Do-it-yourself air pump. Homemade pneumatic dart launcher Homemade powerful pneumatics

Hi all. Probably every child, teenager or adult man, dreamed of acquiring firearms, pneumatic, traumatic, etc. Unfortunately, firearms are prohibited; traumatic injuries require permission. The only option is pneumatics, but the prices for pneumatics are high. Although the principle of its action is very simple. Today I will show you how to make a simple air rifle. Well, it cannot be called a full-fledged pneumatic, it is an experimental model to show how pneumatic weapons work. I made this homemade product from unnecessary trash that I found in the barn. I do not bear any responsibility, only you are responsible for all your actions. Although this is a fart (let's call it that), you still need to be careful. Well, let's get started.

To make this homemade product, we need

1. Stainless steel pipe (I decided to make the rifle heavier, but you can choose pvc pipe or something different)
2. Faucet (you can also use a PVC faucet)
3. Adapter and found a device in the barn, I don’t know why. This device is made of two couplings and two adapters from the hose to the faucet. You can use something else.
4. Nut
5. Sealant

Step 1. Fasten the bottle to the adapter

At this stage, you need to fix the bottle cap on the adapter. You need to fasten it so that air does not flow anywhere. First, I made a gasket from the camera, put it on the adapter, on top of it another factory gasket (I found only one factory gasket, so I had to make another from the camera). We make a hole on the lid and put it on the adapter. We tighten the gasket and tighten the cover with a bolt. We make a hole in the bottle and glue the nickel with inner sides s, and to the top with a cleat gasket. The gasket should be pressed tightly against the nipple. Then we drive the adapter into the coupling with a hammer.

Step 2. Barrel

Now it remains to make the trunk. A stainless steel pipe was used for the barrel. I used another faucet with a tube welded on the end. This tube fit almost perfectly into the stainless steel tube. I applied sealant to the faucet tube and drove the tube into the pipe. The barrel is ready, now it remains to connect both parts (barrel and bottle) and fasten the faucet, as seen in the photo.

Step 3 Test

Can air produce a significant effect?

For example, we need to blow off a stack of books with air from our lungs ( by the way a wonderful item to bet with friends).

No matter how much you try, this task for a person (supermen and other superheroes does not count) is impossible. No matter how much we blow, the books will lie in place. But what if we cheat a little and put an ordinary balloon under a stack of books and blow air into it. You will notice that without the slightest effort our books will rise above the table. And we used all the same air from our lungs ( you can proudly emerge from the dispute as a winner).

The difference lies in the fact that in the second case, we locked our air in a limited space and did not allow it to spread in all directions. And when the air has nowhere to go, it starts to work like a spring.

Such a compressed state of air and gas is studied by pneumatics. Pneumatics(from Greek. breath, puff) - a branch of physics, dedicated to mechanisms and devices that use the difference in gas pressure for their work.

In other words, any pneumatic device uses compressed gas in its work.

Pneumatic mechanisms are found all around us. These are brakes in buses, trolleybuses and trucks, these are doors in the same buses (did you hear how compressed air hisses when opened ?!), these are jackhammers that make holes in the asphalt ...

…and of course pneumatic guns.

popular fun paint ball(Paintball), where they run around with guns and shoot paintballs at each other, I'm sure everyone knows. Who has not played, I advise!

So in this article we will tell and show how to make a real pneumatic gun with our own hands - a compressed air gun.

What is this gun capable of? We look:

Materials:

plastic bottle 1.5 l.;

bicycle nipple;

plumbing adapter with a tap (from ¾ inch to ½ inch), coupling (¾ inch), metal-plastic pipe segment 70 cm (½ inch diameter), sealing tape.

The last picture shows alternative parts (we did not have them at the beginning) that are also great for our case (adapter with a ½ to 3/4 tap and a ¾ female threaded coupling).

Equipment:

superglue, nail or screw with a wide head, scissors, burner, knife, pliers, gas wrench, file.

Step 1.

We cut the thread from the bottle with a knife. We cut off the rest with a file or sandpaper.

Step 2

With a screw with a wide head heated on the fire of an alcohol stove (or gas stove), we melt a hole in the bottom of the bottle.

Step 3

We cut off the nipple from the old bicycle tube and insert it into the hole in the bottom of the bottle from the inside. For this:

1. We thread the thread through the holes of the bottle through and through.
2. At the end of the thread we tie our nipple, and pull at the other end.
3. In this way, you can easily thread the nipple from the inside of the bottle.

Step 4

Glue the nipple to the bottle with superglue. The main thing is ---- to ensure 100% tightness of the gluing, otherwise we will not be able to pump the bottle up to sufficient pressure for us.

To improve gluing, you can pre-clean the hole in the bottom with a file from the outer and inner sides, get rid of burrs, glue a rubber washer cut from the same old bicycle chamber (both inside and out); you can use a sealant or hot melt adhesive; and you can combine it all.

