How to knit a middle conductor knot. Knots in mountaineering and mountain tourism

Outwardly, this knot is very similar to the burlatsky loop, but it is considered more reliable and practical in its application. This node is also called in marine terminology as riding loop.

This is a fairly common marine knot, which is somewhat specific in its application. Typically, it is knitted in the middle of a rope or cable to create a ring for hooking a hook with a suspended load or for securing another rope or wires. The Alpine guide, as you probably already guessed, is not a fixed knot, it can "ride" in any direction. Not the easiest way to tie, but very effective.

Node application

Such a node is used quite widely. It is often used in maritime affairs, in factories and manufacturing enterprises, in fishing tackle, mountaineering, touring sports in everyday life. The main purpose of such a knot is to create a stable loop in the middle of a rope or cable under tension, with the possibility of moving along the rope itself. With this task, the driving loop does an excellent job!

Tying the knot "Austrian Explorer"

Node diagram

Knot tying step by step

1. To begin with, we take one whole rope and bend it in the middle so that we get a loop;
2. We set the estimated diameter of the loop and twice and wrap it along its axis;
3. Now we bend the loop in the opposite direction and wrap it around the base of the rope once;
4. We push the edge of the loop, bending forward, into the hole between the windings;
5. We tighten the loop and fix the knot. The driving loop is ready!

Video

Video on how to tie Austrian loop conductor:

Austrian conductor - a knot related to non-tightening loops. This is one of the most famous and popular knots in mountaineering. Although this knot cannot be called purely mountaineering, since it has long been known in maritime affairs, from where it was borrowed, and today it can be used not only in mountaineering and at sea, but also in everyday life when a reliable non-tightening loop is needed.

Austrian conductor

Other names of the Austrian conductor are also known, for example, the node of the third, the node of the middle, the middle conductor, the bergschaft and the riding loop. Also, sometimes this node is called the middle conductor, which is not entirely correct (in any case, I did not come across this name in the literature).

Often Austrian conductor called an alpine butterfly or simply a butterfly. But this is a mistake. The Alpine Butterfly is a completely different knot that is knitted differently and used for other purposes, although outwardly it is difficult to distinguish it from the Austrian conductor. In the video I explain these nuances:

Bergshaft properties

This knot has a number of advantages, thanks to which it has gained wide popularity among people who often have to use a rope in their line of work.

Among the advantages of the Austrian conductor are the following:

• He is reliable.
• Doesn't crawl.
• It can be tied both in the middle of the rope and at its end.
• After loading, it is relatively easy to untie.
• It has a high efficiency (51-53%), that is, it relatively slightly reduces the strength of the rope.

Another beauty of this knot is that after applying heavy loads, it is relatively easy to untie.

But he also has disadvantages in comparison, for example, with such popular knots as the Flemish loop (eight) and. We list some of them:

• The Austrian conductor is relatively difficult to knit.
• The correctness of the node is difficult to determine "by eye".
• It is not recommended to knit an Austrian conductor at the end of a rope if a person's life depends on it.

However, with some experience in knitting the Austrian conductor and its correct use, these shortcomings are not of particular importance.

Appointment of an Austrian guide

In mountaineering, the main purpose of the Austrian guide is to create additional attachment points on the main rope. It is also needed to secure the middle participant in a bunch of climbers. By the way, that is why the Austrian conductor got the name of the node of the middle and middle conductor.

In this bundle, intermediate participants are included with the help of Austrian conductors.

With this knot, you can make a rope ladder. On the rope, loops are tied relatively close to each other. When climbing vertically fixed rope a person inserts his legs into these loops and clings to them with his hands. But from my experience I can say that the use of such a ladder requires a lot of rope and considerable physical effort. Instead of a rope ladder, it is better to use the free end of the rope for lifting, with which to tie the harness and Blake's grasping knot.

An Austrian conductor can also isolate an unreliable section of the rope. For example, if the rope has been damaged or even broken in some place, this fragment of it must be placed in the center of the Austrian handler's loop. From here, by the way, it becomes clear that it is possible to tie two ropes using the scheme of this knot. I have even tied two ropes of different diameters with this knot - the knot held securely and did not untie. But this option is valid only if the life of a person does not depend on the reliability of the node.

