Homemade pneumatic dart launcher. DIY air rifle toy How to make an air gun

Can air produce a significant effect?

For example, we need to blow off a stack of books with air from our lungs ( by the way a wonderful item to bet with friends).

No matter how much you try, this task for a person (supermen and other superheroes does not count) is impossible. No matter how much we blow, the books will lie in place. But what if we cheat a little and put an ordinary balloon under a stack of books and blow air into it. You will notice that without the slightest effort our books will rise above the table. And we used all the same air from our lungs ( you can proudly emerge from the dispute as a winner).

The difference lies in the fact that in the second case, we locked our air in a limited space and did not allow it to spread in all directions. And when the air has nowhere to go, it starts to work like a spring.

Such a compressed state of air and gas is studied by pneumatics. Pneumatics(from Greek. breath, puff) - a branch of physics, dedicated to mechanisms and devices that use the difference in gas pressure for their work.

In other words, any pneumatic device uses compressed gas in its work.

Pneumatic mechanisms are found all around us. These are brakes in buses, trolleybuses and trucks, these are doors in the same buses (did you hear how compressed air hisses when opened ?!), these are jackhammers that make holes in the asphalt ...

…and of course pneumatic guns.

popular fun paint ball(Paintball), where they run around with guns and shoot paintballs at each other, I'm sure everyone knows. Who has not played, I advise!

So in this article we will tell and show how to make a real pneumatic gun with our own hands - a compressed air gun.

What is this gun capable of? We look:

Materials:

plastic bottle 1.5 l.;

bicycle nipple;

a plumbing adapter with a tap (from ¾ inch to ½ inch), a coupling (¾ inch), a piece of metal-plastic pipe 70 cm (diameter ½ inch), a sealing tape.

The last picture shows alternative parts (we did not have them at the beginning) that are also great for our case (adapter with a ½ to 3/4 tap and a ¾ female threaded coupling).

Equipment:

superglue, nail or screw with a wide head, scissors, burner, knife, pliers, gas wrench, file.

Step 1.

We cut the thread from the bottle with a knife. We cut off the rest with a file or sandpaper.

Step 2

With a screw with a wide head heated on the fire of an alcohol stove (or gas stove), we melt a hole in the bottom of the bottle.

Step 3

We cut off the nipple from the old bicycle tube and insert it into the hole in the bottom of the bottle from the inside. For this:

1. We thread the thread through the holes of the bottle through and through.
2. At the end of the thread we tie our nipple, and pull at the other end.
3. In this way, you can easily thread the nipple from the inside of the bottle.

Step 4

Glue the nipple to the bottle with superglue. The main thing is ---- to ensure 100% tightness of the gluing, otherwise we will not be able to pump the bottle up to sufficient pressure for us.

To improve gluing, you can pre-clean the hole in the bottom with a file from the outside and inner sides, get rid of burrs, glue a rubber washer cut from the same old bicycle inner tube (both inside and out); you can use a sealant or hot melt adhesive; and you can combine it all.

Remember the tightness and rigidity of the structure so that our nipple does not come off when the pump is connected.

Step 5

We wind the sleeve on the neck of the bottle by ¾ inch. Because the neck of the bottle is plastic, it lends itself quite well to winding without pre-threading. We tighten the coupling until it stops in the outer rim of the neck. If necessary, use a gas key.

Step 6

We screw our crane into the second end of the coupling. We pre-seal the faucet threads with a plumbing sealing tape. (You can seal in any other way convenient for you).

Let me remind you once again that the tightness of the structure is very important for us.

Step 7

We wind a piece of metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ½ inch onto the tap thread. The thread may not be pre-cut, because. the plastic inside the pipe can easily be screwed tightly onto the tap thread itself.

We took a piece of pipe 70 cm in length.

Step 8

Our air gun is ready! We enjoy the fruits of our labor and prepare for trials.

See below for detailed video assembly instructions:

To test an airgun, we need:

1) a pump (preferably with a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the bottle),

2) projectiles (paintballs, fruits, vegetables, water, paper balls ... whatever).

Instructions for use:

1. We close the tap.
2. We pump air into the bottle up to 3-4 atmospheres. Be careful not to overfill the bottle. (At a pressure of 6 atmospheres, my bottle exploded.)
3. We charge the gun with our projectile through the muzzle.
4. We aim and shoot, abruptly opening the tap.

Attention! Perform all actions with compressed air under adult supervision!

Do not point at people or animals!

Pneumatics can become a dangerous weapon in the hands of people without a sense of proportion and responsibility for their actions.

Good luck!

Everyone is healthy. I will boast of another homemade product called a pneumatic dart launcher.


Type of pump.


And here is the ammunition: a homemade dart from a nail 9 cm long and with a total length of 12 cm with plumage.


Compared to a matchbox.


Well, a little theory, in short, air is pumped into the balloon from under the mounting foam with a bicycle pump (we pump it up to a maximum of 5 atmospheres), then we let it through the water tap into the tube in which the dart is located, under pressure the dot flies out at a very high speed and flies very far. The dart launcher was tested on a chicken, a hare (dead) and I was very pleased because it pierced both right through, while the plumage of the dart remained in the carcass. but today I will show you a test on a tree (pine) when shooting from two meters.
open the rubber seal




put a dart in.


close the shutter and shoot at this tree.


we hit and mark the depth.


tear it out with pliers and screw it up.


