Austrian loop. Knots for mountaineering

Austrian conductor- a knot related to non-tightening loops. This is one of the most famous and popular knots in mountaineering. Although this knot cannot be called purely mountaineering, since it has long been known in maritime affairs, from where it was borrowed, and today it can be used not only in mountaineering and at sea, but also in everyday life when a reliable non-tightening loop is needed.

Austrian conductor

Other names of the Austrian conductor are also known, for example, the node of the third, the node of the middle, middle conductor, bergshaft and driving loop. Also, sometimes this node is called the middle conductor, which is not entirely correct (in any case, I did not come across this name in the literature).

Very often the Austrian guide is referred to as an alpine butterfly or simply a butterfly. But this is a mistake. The Alpine Butterfly is a completely different knot that is knitted differently and used for other purposes, although outwardly it is difficult to distinguish it from the Austrian conductor. In the video I explain these nuances:

Bergshaft properties

This knot has a number of advantages, thanks to which it has gained wide popularity among people who often have to use a rope in their line of work.

Among the advantages of the Austrian conductor are the following:

• He is reliable.
• Doesn't crawl.
• It can be tied both in the middle of the rope and at its end.
• After loading, it is relatively easy to untie.
• It has a high efficiency (51-53%), that is, it relatively slightly reduces the strength of the rope.

Another beauty of this knot is that after applying heavy loads, it is relatively easy to untie.

But he also has disadvantages in comparison, for example, with such popular knots as the Flemish loop (eight) and. We list some of them:

• The Austrian conductor is relatively difficult to knit.
• The correctness of the node is difficult to determine "by eye".
• It is not recommended to knit an Austrian conductor at the end of a rope if a person's life depends on it.

However, with some experience in knitting the Austrian conductor and its correct use, these shortcomings are not of particular importance.

Appointment of an Austrian guide

In mountaineering, the main purpose of the Austrian guide is to create additional attachment points on the main rope. It is also needed to secure the middle participant in a bunch of climbers. By the way, that is why the Austrian conductor got the name of the node of the middle and middle conductor.

In this bundle, intermediate participants are included with the help of Austrian conductors.

With this knot, you can make a rope ladder. On the rope, loops are tied relatively close to each other. When climbing vertically fixed rope a person inserts his legs into these loops and clings to them with his hands. But from my experience I can say that the use of such a ladder requires a lot of rope and considerable physical effort. Instead of a rope ladder, it is better to use the free end of the rope for lifting, with which to tie the harness and Blake's grasping knot.

An Austrian conductor can also isolate an unreliable section of the rope. For example, if the rope has been damaged or even broken in some place, this fragment of it must be placed in the center of the Austrian handler's loop. From here, by the way, it becomes clear that it is possible to tie two ropes using the scheme of this knot. I have even tied two ropes of different diameters with this knot - the knot held securely and did not untie. But this option is valid only if the life of a person does not depend on the reliability of the node.

Based on this knot, you can make a stretcher out of a rope. To do this, a number of loops of the Austrian conductor are tied on the rope to the middle, the free end of the rope is passed through these loops with a blind loop, and four more loops are added along the edges of the resulting rectangular structure, for which it is supposed to carry a person lying or sitting in a rope stretcher. However, this design is knitted for a long time and is therefore only suitable in cases where other stretcher options are not available.

By passing the root end of the rope into a small loop of the Austrian conductor, you can get a tightening loop, which is convenient to use, for example, in homemade traps.

In fact, there are many more uses for this knot: it can be tied almost anywhere where a reliable, non-tightening loop is required.

How to tie this knot?

I know five ways to knit this knot. I propose to consider them.

Method number 1 (classic):

1. The rope is horizontal.
2. Its middle rotates 360 degrees - a pattern is obtained in the form of the number "8", located at the bottom of the rope.
3. The lower loop of the "eight" covers the upper one - the resulting "eight" seems to break at the point of overlap approximately in the middle.
4. The lower loop is pulled up a little more, wound up through the main rope and threaded into a double loop formed by the lower and upper loops of the figure-eight.

