Types of attachment of the reel to the rod. Proper spinning equipment

Many anglers are fond of spinning fishing. This is an interesting activity, as well as an active form of recreation. This is due to the fact that spinning fishing involves constant casting of lures and constant movement along the shore of a reservoir in search of fish.

The success of fishing depends largely on right choice all elements of spinning tackle. The variety of these elements sometimes confuses beginner spinningists. To properly equip a spinning rod, you need to know a lot and be able to do just as much.

Typically, spinning tackle involves the following components:

• spinning rod;
• coils;
• fishing line;
• artificial bait.

All modern spinning rods vary in length, test, class and action.

The test characteristics of the rod are considered basic. It is indicated in grams, which are applied to the body of the rod and determines the upper and lower limits of the mass of the bait used. There are several main classes. For example:

1. Light class (Light) - 5-15 grams.
2. Middle class (Medium) - 10-30 grams.
3. Heavy class (Heavy) - 20-50 grams.
4. Super heavy class (Extra Heavy) - more than 50 grams.

In addition to the main classes, the following intermediate classes are noted:

1. Ultra light class (Ultra Light) - 0-10 grams.
2. Medium light class (Medium Light) - 5-25 grams.
3. Medium heavy class (Medium Heavy) - 15-40 grams.

As a rule, it is recommended not to go beyond the test limits. If all baits are lighter than the lower limit, then it will be difficult to cast the bait for a considerable distance, and if it weighs more than the upper limit, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to control the bait during the wiring process. In addition, lures that are heavier than indicated in the test can damage the rod. Basically the top is broken. Then it will be difficult to choose the tip for a particular rod.

Length is an equally important characteristic that can affect the performance of spinning fishing. Basically, the length of the rod is measured in meters, but if it is an American rod, then in feet and inches.

The length of the rod depends on several factors. For example:

• fishing conditions;
• technology spinning fishing;
• casting distance.

When fishing from a shore overgrown with vegetation, it is better to opt for a short rod. The same rod is suitable for fishing from a boat. Long rods are chosen when needed. long casts. This applies to large reservoirs with clean shores.

spinning system

Modern manufacturers of spinning rods produce rods of various flexibility. This is due to the fact that different fishing conditions require rods that are not the same in terms of flexibility. For example, when fishing for perch, you need a rod that is light and flexible enough to cast ultra-light lures far, the ability to bend the rod blank, depending on specific conditions. In this regard, the following types of rods are found:

• ultra-fast action blanks - only a quarter of the rod bends;
• fast action blanks - 50% of the rod is bent;
• slow action blanks - the rod bends almost completely.

The design of the through-rings, the technology of their manufacture, as well as the quality of workmanship play an important role in its durability. In addition, the quality of the rings affects the wear of the fishing line. Rings are attached to the rod in such a way that it does not affect the reliability of the rod. The main material for the manufacture of rings is silicon carbide. It is very important that the rings are well polished. If you use monofilament line, the rings will last much longer. If you use braided fishing line, then you need to take into account the fact that it has abrasive properties.

The handle of the rod is the part of the rod with which the spinner is constantly in contact. If the handle design is not thought out, then fishing will not be as effective and comfortable. Usually the handle in spinning is made of cork. It is soft yet lightweight material. In addition, he is pleasant when you come into contact with him. The length of the handle is not of fundamental importance, therefore, for all its length is almost the same. Somewhere, in this area, there is a reel seat on the handle. So, its dimensions depend on its functional purpose.

To date, the following types of coil can be noted:

1. Inertialess.
2. Multiplier (inertial).

Multiplier reels are also called "marine" and they are designed for catching large, trophy fish. They are somewhat more difficult to use, but under classical conditions, they are no better than inertialess ones, the simplicity of which is one of the main advantages. In this regard, the majority of spinningists prefer inertialess structures. The coil consists of:

• from a spool;
• spool movement mechanism;
• friction brake;
• rotor;
• rotor rotation mechanism;
• rotor reverse rotation stopper;
• handles;
• corps;
• line laying machine.

How is the reel attached to the spinning rod

Each rod has a place to attach a reel. To fix it, you need:

1. Loosen the bottom nut so that the reel handle fits into the reel seat.
2. Tighten the nut tightly, but very carefully, otherwise the threads may be stripped.

In fact, this is a drum on which the fishing line is wound. High quality spools are made of metal and their front part is coated with titanium nitride for greater wear resistance. The spool must indicate how many meters and how thick the fishing line fits on the spool.

friction brake

This is a structural element designed to protect the coil from excessive loads. Before going fishing, it is advisable to adjust the friction brake:

1. The end of the fishing line should be fixed to a solid base, after which you need to move a few meters.
2. Having fully tightened the friction clutch, they begin to pull the line. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the strength of the fishing line so as not to break it.
3. After that, slowly release the clutch until the reel starts to bleed the line.

There is another, more accurate way to adjust the friction clutch, when a load of known weight is attached to the tackle. For example, a brick is often used, the weight of which reaches 5 kg. This approach allows you to more accurately adjust the clutch.

For spinning - this is very important point, which indicates how good the coil can be. Their number can range from 0 to 12 pieces. Despite this, 5-6 bearings are enough if you have to fish in classic conditions. For example:

• 1 or 2 bearings must be on the rotor gear.
• 2 bearings should be located on the axis of the handle.
• 1 bearing must be present in the line laying mechanism.

Naturally, the more bearings, the more reliable the coil can be. It is very important that the reel mechanism ensures quiet operation and smooth running.

Leash and line for spinning

fishing line

As a rule, spinningists use 2 types of fishing line. These include ordinary monofilament fishing line and braided fishing line, or simply "braid". The braided line has better quality indicators in relation to the monofilament fishing line. For example:

1. Braided fishing line has a large breaking load, with the same diameter.
2. It does not stretch, so the tackle becomes more sensitive.

What to choose: braided or monofilament?

Braided fishing line has some disadvantages. Therefore, the choice of fishing line depends on various fishing conditions. In addition, the braid has abrasive properties, which reduces the durability of the reel and guide rings. Since it does not stretch, when playing a big fish, the entire load falls on the rod.

Under conditions when you have to cast far, the braid very quickly transfers to the tip of the rod. This is very important when catching small fish.

Leash

If you intend to catch such a predator as a pike, then a reliable leash is a must. There are 3 types of leads:

• Small leashes. They are made of fluorocarbon or other similar material. Fluorocarbon leashes are invisible in the water, but they can be bitten by pike. But for catching this predatory fish like asp, chub, perch or walleye they fit perfectly.
• Semi-rigid leashes. They are made of a special leader material and are suitable for pike fishing. At the same time, they have a memory effect and after each deformation they have to be thrown away.
• Rigid leashes. They are made from special materials, which include steel. They are used exclusively for pike fishing.

Therefore, we can say that each type of leash is suitable for catching a particular type of fish. Although this line is rather conditional, since in every reservoir there can also be a pike, which can immediately bite off the bait, along with a leash.

Connection of fishing line and leash

Such a connection can be made using a simple fishing knot. It runs like this:

1. The line should be threaded into the eye of the swivel.
2. After that, the eye is scrolled around its axis 7-8 times.
3. Then, the free end of the fishing line is passed into the loop.
4. In conclusion, the knot must be tightened, and the excess end of the fishing line must be cut off.

This can be done in one of the ways. For example:

1. The end of the fishing line is passed through all the rings.
2. Then the fishing line is attached to the drum (spool).
3. After that, starting to rotate the handle of the reel, creating a certain tension of the fishing line, it is wound on the spool.

To tension the line, the spool on which the line is wound can be placed in a bucket of water. Then you do not need to create any additional effort, and the fishing line is wound simply and quickly.

A swivel is an element that prevents the line from twisting. This is especially true when using spinners. The following advantages of using a swivel and fastener can be distinguished:

• Since the line does not twist, this increases its service life.
• The clasp allows you to quickly change the bait.

There are 3 main types of spinning lures:

• Silicone lures.
• Spinners.
• Wobblers.

Each type of bait requires its own approach to fishing technique. For spinning players who have just begun to master the technique of spinning fishing, we can recommend the following lures:

1. Spinners.
2. Silicone baits: vibrotails and twisters.
3. Swinging baubles.

As for wobblers, their use requires special skills, which is not available for all spinning players. In addition, catchable wobblers are expensive.

Silicone lures are often used in jig fishing techniques. For this, special jig heads with hooks are produced.

It remains only to connect together the silicone bait and the jig head. At the same time, jig heads differ in weight, and therefore in size. In addition, the load may have a different shape. All jig heads and their size must match the size of the lure.

There is also a flexible connection, when the load is attached to the bait with the help of clockwork rings. This method of fastening allows you to get a more believable game of the bait.

Types of spinning rigs

There are several spinning snaps:

1. The bait is attached directly to the swivel.
2. A metal leash is used to connect the bait.
3. A retractable leash is a rig for bottom fishing.
4. A drop shot is a rig for fishing from a high bank or from a boat.
5. Sbirullino is a heavy float that allows you to cast light baits over considerable distances.

• You need to opt for a form of medium or slow formation. The length is selected based on the conditions of fishing.
• It is better to use a monofilament line that can dampen the jerks of this predator.
• A spinning reel should be preferred.
• It is advisable to use a metal leash.
• It is possible to use all types of baits.

• It is advisable to take a fast action rod, from 2 to 3 meters long.
• Both a braided line is suitable if the bottom of the reservoir is clean, and a monofilament is suitable if the bottom is rocky or with branches or snags.
• Spinning coil.
• Very well caught on vibrotails, worms and twisters.

• A rod of medium action is selected, about 2.4 meters long.
• A coil is selected, size 1000.
• For perch fishing, metal leashes are not needed.

• Suitable rod of medium action, optimal length.
• It is better to install a 3000 size coil.
• If a monofilament is taken, then a diameter of 0.25-0.3 mm is sufficient, if a braid is taken, then a thickness of 0.1-0.2 mm is sufficient.
• When catching pike, it is desirable to install a strong leash.

• The length of the rod is optional. Rod test - 40-60 g for stagnant water bodies and 100-140 g for fast-flowing rivers.
• Inertialess reel, with the possibility of winding 100-150 meters of fishing line.
• It is possible to use both monofilament fishing line and braided line.
• The weight and shape of the feeder is selected according to the conditions of fishing. As a rule, the feeder is also a sinker.
• It is advisable to use leashes with puffs, since you have to select their length, depending on the nature of the reservoir.
• Be sure to have a bite signaling device in the form of a bell, etc.
• You will need a rod stand. This is a mandatory attribute of bottom gear. Alternatively, the stand can be cut directly near the pond.

Beginner spinners may find the following tips useful:

1. Before purchasing a spinning rod, it is better to consult with an experienced spinning player or, in extreme cases, with the seller, although it is not a fact that he can be very versed in what he is selling. It is more convenient for him to sell the goods that few people take. Despite this, you can meet a knowledgeable, honest seller. Extra advice never hurts.
2. When mastering the technique of spinning fishing, you do not need to be afraid, much less upset from the first failures. It is necessary to boldly experiment, constantly changing baits. After all, the fish is unpredictable and for successful fishing it needs to be interested and provoked to bite.
3. Fishing with spinning is an active fishing that requires a lot of strength and energy. Frequent casts, as well as frequent changes in fishing places, put a significant strain on the arms and legs. Sometimes spinners walk kilometers along the banks of reservoirs in search of fish. Therefore, you need to be prepared for such loads, since you don’t have to sit in one place.

One of the keys to successful fishing is the reliability of the equipment used. The ability to choose the correct and rational ways of attaching the main line to the rod is one of these criteria. comfortable fishing. You can correctly tie the fishing line to the fishing rod in certain ways, which also depend on the fishing conditions, the type of gear and the size of the trophy planned in the catch. The angler's knowledge of options that allow quick, reliable and with the possibility of subsequent dismantling with the least consequences for the equipment contribute to saving time on fishing and reducing the cost of installations, which are guaranteed to be completely safe.

Most often, anglers have to decide how to attach a fishing line to a fishing rod without rings. Of course, first of all, this problem relates to fly rods, during the assembly of which a tying method suitable for the fishing conditions must be applied without fail. The presented article will allow anglers to get acquainted with the main options for fastening the line on the max, specify the materials that will be needed to carry out fastening operations, and give an idea of ​​the processes of technical execution of the manipulations themselves.

The prototype of the fly was once an ordinary stick, which makes it possible to feed bait into a certain fishing area by means of a thread attached to the tip of the device. In the modern fishing world, with the advent of innovative materials that have both high strength and the same high flexibility parameters, the rod began to look like a telescopic lightweight design with a length of 3 to 11 meters. The tackle whip is smooth, without the addition of folding knees with access rings. The fishing line with the installation is wound onto a reel, where it is stored until the next fishing. To assemble this type of gear into working condition, you will need to tie a fishing line to a fly rod, and with a change in fishing conditions, you may need to change equipment during fishing to a completely different type.

Important! The material used to make the rod varies from fiberglass, which is a heavy option for tackle, to carbon fiber and carbon fiber blanks, which are a lightweight option.

Plug-in rods are also one of the types of mach, the assembly principle of which is based on connecting the parts of the rod into a glass, and the main core of the cord is attached to the tip of the tackle through a shock-absorbing device called feedergam. The plugs differ from the ordinary swing by the significant size of their length, which can reach values ​​from 9 to 20 meters. Whips are made of carbon fiber and even with such a huge size, tackle rarely exceeds the weight of 1.5 kg. Tests of both types of fishing rods do not exceed 70 grams, but in terms of their structure, manufacturers are trying to produce blank lines with medium and slow parameters.

What is a connector

Fastening the fishing line to the fly rod is most conveniently done using a locking device or a connector. Connectors are made of durable plastics or light metal alloys.

Important! The installation of the fishing line to the fly rod is carried out through a self-tightening loop, previously connected by the angler on the cord.

To change the fishing line, you need to unclench the knot and change the cord to a new type of installation. The product consists of two main parts - the hook itself and a movable lock in the form of a cylinder that closes it, which tightly presses the fishing line after the knot is tightened on the hook. This type fasteners do not deform the fishing line and do not expose it to abrasion during fishing.

How to choose

Connectors made of duralumin alloys are considered more reliable elements and are used when catching large and powerful fish, carp, barbel, ide and chub. Plastic varieties of products are suitable only for the conditions of catching medium-sized fish, roach, bleak, ruff, minnow and small carp. The advantages of connectors are in the speed of changing the main lines and the reliability of its fastening. In addition, this device is inexpensive in its cost, durable and easy to use, and, apart from glue, does not require additional materials for installation on the rod.

Important! The method of mounting the device on the rod depends on the design of the tip of the tackle.

If the tip has an internal cavity, then the product is purchased with a sleeve for internal mounting. If the tip of the rod is solid, a connector with a hollow shank is purchased. To accurately select the connector, you will also need to know exactly the outer or inner diameter of the last knee of the blank. The easiest way is to measure the stem with a compass and use this tool to select the required accessory option in the store. But it is more reliable to grab the rod itself to the point of sale and pick up the fixture by directly connecting the parts in a trial way. Having chosen the option required for the configuration, the device is glued to the tip of the fishing rod blank with glue and after the joint has dried, the tackle is completely ready for the installation of the cord.

How to tie a fishing line to a fishing rod without rings

The above-described connector came into the use of a float fisherman relatively recently and not every angler even today prefers this particular method, which allows you to attach a fishing line to a rod without rings. Many experienced anglers use their own types of fasteners, which are simple, cheap and low material consumption, but require a lot of labor and time for installation and the ability to complete the process from the angler.

We will describe the most popular of them in the next chapter of the material, so that there is still an alternative and choice in relation to the connector, and even in the field, the angler was able to solve the problem of connecting without having a factory fastener option.

Other Ways to Attach Line to a Fly Rod

We fix the fishing line to the fly rod, forming a ring of wire or paper clip. Next, we attach the antennae emanating from the circumference of the ring to the quiver-type of the rod, tightly, winding the nylon thread around the twist and subsequently glue the winding with glue. The fishing line is attached to the ring by means of a loop-to-loop connection. As a result, we get a solid deaf mount. Remounting the rig will require cutting the line at the ring and forming another loop on the cord.

We make one more connection to the tip of the tip with the help of cambrics. To form a joint, you will need a cambric that fits snugly around the tip of the blank. A cut of the selected material of 10 centimeters is cut into two equal parts. We freely skip the first one along the fishing line, and tie the cord to the second and pull it on the tip, moving 7–10 cm towards the butt of the rod. We wind the cord into a couple of turns on the freed end of the tackle and close the mount by pulling the first piece of cambric onto the blank. The connection is ready. To re-equip the fishing rod, you will need to completely repeat the described operation, after cutting the fishing line and removing the cambric from the blank for re-manipulation.

The next method can be implemented in two versions, in one of which a knitted nylon casing will be used, and in the second, a hat elastic or a model. The casing is threaded onto a quivertip, previously lubricated with glue, so that a 10 cm piece of rope hangs from the tip of the rod and the connection is allowed to dry. Further, a knot is formed on the free section. The fishing line at the end of the rope is tied by tightening the loop, which is stopped by the formed knot. Replacing with a new installation requires cutting the fishing line and another connection through tightening the loop. When using a model, the gum itself is attached to the tip of the tackle with a nylon thread with sizing. And as with a rope, they form a knot that acts as a stopper for the loops of the mounted lines.

Important! The model acts in two ways, serving at the same time as a connecting element, and is a feedergum, which gives the angler reason to use more sensitive equipment and thin line diameters when fishing.

On the installations themselves, prepared for the fishing conditions, loops are knitted in advance and the fishing lines are attached to the model and the rope already directly in the process of fishing.

How to make sure that the reel is securely held on the rod.
6 - little tricks (well, or tips).

Most modern fishing tackle suggest the use of a rod-reel pair. The convenience of managing all the gear, and hence the success of the fishing itself, depends on how stable and reliable these elements are connected.
Most often on rods different types you can see the screw reel seats. Their device is simple and quite reliable, but at the same time they differ in the location of the running nut, which presses the profile ring, which holds the coil foot on one side. Its “lower” location is recognized as classic, when the nut is located on the tube of the reel seat closer to the butt of the rod. It is this design of the reel seat that most of the rods of American and European manufacturers have, which are designed for fishing with spinning, feeder and match gear with a spinning reel. Japanese rod manufacturers often prefer the original bright design and install more ergonomic reel seats on the same rods, taking into account the anatomy of the human hand. In these designs, the running nut is located in front. The principle of fastening the reel in both designs is the same, but when using a rod paired with a reel, the “classic” is somewhat inferior in convenience to the “ergonomics”. This is especially true for rods that are constantly held in the hand during fishing: spinning rods, partly match rods, and somewhat less often feeder rods, which are much more likely to stand on stands, as well as carp rods. When the rod is properly gripped by hand, the inertialess reel stand passes between the index and middle fingers (sometimes in front of the index). Accordingly, almost the entire “classic” reel seat lies in the palm of your hand, and its ribbed nut either rests on the edge of the palm or is covered by the little finger. This does not cause any particular inconvenience - millions of anglers quickly get used to such a grip. But with all the manipulations with the rod - casting, hooking, and especially when guiding the bait and playing the fish - the running nut inevitably weakens a little and the reel begins to "walk" on the seat. By itself, this "sin" is small, but the constant tightening of the running nut is annoying, distracting from the fishing process, and in some cases can lead to failure of the reel seat. Designs with a front nut, which is often set in a noble cork or practical neoprene, are less prone to arbitrary unscrewing, since during the operation of the rod the palm and fingers of the hand holding it do not touch this part. But even in them, with significant backlashes on the threads of plastic (as a rule) parts, sometimes loosening of the coil fastening occurs. Excessively tight tightening of the nut in both reel seat designs not only does not help, but threatens:

Thread breakage on parts;
jamming of the fixing ring on the foot of the coil;
cracking of the nut frame made of natural cork.

The consequence of this is the cessation of fishing and the subsequent difficult repair of the ENTIRE rod.
All this can be prevented or minimized by using the little tricks below.

❶ - After installing the coil, it is useful to wrap the running nut of the “classic” layout with a tape of medical adhesive plaster 18 mm wide. By grabbing the nut with a part of the thread on the reel seat tube with a plaster, you will immediately get rid of its self-loosening and abrasions on the palm of your hand. It is especially convenient to make such a winding if the reel remains on the rod for a long time, for example, when fishing on vacation. Unlike PVC electrical tape, the adhesive from the patch is easily removed with ordinary vodka.

❷ — Too much play between the spindle nut and the reel seat tube is often the cause of self-loosening. This can be eliminated by wrapping narrow thin tape directly onto the thread of the tube in one layer. The winding must be laid with force so that the threads remain embossed, and only in the place where the nut will be after the coil is in place.

❸ — The main reason for arbitrary unscrewing of the screw reel seat nut of any type is the absence of an elastic element in the system. This is easy to make up for if you put on the ends of the spool foot suitable pieces of PVC cambric or (better) heat shrink tubing. It is easiest to compress it in the form of a paw by dipping it in boiling water. After such a procedure, the coil is very tightly in place, and its branded paint coating will not be scratched even by all-metal clamping rings.

❹ - Sometimes the fly reel during fishing starts to hang out in the reel seat, especially if its foot is adjacent not to a rigid tube, but to a fragile insert made of natural cork. This is fraught with scuffs on the cork and squeezing its surface, which greatly weakens the mount of the reel and spoils the expensive rod. And here the band-aid tape will help out. Stick it directly on the cork under the foot of the coil - the fastening will be much more reliable, and the cork insert will retain its original appearance longer. The same help can be given to spinning rods of the light class, which usually have the same cork insert in the reel seat.

❺ - If the coil is stuck between the fixing rings, and the nut does not turn away, you should not use excessive force, all the more so to grab fragile plastic with various kinds of improvised “graspers” - pliers, pliers, etc. kerosene (in the field - vodka) and after 35 minutes, grabbing the nut tightly with a hand in a household rubber glove, unscrew it with a little effort. After that, wipe all the parts with a clean rag and put the rod and reel in the cases.

❻ - As a preventive measure against jamming of the reel, always after fishing, remove from its foot and from the reel seat (especially carefully - from the thread) the dirt that inevitably forms during fishing. Fish slime, bait particles and baits magically attract sand, which is able to abrade the threads on the plastic and metal parts of the reel seat in less than one season. And replacing it is a rather troublesome and expensive business.

Spinning can be equipped with several types of reels. There are 3 types of spinning reels: inertial, inertialess and multiplier. In this article, we will learn how and which reel to choose for spinning.

Inertial for spinning

The inertial type of coils is the simplest and most inexpensive among others. Due to their simplicity, inertial coils do not need special care. The reel consists of a drum with handles, on which the fishing line is wound and a shaft on which it rests. You can additionally install bearings on the coil, or devices for braking rotation, but they are installed quite rarely. And a very small part of the inertial coils has an automatic braking system.

The design of the inertial coil is strong and reliable compared to other types of coils, and it will take a lot of effort to disable it. Using this reel is extremely simple and pleasant.

The principle of operation is explained by one name of this type of coils. The reel is called inertial if the process of unwinding the fishing line from the drum occurs with the help of rotation from the force of inertia. The force is called when a fisherman casts a spinner or any other bait. Inertial force tends to manifest itself not immediately after casting, but after some time. And the higher the inertia of the drum, the more time passes before the force of inertia sets it in motion.

One of the best inertial coils today is deservedly considered "Nevskaya", and for long years its existence, it does not lose its position in the market. Of the coils of foreign production, it is worth highlighting Hardy And "Orvis".

Spinning reels

Inertialess coils differ from inertial ones both in appearance and in the principle of operation. The principle of operation of these reels lies in the fact that during casting, the fishing line (or braid) flies off the spool without spinning it, but leaving it motionless, which allows you to throw the fishing line strictly in required quantity and prevents tangling. Unlike inertial coils, there is no need to use deceleration. And it also allows you to use much lighter lures and cast longer distances than inertial reels.

Inertialess coils are much more complex in design than inertial ones. In this regard, it needs to be looked after more strongly, and in terms of service life, as well as in terms of cost, it loses to an inertial coil, which, due to its simplicity, is inexpensive and durable.

Almost the best spinning reel for today is Daiwa TD Sol. Due to the expensive materials used to make this reel, this reel may seem overpriced to some, but the effective use justifies all the money invested in it. It is also worth paying attention to the manufacturer's coils Ryobi. Models Ecusima 6 And Excia are among the best on the market in terms of price and quality.

open type

Open spool reels can be comfortable for beginners to use. But at the first acquaintance with these reels, you will need to get used to reeling in the fishing line with the second hand, and the location of the reel is inconvenient - from below the rod. This may seem uncomfortable at first, but after a short time, the beginner will quickly get used to it.

Inertialess reels with an open spool are placed only on straight rods, without bends or “saddle”. The spools themselves are usually made of very high quality, and are designed to take up to ninety meters of line without the use of a backing layer according to the standard. Replacing the spool can be done quickly and easily, often with the push of a button.

closed type

Reels with a closed spool make casting as easy as possible. It even becomes difficult to confuse the line with a closed spool, which makes it easier to use for beginners.

Another advantage of the closed body is the ability to control the line even in very windy conditions. In the case of an open spool, a strong wind can easily rip off additional turns of fishing line around the bracket. When the case is closed, the fishing line is fed through a special hole.

Minuses inertialess:

1. Firstly, the casting distance of the line with the bait is limited. The number of parts that the line rubs against when moving is quite large compared to an open type reel, and this does not allow the fisherman to cast further.
2. Secondly, the fisherman feels much weaker the degree of tension of the fishing line when reeling.
3. Third, the fishing line, passing through a large number of parts, wears out much faster, which increases the risk of it breaking at any time. Becoming rough, it affects the wear of the coil body parts themselves.

In some models, the narrow opening of the line outlet has expanded it to the size of the spool itself. This made it possible to reduce friction much more. Such coils are called semi-closed.

To fix the reel on the rod, it is necessary that it has a special bend for this. The reel is on top of the rod during fishing, which makes the process easier. It is desirable to use a fishing line that is elastic and smooth - this will significantly facilitate its friction on the part of the reel.

Multiplier for spinning

Multiplier type reels (they are also casting reels) are the most expensive and difficult to manufacture, as they combine the qualities of both inertial and inertialess reels: ease of casting and quite good control over tackle.

Advantages multiplier coils:

• Coils are more reliable than any other and can withstand more severe loads. When used, even there is additional confidence.
• Simplicity in design provides additional reliability and durability, even though its operating conditions are often much more stressful.
• Cheaper than spinning reel prices.
• Greater sensitivity and control of the tackle than with other types of reels.
• The location of the reel on the rod and its grip is often much more comfortable than with other reels.

Flaws:

• When choosing light baits, using a multiplier reel becomes somewhat inconvenient.
• brake system reels must be constantly adjusted to a specific bait and place fishing.
• When first used, tangling of the fishing line becomes almost inevitable.

How to increase the catch of fish?

For 7 years of active passion for fishing, I have found dozens of ways to improve the bite. Here are the most effective ones:

1. Biting activator. This pheromone additive lures fish the most in cold and warm water. .
2. Raise gear sensitivity. Read the appropriate manuals for the particular type of tackle.
3. Lures based pheromones.

What to look for when buying

To choose the right coil, it is important to look at all the characteristics at once. Even if it is beautiful and strong at first glance, it is worth finding out the full information about it before making a purchase.

Coil manufacturer

When buying, you should not immediately close yourself from the Chinese manufacturer and ignore the fact that it is not the country of origin that is important, but the specific plant and specific materials. So, for example, the Chinese manufacturer Daiwa has been successful for many years and assembles high-quality coils from durable and corrosion-resistant materials.

Proven manufacturers have been producing high-quality products for many years, which overwhelmingly satisfy all the requirements of the buyer. Such manufacturers of spinning reels include the following:

• Ryobi (Ryobi). China.
• Hardy (Hardy). USA.
• Shimano (Shimano). Japan.
• Daiwa (Daiwa). China.

Body and spool material

You need to pay attention to the material of manufacture. The material can be washed with metal or plastic. Metal cases and spools are strong and reliable, but at the same time heavy, and the paint can easily peel off from them if damaged. Accordingly, plastic or carbon fiber will be much lighter and more convenient in this regard. The plastic can be easily damaged if dropped or hit, and the matte finish may seem unsightly to some people.

In terms of prices, plastic products used to be far ahead of their metal counterparts, but today they have already fallen somewhat in price. The choice of material should be approached responsibly, but no exact recommendations can be given: the choice can only be made based on your own needs and taste. Combinations of plastic and metal are popular, for example, a light spool inside a reliable metal case.

clutch

Friction is considered one of the most important parameters of the reel. With the help of the friction clutch, the tension of the fishing line, which is created by the caught fish, is regulated. If the force applied to the line and rod becomes excessively large (for example, when jerking fish), then the friction clutch begins to loosen the tension of the line, giving up part of it. Typically, the friction brake adjuster is located at the front or rear of the spool. The front clutch is able to work more smoothly, and the rear is in a more comfortable position for the angler.

It is advisable to choose a reel only with verified reviews about the operation of the friction clutch, since a poor-quality option can provoke a breakdown of gear or the loss of a valuable catch.

The stacker of the fishing line plays an important role in the work. If the gear or spool begins to play, the bow begins to wind the line crookedly - the reel can still be used. But if the roller for laying the fishing line begins to wedge, then the work simply stops.

When choosing a reel, you need to calculate what load will fall on the linelayer. It will have a large load and squander kilometers of fishing line. Unreliable lay rollers in budget models can eventually begin to "bite" the fishing line, which can lead to a sudden break.

Ideally, the line layer should be large, with a durable coating. This will give all the guarantees for many years of successful use of spinning.

Coil weight and size

The size of the reel should be chosen based on the conditions of use (for example, when catching large fish, you will need a larger and more powerful reel, spool size from 4000 to 5000) and ease of use along with spinning. The best option will take the rod to the store, on which the reel will subsequently be installed, and try it out.

Ideally, after installation, the center of gravity of the reel should be located at the point where the entire rod is held. In this case, the hand will get tired the least, and this is a very important condition in the case of prolonged fishing. In addition, the reel should not be too large and look harmonious with the rod.

The size of the inertial reel drum affects the amount of line you can spool. Accordingly, a larger reel size will significantly increase the weight of the reel, so the best solution would be to determine the size and length of the fishing line in advance.

For ultralight, choose coils weighing up to 200 grams.

For light and medium up to 300-350 grams.

Reel handle

The handle is not a very important element of the reel, but some points also depend on its correct choice:

• The handle should be comfortable. With heavy loads, the use of the coil should not bring much discomfort.
• The handle must be tightly fastened and withstand heavy loads.
• Wear resistant material.

Attaching the reel to the rod

The reel is attached to the rod with the help of a reel seat, which is located on the handle of the rod. A quality holder will securely hold the reel in a fixed position, so it's important not to overshoot in this situation.

The main requirements that need to be set for the coil fasteners are as follows:

• Strong and reliable fixation of the reel on the rod.
• Good load transfer from the spinning rod to the angler's hand.
• Durable material of manufacture that will not break and thus allow the coil to break under load.

Proper care

In order for the coil to serve for a long time and constantly please with its high-quality work, it must be properly looked after. Many anglers, especially beginners, often neglect these simple rules, and as a result, most often their reels have a relatively short operating time. And, as a rule, fail at the most inopportune moment. And if we consider that today the prices for coils are quite high, then extending their service life can result in one of the most important tasks. Yes, you can take the coil for repair, but why shell out money if you can spend 100 rubles on wipes to wipe the coil elements and lubricant.

Always remember about timely lubrication of the coil. Regardless of the manufacturer, every coil needs this procedure. Each season has its own types of lubrication - at warm temperatures, thicker lubricants are used, and in the cold season, the coils are lubricated with liquid lubricants. The use of simple machine oil as a lubricant is unacceptable, since the oil can provoke corrosion of the material of the coil parts.

Some of the manufacturers make their own lubricant for coils of their own production. This fact should be guided by when choosing a lubricant.

If the coil has been exposed to water, then you need to disassemble it as soon as possible (it is forbidden to rotate the handle while doing this), let it dry and thoroughly lubricate all necessary parts.

For emergency situations, you can take an additional coil with you.

Before using the reel for the first time, it is advisable to run it dry in order to identify possible problems that may arise on the first cast. If a crunch is heard, or the coil is jammed, then you need to disassemble it in a dry and clean place and find out the cause.

Coil Care Video

Rating of the best budget coils

• Ryobi Insider 1000. Gear ratio 5:1, weight 280 grams, Japan.
• Daiwa Sweepfire 1500A. Gear ratio 5.1:1, weight 220 grams, China.
• Flamingo Stringer 2404 HX-F. Gear ratio 5.1:1, weight 250 grams, China.

From inertial coils:

• Salmo Diamond F5600. Graphite, weight 150 grams, Latvia. The price is 512 rubles.
• Lineaeffe Alps Fly. Graphite, weight 110 gr, Italy. 1520 rubles.
• Daiwa Wilderness 200, Graphite, weight 132 grams, China. 1350 rubles.

Among the multipliers it is worth highlighting:

• Salmo Diamond Troll. 489 grams, Gear ratio 4:1. Latvia.
• Daiwa Millionaire S300. Gear ratio 5.2:1, weight 300 grams. China.
• Lineaeffe J.D. Trolling 300. 520 grams. Gear ratio 4:1. The size of the spool is 3000. The country of origin is Italy.

How to wind the line on the reel

Winding fishing line can seem quite difficult for a beginner. To do everything right, you need to re-read a lot of information, or at least the instructions for the purchased coil. But with the right approach, even winding fishing line becomes a simple and even enjoyable experience.

Winding takes place in several stages:

1. First you need to wind the fishing line on the spool of the reel. You need to pay attention to the direction of rotation - some can rotate clockwise and others counterclockwise, it all depends on the fork of the reel. The direction of unwinding the line from the spool must match the direction of rotation of the spool - if the spool rotates counterclockwise, then the line must also unwind counterclockwise. Otherwise, the interlacing of the fishing line will simply not be avoided. To change direction, it will be enough just to turn the coil over.
2. Next, the fishing line needs to tie a new fishing line on the reel. To do this, you need to raise the line holder and skip the end of the new line to the spool. Next, wrap the line around the spool, make a loop at the free end of the line and tie a knot around the loop. The knot must be tightened and carefully cut off the remnants of the fishing line. When using a thin fishing line, you can use electrical tape to secure it so that you do not have to knit a thick knot. The line holder can now be released.
3. Now you need to take the fishing line with two fingers and hold it taut. While the line is stretched, you should wind about sixty centimeters. After that, you need to make sure that the winding is going correctly. If the line is not tangled and is wound correctly, then you can continue to wind it to the end. Otherwise, you need to rewind it back and repeat the sequence of actions again until the desired result is achieved.
4. The fishing line is wound on reaching 6 mm from the edge.

For ease of winding, you can try using a soft cotton cloth. With its help, you can well control the degree of tension of the fishing line when winding, and wind it at almost any speed.

Before winding the line, it would be wise to fully check the performance of the reel and all components. The reel must be well lubricated, the bearings must ensure high-quality and smooth rotation. If technical problems arise during winding, they cannot be avoided during fishing, and there they can result in serious difficulties, for example, in the loss of a trophy catch.

So, everything you need to equip the fishing rod is in store: there are hooks, fishing lines, sets of sinkers and floats, excellent rods are prepared. Now, in order for the parts to become one, they must be connected (mounted). How to tie hooks, leashes to the fishing line, attach a sinker and floats to it has already been described in the relevant sections. And how to attach the fishing line itself with the details sitting on it to the rod? If someone thinks that it is enough to tie the end of the fishing line tightly to the tip of the rod and the fishing rod is ready, he is deeply mistaken. Yes, with such tackle you can go to the reservoir, you can even throw a hook with a nozzle into the chosen place. But it is impossible to pull a more or less decent trophy out of the water - the tip of the rod will certainly be broken and all the tackle will swim away with the fish. In the hands of an unlucky angler, only a mutilated rod will remain.

To prevent such embarrassment from happening, the fishing line is attached to the rod differently. They do it in two ways. And according to how the fishing line is attached, fishing rods are divided into two types: with a “deaf” snap and with a “running” snap.

When mounting a fishing rod with a “deaf” snap, the stock of fishing line is wound on a reel located at the butt, and the working part wraps around the entire rod several times and is passed through a loop of thick fishing line, nylon vein or string specially attached to the tip of the rod.

Fig 13. Motovilce:
I - rod, 2 - half rings (hooks), 3 - winding, 4 - elastic bands, shock absorbers,
5 - fishing line, 6 - retaining rubber rings for the hook

What constitutes a winder is clearly seen in Fig. 13. These are two wire semirings (hooks) facing each other with the backs of their heads, tied to the rod with silk or nylon threads. These hooks are made of copper, brass or other stainless wire 1.5-2 mm thick. The winding feet are flattened. The distance between the hooks is not important, but on a bamboo rod it is better to set them on knots or in close proximity to them. In any case, care must be taken so that the bamboo knots do not interfere with winding and unwinding the fishing line from the reel. In order to have somewhere to hide the hook after fishing, one or two rubber retaining rings are placed in the middle of the reel or pieces of cork are attached.

It is known that after a long stay in the water, the fishing line “sits” a little. If wet line is wound tightly on the reel, it can break the hooks or pull them out of the reel when it dries. Rubber shock absorbers will help prevent an accident. They are pulled across the hooks, while the backs of the half-rings must be bent so that the shock absorbers do not jump off them.

Not an idle question - where to place the reel? Of course, where it is more convenient! But... if the rod is solid. And even then - it is more expedient on the butt. The line wrapped along the entire length of the rod absorbs better and dampens the desperate jerks of the caught fish. Well, if the rod is composite or telescopic? There can be no doubt - only on the butt. And then, after all, the hour is not even, the upper knee, when casting, can jump out one day, including together with the reel. And then... goodbye fishing!

There is no consensus on how to attach the fishing line to the tip of the rod with a “deaf” snap. Some authors of amateur fishing manuals advise using a nipple gum worn on a fishing line, a piece of vinyl chloride tubing, and all kinds of protection. It seems that all these recommendations are unacceptable. Firstly, with such an attachment, the load when playing the prey does not fall on the entire rod, but only on its tip, as with a blind garter. Secondly, it also has a number of disadvantages. For example, it was necessary to increase or decrease the length of the working part of the line - pull the tip of the rod towards you, remove the tube, and only then can you start fishing.

Rice. 14. Attaching the line to the rod with
using a loop

There is no need to do anything if to the tip of the rod, stepping back from the tip of 8-10 mm, attach a small ring of thick (0.5-0.8 mm) nylon vein or some string. The fishing line wrapped around the rod at the end is folded into a loop, passed into a tied ring and thrown over the top of the rod. Fastening is ready. Fast, reliable and, most importantly, allows you to quickly maneuver the length of the working part of the scaffold. By the way, a fishing rod with a “deaf” rig should not have a line longer than the rod by more than 1.5 meters, otherwise the angler will not be able to make an aimed cast and pull the prey towards him. Rods with a "deaf" snap are used mainly for catching small fish.

More perfect is the "running" tackle. Instead of a reel, a reel is placed on such a fishing rod, and along the entire length of the rod at a certain distance from each other, the so-called “throughput” rings are wound: a threaded fishing line goes along them back and forth. The advantages of "running" tackle are that it allows you to cast a bait far (especially with a sliding float), quickly maneuver the length of the line, and even on a thin leash to play large prey.

The qualities of a "running" tackle are largely determined by the reel. Its purpose is to increase or decrease the working part of the fishing line. The reel should be light, strong, have enough line supply, have a good spin and a reliable brake. All these requirements are met by coils produced by the domestic industry. Their range is quite wide.

A small (4-6 cm in diameter) reel of the simplest design is suitable for a float fishing rod. It consists of a body with an axis and a foot for mounting it on a rod and a drum (bobbin) rotating on this axis with handles. A braking device is mounted on the body.

Rice. 15. Spool with bobbin for float
fishing rods

To put the reel on the rod, a special handle is made on the butt. It can be made of cork, foam, wood, and other suitable materials. Making a pen is not difficult at home. The best material is cork. But since it is not easy to find it today, you can use foam. Of course, it would be nice to put a solid piece of polystyrene 20-25 cm long on the butt. But ... you can’t drill a through axial hole of the desired diameter in it without a special device. Therefore, the pen has to be type-setting. Cut out 6-7 pieces of foam 3-4 cm thick and punch an axial hole in each of them with a gun case of the appropriate caliber. Of course, the edges of the sleeve or other suitable tube must first be sharpened. Then these glued pieces are put on the rod, dried and processed. To make the handle sit more securely on the butt, the ring pieces are pulled together (wrapped) with cord or other strong threads before drying.

The foam handle can be made in another way. A foam block 20 cm long is sawn lengthwise into two equal parts and a groove is cut in each half according to the diameter of the rod. Then these halves are smeared with glue, applied to the butt, and tightly wrapped with twine along the entire length. After drying, the handle is treated with a knife, rasp and sandpaper. True, the reliability of such a handle is lower than that made from separate pieces.

lower part it is useful to equip handles with a buffer. It is made in a lenticular shape from a piece of hard rubber and screwed to the end of the rod with a long screw. The buffer performs two functions: it protects the fisherman's clothes from possible hooks with tackle and serves as an additional load to shift the center of gravity of the rod closer to the fisherman's hand.

Rice. 16. Rod handle made from corks:
a - reel seats (conical rings), b - cones, c - buffer

By the way - about the center of gravity. Do this simple maneuver. Take an unequipped rod by the butt, hold it horizontally for a minute and mentally estimate how much it weighs. Now lift the rod up by its middle leg and you will notice that it has become much “lighter”. So, to make the rod lighter, it is often filled with ... lead. Yes, yes, 150-200 grams and more! True, only in the butt part. This shifts the center of gravity of the rod and makes it easier for the angler to control the tackle. For this purpose, both the reel and the reel are placed as close as possible to the butt.

The buffer can also be made from a rubber tip for a crutch (sold in pharmacies). You don't need to screw it in. Shortened by a third or half, it is easily pulled over the lower end of the handle.

However, before installing the buffer, it is necessary to equip the handle with a device for attaching the coil. The simplest is two rings of a rubber hose 1.5-2 cm wide. If the coil does not need to be removed every time, it can be tied tightly to the handle with electrical tape or adhesive tape. There are several designs of metal and plastic reel seats on the market. Many factory rods are also equipped with them.

An essential detail of the "running" gear are the access rings. They serve to pass (hence the name) the fishing line from the reel to the tip of the rod, do not allow it to sag and disperse the load from the weight of the fish along the entire length of the rod. Rings should be light, strong, with a well-polished inner surface in order to pass the line without friction. They are made of steel or brass wire, porcelain, agate mineral, plastic, and other materials and are sold in a large assortment in sports stores. The most reliable (but expensive) are agate and chrome-plated steel rings. The ring, designed to be mounted on the tip of the rod, is called the end ring and has the shape of a "tulip", that is, it is equipped with side racks that protect it from overlapping the line.

Rice. 17. Metal reel seat
body

The question of how many guides to put on a rod does not have a clear answer. But practice shows: if you set a lot, you will break the gear system, the fishing line will experience increased friction during movement. You put a little - and even worse: the fishing line will begin to sag in the spans, sail in the wind, certain sections of the rod will be unevenly loaded. For two-meter rods of normal elasticity, 3-4 rings can be considered sufficient; for rods with a length of 2 to 3 meters - 4-5 rings; 3-4 meters long - 5-6 rings. A more accurate number of rings is determined taking into account the qualities, structure and purpose of each particular rod.

But there is no dispute among fishermen about where to install the rings. To determine the attachment points, a fairly simple method is used. At the intended points, the rings are temporarily (so that they can be moved) tied with a thread. A line is passed through them and a load from 100 grams to 1 kilogram is suspended from its free end (depending on the power of the rod). Then they put the rod at an angle of 45 degrees and, moving the rings, make sure that all the deflections between the rings are equal, that is, the distance from the rod shaft to the fishing line stretched between the rings (clearance) is the same in all spans (a1 = a2 = = a3 = = a4). The first ring is recommended to be placed 90 cm from the coil.

When the installation points are finally determined, the rings are fixed: the paws are tied to the rod with silk or nylon thread, and the winding is varnished.

Rice. 18. Samples of end and through rings

Rice. 19. Installation of through-rings

Rice. 20. Winding rings

A neat and reliable winding can be done in the following way: next to the foot (parallel to it), the end of the thread is placed and attached to the rod along with the foot; before the last four or five turns of the thread, a small loop of thread or thin soft wire is placed under it and is also attached to the rod; then the end of the thread with which the winding was made is passed through the loop and with its help is pulled under the winding. It has been noticed that the threads are wound better and then hold the ring stronger if they are pre-soaked in water. After the winding dries, it is covered with nitro-lacquer.

The situation with the installation of a telescopic fishing rod is somewhat more complicated. The reel and reel on the "telescope" are mounted according to the same principles as on other rods. True, there is no need to build a handle for the coil here, since the butt tube of the “telescope”, as a rule, has a thickness sufficient for this. But you can’t attach rings to the middle of the tubes - in this case the rod will not work out.

There are two solutions to the problem. The first is to buy removable access rings in the store. They are light, comfortable, with the help of small pads of electrical tape, they can be installed at any calculated point. But... they are very fragile. The fishing line wipes them almost in one fishing trip, and they break from the slightest accidental blow or hit.

The second is to put rings made of pins on the upper ends of the tubes. Although this method has significant drawbacks, for example, the load from the weight of the caught fish will not be distributed fairly evenly throughout the rod and you won’t fold it completely into the stowed position, however, many fishermen prefer just such a winding of the rings to the “telescope”. Why? The compactness of the gear is slightly disturbed, but it is brought into working condition very quickly. To do this, it is enough to remove the coil from the brake and manually pull out all the tubes one by one (starting from the top) until they stop. If the fishing rod is equipped with a reel, the supply of fishing line is first removed from it for two lengths of the rod.

Rice. 21. Removable access rings

An angler's dream is a telescopic rod with a hollow tip: he does not need any guides! The fishing line in such a rod is placed inside, and its working end goes out through the axial hole of the tip. Light, elegant such a tackle. The angler is spared excess weight(there are no rings with winding), the fishing line does not “sail” in the wind, the load from the caught fish is distributed evenly along the entire length of the rod.

There are two ways to thread the line into the rod. Since this is far from simple, you should strictly adhere to the developed technologies!

Method one. In a rubber (plastic) cap, which closes the bottom of the butt tube, a hole with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm is made in the center with heated silt (nail). They wind off a part of the fishing line from the reel (reel) one and a half to two lengths of one knee, thread it into the cap hole, and then pass it through the thinnest (central) tube of the rod. For ease of use, it is better to remove this tube from the others, and then insert it already with a tucked fishing line. The fishing line passed through the tip of the rod must be secured so that it does not slip back. Then assemble the knees, close the butt tightly with a cap - and the tackle is ready for further equipment (you can hang a float, sinker, knit leashes with hooks).

Fishing line, especially thin, is sometimes difficult to push through the tip of the rod - it twists and does not go. A simple device, a “flexible needle”, helps to facilitate this operation. A thin (0.7-0.8 mm) piece of copper or brass wire is taken (it should be 20-25 cm longer than the butt knee) and an eyelet is made at one end. The working end of the fishing line is inserted into this eye (like a thread into a needle), then the “flexible needle” is passed from the wide end through the central (with a tip) tube of the rod and pulls the fishing line behind it.

A “flexible needle” must be stored and carried on a fishing trip: a small wire coil on a foam reel is not a burden, and without this device, you cannot fill a fishing line, especially wet, into a rod.

Rice. 22. Ways to fill the fishing line in a telescopic rod:
a - first, b - second

It must be said that the above method of filling the fishing line has a serious drawback: when playing fish, the fishing line does not go directly to the reel, but works “for a break”. This creates additional resistance, the fishing line quickly wears out against the walls of the cap. You can avoid this if you fill the fishing line differently.

Method two. The butt tube is freed from all other tubes. Centimeters 25-30 above the attached coil (or the place where the removable coil should be installed), a small (3-4 mm in length) oval hole is made in the wall of the butt (widest) tube. The part of the fishing line wound from the reel is threaded into this hole and taken out ... towards the butt. After that, the fishing line is threaded with the help of a “flexible needle”, as in the first way, into the central (apex) tube. Then the rod is assembled, making sure that the line is not squeezed between the tubes.

With this method of refilling, the fishing line even turns out to be on a double “break”: it goes up from the reel, after the hole it turns down, then it goes up again along the central knee. But such a zigzag is not terrible. The fishing line will be “at a break” only when the rod is not in working condition. As soon as it is straightened to its full length, the fishing line will straighten up and will walk through the tubes as freely as through the throughput rings.

Rice. 23. Shapes of carabiners
When using tackle with a line tucked in, one should also remember the following rule: after catching, the fishing rod must be folded, starting from the top knee, while constantly holding the line so that it does not fall between the walls and jam the tubes.

To finish talking about the construction of a float rod - this most versatile amateur fishing tool, we need to talk about one more small but important detail - a carbine.

Rice. 24. Float rod assembly:
a - with a blind snap, b - with a "running snap"; 1 - rod, 2 - connecting
tubes, 3 - reel, 4 - end loops, 5 - fishing line, 6 - float,
7 - sinker, 8 - hook, 9 - handle with fungus (buffer) and coil; 10 -
coil holder from bonus rings, 11 - screw holder, 12 - lamellar
holder, 13 - throughput rings, 14 - end ring (tulip)

Carabiners (swivels) are designed to counteract the twisting of the fishing line. They are made of steel or brass and come in many shapes. The main advantages of the carbine are good rotation and durable parts. On float rod a carabiner is placed between the main line and the leash and prevents the nozzle rotating from movement in the water from twisting the main line.

The carbine is also good because without a radical re-equipment of the fishing rod, with just a change of leashes, it allows you to quickly adapt the tackle for catching fish of various sizes.

When mounting a fishing rod, all its parts are selected depending on the expected production. For catching small fish, they put a thin fishing line, a small hook, a small sinker and a very sensitive float. For medium-sized fish (weighing up to 1 kg), you need a fishing line with a section of 0.25-0.3 mm with a carabiner and a leash (0.18-0.20 mm.) big fish, especially a predator, can be pulled out of the water only on a thick (0.4-0.8 mm) fishing line and on a large (No. 8.5-14) hook. In a word, we must try to ensure that all parts of the fishing rod are “coordinated”, nothing violates its “system”.

At the same time, one cannot fail to note such a trend. There are more and more fishermen who prefer to have one rod for different occasions. Most often, it consists of a telescopic rod 3-4 m long, a medium-sized bobbin (inertial) reel, interchangeable floats and sinkers, as well as interchangeable leashes of different lengths and sections. The main fishing line is set with a section of 0.3-0.35 mm. By promptly changing (depending on fishing conditions) floats, sinkers and leashes, the angler can fish in standing and running water, aground and at depth, in coastal thickets and far from the coast.