Oak knot. Application in mountaineering
oak knot- rope knot, tied by connecting two opposite ropes or cables, the running ends of which are folded in parallel and jointly tied with one of the musing knots.
It is used in very rare cases, if necessary, quickly tie two cables. To tie two cables with an oak knot, you need to fold their ends along together and, retreating from the edges of 15-20 centimeters, tie both ends simple knot as a whole. The connection with an oak knot on vegetable cables is quite reliable, but a tightly tightened knot is very difficult to untie. An oak knot is not suitable for tying synthetic cables or fishing line, as it slides on them. In addition, the oak knot significantly weakens the strength of the rope.
The oak knot has two variations: the simple oak knot and the oak figure eight knot.
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Literature
An excerpt characterizing the Oak Knot
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And he grabbed the bear, and, embracing and lifting him, began to circle with him around the room.
Prince Vasily fulfilled the promise given at the evening at Anna Pavlovna's to Princess Drubetskaya, who asked him about her only son Boris. He was reported to the sovereign, and, unlike others, he was transferred to the guards of the Semenovsky regiment as an ensign. But Boris was never appointed adjutant or under Kutuzov, despite all the troubles and intrigues of Anna Mikhailovna. Shortly after Anna Pavlovna's evening, Anna Mikhailovna returned to Moscow, directly to her wealthy relatives, the Rostovs, with whom she stayed in Moscow and with whom her adored Borenka, who had just been promoted to the army and immediately transferred to the guards warrant officers, was brought up and lived for years. The guards had already left Petersburg on August 10, and the son, who had remained in Moscow for uniforms, was supposed to catch up with her on the road to Radzivilov.
In mountaineering oak knot used when it is necessary to quickly tie two ropes, for example, to organize a self-reset on an rappel. But there is one serious drawback: a tightly tightened oak knot, when wet, is very difficult to untie later. The positive qualities of this knot are the speed with which it can be tied and reliability. To connect two ropes, their ends must be folded lengthwise together and, stepping back 30-50 centimeters from the edges, tie both ends as one with a simple knot.
Usage
An oak knot is used to connect two ropes. It is used in mountaineering and rock climbing and also has many everyday uses as it is one of the easiest knots. Despite the name given by the Americans as the "European knot of death", the oak knot is good to use in mountaineering for rappelling. The knot is offset from the axis of tension, allowing it to slide over rough surfaces more easily than other knots. Along with its small size, the knot allows you to stretch the rope and reduce the chance of it getting stuck on ledges, cracks or descenders.
oak knot
A rope caught when yanked off is a serious threat to climbers, so these advantages, combined with the ease of tying, have led to the widespread adoption of the oak knot. Some sources recommend the knot to be used, but with the caveats of leaving very long ends (more than half a meter), carefully tying and fully tightening the knot by pulling on each of the four ends, and then subjecting the knot to only moderate trigger loads.
- Tie the ropes oak knot. It's fast and safe.
To oak knot was safe, leave the ends 30–50 cm long.
Which knot is stronger?
In Black Diamond laboratories, the nodes were checked for rupture and posted the following table:
- The oak knot is the weakest!
In general, yes. But I don’t know how to create a load on the rope of one and a half tons during the descent. Yes, in a knot the rope loses some of its strength, but not critically.
Please note that the table also contains numbers for ropes of different diameters (10.2 mm and 8.1 mm). On the other hand, Bob Gaines in the book The AMGA Single Pitch Manual does not recommend using an oak knot for tying ropes with a significant difference in diameter, such as 11mm and 7mm. True, without reference to research.
Ready-to-use oak knot
Tom Moyer took a series of measurements with different knots, ropes and slings. We have selected data comparing the oak knot and the "oak" eight:
| Knot | How tied | ||
|---|---|---|---|
|
The strands in the knot are parallel and each is tightened separately |
635, 879, 902, 938 |
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|
The rope broke in a knot |
|||
|
The strands are parallel, but not tightened |
485, 508, 666, 848, 907 |
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The rope broke in a knot |
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127 0
Sailors use it only in exceptional cases, when it becomes necessary to tie two cables very quickly. Although the connection of plant cables with an oak knot is quite reliable, it has a serious drawback: a tightly tightened knot is very difficult to untie later, especially if it gets wet. In addition, a cable tied in such a knot has less strength and, during operation, creates a danger of catching on something during its movement. His only positive traits is the speed with which it can be tied, and reliability.
To connect two cables, their ends must be folded lengthwise together and, retreating 15-20 centimeters from the edges, tie both ends as one with a simple knot.
Do not try to tie synthetic cables and fishing line with this knot: he crawls on them.
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Rice. 20. Oak knot
Meanings in other dictionaries
Heaver
a tool for rigging and sailing, which is a small cylindrical piece of wood with pointed ends. It is used as a lever when tearing out the ends. Dreyrep - tackle for lifting Mars-Ray. Drektov - anchor rope of a boat anchor (dreka). Kabolka is the thinnest component of a vegetable cable, twisted from the fibers of hemp, agave or other plants. ...
oak loop
This is the simplest loop of all existing non-tightening loops. It is knitted with a simple knot at the end of the rope, folded in half. The oak loop is strong and secure, but greatly weakens the cable by bending it. Unlike the oak knot, it can be used on synthetic rope. Its significant drawback is that the knot at the end of the cable is strongly tightened and the loop is very difficult to untie. ...
To tie ropes for descent is faster and more convenient with an oak knot.
- Why them? I like grapevine!
- Firstly, because with sufficient strength, it knits much faster. For example, when I was preparing this article, I slowly tied a grapevine in 33 seconds, and oak in 14. In thick mittens, I spent 48 seconds on grapevine, and 13 on oak.
- Secondly, unlike the grapevine or the counter-eight, it does not have ends that stick out along the rope. When you drag a knot through an inflection or bushes, these ends tend to get stuck.
When you knit any knot, remember:
- tie the knot carefully, otherwise it will be weaker (see table below)
- long enough ends should come out of the knot (10 rope diameters, but in the case of oak - more)
- a knot tied with wet/icy/dirty rope will withstand less load
From the Editor:To keep the oak knot secure, leave the ends 30–50 cm long.
Some people find it unreliable. They can be understood: after an intricate grapevine, an oncoming eight or (do not read children!) Two eights, tied with a carabiner, the oak knot looks too simple and unsafe. However, tests say otherwise.
Which knot is stronger?
In the Black Diamond laboratories, the knots were checked for rupture and posted the following table on Rock'n'Ice:
-Aha! Oak is the weakest!
In general, yes. But I don’t know how to create a load on the rope of one and a half tons during the descent. Yes, in a knot the rope loses some of its strength, but not critically.
- Well, what if he gets untied?
Tom Moyer took a series of measurements with different knots, ropes and slings. Follow the link there is a large table. I chose the comparison data of the oak and the "oak" eight:
- Wait, what kind of "Oak" eight appeared?
Sometimes people “for greater safety” do not knit a conductor, but a figure eight. As can be seen from the table, it creeps at lower loads.
From the Editor:Never use the "oak" eight for tying ropes!
And this is how (with a load above 600 kg) an oak knot crawls:
That is why it is important to leave the ends long enough. But, I repeat, when descending, you will not be able to load the rope with such force.
If you're paranoid and think you ate too much at breakfast, tie another knot at the remaining ends. With it, the knot will not move anywhere:
In all other cases, for tying ropes, the most durable knot is grapevine.
From the Editor:When working with rope, always tie knots at the ends. When descending without them, you can pass the end of the rope. And on the rocks, drop your partner, missing the end of the rope. Get in the habit of knitting a knot.
