The choice of cord for all occasions. Cord and paracord, safety cord and polyamide rope, nylon cord - how to distinguish and is it necessary? Universal and special cords
Ropes tourist - are the main technical means for insurance in camping trip and the movement of tourists on difficult terrain. They are made from synthetic strands that form the core of a complex structure, which is surrounded by a protective sheath, the so-called braided ropes, as in Figure 1.
For the insurance and movement of tourists on the route, ropes are used, called the main ones, having a diameter of 9-12 mm and a running weight of 50-90 g / m. The strength and quality of a new rope is tested on samples cut from a coil 150-500 m long. A rope with a diameter of 11-12 mm is subjected to 4 jerks of an ejected load weighing 80 kg. Rope with a diameter of 9-10 mm - 10 jerks with a load of 40 kg. In addition, the samples are brought to break under static load, as in Figure 2. The main technical data of the safety ropes are given in the table.
As a support during movement, as well as for hanging railings, it is better to use relatively rigid ropes that slightly elongate under load. For insurance, they are more elastic, capable of absorbing, due to a significant elongation (up to 30%), part of the jerk energy in the event of a tourist falling. The rope should glide well and tie into knots, be light and easy to use, retain its qualities during long-term operation.
When organizing insurance, one, so-called, single rope with a diameter of at least 11 mm is usually used. On difficult sections of the route, where a free fall stall is possible, a double rope is used - two ropes of the same diameter, usually 9-10 mm, or different, for example, 11 and 9 mm in diameter. When working with a double rope, ends of different colors are usually picked up.
The main rope of any diameter can be used for hanging the railing. When working with a rope, it must be taken into account that a significant decrease in the strength of the rope occurs in the knot. For example, in the stirrup knot by 40%, in the bowline and figure eight knots by 25%. The strength of the rope at the bend in the carabiner is reduced by 30%.
The usual length of one rope or, as they say, the end of a rope is 40 m - a conventional unit of length, called a "rope". For skiing, skiing, hiking and simple mountain trips, it is enough to have ends of a rope 25 - 30 meters long. In complex mountain and speleological routes, ropes with a length of 45 - 80 m or more are used.
The service life of a safety rope, depending on the intensity and operating conditions, is from 2 to 6 years. The safety of the rope must be checked before the trip, as well as after passing each section of the route where it could be damaged. A rope with significant damage to the sheath or withstanding a large dynamic load cannot be used for belaying, as well as as a support when moving without an additional safety rope.
If wet, dry the rope in the shade, if heavily soiled, wash in warm soapy water with thorough rinsing, store in a cool, dry place, closed from direct sunlight. To reduce wetting, the rope is impregnated with special compounds. The main ropes are carried coiled in single or double rings, as in Figure 3.
For chest harnesses and "arbors" in simple hikes, for self-insurance loops and loops attached to ledges and hooks when hanging railings, as well as together with the main rope during crossings and descents, as a rule, a braided nylon rope with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm is used, called auxiliary or cord. The cord withstands at least 500 kg of static load before breaking. For the same purpose, a woven nylon tape with a diameter of 20-30 mm of the same strength is used.
In situations where the use of a rope is not directly related to the safety of people, for example, securing backpacks and other items of equipment, lashing loads and packs, building a stretcher, etc., you can use any ropes, including twisted ones, as well as sisal ropes and ribbons , hemp, cotton with a tensile strength of 100-150 kg.
Rope (cable) braking is used to regulate, up to a stop, movement when lowering people or cargo, as well as for dynamic insurance.
To brake the ropes, relief protrusions are used, as in Figure 4. A carabiner hung on ledges or arts, fulcrum (hooks, bookmarks, ice column, eye, snow anchor, ice ax) directly or using a loop, as in Figures 5 and 6.
Braking devices without the possibility of blocking the rope - "Schicht's washer", "frog", "eight", as in Figure 7. Braking devices that block the ropes - "petal", Munter's yoke, "insects" of Kashevnik, "slingshot", "lattice" , "wheelchair", as in Figure 8.
Petzl and Serafimov automatically locking friction devices, as in Figure 9. Carbine brakes, as in Figure 10. Carabiners in combination with brake assemblies, as in Figure 11, as well as the tourist's body and arms.
Rope braking, in which only the body and hands take part, is used when belaying over the shoulder and lower back, as in Figure 4.6. Sometimes as an additional insurance when descending in the sports "Svan" way and the classic "rappel".
Rope braking through the body and hands in combination with braking devices is used for dynamic belay and various ways descent along the rope, as in Figure 12 and Figure 13. To brake the cable, as a rule, a block brake and friction devices are used: “tube”, “ladder”, Rogozhnikov’s “cassette”, as in Figure 14.
The degree of braking depends on the friction developed in the places where the rope (cable) is supported and in the braking devices, as well as on the effort of the tourist holding (“etching”) the unloaded free end of the rope. Blocking means ensuring the immobility of the rope or cable relative to the braking device or the braking device relative to the rope (cable) without applying the holding force of a person. Sometimes V.'s braking is carried out by means of shock-absorbers.
Number of impressions: 5716
Cords are auxiliary ropes. They are thinner than the main ropes we use for belaying. Their diameter is from 2 to 8 mm, strength from 100 kg to two tons, depending on the diameter. It is necessary to choose the diameters of the cords, based on each specific task.
Use of cords
Cords are used in a number of cases:
- As auxiliary segments for knitting grasping knots and organizing rescue work.
Like blocking when organizing stations.
For pulling off the main rope after the rappel.
Insure something valuable: a hammer or extractor to a gazebo, a tee block to a carabiner, etc.
Like shoe laces, tent braces and other "clothes lines" for the base camp.
The strength requirements for cords depend on the application. The highest demands are placed on cords for organizing insurance, but strength is also important in the rest.
Cords from supermarkets are not suitable for use in the mountains. Usually they are made of polypropylene, and this material loses significantly to polyamide, from which mountaineering cords are made - both in strength, and in wear resistance, and in UV resistance.
Varieties of cords
Cord, like a regular rope, consists of a core and braid - with the exception of the thinnest ones. Basically, cords are distinguished by their diameter and the materials from which they are made.
For "power" purposes (where the loads withstand by the cords are important), cords from 5 to 8 mm are used. Most high-strength cords are made from polyamide, both core and sheath. Sometimes there are exotic options, with special properties. Examples:
- Aramid (Kevlar) core, polyamide braid;
dyneema core, polyamide braid;
100% dyneema - both core and braid;
Rap Line cord from Edelrid;
cord with several braided Kevlar threads, for more effective work grasping knots;
cord with reflective braided thread;
Touch cord from Tendon.
All of these options are most often created to perform one specific task. Thus, dyneema or aramid materials in the core give an increase in strength for the same weight and smaller diameter. But unlike polyamide, they are superstatic, that is, they do not stretch at all. This is in some cases a plus, in others - rather a disadvantage.
Cords for organizing stations
When organizing a station, the strength of the cord for blocking should not be lower than 1 ton. Therefore, classic polyamide cords can only be used if their diameter is at least 7 mm.
Modern manufacturers, in addition to classic polyamide cords, make many other auxiliary ropes that are more cunning and interesting in design. They allow you to win both in the weight of the equipment and in ease of use.
The most common option is a cord with different material braids and cores. The core is made of high-strength material, such as Kevlar and Dyneema, and is protected from above by a wear-resistant polyamide casing. It turns out a very strong cord: with a diameter of 5-6 mm, it will hold about one and a half times more than a classic polyamide cord (in some cases, up to 1800 kg). As a result, the weight of the equipment is reduced and the range of its use is increased.
Due to their static nature, such cords lose much more strength in knots: up to 50%, while polyamide cords only up to 30%.
Cords for grasping knots
For grasping knots, the requirements are slightly different. How well the gripping knot on the rope will work depends primarily on the ratio of the diameters of the cord and the main rope. The optimal ratio is approximately 10:7, that is, for a main rope with a diameter of 10 mm, cords with a diameter of 7 mm will work well. For thinner ropes, thinner cords are suitable. For thicker ropes of 11-12 mm, which are often used in rescue work, you need to take a thicker cord - 8 mm in diameter, and sometimes thicker.