Remember the tightness and rigidity of the structure so that our nipple does not come off when the pump is connected.

Step 5

We wind the sleeve on the neck of the bottle by ¾ inch. Because the neck of the bottle is plastic, it lends itself quite well to winding without pre-threading. We tighten the coupling until it stops in the outer rim of the neck. If necessary, use a gas key.

Step 6

We screw our crane into the second end of the coupling. We pre-seal the faucet threads with a plumbing sealing tape. (You can seal in any other way convenient for you).

Let me remind you once again that the tightness of the structure is very important for us.

Step 7

We wind a piece of metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ½ inch onto the tap thread. The thread may not be pre-cut, because. the plastic inside the pipe can easily be screwed tightly onto the tap thread itself.

We took a piece of pipe 70 cm in length.

Step 8

Our air gun is ready! We enjoy the fruits of our labor and prepare for trials.

See below for detailed video assembly instructions:

To test an airgun, we need:

1) a pump (preferably with a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the bottle),

2) projectiles (paintballs, fruits, vegetables, water, paper balls ... whatever).

Instructions for use:

1. We close the tap.
2. We pump air into the bottle up to 3-4 atmospheres. Be careful not to overfill the bottle. (At a pressure of 6 atmospheres, my bottle exploded.)
3. We charge the gun with our projectile through the muzzle.
4. We aim and shoot, abruptly opening the tap.

Attention! Perform all actions with compressed air under adult supervision!

Do not point at people or animals!

Pneumatics can become a dangerous weapon in the hands of people without a sense of proportion and responsibility for their actions.

Good luck!

Hello, man.
this summer vacation lasted two months, and all this time I was engaged in pneumatics.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  SELECTED TYPE OF PNEUMATICS

Firstly, it is worth mentioning the direction of my developments.
rate of fire, accuracy, reliability - I decided not to touch all these characteristics, but directed all my engineering power to achieve maximum power.
Pneumatics are of different types. I will not be lazy and will tell you in more detail.
well-known air breaks, or as they are scientifically called spring-piston pneumatics (PPP). when fired, the piston begins to move along the cylinder, building up pressure in it, which in turn begins to push the bullet out of the barrel. This type of pneumatics is very common due to the simplicity of its design. most of this type of air blowers are low-power, however, there are very strong representatives of spring-piston pneumatics (Hatsan 125).
the next type is PCP pneumatics (pi-si-pi). it has a built-in balloon, into which a lot of air is pumped. usually in factory "pisipishki" the pressure in the balloon is about 300 atmospheres. a full balloon is usually enough for many dozens of shots. once I found on the Internet a home-made PCP-pneumatics, made not by schoolchildren, I am adult uncles, whose hands grow from where they need to. in that air balloon, the balloon was again pumped up to 300 atm. and it was enough for 400 shots (!!!). this type of pneumatics has a high rate of fire, and if you turn to Wikipedia, it will be mentioned there that some airs of this type have an initial bullet speed of up to 450 m / s (this is a lot for pneumatics). but unfortunately I did not find a single PCP pneumatic on the Internet, in which the same indicator would exceed 350 m / s ...
the next type of pneumatics is gas cylinder. most often presented in the form of pneumatic pistols. the principle of operation of such pneumatics is very similar to the PCP, but instead of the usual compressed air, carbon dioxide contained in the can is used. usually one spray is enough for 50 shots, after which it is replaced with a new one. such pneumatics are not very different in power ... and anything else ... (a toy, as for me).
and the last type of pneumatics that I will talk about is compression pneumatics. in such airs there is a built-in pump, with which one pump is made, after which a shot is fired. to shoot again, you need to swing the pump again. there is also multi-compression pneumatics (MK). here you can already make a few strokes with a pump. but after each shot, you need to download again. power depends on the number of strokes. you can swing 1 time and knock down the jar with a shot, or you can swing 10 times and make a hole through the duck along: 0
this type of pneumatic has a very low rate of fire, but it has a huge potential for power. so I started making MK pneumatics. Let's move on to reviewing the first model.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 1.0 BALLON SIZE

Initially, I did not really understand that for one shot you need not so much air. main pressure. and the larger the cylinder, the more air and the longer it must be pumped to achieve the desired pressure. in this regard, my first model Turkey 1.0 was made from a can of a potato sprayer from pests. she was bulky. you couldn't hold it in your hands. although it looks powerful in appearance (well, it seems to me), but in fact, in order for this nonsense to spit something out of itself at least a meter, it was necessary to make 100+ strokes with the pump: 0 it took more than 2 minutes to charge. besides, this gun was not mobile.
in the photo is an air vent without a barrel. the wooden handle with the pin is the release valve. you hit the handle down, and a bird flies out of the muzzle.
this 1.0 model was far from my ideal.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.0