Here is a comparison with a matchbox.


So let's sum it all up.
There are no photos and videos of manufacturing, I was fascinated by the assembly process. All connections are made by cold welding. darts made of nails and paper with a joint wrapped with electrical tape.
Well, as without the parameters of the dart launcher.
barrel length 70 cm
diameter 20mm
material metal-plastic
aluminum stock, bolted connections
compressed air tank material like tin can
connections of the cylinder with the barrel and the valve are made by cold welding
well, now the shooting parameters
effective range 100-150 meters
the total range of the dart at a barrel angle of 30 degrees is about 400 meters
pressure in the cylinder 4.5 atmospheres
and here are the pros and cons
+ simple design, will collect at least one of the cavo's hands grow from where it is necessary
+ lethality
+ availability of materials for both manufacturing and shells
- long reload
- in case of poor sealing, a rupture will occur (to avoid it, you need to pump up a little balloon with air and lower it into the water, from where the bubbles will go there and close up)
-accuracy floats but mostly indoors from a distance of 10 meters, accuracy is 15cm with a 70cm barrel, and 10cm with a meter barrel
Of course, everything suits me. Here are a couple of tips if you collect according to my technology: do not spare cold welding, do not inflate the cylinder more than 6 atmospheres. I can't post the video for technical reasons.
In my plans, the design of a pneumatic machine is maturing, so we are waiting.
See you.

Hello, man.
this summer vacation lasted two months, and all this time I was engaged in pneumatics.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  SELECTED TYPE OF PNEUMATICS

Firstly, it is worth mentioning the direction of my developments.
rate of fire, accuracy, reliability - I decided not to touch all these characteristics, but directed all my engineering power to achieve maximum power.
Pneumatics are of different types. I will not be lazy and will tell you in more detail.
well-known air breaks, or as they are scientifically called spring-piston pneumatics (PPP). when fired, the piston begins to move along the cylinder, building up pressure in it, which in turn begins to push the bullet out of the barrel. This type of pneumatics is very common due to the simplicity of its design. most of this type of air blowers are low-power, however, there are very strong representatives of spring-piston pneumatics (Hatsan 125).
the next type is PCP pneumatics (pi-si-pi). it has a built-in balloon, into which a lot of air is pumped. usually in factory "pisipishki" the pressure in the balloon is about 300 atmospheres. a full balloon is usually enough for many dozens of shots. once I found on the Internet a home-made PCP-pneumatics, made not by schoolchildren, I am adult uncles, whose hands grow from where they need to. in that air balloon, the balloon was pumped again up to 300 atm. and it was enough for 400 shots (!!!). this type of pneumatics has a high rate of fire, and if you turn to Wikipedia, it will be mentioned there that some airs of this type have an initial bullet speed of up to 450 m / s (this is a lot for pneumatics). but unfortunately I did not find a single PCP pneumatic on the Internet, in which the same indicator would exceed 350 m / s ...
the next type of pneumatics is gas cylinder. most often presented in the form of pneumatic pistols. the principle of operation of such pneumatics is very similar to the PCP, but instead of the usual compressed air, carbon dioxide contained in the can is used. usually one spray is enough for 50 shots, after which it is replaced with a new one. such pneumatics are not very different in power ... and anything else ... (a toy, as for me).
and the last type of pneumatics that I will talk about is compression pneumatics. in such airs there is a built-in pump, with which one pump is made, after which a shot is fired. to shoot again, you need to swing the pump again. there is also multi-compression pneumatics (MK). here you can already make a few strokes with a pump. but after each shot, you need to download again. power depends on the number of strokes. you can swing 1 time and knock down the jar with a shot, or you can swing 10 times and make a hole through the duck along: 0
this type of pneumatic has a very low rate of fire, but it has a huge potential for power. so I started making MK pneumatics. Let's move on to reviewing the first model.

Pavlenty (Bhaumi)  MODEL 1.0 BALLON SIZE

Initially, I did not really understand that for one shot you need not so much air. main pressure. and the larger the cylinder, the more air and the longer it must be pumped to achieve the desired pressure. in this regard, my first model Turkey 1.0 was made from a can of a potato sprayer from pests. she was bulky. you couldn't hold it in your hands. although it looks powerful in appearance (well, it seems to me), but in fact, in order for this nonsense to spit something out of itself at least a meter, it was necessary to make 100+ strokes with the pump: 0 it took more than 2 minutes to charge. besides, this gun was not mobile.
in the photo is an air vent without a barrel. the wooden handle with the pin is the release valve. you hit the handle down, and a bird flies out of the muzzle.
this 1.0 model was far from my ideal.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.0

after unsuccessful tests, I decided to cardinally change everything. the Turkey 2.0 model was much more mobile, although it had to carry a pump attached to the hose. Here I decided to drastically reduce the volume of the balloon. in this model, it was approximately 180 ml and was made of aluminum pipe. the photo shows that a car nipple sticks out of the balloon. after testing, it was found that it was impossible to pump the balloon normally through the nipple, so I had to tear off the nipple and connect the pump directly. that is, the air was inseparable from the pump, which significantly reduced its mobility.
power ... yes, the power was on top. pierced 2 - 2.5 cm of wood with a nail, an iron cover with a drill. but would like more :)
trigger mechanism remains the same. I had to hit the handle from above, which is not very convenient. and if you shoot from a distance of more than 5 m, then it’s generally impossible to get anywhere (haha)
a shutter was also made for popping shells. free assistant helped me with the photos.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  CALIBER

my caliber was 9 mm. By the way, the caliber of most factory air vents is 4.5 mm. the large caliber somehow upset me, because more air was required to push out the large-caliber projectile, which means that you need to pump more with the pump. I told my friend about my problem. he successfully joked that if I reduce the barrel, then my air gun will then shoot with the barrels themselves. during that conversation, I thought it was absurd... I didn't know what was going to happen next.
I liked shooting drills the most. they have one very good plus. due to the fact that they have a helical geometry, they twist in flight, thereby becoming more stable in flight. during the experiments, the drill never crashed flat. if you take powerful factory pneumatics or even combat rifles, then the barrel is cut there. due to which the bullet passing through the barrel begins to rotate. significantly increases the range, accuracy, stability of the bullet in flight. I definitely can’t cut the barrel in my workshop: (this requires a special machine. But firing with drills slightly compensates for the lack of a chopped barrel due to the fact that the drill itself is, as it were, cut.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.1 AND 2.2

The next stage in the evolution of my pneumatics was an even greater reduction in the volume of the cylinder. in model 2.1 (photos of this model have not been preserved), its volume was approximately 100 ml. if in model 2.0 it was necessary to make 8 pump strokes (there is simply not enough strength), then in model 2.1 you need to do 6 pump strokes to the maximum. while the power is the same. and here there was a problem ... if I can’t already pump more with the pump ... that is, 6 strokes is the maximum: crisis, I thought that everything was lost, there was no more sense in this life, until one thought hit my head... according to Pascal's formula (or whatever it is): pressure is equal to force divided by area, we can conclude that the smaller the pump has a piston ( i.e. the cuff, i.e. the diameter of the cylinder) the easier it is to pump the pump. (I could paint everything better, but I won’t bother, whoever wants to, he will understand). in general, it dawned on me: you need to throw away the factory hand pump and make your own with a smaller cylinder diameter. which is what I actually did. after several unsuccessful attempts to make my own "overpressure" pump, I still got this :D
the pump was 90 cm long and could pump a little more than 15 atmospheres. Pavlentiy rejoices. development continues. the next model of my air 2.2 was already with a built-in pump and an even more reduced cylinder. now the volume of the canister was approximately equal to 50 ml.
I could do 5 strokes with the pump (I didn’t master it further), but this was enough to break through more than 3 cm of wood with the pump. a breakthrough was made. power increased, and reload time decreased (from 6 to 5 strokes). wow, comrades. photos of model 2.2. attached:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 2.3

if you look at the pictures of Turkey 2.2, you can see that the pump and cylinder are perpendicular to the barrel. this is very inconvenient and not beautiful ... fii ... it was necessary to somehow make the whole thing more compact. after a little thought, I decided to go to the store and buy 2 water corners there. these are probably the only 2 things I have bought. yes, yes, reader. all the air, except for these two corners, is collected from the trash that I found next to the house (well, or in the house). having bought these two nonsense, each for 70 rubles (140 rubles ... yes, I’ll go broke like that), I made the barrel parallel to the pump and spray can. like this. this is model 2.3.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.0

After experimenting with Turkey 2.3, I realized (it's strange why not right away) that I have to make a lot of effort to open the trigger valve, that is, to shoot. the trigger mechanism remained after all the same primitive: you hit the pin with your hand, which pushes the valve. something had to be done about it. after watching all sorts of videos on YouTube about homemade PCP air blasters, I noticed that they all have a striker (baffle. I don’t know what it’s called. pfft). in general, I decided to make a drummer.
there was a problem ... before I did without a bed, I did not need it. but if you make a drummer, then it must be fixed behind the release valve. that is, I had to make some kind of frame to place everything on it.
having climbed the mountain "Olympus of construction" and having come there to the master Ivan (my father), I asked him for ... a board. yes thicker. he gave me access to a bunch of boards, and after a bit of thinking, I decided to take an oak board (strong oak). take oak - it was my mistake. if I had taken pine or linden, then I would have made a bed in one day, but for 3 days I was busy with an oak board, gouging out of it something similar to a bed. after a gentle treatment, it began to look quite fit.
the striker has a lever that must be pulled to cock it. after that, it remains in a taut position. need to shoot outside thumb right hand push the lever up. it will slide off the step and from acceleration (under the action of the spring in it) will hit the valve. it is hard to cock (it means powerful), but if you make more than 4 strokes with the pump, then the drummer often does not overpower to open the valve. this is very bad, because, I'm afraid, I won't make a more powerful drummer. Introducing Turkey 3.0:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  FIELD TEST MODEL 3.0

I have done many tests with this model. Unfortunately, the photos were taken a little, since then I had not yet thought about the fact that they would be needed and that my airbox would still undergo big changes.
Let's move on to testing.
it is worth saying that, as a rule, my shells always have some kind of limiters: nails have hats that prevent them from entering the target further, drills have a thick layer of electrical tape at the end so that it fits in caliber. in this regard, the shells, although they had a large penetrating ability, did not always penetrate their targets. however, targets such as cans and coffee cans were sewn through on both sides and even two cans per shot.
I like to measure penetration on wood. model 3.0 hammered a nail 3 - 3.5 cm. excellent. I also had a hollow brick from the heater. shooting at him with a drill, I got a complete penetration of one side. this surprised me. to break through 1.5 - 2 cm of brick - I really like it. power is excellent. having shot all the cans and lost all the drills, I decided to make ultra-light traumatic bullets from potatoes, and later from beets. at first I wanted to shoot potatoes at people, but after testing on plywood, I realized that even potatoes can cause serious harm to a person. shooting potatoes at the plywood, I was stunned. a small piece of root crop pierced plywood: 0 while the projectile scattered into molecules (this is a figurative expression).
I also decided to play a little with plasticine, namely to shoot at it and look at the traces of hits. and now the pics:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.1 DIMENSIONS

it would seem that it is time to finish the project, everything is fine, the power is excellent, but I was not very satisfied with the size of my Turkey. the total length of the air was 148 cm. in addition, it had to be pumped. after the pump rod was extended, the length of the air increased by another 80 cm. That is, this nonsense was already under 2 meters. it was inconvenient to pump, pneuma was heavy. there is power, but I would like to see it in a more compact mode. I decided to take a desperate step: shorten the overall length of the air. first of all, it was necessary to shorten the pump, the length of which was 90 cm. then it turned out that my barrel of 9 mm caliber and 87 cm long was longer than the pump, so it became impossible to pump air. I was sorry to shorten the trunk. I will not find such a tube anywhere else (a handle from a mop). I decided to take the pipe from the curtain. I will have 5 meters of these pipes. the barrel was made 50 cm long. Accuracy at a long distance would naturally decrease, but since I didn’t have a sight and I aimed stupidly at the eye, along the barrel, there was plenty of accuracy with a 50 cm barrel. caliber has also been reduced. now it is 7.5 mm. and if the caliber is smaller, then the speed of the bullet will be greater. I also shortened the balloon a little. its volume became about 30-40 ml. after all the modifications, I assembled the 3.1 model and got a total length of 126 cm, that is, it became 30 cm shorter than the previous model. by completely redesigning the pump rod, namely by making it from an aluminum tube instead of an iron pin, I significantly reduced the weight of the air. now it has become lighter and more compact.
remember, I said about the joke about shooting guns? so, after some shots, the barrel simply flew out of the trigger tube .. if it weren’t for the handle on the barrel, it would fly out of the air completely. This is no longer funny: 0 I had to make a tighter shutter, which slightly reduced the convenience of closing it.
what about power? power ... it decreased: (decreased significantly: ((
now the board was pierced by a nail no more than 3 cm (within 2.5 - 3 cm). I got upset. but the work of shortening the pneuma had already been done and nothing could be returned back. I decided that such power is also quite decent.
as for the pump, now the maximum could be pumped 8 times (instead of 5). thus the rate of fire has dropped. I was not very upset, because the pump became smaller and more convenient, it was possible to compensate for the recharge time with a quick pump.

Paulentius (Bhaumi)  Hatsan 125

I will make a small lyrical digression.
The most powerful airgun I have seen on the Internet is the Turkish spring-piston Hatsan 125. According to the manufacturer, its muzzle velocity can reach 380 m/s... let's make a comparison.
bullet speed u:
Makarov pistol - 315 m / s
pistol TT - 420 m/s
AK-47 - 715 m/s
SVD - 830 s / m
Mosin rifles - 870 m / s
tank t-90 - 1700 m / s
the latest electromagnetic gun in Russia (railgun) - 5500 m / s
:D
someone may have noticed that Makarov has a much lower bullet speed than Hatsan. but the air gun has a bullet mass of 0.5 g, while Makarov has more than 6 g. Here lies the hidden energy of the firearm. although Hatsan has a high muzzle velocity, this airgun has a muzzle energy of only 33 J, while for the Makarov Pistol it is 300 J. 10 times more. but there is a big BUT: when hunting small game (duck, bunny) there is nothing better than pneumatics. Hatsan can go right through a duck, more than enough to take him down. in addition, the pneumatics have very little recoil and shot noise.
a few words about muzzle energy. according to the law, pneumatics cannot be more powerful than 25 J. Hatsan has 33 J .. the law is circumvented in this way: when buying a blower, there is a weakened spring, due to which the power drops to the permitted (25 J), and Hatsan comes with a reinforced spring. the buyer at home or with the help of a master changes a weakened spring to a reinforced one and receives 33 J. like this.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MODEL 3.2 FINAL DEVELOPMENT

Turkey version 3.0 turned out to be the most powerful. but due to its length and mass, it did not become the conclusion of this project. I decided to achieve increased power by improving the quality of some parts. I spent purely 1 day trying to make a good trigger valve that opens when needed, closes when needed, practically does not poison and does not break after 2-3 shots. development is secret, I did not take pictures. then I finalized the trigger itself, making it better and more convenient. there was a normal trigger. now it was not necessary to protrude the lever on the bump stop with your thumb. I also tried to better connect the pump with the spray can and with the trigger mechanism.
the bed was painted black. appearance turned out pretty decent. beauty :D

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  more photos:

Paulentius (Bhaumi)  and more:

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  FIELD TESTS OF THE FINAL VERSION

the development of my air gun is finished. this is the final version. which means it's time to conduct penetration tests, as well as to measure the muzzle velocity of the bullet.
go.
shells are made from a nail (150 mm). bullet weight 6 g.
the tree pierces an average of 3 cm (yes, the 3.0 model was more powerful).
cans, coffee cans and paint cans are torn through and through on both sides, even despite the limiters on the bullets.
breaks through one side of the bucket and gets stuck due to the stopper.
in experiments with beets (replacing potatoes), it was found that plywood can no longer be pierced with root crops. this was due to a reduction in power and caliber. (before, potato bullets were larger).
short nail shells get stuck in a two-centimeter board due to the limiter, showing up a little from the back.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  MEASURING THE INITIAL SPEED OF A BULLET

and so, guys, measuring the speed of a bullet without a chronograph. let's go.
At first I decided to take acoustic measurements: you record the sound of a shot and the sound of a hit on a voice recorder, then you look at the sound editor how much time has passed between these two sounds, divide the distance from which you fired by the time obtained and get the speed. it seems simple - I thought, and carried out more than 20 measurements ... the results turned out to be too dissimilar to each other. somewhere they were underestimated (I thought so), somewhere they were fantastic (more than 2000 m / s I got on two measurements). Apparently I don't know how to use a sound editor (pfff). I decided to give up and started measuring speed with a ballistic pendulum. the principle is this: a suspension (taphtalogy) is suspended at a certain height, at which you need to shoot. the bullet should be stuck in the gimbal. after the shot, the bullet transfers energy to the gimbal, which causes it to move, moving the slider in front of it. after which the distance by which the slider has moved is measured. a tricky formula is taken and the speed of the bullet is calculated.
for all this pendulum shenanigans, I needed to know the exact mass of the bullet and the mass of the suspension. I didn’t have scales .. I had to make .. lever ones. rather suitable scales were obtained, capable of measuring the load with an accuracy of plus or minus 3 g at big weight and accurate to the gram with a very low weight. on the counterweight, I poured water with a syringe. since the volume of water is numerically equal to its mass (that is, 10 ml \u003d 10 g).
having learned all the necessary parameters, I proceeded to measure the initial speed of the bullet.

Pavlentiy (Bhaumi)  RESULTS

I fired two types of projectiles: beet bullets and nails.
to begin with, I did not take a steam bath with the accuracy and purity of measurements. took more than 20 measurements and ... was horrified: 0 the speed of the bullet when shooting beets reached 382 m / s ... but .. to achieve such a speed, it is necessary that the air be heated. but in my air it does not heat up with anything, and I shot in the evening: there was no sun. what is it .. can not be ... I decided to reject the results and do everything again.
updated measurements were taken. all the next day I did nothing but try to achieve the greatest accuracy. scales have also been changed, they have become more accurate. it turned out that my gimbal weighs 20 g less (it's not that much, but still). I also tried to take into account many factors, including the time of day. and not in vain! after calculating the speed of the bullet, it was found that at night the air gun shoots a little weaker than during the day. apparently due to a decrease in air temperature at night.
more than 40 refined measurements were carried out.
to begin with, I’ll tell you about a nail bullet, the mass of which was 6.5 g (plus or minus 0.3 g).
the initial flight speed of the carnation varied between 48 and 56 m/s. seems like a little? still breaks through the bucket.
let's see what happens with shells from the root crop.
I measured the bullets in groups of 20-30 pieces and divided the resulting mass by the number of bullets. so the average mass of one bullet was obtained - 0.44 g.
the initial speed of the bullet was 173 - 195 m / s ...
this will not kill anyone .... it's a pity like that. and in flight, due to their irregular (almost square) shape, they quickly lose all their power. if you shoot at an aluminum sheet from 5 meters, then distinct beet dents form in it, and when you shoot at the same sheet from a distance of 20 m, only a wet place remains. I was not upset by this, because the whole thing is in the bullets, and not in the air itself.
I would like to note that the pneumatic gun was made quite powerful, but still did not exceed the power of the world's most powerful factory airgun Hatsan 125. Also, do not forget about other characteristics. reliability, accuracy, and especially the rate of fire of my pneumatics leaves much to be desired. yes, I can easily hit a 0.5 by 0.5 m aluminum sheet from a distance of 20 m, but the accuracy should be much better. in regards to speed. I did not take measurements on this matter, but if you estimate by eye, it turns out about 15-20 seconds per shot .. hmm .. I thought it would be much more.
On the whole, I consider my work quite suitable and successful.
Thank you so much to everyone who has read. you can put a like on this message, just so I know that someone has read it, and you can also leave your comment, question, criticism right here ... or if you find any jambs, then be sure to write about it.
V next time let's do something more powerful than Turkey: D
everyone beaver.

Tags: How to make an air pump at home

How to make pneumatics at home? In this video you will learn about it! Attention! Don't hesitate to shoot...

How to make a butt for a homemade airgun. Help me give me the dimensions or how to air a rifle from a pump. | Topic Author: Nina

Anna Hello!
You had fun with a rifle from a pump !! ! It's cheaper to buy Polina's MP-512 right away, and only then UP-knock if you get bored. Or take IZH-60 right away, with subsequent upgrade to PCP, only this will require up to 3 thousand, for vintar and whales for another 10 thousand rubles.
I won’t describe here what and how to do, it’s better to give links to the main airganer resources right away, everything is explained and shown in detail.
Here are the links for Murka 512 -
Or look on another site for airgunners - talks.guns.ru, there is a lot of things there
I see another pneumatic airgunner is born!! !
Pneumatic pneumatized sees from afar!! !The crows raging at your dacha and your neighbor's dacha don't have long to live.
Just follow the safety rules for using weapons !!!
Good luck! Bye!

Natalia  Maybe you will find something

Inna   here you are

When buying an air rifle, many prefer spring-piston models because of their low cost and the absence of the need to buy a pump or cylinder high pressure. But not all shooting enthusiasts know that a do-it-yourself PCP air rifle is not such an impossible task. Few fracture owners enjoy shooting so much that they are willing to pay 15-20 thousand for the purchase of a PCP rifle and another five thousand for a pump (a cylinder costs closer to ten thousand). But many would like to have a PCP rifle at a reasonable price and are willing to buy a pump. Of course, owning a PCP must begin with a source of high pressure air, either a pump or a cylinder with a charging station (which can be filled from divers or familiar firefighters).

So what to do if you want a rifle, but there is not much money? There is an exit. Pneumatic rifle with your own hands - this is a real opportunity to have an inexpensive air. Quite a lot of different kits are sold on the pneumatic weapon market (from the English kit - assembly kit, constructor). The price of a kit equipped for converting a spring (multi-compression) model to a PCP version is in the range of 6-8 thousand rubles. As a rule, from the technical side of the issue, no difficulties arise. All you need is a file, pliers and a hammer.

Step 1 - Finding a donor in shops, flea markets and attics

Rifles IZH-60.61 (MP-60.61) are suitable for conversion to PCP. The difference between IZH and MR is in the receiver, in IZH it is metal, in MR it is plastic. It depends on the year of manufacture. The list of rifles also includes: MP-553, MP-553K, Crosman Benjamine Discovery. Convertible pistols have a much wider selection, but they are all Crosman. Models: 1377,1322, 2240, 2300, American Classic Pistole. It doesn’t matter what condition the donor will be in, the main condition is the whole receiver and trigger (for pistols there is still a handle). suitable model can be purchased both in the store and from individuals in a used condition. You can also exchange your existing rifle for the desired donor. Before altering the air, study the theory; on the Internet, many professionals give advice on specialized sites.

Step 2 - Preparing the Right Tool

Assembling a PCP rifle does not require any special tools. However, not everyone has a hacksaw or a set of needle files. The list of required tools looks like this:

• a set of needle files of different grain sizes;
• thin-nosed pliers, pliers;
• hammer;
• metal saw (jigsaw);
• drills of various diameters.

Step 3 – Buying a set

It is better to buy a whale from a trusted seller, the authors of the whales have their own thread on the forums for the sale of kits (the most popular are Kruger or Kuente). It is necessary to carefully choose the seller, do not chase cheapness. The sale topic should have a lot of pages (it should have been created a long time ago), and moderators and long-registered users should also be noted in the comments in the topic. As a rule, sellers indicate payment details in the topic header. If someone in a personal message asks you to pay using other details, these are scammers.

Step 4 - Rifle Disassembly

We will consider the assembly of a PCP rifle using the example of the MP-60 (Kruger's Sniper kit). The most common rifle model. First you need to disassemble the rifle. All you need is a receiver with a compressor pipe, a barrel and a trigger mechanism.

It is necessary to unscrew the butt plate screw and four screws on both sides of the rifle.

Then you need to remove the retaining ring at the end of the compressor pipe.

Pull out the pin securing the cocking lever and the back of the compressor pipe

and, turning counterclockwise, pull out the cocking lever, aligning it with the cutout in the pipe

And first pull out the back (gently pulling it counterclockwise), then the spring and all the other giblets.

Step 5 - Donor Preparation for Kit Installation

After disassembly, it is necessary to clean everything from old grease and be sure to go through all the sharp edges of the compressor pipe (inside and out) with a needle file. This is necessary for the normal operation of the strike group. It is also better to remove the sear and process with a file the part that holds the drummer on the cocked. It would be useful to polish the inside of the pipe.

Step 6 - Assembling the PCP

The kit comes as follows:

1. pressure tank
2. protective cover (protects the pressure gauge and filling port)
3. hammer spring preload adjustment device
4. drummer
5. the disc is no longer included due to the many assembly videos on the Internet
6. receiver strap for mounting optics (put on the barrel)
7. figure-of-eight for tank and barrel
8. integrated sound moderator
9. additional sound moderator (optional)
10. filling plug
11. connector for filling type quick (additional option)
12. a set of sealing rubber products (as spare parts and accessories)
13. spare combat valve

First, we install the reservoir, it must be lubricated (in the place where the rubber bands are) with silicone grease, carefully twisting, inserted into the compressor pipe and fixed with two screws (without tightening it all the way). In this case, it is necessary to combine the holes for the bolts and the bypass. Insert the tank very carefully so as not to cut off the sealing gum.

Then the receiver bar and the connecting eight are placed. If the figure eight comes in with force, then it is necessary to unscrew the tightening screw and tighten it from the other side, thereby unclenching the figure eight. The eight after installation should not be fixed, because the bed is attached to it and it will be necessary to combine the holes.

Next, a drummer and a rear plug with a spring are placed, complete with numbers 4 and 3, respectively. When installing the drummer, you must first raise the trigger, and then advance the drummer until it stops. To exclude an accidental shot, since the drummer has a handle (for which it is cocked), you must first unscrew it, insert the drummer into the pipe and screw the handle back.

Then the spring and the adjusting rear plug are inserted. The rear plug is fixed with a screw, which abuts against the section of the compressor pipe.

Next, dress up the sound moderator. There is a screw on the connecting eight that rests against the sound moderator, thereby fixing it on the barrel. This screw should not be tightened with great effort, so as not to spoil the coating.

Step 7 - Fitting the Stock

The most difficult thing in converting the MP-60 (IZH-60) into the PCP version is the fit of the stock. We must be patient, there is nothing technologically complicated in this. If you have a Dremel and similar drills, then everything will take about an hour. If only a saw for metal and files are available, then one evening. The main thing is not to rush.

First, we make an incision in the back of the stock (closer to the trigger), grinder, jigsaw, Dremel or hacksaw. If you make cuts with a metal file, you first need to drill a few holes in order to start the file. Then, in a horizontal plane, we cut out all the stiffeners to the back wall (where the incision was made). On the lower workpiece in the photo, the stiffeners are cut off.

We make cuts in the vertical part, break out the cut plastic with pliers. We grind the rest around the edges with a file.

Next, we begin to expand the bed, removing the excess. It is necessary to constantly try on plastic to metal. It is also necessary to cut down the front part of the bed. Saw off also empirically, trying on iron. It is necessary to achieve such a position of the tank pipe so that it enters the bed approximately along the red line.

You need to use a set of files or needle files of different grain sizes. Where to remove more - the graininess is higher, where to grind - with a needle file. Being engaged in fitting the front of the bed, it is necessary to achieve approximately the same position as in the photo. Next, you should do the fitting of the back, closer to the trigger. And to achieve the coincidence of the holes for attaching the bed to the receiver.

In the back of the bed, it is also necessary to remove excess plastic with a file in order to match the fasteners. The photo removed the plastic in the back.

After fitting on both sides, the connecting eight (connects the tank and the barrel) will rest with its beard on the stock. It is necessary to use a chisel or drill (without entry, flat like a cutter), or use a cutter to make a selection for the figure eight, in the place where the regular hole for attaching the bed is located. In the end, it should turn out something like in the photo.

The front part of the bed is best cut with a crown on a tree, according to a diameter that matches the diameter of the tank. Or attach a template and manually, with a metal file or a jigsaw, make a neat rounding.

The margin of safety of the plastic of these rifles is very large, this kind of trimming of the “extra” will not weaken the stock. It will perform its function. After fitting the bed and matching all the mounting holes, install the butt. PCP assembly is complete.

Do-it-yourself PCP rifle is not difficult at all. If there are problems with accuracy, you can simply cut the plastic so that the mounting holes converge, this will not affect the accuracy of the rifle. Assembly example in the photo.

Converting Crosman pistols to PCP is much easier. There is no need to customize the butt. Just disassemble the gun and assemble already with a set of spare parts from the whale. Moreover, you can easily make a rifle out of a pistol, you just need to buy a long barrel and butt. In addition, there is a large selection of receivers in the airgun market for building a PCP rifle, it is not necessary to buy a whole rifle. The price of the cheapest PCP rifle starts at about 16,000 rubles. The price of a set for alteration is about eight thousand. For the difference, you can buy a cylinder or a high-pressure pump. At the same time, it may still be enough for a new bed (so as not to suffer with the fit). There are many stock options (carbine, bullpup and others) for the PCP variant of the MP-60. The price is very different, one of the options in the photo, the price is about 1500 rubles (for a bed under the MP-60).

After assembly, the kit has optimal settings; when ordering, you can discuss individual settings. The speed of the bullet, at the initial stage (without making changes to the shock group), is changed by increasing or decreasing the spring preload force (the adjusting screw is located in the rear plug).

The process of alteration itself takes a little time, and lovers of tinkering with metal are a pleasure. After all, in fact, you yourself create weapons. It's like moving from compound bows to arquebuses.

Step 8 - Setup Phase

After assembling the pneumat, despite the fact that it has the initial settings (depending on the caliber), more accurate (optimal in terms of air consumption) settings will not be superfluous. This is where registration on the forums from step 2 comes in handy. To measure the speed of a bullet, you will need a chronograph, without this device it will be difficult to set up a rifle, you can borrow it from fellow pneumatics, in every region, without exception, there are lovers of pneumatic weapons. Without speed measurements, you can only choose bullets for your rifle. To do this, it is best to buy small packages of various bullets, not only from different manufacturers, but also different weight and size. And to shoot them, it is better to shoot them in series of 5-7 shots. Each type will have its own accuracy, according to this parameter, bullets are chosen. JSB bullets are considered to be one of the best bullets for accurate shooting, it is better to start with them right away. Buying cheap bullets is not worth it - money down the drain, their weight and geometry differ in almost every bullet. Also, if you record the value of the pressure in the tank after each shot, then you can designate a plateau in air consumption. The PCP rifle has this property, at a certain pressure value, you can make a series of shots with minimal air consumption, this is the so-called "plateau". The Airganer community is very friendly, so you can ask for help fine-tuning in your area. But even without a chronograph and gear adjustment, you can build an accurate and powerful PCP rifle for little money.

Dear readers! The article was published a long time ago and was written for specific videos in the "humor" category. Over time, many creators have chosen to remove their videos from YouTube. Nothing can be done about it, and there is no point in rewriting the article from scratch. So I leave the corresponding inserts in place of the deleted videos. For history, many of the carved patterns of manufacture were quite entertaining.

All owners of pneumatics sooner or later have a desire to tune their pet - to increase power, accuracy, to make a beautiful body kit. The extreme form of such an activity turns into a desire to create something of your own. About how in Rus' they make pneumatic weapons with their own hands and will be discussed further.

The original idea of ​​the article was far from the current content, drawings, diagrams, manuals, the best author's works, etc. were planned.

expected

But after viewing the available information on YouTube, the worldview on this problem has changed, then what happens next can contribute to causing nervous paralysis and the wildest criticism. So for the faint of heart it is better to look for something else. And yes... there will be many videos for you to experience the same thing as me. But first, a small educational program on this Wednesday, so that the hearts of hardened pneumatic conduits do not skip a beat.

Operating principle

A small evolution of weapons from our childhood. Surely each of the readers at least once in his life threw a stone at someone? Surely almost everyone had a couple of dozen slingshots? And who made a crossbow on elastic bands and a clothespin? Has anyone used inflated bottles among propellants? Now, if the memory began to recover, then we continue.

Since home-made pneumatic weapons are not shown today by the high masters of this business, the main principles for creating it are simpler and cheaper. Therefore, the basic principles of operation of such weapons:

• rubber (!!!)-piston pneumatics - based on "syringes" and bank rubber bands
• PCP - no matter how cool it sounds at the base plastic bottle and bicycle pump

It is these two classes that describe the entire the lineup Internet inexpensive self-made pneumatics. There are also options with flammable liquids ... but this is another level.

Caliber

Since for the most part the masters are not familiar with the standards in the field of pneumatics, the bullets for such weapons are very specific. Of the usual, 4.5 mm “shots”, 6 mm airsoft balls were noticed. From the unusual - cardboard, stones, needles for syringes, nails, darts. Here is such a benevolent list. By the way, in terms of power - some samples would be worth checking for muzzle energy.

Material

The material used here is also very different. From the most amateurish undercuts made of wood, to quite tolerable almost jewelry work on metal. But the main class of items used are plumbing fixtures for various purposes. As you watch the next video, you will notice this more than once.

Masters

It remains to be seen who are the same magicians of modern cheap pneumatics. No, gentlemen, these are not plumbers and not even Mario. In the video, the production of samples of light-hardball weapons is mainly done by children ... Apparently, the children of hardball players (since I saw a bottle of "Shot", I really love it). Or airsoft plumbers (judging by plastic trends). Or partially conjugated ... Let's not get carried away with such a terrible "Santo Barbara", but something here is clearly not clean. I propose to start getting acquainted with exemplary videos from around the world.

Rubber piston gun

Here is how to make an air gun. Basically, home-made rifles will be shown next, but it is here that you can see a pistol, and even a RUBBER-piston one. I sincerely hope that the audience of this resource will not need the scheme, we turn on our heads. You can not watch the video, only if for general education or raising your spirits.

PCP Principle

The author of this video will teach how to make a PCP-based air pistol - a bottle, a nipple, a pump, a shutter, a valve ... In general, I attach this video as basic principle organizations in simple form all the following samples.

PCP with metal storage

And in this video, almost the main "terrorist" of this country shows us a new PCP with a metal tank installed. I added the video out of possible interest in the author, in his videos he shows the production of everything and everything, and most importantly, exploding (worse than HOGs). The right control might be interested.

PCP at 4.5mm

And here is another homemade pneumatic weapon based on PCP under 4.5 mm with a reservoir in the form of a tube. The technology is one of the most widespread on the Internet. In the course of hardball players will soon rearm ...

PCP with "strong and a half"

And this is a variant of the previous pneuma, but with the most common poltorashka on board. For some reason, I even liked her more for her originality.

Rise of the Plumbing

And here the scope is wider, you can immediately see the "not childish" fun. It feels like the pipes from my bathroom have been sorted out and gone to war. Shoots a dart-nail. In general, I recommend for viewing, vintar offset. And most importantly, the descent is very entourage.

Airsoft

And here the author offers a do-it-yourself pneumatic pistol for airsoft ... to be more precise, a plumbing machine gun. The video is popular on the net, maybe someone has seen it. On foreign language, but how to assemble pipes, I think, almost everyone will understand here. The most complete manual for collecting a machine gun to destroy a visible and invisible enemy.

Bonus!!!

And finally, just a test video about a home-made pneumatic pistol of an increased changeable caliber - potatoes. Whoever has something like this in their cellars since the winter, I suggest switching to such a projectile. What’s more, it’s easy to make.

That's all. So we learned how to make air weapons in the most difficult and limited conditions. Danila Bagrov, with his plumbing sawn-off, simply does not reach the level. And due to the young age of the main participants, it’s even scary to imagine what will happen to hardball in 10 years. Stay with us, play, shoot, and most importantly, do not keep all this superior nonsense in your head. Have a great weekend everyone!!!