This method is convenient for visual memorization. It is slow enough, but simple, so it can be used when faster options could not be remembered. The video shows the implementation of this method:

Method number 2 (for quick knitting):

1. The running end of the rope is thrown over the index finger.
2. The running end is circled behind the brush, brought out to the left of the root end and again pounces on the brush between the index and thumb - an overlap is obtained on the palm.
3. The running end makes another turn around the brush and pounces on the brush to the right of the second turn - two overlaps are obtained.
4. The middle of the second coil (the one to the left) located in the palm of your hand is retracted to the right and pushed from right to left under all the coils.
5. The loop is removed, the knot is tightened.

The photo shows the order of this knitting method:

This method, compared with the previous one, allows you to tie the Austrian conductor much faster.

Method number 3 (another option for quick knitting):

1. The right hand is located in front of you, the fingers are directed to the left, the palm is towards you.
2. The running end of the rope by throwing it over the palm makes two turns around the brush from right to left.
3. Left arm winds up hanging down below right hand running end so that it is in the palm of the left hand.
4. The left hand, together with the running end, is brought towards itself so that the root end is behind the left hand.
5. The fingers of the left hand from under the right coil capture the middle of the left coil of the rope lying on the right hand.
6. The captured middle in the form of a loop is pulled to the left, while dropping the running end of the rope from the left hand.
7. The loop is intercepted by the right hand and clamped between the index and middle fingers.
8. The turns from the right hand are thrown to the left, the knot is tightened.

This method, despite the greater number of points in the mating algorithm, is actually faster than the previous one. This is my favorite way to tie an Austrian conductor in just 3 seconds.

Method number 4 (for a long rope):

1. The right hand is located in front of you, the fingers are directed to the left, the palm is towards you.
2. The running end of the rope, throwing it over the palm, makes three turns around the brush from right to left.
3. The middle of the middle coil, lying on the palm, is pushed under the leftmost coil, then taken out, turned to the right and pushed from right to left between the palm and all the coils.
4. The loop is removed, the knot is tightened.

This option is slower than the previous one, but makes it easy to tie a knot, even if you have to work with a long rope with a large mass.

We considered the options when the Austrian handler knits in the middle of the rope. Now consider an option that will allow you to tie this knot with one end of the rope.

Method number 5 (one end):

1. The rope is located horizontally, the running end of the rope is on the right.
2. The running end makes a turn clockwise and is placed on top of the root - a peg is obtained.
3. The running end is pushed from bottom to top into the resulting peg - a simple knot is obtained.
4. A loop is formed by the running end from the bottom of the main rope, after which the running end is pushed back into a simple knot just to the right of the place where it entered the peg - a running simple knot is obtained.
5. The running end is passed behind the loop from right to left - a double loop is formed to the right of the loop.
6. The running end is thrown through the previously formed loop and pushed from top to bottom into the double loop.
7. The knot is tightened.

This option is knitted longer than all the others, but, as mentioned earlier, it allows you to tie the Austrian conductor with one end, which is very convenient, for example, for attaching a rope to a closed support, on which it is impossible to throw a finished loop.

Mistakes in knitting the Austrian conductor are mainly associated with fast knitting methods: in the "classic" version, it is difficult to make a mistake due to its simplicity.

IN fast ways knitting errors can occur due to inattention and ignorance of the correct way to tie a knot, which will lead to the formation of a knot that resembles an Austrian conductor, but is not one. I don’t see the point in listing all the errors: due to the variety of knitting methods, there can be quite a lot of such errors. I can only say that in order to quickly knit a knot, you need to clearly follow the instructions and, for self-control, compare the resulting knot with a knot tied according to the classical scheme.

How to untie an Austrian conductor

If you do not know how to properly untie this knot, after a strong load on the rope, difficulties may arise.

In fact, the technique for untying this knot is similar to the technique for untying the bowline and figure eight, and is called "breaking".

In order to facilitate the task of untying, the loops of the Austrian conductor, located on the sides of the center of the knot and wrapping around the ends of the rope emerging from the knot, must be moved along these ends, as if broken. In this case, the knot is partially weakened - and it is not difficult to untie it.

The video shows this way of untying this knot:

Austrian guide and alpine butterfly - how not to confuse these knots?

These two knots could be called twins for their similarity: an uninitiated person is unlikely to be able to see the difference unless he is hinted that there are two different knots in front of him. It is not for nothing that the Austrian conductor is often called a butterfly.

But, like any twins, these nodes have their own small differences in both “appearance” and “character”. So, for example, an alpine butterfly can be used for shock absorption during a jerk, but an Austrian conductor is absolutely not suitable for this.