after unsuccessful tests, I decided to cardinally change everything. the Turkey 2.0 model was much more mobile, although it had to carry a pump attached to the hose. Here I decided to drastically reduce the volume of the balloon. in this model, it was approximately 180 ml and was made of aluminum pipe. the photo shows that a car nipple sticks out of the balloon. after testing, it was found that it was impossible to pump the balloon normally through the nipple, so I had to tear off the nipple and connect the pump directly. that is, the air was inseparable from the pump, which significantly reduced its mobility.
power ... yes, the power was on top. pierced 2 - 2.5 cm of wood with a nail, an iron cover with a drill. but would like more :)
trigger mechanism remains the same. I had to hit the handle from above, which is not very convenient. and if you shoot from a distance of more than 5 m, then it’s generally impossible to get anywhere (haha)
a shutter was also made for popping shells. free assistant helped me with the photos.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  CALIBER

my caliber was 9 mm. By the way, the caliber of most factory air vents is 4.5 mm. the large caliber somehow upset me, because more air was required to push out the large-caliber projectile, which means that you need to pump more with the pump. I told my friend about my problem. he successfully joked that if I reduce the barrel, then my air gun will then shoot with the barrels themselves. during that conversation, I thought it was absurd... I didn't know what was going to happen next.
I liked shooting drills the most. they have one very good plus. due to the fact that they have a helical geometry, they twist in flight, thereby becoming more stable in flight. during the experiments, the drill never crashed flat. if you take powerful factory pneumatics or even combat rifles, then the barrel is cut there. due to which the bullet passing through the barrel begins to rotate. significantly increases the range, accuracy, stability of the bullet in flight. I definitely can’t cut the barrel in my workshop: (this requires a special machine. But firing with drills slightly compensates for the lack of a chopped barrel due to the fact that the drill itself is, as it were, cut.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.1 AND 2.2

The next stage in the evolution of my pneumatics was an even greater reduction in the volume of the cylinder. in model 2.1 (photos of this model have not been preserved), its volume was approximately 100 ml. if in model 2.0 it was necessary to make 8 pump strokes (there is simply not enough strength), then in model 2.1 you need to do 6 pump strokes to the maximum. while the power is the same. and here there was a problem ... if I can’t already pump more with the pump ... that is, 6 strokes is the maximum: crisis, I thought that everything was lost, there was no more sense in this life, until one thought hit my head... according to Pascal's formula (or whatever it is): pressure is equal to force divided by area, we can conclude that the smaller the pump has a piston ( i.e. the cuff, i.e. the diameter of the cylinder) the easier it is to pump the pump. (I could paint everything better, but I won’t bother, whoever wants to, he will understand). in general, it dawned on me: you need to throw away the factory hand pump and make your own with a smaller cylinder diameter. which is what I actually did. after several unsuccessful attempts to make my own "overpressure" pump, I still got this :D
the pump was 90 cm long and could pump a little more than 15 atmospheres. Pavlentiy rejoices. development continues. the next model of my air 2.2 was already with a built-in pump and an even more reduced cylinder. now the volume of the canister was approximately equal to 50 ml.
I could do 5 strokes with the pump (I didn’t master it further), but this was enough to break through more than 3 cm of wood with the pump. a breakthrough was made. power increased, and reload time decreased (from 6 to 5 strokes). wow, comrades. photos of model 2.2. attached:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.3

if you look at the pictures of Turkey 2.2, you can see that the pump and cylinder are perpendicular to the barrel. this is very inconvenient and not beautiful ... fii ... it was necessary to somehow make the whole thing more compact. after a little thought, I decided to go to the store and buy 2 water corners there. these are probably the only 2 things I have bought. yes, yes, reader. all the air, except for these two corners, is collected from the trash that I found next to the house (well, or in the house). having bought these two nonsense, each for 70 rubles (140 rubles ... yes, I’ll go broke like that), I made the barrel parallel to the pump and spray can. like this. this is model 2.3.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.0

After experimenting with Turkey 2.3, I realized (it's strange why not right away) that I have to make a lot of effort to open the trigger valve, that is, to shoot. the trigger mechanism remained after all the same primitive: you hit the pin with your hand, which pushes the valve. something had to be done about it. after watching all sorts of videos on YouTube about homemade PCP air blasters, I noticed that they all have a striker (baffle. I don’t know what it’s called. pfft). in general, I decided to make a drummer.
there was a problem ... before I did without a bed, I did not need it. but if you make a drummer, then it must be fixed behind the release valve. that is, I had to make some kind of frame to place everything on it.
having climbed the mountain "Olympus of construction" and having come there to the master Ivan (my father), I asked him for ... a board. yes thicker. he gave me access to a bunch of boards, and after a bit of thinking, I decided to take an oak board (strong oak). take oak - it was my mistake. if I had taken a pine or a linden, then I would have made a bed in one day, but for 3 days I was busy with an oak board, gouging out of it something similar to a bed. after a gentle treatment, it began to look quite fit.
the striker has a lever that must be pulled to cock it. after that, it remains in a taut position. need to shoot outside thumb right hand push the lever up. it will slide off the step and from acceleration (under the action of the spring in it) will hit the valve. it is hard to cock (it means powerful), but if you make more than 4 strokes with the pump, then the drummer often does not overpower to open the valve. this is very bad, because, I'm afraid, I won't make a more powerful drummer. Introducing Turkey 3.0:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  FIELD TEST MODEL 3.0