Based on this knot, you can make a stretcher out of a rope. To do this, a number of loops of the Austrian conductor are tied on the rope to the middle, the free end of the rope is passed through these loops with a blind loop, and four more loops are added along the edges of the resulting rectangular structure, for which it is supposed to carry a person lying or sitting in a rope stretcher. However, this design is knitted for a long time and is therefore only suitable in cases where other stretcher options are not available.

By passing the root end of the rope into a small loop of the Austrian conductor, you can get a tightening loop, which is convenient to use, for example, in homemade traps.

In fact, there are many more uses for this knot: it can be tied almost anywhere where a reliable, non-tightening loop is required.

How to tie this knot?

I know five ways to knit this knot. I propose to consider them.

Method number 1 (classic):

1. The rope is horizontal.
2. Its middle rotates 360 degrees - a pattern is obtained in the form of the number "8", located at the bottom of the rope.
3. The lower loop of the "eight" covers the upper one - the resulting "eight" seems to break at the point of overlap approximately in the middle.
4. The lower loop is pulled up a little more, wound up through the main rope and threaded into a double loop formed by the lower and upper loops of the figure-eight.

This method is convenient for visual memorization. It is slow enough, but simple, so it can be used when faster options could not be remembered. The video shows the implementation of this method:

Method number 2 (for quick knitting):

1. The running end of the rope is thrown over the index finger.
2. The running end is circled behind the brush, brought out to the left of the root end and again pounces on the brush between the index and thumb - an overlap is obtained on the palm.
3. The running end makes another turn around the brush and pounces on the brush to the right of the second turn - two overlaps are obtained.
4. The middle of the second coil (the one to the left) located in the palm of your hand is retracted to the right and pushed from right to left under all the coils.
5. The loop is removed, the knot is tightened.

The photo shows the order of this knitting method:

This method, compared with the previous one, allows you to tie the Austrian conductor much faster.

Method number 3 (another option for quick knitting):

1. The right hand is located in front of you, the fingers are directed to the left, the palm is towards you.
2. The running end of the rope by throwing it over the palm makes two turns around the brush from right to left.
3. Left arm winds up hanging down below right hand running end so that it is in the palm of the left hand.
4. The left hand, together with the running end, is brought towards itself so that the root end is behind the left hand.
5. The fingers of the left hand from under the right coil capture the middle of the left coil of the rope lying on the right hand.
6. The captured middle in the form of a loop is pulled to the left, while dropping the running end of the rope from the left hand.
7. The loop is intercepted by the right hand and clamped between the index and middle fingers.
8. The turns from the right hand are thrown to the left, the knot is tightened.

This method, despite the greater number of points in the mating algorithm, is actually faster than the previous one. This is my favorite way to tie an Austrian conductor in just 3 seconds.

Method number 4 (for a long rope):

1. The right hand is located in front of you, the fingers are directed to the left, the palm is towards you.
2. The running end of the rope, throwing it over the palm, makes three turns around the brush from right to left.
3. The middle of the middle coil, lying on the palm, is pushed under the leftmost coil, then taken out, turned to the right and pushed from right to left between the palm and all the coils.
4. The loop is removed, the knot is tightened.

This option is slower than the previous one, but makes it easy to tie a knot, even if you have to work with a long rope with a large mass.

We considered the options when the Austrian handler knits in the middle of the rope. Now consider an option that will allow you to tie this knot with one end of the rope.

Method number 5 (one end):

1. The rope is located horizontally, the running end of the rope is on the right.
2. The running end makes a turn clockwise and is placed on top of the root - a peg is obtained.
3. The running end is pushed from bottom to top into the resulting peg - a simple knot is obtained.
4. A loop is formed by the running end from the bottom of the main rope, after which the running end is pushed back into a simple knot just to the right of the place where it entered the peg - a running simple knot is obtained.
5. The running end is passed behind the loop from right to left - a double loop is formed to the right of the loop.
6. The running end is thrown through the previously formed loop and pushed from top to bottom into the double loop.
7. The knot is tightened.

This option is knitted longer than all the others, but, as mentioned earlier, it allows you to tie the Austrian conductor with one end, which is very convenient, for example, for attaching a rope to a closed support, on which it is impossible to throw a finished loop.

Mistakes in knitting the Austrian conductor are mainly associated with fast knitting methods: in the "classic" version, it is difficult to make a mistake due to its simplicity.

IN fast ways knitting errors can occur due to inattention and ignorance of the correct way to tie a knot, which will lead to the formation of a knot that resembles an Austrian conductor, but is not one. I don’t see the point in listing all the errors: due to the variety of knitting methods, there can be quite a lot of such errors. I can only say that in order to quickly knit a knot, you need to clearly follow the instructions and, for self-control, compare the resulting knot with a knot tied according to the classical scheme.

How to untie an Austrian conductor

If you do not know how to properly untie this knot, after a strong load on the rope, difficulties may arise.

In fact, the technique for untying this knot is similar to the technique for untying the bowline and figure eight, and is called "breaking".

In order to facilitate the task of untying, the loops of the Austrian conductor, located on the sides of the center of the knot and wrapping around the ends of the rope emerging from the knot, must be moved along these ends, as if broken. In this case, the knot is partially weakened - and it is not difficult to untie it.

The video shows this way of untying this knot:

Austrian guide and alpine butterfly - how not to confuse these knots?

These two knots could be called twins for their similarity: an uninitiated person is unlikely to be able to see the difference unless he is hinted that there are two different knots in front of him. It is not for nothing that the Austrian conductor is often called a butterfly.

But, like any twins, these nodes have their own small differences in both “appearance” and “character”. So, for example, an alpine butterfly can be used for shock absorption during a jerk, but an Austrian conductor is absolutely not suitable for this.

If you place the Alpine butterfly and the Austrian conductor with the loops up, then in the Alpine butterfly the upper loop, which clamps the large loop in the knot, can be removed from this loop, resulting in a running simple knot. With an Austrian guide, this trick will not work, since the top loop is held by the bottom loop.

Alpine butterfly - it is clearly seen that the two sections of the rope between the vertical sections do not intersect.

As you can see, the Austrian conductor can still be distinguished from a butterfly, but in case of doubt it is much easier to tie it up again instead of looking for minor differences and doubting the correctness of the connected knot: they are painfully similar.

Personally, I really like the Austrian conductor. I use it in almost any situation where you need to get a non-tightening loop, for example for:

• fastening the rope to one reliable support or several unreliable ones;
• tying a rope into the lower system, which in turn is tied from the same rope;
• rope tension when using the chain hoist system;
• the formation of several loops on a horizontally located rope for hanging various objects on them.

Also, more often than with other knots, I use an Austrian conductor to tie ropes, including ropes of different diameters.

This knot is reliable, does not creep, knits faster than the Flemish loop and bowline, and in terms of efficiency it is not worse than these two knots. At the same time, the Austrian conductor is easier to untie than the aforementioned figure eight, and even more so oak knot, which is often used to tie two ropes by people who are not related to either tourism or maritime affairs. As for me, this node is too good to be ignored and not implemented in tourism and everyday life.

Austrian conductor
Austrian conductor
Canonical name	Austrian conductor
Synonyms	Alpine Butterfly, Knot of the Third, Knot of the Middle, median conductor, Bergshaft, Riding loop
Category	Non-tightening loops
Efficiency	51-53% between main ends 67% with loop
Related Nodes	Connecting Austrian conductor
Decoupling	Doesn't drag on
Application	intermediate aids, removing a piece of broken rope from work
Knot book	331, 1053

Austrian conductor( central conductor) - used to organize attachment points on the base rope and for attachment in the bundle of the middle participant, for which he received his second common name. The knot is notable for the fact that it is easy, in comparison with the eight, to be untied and equally well tightened in both directions. When jerking from one side, it does not slide along the rope. Do not confuse(!) with the "Butterfly" knot, which has shock-absorbing properties and an outwardly similar pattern.

Advantages

• Small decrease in rope strength;
• Does not slip and does not tighten;
• Works in any of the three directions;
• Easily untied after the load applied to it;

Flaws

• Difficult to tie with one hand
• It is difficult to tie when hands are in mittens (relevant for mountaineering)
• It is difficult to change the size of the loop;
• It is visually difficult to determine the correct tying

Easy tying method Austrian guide	Austrian step guide

Usage

• It is used for fastening in a bunch of the middle participant on the route;
• For tying a rope to the main and intermediate fasteners;
• Does not apply as a shock-absorbing unit;
• For temporary isolation of a defective (broken) piece of working rope.

