down the layer.

Step 7 Perform measurements and mark the timber along the length, taking into account the method of fastening (on the corners or “half a tree”). Then cut with an electric jigsaw or saw.

Step 8 Treat the material with an antiseptic and let it dry.

Step 9 Assemble the timber into a rectangular box without joints, check the length and diagonals with a tape measure.

Step 10 Connect the structural elements to each other. If dowels are used for this, make cuts in the beam and drill holes for fasteners.

Step 11 Lay the box of timber in the trench. Please note that the mass of the structure can be from 150 kilograms or more, so do the work with several assistants.

Step 12 Fill the gap between the beam and the walls of the trench with sand. On top of the foundation, you can lay waterproofing from roofing felt or other coating with the same characteristics.

After completing all twelve steps, you can proceed with the installation of the greenhouse frame on the foundation.

Advice! If you are planning to build a greenhouse high altitude and square, then the foundation for it should be stronger. Therefore, instead of one beam, it is more reasonable to use two, as in the image below.

Video - An example of assembling a supporting structure from a bar

Strip foundation with plinth

To build a solid greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate for a long time, it makes sense to equip a strip foundation made of concrete. Given the relatively small mass of the building, the structure can be shallow, that is, not reach the freezing boundary of the soil. By adding a brick base to the concrete "tape", you will improve the appearance of the foundation and its thermal insulation properties.

The disadvantages of such a design include the complexity of the work and the construction time - from the completion of pouring concrete to the start of work directly above the greenhouse, it should take from two weeks to one month. Due to this circumstance, the first growing season in such a greenhouse is somewhat “cut down”.

Advice! To equip a polycarbonate greenhouse in which plants can be grown in winter, the depth of the foundation should be 20-40 cm more than for a building designed for use only in the summer season.

The strip foundation requires the creation of concrete with a brand (in terms of compressive strength) of at least M200. This indicator determines the compressive strength of the mixture and its ability to resist loads. The composition of concrete (depending on the brand) is shown in the table below.

Table. Mass proportions of cement, crushed stone and sand for concrete preparation.

Concrete grade for compressive strength	Cement M400, kg	Sand, kg	Crushed stone, kg	The volume of concrete obtained from 10 l of cement, l
M200	1	2,8	4,8	54
M250	1	2,1	3,9	43
M300	1	1,9	3,7	41
M400	1	1,2	2,7	31

Advice! The amount of water needed to prepare the mixture can be found in the instructions printed on the bags of cement. On average, one liter of dense cement requires one and a half liters of water.

Step 1. Remove stones, branches and debris from the greenhouse area.

Step 2 Using a tape measure, pegs and rope, mark out the future trench for the foundation.

Step 3 Dig a trench under the foundation with a bayonet shovel. Depth - from 20 to 50 cm, depending on the mass of the future greenhouse, and width - 25-30 cm.

Step 4 Align the walls of the trench and tamp its bottom. In the latter case, it is advisable to use a manual or automatic rammer, which can be rented from companies that own special equipment.

Step 5 Fill the bottom of the trench with sand or gravel and tamp it down. The layer thickness should be 25-30% of the trench depth.

Step 6 On the sides of the trench, mount the formwork from boards or plywood. The formwork must necessarily rest on pegs driven into the ground, otherwise the concrete can “push apart” the lower edge and the foundation in section will become not rectangular, but trapezoidal. Installation of additional screeds from above is desirable.

Step 7 Prepare concrete mix. From the point of view of labor and time costs, it is better to use a concrete mixer rented from a special equipment company.

Step 8 Pour concrete to half the height of the formwork. With a shovel or trowel, try to level it.

Step 9 Lay reinforcement on the concrete mixture in the corners and along the length of the strip foundation. Fasten the individual parts together by welding or wire. If there is a risk that the reinforcement elements will “drown” in concrete or move, then use supports called “crackers” or factory-made retainers.

Step 10 On top of the reinforcement, pour the rest of the concrete up to the formwork boundary. Control horizontality with tensioned threads and a level.

Step 11 At a certain distance, insert fasteners under the anchor bolts into the concrete - this is necessary to fix the greenhouse frame on the foundation. Consider installation locations carefully. If it is planned to build a basement, anchor bolts should be located at the joints of the bricks with each other.

Advice! In addition to anchor bolts, the greenhouse frame can be fixed to the foundation using profiled pipes embedded in concrete, as in the image below.

Step 12 Over the next 3-5 days, add water to the concrete so that due to the difference in humidity between the inner and outer layers, defects and cracks do not occur in the foundation. In rainy weather, do not forget to cover the tape with polyethylene.

Step 13 After finishing the “gravy”, leave the concrete to dry for 2-3 weeks, depending on the width and depth of the foundation. In dry and hot weather, this period can be reduced by 1.5 times.

Step 14 After the drying period, remove the formwork.

Step 15 Start building the basement. It is advisable to use red brick for it, since its other types or brands of blocks are too susceptible to moisture, to which the base will be constantly exposed. Masonry spend in half or in a whole brick.

Step 16 Lay a layer of roofing material or other similar material on top of the brick. If you decide not to equip the basement, then the waterproofing is placed directly on the concrete.

There is a kind of strip foundation, where instead of concrete, a brick or ready-made concrete blocks. It differs from the usual design in ease of installation and the ability to start building a greenhouse just a couple of days after completion of work on the foundation. At the same time, the depth of the bricks and their strength characteristics are inferior to concrete grade M300 or M400.

pile foundation

The construction of any, even the lightest building on soft soils prone to heaving is a difficult task. Uneven changes in ground level that occur in such areas every season can damage the greenhouse. The solution to this problem is the arrangement of the foundation on piles.

Piles can vary in material (steel, reinforced concrete, wood) and installation method (driving, screwing, laying or pouring into drilled wells). Consider the two most popular ways of arranging a point foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse - on screw and concrete piles.

The main advantage of the first type of piles is the ease of installation. The durability of steel screw structures is comparable to the service life of a frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse. Perform the installation process step by step as follows.

Step 1. Mark the site and places for screwing piles. They should be located at the corners of the greenhouse and along its walls with an interval of 1-2 m, depending on the mass of the entire structure.

Step 2 Dig holes at the pile installation points with a depth of 20 to 50 cm and a diameter 3-4 times larger than that of the piles. This can be done quickly and efficiently with a drill.

Step 3 Install the first pile and start screwing it into the ground. To do this, you can use both manual devices and special equipment. The screwing depth should be 1.5-2 m - it is necessary to go below the soil freezing limit and get to its harder layers that are not subject to swelling.

Step 4 Repeat the previous step with the rest of the piles.

Step 5 Align the piles in height. The easiest way to do this is with a grinder. As a result, the piles should protrude 10-15 cm above the ground.

Step 6 Lay a grillage on top of the piles, to which, in turn, the frame of the greenhouse will be attached. The most popular option is from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm, use long self-tapping screws as fasteners. Other examples of grillages can be seen in the image below.

Advice! Between the pile head and the grillage, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Reinforced concrete piles, unlike screw piles, are not screwed into the ground, but are poured into pre-dug holes. They are used in cases where, due to heaving of soils, the arrangement of a shallow strip foundation is risky. Also, such reinforced concrete piles are called bored.

Step 1. Mark the points where the piles will be located.

Step 2 Using a manual or automatic drill, drill holes with a depth of 1.5-2 m.

Step 3 Install the formwork in the well. It can be an asbestos pipe or roofing material.

Step 4 At the bottom of the well, pour layers of sand and gravel, then, if possible, tamp.

Foundation from the inside

Step 5 Inside the formwork, lay a pre-welded or wire-twisted reinforcement structure.

Step 6 Then pour concrete grade M200 or higher into the formwork. Perform the process in separate layers, each of which is given time for the initial setting. Usually this period is several days. After that, give the entire mass of concrete time to fully set and harden.

Step 7 Remove the formwork, align the piles in height and install the grillage.

Important! When thinking about choosing a pile foundation, one drawback should always be taken into account - such a design does not provide good thermal insulation and protection of plants in the greenhouse from drafts and pests, and the soil from freezing. Give preference to piles only if it is impossible to equip a different type of foundation on your site.

Column Foundation

Another type of foundation, resembling a pile foundation in its design, is a columnar foundation. It is cheaper and simpler than the previous options, but, given the small mass of the greenhouse, it is also able to perform its tasks well.

Step 1. Mark out 40x40 cm squares at the corners of the future greenhouse.

Step 2 In these squares, dig rectangular holes 30-50 cm deep.

Step 3 Align the walls of the pit, tamp the bottom.

Step 4 Fill the bottom with a layer of sand 15 cm thick.

Step 5 On top of it, create a column of masonry or ready-made concrete blocks. As a result, its height should be 10-20 cm above the ground.

Important! If possible, do not use those types of bricks and blocks that are prone to absorbing large amounts of moisture.

Step 6 Install a grillage made of timber on brick pillars, and on it, in turn, a polycarbonate greenhouse frame.

Monolithic slab foundation

Interested in a design that can provide stability even on soft soils and at the same time protect the greenhouse from drafts, pests and hypothermia? Have you decided to build a very large building suitable for growing vegetables on an industrial scale at any time of the year? If so, then in such a case, a monolithic concrete slab as a foundation is the best choice. This is the most expensive, but at the same time the most reliable and effective option. The design of a monolithic concrete slab has no fundamental differences from a shallow strip foundation, you can see it in the image below.

Now consider the stages of creating such a foundation.

Step 1. Mark out using pegs and string. Special attention it is worth paying attention to the control of the diagonals and the perpendicularity of the sides.

Step 2 Dig a pit at least 50 cm deep.

Step 3 Backfill with layers of sand and gravel. Their total thickness should be 25-30% of the depth of the pit. Tamp them down and, if necessary, cover with geotextile.

Step 4 Install formwork around the perimeter of the pit. Fill the space between it and the ground with gravel.

Step 5 Install fittings and drain pipe.

Step 6 Pour concrete up to the edge of the formwork. This stage is very important and requires a professional approach - it is necessary to ensure a perfectly even screed. Enter anchor bolts or other fasteners for the frame of the greenhouse.

Step 7 Wet the concrete for a week.

Step 9 Remove the formwork, fill the gap between the slab and the surrounding ground with crushed stone.

Summing up

So, what type of foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is better? It all depends on what you expect from him. Do you need a cheap and simple structure that can be built in a couple of days and immediately begin to install a greenhouse? Choose a foundation made of timber or on pillars of bricks. Do you want to build a permanent greenhouse, designed to work in winter and have an attractive appearance? Then you should choose a strip foundation with a red brick base.

Are the soils on the construction site far from the best, or should the building be located on a slope? In this case, pay attention to concrete or screw piles.

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Interest in polycarbonate greenhouses has been increasing lately, thanks to the undeniable positive qualities polycarbonate sheets: during seasonal use, accumulating solar heat, such a polycarbonate greenhouse does not need additional heating; easy to install, reliable in operation, provides opportunities for greenhouse cultivation of trellis vegetable crops, for example, and high-yielding hybrid tomatoes.

Attracts gardeners and gardeners, first of all, the opportunity to get a durable and efficient greenhouse for growing both seedlings and crops of full greenhouse cultivation. The metal parts of the construction of such a polycarbonate greenhouse can be purchased at specialized stores and garden markets, and assembled on the site. How to correctly assemble and fix a polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground without errors - you will learn in this our material.

Installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse

For a polycarbonate greenhouse designed for seasonal use, there is no need to create a foundation, which makes it possible to significantly save time and money, speeds up the installation of a greenhouse with your own hands up to two or three days in a quiet mode. But most importantly, at the end of the period of its seasonal operation, the entire polycarbonate greenhouse can be disassembled and stored to eliminate the need for winter snow removal from the roof, as well as the negative impact of low negative temperatures on its coatings, thereby extending the shelf life of your greenhouse.

For the strength and ability of a polycarbonate greenhouse to withstand strong winds, it must be fixed using T-shaped fasteners made of wood or metal. It is such fasteners that will retain the mobile capabilities of the greenhouse. If you connect a wooden beam for weighting, then this is already the foundation.

It is important to install such a greenhouse during the growing season, when you can move freely on the site, that is, at the end or beginning of the summer season. In order for polycarbonate to retain its plasticity, the atmospheric temperature must be at least + 10 ° C.

The best place for a greenhouse

The site must be flat, without a slope.
From all sides, it should be illuminated by the sun so that the greenhouse is at least three meters away from shading objects. It is important that even the trees are at the same distance from it and that even their roots do not compete with greenhouse plants for moisture and nutrients. The proximity of buildings is dangerous due to the occurrence of unwanted drafts.
Correctly position the greenhouse in length from east to west, so that the most capacious side in terms of area is located on the south side, which will warm it up with sunlight in the best way.

Greenhouse soil requirements

The site has been selected - it is necessary to test the quality of the soil, for which dig a hole around the perimeter of 70X70 centimeters, 1.2 meters deep. A handful of soil is taken from the bottom of this hole in order to roll the ball. If this worked out, then a lot of clay, if not - an excess of sand. It is sand that is best suited because of its high drainage abilities, which exclude moisture retention and rotting of the roots of greenhouse plants. The soil of high clay density will have to be replaced in order to improve its drainage.

For this purpose, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least 70 centimeters, fill it first with a 40-cm layer of river sand, and the remaining 30 centimeters with a layer of fertile soil for the growth of greenhouse plants. It is also important in the case of close occurrence of groundwater to carry out drainage grooves to remove excess moisture.

Foundation options / fixing the greenhouse to the ground

Everything is ready for the installation of the greenhouse: the site has been selected, the drainage capacity of the soil has been studied, the foundation pit has been dug and competently filled, the frame elements have been purchased or made by hand, seasonal time has been taken into account - it remains to proceed and assemble everything correctly.

Start by marking out the selected area for the greenhouse with wooden pegs with twine stretched between them. It is necessary to remove the sod, level the bumpiness and check the horizontalness of the site using a building spirit level. Height differences of more than 5 centimeters are not allowed. It is especially important to comply with this requirement in a half-meter zone around the perimeter of the greenhouse, and the rest of the space can be trimmed later.

Please note that you can attach the greenhouse to the ground in various ways, it all depends on which foundation you have chosen. For example, the foundation of a greenhouse can be in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete strip or a brick belt.

The foundation can also be iron or reinforced concrete piles with a grillage. Or maybe these are ordinary iron pipes and a grillage made of wooden beams 100x100 mm. The answer to the question of how to fix a polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground optimally depends on the choice of foundation.

Installation instructions for a polycarbonate greenhouse

In order not to be mistaken with the definition of the outer edge of the trench, you should measure 30 centimeters from the marked line and draw a line along the ground with a suitable object. A trench 30 centimeters wide and deep, corresponding to the length of the legs of the greenhouse being built, is dug along this line. The lower trim of the frame should rise 10 centimeters above the ground surface. If you still choose to install the greenhouse on a wooden beam, then all dimensions of the trench should be linked to its volumetric data. It is imperative to pre-measure the pre-packed bottom of the trench on its horizontal position in order to exclude a possible skew of the frame.

Already during the design and installation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to put a barrier to the most aggressive weeds with creeping roots, for example, couch grass or cherry shoots. As a protection against them, it is proposed to lay out the outer walls of the trench with a protective solid material (roofing material, slate, and the like), capable of coping with their aggression during the first three years. After the guaranteed period has passed, either the place of the greenhouse should be changed, or the outer barrier of the trench should be redone.

Experienced craftsmen for such work will immediately stock up a screwdriver and wrench. The kit of the purchased greenhouse certainly contains all the fasteners provided for working scheme her assembly. Anyone who is able to weld the necessary elements of the frame himself according to known drawings has probably already completed the drawing, calculated everything, bought a set of fasteners and tools.

If you choose to mount the greenhouse on a wooden beam, you need to start with bitumen treatment of all structural parts placed in or in contact with the ground in order to prevent corrosion or damage by gnawing pests, and let them dry. Polycarbonate greenhouse frame profiles should be fixed with steel corners to the timber. Place a protective layer (roofing material) not only along the outer edge of the trench, but also under the beam itself.

The assembly of the frame, as a rule, begins with the ends. It is to the end arcs that reinforcing strips, window and door frames are attached. Next, the Te-shaped legs are fastened with bottom strapping. In the trench, the harness with supports is installed so that it is 10 centimeters above the ground. At this and at all further stages of the correct fixing of the polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground, it is important to check the horizontalness of the work performed, correcting the inaccuracy, and only after that proceed to further assembly.

Subsequently, the remaining frame arcs are attached to the strapping and polycarbonate is distributed and installed over them with a light-protective film along outside, and you can remove it after installation or right before it, in order to avoid the strengthening of the adhesive under the influence of ultraviolet rays. Polycarbonate should also be mounted from the ends, having previously removed the window and door frames. It is more rational to fasten a rectangular sheet as a whole without cutting out in shape, in order to cut it with a hacksaw already fixed, bypassing the frame contour on the outside, then cut holes for vents and doors. Close the previously removed frames and mount them in their proper place directly with the installed polycarbonate.

It is better to lay the sheets on the rest of the frame without overlap and across, and arrange the joints with a connecting special profile, which should be attached in several places to each arc. But another move is also possible: to span the entire greenhouse with long narrow strips of aluminum and fix them with screws with the required density.

At the final stage, the ground should be laid around the perimeter 5 centimeters above the base, which will become a natural obstacle for insects. Although for a greenhouse without a foundation, it would be useful to make additional strapping from the timber. A bar treated with bitumen or drying oil will become reliable protection from invading pests. In addition, such a weighted stroke from a bar will add wind resistance to a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Should I dismantle a polycarbonate greenhouse for the winter?

If a polycarbonate greenhouse is left assembled for the winter, then it needs to be constantly cleared of snow in order to avoid an increased load on the polycarbonate sheets. The doors of such a winter greenhouse must be secured in the open position. With all the measures of respect for polycarbonate, it is the best material for building a greenhouse without a foundation, because it turns out to be quite stable and reliable for long-term operation.

On the other hand, if the design of the greenhouse is well calculated and a strong frame is used, then even a thick snow cap will not be a problem for your greenhouse, and the snow itself will protect the polycarbonate from frost.

Added to this is another important advantage mobile greenhouse made of polycarbonate: they made a mistake with the choice of the site for its installation this season - this is easy to fix in the next one by transferring the entire structure to the best place. The main thing is to design and fix the polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground correctly and reliably.

The purchase of a protected ground structure or its independent construction is one of the most important events for a summer resident. There are special hopes for it. By growing a large crop of vegetables, you can not only ensure your food security, but significantly replenish the budget. However, no less important is the correct installation of the greenhouse on the plot. In order to do everything correctly, it is necessary to clarify for yourself several very important points that affect the quality and quantity of the crop.

How to choose a place?

The choice of the place where the purchased greenhouse will be installed is taken lightly by many. And this is the first mistake, due to which you can lose a significant part of the crop. Excessive soil moisture, lack of sunlight, difficulties in laying communications will not have the best effect on the growth and development of cultivated crops. To prevent this from happening, you should adhere to the following rules:

Rule 1. Find a level area;
Rule 2. Avoid the proximity of groundwater;
Rule 3. Do not install greenhouses and greenhouses in shady places;
Rule 4. Choose places for your structure that are protected from drafts;
Rule 5. Position the structure so that communications can be carried out to it (lighting, heating, watering).

IMPORTANT! Before you install a greenhouse or greenhouse on your backyard, explore your hundred square meters. Mark for yourself the following criteria: the slope of the site, the composition of the soil and the location of groundwater. Plant nutrition will depend on them.

We select a flat area

For protected ground structures, relatively flat areas of the terrain are chosen. On them it is easiest to organize the correct and uniform watering of cultivated plants. The presence of a slight slope on the soil contributes to the constant accumulation of moisture at the bottom of the greenhouse and its absence at the top. The root system of some plants will turn sour, while others, on the contrary, will feel a lack of water.

In addition, the frame of the greenhouse installed at an angle loses its functional significance. As a result of the distortion of all its elements, the structure loses its bearing capacity. The uneven distribution of snow load in winter can play a cruel joke on the summer resident. The result may be the destruction of the frame.

If the site has a slope, then before installing the greenhouse structure, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work to level the base. There are two ways to go here:

Leveling the site itself under the greenhouse;
Building a light foundation.

Of the two options, the first is considered the most budgetary, since it does not require special material costs. However, the second, despite significant costs, is more preferable for several reasons:

Reliable fastening of the frame;
The possibility of arranging high beds with a fertile layer of soil.

We take into account the composition of the soil and the location of groundwater

In parallel with this, the composition of the soil and the occurrence of groundwater are being studied. Soil with a sandy surface is considered favorable for the growth of greenhouse plants. It will not allow moisture to accumulate at the root system of vegetable crops. His absence on the site is not at all a reason to refuse to install a greenhouse structure. With a little effort, the situation can be improved:

First you need to remove the fertile soil layer;
Then dig a small pit 60 ... 70 cm deep along the perimeter of the greenhouse;
But lay the bottom of the pit with rubble in a layer of 10 cm for drainage;
Pour sand over the rubble with a layer of 40 ... 50 cm;
Then return the fertile soil layer.

On the prepared place, you can safely put any greenhouse structure, not forgetting to build a foundation for it in advance.

Accounting for groundwater when installing a greenhouse on a garden plot is also not unimportant. Their close occurrence from the surface threatens the root system during precipitation. When the water rises, the roots of the plants will rot. Therefore, the optimal water level is deeper than 1.2 meters from the soil surface. If this condition is not feasible, then you should take care of the drainage system. To do this, along the foundation it is necessary to dig drainage trenches.

Accounting for the illumination of the place and the orientation of the greenhouse to the cardinal points

The next important criterion for the greenhouse is the illumination of the place where it will be installed. The sun carries a huge amount of energy needed for the growth of vegetables. The materials used for coating allow plants to receive the maximum amount of sunlight. However, the incorrect location of the greenhouse relative to the buildings and trees on the site can significantly reduce the illumination inside.

In order for the plants to receive maximum sunlight, it is unacceptable to place a greenhouse next to trees and buildings. If in summer the lack of light is not so noticeable, then in spring or autumn they will cast a shadow and prevent the penetration of solar energy into the structure. In addition, nearby trees in the autumn period will drop their foliage on the cover, which will also take away the lack of lighting from the plants during this period.

Many summer residents are also interested in the question of how to properly install a greenhouse relative to the cardinal points. After all, when growing vegetables, they need to ensure the maximum supply of solar energy. The luminary should evenly illuminate the plants in the morning, afternoon and evening hours. In order to fulfill this requirement, the soil protection structure can be installed in two directions:

From North to South;
From East to West.

For growing plants in structures with small dimensions, for example, 3x4 meters or 3x6 meters, orientation to the cardinal points does not have a special effect on their growth. Greenhouses can be installed in any of the indicated directions. But farm-class buildings, the size of which is not so small, are recommended to be oriented from East to West. The advantages of this location are the following important points:

Rapid warming up of the soil;
Rapid temperature equalization inside the structure;
Uniform illumination of plants

All this enables farmers to start growing light-loving vegetable crops a few weeks earlier. In addition, the orientation of the greenhouse from East to West allows you to increase the length of daylight hours and save on lighting and heating.

FOR REFERENCE! In general, the installation of a greenhouse in the direction of the sun has proven itself in Central Russia, its northern regions, as well as Belarus and Northern Ukraine. For more southern regions, it is advisable to orient greenhouses from North to South.

Choose a place without drafts

When installing and assembling greenhouse structures on a garden plot, do not forget about the prevailing winds. Drafts are bad. The constantly blown area where the protected ground structure is located will not contribute to the full heating of the air in it. A small breeze will remove heat from the surface of the greenhouse cover, thereby reducing its temperature inside by 5 ... 7 degrees. Such indiscretion in choosing a place will not allow the summer resident to save on heating.

There are several ways to isolate the greenhouse from the winds:

Install it near buildings on the leeward side;
Build a protective screen.

If you decide to use the existing buildings (house, outbuildings, fence, etc.) as a shelter from the winds, then try to place the greenhouse a little further away from them. A distance of 3 meters is enough to ensure that the structure is not obscured.

Using a screen protector may be preferable in some cases. You can make it like this:

From the side of the wind, along the long side of the greenhouse, supports are dug in every 2 meters.
Crossbars (beams) are fixed on the supports.
Sheets of metal profile are screwed on top of the prepared frame with self-tapping screws.

FACT! The installed screen allows not only to protect the greenhouse from drafts, but also to additionally heat it with reflected rays.

If it is decided to put a greenhouse in an open area where it is impossible to protect it from the winds, try to position it so that the wind direction falls on the frontal part of the structure. This will avoid significant heat loss.

Now you know how to install a greenhouse on a personal plot. Using the recommendations, you can avoid major mistakes, minimize losses and grow a good harvest.

The climate has become so unpredictable that having a greenhouse makes it much easier to grow seasonal vegetables. It is most practical to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the site. It is durable, retains heat well, passes the spectrum of sunlight necessary for the development of plants. It is better to buy a ready-made greenhouse, but you can save money on installation and install it yourself.

Location selection

For normal plant growth, natural sunlight is needed throughout the daylight hours. Therefore, the first requirement for a place is the absence of trees, structures and buildings that shade the site.

The correct orientation to the cardinal points improves the illumination: the pediments orient one to the south, the second to the north, the sides, respectively, to the west and east. In this case, the direction of the wind must be taken into account. If most often the wind blows from the north, then the axis of the greenhouse will need to be rotated. The wind must not blow in open doors greenhouses.

If you plan to operate the greenhouse in winter or in early spring, it is important to have near the point of connection to the electrical network, heating system and water supply. For summer greenhouses, only watering is important. Therefore, it is enough to have summer water pipes nearby. It has been proven that the yield of a greenhouse , installed incorrectly, 30% lower: due to poor lighting and improperly organized watering.

Another requirement for the place is a flat terrain. If there is no absolutely flat area, then you will have to spend time leveling the soil. Uniform watering is not possible on ridges with a large slope.

Site preparation for installation

If you are lucky - the soil is fertile, the plot is flat, then you can start marking work. But if the relief is uneven and groundwater or a layer of clay lie close, you will have to work hard.

Clay greatly reduces the permeability of the soil. Artificially created drainage can provide normal humidity. Crushed stone can be used as drainage material.

Perform soil preparation work in sequence:

First of all, mark the dimensions of the future greenhouse with pegs.
Remove the entire fertile layer from the entire perimeter and set aside for later use. The removed sod can be stored in the corner of the garden. Overheated, it will become an excellent substrate for planting.
Take out the clay to a depth of 40 cm.
Pour crushed stone (15 cm) and level.
Pour sand, its thickness should not be less than a layer of rubble. Tamp. You can moisten it so that the pillow fits snugly.
Leave fertile soil for subsequent refueling of the greenhouse.

The time that was spent on leveling the site will pay off during assembly. It is much easier and faster to assemble the frame on a flat area with a height difference of no more than 5 cm. To carry out the preparatory work, you need to have pegs, string, tape measure, bayonet and shovel shovels, a wheelbarrow or a stretcher.

Assembly steps

It makes no sense to make the frame yourself. A wide range of greenhouse frames made of profiles (aluminum, galvanized iron) under a polycarbonate coating is on sale. At low temperatures, polycarbonate becomes brittle. The installation of the greenhouse can be carried out both in early spring and in autumn, but the air temperature should not be less than +5 ° C.

For an affordable price, you can buy a greenhouse of any size: from a 2-meter structure to a 12-meter one. In addition to the frame, the kit usually comes with polycarbonate and fasteners. Well, if there is a bar in the set, it can be used to weight the bottom of the greenhouse.

Before starting work on the assembly of structural elements, you need to familiarize yourself with detailed instructions to install the product and prepare all the necessary tools. You need to have on hand:

screwdriver;
level;
hacksaw;
hammer;
wrench.

Using a bar for the bottom trim

Consider the option of installing a greenhouse without a foundation using a beam to weight the structure.

It will take more time to install, but the strength of the structure will be several orders of magnitude higher. This is especially true in those climatic conditions where strong winds often blow.

Before use, the beam must be treated with a special impregnation that protects against fungus. You can use bitumen in the old fashioned way, but it is better to use modern antiseptics. Impregnation will protect wood from woodworms, mold, moss, moisture:

Neomid-440;
Senezh;
Bioshield.

Any will do. It is better to apply in several layers, waiting for each to dry completely.

The lower harness - the beam can be slightly buried in the ground. Dig a small trench 30 cm wide along the perimeter of the greenhouse, the depth depends on the height of the timber. Lay roofing material on the sides, it will perform two functions:

waterproofing;
weed protection.

Frame assembly

Gardeners, who in practice have mastered the self-assembly of greenhouses, recommend first of all to assemble the end parts of the greenhouse. These are the most complex structural elements due to the presence of a doorway and ventilation vents in them.

The second stage of installation is laying the lower trim (beam) and fixing the lower part of the greenhouse frame on it with the help of self-tapping screws. The horizontality of the strapping is checked by a level. If necessary, the trench is deepened or poured. The timber should protrude at least 10 cm above the ground level. The strapping angles are firmly fixed with brackets, screws or nails.

The first step is to put the arcs, attaching them to the base of the frame. Next, strictly according to the level, horizontal connecting strips are attached. There is a base for the greenhouse. You need to attach the end parts to it and you can start covering the walls with polycarbonate.

We fix polycarbonate

The ends are sewn up first. Tear off the protective film from the polycarbonate. First, fix the sheet on the structure with self-tapping screws, and then cut it to size. Screw polycarbonate around the perimeter of the door and vents. Carefully cut through door and window openings. Screw fittings: latches, handles. The ends are ready.

It remains to do the most time-consuming part of the work - to lay the polycarbonate on the arcs. This is best done in calm weather, as the sheets have a large windage. With strong gusts of wind, polycarbonate can break. Sheets can be attached in two ways:

overlap;
using aluminum profile and strips.

The profile is attached to the arcs with self-tapping screws. Fixed with a certain step along the entire length. Polycarbonate is placed in the grooves of the profile. A special aluminum tape is laid on the joint and stretched to the required density.

Greenhouse arrangement

The frame is assembled and sewn up, the greenhouse can be prepared for the planting season. Dig, improve soil structure by adding humus, compost, peat in the required proportions. You can make ridges. When planning them, take into account that it is easier to care for three ridges: one in the middle, two on the sides. When arranging two ridges, they turn out to be wide and inconvenient to maintain.

Advantages

When installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground without a foundation, the gardener gets a number of advantages. The greenhouse is quickly mounted and dismantled. In areas with a lot of snow, it can be quickly dismantled for the winter so that in winter the roof does not break from the weight.

Such a greenhouse can be easily moved to another place. Especially if it's small. You can move if trees have grown, and a shadow has appeared that was not there before. Or they built a new country house nearby, installed a dense, shadow-giving fence. Having collected with my own hands a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground, the summer resident receives a mobile and reliable structure that will serve for many years.

How to avoid mistakes

We have already said how to choose a place and prepare it. We know the permissible air temperature during the installation of polycarbonate sheets. What other pitfalls can be encountered?

You need to avoid mistakes at the stage of acquiring a greenhouse. Savings on price can result in damage during operation.

You need to pay attention to the following points when buying:

First of all, on the thickness of the metal (at least 1.5 mm).
Next important point- profile section. Between 20cm*20cm and 40cm*20cm, choose the second option.
In areas with high rainfall, choose greenhouses with a reinforced frame.
If the greenhouse has a lower harness with ears, pins are included for fastening, then it is not completely driven into the ground. At least 20 cm of the pin should remain above the surface. If this is not done, then when the soil subsides, the ear will jump off the metal mount.
Give preference to greenhouses in which the base is attached to the ground using T-shaped mounts. They fix the frame more securely than pins.

Choice of polycarbonate

Do not make mistakes when choosing polycarbonate. What to pay attention to first of all? It is important to have UV - protection, which increases the strength of the sheets and transmits the desired spectrum of sunlight.

Be sure to look at the thickness of the sheets. The optimal values in millimeters are from 4 to 6. The strength of the sheet can be checked by pressing. Thin and poor-quality material loses its shape when pressed, crumples. When bending polycarbonate, creases should not appear.

There are a number of other points to consider:

On polycarbonate, drill holes of a larger diameter than in wood (metal). There will be no creases and waves.
Don't skimp on accessories. To seal the attachment points, use polycarbonate thermal washers or rubber gaskets.
Use special profiles for edging the end surface of polycarbonate.

Conclusion

Polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground - a good solution for long years. Self-assembly is a guarantee of quality. What matters is: the installation site, polycarbonate of the required thickness, a solid frame, high-quality fittings and installation, performed exactly according to the instructions.

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