I have done many tests with this model. Unfortunately, the photos were taken a little, since then I had not yet thought about the fact that they would be needed and that my airbox would still undergo big changes.
Let's move on to testing.
it is worth saying that, as a rule, my shells always have some kind of limiters: nails have hats that prevent them from entering the target further, drills have a thick layer of electrical tape at the end so that it fits in caliber. in this regard, the shells, although they had a large penetrating ability, did not always penetrate their targets. however, targets such as cans and coffee cans were sewn through on both sides and even two cans per shot.
I like to measure penetration on wood. model 3.0 hammered a nail 3 - 3.5 cm. excellent. I also had a hollow brick from the heater. shooting at him with a drill, I got a complete penetration of one side. this surprised me. to break through 1.5 - 2 cm of brick - I really like it. power is excellent. having shot all the cans and lost all the drills, I decided to make ultra-light traumatic bullets from potatoes, and later from beets. at first I wanted to shoot potatoes at people, but after testing on plywood, I realized that even potatoes can cause serious harm to a person. shooting potatoes at the plywood, I was stunned. a small piece of root crop pierced plywood: 0 while the projectile scattered into molecules (this is a figurative expression).
I also decided to play a little with plasticine, namely to shoot at it and look at the traces of hits. and now the pics:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.1 DIMENSIONS

it would seem that it is time to finish the project, everything is fine, the power is excellent, but I was not very satisfied with the size of my Turkey. the total length of the air was 148 cm. in addition, it had to be pumped. after the pump rod was extended, the length of the air increased by another 80 cm. That is, this nonsense was already under 2 meters. it was inconvenient to pump, pneuma was heavy. there is power, but I would like to see it in a more compact mode. I decided to take a desperate step: shorten the overall length of the air. first of all, it was necessary to shorten the pump, the length of which was 90 cm. then it turned out that my barrel of 9 mm caliber and 87 cm long was longer than the pump, so it became impossible to pump air. I was sorry to shorten the trunk. I will not find such a tube anywhere else (a handle from a mop). I decided to take the pipe from the curtain. I will have 5 meters of these pipes. the barrel was made 50 cm long. Accuracy at a long distance would naturally decrease, but since I didn’t have a sight and I aimed stupidly at the eye, along the barrel, there was plenty of accuracy with a 50 cm barrel. caliber has also been reduced. now it is 7.5 mm. and if the caliber is smaller, then the speed of the bullet will be greater. I also shortened the balloon a little. its volume became about 30-40 ml. after all the modifications, I assembled the 3.1 model and got a total length of 126 cm, that is, it became 30 cm shorter than the previous model. by completely redesigning the pump rod, namely by making it from an aluminum tube instead of an iron pin, I significantly reduced the weight of the air. now it has become lighter and more compact.
remember, I said about the joke about shooting guns? so, after some shots, the barrel simply flew out of the trigger tube .. if it weren’t for the handle on the barrel, it would fly out of the air completely. This is no longer funny: 0 I had to make a tighter shutter, which slightly reduced the convenience of closing it.
what about power? power ... it decreased: (decreased significantly: ((
now the board was pierced by a nail no more than 3 cm (within 2.5 - 3 cm). I got upset. but the work of shortening the pneuma had already been done and nothing could be returned back. I decided that such power is also quite decent.
as for the pump, now the maximum could be pumped 8 times (instead of 5). thus the rate of fire has dropped. I was not very upset, because the pump became smaller and more convenient, it was possible to compensate for the recharge time with a quick pump.

Paulentius (Bhaumi)  Hatsan 125

I will make a small lyrical digression.
The most powerful airgun I have seen on the Internet is the Turkish spring-piston Hatsan 125. According to the manufacturer, its muzzle velocity can reach 380 m/s... let's make a comparison.
bullet speed y:
Makarov pistol - 315 m / s
pistol TT - 420 m/s
AK-47 - 715 m/s
SVD - 830 s / m
Mosin rifles - 870 m / s
tank t-90 - 1700 m / s
the latest electromagnetic gun in Russia (railgun) - 5500 m / s
:D
someone may have noticed that Makarov has a much lower bullet speed than Hatsan. but the air gun has a bullet mass of 0.5 g, while Makarov has more than 6 g. Here lies the hidden energy of the firearm. although Hatsan has a high muzzle velocity, this airgun has a muzzle energy of only 33 J, while for the Makarov Pistol it is 300 J. 10 times more. but there is a big BUT: when hunting small game (duck, bunny) there is nothing better than pneumatics. Hatsan can go right through a duck, more than enough to take him down. in addition, the pneumatics have very little recoil and shot noise.
a few words about muzzle energy. according to the law, pneumatics cannot be more powerful than 25 J. Hatsan has 33 J .. the law is circumvented in this way: when buying a blower, there is a weakened spring, due to which the power drops to the permitted (25 J), and Hatsan comes with a reinforced spring. the buyer at home or with the help of a master changes a weakened spring to a reinforced one and receives 33 J. like this.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.2 FINAL DEVELOPMENT

Turkey version 3.0 turned out to be the most powerful. but due to its length and mass, it did not become the conclusion of this project. I decided to achieve increased power by improving the quality of some parts. I spent purely 1 day trying to make a good trigger valve that opens when needed, closes when needed, practically does not poison and does not break after 2-3 shots. development is secret, I did not take pictures. then I finalized the trigger itself, making it better and more convenient. there was a normal trigger. now it was not necessary to protrude the lever on the bump stop with your thumb. I also tried to better connect the pump with the spray can and with the trigger mechanism.
the bed was painted black. the look turned out pretty good. beauty :D

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  more photos:

Paulentius (Bhaumi)  and more:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  FIELD TESTS OF THE FINAL VERSION

the development of my air gun is finished. this is the final version. which means it's time to conduct penetration tests, as well as to measure the muzzle velocity of the bullet.
go.
shells are made from a nail (150 mm). bullet weight 6 g.
the tree pierces an average of 3 cm (yes, the 3.0 model was more powerful).
cans, coffee cans and paint cans are torn through and through on both sides, even despite the limiters on the bullets.
breaks through one side of the bucket and gets stuck due to the stopper.
in experiments with beets (replacing potatoes), it was found that plywood can no longer be pierced with root crops. this was due to a reduction in power and caliber. (before, potato bullets were larger).
short nail shells get stuck in a two-centimeter board due to the limiter, showing up a little from the back.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MEASURING THE INITIAL SPEED OF A BULLET

and so, guys, measuring the speed of a bullet without a chronograph. let's go.
At first I decided to take acoustic measurements: you record the sound of a shot and the sound of a hit on a voice recorder, then you look at the sound editor how much time has passed between these two sounds, divide the distance from which you fired by the time obtained and get the speed. it seems simple - I thought, and carried out more than 20 measurements ... the results turned out to be too dissimilar to each other. somewhere they were underestimated (I thought so), somewhere they were fantastic (more than 2000 m / s I got on two measurements). Apparently I don't know how to use a sound editor (pfff). I decided to give up and started measuring speed with a ballistic pendulum. the principle is this: a suspension (taphtalogy) is suspended at a certain height, at which you need to shoot. the bullet should be stuck in the gimbal. after the shot, the bullet transfers energy to the gimbal, which causes it to move, moving the slider in front of it. after which the distance by which the slider has moved is measured. a tricky formula is taken and the speed of the bullet is calculated.
for all this pendulum shenanigans, I needed to know the exact mass of the bullet and the mass of the suspension. I didn’t have scales .. I had to make .. lever ones. rather suitable scales were obtained, capable of measuring the load with an accuracy of plus or minus 3 g at big weight and accurate to the gram with a very low weight. on the counterweight, I poured water with a syringe. since the volume of water is numerically equal to its mass (that is, 10 ml \u003d 10 g).
having learned all the necessary parameters, I proceeded to measure the initial speed of the bullet.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  RESULTS

I fired two types of projectiles: beet bullets and nails.
to begin with, I did not take a steam bath with the accuracy and purity of measurements. took more than 20 measurements and ... was horrified: 0 the speed of the bullet when shooting beets reached 382 m / s ... but .. to achieve such a speed, it is necessary that the air be heated. but in my air it does not heat up with anything, and I shot in the evening: there was no sun. what is it .. can not be ... I decided to reject the results and do everything again.
updated measurements were taken. all the next day I did nothing but try to achieve the greatest accuracy. scales have also been changed, they have become more accurate. it turned out that my gimbal weighs 20 g less (it's not that much, but still). I also tried to take into account many factors, including the time of day. and not in vain! after calculating the speed of the bullet, it was found that at night the air gun shoots a little weaker than during the day. apparently due to a decrease in air temperature at night.
more than 40 refined measurements were carried out.
to begin with, I’ll tell you about a nail bullet, the mass of which was 6.5 g (plus or minus 0.3 g).
the initial flight speed of the carnation varied between 48 and 56 m/s. seems like a little? still breaks through the bucket.
let's see what happens with shells from the root crop.
I measured the bullets in groups of 20-30 pieces and divided the resulting mass by the number of bullets. so the average mass of one bullet was obtained - 0.44 g.
the initial speed of the bullet was 173 - 195 m / s ...
this will not kill anyone .... it's a pity like that. and in flight, due to their irregular (almost square) shape, they quickly lose all their power. if you shoot at an aluminum sheet from 5 meters, then distinct beet dents form in it, and when you shoot at the same sheet from a distance of 20 m, only a wet spot remains. I was not upset by this, because the whole thing is in the bullets, and not in the air itself.
I would like to note that the pneumatic gun was made quite powerful, but still did not exceed the power of the world's most powerful factory airgun Hatsan 125. Also, do not forget about other characteristics. reliability, accuracy, and especially the rate of fire of my pneumatics leaves much to be desired. yes, I can easily hit a 0.5 by 0.5 m aluminum sheet from a distance of 20 m, but the accuracy should be much better. in regards to speed. I did not take measurements on this matter, but if you estimate by eye, it turns out about 15-20 seconds per shot .. hmm .. I thought it would be much more.
On the whole, I consider my work quite suitable and successful.
Thank you so much to everyone who has read. you can put a like on this message, just so I know that someone has read it, and you can also leave your comment, question, criticism right here ... or if you find any jambs, then be sure to write about it.
V next time let's do something more powerful than Turkey: D
everyone beaver.

Tags: How to make an air pump at home

How to make pneumatics at home? In this video you will learn about it! Attention! Don't hesitate to shoot...

How to make a butt for a homemade airgun. Help me give me the dimensions or how to air a rifle from a pump. | Topic Author: Nina

Anna Hello!
You had fun with a rifle from a pump !! ! It's cheaper to buy Polina's MP-512 right away, and only then UP-knock if you get bored. Or take IZH-60 right away, with subsequent upgrade to PCP, only this will require up to 3 thousand, for vintar and whales for another 10 thousand rubles.
I won’t describe here what and how to do, it’s better to give links to the main airganer resources right away, everything is explained and shown in detail.
Here are the links for Murka 512 -
Or look on another site for airgunners - talks.guns.ru, there is a lot of things there
I see another pneumatic airgunner is born!! !
Pneumatic pneumatized sees from afar!! !The crows raging at your dacha and your neighbor's dacha don't have long to live.
Just follow the safety rules for using weapons !!!
Good luck! Bye!

Natalia  Maybe you will find something

Inna   here you are

Pneumatic weapons are more suitable for fans of game crafts, homemade weapons. We will tell you the very principle of manufacturing pneumatic weapons. For an aesthetic appearance of pneumatics, wooden parts can be treated or other materials can be used. You can also do .

How to make an air gun?

For the manufacture of pneumatic weapons, you will need the following tools and materials:

1. Fitting, automobile or bicycle;
2. 3 wooden blocks:
   • The first is 30 cm;
   • The second is 12 cm;
   • Third - 11 cm;

   In the smallest bar, on one side, we drill a hole through a smaller diameter, then drill it halfway with a large drill.

3. Lid from dishwashing detergent;
4. plastic tube;
5. Epoxy adhesive;
6. Half liter bottle;
7. packaging of metal balls.

Cut a hole on the side of the bottle for the diameter of the fitting. We glue it with epoxy glue to seal the bottle. Tighten the fitting with a nut.

We cut off the cork of the bottle a little and insert a plastic tube and also fill it with glue. We also fill the threaded neck of the bottle and twist the second part of the cork.

We insert the cork with the tube into the hole in the bar. Fill the remaining space with epoxy.

We connect a long bar with a short one. On the middle bar, cut off the edge at a slight angle. We glue a long bar to it with the back. Then we glue the ring cut off from the cap and glue it to the bottom of the bottle.

Final stage

And the last step is to connect the bottle to the airgun.

Pneumatics are a very handy thing for shooting while fishing or hunting. The power of pressurized air should not be underestimated, given this energy, weapons can be made for specific needs. The most real homemade weapon is pump-action. A separate chamber and a pump are installed here, pumping the required pressure into it. The power will depend on the volume of the tank and the volume of air injected, and accordingly, it is possible to make air from bicycle pump with your own hands of such power that is required.

Pneumatic weapons are similar in shape and features to combat weapons, but here, not gunpowder, but moving air is used as the energy of the shot. The sound of a shot from a pneumatic gun is almost inaudible, that is, the most suitable option for using an air gun is to hunt birds and small animals, when a shot from a simple gun scares them.

Pneumatics differ in various characteristics. Different types weapons include the following indicators: the way the cartridge is fired, the dimensions and weight of the gun, its power of shot, the scope of use.

According to the method of the mechanism for the departure of ammunition, an air gun can be:

1. Gas spring system. The principle of operation is based on the use of a gas spring.
2. Spring-piston design. In pneumatics with this method of operation, the bullet gets its initial flight speed under the influence of air squeezed out of the cylinder by the movement of the piston. There is a spring in the storage tank, it pushes the piston during cocking.
3. Gas cylinder system. The role of the source of the force of the shot is played by gas cylinders with carbon dioxide. This principle of operation of the mechanism, as a rule, is not used in rifles, but in pistols.
4. Electropneumatics. In these guns, air is pumped by an electric motor that runs on a battery.

There is another classification of pneumatic guns - an indicator of the energy of the bullet's flight.

Based on this criterion, guns are divided into:

1. The minimum power, which is no more than 3 J. This pneumatics is lightweight, has a simple design. Used for shooting short distances. For example, in a dash.
2. Soft pneumatic guns, with a power of approximately 3-3.5 J. They are mainly used to teach shooting skills.
3. Paintball weapon. Pneumatics with a power of 3.5-7 J. Paint balls are used as ammunition. By appearance they look like military weapons.
4. Magnum-class air rifles. Power is about 7.5-25 J. It is used for sports and training purposes and for hunting small animals.
5. Powerful pneumatics with power ratings over 25 J are used in hunting and for military operations. In terms of muzzle energy, it can be compared with combat rifles.

Many of the guns have a power that is not more than 7 J, since the purchase of this rifle does not require a license and special storage conditions. Powerful pneumatics can be bought to order and only upon receipt of the appropriate permit.

When choosing pneumatics, you must first determine what the gun will be used for. If you want a rifle for recreational shooting, then you can choose an inexpensive simple model that has a minimum of power. If you buy pneumatics for hunting purposes, you need to choose a Magnum class gun.

During the acquisition, it is necessary to pay attention to the following characteristics of the gun, such as:

1. Accuracy, which will depend not only on how well the polishing was done inside the barrel, but also on the installation of the sighting device. On budget products, a conventional sight is installed in the form of a comb at the end of the barrel. Optics for pneumatics can be purchased additionally. On modern expensive guns, an optical sight is already installed in the kit.
2. Power is one of the main indicators. The more powerful the gun, the better the lethal energy of the ejected cartridge and more accurate shot. For hunting purposes and sports training shooting, only very powerful guns can be used.
3. Price. If there is a desire to buy something of high quality that is used in different purposes, in particular for hunting, you need to count on a decent cost of weapons.
4. Pneumatic material. The reliability and duration of operation of the weapon will depend on this characteristic. Basically, air weapons are made of wood and gun steel, but today you can see models made of plastic composite and its types. They cost a little, but are not as reliable, and are relatively risky to use.
5. Manufacturing mechanism. Both the weight of the gun and the initial speed, as well as the trajectory when the cartridge is fired, and the accuracy of fire will depend on this characteristic. The cost of a shot depends on the option for obtaining power. For example, for gas-cylinder pneumatics, you need to purchase CO2 cylinders. Which, given the price of one can, is quite significant.

When buying pneumatics for hunting purposes, only a powerful gun is suitable for small animals. In order for the hunt to be successful, it is necessary that the air was made with high quality. How to choose a pneumatic weapon for hunting is a separate issue.

Hatsan shotguns are the most popular. Due to the huge selection, this manufacturer is a leader in the arms market. On expensive models there is an installed optics.

How much pneumatics will cost depends on the technical indicators and the manufacturer. The most expensive are European brands. The cheapest MP512M shotgun is a Russian-made weapon.

The assembly technology is not difficult, it made the whole process simple and inexpensive. As a rule, the valve is considered the most complex mechanism during the assembly of this type of guns; it must open instantly when the trigger is pressed. However, there are no problems with this, the trigger mechanism is not difficult to make and works great.

Materials and tools

List of required tools:

• screwdriver;
• epoxy;
• small hammer;
• welding;
• pliers.

List of required materials:

• a piece of rubber hose;
• a piece of PVC pipe and 2 plugs (required for the cylinder);
• metal wire;
• beam (base of the weapon);
• sheet metal (required for the manufacture of brackets);
• self-tapping screws;
• 2 metal clamps;
• metal tube for installing the barrel;
• 2 copper pipes (for connecting hoses to the cylinder);
• directly bicycle pump;
• a piece of gum from the camera.

Instruction

The first stage is the theory of the compression chamber.

All the elements of this homemade weapon were made in advance, it only shows how the pneumatics are assembled. The cylinder is presented in the form of a piece of PVC pipe, where the plugs are located. It is necessary to fix the latter firmly and sometimes there is not enough glue, it is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws. In this case, the most important thing is that the cylinder be airtight and able to hold high pressure.

There is one fitting at each end of the tank. In the role of the latter, you can use pieces of tubes, remember that they must have a fairly large cross section in order to quickly release compressed air. We drill holes under the pipes and put them on the epoxy.

Then a piece of soft tube is placed on one of the fittings, it looks black in the photo. Insulation must be wound on the second fitting, and the pump is connected to it. If it does not have a check valve, then it must certainly be in the design. In the role of insulation, you can use fum tape.

As for the volume of the cylinder, in this case an individual approach is required. By by and large one shot is fired, so it is useless to make it very large. In pneumatics, the cylinder is small, but it is already powerful. It does not require volume, but pressure of compressed air.

Stage two - fastening the cylinder to the basesani.

As a base for pneumatics, a bar was used, which was given the necessary profile. In this case, it is necessary to work with a knife, make a series of holes and the like, in general, there is nothing complicated.

We bring a black hose, and fix soft sheet metal to the cylinder. Next, you need to make brackets for fastening from it, taking into account the shape of the camera, then fix it to the base using self-tapping screws. It is best to put an elastic band under the clamps; a bicycle camera is suitable for this role.

Stage three - installation of a bicycle pump.

The entire structure is powered by a pump. First, it connects to the camera. What is used for a small piece of rubber hose and a few metal clamps. Carefully tighten the latter so as not to bleed air.

Next, attach the pump to the pneumatics. It must be firmly fixed, because during pumping air it can come off. In this case, everything is fixed with one clamp, but this is not very reliable. It is necessary to put an elastic band between the clamp and the pump, otherwise it will slide.

Stage four - fixing the triggermechanism.

In this case, you will need a soft black hose going to the barrel from the cylinder. To prevent air supply, you only need to block access to it in the hose.

To pinch the hose, a special design is used, made of metal wire, which is welded or soldered. It is attached to the trigger. When pressed, the hose unclenches and air from the cylinder enters the barrel. Everything is fixed on 2 self-tapping screws and 1 steel pin, driven into the beam and holding the hook.

Stage five -stem attachment.

A metal pipe was chosen as the barrel. A black hose is connected to it, coming from the cylinder. Everything is fastened with a steel clamp, otherwise the hose will be torn off by pressure. The barrel itself must also be firmly fixed with homemade metal clamps and rubber bands from the bicycle chamber.

The gun is assembled. In the end, you need to take care that the wooden beam does not absorb moisture. It is best to treat with linseed oil.

Stage six - testing.

First you need to block the black hose with a trigger. Then air is pumped into the cylinder. How much to pump, it turns out experimentally. Important - do not overfill, as very high pressure will rupture the cylinder. The pressure must be created so that the cartridge has time to develop maximum speed.

Shoot the rifle and write down how many times you need to pump air.

We comply with security measures

There are a few rules safe operation pneumatics:

1. If the weapon is not in use, you need to unload it and remove it from the platoon. It is necessary to load a rifle only at the shooting range, and after being ready to shoot. It is necessary to discharge only after the end - before it is packed in a case.
2. Treat every rifle as if it were loaded. Hold the barrel so that it is pointed in a safe position.
3. Safe storage of pneumatics is also important, as is its operation. You need to store the rifle in a gun safe, in a discharged position, in a closed state. It is necessary to limit the access of small children. Don't forget in childhood any gun is of great interest. The owner of the weapon will need to be responsible for the consequences.
4. Certain models of pneumatics, after cocking the spring, can only be discharged with a shot. Moreover, it is necessary not to forget that a blank shot from a spring-piston gun cannot be done - this will lead to a quick failure of the weapon. And accordingly, in order to defuse it, you need to shoot a bullet in a safe direction. But empty shots do not harm PSP and CO2 weapons. Read the instruction manual.
5. No need to touch the trigger if you are not sure of the shot. You need to train yourself to keep your finger further from the hook (on or behind the shackle). No need to try to pull the trigger if the rifle is locked with a safety.
6. Do not rely on the fuse or other safety measures. It is necessary to treat each rifle with the feeling that it will fire at any time, without even pulling the trigger. Both the fuse and the trigger are only mechanical devices. Like everything, they can break. At the same time, the human factor (incorrect disassembly, incorrect adjustment) is much more likely to cause involuntary shots.
7. Choose only the right ammo. Any gun needs to use bullets of the exact specified type and caliber. The use of others will result in damage to the gun or accidents resulting from an uncontrolled shooting outcome.
8. You need to be clearly confident in the target and what is behind. The cartridge does not stop in the air. You don't need to shoot until you're sure where the cartridge will end up and what obstacles it might encounter along the way.
9. Use personal protective equipment for eyes and ears. Although this mainly applies to military weapons, certain models of pneumatics can be quite loud in indoor shooting ranges.
10. If the pneumatics did not fire a shot while pulling the trigger, you must be extremely careful. The risk of an unexpected shot with a broken gun is much greater than usual. You need to point the barrel to a safe area, and handle the pneumatics as carefully as possible. If the gun did not work once, there is a great chance that it will happen again.
11. No need to modify the gun without necessary training but you have to constantly take care of it. Modifications will require training and skills. This also applies to pneumatics. Serious improvements should be entrusted to professionals.
12. Before firing, make sure the bore is clean. The presence of third-party items will cause damage to the weapon.
13. It is necessary to shoot only in a sober state! Like driving a car, pneumatics are a subject of high danger.
14. Each weapon is subject to wear and tear, requires periodic cleaning and care, in the timely replacement of broken elements. The main part of the care tips that are suitable for a specific weapon model is in the instruction manual.

It is necessary to explain the above rules to all people who may have access to pneumatics, including relatives and young children. Do not store refilled PSP rifle pressure cartridges at home or in the car. Repressurize pressure vessels regularly. Take advantage common sense and always imagine the consequences of further actions.