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Notes

Classification Places Basic climbing equipment Other climbing equipment Climbing equipment Rope Knots Insurance and self-insurance

An excerpt characterizing the Austrian conductor (knot)

- Come for tea. The prince will come out now, - said the voice of the maid from behind the door.
She woke up and was horrified at what she was thinking. And before going down, she got up, entered the figurative and, gazing at the black face of the large image of the Savior illuminated by the lamp, stood in front of him with her hands folded for several minutes. There was an agonizing doubt in Princess Mary's soul. Is it possible for her to enjoy the joy of love, earthly love for a man? In thoughts of marriage, Princess Mary dreamed of both family happiness and children, but her main, strongest and most hidden dream was earthly love. The feeling was the stronger, the more she tried to hide it from others and even from herself. My God, she said, how can I suppress these thoughts of the devil in my heart? How can I renounce evil thoughts forever so that I can calmly do Your will? And as soon as she made this question, God already answered her in her own heart: “Desire nothing for yourself; do not seek, do not worry, do not envy. The future of the people and your fate must be unknown to you; but live so as to be ready for anything. If it pleases God to test you in the duties of marriage, be ready to do His will.” With this soothing thought (but still with the hope of fulfilling her forbidden, earthly dream), Princess Mary, sighing, crossed herself and went downstairs, not thinking about her dress, or her hair, or about how she would enter and what she would say. What could all this mean in comparison with the predestination of God, without whose will not a single hair will fall from a human head.

When Princess Mary entered the room, Prince Vasily and his son were already in the living room, talking with the little princess and m lle Bourienne. When she entered with her heavy gait, stepping on her heels, the men and m lle Bourienne rose, and the little princess, pointing at her to the men, said: Voila Marie! [Here is Marie!] Princess Marya saw everyone and saw them in detail. She saw the face of Prince Vasily, which for a moment seriously stopped at the sight of the princess and immediately smiled, and the face of the little princess, who read with curiosity on the faces of the guests the impression that Marie would make on them. She saw m lle Bourienne with her ribbon and pretty face and animated, as never before, a look directed at him; but she could not see him, she only saw something big, bright and beautiful moving towards her when she entered the room. First, Prince Vasily approached her, and she kissed the bald head, which bent over her hand, and answered his words that, on the contrary, she remembers him very well. Then Anatole approached her. She still hasn't seen him. She only felt a gentle hand, firmly taking her, and lightly touched her white forehead, over which beautiful blond hair was pomaded. When she looked at him, his beauty struck her. Anatop, laying thumb with his right hand behind the buttoned button of his uniform, with his chest arched forward, and back with his back, shaking one leg aside and slightly bowing his head, silently, cheerfully looked at the princess, apparently not thinking about her at all. Anatole was not resourceful, not quick and not eloquent in conversations, but he had, on the other hand, the ability of calmness, precious to the world, and unalterable confidence. Shut up at the first meeting, a not self-confident person and show the consciousness of the indecency of this silence and the desire to find something, and it will not be good; but Anatole was silent, shaking his leg, cheerfully observing the princess's hairdo. It was evident that he could remain silent so calmly for a very long time. “If anyone is uncomfortable with this silence, then talk, but I don’t want to,” his appearance seemed to say. In addition, in dealing with women, Anatole had that manner that most of all inspires curiosity, fear and even love in women - a manner of contemptuous consciousness of his superiority. It was as if he was telling them with his appearance: “I know you, I know, but why bother with you? And you would be glad!” It may be that he did not think this when he met women (and it is even probable that he did not, because he did not think much at all), but such was his appearance and such manner. The princess felt this and, as if wanting to show him that she did not even dare to think of occupying him, she turned to the old prince. The conversation was general and lively, thanks to the voice and the sponge with the mustache, rising above the white teeth of the little princess. She met Prince Vasily with that trick of a joke, which is often used by talkatively cheerful people and which consists in the fact that between a person who is treated like that and herself, some long-established jokes and funny, partly not known to everyone, amusing memories are assumed, then as there are no such memories, as there were none between the little princess and Prince Vasily. Prince Vasily willingly succumbed to this tone; the little princess drew into this recollection of never-before funny incidents and Anatole, whom she hardly knew. M lle Bourienne also shared these common memories, and even Princess Mary felt with pleasure that she was drawn into this cheerful memory.

TOOLKIT

NODES

CHARACTERISTIC

AND PURPOSE

ROPE DETAILS

According to the functional use, the ropes are divided into main and auxiliary. With the help of the main ropes, insurance is also provided. They are also used as carriers when working at height. Auxiliary are designed to provide secondary actions: safety net, quickdraws, tying and pulling out loads. The thickness of the produced ropes is different. The main ones, as a rule, have a diameter of 9.10.5.11.12.13 mm. As auxiliary ropes, either the main ropes or special ropes of a smaller diameter (cords) are used. Domestic cord has a diameter of 6-7 mm. In addition to auxiliary purposes, the cord is also used in insurance chains for "self-safety" loops (in the chain, the main safety rope is a grasping knot - a cord - a carabiner - a climber). According to modern requirements, the main rope must withstand 5 pulls of dropping a load of 80 kg with an excess of 2.5 meters above the anchor point with an interval of 5 minutes. Only control samples are subjected to this test. After testing, the ropes are not suitable for use. Since work at height is usually associated with the static nature of loads, ropes are usually used that do not dampen the jerk. The elastic properties of the rope, necessary to dampen the jerk during such work, will become a hindrance. The rope designed to dampen the jerk during a fall is called "dynamic", and the other "static" (for simplicity, they say "dynamics" or "statics"). They differ in the amount of tension under load. So dynamics stretches by about 3.5%, and statics by 1.5%. If the working conditions are such that there is a possibility of a fall - in this case, it is necessary to use ropes and belay techniques, and appropriate safety devices (shock absorbers, braking devices).

With the deterioration of the operating conditions of the ropes (Direct sunlight, sharp bends, wetting, paint ingress, etc.), their strength is greatly reduced. For example, when the rope is bent around a bar with a diameter of 10 mm (carbine), the strength drops by 10%. And with a bend radius of 1 mm, the rope may not withstand the first breakdown in real conditions. In knots, there is also a decrease in the strength of the ropes, this is about 30%. When wet, the strength of the rope will also decrease by about 30%. When the rope is exposed to various media, such as solvents, paints, cements, etc., its strength decreases. For example, dyeing a rope with aniline dyes showed a decrease in its strength by 2-4 times. When performing work on industrial facilities, the rope is subjected to stress mainly due to descents and ascents along it.

According to foreign standards (respectively, for ropes), the carrier and safety rope should be replaced after a maximum of three years or 400 runs.

After that, the ropes are used until complete rejection for another year as auxiliary and transport ropes. Then they get married for good. When stored in a cool darkened room after 4-5 years, the strength of the rope decreases so much that it cannot withstand a single test failure. For the cord, tests have shown that after two years of storage, the static strength is 480 kilograms / force (kgf) and after three years already 280 kgf. Passport static breaking strength of a new cord is 600-700 kgf. The aging process is accelerated when stored in light, especially in direct sunlight. The standard shelf life of domestic rope under normal conditions is two years. Modern ropes sometimes have two strands inside, which are marked with the year of manufacture. An absolute factor in the rejection of the rope is a serious breakdown of the climber with a free fall and hanging on it. According to manufacturers, a “serious” stall is considered when the jerk factor is greater than one. The jerk factor or fall coefficient is the ratio of the depth of free fall of the leader (along the line of water fall) to the length of the rope given out by the belayer. Indirectly characterizes the jerk force per unit length of the rope. Maximum value equals two. The rope rejected after the breakdown can no longer be used anywhere. Including use some part of it for binding, safety loops. Affects the decrease in the strength of the rope and work with clamps that break its sheath. It is very important to choose those designs of clips that spare her as much as possible. If heavily soiled, the rope can be washed in lukewarm water using neutral detergents (powders for washing baby clothes, hand washing, toilet soap, etc.) ideal use detergents from rope manufacturers.

Often, dust and dirt not visible to the eye can create significant abrasive effects that greatly affect the strength of the rope. Ropes should be stored in a bay suspended in cool dark rooms. The ends of the rope must be melted to prevent unraveling. The same storage conditions for the cord.

If you decide to go mountain climbing, the first thing you should know is knots. There are several main nodes (about 10) without which it will not be possible to do. You must be able to knit them quickly, in the dark, with your eyes closed and even behind your back. Each node has its own purpose. At different knots, the ropes come out of the knot in different ways. So, for example, if you tie a "figure eight" and pull its "tails" in different sides- the knot works on a break. This knot is suitable, for example, for hanging a rope on a carabiner for some kind of met. construction. But if you need the knot to work on a stretched rope in the middle, it is better to use the Rope Ladder knot.

MAIN KNOTS

NODE "EXPLORER"

I - loop, II - one end

Ease of tying, easy to knit with one hand. The disadvantage of the knot is that it tightens heavily under load. It is recommended to insert a hook into the plexus of the knot, “click” the carabiner. The conductor is used for tying to the middle of the rope, if there is no safety system, as well as for tying ropes - two conductors at the ends of the ropes are connected with a carabiner.

The knot is used frequently. Has a tendency to "creep", especially on hard ropes. Requires the imposition of a control node. With this knot, the strength of the rope drops by about 30-40%.

NODE "EIGHT"

This knot is most often used for tying ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm to supports, also a knot for tying. Strongly tightened under load. Its strength is up to 55% (the strength of the knot is determined relative to the declared strength of the rope). Forms a double loop, which increases its tensile strength. Doesn't crawl. Under load, it tightens up a lot.

NODE "NINE"

Its most valuable property is that of all the nodes used so far, it has the highest strength - up to 70 - 74%. This leads to an increase in the practical strength of the rope.

Its use is especially expedient for a rope with a diameter of 9 mm, the strength of which from the very beginning is less than the strength of ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm.

"GASOLINE" KNOT

Not to be confused with the bowline knot. They are very similar, but still different.

KNOT SINGLE "BOWLINE"

Despite the amazing compactness of the bowline contains elements simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. The elements of all these knots give the bowline the right to be considered universal.

The advantage of bowline knots is the ease of tying and untying after removing the load from the rope. Belonging to the group of so-called "arbor knots", bowline knots form a loop that does not tighten under load, due to which they can in some cases be used for mutual insurance for tying a chest harness. The strength of "single and double bowline" is almost the same - up to 52 - 53%. After tying the knot single bowline"A control knot must be made at the free end. When tying a knot, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that its formation is carried out by the control end of the rope. Otherwise, it will not be a bowline, but a clew knot."

KNOT DOUBLE "BOWLINE"

Allows you to make loops of both the same and different lengths. To make the drawing of the knot correct, it is necessary to pull out the loop "A" completely in the opposite direction from the loops "B" (1), then tighten the knot (2).

It is used in mountaineering for knitting gazebos (each loop for one leg), in marine practice the knot is used to insure a person: they sit in one loop, and the other covers the body under the armpits.

"DIRECT KNOT"

Spontaneously unties ("creeps"), therefore, use without control nodes is only permissible for domestic purposes.

"REEF" KNOT

Option direct node with a loop for easy untying. It is used as an auxiliary, not working under load. The option with two loops at the running ends is known to everyone since childhood under the name "bow".

"COUNTER" NODE

It does not creep, it tightens strongly under load, it is used for tying ropes of any diameter and ribbon-rope combinations.

COUNTER "EIGHT"

The characteristics are similar to the counter node. It is used for tying ropes of the same thickness only and knitting rope loops. Strength - up to 47%.

"SKOTOVY" AND

"BRAMSHKOTOV" KNOTS

Under load, they do not tighten, but "creep" under variable loads. The "clew" knot is used for tying ropes of the same diameter, the "bramshkot" - for ropes of both the same and different diameters. Control nodes are required. On the left side of figure "d" the authors mixed up the root and running end of the rope. Single (a) and double (b), serves to tie ropes of different diameters. Definitely a control node.

NODE "GRAPEVINE"

Reliable and beautiful. Under load, it tightens up a lot. Used for tying ropes of the same and different diameters, fishing lines. It is used for tying ropes of both the same and different thicknesses and for knitting rope loops. Of all the knots for tying a rope, this one has the highest strength - up to 56%. Reliable for tying ropes of a single diameter, ribbons, knitting guy loops, loops for bookmarks.

LINK KNOTS

NODE "BOA"

It tightens quickly and strongly (with heavy loads v "tightly"), does not "creep". To facilitate untying, a loop is knitted with a long free end (d).

DOUBLE KNOT "BOA"

It tightens even more.

KNOT "FISHING BAYONE"

a simple bayonet with a hose (b),

bayonet with skid (in)

A bayonet with a fence, unlike the "simple bayonet" knot (which does not have a second turn of the rope around the support), does not slide along the object around which it is tied under pendulum loads.

The gazebo is rarely used. We have it used for the stirrup on the "jumar". Maybe it will come in handy for some bracing. If the knot is not visually controlled, it is recommended to tie a control knot.

HINGES

NODE "AUSTRIAN CONDUCTOR"

(aka return conductor, aka driving loop, aka "butterfly" or "bee")

Allows you to make a reliable loop anywhere in the rope, weakening its strength less than the "guide" and "eight". Can be used to knit a rope ladder (see also stirrup).

The figure on the right shows an alternative variant of tying the Cossack knot, and for some reason the picture accompanies the description of the bowline. For the convenience of memorization and comparison, the drawings of the primary sources were deployed around different axes.

KNOT "HARE EARS"

The root end should run along the top side of the knot.

Due to this, the strength of the knot increases by 10%. Before tightening the knot, the coils must be laid parallel to one another, and not left crosswise, an incorrect arrangement reduces the strength of the rope. The most commonly used knot in mountaineering.

COSSACK KNOT(a-c)

KALMYK KNOT (d)

Reliable nodes, do not "creep", do not tighten much under load, do not require a control unit. To facilitate untying, you can use the option with a loop (d).

SPECIAL ASSEMBLY

GRIP KNOT:

From the ability to knit correctly and apply the basic climbing knots The life of not only the climber, but also the group depends on it. Learn about the main climbing knots.

There are twelve main knots in mountaineering. Here you can add a couple more “tasty” knots and you get 17. Knowing how to knit knots is useful, but not enough. You need to know and be able to apply knots in different situations. Plus, you need to be able to knit climbing knots in winter mittens, with your eyes closed, behind your back and with your eyes closed in mittens behind your back. Suddenly you find yourself in a situation where at night on high altitude in 30 degree frost you will need to tie a knot ... the head will not cook, only repeated repetition and muscle memory will help you. And therefore - practice knitting climbing knots all the time!

Basic climbing knots.

Eat 12 basic climbing knots that you need to know how to knit:

1. figure eight knot
2. Node Explorer
3. Austrian conductor knot
4. Prusik knot
5. Bachmann knot
6. knot grapevine
7. Counter node
8. Bramstring knot
9. Node UIAA
10. Knot Stirrup
11. bowline knot
12. Control Node

Nodes are divided into 4 groups:

• Looped: figure eight, conductor, Austrian conductor, bowline
• Grasping: Prusik, French, Austrian, Bachmann
• Binders: grapevine, counter, bramshkotovy
• Special/Auxiliary: control knot, uyaa, stirrup, guard knot

The twelve basic climbing knots are:

Loop knots.

1. Explorer

It is used for tying to a rope and organizing self-insurance. The knot is used in solving many problems in mountaineering.

Pros: Easy to knit, easy to remember. You can tie both at the end of the rope and in the middle. Can be tied at one end.

Minuses: Strongly tightened under load. "Crawls", especially on a hard rope.

Be sure to knit a control knot!

How to knit a conductor knot:

2. Eight

A simple and very reliable knot. It is used to secure the rope to the climbing harness, that is, for tying. When tying to a harness, the knot loop should be slightly smaller than the size of the fist.

Be sure to tie a control knot- the knot should fit snugly against the "eight". After tying the G-8 knot with the control knot, the tip of the rope 5-7 cm long should remain.

How to knit a figure eight knot with a loop: