Descent on a fixed rope. descenders
Injuries from falls from a height in Europe, the United States and China are in second place after traffic accidents. Knowledge of the basics of fall protection rules, the ability to use appropriate protective equipment allows in many cases to avoid falls or reduce the likelihood of injury.
(PPE) - equipment, equipment, equipment designed to prevent a worker from falling from a height or to safely stop his fall.
The main consumers of such PPE are construction organizations. But other enterprises also need these tools to carry out any high-altitude work:
- when inspecting wells, cisterns and other containers;
- for carrying out work by the method of industrial mountaineering, cleaning companies;
- during rescue operations;
- when servicing power lines, ventilation pipes and boiler rooms, TV and radio towers, towers, bridges, etc.
According to the Rules of labor protection when working at height (NPAOP 0.00-1.15-07), fall protection equipment includes:
- safety belts;
- helmets;
- safety ropes;
- safety climbing devices;
- catchers with a vertical rope;
- protective barriers, safety signs, etc.;
- climbing equipment used in conjunction with the aforementioned protective equipment.
Let's spend short review these means of protection.
1. Safety belts
Not the most important part of the high-altitude equipment - you can tie yourself with a piece of rope, but it makes life very easy. And in case of freezing during a breakdown for a period of more than 15 minutes - and preserving it, not allowing suffocation to occur.
The mounting belt (Fig. 1) and the upper system (Fig. 2) can only be used to secure a person who moves along the structures with his feet and, when falling, will not hang for a long time until his death from asphyxia. In addition, with a deep fall with a belt, the likelihood of a spinal fracture is high.
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| TORNADO, Ukraine | PETZL, France | SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic |
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| TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine | VENTO, Russia | PETZL, France |
As a safety system, you can only use a gazebo (Fig. 3), preferably complete with an upper system, so as not to break the spine during a fall.
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| FIRST ASCENT, Ukraine | PETZL, France | TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine | VENTO, Russia |
Or universal complete system(Fig. 4).
A completely justified element of protecting the "brains" from contact with metal structures when moving or falling on them, not to mention suddenly falling from above wrenches and other "punishments of the Lord."
It is better to use helmets reinforced with fiberglass, but the usual construction “soap dish” is also suitable for “lack of fish”.
3. Safety ropes (ropes)
Working at height requires two ropes. One for descent or ascent, the other is a safety harness. Or the second working and, concurrently, safety. If one is cut, killed or bitten, the second is your ticket to the world of the living.
When working on a bend over a sharp peak, always use a rope protector and steel is better - soft ones often cut along with the rope.
There are ropes dynamic And static, various diameters (from 8 to 12 mm).
dynamic rope- elongation of more than 7% with a suspended load of 80 kg.
In industrial mountaineering it is better not to use. It is difficult to work on it - like on an elastic band. The exception is when the specifics of the work require dynamic insurance.
static rope(elongation 3-5%) is used most often.
Super static rope(up to 2% elongation), made using Kevlar and steel, dangerous under any dynamic loads that often occur when working at height. Its superstrength does not contribute to safety. The money that needs to be spent on the purchase of such a rope can be spent on the rest of the set of equipment.
It makes no sense to use expensive ropes, which, according to the manufacturer's idea, have a long service life due to abrasion-resistant braid. On installation - yes, but on painting or sealing buildings, the rope still deteriorates from paint or sealant.
Remember:
- the declared breaking strength is not an indicator by which one can judge the reliability of the rope. The maximum load at which the rope breaks refers only to the original condition, not affected by adverse factors (attrition, moisture, paint contamination, etc.);
- the presence of knots reduces the strength of the rope up to 40% of the initial! I repeat, not by 40%, but up to 40%!
- rope aging is a gradual decrease in strength, regardless of whether the rope is used or still lies unopened in a store or warehouse. With a period of more than five years from the date of production, the rope cannot be used for work at height at all;
- with normal intensity of use and careful attention to it, any rope should be thrown away after at most four years, even if it looks well preserved.
More about ropes and their testing: P. Nedkov "ABC of single-rope technique".
4. Carabiners
The carabiner is an important and multifunctional tool for an industrial climber, which acts as a connecting link. Not only the success of high-altitude work, but also the life of the specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering directly depends on it.
Carabiners are a bracket that closes with a latch, which in turn is fixed from opening by a safety clutch.
The most common type of coupling is threaded. Locking is done with a twist-on clutch. However, it is possible to forget to screw the coupling.
Therefore, an automatic swivel clutch is sometimes preferred. The advantage of such carbines is in protection against forgetfulness or inexperience of the user.
A mandatory rule is that all carabiners that are used for belaying and securing must be with a clutch. In addition, the carabiner itself must be snapped in such a way that the rope, when moving upwards, does not unscrew the threaded sleeve or rotate the automatic clutch into the position of possible opening. By the way - the size of the lock opening is an equally important parameter of carbines.
Carabiners without a clutch are used only as a quick release or auxiliary.
Carabiners with a load capacity of at least 2200 kg (22 kN) in the longitudinal direction with a closed clutch can be used for belaying. This is sufficient for belaying, and more powerful carabiners are required where the permissible workloads can reach large values, for example when lifting loads.
The transverse breaking loads of carabiners are usually much less than the longitudinal ones, but not less than 7 kN. Therefore, it is very dangerous when the carabiner is in a device, such as a descender or safety device, on a break or across.
To avoid this, some manufacturers deliberately make a hole for a carabiner with a diameter of 12-14 mm, which is smaller than the diameter of most carabiner couplings of almost all brands: Black Diamond (USA); Climbing Technology (Italy); CAMP (Italy); Kong (Italy); Petzl (France); Mammut (Switzerland); Salewa (Germany); Simond (France); Singing Rock (Czech Republic); Vertical (Russia); Manaraga (Russia); Vento (Russia); Ring (Russia); Krok (Ukraine).
But we must remember that foreign analogues are more expensive than domestic PPE at times, or even dozens of times. This applies not only to carbines, but also to other equipment for high-altitude work.
Carabiners are made of steel or aluminum alloys. Dural carbines are much lighter in weight, however, their strength is also much lower. Therefore, when performing high-altitude work by industrial mountaineering, steel carabiners are mainly used, since they are much less susceptible to wear and withstand heavy loads.
According to the external form, there is a whole mass of varieties of carbines - trapezoidal, oval, triangular, pear-shaped, delta-shaped. Maximum load holds a trapezoid, and an oval and a pear are more convenient.
Oval. Due to the symmetry along the longitudinal axis, it has the least chance of getting into the device or at the snap-in point across the load or at a break.
Trapezoidal. These carabiners are the most tear-resistant. But they can not always be used with a certain type of belay device. It is not advisable to use with a sling and tape.
| KROK, Ukraine | RING, Russia | VENTO, Russia | PETZL, France |
Triangular. Came to us from history.
Pear or "HMS". The carabiner with the largest latch opening.
| VENTO, Russia | SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic | PETZL, France |
Mounting carabiners. They have the maximum ease of opening the safety lock, therefore they are convenient for working in canvas gloves.
| KROK, Ukraine | VENTO, Russia | PETZL, France | ||
Rapids. Carabiners that do not have a latch. Locking occurs due to the threaded coupling. Are applied to the organization of stationary safety links and for the auxiliary purposes (for example, fastening of designs).
D-Rings and Delta. They are used in cases where you need to use a carabiner with a sling or tape. For example, in systems. Working load - transverse.
| KONG, Italy | MAILLON RAPIDE, France | |||
Carabiners for pipes and beams. Safety carabiners for organizing movement along a pipe, beam or large diameter cable.
5. Descending devices (SU)
Are divided into manual And automatic.
IN handheld devices the coefficient of friction (i.e., the speed of descent and the braking force) depends on how the rope is tucked into the landing gear and with what effort the person pulls the rope below the descender.
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| Eight | Invar the bicorn | Pirana |
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| Lattice | Basket | Spider | Crab |
Automatic descenders have a mechanism that allows you to change the coefficient of friction (i.e., the speed of descent and the braking force) by acting on the device itself. To put it simply, to start the movement, you pull the handle or press on it, and adjust the speed of the descent. True, at the same time, control over the rope below the device is not canceled, because if it is lost, an avalanche-like increase in the speed of descent can begin, and the panic effect will not allow you to release the control stick and stop. For this, control systems with anti-panic are being developed, which, with panic pressure on the handle of the control system, stop the fall.
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| Stopper-Paratrooper | cinch | Grigri | Grisha |
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| I'D | Anti-panic | Paratrooper with anti-panic |
The most successful, in my opinion, are I'D PETZL and Paratroopers with KROK anti-panic.
6. Clamps
In general, the clamp is technical means, which moves freely along the rope, but when loaded, it automatically jams on it. Alas, as a rule, with a load in one direction. Attaches to a lanyard (up to 60cm long) which is in turn attached to your system.
Clamps are bending, jamming And mixed(kinking-jamming) types.
Clamp Body - open or closed.
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| Open | Closed |
bending type - almost never used.
Jamming- These are jumars and their varieties. The needle cam is pressed against the rope by a spring.
Bending-jamming type are clamps that use an articulated lever instead of a cam. Or the lever is the clamp body and the movable cam.
From two clamps and a stirrup consists of a rope climbing kit. If an automatic device is used as a descender, then it itself can play the role of one of the clamps.
But the use of clamps for self-insurance is a topic for a separate discussion. There are many opinions, but all agree on the main thing: when using clamps for self-belaying, it is necessary to minimize the jerk factor. In other words, do not allow the clamp to be below the location of the insured. Since the vast majority of clamps “remove” the sheath of modern ropes at a load of just over 400 kgf. The rest simply bite it or burn it when falling already with a factor of 1.
One of the few devices allowed for use as a means of self-insurance is the three-jaw Drop and its foreign counterpart, the Back-up clamp, as well as the ASAP PETZL clamp.
7. Loops
Rope, tape and cable.
Necessary for organizing rope fixing points and additional self-insurance points, as well as for auxiliary purposes. You can make loops from a piece of rope or a full-fledged sling (at least 22 kN to break).
Even easier - just buy ready-made loops. Perhaps the most commonly used lengths are 60 cm and 120 cm.
8. Seat
The seat is a matter of convenience and only, it should not be a subject of security in any way.
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| KROK, Ukraine | VENTO, Russia | PETZL, France | |
The bulk of the used seats can be divided into two conditional types - short seats and long ones.
The long seat has the straps fastened far enough on the board so as not to cut into the sides.
9. Lift kit
The simplest - carabiner with block(block roller) and preferably with a swivel to prevent twisting of the rope. This kit is enough to lift light loads.
If it is necessary to fix the lifted load, then a jumar or cam clamp can be added to this kit, and a fixing block roller, which the Americans call "houler", and we call a block roller clamp, can also be used.
But remember that, like jumars, all rollers with needle-type clamps “remove” the sheath of modern ropes at a load of just over 400 kgf.
The only exception is, perhaps, only "Block-stop" manufactured by KROK, Ukraine. original design does not damage the rope at forces up to 900 kg, and after increasing the load, it begins to pickle it.
You need to understand that the effort you make to lift the load through the block or houler is very much dependent on the efficiency of the block. Therefore, to ensure minimum efficiency, it is necessary to use high-quality blocks with bearings. The diameter of the roller also greatly affects the efficiency. The larger the diameter of the roller in the block, the greater the efficiency.
It is assembled from two or more blocks and has a great variety of varieties. For the promalp, the simplest ones are usually used, consisting of two single, double, triple blocks.
It is worth stopping at this, so as not to delve into the technology of the work.
Remember that any chain is only as strong as its weakest link!
As a rule, having come to one or another equipment center, we have before our eyes a very limited choice of equipment, both mountaineering and rock-climbing, for promalp or speleology. And all because only half of branded goods come to us from Europe, about which we have read a lot or are accustomed to using them in everyday life. In this review, it is proposed to consider the most rare and little-known brands of climbing equipment both in Russia, Ukraine and other countries of the former CIS.
Kong Futura Hand -Technical development by Matteo Rivadossi (Italy)
New hand rope clamp Futura Hand is a fresh word in size, weight and technical specifications. The weight of this device is 125g. Permissible load for these clamps - 470 kg. Recommended for ropes from 8 mm to 12.7 mm inclusive (but the most striking thing is that it stands “dead” on the Beale dynem 5.5 mm! Fantastic!). Futura Hand is perfect for both classic rail travel in the all-around tour, and for lovers of high-speed caving. In the kit you will find two interchangeable handles for different sizes hands
P.S. The crossed out 100Kg symbol on this clip is the standard CE designation indicating that this product is not certified for use as industrial and rescue equipment!
The Futura Hand blocking is a new concept that involves the application of less physical effort when rearranging the jumar along the rope. A special “cam clean” cam was installed with fundamentally new dirt removal channels (speleo), equipped with an anti-rollover system - i.e. does not require a top lock with a carabiner. The wedges of the denticles are cut at a sharper angle. Used with the Futura Foot (Petzl's counterpart to the footclip), it becomes an integral part of the Futura System, which uses the alternate step technique in the lift. The difference between the Kong jumar and the loopback ASCENSION is that in the Hand there is no distinction between left and right, that is, it does not matter to him which hand you work with him on the rope.
Unicender - created by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson
Unicender- a device for climbing a rope, designed and implemented by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson exclusively for arborists and arborists, but received its well-deserved approval and distribution also among cavers (similar to descender in work), and kyoning specialists in the form of a self-resetting trolls. Climbing a vertical rope is carried out by a person of medium physical training exclusively through own hands. No jumars, chain hoists, pedals, etc.!
In Russia and Ukraine, this device is completely absent ... which is a pity! In the promalp, he would undoubtedly find a use!
LINEBOSS manufacturer - Get International (USA)
The LINEBOSS™ is designed primarily to be used in the DdRT (Double Rope Technique) for arborists and arborists, but its versatility and combination properties may be required in other rope schools.
LINEBOSS easily handles both ascending the rope (ascender) by pulling the latter, and descending (descender) down after acting on the release handle, which unlocks the device. It can also be used as part of a work positioning system, or be taut as a line guide for support travel.
Due to the extremely small bend of the rope in the radius, there is practically no wear of the sheath, which other types of descenders cannot boast of.
Rope diameter: 11 mm - 13 mm
Critical load: - 50 Kn (5000 kg)
Working load range: - 230 - 500 kg
Weight: 425 grams
CMC RESCUE MPD, developed by CMC Rescue Equipment, USA
This is a universal device specially designed for a wide range of rescue operations, insurance and emergency descents in industrial conditions.
Can work like:
● Large load belay device (up to 280kg)
● High-performance roller with auto-lock function in the chain hoist of various multiplicity.
● Braking device for lowering the victim with one or two escorts. It has a switching system from a lowering system (lowering) to a lifting system (lifting).
● Can be used as a personal descender.
Other Features:
● SU is designed to work with rope 12.5 mm - 13.0 mm
● Weight - 1100g.
●1983 NFPA Certified
AB Descender by SAR (England)
AB Descender complies with two standards EN12841-C Descender and EN341-C Descenders Rescue. These two standards are different. Under the terms of EN12841-C, the descender can use Various types ropes, in accordance with SAR user instructions. EN341 is a standard for certain rescue/exit systems and any system certified to this standard must only be used with the type of rope with which it has been certified.
Over the past ten years, the EN12841 standard has been adapted to suit the requirements of the users.
Certain problems with other types of paratroopers, such as: sliding down the rope of the device when stopped, too much sensitivity of the control stick, at the slightest pinch of the handle, the anti-panic function would work, preventing the descent, the inability to easily stretch the rope up for some ascent, as well as the complicated design of some similar products. The designers of the AB Descender tried to overcome all these problems by adding simplicity to its design. IN A-B design The Descender has received some useful design changes from users of the old SCARAB. A small reel has been added to act as a rope safety and the main change is a larger folded lever in the handle when smoother control and less hand strain is required when descending.
IMPORTANT(!): All parts of the device experience friction during descent, which creates a high internal temperature that can damage the rope if a fall occurs or during a long, fast descent. Any of the above technical parameters are correct - when the product is new and operated in accordance with current standards.
The A-B Descender has been tested by a registered body in a simulated rescue using a 210 kg mass as required in standard 12841-C, clauses 4.4.5 and 4.4.9. It has also been tested with 100kg loaded onto the descender and 100k.
Toucan by Simond (France)
Does not twist the rope - an important quality for descenders. When falling, even with minimal friction against the wall, it eventually sits tightly on the rope, creating maximum friction, after which it practically stops the fall, but it is better not to check this yourself. It is very easy to belay with dynamic belay through Toucan. It weighs 100 grams, which is a little more than the Reverso, but a little less than a regular washer.
A small lever on the descender itself prevents the device from pinching the rope.
The lever itself allows you to gently give out the rope, or loosen the tension with the top and bottom belay. Designed for single and double ropes with a diameter of 7.5 to 11 mm.
Solo Aid SB2 by Rock Exotica (USA)
A device designed for lower belay, belay during solo ascents. The safe grasp of the rope when falling makes it possible to make the difficult process of solo climbing relatively reliable.
weight - 182 grams
breaking load - 22.7 KN
diam. ropes - 10-11 mm
CAMP Wing Traveling Pulley
Working load: 6 kN
Breaking load: 15 kN
Max. diameter: cable-12 mm, rope-13 mm
Pulley inner diameter: 26mm
Weight: 336g Original brake lock
Unique block layout helps keep clothing and hair out of the work area
wear resistant bearings
Stainless steel with increased thermal conductivity
Max Speed: 20 m/s Mammut Smart
Self-locking belay device for single rope 8.9-10.5 mm. Auto-lock for top and bottom belay (similar to Click-Up, only cheaper). Weight 82 g.
Salewa nine (Austria-Italy)
A variety of friction descenders - Salewa nine (Nine)
Diameter of working ropes - 9-11 mm
Kong DE JUMP manufacturer «KONG» Italy
Kong DE JUMP is a descender specially designed for canyoning. Equipped with a special mechanism for quick release of the device from the suspension system.
Weight: 328 gr.
Material: aluminum alloy / steel
Diameter of the rope used: 9 - 12 mm
Robot (KONG, Italy)
The trigger device is universal. The original development of the Kong, which is a hybrid of the classic figure-eight and lattice (retran) and combines the advantages of both descenders: it does not twist the rope and is light in weight. A large number of options for threading the rope.
Kong HYDROBOT (KONG, Italy)
A unique descender designed specifically for canyoning. Can be used with one or two ropes. Allows you to effortlessly change the braking speed under load. Due to the special design, the risk of accidental loss of the device, twisting of the rope and wear of the carabiner is eliminated. If an emergency lift is required, the Hydrobot can be used as a self-locking device.
Kong TRE (KONG, Italy)
This revolutionary belay device is as easy to use as a figure eight or puck, however, unlike them, TRE self-locks when jerking, allows you to work on both single and double ropes, it has become much easier to put in and out of the rope from the device. TRE Perfect for belaying climbing, canyoning, industrial mountaineering.
Kong ORTIS (KONG, Italy)
trigger control unit. Used with ropes and designed to lower a person from a height at a controlled speed (from 0.5 to 2 m/s).
Troll Pro ALLP Tech, manufactured by SAR (UK)
Weight: 585 grams
Breaking strength of the product: 20 KN
Working load: 270 kg
Slave/rope diameter: 10.5 mm - 12.7 mm
Can be used on semi-static and static ropes.
It has the ability to control the descent, both with a screw and with a handle, or in a combined way. Allows you to adjust the trigger with one hand.
The figure eight is usually the first descender that climbers master, it is simple as an ax and reliable as a crowbar. In addition, the figure eight can be used both for insurance and as a ring, in general, which is enough for imagination. Let's talk about her.
Varieties
Now there are a huge number of eights of different functionality on the market, some of these descenders are no longer similar to the "8".
All eights can be divided into two groups, with and without horns. The horned figure eight is convenient where you need to hang and free both hands, the hornless ones are simply lighter and are considered more athletic.
Modern versions of this descender also offer different ways to thread rope into them for different speed descent and for show-offs.
There is a variety of eights with a rectangular large hole, this is necessary to eliminate the twist of the rope during the descent. It was because of the strong twist that eights were banned for use by cavers during the descent.
There is a variety called "Nine". It has a more advanced locking method, but it is not clear how to safely use it during the descent. After all, for this you need to loosen the free end of the rope going to the hand. How?? Only if you pull yourself up with one hand on a rope that goes up. If you know how to safely block it, write in the comments. But, in addition to the new blocking scheme, this “nine” also has classic horns, although they are short, but you can use them. I think it is well suited for promalp, where long hangs are needed.
There is a figure eight from Petzl with a special overlay to take it with your hands when it is very hot. This is strange and incomprehensible. Let me explain, when descending, the figure eight heats up so much that it can burn your hand .. But for some reason the manufacturer didn’t think about the rope, but if it melts, then at best you will hang on the insurance, and at worst, I think it’s clear .. Personally I control the heating during the descent, and if the figure eight for the hand is hot, then I reduce the pace a little.
There is also a figure eight called "Petal", this is an interesting variety. It is very compact and has one horn and notches at the top to block the rope.
Application
When it comes to descending, there are several ways to thread the rope into a figure eight.
First way- through the neck of the figure eight, without snapping the rope into the carabiner. With this method, the friction of the rope is higher, and hence the speed of descent is lower. It is also easier to hold the free end of the rope. The downside is that for such a rope filling, you need to snap off the figure eight from the carabiner.
Second way- through a carabiner and a larger hole of the figure eight, with this method the highest speed of descent and the smallest twist of the rope are achieved.
There is another way, but you should never use it. Look at the photo below. Once again, do not use this method, I am talking about it only so that you know that it exists and that it cannot be used. This is life threatening, you can just lose the rope and continue almost free flight.
Other methods require non-standard figure-eight configurations, and they are not particularly needed.
The best way to descend is the second one, it is the fastest, there is no risk of losing the figure eight and rope twist is minimal.
figure eight horns
Separately, it is worth mentioning the use of the horns of the figure eight. They come from two sides (such a figure eight is called "Invar") and from one side. Needed to block the rope in order to hang and free both hands. Many simply wind the free end of the rope around the horns, but this is also not safe. That's right - after winding, additionally throw the free end through the chassis, look at the photo.
Double horns can be used for blocking when descending on a double rope and for zigzag descending.
Descent in a zigzag is when two ropes, 1-2 meters apart from each other, are simultaneously passed through a figure-eight with double horns. When descending, one rope is blocked by the horn, and the other is released a little, then the ropes are changed. This method of descent can be useful for promalp.
Alternative ways to use the figure eight
In addition to using the figure eight for its intended purpose, it also has other possibilities. For example, a figure eight can be used instead of a ring. If carabiners are snapped into it from both sides, then in some cases it can replace the quickdraw. Paired with a jumar, the figure eight can also be used to lift. However, for lifting, it is better to replace it with some kind of grasping knot. It is the figure eight, due to the absence of moving and shock-sensitive parts on it, that is best attached to a rope instead of a load for throwing onto a branch or somewhere else. And of course, the figure eight is used to insure a partner, because if he falls, it will be enough just to hold the rope.
Rope descent in industrial mountaineering uses many devices, but only a small part in this section of the catalog complies with the necessary regulations. Historically, industrial climbers have used abseil devices designed for sport mountaineering and caving applications. If you do not have a maintenance engineer above you, you may use any descender devices at your own risk. If you or your organization are required to comply with labor protection regulations, then you will have to look at the letters printed on the device and the passport or certificate attached to it.The standard developed for rope access techniques for descenders is called EN 341 Personal protective equipment against falls from a height. Devices for descent. In addition, many of the devices in this section have a different standard, EN12841 Rope Positioning Devices. Such devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.
For use as belay devices (partner insurance), devices regulated by the EN 15151 standard are used, which is this moment has no Russian counterpart.
Overview of descenders and belay devices
The main purpose of the descender is to fully control the descent on a fixed rope. Main function belay device- to carry out reliable insurance. controlled descent is achieved due to the adjustable friction force of the rope in the devices. In this regard, trigger devices are divided into:
- with backstop
- without backstop
Devices with backstop
All devices of this type are used only on a single rope.
Self-locking trigger device
For working with a rope with a diameter of 9 to 12 mm. Designed not only for descent, but also for insurance and ascent. Doesn't twist the rope. The brake is fixed automatically when the handle is released. Can be attached to the rope without snapping out of the harness thanks to the spring clip. The descent is controlled by holding the free end of the rope.
Pros:
2. Doesn't twist the rope
3. It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device.
4. The ability to hover at the required height without using additional devices.
Minuses:
2. Large lifting friction force.
3. Weight/dimensions
4. Not suitable for insurance
5. Not suitable for double rope work
Self-locking descender Anti-Panic
For working with a rope with a diameter of 9-13 mm. Equipped with anti-panic system
It completely eliminates the possibility of a fall in the event of a panic, so it is perfect for rescue work, emergency evacuation and loss of control of the rope. Double automatic brake system it works not only when the handle is completely released, but also when you try to grab the device. When you press the handle, you have full control over the descent. Doesn't twist rope. The maximum length of the descent - 100 m
Pros:
1. Full control of the speed of descent.
2. Doesn't twist the rope
3. If you lose control of the rope, the system is completely blocked and stops.
Minuses:
1. Does not work on icy, dirty, wet ropes.
2. Weight/dimensions
3. Not suitable for double rope work
Examples of devices with an anti-panic system
Trigger belay device GriGri (Gri Gri)
For working with a rope with a diameter of 8.9 to 11 mm. Thanks to the automatic locking, the device is excellent for organizing insurance. It is light weight and very compact. The most popular belay device in rock climbing. Very simple technique insurance: two hands are on the rope. Blocking: In the process of stopping the fall, the belayer holds the free end of the rope, the cam turns and grabs the rope, increasing the degree of blocking until the rope slippage is completely stopped. Smooth rope etching, full sense of control when descending and belaying. It is very convenient that the usage diagram of Gris Gris is engraved on the device itself.
Pros:
1. Doesn't twist the rope.
2. The ability to hover at the required height without using additional devices.
3. Very simple but reliable insurance.
Minuses:
1. Not suitable for double rope work
2. Requires care
3. Price
Self-locking descender I "D
Equipped with anti-panic system.
For working with a rope with a diameter of 10-11.5mm.
Thanks to the anti-panic mechanism, automatic blocking occurs and the descent stops. It is difficult to make a mistake if the rope is threaded incorrectly, since the device has a special stopper.
The handle has multiple functions: control the speed of the descent by holding the free end of the rope, lock/unlock the device, fix the position on the rope at any point during the descent.
Improved glide of the device along the rope due to the shape of the stopper. The rotary eccentric easily picks up the slack in the rope. Perfect for pulling the chain hoist and for a short climb up the rope.
Pros:
1. Automatic lock.
2. The ability to hover at the required height without using additional devices.
3. Protection against incorrect threading of the rope.
4. Excellent rope glide
Minuses:
1. Not suitable for double rope work
2. Requires care
3. Price
Trigger "Grid"
A very popular descender for promalp and cavers. Perfect for long vertical descents. Does not "twist" the rope due to its design. Allows you to hover at a height when descending without using your hands. There is an opinion that the use of a lattice wears out the rope much less than similar devices.
Pros:
1. Easy to use.
2. The device is very durable and reliable.
3. Minimum care required
4. Does not twist the rope.
5. It is comfortable to work on two ropes.
6. Possibility of hovering during descent
Minuses:
1. Large dimensions.
2. There is no possibility to use for insurance
Devices without a backstop include
Descender belay device eight
Eight - the most common device for organizing belay and descent in mountaineering, sports tourism. Usually, this is a solid metal part, in the form of the number "eight". There are UIAA requirements for the descender belay device, in which, according to the standard, the eight must withstand a load of 2500 kg
There are a large number of types of eights. There are with horns / mustaches / fangs for fixing the rope on these "growths". Such devices are used in mountaineering, mountain tourism. There are lightweight eights without unnecessary "growths". They are used, as a rule, in sports tourism.
Pros:
1. Simple but very durable device
2. Low price
3. Light Weight
Minuses:
1. The rope is twisted.
2. There is no possibility of fixing the rope if there are no horns.
3. When belaying, you need to be very careful.
Descender Basket
Can be used on both single and double rope. It is light weight but high strength. Convenient to use. Thanks to the design of the basket, you can easily and quickly thread the rope. But it should be borne in mind that with a very fast descent, the rope may heat up. Now on the market there is a wide selection of “basket” type descenders, which differ in price and functionality.