If you place the Alpine butterfly and the Austrian conductor with the loops up, then in the Alpine butterfly the upper loop, which clamps the large loop in the knot, can be removed from this loop, resulting in a running simple knot. With an Austrian guide, this trick will not work, since the top loop is held by the bottom loop.

Alpine butterfly - it is clearly seen that the two sections of the rope between the vertical sections do not intersect.

As you can see, the Austrian conductor can still be distinguished from a butterfly, but in case of doubt it is much easier to tie it up again instead of looking for minor differences and doubting the correctness of the connected knot: they are painfully similar.

Personally, I really like the Austrian conductor. I use it in almost any situation where you need to get a non-tightening loop, for example for:

• fastening the rope to one reliable support or several unreliable ones;
• tying a rope into the lower system, which in turn is tied from the same rope;
• rope tension when using the chain hoist system;
• the formation of several loops on a horizontally located rope for hanging various objects on them.

Also, more often than with other knots, I use an Austrian conductor to tie ropes, including ropes of different diameters.

This knot is reliable, does not creep, knits faster than the Flemish loop and bowline, and in terms of efficiency it is not worse than these two knots. At the same time, the Austrian conductor is easier to untie than the aforementioned figure eight, and even more so oak knot, which is often used to tie two ropes by people who are not related to either tourism or maritime affairs. As for me, this node is too good to be ignored and not implemented in tourism and everyday life.

used to fix the middle of the rope on the terrain or on the harness of the middle participant in a bundle, in the manufacture of a rope stretcher. The first stage - the rope is laid in a "figure eight" (Fig. 10a),

Rice. 10 A . b, c.

Austrian guide.

second stage - upper loop

bends to the base and is removed from the bottom of the lower loop (Fig. 106), after which the knot is tightened (Fig. 10c).

used for self-insurance when moving along vertical and inclined railings, for tensioning the chain hoist. It must be knitted with a rope of a smaller diameter on a rope of a larger diameter. The first stage - at the root end (larger diameter) the loop makes one revolution (Fig. 11 a)

Rice. 11 a, b, c.

Grasping.

the second stage - the second turn is made (Fig. 116), the third stage - the knot is straightened and tightened, the knot has a well-remembered pattern (Fig. 11c), in the loose state it moves freely along the rope, and with a sharp load it tightens and stops moving along the rope ( if not held in hand). Another way of knitting a grasping knot with one end, and not with a loop, as described above. This method is shown in detail in Fig. 11d, e and hardly requires comments.

Rice. 11 d, d,

it is used on icy and wet ropes, where the usual grasping rope is not reliable enough and works (tightens) only when loaded in one direction - where there are more turns. It differs from the usual grasping one, tied at one end, only in that more turns are made on one side (Fig. 11 e). The possible number of turns is 2 and 3 or more, but 1 and 2 turns cannot be considered reliable enough.

Rice. 11 e. Austrian (oblique) grasping.

it is used to fix the rope on the terrain or to tie a person (if there is no Abalakov belt or a safety system). The stages of its knitting are shown in Fig. 12 and hardly need a description, it should only be noted that the loop into which the running end is passed must necessarily be made at the end, which will then be loaded, as shown in fig. 12a, otherwise the knot will not be tied correctly.

Rice. 12 a, b, c. Bowline.

used as a foothold or, if tied at one end, to secure the rope to the terrain. Tying the stirrup is shown in fig. 13 a, b, c. It should be noted that the hands holding the rope are rotated at an angle of 180 ° clockwise (Fig. 13 a, b), then the loops obtained are combined (Fig. 13 c).

Rice. 13 a, b, f

Sometimes, for example, when falling into a crack, it becomes necessary to tie the stirrup with one hand (the other is occupied or damaged), this method is shown in Fig. 13d, e and does not need comments.

Rice. 13 g, e. Stirrup with one hand.

Guide knots and figure-of-eight knots can be used for use as a foothold, but the stirrup has the advantage of not being tightened and is easily untied. To secure the rope, you can use a stirrup tied at one end.

Rice. 13th, w. Stirrup at one end.

