How to knit a midwire knot. Tourist knots

From the ability to knit correctly and apply the basic climbing knots The life of not only the climber, but also the group depends on it. Learn about the main climbing knots.

There are twelve main knots in mountaineering. Here you can add a couple more “tasty” knots and you get 17. Knowing how to knit knots is useful, but not enough. You need to know and be able to apply knots in different situations. Plus, you need to be able to knit climbing knots in winter mittens, with your eyes closed, behind your back and with your eyes closed in mittens behind your back. Suddenly you find yourself in a situation where at night on high altitude in 30 degree frost you will need to tie a knot ... the head will not boil, only repeated repetition and muscle memory will help you. And therefore - practice knitting climbing knots all the time!

Basic climbing knots.

Eat 12 basic climbing knots that you need to know how to knit:

1. figure eight knot
2. Node Explorer
3. Knot Austrian conductor
4. Prusik knot
5. Bachmann knot
6. knot grapevine
7. Counter node
8. Bramstring knot
9. Node UIAA
10. Knot Stirrup
11. bowline knot
12. Control Node

Nodes are divided into 4 groups:

• Looped: figure eight, conductor, Austrian conductor, bowline
• Grasping: Prusik, French, Austrian, Bachmann
• Binders: grapevine, counter, bramshkotovy
• Special/Auxiliary: control knot, uyaa, stirrup, guard knot

The twelve basic climbing knots are:

Loop knots.

1. Explorer

It is used for tying to a rope and organizing self-insurance. The knot is used in solving many problems in mountaineering.

Pros: Easy to knit, easy to remember. You can tie both at the end of the rope and in the middle. Can be tied at one end.

Minuses: Strongly tightened under load. "Crawls", especially on a hard rope.

Be sure to knit a control knot!

How to knit a conductor knot:

2. Eight

Simple and very reliable knot. It is used to secure the rope to the climbing harness, that is, for tying. When tying to a harness, the knot loop should be slightly smaller than the size of the fist.

Be sure to tie a control knot- the knot should fit snugly against the "eight". After tying the G-8 knot with the control knot, the tip of the rope 5-7 cm long should remain.

How to knit a figure eight knot with a loop:

TOOLKIT

NODES

CHARACTERISTIC

AND PURPOSE

ROPE DETAILS

According to the functional use, the ropes are divided into main and auxiliary. With the help of the main ropes, insurance is also provided. They are also used as carriers when working at height. Auxiliary are designed to provide secondary actions: safety net, quickdraws, tying and pulling out loads. The thickness of the produced ropes is different. The main ones, as a rule, have a diameter of 9.10.5.11.12.13 mm. As auxiliary ropes, either the main ropes or special ropes of a smaller diameter (cords) are used. Domestic cord has a diameter of 6-7 mm. In addition to auxiliary purposes, the cord is also used in insurance chains for "self-safety" loops (in the chain, the main safety rope is a grasping knot - a cord - a carabiner - a climber). According to modern requirements, the main rope must withstand 5 pulls of dropping a load of 80 kg with an excess of 2.5 meters above the anchor point with an interval of 5 minutes. Only control samples are subjected to this test. After testing, the ropes are not suitable for use. Since work at height is usually associated with the static nature of loads, ropes are usually used that do not dampen the jerk. The elastic properties of the rope, necessary to dampen the jerk during such work, will become a hindrance. The rope designed to dampen the jerk during a fall is called "dynamic", and the other "static" (for simplicity, they say "dynamics" or "statics"). They differ in the amount of tension under load. So dynamics stretches by about 3.5%, and statics by 1.5%. If the working conditions are such that there is a possibility of a fall - in this case, it is necessary to use ropes and belay techniques, and appropriate safety devices (shock absorbers, braking devices).

With the deterioration of the operating conditions of the ropes (Direct sunlight, sharp bends, wetting, paint ingress, etc.), their strength is greatly reduced. For example, when the rope is bent around a bar with a diameter of 10 mm (carbine), the strength drops by 10%. And with a bend radius of 1 mm, the rope may not withstand the first breakdown in real conditions. In knots, there is also a decrease in the strength of the ropes, this is about 30%. When wet, the strength of the rope will also decrease by about 30%. When the rope is exposed to various media, such as solvents, paints, cements, etc., its strength decreases. For example, dyeing a rope with aniline dyes showed a decrease in its strength by 2-4 times. When performing work on industrial facilities, the rope is subjected to stress mainly due to descents and ascents along it.

According to foreign standards (respectively, for ropes), the carrier and safety rope should be replaced after a maximum of three years or 400 runs.

After that, the ropes are used until complete rejection for another year as auxiliary and transport ropes. Then they get married for good. When stored in a cool darkened room after 4-5 years, the strength of the rope decreases so much that it cannot withstand a single test failure. For the cord, tests have shown that after two years of storage, the static strength is 480 kilograms / force (kgf) and after three years already 280 kgf. Passport static breaking strength of a new cord is 600-700 kgf. The aging process is accelerated when stored in light, especially in direct sunlight. The standard shelf life of domestic rope under normal conditions is two years. Modern ropes sometimes have two strands inside, which are marked with the year of manufacture. An absolute factor in the rejection of the rope is a serious breakdown of the climber with a free fall and hanging on it. According to manufacturers, a “serious” stall is considered when the jerk factor is greater than one. The jerk factor or fall coefficient is the ratio of the depth of free fall of the leader (along the line of water fall) to the length of the rope given out by the belayer. Indirectly characterizes the jerk force per unit length of the rope. Maximum value equals two. The rope rejected after the breakdown can no longer be used anywhere. Including use some part of it for binding, safety loops. Affects the decrease in the strength of the rope and work with clamps that break its sheath. It is very important to choose those designs of clips that spare her as much as possible. If heavily soiled, the rope can be washed in lukewarm water using neutral detergents (powders for washing baby clothes, hand washing, toilet soap, etc.) ideal use detergents from rope manufacturers.

Often, dust and dirt not visible to the eye can create significant abrasive effects that greatly affect the strength of the rope. Ropes should be stored in a bay suspended in cool dark rooms. The ends of the rope must be melted to prevent unraveling. The same storage conditions for the cord.

If you decide to go mountain climbing, the first thing you should know is knots. There are several main nodes (about 10) without which it will not be possible to do. You must be able to knit them quickly, in the dark, with your eyes closed and even behind your back. Each node has its own purpose. At different knots, the ropes come out of the knot in different ways. So, for example, if you tie a "figure eight" and pull its "tails" in different sides- the knot works on a break. This knot is suitable, for example, for hanging a rope on a carabiner for some kind of met. construction. But if you need the knot to work on a stretched rope in the middle, it is better to use the Rope Ladder knot.

MAIN KNOTS

NODE "EXPLORER"

I - loop, II - one end

Ease of tying, easy to knit with one hand. The disadvantage of the knot is that it tightens heavily under load. It is recommended to insert a hook into the plexus of the knot, “click” the carabiner. The conductor is used for tying to the middle of the rope, if there is no safety system, as well as for tying ropes - two conductors at the ends of the ropes are connected with a carabiner.

The knot is used frequently. Has a tendency to "creep", especially on hard ropes. Requires the imposition of a control node. With this knot, the strength of the rope drops by about 30-40%.

NODE "EIGHT"

This knot is most often used for tying ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm to supports, also a knot for tying. Strongly tightened under load. Its strength is up to 55% (the strength of the knot is determined relative to the declared strength of the rope). Forms a double loop, which increases its tensile strength. Doesn't crawl. Under load, it tightens up a lot.

NODE "NINE"

Its most valuable property is that of all the nodes used so far, it has the highest strength - up to 70 - 74%. This leads to an increase in the practical strength of the rope.

Its use is especially expedient for a rope with a diameter of 9 mm, the strength of which from the very beginning is less than the strength of ropes with a diameter of 10 and 11 mm.

"GASOLINE" KNOT

Not to be confused with the bowline knot. They are very similar, but still different.

KNOT SINGLE "BOWLINE"

Despite the amazing compactness of the bowline, it contains elements of a simple knot, half-bayonet, weaving and straight knots. The elements of all these knots give the bowline the right to be considered universal.

The advantage of bowline knots is the ease of tying and untying after removing the load from the rope. Belonging to the group of so-called "arbor knots", bowline knots form a loop that does not tighten under load, due to which they can in some cases be used for mutual insurance for tying a chest harness. The strength of "single and double bowline" is almost the same - up to 52 - 53%. After tying the "single bowline" knot at the free end, a control knot must be made. When tying a knot, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that its formation is carried out by the control end of the rope. Otherwise, it will not be a bowline, but a clew knot.

KNOT DOUBLE "BOWLINE"

Allows you to make loops of both the same and different lengths. To make the drawing of the knot correct, it is necessary to pull out the loop "A" completely in the opposite direction from the loops "B" (1), then tighten the knot (2).

It is used in mountaineering for knitting gazebos (each loop for one leg), in marine practice the knot is used to insure a person: they sit in one loop, and the other covers the body under the armpits.

"DIRECT KNOT"

Spontaneously unties ("creeps"), therefore, use without control nodes is only permissible for domestic purposes.

"REEF" KNOT

Option direct node with a loop for easy untying. It is used as an auxiliary, not working under load. The option with two loops at the running ends is known to everyone since childhood under the name "bow".

"COUNTER" NODE

It does not creep, it tightens strongly under load, it is used for tying ropes of any diameter and ribbon-rope combinations.

COUNTER "EIGHT"

The characteristics are similar to the counter node. It is used for tying ropes of the same thickness only and knitting rope loops. Strength - up to 47%.

"SKOTOVY" AND

"BRAMSHKOTOV" KNOTS

Under load, they do not tighten, but "creep" under variable loads. The "clew" knot is used for tying ropes of the same diameter, the "bramshkot" - for ropes of both the same and different diameters. Control nodes are required. On the left side of figure "d" the authors mixed up the root and running end of the rope. Single (a) and double (b), serves to tie ropes of different diameters. Definitely a control node.

NODE "GRAPEVINE"

Reliable and beautiful. Under load, it tightens up a lot. Used for tying ropes of the same and different diameters, fishing lines. It is used for tying ropes of both the same and different thicknesses and for knitting rope loops. Of all the knots for tying a rope, this one has the highest strength - up to 56%. Reliable for tying ropes of a single diameter, ribbons, knitting guy loops, loops for bookmarks.

LINK KNOTS

NODE "BOA"

It tightens quickly and strongly (with heavy loads v "tightly"), does not "creep". To facilitate untying, a loop is knitted with a long free end (d).

DOUBLE KNOT "BOA"

It tightens even more.

KNOT "FISHING BAYONE"

a simple bayonet with a hose (b),

bayonet with skid (c)

A bayonet with a fence, unlike the "simple bayonet" knot (which does not have a second turn of the rope around the support), does not slide along the object around which it is tied under pendulum loads.

The gazebo is rarely used. We have it used for the stirrup on the "jumar". Maybe it will come in handy for some bracing. If the knot is not visually controlled, it is recommended to tie a control knot.

HINGES

NODE "AUSTRIAN CONDUCTOR"

(aka return conductor, aka driving loop, aka "butterfly" or "bee")

Allows you to make a reliable loop anywhere in the rope, weakening its strength less than the "guide" and "eight". Can be used to knit a rope ladder (see also stirrup).

The figure on the right shows an alternative variant of tying the Cossack knot, and for some reason the picture accompanies the description of the bowline. For the convenience of memorization and comparison, the drawings of the primary sources were deployed around different axes.

KNOT "HARE EARS"

The root end should run along the top side of the knot.

Due to this, the strength of the knot increases by 10%. Before tightening the knot, the coils must be laid parallel to one another, and not left crosswise, an incorrect arrangement reduces the strength of the rope. The most commonly used knot in mountaineering.

COSSACK KNOT(a-c)

KALMYK KNOT (d)

Reliable nodes, do not "creep", do not tighten much under load, do not require a control unit. To facilitate untying, you can use the option with a loop (d).

SPECIAL ASSEMBLY

GRIP KNOT:

Going camping without knowing how to properly tie a reliable knot is unjustifiably risking your life. For a long time people have invented several reliable techniques. So, everyone knows the sea - perhaps the most popular. But is it the most reliable?

As you know, no less strong. You can safely trust them with your life. And the best of them are climbing. Tying them is not easy, but you can learn how to do it. The main thing is to know the scheme. If you are planning a trip for the first time in your life, and even without an experienced instructor, you should definitely take with you several printed patterns for knitting knots with notes about the purpose of each of them. Quite possibly it will save a life.

The history of the appearance of the node

Austrian conductor - a knot, also called the "middle knot", is widely used in mountaineering. This is how the anchor points are organized along the base rope, and also the middle one is fixed in the bundle. It is for this purpose that the node got its name.

The main feature that distinguishes the butterfly from the widely used figure eight is free tightening in both directions. In addition, such a knot is quite simple to untie. There will be no slippage even if there is a very strong pull on one of the two ropes.

Key features of the Austrian conductor node:

• ease of untying even after removing a very significant load;
• efficiency in three directions;
• stability (will not drag on and will slide);
• maintaining the safety margin of the climbing rope.

Like any other knot, the butterfly has several important drawbacks. In particular, it will not be possible to tie it if only one hand is free, it is difficult to cope if you cannot take off the mittens, which is especially important to consider in mountaineering. The size of the resulting loop is not easy to change. In addition, visually it will not be possible to determine whether it was tied correctly. Finally, an important feature is that the ends of the ropes do not hang parallel, but diverge at an angle.

How to tie a knot

So, an Austrian guide (knot) can save a life in the mountains. How to knit it correctly? It is possible to make a middle knot for the first time if there is a clear and understandable scheme in front of your eyes, and better than that- Video instruction. Briefly, the sequence of actions is as follows:

• the rope wraps around the palm twice;
• at the end of the first turn, the rope must be moved closer to the fingertips;
• the rope should be wrapped until its tip is behind the thumb;
• With outside the rope must be picked up, and then pass the loop from below under the turns;
• the rope is removed from the palm;
• the loop is tightened.

Where the node is used

The Austrian conductor is a knot that is in demand when it is necessary to make an additional point on the rope for fastening or to strengthen the place where the force will be applied.

This is the best option for securing the load. The participant walking in the middle in a bunch is also insured by means of a similar fastening.

What other climbing knots are known

Novice tourists are of great interest in what tourist nodes with names are, and schemes for their manufacture. All climbing fasteners can be divided into three large groups:

• strapping;
• for tying ropes;
• auxiliary.

The node described in the article belongs to the category of strapping. In addition to him, this includes the eight, bowline. The first gives a strong loop that is easy to untie. They tie a figure eight either in the middle or at the end, and the technique is suitable for thin and thick climbing ropes. The strength of the material due to the knot does not change.

Bowline is used at the ends of the rope. It is necessary for chest harness and is used if you need to fasten the rope to a tree or stone.

Tying ropes is most often done. If force is applied to the rope, the ends will be pulled into the fastener structure by several centimeters. If the material gets wet, it will be very difficult to untie a straight knot.

A good option for tying ropes is Flemish mountaineering knots. At the same time, the running ends of the ropes are folded in parallel and a figure eight is tied. This is a very strong connection, which, even with strong tension, will not damage the material. It is not difficult to untie it, there is no slip on the rope; also suitable for synthetic material.

Of the two simple ones, you can combine the so-called Strapping is done with running ends directed towards each other. It is suitable if you have to tie ropes whose thickness is approximately equal. If the tension is very strong, the loop is tightened so that it cannot be untied.

If you need to tie the auxiliary and main ropes, he comes to the rescue. He is reliable, simple, has important advantage: it will not be a problem to untie it.

There are a lot of auxiliary nodes in mountaineering. Particularly widespread:

• noose;
• simple whip;
• stirrup;
• grasping;
• UIAA;
• double reef.

The most reliable node

As experienced tourists and climbers say, the most reliable knot, if you have to tie two ropes into one, is a grapevine. It will not work to tie it right away - it is difficult to perform, but it also provides the highest class security. Such a knot, if a load has been applied to the rope, is very tight. It is suitable for tying ropes of both the same thickness and different. In addition to mountaineering, the knot was widely used in fishing where applied on fishing line.

To overcome obstacles (descents, ascents, crossings, traverses, etc.) in travel, especially mountain trips, ropes, carabiners, safety systems and various knots are used. It is important for every tourist to know how it fits and where this or that knot is used. Nodes can be classified according to their purpose.

1. Knots for tying ropes of the same diameter: “straight”, “weaving”, “oncoming”, “grapevine”.

2. Knots for tying ropes of different diameters: "academic", "bramshkotovy".

3. Knots for insurance (non-tightening loops): “simple conductor”, “eight”, “middle Austrian conductor”, “double conductor”.

4. Knots for tying ropes to a support: “noose”, “bowline”, “stirrup”.

5. Auxiliary nodes: "grasping", "stirrup".

The stirrup knot can be used in two cases, but the knitting methods will be different.

"Straight":

The knot can be knitted in two ways: 1. A loop is made with one rope (Fig. 1, a), and the necessary turns are made with the second rope to get the knot, as in Figure 1, b. The running ends should be 15-20 cm long so that control knots can be tied (Fig. 7, e). If one running end is on top and the other is on the bottom, or vice versa, then the knot is tied incorrectly. The running ends should come out either only from above, or only from below.

Rice. 1. "Direct"

Two ropes are superimposed on each other and two are tied simple node in different directions (Fig. 1, c, d). If the knots are tied in one direction, then a "woman's knot" is obtained (Fig. 1, e). Next, control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 1, f).

"Weaving" knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are taken, superimposed on each other, then the control knot is knitted first on one side (Fig. 2, a), then on the other (Fig. 2, b). Next, the knots are pulled together and control knots are tied at the ends (Fig. 2, c).

Rice. 2. "Weaving" knot

"Counter" node:

We take two ropes of the same diameter, a simple knot is knitted at the end of one (Fig. 3, a), then with the second rope towards the running end of the first rope we completely repeat the knot so that it turns out to be double and the running ends come out in different directions (Fig. 3, b) . After that, the knot is tightened, the control knots usually do not fit (Fig. 3, c).

Rice. 3. "Counter knot"

Grapevine knot:

Two ropes of the same diameter are superimposed on each other, as if a double control knot is tied on one side (Fig. 4, a), then the same on the other (Fig. 4, b). The nodes are pulled together (Fig. 4, c). Control knots do not fit. The correct drawing of the node is shown in Figure 4, d.

Rice. 4. Grapevine

Bramshkotovy knot:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop from a thicker rope, and wrap it with a thin running end as shown in Figure 5, a, b. Then the knot is tightened, straightened, and control knots are knitted at both ends (Fig. 5, c).

Rice. 5. Bramshkotovy

"Academic" node:

We take two ropes of different diameters, make a loop thicker, and wrap the loop with the running end of a thin rope as shown in Figure 6, a, b. The knot is tightened, straightened, control knots are knitted at both ends (Fig. 6, c).

Rice. 6. "Academic"

Node "simple conductor":

It is knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and a simple knot is tied at the end of it (Fig. 7, a, b) to make a loop. A control knot is tied below (Fig. 7, c).

Rice. 7. "Simple Explorer"

Knot "eight":

Knitted with one rope. It is folded in half and a knot is tied at the end, resembling the number eight (Fig. 8, a, b). The knot straightens, tightens. The control knot does not fit (Fig. 8, c).

Rice. 8. "Eight"

Knot "middle Austrian conductor":

The knot is knitted on one rope. The rope is taken by the middle, then, by turning 360 °, a figure eight is formed from it (Fig. 9, a), the top of which goes down and is dragged, as shown by the arrow in Figure 9, b, so that the loop comes out. In order to get the correct knot (Fig. 9, c), you need to stretch the ends of the rope in different directions. The control knot does not fit.

Rice. 9. "Middle Austrian guide"

Knot "double conductor", or "hare ears":

Knitted on one rope. The rope is folded in half, a “dummy” is knitted on it (Fig. 10, a), tightened (Fig. 10, c) and tied so that it is untied if you pull it by the loop. In the case when the "dummy" is tied the other way around, the "double conductor" knot will not work. Then the lower loop is passed through, as shown by the arrow in Figure 10, b, so that the Two upper loops pass through it, and is pulled together by the upper loops to the knot (Fig. 10, c).

Rice. 10. "Double Conductor"

A correctly tied knot is shown in Figure 10, d. It is necessary to ensure that when tying the knot there is no overlap of the ropes. "Double Conductor" has no control nodes.

Node "noose":

The knot is knitted with one rope around the support. The support refers first to the running end, which serves to attach the rope, and then to its working end, which is directly used by the tourist (Fig. 11, a). Next, the running end of the rope makes several turns around the working end (at least three) and a control knot is tied (Fig. 11, b). Then the knot is tightened.

Rice. 11. "Choke"

Knot "stirrup":

The knot is tied with one end of the rope around the support. The running end of the rope is wrapped around the support, then knitted as shown in Figure 12, a. After that, the knot is tightened and fixed with a control knot (Fig. 12, b). If a stirrup knot is used when attaching to a support, it is tightened as tight as possible and the control knot is knitted as close to the support as possible.

Rice. 12. "Stirrup"

The stirrup knot can be used as a fulcrum for the leg when lifting from cracks. It is more convenient than the "guide" and "eight", because it is easier to untie and it can be tied even with one hand (Fig. 13, a, b).

Rice. 13. "Stirrup" as a support for the leg.

Knot "Bowline":

Knitted with one end of the rope around the support. Having retreated the required distance from the edge of the rope, make a loop by turning the rope 180 ° clockwise, then the support is surrounded by the running end (shown as a cross in the figure) and the end is threaded into the loop formed (Fig. 14, a). Next action: the running end is surrounded by a working rope and threaded into the loop from the back (Fig. 14, b). The knot is tightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 14, c).

Rice. 14. Bowline

"Bowline" can be tied in another way, with the help of a "pacifier". To do this, instead of a loop, a “dummy” is tied so that it is untied when jerking at the working end, and not at the running one. The support is enclosed by the running end (Fig. 15, a). Then it is carried into the “dummy” loop, and when the working end is pulled, the “dummy” loop, together with the running end, passes through the knot (Fig. 15, b). On the resulting bowline knot, it remains only to tie the control knot (Fig. 15, c).

Rice. 15. Bowline with a pacifier

"Grab" knot:

The knot is tied with a cord (6 mm) on the main rope (diameter 10-12 mm). The cord is folded in half, the rope is wrapped around it (Fig. 16, a, b). Then the operation is repeated (Fig. 16, c, d). After that, the knot is tightened, straightened and a control knot is tied (Fig. 16, e). The control knot is not needed if the cord is previously tied into a loop with an “oncoming” or “grapevine” knot.

Rice. 16. "Grab" knot.

Sometimes a "grasping" knot is tied at one end of the cord. The rope is wrapped with one end of the cord twice in one direction, then in the other (Fig. 17, a, b, c). Then the knot is tightened, straightened and necessarily fixed with a control knot (Fig. 17, d).

Rice. 17. "Grab" knot at one end.

Additional nodes:
Node "dummy":

This knot can be used when tying bowline and double conductor knots, as well as an independent knot (for example, when tightening the top of a backpack). It is quickly and easily untied by pulling the ends in different directions.

Rice. 18. "Empty".

Knitting method. The rope is taken by the middle and a simple knot is tied (Fig. 18, a), but instead of tightening the ends, a tightening loop is made (Fig. 18, b).

"Marking" node:

This knot serves to tie the rope after it is coiled (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. "Marking" node.

"Bachmann knot":

Rice. 20. "Bachmann knot".

The knot is a kind of "grasping" knot and can be used for the same purposes. For the carabiner, the knot can be led up and down, and with a sharp jerk, the knot is tightened. It is easily untied after unloading.

The cord is snapped into the carabiner (Fig. 20, a), with the carabiner open, 3-4 turns are made (Fig. 20 b), then the carabiner sleeve is twisted, the knot is straightened and tightened (Fig. 20, c).

"Carbine noose":

The knot is used to tie a rope to a support. It is used when the rope needs to be pulled off after a descent, for example.

A “figure eight” is tied at the end of the rope, a carabiner is snapped into it (Fig. 21, a), then the rope is wrapped around the support and the carabiner is snapped into the working (load) end of the rope. The clutch of the carabiner is twisted, and the knot is tightened (Fig. 21, b).

Rice. 21. "Carbine noose."

"Double bowline":

Fig.22. Connection of parts of the safety system with a double bowline knot: a - chest harness loops; b - initial loop; c - this piece of rope must be at least 2 m; g - underlash of the lower strand of the rope passing in the loops of the gazebo; d - gazebo loop; e - self-insurance loop 1.1 m long; g - self-insurance loop 1.7 m long

Austrian conductor
Austrian conductor
Canonical name	Austrian conductor
Synonyms	Alpine Butterfly, Knot of the Third, Knot of the Middle, Median Conductor, Bergshaft, Driving Loop
Category	Non-tightening loops
Efficiency	51-53% between main ends 67% with loop
Related Nodes	Connecting Austrian conductor
Decoupling	Doesn't drag on
Application	intermediate aids, removing a piece of broken rope from work
Knot book	331, 1053

Austrian conductor( central conductor) - used to organize attachment points on the base rope and for attachment in the bundle of the middle participant, for which he received his second common name. The knot is notable for the fact that it is easy, in comparison with the eight, to be untied and equally well tightened in both directions. When jerking from one side, it does not slide along the rope. Do not confuse(!) with the "Butterfly" knot, which has shock-absorbing properties and an outwardly similar pattern.

Advantages

• Small decrease in rope strength;
• Does not slip and does not tighten;
• Works in any of the three directions;
• Easily untied after the load applied to it;

Flaws

• Difficult to tie with one hand
• It is difficult to tie when hands are in mittens (relevant for mountaineering)
• It is difficult to change the size of the loop;
• It is visually difficult to determine the correct tying

Easy tying method Austrian guide	Austrian step guide

Usage

• It is used for fastening in a bunch of the middle participant on the route;
• For tying a rope to the main and intermediate fasteners;
• Does not apply as a shock-absorbing unit;
• For temporary isolation of a defective (broken) piece of working rope.

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Notes

Classification Places Basic climbing equipment Other climbing equipment Climbing equipment Rope Knots Insurance and self-insurance

An excerpt characterizing the Austrian conductor (knot)

- Come for tea. The prince will come out now, - said the voice of the maid from behind the door.
She woke up and was horrified at what she was thinking. And before going down, she got up, entered the figurative and, gazing at the black face of the large image of the Savior illuminated by the lamp, stood in front of him with her hands folded for several minutes. There was an agonizing doubt in Princess Mary's soul. Is it possible for her to enjoy the joy of love, earthly love for a man? In thoughts of marriage, Princess Mary dreamed of both family happiness and children, but her main, strongest and most hidden dream was earthly love. The feeling was the stronger, the more she tried to hide it from others and even from herself. My God, she said, how can I suppress these thoughts of the devil in my heart? How can I renounce evil thoughts forever so that I can calmly do Your will? And as soon as she made this question, God already answered her in her own heart: “Desire nothing for yourself; do not seek, do not worry, do not envy. The future of the people and your fate must be unknown to you; but live so as to be ready for anything. If it pleases God to test you in the duties of marriage, be ready to do His will.” With this soothing thought (but still with the hope of fulfilling her forbidden, earthly dream), Princess Mary, sighing, crossed herself and went downstairs, not thinking about her dress, or her hair, or about how she would enter and what she would say. What could all this mean in comparison with the predestination of God, without whose will not a single hair will fall from a human head.

When Princess Mary entered the room, Prince Vasily and his son were already in the living room, talking with the little princess and m lle Bourienne. When she entered with her heavy gait, stepping on her heels, the men and m lle Bourienne rose, and the little princess, pointing at her to the men, said: Voila Marie! [Here is Marie!] Princess Marya saw everyone and saw them in detail. She saw the face of Prince Vasily, which for a moment seriously stopped at the sight of the princess and immediately smiled, and the face of the little princess, who read with curiosity on the faces of the guests the impression that Marie would make on them. She saw m lle Bourienne with her ribbon and pretty face and animated, as never before, a look directed at him; but she could not see him, she only saw something big, bright and beautiful moving towards her when she entered the room. First, Prince Vasily approached her, and she kissed the bald head, which bent over her hand, and answered his words that, on the contrary, she remembers him very well. Then Anatole approached her. She still hasn't seen him. She only felt a gentle hand, firmly taking her, and lightly touched her white forehead, over which beautiful blond hair was pomaded. When she looked at him, his beauty struck her. Anatop, laying thumb right hand behind the buttoned button of his uniform, with his chest arched forward, and back with his back, swaying one leg aside and slightly bowing his head, silently, cheerfully looked at the princess, apparently not thinking about her at all. Anatole was not resourceful, not quick and not eloquent in conversations, but he had, on the other hand, the ability of calmness, precious to the world, and unalterable confidence. Shut up at the first meeting, a not self-confident person and show the consciousness of the indecency of this silence and the desire to find something, and it will not be good; but Anatole was silent, shaking his leg, cheerfully observing the princess's hairdo. It was evident that he could remain silent so calmly for a very long time. “If anyone is uncomfortable with this silence, then talk, but I don’t feel like it,” his appearance seemed to say. In addition, in dealing with women, Anatole had that manner that most of all inspires curiosity, fear and even love in women - a manner of contemptuous consciousness of his superiority. It was as if he was telling them with his appearance: “I know you, I know, but why bother with you? And you would be glad!” It may be that he did not think this when he met women (and it is even likely that he did not, because he did not think much at all), but he had such an appearance and such a manner. The princess felt this and, as if wanting to show him that she did not even dare to think about keeping him busy, she turned to the old prince. The conversation was general and lively, thanks to the voice and the sponge with the mustache, rising above the white teeth of the little princess. She met Prince Vasily with that trick of a joke, which is often used by talkatively cheerful people and which consists in the fact that between a person who is treated like that and herself, some long-established jokes and funny, partly not known to everyone, amusing memories are assumed, then as there are no such memories, as there were none between the little princess and Prince Vasily. Prince Vasily willingly succumbed to this tone; the little princess drew into this recollection of never-before funny incidents and Anatole, whom she hardly knew. M lle Bourienne also shared these common memories, and even Princess Mary felt with pleasure that she was drawn into this cheerful memory.