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Do-it-yourself bicycle improvement. Bleeding bicycle hydraulic brakes

It may very well be that you have an old Soviet bicycle lying around on your mezzanine (in the pantry, in the garage, in the country, ...). It may also be that right now you are diligently paying interest on a loan for a new yacht and there is no more extra cash left for a new bike. Or you are purely aesthetically pleasing to the look of bicycles of that era. In this case, you have an amazing opportunity to bring an old bicycle back to life and show off through the streets of your native city, fields and villages of your native country on a unique device!

As a rule, they are engaged in the revival of old bicycles manufactured by KhVZ (Kharkiv Velo Zavod): Sport Highway, Start Highway and Champion Highway, Sputnik, Tourist, Champion, Starton, ... Revival and modernization of other bicycles or bicycles made in Russia, Belarus, Ukraine during perestroika is also possible, but is of less interest due to the worse quality of the "source material". However, the only limitation is your desire.

First of all, since the bike has survived to this day since its release, for example, in the 60s of the 20th century, this already speaks of its strength. Modern bicycles with aluminum parts are lighter, but also wear out much faster than their steel predecessors.

Further, the degree of modernization required depends on the condition of the particular bike and your desire to modernize it. The better the initial state, the less you need to change. In most cases, the wheels are completely changed - the technology does not stand still, and the rims are very subject to wear, they are hardly preserved in good condition. The greatest difficulties are caused by the carriage and shifters.

A properly assembled carriage and connecting rods on the wedges do not loosen up, do not play, no matter what those who do not really use them say on the forums. Straight hands decide everything... But the bottom bracket is one of the most worn out units, so it makes sense to replace it with a modern cartridge one. This is where the difficulty arises - the fact is that at different times different manufacturers made carriages of different diameters with different types of threads. It is not at all a fact that a modern cartridge can be installed without additional effort. It often turns out that it is necessary to cut the thread with a special tap. Sometimes they make special adapters from a larger diameter to a smaller one.

Difficulties with shifters are as follows. This sports bikes or close to them with a curved "ram" road steering wheel. Mountain brake levers and shifters available in almost any store are not suitable. It is most convenient to use the combined road monoblock shifter + brake lever. But they are expensive, and usually they try to update the bike with minimal capital investment. In addition, bikes of those times were supplied with 3-5 stars, and now it is difficult to find less than 7. Hence the need to either unbend the frame, or select shifters to work with a ratchet for 5-6 stars, or come up with original combinations of popular components for miners.

Sometimes, additionally, bolts are welded onto the frame for attaching V-break brakes, bottle holders, mounts for additional switch cables. It's a matter of taste/needs. For example, vibration brakes are easier to find than suitable caliper U-shaped brakes if the relatives have become unusable. If you have the opportunity and don't care too much appearance, then it is easier to weld the mounts than to look for cantilever brakes with long "legs" (the distance from the mount to the rim is more than 5 cm.).

The result of a careful upgrade looks very attractive (the elegance of a thin steel frame and narrow wheels) and rolls on asphalt better than an MTB. Of course, it turns out the bike is not for competition - sports and extreme loads require completely different equipment. As a rule, such bicycles, after restoration, are closest to the class of tourist (touring, "touring") or road racing for training (weight from about 11 kg). However, options for a city bike with a high seating position and a straight handlebar are also not uncommon.

Such upgraded bicycles are often referred to as "crocodiles". Why is it so difficult to say. Maybe the name came from the fact that HVZ bicycles popular for modernization were originally green. Or the first restored ones were so scary... It is quite plausible that this is how FIDO called any old-school bike modified by the owner to something unique (now it would be called custom bike), later the name spread to all modernized bikes.

It may seem that the restoration of old bicycles is exclusively domestic entertainment. Still, KhVZ ... but, as you saw in a couple of links above, English-speaking countries are also engaged in the resuscitation of old bicycles and custom-finishing.

In conclusion, a few examples of "crocodiles" with a description of the process of their modernization.

Very detailed description the process of upgrading this bike from a professionally engaged workshop: velomastera.ru

Description of modernization and its discussion on the forum.

Discussion.

A trail bike is a versatile mountain bike with full suspension (both front and rear). rear wheel equipped with shock absorbers). It was invented not for sports, but for riding for fun in any off-road conditions. The Stumpjumper has been produced by Specialized since 1981 and is considered one of the best in its class. Rocky descent, rooted forest path, mountain serpentine, steep climb - everywhere the trail bike feels like a fish in water. More precisely, almost everywhere. Until recently, it was water, mud, and slush that forced us to slow down. Until the 6Fattie appeared: its tires (and hence the contact patch) are one and a half times wider than a regular mountain bike (76.2 mm), which made this bike almost omnivorous.

Do you want better? The 6Fattie has an internal rim width of 30mm, but Specialized recently showed 38mm carbon rims. You can put even wider tires on them, with which the bike will confidently ride even on a snowy field.

2. Frame

To make the bike light yet strong, Specialized uses a carbon frame to which an aluminum-silicon-copper-magnesium-vanadium-zinc alloy triangle is attached to the rear. Bicycle weight - 14 kg.

Do you want better? Scientists from Aerospace Boeing have developed a material that can replace carbon fiber - a microscopic mesh of nickel wires, each of which is 1000 times thinner than a human hair. It is stronger than carbon and lighter than foam. So far, bike manufacturers are planning to test the new product on professional racing models.

3. Switches

For better geometric cross-country ability, 6Fattie has one sprocket in front and 11 in the back. All wiring is routed inside the frame.

Do you want better? SRAM Red eTap electronic shifters save the bike from unnecessary wires, since the link between the shifters on the handlebars and the switches on the sprockets is wireless.

4. Shock absorber

The 6Fattie front fork has 150mm of travel and three stiffness adjustments. move rear suspension- 135 mm.

Do you want better? Magura eLECT is an electronic front fork adjustment system equipped with an accelerometer and a Bluetooth module. It automatically changes the stiffness of the shock absorber depending on where and how you are currently riding. The system also knows how to determine the moment of the jump in order to make the landing as soft as possible. It takes a few milliseconds to reconfigure, but there is also a manual mode - the wireless remote is mounted on the steering wheel.

5. Glove box

For several years, Specialized has struggled to make a compartment for things inside the bike frame without compromising the rigidity of the structure. The result is the SWAT Door system, available in carbon models. The glove compartment door is hidden under the bottle holder and not only a set of tools, but also a spare wheel and a pump fit inside.

Why bleed the brakes. This question does not even arise in the head if everything is in order with the brake. But as soon as the thought “something is wrong” appears, the move is too small, or it no longer catches like five years ago. The service will recommend you to bleed the brake or bring it in for diagnostics, or the especially gifted ones will say “well, dude, this is normal for such a brake, take my rolled one a couple of times, not a brake, but a stop valve! I'll give you half the price." Because of what the brake does not start to work as it should or I would like to write about it and how to fix it here too.

Zero when assembling a bike, if it is new or when buying a new brake, sometimes you are lucky and sometimes not, the brake is poorly pumped, and sometimes they stupidly spill brake fluid on the pads or on the rotor. It is also not unimportant when you buy a new rotor, brake, in short, when you start using a new brake KNOW new rotors are treated with a special oily compound, which is erased during intensive braking in a couple of days (this is a normal process, do not be alarmed) this is the process of rolling in the brakes, the protective one is erased a layer of pads, rotors, paint on the handles, everything is recycled, comes into normal working shape. After a month, whoever rides should once again adjust the brakes, pump if not lazy, and then it will be a pleasure to slow down!
First this is the air, brake system too much of it has accumulated and with the help of additional brake fluid and a run through the system, we drive it out of there. Due to the air in the system, we have to apply more force for braking and you need to push the handles almost to the very grips.
Second over the years, the brake fluid in the system has become less than expected. Leaked out and/or dried up, squeezed out excess air.
Third debris appeared in the system that interferes with the normal circulation of the brake fluid through the veins. Large dust got in, or they fell and the brake lever was bent and dirt got in. All this leads to an increase in the stroke of the handle or not the normal operation of the entire system. The pumping process itself is quite simple. They untwisted the caliper, inserted the hose, untwisted the machine at the bottom, inserted the hose, squeezed it back and forth a couple of times, expelled the air, adjusted the handles to the stroke that is convenient for you, wiped the snot and voila, everything is ready. On the one hand, it is a very difficult task, but on the other hand, there is nothing to be afraid of. The main thing is to do everything clearly.




The principle of pumping for all brakes is approximately the same. I have been using Avid for many years. From model to model in the pumping system, they do not surprise me in any way. Everything is extremely simple and clear. There are available rem. kits and systems for pumping. Bleeding systems can be replaced with improvised means, syringes, needles, and what is not used to bleed the brakes. As a rule, improvised means the first time, sometimes even the second time, do not lead to anything good, flooded pads, rotors, the whole bike in brakes, all hands with oil, a lot of wasted time, spoiled mood and later you ask yourself the question “damn what do that now?!!!" Bleeding one brake costs an average of 500 rubles. a piece. The cost of the system for pumping is about 1000 rubles. it has everything you need to successfully bleed the brakes, syringes, nozzles, adapters, clamps and brake fluid. In the set, all elements are reusable, so it makes sense to invest once and buy a normal set with which you will successfully pump more than one brake. The most important thing in the brake is the absence of air in the entire system and the cleanliness of the brake fluid. The stroke of the handle will also depend on the amount of brake fluid, someone likes a bigger stroke, someone likes it to grab instantly. On some brakes, the stroke of the handle can be adjusted mechanically, simply tighten the valve with a hexagon and thereby reduce or increase the stroke. But you won’t be able to do this indefinitely; in the end, you still have to add liquid or drive air out of the system. It is worth knowing that an excessive amount of fluid in the system is also fraught, if at some point in braking you feel the urge to hold the brake tightly and sharply, that is, it is possible to pull out the hose due to increased pressure (therefore, pro-riders use hoses with a reinforced brake tube winding, it prevents the tube from expanding, so also gives additional rigidity and such hoses are more difficult to break)

For pumping we need


Avid Bleed Kit

the kit comes with a bottle of brake fluid DOT 5 of this volume is enough to bleed the brake 2-4 times. I recommend draining the old fluid because it is dirty (and even the color is very different from what you will fill in) if we are talking about rolled brakes, if we are pumping new brakes, then draining is at your discretion. If the color is very different and does not smell the same, then it is better to drain. Who knows what was poured there before you. Also stock up on a rag or napkins and suddenly sneeze on the rotor.

Fix the handle in a comfortable position for you, it is better that the barrel with the brake fluid is parallel to the surface (this will allow the brake fluid to stay where it is supposed to be). If you decide to do the pumping on the assembled bike, then I recommend wrapping the steering wheel under the side with a rag (anything can happen). They unscrewed the screw with a special petal wrench, it immediately smells like a brake, you can’t drink it, you can breathe, but don’t abuse it.

Dial a little more than half of the brake fluid, shake the syringe, tap it with your limbs, so that there are no bubbles left. Squeeze out the air until only brake fluid remains in the syringe. Done, well done!

Screw the syringe with the tube into the brake lever. Do this very carefully, try not to shake your hands and keep your mind clear in order to avoid a fleeting spill of liquid. Half way done

Next, we work with bottom. We disassemble the machine, take out the pads (who is not lazy and who is not a coward) if the liquid gets on the pads, then you will not soon forget this day. If you are confident in your mighty powers, then feel free to insert a plug between the pads. Again, protect yourself by wrapping high-risk areas with napkins and / or a rag. I know from my bitter experience that a rag is never superfluous. Looking ahead a little, I’ll say that when you insert a plug between the pads, you thereby expand the calipers and reduce the amount of free space in the barrels that could be filled with a brake. A small nuance, if the rotor is old, then it is a little worn out for such a rotor, you can fill in a little more brake fluid, if the rotor is brand new, then it will be decently wider than what it will become in a month (remember, we know this and we are not surprised after a month that the handle began to walk a little more ) It is ideal to bleed the brake already on lapped, run-in brakes, this also applies to the pads. Let's go further, insert the plug, the pads are unclenched (or maybe you were not too lazy and pulled out the pads)

We do the procedure that we did above, draw liquid into the syringe, knock knock on it, expel the air, let the air go. They got the air out just fine.

Next, we insert the syringe into the machine, everything is the same as we did with the pen. We don’t forget about the rag, we don’t get nervous, we do everything carefully. Whoops dripped on the car it doesn't matter because we have a rag! Do not be afraid to get your hands dirty, not acid will not burn through, but if it gets on the floor, for example, on a laminate, if you do not immediately erase it, then the greasy stain will remain for centuries. I'll tell you one secret. Our main task is to get rid of air in the entire system. It is not difficult to drive him out of the machines, but he is still hiding in the hydraulic line itself, and the bubbles also cling to the edges of the metal protrusions. Living bitches. We grab any key and start tapping the entire system without fanaticism. They sounded carefully. There is one more nuance, this is the plane in which the hydraulic line is located. If vertically as it should be, the handle is at the top, the machine with pads is at the bottom. It is better to start pumping from the bottom up solely for the convenience of oxygen travel! If you swing from top to bottom, then the case may be delayed and pumping may not be ideal.

Next came the process of running tormozuhi throughout the system. From below they were blown with a syringe, at the top they were sucked. So they did it five times, it’s unforgettable to knock on the hydraulic line. We press the syringe smoothly, if we feel that it is not flowing or it is going sooooo tight, or in general you are pumping in and it does not come out of the syringe. That means somewhere they pulled it, or maybe the hydra was killed or transferred.



We pay attention to the upper syringe, into which BUBBLES should enter along with the brake fluid, they should become less and less and this will be an indicator that you pumped the hydra normally. Then you can smoothly press the handle a couple of three times, so to speak, let the system itself shake the brakes so that the calipers open and everything falls into place. Next, the secret, if we want the brakes to be staked and the handle to go in a millimeter step or even less, we pull out the plug from the pads, press the handle on top and watch the pads! they converge, but do not overdo it otherwise you will simply not stupidly fit the rotor. We squeeze the syringe as much as necessary, you can do this move with installed wheel thereby checking how much the pads converge and rest against the rotor. We made the minimum clearance that your curved rotor can only allow you to, or maybe not a curve (by the way, this is important if the rotor is slightly bent, just a little bit, an annoying scratching sound of the rotor will be heard during rotation). I also warn you too much brake fluid is also bad, you need to find a middle ground with which it will be convenient for you to work. It is a pity that manufacturers do not really write how many cubes should be in the hydraulic line and the entire system. Also, with increased pressure in the entire system, there is a possibility that your hydra will be torn out by a root or a branch inopportunely appearing from around the turn, and if the hydra had not been pumped, the hydra might have been shock-absorbed and would not have vomited it (but this is in theory) so don’t pump too much . Personally, I pump my hydra to the maximum allowable distance of the pads from the rotor, I love it when there is almost no movement in the handles and it catches from half a millimeter.

Hurray hurray, everything worked out, the snot was wiped off, we don’t roar, everything was not so scary.
Smooth road and fair wind!
Article prepared by Bankay78

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    Specialized Turbo I respect the company Specialized, everything they do is done with quality and soul. And Turbo is no exception. In general, the EBike trend makes me sincerely happy just around the corner when electric bikes will replace cars, the roads will be smooth and heated so that you can ride a bike in winter, solar-powered electric parking with the ability to charge a bike will be everywhere. Everything should be improved, high technologies should be integrated in everything, but they forgot about the bike and Specialized decided to fix this and set the trend for high-quality electric bikes. Enough with us poor Auchan electric bikes with insane weight, long charging, fragile design, we want really cool bikes! The bike was announced at Bike Expo 2012, but since there was no opportunity to visit it, he was content with muddy photos and bright remarks from managers from Specialized. In general, to be honest, he did not make a big impression on me, there was no description ...

    Ryder's Prayer

    Ryder's Prayer Actually, I will try to summarize everything that I came across on the Internet, a lot of things are written, a lot is not clear, a lot of superfluous, few pictures, somewhere they are not at all, I am completely silent about the video, and the thing is very useful for pumping your new hobby. The main thing with which I agree and it was visible in all the topics, articles that I read is SET, a very useful thing, one might even say irreplaceable, since in Russia there are no professional schools teaching competent mountain bike riding, everyone learns as best they can and to understand about SET they come late and sometimes they don’t come at all and abandon attempts to learn how to jump in the bud. You must always remember the mood, take it as a habit. Before each jump, takeoff or drop, new trick or already memorized to muscle memory, you need to remember about it. A positive attitude for success, confidence that the trick will work out, the landing will be normal, the bike will withstand the impact, visualize, scroll through everything that you collect in your head ...

    Leogang Bike Park

    Leogang Bike Park The wonderful Leogang Bike Park is located in Austria. Basically, he is ski resort and its main profit is in winter season, but it so happened that the resort became very popular and they decided to operate it in the summer. Since the mid-90s, the popularity of the park has become so great that the number of visitors in summer is not inferior to the popularity of the park in winter. The popularity of the park positive reviews visitors are absolutely justified and deserved. About all the benefits of the park in order. Austria is a large village Austria is a very neat country, with small houses, gardens, of incomparably high quality railways which rush over them at a speed of 200 km / h, delicious schnapps, apfelstrudel and Wiener schnitzel. Wonderful nature, everything is like from a picture, you start to wonder at the surrounding beauty from the first minutes of your arrival. The weather in Austria is variable, as there are many mountains around, the forecast is very constant, in the morning the sun, in the evening the rain is clear and...

    The quality to which we were accustomed Elmoto from Germany!

    Elmoto The idea of ​​electric modern bicycles and I decided to dig, that's what I dug up, I present it for general viewing. Somewhere it is called an electric bike, someone calls it an electric motorcycle after all. What you call it is up to you. Behind the hot name is not El'gringo the Spaniard or El'macho the Spaniard, but a stern and prudent burgher from Stuttgart, or rather a promising team of ID-Bike GmbH, consisting of experienced electrical engineers, cybernetics, and industrial designers. Elmoto was born in pain for 2 years at the end of 2009 at the beginning summer season In 2010, it was introduced to the vastness of Swabia. Elmoto is the first sign of the ID-Bike GmbH team of green bicycles with the highest euro standard of materials from which this marvel of technology was assembled. It is curious that to drive it in Germany they will require a license! let Elmoto's burghers bring us our rights to such electric bicycles for a long time...

    No-Footer No-Footer is a kind of trick by feeling, in the air it is most difficult to part with your feet, since this is your only support on the bike, the absence of hands does not feel as much as the absence of legs and in landing it is very important for your balls that you put your feet exactly on pedals, not missed them...they will appreciate it. Like one-footers, which you should learn how to do first, no-footers can be combined with just about any trick. Remember that starting with less will help you get better at controlling the trick. As with one-footers, speed is not a critical factor. Just drive up to the springboard at normal speed. Almost reaching the peak point, throw both legs out to the sides. The trick of this trick is to prevent your pedals from going out of horizontal position. Tighten them and/or the chain. Before taking both feet off the pedals, make sure they do not spin. As with the one-footer, keep your feet as horizontal as you like. But, unlike the one-foote...

    Malsky Bicycle Festival

    The Malski Bicycle Festival will be held from 6 to 7 August 2011. The following events are planned within its framework: 1. Bicycle race "Malskaya forest belt" - cross-country sprint race over rough terrain in a beautiful forest. 5 km lap for men and 3.1 km lap for fine sex and children 2. Evening live music concert. 3. Bicycle race "Trail Race II" - downhill on the extreme single track "black slope" of the Malskaya Valley. 4. demonstration performances by bike trial. 5. Demonstration performances of extreme sportsmen on a large springboard. 6. A crossbow shooting range, a volleyball court and a trampoline will help you have a good time between the starts of races and performances. People ride them in order to touch history, become part of something big, immerse themselves in the atmosphere of celebration, friendship and forget about everything for a few days. One of these events was the VYBORG Velotrial outdoor festival. Having started its history on the magical date 07/07/07, it has turned from a simple competition into the largest bicycle festival...

    Nothing Nothing is quite a complicated trick, you have to force yourself to let go of the bike completely in the air and fly a couple of meters without forgetting to catch the bike and land normally. This trick is done on springboards that are thrown high, not long. You need to be able to do a good know-foot and preferably a know-hand. As soon as you feel that you are at the maximum height, first do a know foot, then simultaneously release your hands, then put your hands first, then your legs. Control your bike, don't let it go far to you, otherwise you won't reach the steering wheel. Well, if the bike flies further than you, you just fall separately, and if it falls next to you, then you can land on it.

    No Foot Can-Can Quite a difficult trick and just as spectacular. This trick should be able to do every derter. In all dirt competitions, almost everyone does this trick. You accelerate at high speed and take off until the moment when you reach full height, simultaneously remove your legs from the pedals and push them towards you, and then when you are already at maximum height, throw them to the left while you should have bent your arms, but now you should unbend. It turns out that the bike will turn a little to the right, then pull it back towards you and put your feet on the pedals and land softly and confidently.

    The Most Invisible of the Invisible Stealth Electric Bikes

    Stealth Electric Bikes So it's the turn of the Stealth electric bike from Australia's fun city of Melbourne. The web is full of hacks simple bikes for electric cypeds, all of them, as it were, are made on their knees and so far they do not reach mass production. We also have a couple of successful aggressive electric bikes in our country, but they also still leave much to be desired and are made of whatever comes to hand, although they weigh less than our guest, but light weight is not always a plus for such downhill monsters. But more about everything. The guys from Melbourne rode normal bikes as normal Riders eventually got rich and switched to cross bikes and at some point set out to combine a mountain bike with a cross bike, make it noiseless and environmentally friendly in operation Electric Downhill Bike and the idea of ​​the future Stealth was born a. What is interesting about the Invisible Man: They collect it so far in two complete sets ...

Nowadays, an increasingly popular mode of transport is great. Much has been said about its health benefits, and it is also a full-fledged vehicle in the city. The bicycle is convenient, compact and does not require such financial investments as a personal car.

In the old Soviet times, city bikes were almost the only option for transportation on two wheels. Now great a dime a dozen, for every taste and color. Single-speed "bugs", similar to Soviet models, are still not the same. Is there a Soviet classic left now? Yes full! And if an old model of the USSR suddenly stands idle in the garage, then it’s worth doing the modernization of the bike with your own hands.

Which is better: to restore an old bike or buy a new one?

It is up to everyone to decide how expedient it is to put the old model in order on their own. And here it depends more not on the fact that the bike has lived for a good three decades (Soviet frames will roll for more than one generation), but on the scope of use in the future. So, for example, it is not worth modernizing the Soviet classics for those who:

  • prefers to ride on rough terrain;
  • loves speed, lightness and off-road;
  • does not want to bother with the selection of new parts.

And of course, if the frame has serious damage, then it will be much safer to scrap it.

For fast and comfortable trips around the city, the modernization of a simple one is justified. The work will require financial and time costs - you will have to change the entire canopy, except for the fork and frame, and work on the appearance.

The appearance of the bike determines the color of the frame and wheels. Additionally, you can install colored tires, accessories and do light.

Before painting the frame, we completely disassemble the bike. The work consists of the following steps:

  1. Remove old paint with solvent.
  2. Clean up rust - there can be a lot of it on an abandoned Soviet bike.
  3. Degrease all surfaces.
  4. Apply a primer in several layers, allow to dry.
  5. From a can, apply paint to primed surfaces in several thin layers.
  6. Dry in a ventilated and warm room. We observe accuracy and do not paint near fire and hot objects.

For aesthetic reasons, we reduce the appearance of insects in the room to zero - the flies frozen in the paint will only spoil the view. Fork and frame are painted separately. Drawings on the frame are made using vinyl stickers or stencils.

Wheel rims are painted in the same way. True, here it is necessary to protect the knitting needles and bushings from getting paint - wrap them with plastic wrap.

Painted wheel rims

Additional canopies, or how you can diversify the bike:

  • bright grips;
  • rearview mirror;
  • headlight and taillight;
  • analog speedometer, bike computer;
  • bag for tools (in the Soviet style);
  • new fenders and mudguards;
  • flask and bottle holder;
  • step.

All this is widely available in bike shops.

Light tuning will give the bike originality in the dark. In addition to standard lights, you can make the bike even more noticeable. Most importantly, it's all very easy to do it yourself. So:

  • luminous caps on nipples - the simplest and most inexpensive solution, we buy several sets and change them from time to time;
  • LED strips on wheels and frame;
  • disk animators - exhibitions on wheel spokes; in motion they play with light patterns;
  • Christmas tree garland powered by batteries.


Nipple caps often have many glow modes

These simple ways you can distinguish your bike among similar ones, as well as ensure your safety on the roads.

The technical side of modernization

As a starting material, let's take an old bicycle "Ural" and a new-fashioned high-speed "Tourist" in Soviet times. Upgrading a single speed model is easier, there is no need to fiddle with derailleurs and shifters. However, if desired, a high-speed bike can also be adjusted to a modern way, the main thing is desire.

So, to modernize the old bike from the times of the USSR, you will need:

  • replace the bottom bracket and cranks with pedals;
  • sort out the fork, replace the steering wheel;
  • put new wheels;
  • improve the braking system;
  • change seat.

Additionally, for a high-speed model, pick up shifters and install a new gear shift system.

The carriage is the most important and the first node that should be changed. It is impossible to find identical spare parts in our time, so you will have to think about how to put the simplest and most affordable cartridge (closed) carriage.


Closed bottom bracket for square connecting rods

To install the front system you will need:

  • remake the thread or install special adapters for a smaller diameter;
  • install the carriage and new connecting rods “under the square” with special pullers;
  • For speed bike we purchase connecting rods with a three-star system;
  • install new pedals.

Fork overhaul is the second most important task after replacing the bottom bracket. Washers and bearings may need to be replaced. In any case, a bulkhead is necessary at least for simple lubrication of parts. First you need to do it right It is not necessary to change the steering wheel, unless it is rusted or there is no desire to put a steering wheel of a different design. New steering wheels of the Soviet standard are now harder to find, you will have to wander around the shops where single-speed road builders and spare parts for them are sold.

The next step is to update the bike for v-brake. This is by far the most common type of brake on the market, as opposed to caliper u-brakes - you won't find them by fire during the day. Yes, and the efficiency of vectors will be higher. For installation on a Ural bicycle, special seats will need to be welded onto the fork. "Tourist" on its frame provides v-brake.

Wheel replacement. We choose double rims, so they will last a long time and you will not have to mess around with eights so often (unlike single ones). What to look for: 28-inch wheels with double rims. For the Urals, we choose a wheel with a brake hub. If there is none, you will have to install the hub separately or put a regular wheel under the v-brake. And before that, weld the seats on the rear feathers.

For a speed bike, you will have to change both the switches and the shifters. It is not difficult to do all this with your own hands, it is more important to correctly match them to each other: a 7-speed shifter must match a 7-star ratchet. By the way, it is advisable to put ratchets on Soviet bikes, although you can spend money on more expensive cassettes.

Conclusion

Upgrading a Soviet bicycle to a modern one is easy. To do this, you will need to invest in money and take the time to find the right parts with their installation, everything you need to paint the frame and fork and buy accessories. Soviet bicycle of our days will fulfill its intended purpose and delight others for a long time to come.

In the life of any bicycle lover, sooner or later there is a desire to improve something in his horse. It comes imperceptibly, quickly flares up and turns into a mania that haunts you. I myself went through this, gradually learned to fight, but exacerbations periodically occur :)

In general, there are several reasons for the appearance of itching to improve the bike. This may be the poor performance of individual nodes from wear or poor tuning - then your itch is justified as much as possible and you should not be ashamed of it. It may be a desire to make cycling easier for yourself. It may be an innate desire to redo something and allegedly improve it (the owners of tuned kopecks - for example) in order to express themselves. Fighting the desire to improve the bike becomes easier with experience - when you ride different models, different types bicycles, you will begin to feel the influence of certain mechanisms on the feeling of riding, you will understand the effect of changes.

But now you have a meter-long alloy steel awl sticking out in your ass, which haunts you - you have some amount of money, they burn your hands, and your faithful iron horse ceases to please you. “Improve yourself first!” - the most correct and most useless advice in this situation, something like advice to stop eating sweets or go to bed early. Training, improving results bit by bit in hard work is not our way, we need results now. If you bought a bike to get excited, then all the more so - a new stray on your bike will definitely give you a rush. Have a good mood, so why not?

Important! If your bike does not fit you, then discard all the improvements, and quickly change the bike to another one with the correct size. Riding a bike “not for you” is a great harm to health and no improvement will fix it.

Where to start and what is the easiest way to feel the changes from the upgrade? The list of improvements is subjective, from most useful to least on my internal scale of importance.

Contact pedals

This is something that will greatly change your riding style, increase the efficiency of pedaling, etc. It may also make you younger, more beautiful, but this is not certain.

funny contact pedals the fact is that when you put them on and start riding, there is no improvement in sensations, and at first you generally experience discomfort and fear of falling. Well, that is, if you have made contacts for yourself and nothing has changed, then you will surely experience disappointment - this is the norm. It is worth driving for a couple of months and sitting on ordinary toptals - you will immediately understand how much it sucks.

If you have Mountain bike, then MTB contacts are suitable for you, for road bikes there are road ones. Each type of pedal comes with its own set of shoes, which usually costs 3-4 times more than the pedal set itself. In general, get ready that this event will not be cheap.

If you have both a mountain bike and a road bike, it will be quite convenient to put MTB contacts on both. Sure, true road fetishists will give you scornful looks, but you don't have to buy a second set of shoes.

Tires

That's right, not the wheels, but the tires are in my second place. Swapping out your favorite mountain bike's toothy tire for something more civilized (semi-slick or even slick) will significantly reduce rolling resistance, and thus your pedaling effort. In addition, non-aggressive rubber weighs much less.

When I put a Continental Speed ​​King (very light and very bald tires) on my niner, I stopped recognizing my bike. Much less noise, much easier to ride.

Here, of course, it is worth understanding that off-road driving on such tires should be much more accurate, but how often do you actually drive off-road? If you still want more confidence - look towards semi-slicks, for example, Schwalbe Hurricane. They will allow you to drive fast on asphalt and feel confident enough off-road.

If you like to overcome impassable roads, downhill and do other crazy things, then you hardly need to read this article - you need a bike of a completely different level and with a different philosophy.

Fork

If you bought a mountain bike, as all normal people in this country do :), then for sure you will have some kind of shit in the form suspension fork. Bikes under $700 rarely get anything decent. This imitation fork tends to weigh a lot and perform poorly.

The purpose of the fork is not to make cycling more comfortable, but to provide better grip on a rough road. This is me to the fact that you do not need to look for a good comfort and softness fork.

Of the good and inexpensive forks, I can recommend the Rockshox XC32 in the oil-air version. This is a low maintenance entry level fork with single chamber, lockout and rebound adjustment. Having installed an air fork, get ready immediately for the fact that the cost of your MOT will increase - such forks require more careful maintenance, and it costs a little more.

It's hard to believe that an air fork would make a big difference in the way you ride, especially if you've ridden a cheap rubber band. But trust me, it's worth it.

Attention! When buying a fork, make sure that it has a mount for your brakes - there are forks for v-breaks, there are disc brakes. The former are harder to find, but not impossible.

After driving a couple of hundred kilometers on at least a basic air fork, you will understand how cool it is.

Switching speeds

A very grateful topic for those who like to lighten their bike. My opinion - change only when your current switching system can no longer cope even after tuning. A well-functioning shifter is a pleasure to ride, but there's no point in shelling out for a super-expensive system unless you're a professional athlete.

Seat

During a long ride, your butt suffers a lot. If your seat looks like your grandmother's favorite sofa, then you create a lot of problems for yourself. Find a good narrow seat and put it on your bike. With a seemingly less comfortable geometry, you will be much less tired.

Afterword

Best the enemy of the good. Keep this in mind and spend your money on something good and useful, like beer and seeds. But if beer and seeds don’t climb anymore, then you can spend money on a bike :) You don’t need to regret the money spent later - a whole industry of smart people is working to make your ride more comfortable, and you just helped them in this way.



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