The knitting method is shown in Fig. 13th, w. It should be added that in this case, the control knot on the stirrup is mandatory, this knot holds very well even on an absolutely smooth stone or tree, but under heavy load or on a wet rope it is tightened so that it is very difficult to untie it.

is the forerunner of jumars and clamps. Now it is used for climbing on the stirrup in the absence or shortage of jumars (clamps) or for tensioning the chain hoist (with a strong rope tension, for example, on hinged ferry, even a good jumar spoils the braid of the rope). First, a loop from a rope of a smaller diameter is clicked into the carbine and applied with its long side to a rope of a larger diameter (Fig. 14a), then the loop makes 3-4 turns around the carbine, each time snapping the loop into it (Fig. 146), the resulting knot is straightened ( Fig. 14c), by the carbine it can be moved up, and with a sharp jerk, the knot is tightened. The knot is easily loosened after loading, it is widely used in rescue work.

Rice. 14 a, b, c. Bachman knot.

used to secure the rope on the terrain.

The working end encloses a tree or stone, an ice column and the root end (Fig. 15a), after which several “hose” are made between what the rope is fixed to and the place where the root end was carried out (Fig. 156).

To overcome obstacles (descents, ascents, crossings, traverses, etc.) in travel, especially mountain trips, ropes, carabiners, safety systems and various knots are used. It is important for every tourist to know how it fits and where this or that knot is used. Nodes can be classified according to their purpose.

1. Knots for tying ropes of the same diameter: “straight”, “weaving”, “oncoming”, “grapevine”.

2. Knots for tying ropes of different diameters: "academic", "bramshkotovy".

3. Knots for insurance (non-tightening loops): “simple conductor”, “eight”, “middle Austrian conductor”, “double conductor”.

4. Knots for tying ropes to a support: “noose”, “bowline”, “stirrup”.

5. Auxiliary nodes: "grasping", "stirrup".

The stirrup knot can be used in two cases, but the knitting methods will be different.

"Straight":

The knot can be knitted in two ways: 1. A loop is made with one rope (Fig. 1, a), and the necessary turns are made with the second rope to get the knot, as in Figure 1, b. The running ends should be 15-20 cm long so that control knots can be tied (Fig. 7, e). If one running end is on top and the other is on the bottom, or vice versa, then the knot is tied incorrectly. The running ends should come out either only from above, or only from below.

Rice. 1. "Direct"

Two ropes are placed on top of each other and two simple knots are tied in different sides(Fig. 1, c, d). If the knots are tied in one direction, then a "woman's knot" is obtained (Fig. 1, e). Next, control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 1, f).

"Weaving" knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are taken, superimposed on each other, then the control knot is knitted first on one side (Fig. 2, a), then on the other (Fig. 2, b). Next, the knots are pulled together and control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 2, c).

Rice. 2. "Weaving" knot

"Counter" node:

We take two ropes of the same diameter, a simple knot is knitted at the end of one (Fig. 3, a), then with the second rope towards the running end of the first rope we completely repeat the knot so that it turns out to be double and the running ends come out in different directions (Fig. 3, b) . After that, the knot is tightened, the control knots usually do not fit (Fig. 3, c).

Rice. 3. "Counter node"

Grapevine knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are superimposed on each other, as if a double control knot is tied on one side (Fig. 4, a), then the same on the other (Fig. 4, b). The nodes are pulled together (Fig. 4, c). Control knots do not fit. The correct drawing of the node is shown in Figure 4, d.

Rice. 4. Grapevine

Bramshkotovy knot:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop from a thicker rope, and wrap it with a thin running end as shown in Figure 5, a, b. Then the knot is tightened, straightened, and control knots are knitted at both ends (Fig. 5, c).

Rice. 5. Bramshkotovy

"Academic" node:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop thicker, and wrap the loop with the running end of a thin rope as shown in Figure 6, a, b. The knot is tightened, straightened, control knots are knitted at both ends (Fig. 6, c).

Rice. 6. "Academic"

Node "simple conductor":

It is knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and a simple knot is tied at the end of it (Fig. 7, a, b) to make a loop. A control knot is tied below (Fig. 7, c).

Rice. 7. "Simple Explorer"

Knot "eight":

Knitted with one rope. It is folded in half and a knot is tied at the end, resembling the number eight (Fig. 8, a, b). The knot straightens, tightens. The control knot does not fit (Fig. 8, c).

Rice. 8. "Eight"

Knot "middle Austrian conductor":

The knot is knitted on one rope. The rope is taken by the middle, then, by turning 360 °, a figure eight is formed from it (Fig. 9, a), the top of which goes down and is dragged, as shown by the arrow in Figure 9, b, so that the loop comes out. In order to get the correct knot (Fig. 9, c), you need to stretch the ends of the rope in different directions. The control knot does not fit.