The quality of the gripping knot also depends on what material the braid is made of. The less slippery the material, the better the line will grip when it falls or moves along the railing. Therefore, there are options for cords with the addition of aramid and kevlar to the braid itself. For example, Edelrid's Rap Line braid contains aramid and Kevlar - this makes it non-slip, it is convenient to work with the rope when you hold it in your hands, and at the same time the gripping knots work well with minimal loads.
The Tendon line has a touch cord. It is distinguished by a special "shaggy" thread in the braid (which is felt to the touch, and therefore Touch) and softness for a better grip.
Ropes for pulling rappels
Not the most popular technique, somewhat a thing of the past with the advent of thin dynamic ropes. On this moment half and twin ropes with a diameter of 6.9-7.9 mm often win in terms of weight and comfort. However, for adepts of using a single main rope and a thin one for pulling, a thin, strong and extremely rigid cord is needed. Great option there will be a 4-7mm cord with a dyneema core and a polyamide or polyester braid.
Universal and special cords
A number of cords can be used for different tasks. For example, the same Rap Line cord from Edelrid can be called universal. Its core and braid construction are made using the same technologies as dynamic ropes. It turns out that this cord with a diameter of 6 mm passes a number of tests, according to which dynamic ropes of the Twin class are tested, and is, on the one hand, a thin dynamic rope, and on the other, a good efficient cord for auxiliary needs. This is a universal product that can be used for organizing stations, for rescue work, and in other conditions.
Some manufacturers find new solutions and get ropes with unique properties. For example, a cord with a reflective thread. Its characteristics are fully consistent with standard auxiliary ropes, but at the same time it has the additional option of visibility in the dark. It is convenient to work with him by the light of a flashlight - in difficult conditions this quality is often indispensable. By the way, guy lines for tents from such a cord with a diameter of 2-3 mm are the very thing.
And speleology solely to perform auxiliary functions - for knitting loops with grasping knots (for example, prusik, Bachmann knot, Austrian grasping knot), making climbing stairs, etc.
A nylon rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm is usually used, which, depending on the brand and year of production, have different strengths, from 230 kgf for a 4 mm rope to 1200 kgf for a 7 mm and 1550 kgf for an 8 mm rope (data from 1983) . Kevlar ropes are stronger, but they are more slippery and stiff and inconvenient for grasping knots. Ropes with a particularly slippery sheath (fluorine plastics, polyethylene, etc.) are also not used, even if they correspond to the standard in strength, as well as twisted ropes without a sheath.
- Cords with a thickness of 7-8 mm are used for knitting loops, improvised lower and upper harnesses and for other auxiliary purposes.
- Cords with a thickness of 5-7 mm are best suited for knitting self-tightening knots.
- Cords with a thickness of 3-6 mm are used for the manufacture of climbing ladders, tying various loads and tools to a flexible suspension system or a climbing platform.
Important: You need to know that the cord is not designed for dynamic jerk.
see also
Write a review on the article "Repcord"
Links
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
An excerpt characterizing Repshnur
After all that Napoleon had said to him, after these outbursts of anger, and after the last dry words:
“Je ne vous retiens plus, general, vous recevrez ma lettre”, Balashev was sure that Napoleon would not only not want to see him, but would try not to see him - the insulted ambassador and, most importantly, a witness to his obscene ardor. But, to his surprise, Balashev, through Duroc, received that day an invitation to the emperor's table.
At dinner were Bessières, Caulaincourt and Berthier. Napoleon met Balashev with a cheerful and affectionate air. Not only was there no expression of shyness in him or reproach to himself for his morning outburst, but, on the contrary, he tried to encourage Balashev. It was evident that for a long time already for Napoleon there was no possibility of error in his conviction, and that in his concept everything that he did was good, not because it converged with the idea of \u200b\u200bwhat is good and bad, but because he did This.
The emperor was very cheerful after his horseback ride through Vilna, in which crowds of people enthusiastically met and saw him off. In all the windows of the streets along which he passed, carpets, banners, his monograms were displayed, and Polish ladies, greeting him, waved their handkerchiefs at him.
At dinner, having seated Balashev next to him, he treated him not only affectionately, but treated him as if he considered Balashev among his courtiers, among those people who sympathized with his plans and should have rejoiced at his successes. Among other things, he spoke about Moscow and began to ask Balashev about the Russian capital, not only as an inquisitive traveler asks about a new place he intends to visit, but as if with the conviction that Balashev, as a Russian, should be flattered by this curiosity.
Knitted from rope Æ 5 - 8 mm. Cord breaking force Æ 6 mm is equal to 400 kg, but taking into account factors that reduce the strength of nylon equipment (§ 5.8), maximum load it is customary to consider 100 kg, for a double, respectively, 200 kg.
For self-insurance, in addition to the grasping knot, you can use the "Bahmann" knot ("Austrian" grasping) or the carabiner "Bachmann". All of the following is true in the general case for all three nodes.
The grasping knot is knitted on the main rope with a double cord or a ready-made "prusik" (a looped cord of a selected length with a double conductor at the end. After selecting the length, a figure-eight guide is knitted from the double cord. double cord must be equal in length to prevent stress on the single cord The knot must always be tight, a loose knot does not work well An eraser with a hole can be used to keep the knot tight.
The length of the gripper, used for self-insurance when descending the railing, is selected so that when hovering, the participant can reach the knot with his hand. When descending, the knot must be held with the thumb and forefinger, while the double cord should go between them on top of the hand. This increases the likelihood of tightening the knot when jerking. In no case should you clamp the knot in your fist!
When using the grip as a self-insurance when climbing free climbing, the length is selected in the same way. When moving across the terrain, the knot must not remain on the railing below the participant's knee, as this creates the danger of a strong jerk in the event of a fall. The knot should not relax during the movement.
To organize self-insurance when climbing along the railing, the length of the cord is determined by the length of the jumar - if the cord is shorter than the jumar, this will significantly complicate the climb, because. grasping will be tightened. If the jumar has a secure lanyard or is included in the lanyard of the system, a short cord can be used. The grasper is also knitted in front of the jumar, and the conductor is included with a carabiner in the jumar itself or in the mustache of the self-insurance in which it is fixed. In both cases, when the self-insurance is triggered (breakage or slippage of the jumar), the participant will not be able to reach the knot, which is a disadvantage of this technique and complicates the way out of an emergency. When climbing with a jumar, it is recommended to use a top belay.
The catcher is not used for self-insurance on the horizontal sections of the railing. It is forbidden to use a double cord as a lanyard. It is forbidden to use a grasping knot for static self-insurance.
For self-belaying on slopes with a steepness of more than 50 - 60 ° and when moving with a heavy backpack, it is recommended to use a rope Æ 8 mm or cam clamps. In systems of increased load (chain hoist) grasping and "bakhman" are knitted from a cord Æ 6 mm in 4 strands or cord Æ 8 mm in two strands.
At the moment, it is the most affordable means of self-insurance, but in terms of reliability and technical specifications significantly inferior to special clamps. For knitting a grasping knot, it is possible to use a special Kevlar cord that does not melt during sudden slippage.
Conventionally, cord, cord and paracord are a rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm made of synthetic materials, which has a core and an outer sheath. But depending on the materials used, which affect breaking loads, softness and other properties are called differently.
Cord
The cord has everyday household use. Made from inexpensive materials. For example, " " is made of polyester (core) and polypropylene (braid). It is inexpensive (up to 10 rubles per meter), but at the same time it has good breaking performance - 300 kgf. One of the most popular uses for 4mm Hostex cord is for banners.
Repsnur
The concept of "repsnur" is most often used in climbing circles.
Cord is a static rope with a diameter of 4-8 mm of round cross section with a protective sheath. It is used in mountaineering, rock climbing and speleology exclusively for auxiliary functions - for grasping knots (eg Prusik, Bachmann knot, Austrian grasping knot) and for auxiliary purposes.
A nylon rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm is usually used, which, depending on the brand and year of production, have different strengths, from 250 kgf for 4 mm rope to 1200 kgf for 7 mm and 1550 kgf for 8 mm rope. For example, the Tendon taper has a breaking load of 340kgf.
Cords with a thickness of 7-8 mm are used for knitting loops, improvised lower and upper harnesses and other auxiliary purposes.
Cords with a thickness of 5-7 mm are best suited for knitting self-tightening knots.
Cords with a thickness of 3-6 mm are used for the manufacture of climbing ladders, tying various loads and tools to a flexible suspension system or a climbing platform.
Important: You need to know that the cord is not designed for dynamic jerk.
Paracord
We got to the most interesting. If everything is clear about the cord / cord, then “paracord” in Russia is used in speech simply as a buzzword that is increasingly being heard. As practice has shown, 90% of customers asking us “Do you have paracord?” mean the usual cord of domestic production.
The name Paracord is short for Parachute Cord - parachute cord. The name first appeared during World War II, when the paratroopers of the US Army needed a light and durable cord for parachute cables.
Landing on the battlefields, the soldiers cut off the feet of their parachutes and used them in the future. So, gradually, the paracord was overgrown with a great variety of uses: it helped in the construction of shelters, repairs, and much more.
Over time, for lack of analogues, paracord became popular all over the world and today is used as a common multifunctional rope by both military and civilians.
It was even used by astronauts (as a multi-purpose tether during the STS-82 mission of the second flight of the Shuttle to repair the Hubble telescope)
WHAT IS PARACORD MADE FROM?
Paracord is a lightweight nylon cord with a core woven from multiple nylon strands. It can be divided into two parts: the "sheath" - the outer covering, consisting of a large number of intertwined fibers and the so-called "offal" - the inner cable, woven from several single cords, each of which in turn consists of many intertwined threads.
TYPES OF PARACORD:
Paracord is divided into 2 types: MILITARY AND CIVIL.
MILITARY paracord is called Mil-Spec Paracord, or MIL-C-5040 Type III (Military Specification) - a mil-spec that meets military specifications.
It is made by only a few companies in the US and is mostly used for government needs - for example, for equipping army units, law enforcement agencies, etc.
The production of military paracord is controlled by the US Department of Defense and is certified by the US Department of Defense Industrial Supply Center. All military paracord meets quality standards and undergoes regular laboratory testing and a series of field tests.
- CIVIL paracord is called civilian or commercial - civil or commercial.
As the popularity of paracord grew, so did the demand - many people wanted to have a similar "indestructible rope".
The US government, responding to the demand for paracord, allowed it to be released to civilians, creating the so-called "commercial" version.
It is produced by many companies around the world. Commercial paracord has a 550 lb (249+ kg) breaking strength and almost identical characteristics, just like military paracord, but has a rougher texture and a slightly larger diameter.
It is slightly thicker due to the fact that during its production the quality standards of the army sample are not always applied. In all other respects, the difference is almost minimal.
This is related to one feature of the marking. For the cord, the main indicator that is indicated in the name is the diameter (Cord 3mm, Cord 4mm, etc.) For paracord, the main indicator is strength, therefore Paracord 550 is indicated in the name, as a rule, it corresponds to a diameter of 4mm.
The range of applications of paracord in Everyday life extremely wide - it can be used to make lanyards for knives, bracelets, both decorative and intended for use as NAP (wearable emergency supply), watch straps, key rings, zippers, buttons, for braiding various objects (lighters , lanterns, knife handles, tools)
Nike used paracord in their Special Field Air Force
Paracord products can even serve as a self-defense weapon (for example, a monkey's fist).
The nylon sheath is often used alone without a core when thinner or less elastic cable is needed. The ends of the cable are almost always melted and crimped so that it does not unravel. The same application will be found for the core.
The core (in the US Army it is called "offal") can be removed when a thinner thread is needed, for example, for repairing clothes or as a fishing line for catching fish in case there is none in an emergency.
Unlike cord, paracord is softer, more elastic and pleasant to the touch. It is very easy to weave from it.
Summing up, we can say that paracord is not quite suitable for mountaineering and is expensive for a cord for household needs. But it is very relevant for survivalists and as a material for functional accessories. Being in nature, giving, hunting, fishing, etc. it's nice to know that in an emergency you have 5-10 meters of rope.
