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When a property owner decides to change plumbing, he will not be hindered by knowing how to properly install a toilet in a private house or apartment. The work of dismantling and installing a new plumbing fixture requires special responsibility, since the slightest omission can lead to big troubles - leaks and, as a result, flooding of one's own home and neighbors' apartments.

What you need to know when buying a toilet

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a plumbing fixture are not only its model, brand and color, but also the dimensions (for more details: "What are the sizes of the toilet bowl - standard dimensions, options"). It is necessary to measure the distance from the sewer drain to the door to the toilet room before buying a toilet, and the result must be divided by 2. The result will be
the maximum size of the device that can be installed in this room.

The color and shape of the toilet bowl is chosen in accordance with the interior solution of the toilet room, it should match the design to the maximum. When purchasing plumbing, be sure to check its integrity and completeness. The existing mechanisms in it should work easily, without making creaking sounds.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

When the toilet is properly installed with your own hands, use the following materials and tools:

perforator or impact drill;
marker or pencil;
wrench;
drills (drills) for metal by 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the diameter of the dowels with which the device will be attached to the floor;
hammer;
drills for tiles, if the flooring is finished with it;
spanners;
silicate sealant;
Phillips screwdrivers;
masking tape;
rubber cuff measuring 123x100 millimeters (required when attaching the toilet bowl to a cast-iron socket);
flexible water supply (when replacing the old one);
cuff - depending on the toilet, a straight, flexible or eccentric is selected;
kit for fastening the plumbing fixture to the base. See also: "Do-it-yourself toilet installation - detailed instructions for different types of toilet bowls".

Toilet installation rules

The fastest and in a simple way to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe is considered to be the use of a corrugated cuff. But at the same time, it is not possible to place the device as close as possible to the pipe socket. You need to know how to put corrugation on the toiletso that everything works without leaks. This circumstance is important when the toilet room is small.

When the toilet outlet and the sewer socket are located on the same axis, experts recommend using a straight cuff, but if on different axes, an eccentric cuff, such as in the photo.

The rules for installing a toilet bowl suggest that when purchasing a flexible water supply, its length is taken into account, which should be equal to the distance from the connection point of the filling mechanism to the pipeline with cold water. To this value add 15-20 centimeters.

It is necessary to pay attention to the thread diameter (1/2 or 3/8 inch) and the type of connection (external/internal). Also, do not forget about buying a fum tape. In the process of dismantling the toilet, the remaining water may pour out of it, so the presence of a floor cloth will not be superfluous.

Technology and stages of installation of the toilet

The toilet installation procedure includes the work of dismantling the old plumbing fixture. Before that, turn off the water and disconnect the flexible hose. Then, without fail, the water is drained from the device and the drain tank is disconnected. If necessary, you can use a hammer if the plumbing fixture is no longer useful. In this case, you need to be careful with the fragments, as they can get into the sewer pipe and cause a blockage.

After removing the water from the bowl, they begin to clean the socket of the cast-iron sewer. Rust, remnants of old sealant, dirt are removed from it. Then the transition cuff (123x110 mm) is lubricated with sealant and placed in a cast-iron socket.

In the event that, after dismantling the old appliance, a wooden board is visible under it, it is removed, and the resulting cavity is filled with cement mortar, which is leveled with a spatula relative to the floor level and allowed to dry for 20-30 minutes.

To mark holes for attaching plumbing to the floor with dowels, they take the device and the eccentric cuff and temporarily place it in the place where it will be located. Further, the toilet installation technology provides for marking the holes with a marker or pencil. When the holes are at an angle, then you need to drill them at an angle, and then insert dowels of the appropriate size into them.

Install the fittings of the drain tank, as they interpret the rules for installing the toilet bowl and the instructions (it must be included in the kit). Plastic nuts should be tightened by hand and very carefully so as not to damage the gasket and not overtighten the dowel. It is necessary that the moving elements of the valve mechanism do not come into contact with the walls of the tank. The gasket is treated with a sealant.

The eccentric cuff is inserted into the adapter cuff with the petal part and fixed to the sealant in the cast-iron socket. The outlet of the bowl is inserted to the very base into the eccentric cuff, having previously treated it with a sealant. The fastenings of the holes must match, for which the cuff should be rotated carefully and evenly. Further, the main thing is not to overtighten the bowl to the floor, using screws and plastic washers.

It will help to properly mount the plumbing installation diagram of the toilet. In the next step, the bowl is placed on the drain tank. But before that, the gasket is attached to the bowl with a sealant. The tank is carefully fixed, preventing the gasket from moving.

Then the screws are evenly tightened, the lid, the seat, the flush mechanism, and the plumbing to the toilet are installed in the correct sequence. Produce a test flush, if necessary, adjust the mechanism.

If everything is done in accordance with the instructions, there can be no leaks.

Sometimes you need to install the toilet yourself. Not everyone knows how to do it right and what to pay attention to. Get professional advice.

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Introduction

"How to install a toilet with your own hands?" - this is the question every owner of a new apartment or house asks. - an integral part of any apartment or house. He, like a bathroom, a sink, requires connection to the water supply, sewerage, city or own, needs complete isolation of internal water. For its full operation, it is required to adjust the flush handles, a permanent set of the tank, check the entire structure for cracks, and much more. At first glance it seems hard work, but it will still be better if you do it yourself. So, in the event of a breakdown, you will quickly orient yourself and eliminate the leak. If the work is done by the masters, you will have problems.

Installing the drain mechanism

Before buying a toilet

Before buying, you need to check the dimensions of the product and correlate them with the dimensions of the toilet. It is worth considering all the nuances of the flooring, make sure the quality and reliability of the device. If you have any prejudices about toilets, put it out of your mind, it's just a piece of stone. For now.

Stage 1. Installing the drain mechanism

The toilet bowl in its original form is a bowl and, inside of which there is a shut-off pipe and other details. To do a complete do-it-yourself toilet installation, you need to assemble them together so that everything is airtight. This is done by tightening many nuts, screws, fasteners.

First you need to insert the drain mechanism - it comes already assembled - into the single large hole in the bottom of the tank, then secure it with a nut or two, depending on the design of the tank. The nut is tightened either by hand and with your own tools, or with a special wrench included in the set. Be careful not to damage the pipe, otherwise it will cause permanent problems later. For proper insulation, rubber gaskets are installed at any connection. In this case, put it in the inside of the tank, but do not twist anything, or it will break.

Bowl and tank connection

Stage 2. Connecting the bowl and toilet bowl

To attach the tank to the toilet bowl, you will first need to put a rubber seal on the drain mechanism. This is done for security and tighter isolation. Now carefully place the tank on the bowl, focusing on the shaped features and holes for the nuts. Make sure that both parts are perfectly aligned so that there are not even small holes or other errors. Do-it-yourself toilet installation will be quick and easy if you carefully check every step.

Now we fix the tank on the bottom of the toilet, for this, count the number of holes for the nuts and take metal washers, studs, cone gaskets and nuts in just that amount. This will avoid skipping holes and secure the device as much as possible. For each of them, you must first connect the stud to the washer, then put a conical rubber gasket on top and install this design on the hole. Carefully insert the nut and screw in. Remember, you can’t completely tighten the nuts at once, first fill all the holes and turn evenly, that is, first we turn each screw to half, then tighter and to the end. It is optimal to fasten everything in three approaches, you should not try to save time and rush.

Autonomous toilet

Types of tanks

How to install a toilet bowl with your own hands if you have a non-standard type of tank? Let's figure it out. Tanks are of three types:

Standard, attached to the bowl;
Autonomous, located above the bowl, suspended from the wall;
Built-in, found in hanging toilets;

The difference is the location of the tank, the method of draining, fastening. In fact, the technologies are quite close, but the installation is still slightly different.

Installation of an autonomous tank

The self-contained tank is attached to the wall using bolts, nuts, or in another way that the manufacturer suggests. The tank is attached to the toilet with a drain pipe. This type of toilet is not very convenient, it is used in public places, but if you use it, then the installation procedure is as follows: first we attach the drain pipe to the toilet without attaching it to the tank. We mark the lower attachment point. We twist the nut or bolts on the connection of the pipe with the bowl. After that, calculate the height of the tank mount and mark it with a marker. Use the level to set the ideal position of the pipe and fix it to the wall, after checking the height. We connect the tank and the pipe in the same way as with the bowl, then fasten both elements to the wall using brackets and dowels. Installation completed. After the toilet is fully installed, check the performance of your system, inspect it for leaks.

Built-in toilet

Installation of a tank built into the wall

The next type of toilet bowl is, which, unlike the previous one, has a completely different mounting technology. Here the main element is the tank, not the bowl, it is closed with wall panels, tiles, drywall - by any available method. The advantages of such a model - it takes up little space and looks non-standard, there are design ideas that turn the toilet into something completely unpredictable. If you want to diversify the style of the apartment - the option is right for you. The disadvantages of this type are unreliability (depends on quality) and high cost. Usually, the installation technology is signed in the instructions, as there are different variants installation. However, it does not say how to install a built-in toilet with your own hands so that it works specifically with your sewer and water supply system. Usually, the tank is suspended from the frame, fastened with several bolts and nuts through a gasket, carefully checked for strength and reliability, on which the unique installation ends. Adjust the drain to save water and proceed to the bottom paragraphs, which will describe in detail how to attach the unit to a sewer, water pipe.

How to install a hanging toilet with your own hands

Sewer connection

Stage 3. Attaching the float to the assembled part

It was possible to connect the toilet to the float earlier, but then it would interfere with the tightening of the nuts. Proper assembly is done as follows: put a rubber seal on the threads of your float, also for safety, now insert it into the tank with the side where the float has a thread. It is necessary to connect the tank and the float from the inside, then, as in previous cases, we slightly fix it with a suitable nut.

We have already solved half of the question of how to install a toilet bowl with our own hands - the device is fully assembled and ready to go. Now you need to properly connect it to your sewer and plumbing system, install it in a specific place.

Stage 4. Connecting to the sewer

Before you connect the toilet to the sewer system, you need to accurately choose a place for it, punch a hole for the pipe. If you have done this, proceed with the connection. For this, it is better to use, it combines strength, durability and, importantly, flexibility. With this material, you can move the toilet within its length, which is very useful for further work. Installation of a corrugated outlet is carried out as follows: the side with the feather gasket is inserted into the sewer pipe, and the other - onto the outlet of the toilet bowl. Tighten these holes as much as possible, they will hold themselves together.

Installation process

Stage 5. Installing the toilet on the surface

The next step is installation, attaching the toilet bowl with your own hands to the right place. To begin with, determine the position in which it will be comfortable for you to sit, the toilet will not stagger and creak, the corrugated pipe will hang freely, not stretch or shrink. Now let's turn our attention to lower part toilet bowl - here you can see several holes. Draw their outline with a marker or other writing medium and move the toilet away, but be careful not to damage the incoming pipe.

It is optimal to first move it a little to one side in order to drill holes from one part, then do the same on the other. It is most convenient and correct to do this with a puncher, in no case do not drill holes through the toilet itself, cracks, chips, breaks are possible. Take the time to do quality work.

Stage 6. Tighten the nuts

We insert the plastic plugs supplied with the toilet into the holes made. Now move the toilet back to the desired position and screw it on with the long screws that are usually included in the kit. As in other cases, do not forget to install metal washers, conical spacers and studs. Try to shake the device in place, if it walks, twist it harder, otherwise when you sit on it, it will tremble and eventually break. Ultimately, the toilet will stand firmly on the surface, no movement will generate a squeak. This completes the installation of the toilet with your own hands, it remains to attach the iron pipe connecting the unit to the plumbing system. This process is a little more complicated than the previous ones, but it is quite feasible.

Metal-plastic pipes

Stage 7. Connecting the plumbing system - options

When connecting the water supply to the toilet, you can use two types of pipes - a flexible hose, the negative sides of which are unreliability, creaking, leaks, fragility. He will constantly interfere, bend and wrinkle. Positive aspects - ease of connection, the ability to install on toilets of a non-standard format.

The second way is a metal-plastic pipe, reliable, strong, but not bending at all. Poor-quality models, which are the most on the modern market, will leak and rust. On the other hand, if you buy an expensive and high-quality pipe, it will serve a really long service and will not cause any problems in the future, which cannot be said even about the best hoses. We recommend using this method.

Stage 8. Connecting the plumbing system. First way

Proper installation of the toilet with your own hands involves the cost of your personal time, but if you still decide to finish this job quickly, use a flexible hose. It is best to buy a corrugated hose, its advantages have been described. For correct fastening, attach one end of the hose through the gasket to the toilet, the other to the plumbing system. After that, twist the ends, just do not apply excessive force - the gasket may break and then the hose will start leaking from the very first use. If during operation you damaged the hose, you will have to replace it, since its repair will cost you a lot of time, despite the fact that a positive result is not guaranteed.

Toilet installation

Stage 8. Connecting the plumbing system. Second way

Let us examine in detail the second method - connecting a metal-plastic pipe. It is installed in the same way as a flexible hose, only you need to twist the ends even more carefully - the metal will easily cut the gasket, so you need to find a middle ground between under twisting and twisting. The metal pipe will not bend or get in the way, so for this case it is ideal. After its installation, work with the toilet will be finally completed. All that remains is to attach the lid to the toilet bowl, seal the place where the unit docks with the floor, and that's it. Be sure to add a faucet to your pipe that can quickly turn off the water supply - this will prevent serious water leaks.

Outcome

After reading this material, your question about how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands will be settled. The main rules for installing a toilet bowl are accuracy, patience, and attentiveness. Follow these rules and you'll be fine. Remember that during the first time after the final installation, various problems may occur, such as leaks. Do not worry, sometimes after twisting the pipes can move away, leak. If you encounter this problem, just tighten the desired nut.

Install a toilet with your own hands video:

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to the professionals. However, this is not always possible, so knowing how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself will not be superfluous. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and securely fasten. And how this whole procedure actually looks like will be discussed below.

Process Features

In fact, the correct installation of the toilet, of course, is a complicated matter. However, if you understand its technology, you can install a toilet bowl with high quality and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in their own eyes. Recently, the number of models of toilet bowls has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to the traditional mounting method, other mounting methods appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall-mounted toilet bowls have also become widespread, which are mounted directly on the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to mount than models with floor mounts.

Also, the installation of the toilet bowl is affected by the type of attachment, flush, supply of the sewer pipe, its dimensions. Special attention given to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install plumbing. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet bowl and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilets in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point that you should think about in advance is the availability of all the necessary tools, including a puncher, screwdrivers, dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and tank before packing it. The product must be free of chips and cracks. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet bowl. It would not be superfluous to clarify what it consists of full set. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if there is a seat in it, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow installation without any problems.

Types of structures

There are a lot of types of toilet bowls, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often leads to customer confusion. From all this diversity, you must choose one toilet bowl. At the same time, it is desirable that it fits perfectly into the toilet room.

By size, toilets are divided into:

universal, the most widespread model;
children's, which, with their small size, are very convenient for children;
for people with handicapped, have different designs.

According to the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

Floor, the fixation of which is carried out to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
Suspended. Such models are mounted on the wall with the help of special fasteners (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The dimensions of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
framed, which can be mounted anywhere.

By attaching the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

with horizontal outlet

Such toilets are connected to the sewer only at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help of a corrugated pipe, the toilet bowl can be equally easily attached to the floor. This type originally received its distribution in Europe, and not so long ago with us.

with vertical

These designs are the most common, this name hides the most common toilet bowls that are connected to a sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in stalinkas built in the middle of the twentieth century.

With oblique

Such toilets are attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These designs can be seen in all the houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

According to how the drain tank is installed, toilet bowl designs are divided into three types.

Hinged, which is mounted on the wall.
A cistern mounted on a toilet. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
A hidden cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

According to the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.

With rear drain

In such models, water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantage of such a drain is that the flow of water is stronger, which means it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. It is necessary to clean the bowls of such toilet bowls exclusively using household chemicals.

With circular

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, cleaning the back wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.

The supply of water to the tank can be in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It comes in the bottom, side and rear.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

Funnel-shaped, when the mirror of water is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of water splashes during its use.
With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
With a sloping back wall, the water surface comes to the fore, minimizing splashes and unpleasant odours. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

According to the drain in the upper cisterns, toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

Bell

The bell is a cast-iron tank, which is attached to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside it is made of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron cork with a gasket at the bottom). Rising, the bell passes water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork drops. Among the shortcomings of this model, one can note the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits that impair draining.

Corrugation

The corrugation works when a rope is pulled on a lever. The corrugation bends, the water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the bell of the corrugation is tilted until all the water in the tank is completely drained. Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

Pear

The pear is characteristic of all modern drain systems. The principle of operation of the design is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is the reduction of rubber elasticity, which leads to leakage. Another disadvantage is related to the contamination of the seat with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified according to the material of the seat(plastic), case material (san faience, san porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Location selection

The layout of the toilet room should begin with the choice of a toilet bowl. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that it is worth proceeding to further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, the room will still have to be overhauled. And it includes updating the sewer line, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to estimate the dimensions of the new plumbing fixture. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to determine the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today, modern models are able to satisfy any whim in this regard.

The unconventional location of the sewer pipe can be a difficult task. Therefore, it is worth foreseeing the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth deploying or extending the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Of course, ideally, if the toilet can be connected vertically at an angle of 90 degrees. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. So it will become more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with the generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up taking into account various models. In the old Khrushchevs, everything is clearly more complicated.

Dismantling the old

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next step in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, you have to clean floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor. You can easily and quickly deal with such a task yourself. There is no need to go to the master.

It’s worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that goes from the drain to the tank. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they do not lend themselves, it is worth using special tools. They are applied to fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using a wrench or a screwdriver to break the mounting bolts is easier. If the old toilet is planned to be thrown away, then the problem of poor detachment of the tank can be solved with a hammer. After the tank mounts are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet bowl mounts. Often they look like a nut screwed on an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer. And you need to start with a coating that runs across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved different sides to finally drain the remaining water in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet may be glued with cement mortar to the floor. In this case, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is broken off in parts.

Now the toilet should easily unhook, it can be taken to the trash. If desired, you can chop with a sledgehammer to make it easier to take out. Another important point- it is necessary to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new design, experts recommend replacing a cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of the toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet to the sewer drain.

How to install: step by step guide

Installing a toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a small step-by-step guide. Moreover, to install the toilet on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastening. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

perforator;
wrench;
spanners;

hammer;
sealant;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
flexible hose.

The toilet cistern is supplied as a kit fully assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the tank. The steps may differ depending on the type of drain system. It is worth double-checking the reliability of fixing parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening screws and bolts.

On the floor

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and while they remain still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the toilet room. Installing a toilet on the floor is different, based on the floor covering. For example, on a tiled floor there is no need for additional leveling.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not completely even, it is better to install using chopsticks and screws. If the toilet is installed in a new building where there is no finish, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tile. If a wooden stand was located under the old toilet, it should be dismantled. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation using a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and deposits, install a tap on the water pipe (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet drain to the sewer pipe. You can do this in one of several ways.

The junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer is best sealed with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not get under the toilet when washing the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast-iron pipe, it is best to use an adapter collar with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast-iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a corrugated cuff. The main advantage of this method is economy. However, the toilet cannot be closely attached to the socket. This method is best not to choose for small rooms. Using a straight cuff, you can ensure a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the sewer. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the centers for connecting the toilet and sewer are displaced. Follow the pre-determined toilet installation method.

For dowels

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer coincides with the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. Circle the seat with a pencil or marker.

Make markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet bowl. It is best if it coincides with the center of the room. With a reference to the axis, it is necessary to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Make marks for the holes with a marker, which is strictly vertically inserted into the holes for the fasteners.

Prepare mounting holes. To do this, you need to remove the toilet bowl to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined place for landing. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without undue effort, fixing everything with plugs. Excess silicone is removed with a rubber spatula or a damp cloth.

For adhesive

You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Conduct markup. To do this, the bowl is placed in the required place and outlined with a pencil.

Prepare the base. You need to start by cleaning the floor and the base of the bowl from various contaminants. In order for the adhesion with the adhesive to be the best, it is necessary to make the surface rough. To do this, it is cleaned with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet bowl and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive composition for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and inner part contours on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Set the bowl in place. Be sure to press it hard to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet and not sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The fastening will be stronger.

On taffeta

Taffeta is a gasket made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method ideal when installing the toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used on other floors. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing 5–15 mm thick is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut a blank out of it. Then it is treated with drying oil or a solution that can prevent decay. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed in the workpiece. You can also drive nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out of it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully comply with the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement. Take the taffeta and turn it with the anchors or nails down. Then they lower it into the cement on the floor. If everything is done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

Waiting for the cement to dry completely. Install a toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Rubber washers should be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramic remains undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, follow simple instructions.

Install the tank directly on the toilet bowl and mount it with the plastic screws that come with the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the tank and the toilet.

Connect flexible conduit. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the fastening is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the union nuts.
Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Instructions for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
Do a test run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
Adjust the locking mechanism, according to the instructions.

On the wall

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such designs can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
Install the upper stops, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
Install the bottom stops, similar to plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

Adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame should be exactly above the middle of the sewer pipe.
The height of the installation is carried out using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall indicated in the documents.
Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, mark in the necessary places with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill holes and install dowel bodies in them. Then install the fasteners themselves, after putting them on the sealant.

Install branch pipes, as well as couplings in a fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
Install metal rods. They will be attached to the toilet bowl. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
Extend the sewer pipe to the required distance and fix it with a bracket. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the hole formed. It is connected to the insides with a cap nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is connected using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a cap nut.
Close the installation for the toilet with a false wall, for example, from moisture-resistant drywall. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
Finish the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
They put the toilet bowl on the pins, the outlet of the bowl hermetically enters the plastic sewer socket.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

The first thing experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer outlet.
Do not postpone the purchase of plumbing at the last moment, and also purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room is prepared for a specific toilet model in advance. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.
An eccentric cuff, which is called a corrugation, will help compensate for the difference in floor height before and after repair. To supply water to the tank, it is better to use a flexible hose.
In the case when the sewer pipe leaves through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

Perfect option during installation, when the toilet drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. For sealing, a ring with a rubberized border can be used.

If the floor in the toilet is uneven, the toilet should be installed using silicone sealant.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, with them it is also necessary to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet bowl. When installing a toilet bowl on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

In order to easily and without damage remove the corrugation connecting the toilet bowl and the sewer, its exit and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is put on a sewer socket.
Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the sole of the bowl, you need to sit on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
Do not use plastic dowels that come with toilet bowls. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast-iron sewer pipe can be removed with a perforator or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. It is possible to burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or clogged with a cable. Before burning it is necessary to take care of sufficient ventilation of the room, remove all flammable means and materials.

Sooner or later there is a need to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to do the installation work on their own. Further in the article we will deal with how to properly install the toilet.

general information

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you must select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a "compact" toilet bowl model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one that stood before or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the assembly different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with enough detailed instructions in different languages, including Russian.

Important Points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

Release angle. Various models are being produced today. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the output does not match in the model of the selected product, it will be possible to additionally purchase a drain transitional corrugation.
Water connection. Traditionally, a bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
Mounting method. An old toilet can be fixed to the floor with two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the appliance is cemented into the surface. In this case, it will be necessary to break the floor screed until a wood insert appears.

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of blocking the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. It is possible that before you install the toilet, you will need to replace any elements. Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

Drill and drill with a diameter of 10.
Hammer.
To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

First of all, remove the mount to the floor. Bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed breaks if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to beat the plumbing object at the fixation points. After the toilet is removed, it must be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next, you need to disconnect the socket. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast-iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. From the side of the joint, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The socket should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted until it stops. After that, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

old mounts

If the floor is even (flooded with a screed or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, remove the old fixing elements. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. Holes can be wider than dowels. In this case, the product will not be fixed securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is attached to the place of fixation. Next, you should note the attachment points, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the eyeliner. Dowels must be carefully hammered into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will depend on the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the plumbing product was flooded with mortar, then before installing the toilet bowl, it is necessary to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, a toilet bowl is placed on top and screwed. After the screed dries, the bolts are finally tightened. One point should be taken into account here. Wood lining can rot over time. If the installation of the bar is not expected, then the screed is poured and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is attached to the prepared attachment point. Fasteners are twisted alternately - one and the second should be tightened evenly. The assembly of the product is carried out together with the drain tank. As a rule, modern models are made in the form of a compact design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with an automatic system for collecting and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. next step is the fixation of a flexible eyeliner. One end is screwed to the water pipe. Then you should open a little faucet and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water closes, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to properly install a toilet.

System check

After completing the installation, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being drawn into the tank, you should carefully inspect all the joints, check for leaks. Next, you need to drain the water several times. This checks that there are no leaks in the sewer connections. After a few hours, everything should be carefully examined again. Here's how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.

custom design

Often there is so little space in the bathrooms that many owners decide to install a hanging toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than the one described above. How to install a wall hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and covered with a decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If there is no possibility to equip a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. From above it can be sheathed with drywall and tiled like walls. The design of the hanging toilet bowl allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will be only the product itself and the button for flushing.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame is usually 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partly the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the inhabitants of the apartment, partly on the model of the product itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. It is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. For alignment, use the level. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After that, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After that, the frame is installed and adjusted with screws. horizontal position. Vertical alignment is carried out by brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with lock nuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install a tank? In this case, the element is not fixed to the toilet bowl. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected with a flexible hose to the water pipe. Then it is necessary to adjust the elbow-shaped adapter in length. It connects the socket of the outlet pipe and the outlet of the toilet bowl. After that, the pins are mounted for fastening, in fact, the bowl of the plumbing fixture. Corners are installed around the perimeter of the frame. The lining will be fixed on them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.

Finishing the installation of the toilet

The product is attached to the selected place after the sheathing of the frame and other finishing works are completed. At the installation site of the toilet, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. White cement, Portland cement or white cement can be used as a leveling mixture. The paste should have the consistency of a thick slurry. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it is supplied in the kit), then the toilet bowl is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, tighten the nuts. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, a few words must be said about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually attached with two bolts. Included with the product you can find these fixing elements.

Are you busy renovating the bathroom or the toilet? Sooner or later, you will face the question of installing a toilet bowl with your own hands. In this article, we will describe the entire process in detail so that you can easily complete all the work yourself.

Self-installation of the toilet, not such a difficult task. The whole process can be done without the involvement of plumbers. Considering that they charge from 1500 rubles for the installation of the simplest toilet bowl, in addition to saving, you will gain invaluable experience.

Room preparation consists of:

Cleaning old plumbing;
Alignment of the seat;
Determination of parameters for a new toilet bowl;

In general, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands, although an easy job, does not tolerate "white hands". We recommend purchasing rubber gloves and wearing them when working with sewer pipes. This is the dirtiest place.

Turn off the water supply to the toilet bowl and disconnect the water supply.

Removal of the old toilet bowl is carried out depending on the attachment. In some cases, they can be planted in cement, and then it must be chipped away. If the fixation was on a bolted connection, then the bolts are unscrewed, the toilet bowl is slightly loosened and gently lifted with an inclination back. This must be done to drain the remaining water in the siphon. Now you can pull the toilet pipe out of the sewer pipe.

In old houses, the connection between the toilet and the sewer was sealed with cement mortar. If this is your case, then you have to work with a hammer and break the drain pipe. Its fragments may be inside the sewer pipe. They must be removed! The hole in the sewer pipe is closed with a plastic bag.

Depending on how the old toilet was fixed, the seat is being prepared.

Sometimes, toilet bowls were coated with cement mortar, and tiles were laid, forming a new surface. In this case, you will have to fill in the recess to level it under one level. The easiest way to do this is with a quick-setting self-levelling screed. It is found in small packaging, 2-5 kg each. For work, a two-kilogram package will suffice.

All debris is removed from the excavation, swept, then primed. Dry screed is diluted according to the instructions on the package. The finished mixture is poured in such a way that its level coincides with the level of the main surface.

After a day, the screed gains the declared strength, and it must be primed.

If the toilet was installed on top of an integral coating, but in this case, a mud rim may clearly appear. No matter how well and carefully cleaning is carried out, microscopic dust particles are always deposited in such places. They eat into the surface of the tile, and it can be very difficult to remove them.

A solvent with a very weak surface tension film will help to cope with this task. This is a necessary condition for the penetration of liquid into the smallest pores of the glaze. They will not harm the tile itself. We recommend trying:

WD40;
Acetone;
Xylene.

One of these solvents will help to cope with the task.

To determine the parameters of a new toilet bowl, it is necessary to measure:

the height of the inlet to the sewer pipe;
eyeliner length;
dimensions of free space behind the toilet.

Write down the results on a piece of paper so as not to make a mistake when choosing. TIP: take a picture with your camera mobile phone, general form prepared toilet. It might come in handy at the store.

How to choose a toilet

There are certain criteria in which we have no right to give you any recommendations. For example, the color or shape of the toilet bowl. This is entirely your responsibility. But there are some characteristics that should be considered first.

Toilet type.

They are of three types:

Suspended;
Attached;
Floor.

Yes, there is a small gap between the floor and the wall-hung toilet. But his diminutiveness is a fiction. The fact is that the installation system conceals the toilet from the depth of at least 30 cm. It will be decorated with a wall covering, and it will not be visible. But the volume of the toilet room will decrease significantly.

Attached toilets can be considered as a kind of floor. But they are perfectly aligned. rear surface, and often fixation is made not only to the floor, but also to the wall.

Floor-mounted toilets are a common type of plumbing, bolted to the floor.

The material of typical toilet bowls is sanitary ware and sanitary ware. In fact, this is the same white clay, but quartz is added to the sanitary ware. These toilets are more expensive. In operation, with regular cleaning, there are no differences.
bowl type.

For domestic toilet bowls, three types of bowl are possible:

Plate-shaped (with a shelf);
Visor (with an oblique wall);
Funnel-shaped.

Disc bowls are considered obsolete, as they require a stronger water pressure. On the shelf, from hard water, rust deposits may form. Rarely found on sale.

Visor bowls are more hygienic. Does not form splashes. The slope can be both on the front wall and on the back.

Funnel bowls require the least amount of water to flush. They have a drawback - the formation of splashes. But most models have an anti-splash system. These are small protrusions at the bottom of the funnel that are formed during the manufacture of the toilet.

Release system.

This is the most important parameter that you should pay attention to in the first place. She happens:

Straight (horizontal);
oblique;
vertical;
Universal.

Straight and oblique outlets, this is the gradation of the angle at which the drain is located in relation to the floor. If desired, these two options can be corrected using a corrugated pipe. But the vertical exit is located at the bottom of the toilet. Typically, such systems involve the installation of plumbing in private housing construction. For an apartment, this option is not acceptable.

The universal outlet can be positioned at any angle without additional equipment. But such models are more expensive than their counterparts by 25-30%.

Drain tank type.

They are of three types:

Embedded
Monoblock;
hinged;
Ceiling.

A built-in cistern is an element of hanging toilet bowls. A rather bulky design that requires disguise behind finishing materials.

Monoblock, this is a single design with a toilet bowl. It is impossible to separate them. In operation, they are no different, but they have a solid appearance.

Mounted tank, convenient for completing plumbing equipment to suit your needs. Each manufacturer has a wide range of products that can be completed at your discretion.

Ceiling cistern, characterized by the highest quality flush. It is placed at a height of 1.8-2 m from the floor and is connected to the toilet with a vertical pipe. When flushing, the water flow has more pressure, and the toilet bowl is cleaned more fully. If desired, the ceiling tank can be "closed" with wall finishing material, and it will not be noticeable.

Tanks have a volume of 4 to 8 liters. The type of drain can be rod or push-button. In the first case, the lever must be raised, in the second, the button must be pressed.

Push-button systems are very often equipped with a differential drain. In this case, the button is divided into two unequal parts. When you press the smaller button, half of the tank is drained, when you press the large one, the entire volume of water descends. Given the prevalence of water meters, such systems allow the family to save from three people 1-1.5 cubic meters of cold water per month.

Water supply.

There is a side, back and bottom. The difference between the side and rear is only in the location of the inlet. But the lower water supply ensures silent filling of the tank. Many experts consider the lower intake to be more reliable.

flush type

The two most common types are:

Straight;
Circular.

In the first case, the drain occurs in one direction from one point. This design is a relic of the past, and is gradually disappearing along with plate bowls. Its disadvantages are noise and splashes.

The circular flush system ensures the flow of water from different points. Water consumption is less, bowl coverage is almost 95%. No splashes are generated.

What is the price

Incredibly, most plumbers voice the cost of installing a toilet bowl at 1,500-2,000 rubles. In Moscow it will be even more expensive. In our opinion, this is quite a lot, because the work is not so difficult, and takes 30 minutes at the most with communications carried out in advance.

Toilet installation

Now we will show in detail how to install a toilet bowl with our own hands. For work you will need:

Fan pipe (or corrugation for the toilet);
Silicone sealant;
Drill (if the toilet is installed on a tiled floor);
Tubular drill;
adjustable wrench;
Marker.

Install the toilet in the prepared place. Check how evenly it is relative to the walls. Through the holes for the bolts, mark the places for drilling with a marker. TIP: stick pieces of masking tape on the tile, and the markings will be better visible.

You can also drill tiles with a spear-shaped drill. But for some varieties ceramic tiles, it doesn't fit. But diamond-coated tubular drills can drill through any tile or porcelain tile. But when drilling, set restrictively 600-800 rpm.

Insert plastic dowels into the drilled holes. If necessary. Cut off the protruding part with a construction knife.

It is decided to use a fan or corrugated pipe depending on the interface between the toilet bowl outlet and the sewer pipe inlet. If they match in level, then I use a fan pipe. Otherwise, use a corrugated pipe for the toilet.

In any case, first insert the adapter into the sewer. But it is pre-coated with silicone sealant. This will not only improve the quality of fixation, but also prevent the appearance of unwanted odors.

The toilet outlet and the adapter cuff inlet are also treated with silicone sealant. But in this case, in addition to sealing, this procedure will provide softer penetration.

The toilet bowl is pushed into the seat, while thrusting the outlet into the cuff of the adapter. Align the holes on the bottom of the toilet bowl with the holes in the floor. Then I fix the plumbing with bolts. It should not be overtightened. Usually twist until the toilet stops staggering.

The place where the sole of the toilet bowl fits the floor covering must be treated with silicone sealant. This must be done to prevent water from getting under the plumbing during wet cleaning.

Tank installation

If the tank was purchased separately, then to fix it, the valve system is assembled in strict accordance with the instructions. There is no single guide, as the systems are different.

The assembled water drain group is installed in the tank and fixed from below with a clamping nut. At the point of contact of the tank with the descent system, a little silicone sealant is applied.

The toilet cistern is installed through plastic gaskets. Fastening is carried out manually, and the last 1-2 turns are tightened with an adjustable wrench.

Close the tank lid, screw the button or stem handle on top.

Water supply is carried out through a flexible hose. It is recommended to choose a hose of such length that its excess is no more than 3-7 cm. Otherwise, it will form spiral bends when taking in water.

If the tank is ceiling mounted, then it is fixed to the wall, at the height of the pipe that comes with the kit. TIP: This element can be hidden behind wall panels. The pipe from the tank is also covered with a plastic panel, having previously cut off its stiffeners.

Installing a wall hung toilet

It's over difficult process, at which it is necessary to carry out complete renovation toilet. The fact is that fixation is carried out with anchor bolts, to a depth of 25-30 cm. Only such fasteners will ensure the immobility of the system under a load of 200 kg.

The installation system will require 30 cm behind the toilet. It is fixed in the same way. After that, the installation is sewn up with finishing materials, and only the water drain button remains outside.

In an ordinary apartment, suspension systems are installed extremely rarely. The dimensions of the toilet room are too small for such equipment.

Quality control of installation works

Even if all the work on installing the toilet was carried out with the maximum control of each stage, it is necessary to check the correct operation of the entire system. Particular attention is paid to the possible occurrence of leaks.

TIP: In plumbing stores, you can purchase a leak indicator. It is a small device, about the size of a pack of cigarettes. It runs on batteries. It is turned on and placed on the floor. When water appears, the contacts close and the indicator emits a loud sound. Device cost ≈ 500 r.

The easiest way to find out if there are leaks is to drain the water 2-3 times, and then wipe all threaded connections with a dry paper towel.

Special attention is paid to the connection of the outlet of the toilet bowl with the sewer pipe. The check is carried out according to this scenario.