Rice. 9. "Middle Austrian guide"

Knot "double conductor", or "hare ears":

Knitted on one rope. The rope is folded in half, a “dummy” is knitted on it (Fig. 10, a), tightened (Fig. 10, c) and tied so that it is untied if you pull it by the loop. In the case when the "dummy" is tied the other way around, the "double conductor" knot will not work. Then the lower loop is passed through, as shown by the arrow in Figure 10, b, so that the Two upper loops pass through it, and is pulled together by the upper loops to the knot (Fig. 10, c).

Rice. 10. "Double Conductor"

A correctly tied knot is shown in Figure 10, d. It is necessary to ensure that when tying the knot there is no overlap of the ropes. "Double Conductor" has no control nodes.

Node "noose":

The knot is knitted with one rope around the support. The support refers first to the running end, which serves to attach the rope, and then to its working end, which is directly used by the tourist (Fig. 11, a). Next, the running end of the rope makes several turns around the working end (at least three) and a control knot is tied (Fig. 11, b). Then the knot is tightened.

Rice. 11. "Choke"

Knot "stirrup":

The knot is tied with one end of the rope around the support. The running end of the rope is wrapped around the support, then knitted as shown in Figure 12, a. After that, the knot is tightened and fixed with a control knot (Fig. 12, b). If a stirrup knot is used when attaching to a support, it is tightened as tight as possible and the control knot is knitted as close to the support as possible.

Rice. 12. "Stirrup"

The stirrup knot can be used as a fulcrum for the leg when lifting from cracks. It is more convenient than the "guide" and "eight", because it is easier to untie and it can be tied even with one hand (Fig. 13, a, b).

Rice. 13. "Stirrup" as a support for the leg.

Knot "Bowline":

Knitted with one end of the rope around the support. Having retreated the required distance from the edge of the rope, make a loop by turning the rope 180 ° clockwise, then the support is surrounded by the running end (shown as a cross in the figure) and the end is threaded into the loop formed (Fig. 14, a). Next action: the running end is surrounded by a working rope and threaded into the loop from the back (Fig. 14, b). The knot is tightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 14, c).

Rice. 14. Bowline

"Bowline" can be tied in another way, with the help of a "pacifier". To do this, instead of a loop, a “dummy” is tied so that it is untied when jerking at the working end, and not at the running one. The support is enclosed by the running end (Fig. 15, a). Then it is carried into the “dummy” loop, and when the working end is pulled, the “dummy” loop, together with the running end, passes through the knot (Fig. 15, b). On the resulting bowline knot, it remains only to tie the control knot (Fig. 15, c).

Rice. 15. Bowline with a pacifier

"Grab" knot:

The knot is tied with a cord (6 mm) on the main rope (diameter 10-12 mm). The cord is folded in half, the rope is wrapped around it (Fig. 16, a, b). Then the operation is repeated (Fig. 16, c, d). After that, the knot is tightened, straightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 16, e). The control knot is not needed if the cord is previously tied into a loop with an “oncoming” or “grapevine” knot.

Rice. 16. "Grab" knot.

Sometimes a "grasping" knot is tied at one end of the cord. The rope is wrapped with one end of the cord twice in one direction, then in the other (Fig. 17, a, b, c). Then the knot is tightened, straightened and necessarily fixed with a control knot (Fig. 17, d).

Rice. 17. "Grab" knot at one end.

Additional nodes:
Node "dummy":

This knot can be used when tying bowline and double conductor knots, as well as an independent knot (for example, when tightening the top of a backpack). It is quickly and easily untied by pulling the ends in different directions.

Rice. 18. "Empty".

Knitting method. The rope is taken by the middle and a simple knot is tied (Fig. 18, a), but instead of tightening the ends, a tightening loop is made (Fig. 18, b).

"Marking" node:

This knot serves to tie the rope after it is coiled (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. "Marking" node.

"Bachmann knot":

Rice. 20. "Bachmann knot".

The knot is a kind of "grasping" and can be used for the same purposes. For the carabiner, the knot can be led up and down, and with a sharp jerk, the knot is tightened. It is easily untied after unloading.

The cord is snapped into the carabiner (Fig. 20, a), with the carabiner open, 3-4 turns are made (Fig. 20 b), then the carabiner sleeve is twisted, the knot is straightened and tightened (Fig. 20, c).

"Carbine noose":

The knot is used to tie a rope to a support. It is used when the rope needs to be pulled off after a descent, for example.

A “figure eight” is tied at the end of the rope, a carabiner is snapped into it (Fig. 21, a), then the rope is wrapped around the support and the carabiner is snapped into the working (load) end of the rope. The clutch of the carabiner is twisted, and the knot is tightened (Fig. 21, b).

Rice. 21. "Carbine noose."

"Double bowline":

Fig.22. Connection of parts of the safety system with a double bowline knot: a - chest harness loops; b - initial loop; c - this piece of rope must be at least 2 m; g - underlash of the lower strand of the rope passing in the loops of the gazebo; d - gazebo loop; e - self-insurance loop 1.1 m long; g - self-insurance loop 1.7 m long

TOOLKIT

NODES

CHARACTERISTIC

AND PURPOSE

ROPE DETAILS

According to the functional use, the ropes are divided into main and auxiliary. With the help of the main ropes, insurance is also provided. They are also used as carriers when working at height. Auxiliary are designed to provide secondary actions: safety net, quickdraws, tying and pulling out loads. The thickness of the produced ropes is different. The main ones, as a rule, have a diameter of 9.10.5.11.12.13 mm. As auxiliary ropes, either the main ropes or special ropes of a smaller diameter (cords) are used. Domestic cord has a diameter of 6-7 mm. In addition to auxiliary purposes, the cord is also used in insurance chains for "self-safety" loops (in the chain, the main safety rope is a grasping knot - a cord - a carabiner - a climber). According to modern requirements, the main rope must withstand 5 pulls of dropping a load of 80 kg with an excess of 2.5 meters above the anchor point with an interval of 5 minutes. Only control samples are subjected to this test. After testing, the ropes are not suitable for use. Since work at height is usually associated with the static nature of loads, ropes are usually used that do not dampen the jerk. The elastic properties of the rope, necessary to dampen the jerk during such work, will become a hindrance. The rope designed to dampen the jerk during a fall is called "dynamic", and the other "static" (for simplicity, they say "dynamics" or "statics"). They differ in the amount of tension under load. So dynamics stretches by about 3.5%, and statics by 1.5%. If the working conditions are such that there is a possibility of a fall - in this case, it is necessary to use ropes and belay techniques, and appropriate safety devices (shock absorbers, braking devices).

With the deterioration of the operating conditions of the ropes (Direct sunlight, sharp bends, wetting, paint ingress, etc.), their strength is greatly reduced. For example, when the rope is bent around a bar with a diameter of 10 mm (carbine), the strength drops by 10%. And with a bend radius of 1 mm, the rope may not withstand the first breakdown in real conditions. In knots, there is also a decrease in the strength of the ropes, this is about 30%. When wet, the strength of the rope will also decrease by about 30%. When the rope is exposed to various media, such as solvents, paints, cements, etc., its strength decreases. For example, dyeing a rope with aniline dyes showed a decrease in its strength by 2-4 times. When performing work on industrial facilities, the rope is subjected to stress mainly due to descents and ascents along it.

According to foreign standards (respectively, for ropes), the carrier and safety rope should be replaced after a maximum of three years or 400 runs.

After that, the ropes are used until complete rejection for another year as auxiliary and transport ropes. Then they get married for good. When stored in a cool darkened room after 4-5 years, the strength of the rope decreases so much that it cannot withstand a single test failure. For the cord, tests have shown that after two years of storage, the static strength is 480 kilograms / force (kgf) and after three years already 280 kgf. Passport static breaking strength of a new cord is 600-700 kgf. The aging process is accelerated when stored in light, especially in direct sunlight. The standard shelf life of domestic rope under normal conditions is two years. Modern ropes sometimes have two strands inside, which are marked with the year of manufacture. An absolute factor in the rejection of the rope is a serious breakdown of the climber with a free fall and hanging on it. According to manufacturers, a “serious” stall is considered when the jerk factor is greater than one. The jerk factor or fall coefficient is the ratio of the depth of free fall of the leader (along the line of water fall) to the length of the rope given out by the belayer. Indirectly characterizes the jerk force per unit length of the rope. Maximum value equals two. The rope rejected after the breakdown can no longer be used anywhere. Including use some part of it for binding, safety loops. Affects the decrease in the strength of the rope and work with clamps that break its sheath. It is very important to choose those designs of clips that spare her as much as possible. If heavily soiled, the rope can be washed in lukewarm water using neutral detergents (powders for washing baby clothes, hand washing, toilet soap, etc.) ideal use detergents from rope manufacturers.

Often, dust and dirt not visible to the eye can create significant abrasive effects that greatly affect the strength of the rope. Ropes should be stored in a bay suspended in cool dark rooms. The ends of the rope must be melted to prevent unraveling. The same storage conditions for the cord.

If you decide to go mountain climbing, the first thing you should know is knots. There are several main nodes (about 10) without which it will not be possible to do. You must be able to knit them quickly, in the dark, with your eyes closed and even behind your back. Each node has its own purpose. At different knots, the ropes come out of the knot in different ways. So, for example, if you tie a "figure eight" and pull its "tails" in different directions, the knot works to break. This knot is suitable, for example, for hanging a rope on a carabiner for some kind of met. construction. But if you need the knot to work on a stretched rope in the middle, it is better to use the Rope Ladder knot.

MAIN KNOTS

NODE "EXPLORER"

I - loop, II - one end

Ease of tying, easy to knit with one hand. The disadvantage of the knot is that it tightens heavily under load. It is recommended to insert a hook into the plexus of the knot, “click” the carabiner. The conductor is used for tying to the middle of the rope, if there is no safety system, as well as for tying ropes - two conductors at the ends of the ropes are connected with a carabiner.

The knot is used frequently. Has a tendency to "creep", especially on hard ropes. Requires the imposition of a control node. With this knot, the strength of the rope drops by about 30-40%.

NODE "EIGHT"

This knot is most often used for tying ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm to supports, also a knot for tying. Strongly tightened under load. Its strength is up to 55% (the strength of the knot is determined relative to the declared strength of the rope). Forms a double loop, which increases its tensile strength. Doesn't crawl. Under load, it tightens up a lot.

NODE "NINE"

Its most valuable property is that of all the nodes used so far, it has the highest strength - up to 70 - 74%. This leads to an increase in the practical strength of the rope.

Its use is especially expedient for a rope with a diameter of 9 mm, the strength of which from the very beginning is less than the strength of ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm.

"GASOLINE" KNOT

Not to be confused with the bowline knot. They are very similar, but still different.

KNOT SINGLE "BOWLINE"

Despite the amazing compactness of the bowline contains elements simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. The elements of all these knots give the bowline the right to be considered universal.

The advantage of bowline knots is the ease of tying and untying after removing the load from the rope. Belonging to the group of so-called "arbor knots", bowline knots form a loop that does not tighten under load, due to which they can in some cases be used for mutual insurance for tying a chest harness. The strength of "single and double bowline" is almost the same - up to 52 - 53%. After tying the knot single bowline"A control knot must be made at the free end. When tying a knot, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that its formation is carried out by the control end of the rope. Otherwise, it will not be a bowline, but a clew knot."

KNOT DOUBLE "BOWLINE"

Allows you to make loops of both the same and different lengths. To make the drawing of the knot correct, it is necessary to pull out the loop "A" completely in the opposite direction from the loops "B" (1), then tighten the knot (2).

It is used in mountaineering for knitting gazebos (each loop for one leg), in marine practice the knot is used to insure a person: they sit in one loop, and the other covers the body under the armpits.

"DIRECT KNOT"

Spontaneously unties ("creeps"), therefore, use without control nodes is only permissible for domestic purposes.

"REEF" KNOT

Option direct node with a loop for easy untying. It is used as an auxiliary, not working under load. The option with two loops at the running ends is known to everyone since childhood under the name "bow".

"COUNTER" NODE

It does not creep, it tightens strongly under load, it is used for tying ropes of any diameter and ribbon-rope combinations.

COUNTER "EIGHT"

The characteristics are similar to the counter node. It is used for tying ropes of the same thickness only and knitting rope loops. Strength - up to 47%.

"SKOTOVY" AND

"BRAMSHKOTOV" KNOTS

Under load, they do not tighten, but "creep" under variable loads. The "clew" knot is used for tying ropes of the same diameter, the "bramshkot" - for ropes of both the same and different diameters. Control nodes are required. On the left side of figure "d" the authors mixed up the root and running end of the rope. Single (a) and double (b), serves to tie ropes of different diameters. Definitely a control node.

NODE "GRAPEVINE"

Reliable and beautiful. Under load, it tightens up a lot. Used for tying ropes of the same and different diameters, fishing lines. It is used for tying ropes of both the same and different thicknesses and for knitting rope loops. Of all the knots for tying a rope, this one has the highest strength - up to 56%. Reliable for tying ropes of a single diameter, ribbons, knitting guy loops, loops for bookmarks.

LINK KNOTS

NODE "BOA"

It tightens quickly and strongly (with heavy loads v "tightly"), does not "creep". To facilitate untying, a loop is knitted with a long free end (d).

DOUBLE KNOT "BOA"

It tightens even more.

KNOT "FISHING BAYONE"

a simple bayonet with a hose (b),

bayonet with skid (in)

A bayonet with a fence, unlike the "simple bayonet" knot (which does not have a second turn of the rope around the support), does not slide along the object around which it is tied under pendulum loads.

The gazebo is rarely used. We have it used for the stirrup on the "jumar". Maybe it will come in handy for some bracing. If the knot is not visually controlled, it is recommended to tie a control knot.

HINGES

NODE "AUSTRIAN CONDUCTOR"

(aka return conductor, aka driving loop, aka "butterfly" or "bee")

Allows you to make a reliable loop anywhere in the rope, weakening its strength less than the "guide" and "eight". Can be used to knit a rope ladder (see also stirrup).

The figure on the right shows an alternative variant of tying the Cossack knot, and for some reason the picture accompanies the description of the bowline. For the convenience of memorization and comparison, the drawings of the primary sources were deployed around different axes.

KNOT "HARE EARS"

The root end should run along the top side of the knot.

Due to this, the strength of the knot increases by 10%. Before tightening the knot, the coils must be laid parallel to one another, and not left crosswise, an incorrect arrangement reduces the strength of the rope. The most commonly used knot in mountaineering.

COSSACK KNOT(a-c)

KALMYK KNOT (d)

Reliable nodes, do not "creep", do not tighten much under load, do not require a control unit. To facilitate untying, you can use the option with a loop (d).

SPECIAL ASSEMBLY

GRIP KNOT:

From the ability to knit correctly and apply the basic climbing knots The life of not only the climber, but also the group depends on it. Learn about the main climbing knots.

There are twelve main knots in mountaineering. Here you can add a couple more “tasty” knots and you get 17. Knowing how to knit knots is useful, but not enough. You need to know and be able to apply knots in different situations. Plus, you need to be able to knit climbing knots in winter mittens, with your eyes closed, behind your back and with your eyes closed in mittens behind your back. Suddenly you find yourself in a situation where at night on high altitude in 30 degree frost you will need to tie a knot ... the head will not cook, only repeated repetition and muscle memory will help you. And therefore - practice knitting climbing knots all the time!

Basic climbing knots.

Eat 12 basic climbing knots that you need to know how to knit:

1. figure eight knot
2. Node Explorer
3. Austrian conductor knot
4. Prusik knot
5. Bachmann knot
6. knot grapevine
7. Counter node
8. Bramstring knot
9. Node UIAA
10. Knot Stirrup
11. bowline knot
12. Control Node

Nodes are divided into 4 groups:

• Looped: figure eight, conductor, Austrian conductor, bowline
• Grasping: Prusik, French, Austrian, Bachmann
• Binders: grapevine, counter, bramshkotovy
• Special/Auxiliary: control knot, uyaa, stirrup, guard knot

The twelve basic climbing knots are:

Loop knots.

1. Explorer

It is used for tying to a rope and organizing self-insurance. The knot is used in solving many problems in mountaineering.

Pros: Easy to knit, easy to remember. You can tie both at the end of the rope and in the middle. Can be tied at one end.

Minuses: Strongly tightened under load. "Crawls", especially on a hard rope.

Be sure to knit a control knot!

How to knit a conductor knot:

2. Eight

Simple and very reliable node. It is used to secure the rope to the climbing harness, that is, for tying. When tying to a harness, the knot loop should be slightly smaller than the size of the fist.

Be sure to tie a control knot- the knot should fit snugly against the "eight". After tying the G-8 knot with the control knot, the tip of the rope 5-7 cm long should remain.

How to knit a figure eight knot with a loop: