Rope crossing polyspast. The order of passage of the team on a hinged ferry across the river
It is long overdue to bring some clarity in matters relating to the hanging crossings.
I could not find any intelligible material in Russian on this topic. Therefore, I had to turn to foreign experience.
Below I bring to your attention a free translation (with which I was very helped by Dasha Zimarina, for which many thanks to her) parts of the “Hinged crossings” of the British Columbia Mine Rescue Manual .
Types of overhead crossings:
1. Horizontal.
The starting station and the end station are located almost on the same level (the level difference is no more than 10 degrees).
2. Inclined.
The difference between the levels of the initial and final station is from 10 to 45 degrees.
3. Cool.
The level difference is more than 45 degrees.
The organization of mounted crossings is a creative process and there is no single solution for all occasions. A lot depends on the equipment you have and the terrain.
But the following can be basic principles organization of hanging crossings:
Rice. 1. Fastening the end of the cargo rope.
1. Avoid any kinks in the load rope (including knots) on the load rope. this reduces its strength. It is also necessary to securely fasten the end of the cargo rope with an appropriate knot ( rice. 1).
2. It is necessary to attach the chain hoist for tensioning the crossing to the cargo rope in such a way that the rope is not damaged by too much pulling force. At present, it is customary to use an 8 mm tandem-Prussik in three turns as the main pulling element ( rice. 2) (approx. per. For ropes less than 11 mm thick, a 7 mm tandem prussic can be used.).
It is forbidden to use any mechanical clamping devices (jumar, tiblock, gibbs) when tensioning hinged crossings.
Rice. 2. The load rope is pulled with a tandem Prussian.
3. The load must be attached to the suspension system by means of a device to which force can be applied in different directions (Kootenay Carriage, rings). You also need to decide how many suspension points and how many traction ropes will be used: (one or two independent). The main options are shown below ( Rice. 3).
Rice. 3. Attaching the load to the load rope.
4. It is necessary to secure the cargo in case of a break in the cargo rope. To do this, it is necessary to secure the traction ropes with the help of a tandem prusik fixed at the station. Haul ropes should be attached to a multidirectional force device (Kootenay Carriage, for example) on which the load is suspended, but not directly to the load. Also, to dampen the jerk, it is recommended to duplicate the fastening of the traction rope to the load with a cord tied with a Prusik knot on the rope ( Rice. 3, note the Prussik knots).
5.
The safety factor (the ratio of the strength of the weakest link of the system to the expected load) of the hinged ferry should be at least 10:1.
If, due to the terrain, it is required to stretch the crossing with a minimum of sag, then you can increase the number of cargo ropes to achieve the required safety margin.
6. All rollers used to tension the crossing must be of sufficiently large diameter. This is necessary to reduce the load on the cargo rope.
7. Load and haul ropes must be attached to independent stations. The strength of the stations must be equal to or greater than the strength of the ropes. For example, 11.1 mm rope has a tensile strength of 30 kN, so the station must also withstand loads of at least 30 kN. If a double rope is used (two 11.1 mm ropes), then the strength of the station must be at least 60 kN.
8. When pulling crossings longer than 30 m, a pull rope hanger should be used to reduce slack. Such a suspension can be made from several loops of the cord, tying them with grasping knots to the traction rope and fixing the ends on the cargo rope using unmuffed carabiners at the same distance from each other ( Rice. 4).
Rice. 4. Suspension for traction rope.
Basic rules for the tension of the crossing.
All the rules that we will talk about below (calculations are given for 11 mm rope with a tensile strength of 30 kN) are aimed at observing one most important condition - there must always be a 10-fold safety margin.
1. If the main rope is not loaded, then a 2:1 chain hoist is used to tension it, which stretches ONE man.
2. If a load is attached to the middle of the main rope, then this combination should be used to tension it: chain hoist - number of people, which will give a gain in strength of no more than 12 (i.e., the product of the number of people and the gain in strength of the chain hoist does not exceed 12). So, for example, a 2:1 pulley block can pull 6 people, a 4:1 pulley block - 3 people, and a 6:1 pulley block - only 2 people. The same applies to double and quadruple ropes. If 12.5 mm rope is used, then the tension system should not give a gain in strength of more than 18, i.e. 6 people can pull the main rope with a 3:1 chain hoist. It should be remembered that the real gain in strength may differ from the ideal.
3. If a double or quadruple rope is used to build a canopy (usually a large number of ropes are used to reduce sag or when transporting heavy weight), then in this case it is necessary to make sure that all the ropes are stretched equally.
On fig. 5 shows the tension of a double rope with a chain hoist 6:1. If 11 mm ropes are used, no more than two people should pull the crossing.
Rice. 5. Tension of the double rope with a chain hoist 6:1.
Please note that the rollers, to which the tandem Prussians are attached, are interconnected by a sling. This is necessary to save the chain hoist system in the event of a break in one of the ropes.
Additional securing of cargo ropes with a tandem-prusik system is optional and is usually used for tensioning inclined crossings or if the pulley block needs to be reloaded during tension.
4. When the load passes more than half of the crossing and approaches the target station, a chain hoist may be required to pull the haul rope. In this case, a simple 3:1 chain hoist assembled from the end of a hauling rope can be used (Fig. 6). At the same time, it is also necessary to use the tandem-prusik system for insurance in case of a break in the cargo rope.
Rice. 6. Polyspast 3:1 and tandem Prussian.
5.
When lowering the load sloping ferry it is necessary to additionally control its speed. A belay device can be used for this (Fig. 7).
To provide insurance in the event of a break in the load rope on the hauling rope in front of belay device a tandem-prussic system is knitted, which is attached to the station using the LRH knot (approx. per. loadReleaseHitch - a knot that can be untied under load, usually a blocked knotUIAA or knot radius).
Rice. 7. Traction rope insurance.
6. Note trans.The diagrams do not show (Fig. 4) that the ends of all !!! ropes (whether it be a cargo rope coming out of the chain hoist, whether it be a traction rope also coming out of the chain hoist) must be fixed at their stations.
7. Note trans. Sometimes you need not just to transport the cargo, the victim, etc. to the other side, but it is necessary, for example, to transport it to the middle of the canyon, and then lower it. Or, on the contrary, it is necessary to lower the rescuer to the bottom of the canyon in order to get to the victim. For this, the so-called. system "English reeve“
Rice. 8. English reeve.
As you can see from the picture, by loosening the red rope at both ends at the same time, you can lower the load. In the same way, by organizing a chain hoist at the ends of the red rope, you can lift the load.
Also pay attention to the title picture of the post, you can see how the system is organized“
English reeve” with two blocks on the cargo line.
However, very often it is not convenient to work simultaneously from both sides, so you can somewhat simplify the scheme. (Rice. 9).
Rice. 9. Simplified scheme of English Reeve.
The photo shows that with the help of a blue rope, you can carry out vertical manipulations with the load.
It should be remembered that in this case the traction ropes must be stretched and secured.
Of course, in both cases, the rope with which the ascent or descent is carried out must be equipped with a chain hoist or belay device, respectively.
Use of pull lines.
When using the technique of a suspended crossing for lowering a load along a steep, difficult terrain, it is advisable to use quickdraws in order to protect the load from damage.
Pulls are of several types:
Rice. 10. Guy from the auxiliary rope.
This way (Fig. 10) involves pulling the stretcher/load, cargo and safety ropes off the terrain with a rope attached to the bottom of the stretcher/load.
Since the quickdraw is almost unloaded, it can be held by just one rescuer standing below. On the other hand, it is quite difficult to significantly change the direction of movement of the load in this way.
You can organize such a delay at any time, as needed.
Peculiarities:
1.
The method is quite simple and safe, because. the guy is almost not loaded.
2.
Well suited for minor changes in the trajectory of the movement of the load.
3.
The person (several people) holding the guy can, if necessary, move easily change the direction of the load.
4.
It is necessary to give out the rope if the load is raised, and, conversely, to choose the rope if it is lowered.
Rice. 11. Guy from the guide rope.
When using this method ( Rice. eleven) the load is attached to the guide rope with the help of a leash and a roller, which is fixed at the top station. The leash that secures the stretcher/load to the roller should be short enough so that the nearly vertical guiding rope does not interfere with transport.
The guide rope is not heavily loaded, so several people can hold it below. At the same time, it will also not work to change the trajectory of the movement of the load. The main difference from the previous method is that the rope in this case is fixed at the top, and not on the load.
Peculiarities:
1.
The method is quite simple and safe, because. rope is lightly loaded.
2.
Well suited for a small change in the trajectory of the movement of the load.
3.
The people holding the quickdraw can, if necessary, move easily to change the direction of the load.
3. Guy from a cargo rope.
Rice. 12. Guy from a cargo rope.
In this method, the stretcher/load is attached to the load rope directly (without a tie) using a roller. The cargo rope (not to be confused with the cargo rope at the crossing) is loaded more than in the previous cases, so it cannot simply be held by people, it must be fixed at the station.
The load rope should have a steep enough angle to take only part of the weight of the load and still pull it away from the wall. A heavily taut cargo rope turns into a steep crossing, the consideration of which is beyond the scope of this article.
The cargo rope can be pulled both from below and from above, choose the most convenient way.
Since the rope is not heavily loaded, any suitable knot can be used to secure its end. (ability to untie under load - not required). To attach the roller to the rope and to the load, any method convenient in this case is suitable. The roller will move along the rope along with the load.
Peculiarities:
1.
The method is quite simple and safe.
2.
It is used in cases where it is necessary to avoid contact of the load with the terrain.
3.
For safety reasons, do not take the load far from the wall.
4.
The load rope MUST NOT be as tight as a steep ferry!
OK it's all over Now!
Good luck with your crossings!
When passing a hanging crossing, it is necessary to follow a certain order (sequence) of attaching an athlete to the ropes and leaving them.
At the beginning, the athlete, using a safety mustache with a carabiner at the end, fastens to the safety rope (stands on the insurance). Further, to block the safety system in the chest area, an escort rope is attached to it through a carabiner. Then, the athlete is fastened to the transport rope with a carabiner located in the area of the gazebo (the conditional point of his center of gravity). It is allowed to fasten to the transport rope with two carabiners (when using two carabiners, the chest carabiner is fastened at the beginning, and then the harness carabiner), as well as the use of blocks and carts that have been tested and approved for use by the technical commission of the competition.
The free end of the accompanying rope must be fixed on a support, or on a participant holding it in his hands and standing on a lanyard on the shore. For accompaniment, you can make a "shuttle". To do this, use two ropes that are attached to the athlete or one long rope, the middle of which is attached to the athlete, and the ends are on opposite banks.
During the crossing, no more than one person can be on the transport rope.
If, according to the conditions of the competition, the organized crossing is inclined (the angle is more than 20 degrees), then the following rules must be observed:
a) the accompanying rope must be given out by the participant in gloves through the carabiner (reference point) on the “upper” bank, including for the last participant;
b) athletes move along the hinged ferry with their feet forward towards the “lower” bank;
c) the accompanying person must have self-insurance, including in the safe zone.
In case of unsatisfactory condition of the crossing, strong sagging of the transport rope, weakening of the fastenings on the supports and, in connection with this, dangerous immersion of the participant into the water, touching the ground, protruding objects, the senior judge of the stage is obliged to stop the work of the team and demand to return the participant to the original shore. In this case, work can be continued only after additional tension of the crossing.
One by one, team members cross to the opposite side. The last participant, before the start of the crossing, fastens auxiliary ropes to the carabiners of the carabiner knots of the transport and safety ropes located on the support. He fastens the ends of the ropes to himself. This is necessary in the future to remove the transport and safety ropes by "pulling". After the crossing of the last participant on the target bank, the attachment points of the transport and safety ropes are untied. Then, holding the ends of the auxiliary ropes, the team pulls (“pulls”) them, and with them the transport rope and safety rope. When "pulling" the ropes, it is necessary to ensure that they do not get tangled and do not catch on trees, stones and other objects.
- (from the Greek polyspastos - pulled by many ropes) is a mechanism consisting of a system of movable and fixed blocks wrapped around by a rope (cable) for lifting and moving loads. In tourism, it is most often used in the course of building crossings for pulling a transport rope. It is organized over a ravine, a canyon, a glacial crack, a mountain river. Mounted crossings differ in horizontal, inclined, steeply inclined, etc. There are many guidance options, but the goal is the same - to create such a tension on the rope so that under load (tourist, backpack) the sag is minimal. After tension, the rope wraps around the support and is secured to itself with a carabiner (noose). A safety rope (or rope for parallel railings) is pulled a little higher. Another one with a carabiner in the middle is used for the "shuttle" - a transport rope for pulling a tourist or cargo to one side. At the end of the crossing of all participants, it serves to pull the working rope to the other side.
In the photo - the tension of the crossing using the minimum amount of equipment (the method from Petzl): two sleeved carabiners and static rope(!). reproduced at home sports complex- a good thing, you can also train in the ascent and rappel :)
The trick is to tie two figure eight knots in the right places.
Below is a simple one-rope system using a pulling grappling knot, with the locking grappling knot optionally (sometimes) omitted (not pictured). The rope is wound behind a tree for fixation, or it immediately clings to itself with a carabiner. One must be careful not to use an old or thin cord for grasping. They are torn only on the way .. (http://www.ullutau.ru/documents/gear/?id=99). Since 2002, we have definitely broken 3 pieces. 
In this case, a steel block-roller with a plain bearing is added to the system. The roller can be on one of two or both carabiners. After the crossing is established, it will be possible to transport cargo on it. Goes fast and smoothly. 
In all cases, they pull on the end, which is located in the photo in the lower right corner. Try to assemble such chain hoists at home, so that on occasion you don’t remember for a long time how it works ..
A universal set of "iron" for beginners for 1.8 thousand rubles. (+ static rope, two cords 7 mm, gazebo). 
HINGED FERRY
(materials to help listeners)
Moscow - 1989
GENERAL INFORMATION
The crossing is often the most difficult and dangerous element of a hiking trip. Among the many ways of crossing, hinged is important. A special need for it may arise not only on routes of high complexity, but also in simpler hikes during the rainy season, as well as when transporting a sick or injured participant. Guidance of a hinged crossing should be studied in preparation for hikes P - III categories of difficulty.
Below is a description of one of the options for a hinged self-detachable ferry.
EQUIPMENT
The following special equipment is required for organizing a hinged crossing:
the main rope with a diameter of 10-12 mm, the length of which should exceed the distance between the supports by 4-6 m. This rope is called cargo. It is designed to move above the surface of the water of participants and backpacks attached to the rope with a carabiner;
the main rope with a diameter of 10 mm, the length of which should be 6-10 m more than twice the width of the river. This rope is called a transport rope. It is intended for additional insurance of participants when transporting them and backpacks on a cargo rope;
the main rope with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of 3-4 m for knitting a loop around a support on the original bank when creating a chain hoist;
at least eight carbines;
block with bearing (Fig. 1) to reduce wear on the load rope. Blocks are also recommended to be used to increase the efficiency of the chain hoist;
two loops from a double auxiliary rope (cord) with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 2) for connecting a cargo rope with a support using grappling knots and carabiners, creating a chain hoist and pulling the crossing. You can replace each of these sweats with two prusik loops of the same length (Fig. 3);
helmet, life jacket;
spinning or light nylon cord for throwing across the river and then pulling the cargo and transport ropes.
Each competitor must have a personal harness consisting of a harness and chest harness interlocked together.
All equipment is checked before going to training sessions overhead crossing.
SELECTING THE POSITION OF THE BOAT FERRY
The most favorable place for a hinged crossing is a place where there is:
the smallest width of the river;
reliable trees growing near the coast, which can be used as supports for attaching a cargo rope;
a slight excess of the original bank over the opposite one, so that the crossing takes place downhill;
sufficient excess of the attachment points of the cargo rope above the water level so that: when sagging in the middle of the crossing, the heaviest tourist does not touch the water (the wider the river, the greater the excess should be);
the possibility of crossing one of the participants in any way near the planned place of the hanging crossing.
PARTICIPANT'S CROSSING
In order to fix the cargo rope on the opposite bank, one of the members of the tourist group must cross there.
For any type of crossing, the participant must wear:
personal insurance system;
life jacket.
To reduce weight, it is advisable to make a life jacket from nylon fabric and fill it with inflated rubber balls before crossing. Similarly, a container for salik is made, if it is possible to cross on it.
The low temperature of water and air, the considerable time required for the organization of a hanging crossing, in most cases lead to the need for a participant to make a fire. Therefore, you need to put a box of matches in hermetic packaging and kindling, for example, a piece of Plexiglas, into the helmet.
PREPARATORY WORK
1. Pulling cargo and transport ropes across the river
It is often inconvenient or even impossible to walk along the banks from the participant's crossing point to the planned place of the mounted crossing with ropes stretched across the river, with the help of which the participant belayed. Therefore, it becomes necessary to transfer the ends of the ropes from the original shore to the crossed participant.
If the river is wide and it is not possible to throw a rope over it, then spinning can be used. First, a lure is thrown onto the opposite bank. Then the ends of the fishing line and the transport rope are tied (Fig. 4), and the participant pulls the rope to his bank by the fishing line.
When the end of the transport rope reaches the opposite bank, a conductor loop is knitted on the transport rope on the original bank. At the end of the cargo rope, a figure-eight knot is knitted. These knots are connected with a carabiner, after which the participant from the opposite bank pulls the end of the cargo rope towards him.
If there is no spinning, then a nylon cord can be thrown across the river using a “sling” device (Fig. 5). Further actions, as in the example with spinning.
2. A knot for securing a cargo thief to a support on the opposite bank.
The main requirements for this knot with a self-detachable ferry: reliability and the ability to untie under load. When attaching a rope to a tree, bridles are used: “noose”, “simple bayonet” with a “hose”, “fisherman's bayonet”. When fastening to a stone, a group of young trees, bushes, a “simple bayonet” is used (Fig. 6).
When knitting knots of the "bayonet" type, their reliable insurance is necessary control nodes. The bowline knot, designed to create a non-tightening loop, is not used in a self-release crossing, since it cannot be untied under load. We recall the conditions for the reliability of the “noose” node:
used only for knitting around a tree;
tree diameter but less than 20 cm;
the number of overlaps is at least three;
all points of overlap must be in contact with the bark of the tree.
To make it easier to unravel the knot of the ambassador of the end of the crossing, the length of the free end of the rope should be at least 2 m.
The end of the transport rope is fixed on the opposite bank with a “carbine noose” knot around a support. On the starting bank, the group temporarily secures both ropes, having previously pulled them so that they do not touch the water.
3. Preparation of artificial supports for the cargo rope
In exceptional cases, it is necessary to create artificial supports for the cargo rope. For example, as a support, you can use a local loop fixed on a rocky area with three hooks.
Often the bottleneck is at the turn of the river. At the same time, trees grow on the outer, washed-out shore, and the inner one is a pebble placer. If you prepare and install on a pebble, near the water, a wooden pyramid of logs and half fill it with stones, then it can serve as a support for the crossing. Such supports were installed at one time at the All-Union seminars of pedestrian tourism for crossing the Kitoy River. However, only a large tourist group can build such a pyramid.
4. Preparation of the chain hoist
Loops from the main rope are knitted around the support on the starting bank: one of the lengths of 3-4 m specially taken for this purpose, for the second, the free end of the transport rope is used. A significant load will be applied to the loops, and after the crossing is established, they will need to be removed from the support. When knitting loops, an oncoming "eight" knot with a wedge-shaped wooden bookmark is used.
The length of the loops is chosen so that the gap between the rope and the support under load is small. Two carabiners snap into the top loop and one into the bottom loop.
Grasping knots (simple or Bachmann) on the cargo rope are fixed two loops from a double cord (or double prusik loops). The (retaining) loop closest to the support is connected with the help of one of the carabiners to the upper loop of the support (Fig. 7). Now this loop begins to hold the cargo rope over the river.
The cargo rope is sequentially passed into the second carabiner of the upper loop on the support, into one of the carabiners of the tension loop, into the carabiner of the lower loop on the support, into the second carabiner of the tension loop.
Thus, a chain hoist is obtained, which theoretically gives a gain in strength of 4 times. Despite friction losses, such a chain hoist allows even a small group of tourists to expend considerable effort when building a crossing. To reduce friction, it is recommended to use small blocks on the pulley carbines.
CROSSING GUIDANCE
The gripping knot of the tension loop moves from the support towards the river. Several participants take up the cargo rope and begin to stretch. At this time, one of the participants stands at the support and, as it stretches, advances the grasping knot of the holding loop from the support towards the river. In those moments when the group stops stretching, this loop takes on the load.
With a long crossing, high elasticity of the rope or a small distance from the support to the water, it is not possible to achieve a good tension of the cargo rope, despite the fact that all the carabiners of the chain hoist come together. In this case, the tension stops, the gripping knot of the tension loop moves again from the support towards the river, and the tension continues.
After the required degree of tension has been reached, the cargo rope is wound around the support. A figure-eight knot is knitted on it with a wedge-shaped wooden bookmark. A carabiner snaps into the knot loop. The site of the knot is chosen in such a way as to fasten the carabiner to the cargo rope, that is, I will stutter the loop around the support. In this case, the loop should be well stretched in order to loosen the tension of the cargo rope as little as possible.
Instead of the “eight”, you can use the “carbine half-bowline” knot (Fig. 8), which is very easy to unravel after the crossing. Experimental studies have shown the reliability of this assembly under loads up to 1000 kg.
Then the chain hoist is restored and the maximum tension of the rope is repeated to remove the load from the holding loop. At the moment of unloading, the grasping node of the retaining loop moves towards the support. After loosening the tension, the load is taken over by the cargo rope and the carabiner fastened to it. Now you can finally disassemble the chain hoist, remove the cargo rope loops and supports.
In order not to miss the transport rope into the water, it is fixed in the carabiner of the cargo rope with a figure-eight knot.
You can wind the cargo rope around the support immediately when building the chain hoist. This will shorten the tensioning time, but make it more difficult due to the friction of the weight rope against the support, which is much greater than the friction against the carabiner. This option is recommended only in cases that do not require high tension on the load rope.
When building a crossing, the following safety measures must be observed: in the vicinity of steep banks, work only with self-belay; when pulling the cargo rope, one should not be opposite the chain hoist, since in case of burning out the grasping knot, injury by carabiners is possible.
TRANSPORT OF PARTICIPANTS AND BACKPACKS
Each participant puts on an individual belay system and a direct crossing over the water begins on a cargo rope. A cargo carabiner is attached to the cargo rope, preferably with a block. In the middle of the transport rope, a “conductor” knot is knitted, the loop of which is inserted into this carabiner. The group helps the first crossing participant to fasten his belay system to the cargo carabiner, and he starts, pulling himself up with his hands, to move along the cargo rope to the opposite bank (Fig. 9).
The participant who is on the opposite bank at this time chooses a transport rope, preventing it from falling into the water. One of the participants on the starting bank gives out a transport rope. Both insurers work in mittens.
Usually, at the end of the crossing, due to the sagging of the rope, the tourist has to move upwards. Therefore, the insurer from the opposite bank helps him, smoothly pulling the transport rope.
When the first participant reaches the opposite shore, he, with the help of his friend, unfastens from the cargo carabiner. The cargo carbine is returned to the original side of the river with a transport rope. In the same shuttle (ferry) way, special equipment can be sent back for subsequent participants.
Other participants and backpacks are transported in the same way. When several tourists cross to the opposite shore, they will be able to drag the crossing tourist with the help of a transport rope. Therefore, it is recommended to transport strong participants first, and then weak ones and backpacks. The dragged participant should not touch the cargo rope with his hands in order to avoid falling under the cargo carabiner and injury.
The most experienced participant is the last to cross. He has to fasten himself to the cargo carabiner. Before starting the crossing, he must check whether the transport rope and the free end of the cargo rope will not get tangled during his movement along the crossing and the subsequent pulling of the ropes from the opposite bank.
With a small excess of the fixing points of the cargo rope on the supports above the water level, a poor stretch, the sagging of the participant as he approaches the middle of the crossing can lead to flooding with water. Therefore, when crossing the first and heaviest participant, haste and recklessness are unacceptable. As soon as the tourist begins to touch the water, the movement stops and the group immediately pulls the tourist with the help of a transport rope to the original shore. The point of attachment of the cargo rope on the support, if possible, is raised or a support from poles is placed under it, and the degree of tension of the cargo rope is increased.
In case of a significant inclination of the cargo rope towards the opposite bank, it is necessary to slow down the speed of the participants with the help of a transport rope. Rapid progress along the crossing can lead to burning the weight rope, flooding heavy participants with water or injuring participants on the support on the opposite bank.
REMOVAL OF THE FERD
The end of the transport rope on the starting bank is fixed in the carabiner of the cargo rope loop on the support. Therefore, if you pull the transport rope from the opposite bank, the cargo rope will slide through the carabiner around the support.
After the last participant has crossed, a knot is untied that fastens the cargo rope to a support on the opposite bank. Several tourists take hold of the transport rope and begin to pull the ropes. Since the cargo rope inevitably falls into the water and can get tangled in stones or snags, you need to pull the ropes quickly. After pulling out, the ropes are marked and the crossing ends there.
The self-removal of the crossing allows you to avoid the dangerous crossing of the last participant.
The described method of hinged self-detachable crossings in the same or simplified version can be used to organize railing insurance for other types of crossings or overcoming mountain obstacles.
POLYSPASTY.
Often, when operating in the mountains, it becomes necessary to move heavy objects, for example, during the evacuation of the victim. When moving an object, to overcome the force of resistance to movement, it is necessary to apply a certain traction force. It is created by the muscular energy of people or animals, and if it is insufficient, by converting this energy with the help of chain hoists.
Polyspast- (from the Greek polyspastos- pulled by many ropes) is a mechanism consisting of a system of movable and fixed blocks bent around by a cable for lifting and moving loads. It allows you to get a gain in strength (the degree of increase in the applied traction force in the chain hoist is called the gear ratio or multiplicity of the chain hoist I). But at the same time, the speed and path traveled by the object being moved decrease in direct proportion to the increase in force (that is, the speed of movement of the end of the cable to which the traction force is applied is I times the speed of movement of the pulled object, and the path traveled by the pulled object will be I once less way passed by the traction end of the cable).
A simple chain hoist: 1 - a hook (ledge, tree) for which the entire system is attached, 2 - a carrying carabiner, 3 - chain hoist carabiners, 4 - a pulling grappling knot, 5 - a fixing grappling knot, 6 - pulley pulling direction.
The use of chain hoists is advisable in cases where the pulling force of the available traction means is less than the effort required to pull out the object. In mountain training, chain hoists are also used in the course of building crossings for pulling a transport rope. Polyspasts are assembled from carabiners, block rollers and rope. Anchors are used to secure one of the ends of the rope in the chain hoists (German: Anker - anchor).
Blocks are used to increase and change the direction of traction. They are single and double roller. Coefficient useful action(Efficiency) of a single-roller block on a plain bearing is 0.96, and on a rolling bearing - 0.98. The efficiency of a simple chain hoist can be taken equal to the product of the efficiency of all blocks included in the system, and a complex chain hoist - the product of the efficiency of simple chain hoists of which it consists.
To connect the movable blocks in the chain hoist system with the object and to fasten the fixed blocks to the anchors, carabiners and loops are used, made from segments of the main or auxiliary rope. In this case, the rope, depending on the possible load, is used in one or more additions.
Local objects (trees, rock ledges, stumps, heavy boulders), artificial structures (buildings, vehicles), as well as fixed rock pitons are used as anchors.
With heavy loads and insufficient reliability of the anchor, the fastening of the cables should be carried out as close as possible to its base. In some cases, braces can be installed to reinforce the anchor tree.
The brace device when using a tree as an anchor.
In the absence of suitable local items from improvised materials, the following anchor devices can be built:
- triangle anchor (consists of three logs tied with a rope and laid at the top to the object being pulled out in trenches dug in the upper soil layer. If necessary, you can load it with stones laid on top.)
Triangle anchor.
- horizontal anchor (represents a log laid in a ditch, which has a one-sided bevel to hold the log when the object is pulled out. In the middle part of the ditch, perpendicular to the log, there is an inclined trench for the output of the cable fixed to the log. It is built on solid ground.)
Horizontal anchor.
- vertical anchor (constructed on hard and soft soils. The anchor log is installed in the anchor well at an angle of 15-20 ° against the direction of the traction force. The depth of digging the anchor log into the ground depends on the terrain conditions and the expected traction force. In the upper and lower parts supporting boards are placed under the anchor log (pieces of log, thick branches). After installing the anchor and supporting logs, the anchor well, if possible, is covered with earth and carefully compacted.
vertical anchor.
When using several anchors, their uniform loading during the operation of the chain hoist should be ensured. In most cases, this can be achieved by using compensating loops.
Examples of compensating loops.
According to the device, chain hoists are divided into simple and complex. In a simple chain hoist, all blocks are wrapped around with one cable. In a complex chain hoist, several simple chain hoists are interconnected. The chain hoist scheme is selected based on the possible magnitude of the forces of resistance to the movement of the object and the traction capabilities of the means of evacuation.
A variant of a simple chain hoist device for lifting the victim and the attendant: 1 - anchor (interlocked loops of the main rope or 5-6 strands of the cord attached to hooks, ledges, trees), 2 - carabiners, 3 - main rope, 4 - direction of pull, 5 - the direction of the rope to the victim and accompanying (cargo), 6 - grasping knots.
When constructing chain hoists, a static rope is used. The end of the chain hoist cable, which is attached to the object being pulled out, to the movable block or to the fulcrum on the ground, is called the anchor. The end of the cable connected to the traction means is called the running one. The part of the chain hoist cable, stretched from one block to another, from the block to the attachment point of the anchor end, or from the block to the source of traction, is called the chain hoist branch.
The traction force to the object should be applied, as a rule, symmetrically, and if it is large, it should be dispersed.
Pulley blocks must be mounted so that the cable does not change the direction of bending when moving from one roller to another, otherwise the service life of the cable and the efficiency of the pulley block are significantly reduced.
To obtain a larger gear ratio, it is better to mount the chain hoist so that the end of the traction cable runs off the movable block. To do this, if the number of rollers of the blocks is even, the anchor end of the cable should be attached to the movable block, if it is odd - to the fixed block (at the anchor device).
Examples of simple (left) and complex (right) chain hoists.
When using chain hoists, the following point is important. As a result of the interaction of an object (primarily its protruding parts) with the environment (soil, trees, bushes, rocks), resistance to movement arises. Therefore, even before the start of the ascent (evacuation), it is necessary to foresee which elements of the object or local objects can catch on to each other and eliminate them, for example, cut (pull out) bushes, put protectors or blocks on the bends of rocks that reduce friction.
Hinged ferry
Crossing on a stretched rope. It is organized over a ravine, canyon, glacial crack, mountain river or other obstacle. Mounted crossings are divided into horizontal, inclined, steeply inclined, mounted crossings with a large sag (elliptical), etc.
Rigid, horizontal crossing
1. Only a double rope is allowed on the crossing.
2. The hinged crossing is fastened on reliable supports (trees, concrete and metal piles, referee support loops made of double rope, etc.), with special knots (see Crossing knots).
3. The distance between supports, as a rule, does not exceed 20 - 40 m.
4. Above the command crossing, above a mountain river or at a height of more than 3 m above a hard surface, double judicial railings are stretched in parallel.
5. On crossings shorter than 10 m between supports, over slow water or at low altitude (less than 3 m), a single rope tension is allowed.
6. The first participant crosses according to the conditions of the stage (climbing, wading or on the referee's mounted crossing). The team insurance of the participant must correspond to the method of crossing.
7. The tension of the crossing is carried out with a chain hoist or other method, to the value necessary for a convenient and safe crossing of the participants. Wherein:
A). Too much, more than 300 kg per rope, tension and load of not more than 300 kg per rock hook (when fastening the crossing on rock hooks) should be excluded. Tension control is carried out by the team and judges independently, according to the method of small deviations (see Tension control). When the tension of the crossing is more than the limit, the crossing of the participants is prohibited and a re-stretching of the crossing is required.
b). In case of insufficient tension of the crossing, and the overflowing of the crossing participant with a water stream (when the participant touches the water or its conditional level), according to the conditions of the stage, under a fine (touching the water), the crossing of the participants is allowed or the participant is required to return to the original bank and re-tension the crossing. In the latter case, there is no penalty.
V). Insufficient tension of the crossing over a ravine, canyon, ice crack, leading to a deep sag of the participant and a large slope of the crossing near the coast, in the descent and ascent section, on the initial and target shore, requires the insurance of the participant as on an inclined crossing, through a carabiner or eight points.
8. Crossing of participants on a hinged ferry
a) Team members are transported without backpacks and other cargo, on a block or carriage with blocking self-insurance. It is allowed to suspend the participant on one safety carabiner with a closed clutch. The carabiner must be oriented vertically with the load axle, with the plane perpendicular to the crossing rope.
b) If necessary (stage conditions), participants are provided with additional self-insurance on the referee's railing.
c) Competitors are provided with an escort line, either from the source or target bank. The rope is fastened to the front, chest point of their LSS.
d) Participants cross over the head-first crossing.
9. The procedure for fastening to the ferry:
a) From a shelf or a steep bank. The participant is refastened to the crossing from the shore railing (accumulative or supply). Without detaching from the railing of the shore, the participant fastens the escort rope to himself and fastens to the crossing with a blocking lanyard. If there are referee railings above the crossing, he is fastened to them with a second lanyard (or a separate referee lanyard). It is suspended at the crossing on a block or carriage and unfastened from the shore.
b) In a safe area, the competitor first fastens to the escort rope from the starting bank. Then he fastens a short self-insurance to the ferry, then hangs on the ferry on a block or carriage.
If the escort is provided from the opposite bank, first a short lanyard is fastened to the crossing, then the participant is fastened to the escort, then suspended on a block or carriage.
c) The last participant, being on the shore (according to condition A or B), before fastening to the ferry, provides a system for its remote removal. He carefully lays the rope for removing the crossing on the shore, and fastens its free end to the end of the escort rope from the target shore. Then he fastens himself to the crossing with a short lanyard, fastens the escort rope to himself and the rope to remove the crossing fastened to it. Then it is hung at the ferry on a block or carriage and ferried. Escorted participants can pull it along the crossing.
10. The order of unfastening from the ferry: The unfastening of the participants from the ferry occurs in the reverse order.
a) On a ledge or a steep slope, the competitor first fastens with a loose lanyard to the bank railing. Then, in any sequence, he unfastens from the railing and escort.
b) On a safe platform, it is first removed from the block (carriage). Then, without detaching itself from the crossing with self-belay, it detaches itself from the escort from the opposite bank. Then unfastened from the crossing.
If escort was provided from the same shore, it is unfastened last.
It should be remembered that even on a safe site, the escort rope from the opposite bank of the crossing can be a danger to an uninsured participant and pull him into the danger zone.
11. Freight forwarding:
a) Backpacks and loads are transported along the crossing separately, on a block, carriage or sliding carabiner, by pulling a rope from the opposite bank. It is allowed to hang on one block from one to three backpacks.
b) Skiing and ski poles(V ski form TM) are transported in a common package, connected with a cord, with a suspension on two carabiners at the ends of the package.
12. Removing the ferry
a) Removing the ferry fastener from the tree
The last participant on the starting bank fastens the end of the pulling rope to the conductor of the carabiner. Its other end crosses to the opposite bank. The length of the rope should not be shorter than the crossing.
After the crossing of the last participant, the fastening of the crossing on the target bank is untied, and the carbine noose is removed with a remotely pulling rope.
b) Removing the crossing with the help of hook droppers
When fastening the crossing on rocky hooks, in order not to leave carabiners on them, the load-distributing loop is attached to the hooks with hook throwers (see Equipment). The last participant to each hook thrower fastens a guy from the end of the pulling rope, the other end of which is transported to the target bank. When the crossing is relaxed, the pulling rope overturns the hook throwers from the hooks, and the crossing is pulled ashore. So that the tee with carabiners and hook throwers does not sink and does not catch on the bottom, an empty 5-10 liter container is tied to it.
c) Removing the crossing with the help of a loop ejector
On a support, on which, due to high friction, the possibility of rope jamming, and for other reasons, it is undesirable to use a carabiner choke, a loop ejector is used on it (see Equipment). When crossing the main group and cargo, the dropper is blocked by a carbine.
The last participant removes the blockage and fastens a pulling rope to the thrower, the end of which is transported to the target bank. When the crossing is relaxed, the pulling rope overturns the hook of the ejector from the loop, and it is pulled off the support.
Judge's canopy of the team
It is usually used at low and medium class distances. All members of the team cross over the referee's double rope crossing. Principles of insurance, escort and transportation of goods as in a command mounted ferry.
Judicial mounted crossing of the individual championship
It is hung from a double rope on reliable supports. During the crossing, the teams are excluded: crossing the first wade or climbing and manipulations to tension and remove the crossing. SNP is usually used at low and medium class distances.
At the crossing, team insurance and escort are excluded (if necessary, they are provided by judges).
The participant transports the cargo (backpack or skis) along the crossing behind him, with suspension on a separate block, carabiner or carriage. The load is fastened to the participant's gazebo with a piece of rope 1-1.5 m. The cargo transported along the crossing must not be fastened to the chest of the participant.
Inclined mounted crossing of the descent
A crossing is considered to be sloping when a load or a participant with a suspension on a carabiner or block accelerates down. When hanging on a carabiner, rolling occurs at a slope of more than 15 °, on a pulley or carriage at a slope of approx. 10°. In competitions, they differ: An incline crossing is considered when, holding onto non-hands in protective gloves, the participant provides an adjustable descent. On a double rope, this is possible with inclinations up to 40°.
1. All competitors on the upper platform must be on a belay or lanyard. The working platform is separated from the safe referee marking.
2. On a safe site, participants do not work with the crossing (they do not give out the rope, do not insure, do not provide its tension, etc.).
The transfer of the end of the NNP is made by the first participant, according to the conditions of the stage.
5. The descent along the crossing is carried out on a gazebo carabiner, forward and down with legs, with braking by the rope of the crossing with hands in protective gloves.
6. The belay of the descending participant, including the last one, is provided through the upper point carabiner, by the participant on self-belay. From the lower point, its accompaniment and tightening is provided.
7. Unfastening from the crossing on the lower platform is made, as on a horizontal NP.
8. The crossing of goods is carried out with braking by a rope from the upper point and pulling the second rope to the lower one. A heavy load can be braked through a point carabiner. If the load is guaranteed to roll to the lower bank, it is allowed to lower it unaccompanied.
9. Skis and ski poles are suspended from the crossing, tied in a package, by its center of gravity, on a carabiner, across the crossing rope. He descends with rope braking through the carabiner of the upper platform by the participant in protective gloves, and pulling the other rope from the lower platform.
Inclined crossing of the descent in the individual championship
The referee's oblique crossing is used. The difference between the crossing of the participants is the absence of team insurance and escort (if necessary, judges) and in the transportation of goods.
1. The load is rolled along the crossing separately from the participant, on a block or carabiner, so that it is guaranteed to reach the lower platform.
2. The load can be transported on a separate block or carabiner, below the participant, fastened to his gazebo with a piece of rope 1-1.5 m.
3. If a participant with a load finds himself in a slack hole in the crossing, below the target bank, and he needs to go up the rope of the crossing, he must buckle the load in order to transport it behind him or pull it up with a separate rope after climbing to the target bank.
4. When transporting skis and ski poles, they are tied into a bag and hung by the center of gravity of the bag across the crossing, on the participant’s gazebo (so as not to injure him with the ends) or on a carabiner above the participant.
5. Ice axes or other stabbing equipment are suspended from the crossing with a carabiner, above the participant. They must not lag behind the competitor on the descent.
Steep descent crossing
A crossing with an inclination of 40 to 60° (if steeper, it is called a vertically stretched rope). When the steepness of the crossing is more than 50 °, it is allowed to tension it by hand, without a chain hoist and other devices. A single rope is allowed.
On the KNP, the participant, especially with a load, cannot provide an adjustable descent by braking with his hands. The descent technique is fundamentally different from the NP technique.
1. Requirements of the upper platform as for a sloping crossing.
2. The transfer of the end of the NNP is made by the first participant, according to the conditions of the stage.
3. Technique for tensioning and removing the crossing as for the above described, horizontal crossing.
4. The support for the crossing on the upper platform is carried out only from the railing (supply, radial or accumulative).
5. The descent along the crossing is carried out on a gazebo carabiner, forward and down with legs, with braking by the rope of the crossing with hands in protective gloves, with braking with a safety rope from the top point.
Participants are allowed to descend on a figure-of-eight or other device along a freely hanging rope parallel to the crossing. At the same time, the participant fastens the carabiner of a short self-insurance to the crossing.
6. Belay is provided through a figure-eight point or with a Z-shaped coverage of two carabiners of the top point, with a total coverage of at least 270 °.
The insurance of the last participant is provided through the carabiner of the upper point and the carabiner of the lower one, with a total coverage of the carabiners, not less than 270 ° or through the lantern eight of the participant standing on self-belay.
7. Unfastening the participant from the crossing on the lower platform is carried out as on a horizontal LP.
8. The descent of loads is carried out with braking by a rope through the carabiner of the upper point. A heavy load can be braked through the eight point.
9. Skis and ski poles are suspended, as on an inclined crossing (see above). The package is braked with a rope through the carabiner of the upper platform by a participant in protective gloves.
10. The descent rope on the figure-eight, with the provision of double-sided insurance, can be fastened with the upper end to the carabiner choke of the crossing, like a rope for its remote removal.
The steeply sloping crossing of the descent of the individual championship
1*. Participants descend along the crossing with the top judicial insurance or with fixing self-insurance (according to the conditions of the stage).
2*. Participants descend on a figure-of-eight or other device along a free-hanging rope, referee's or team, parallel to the crossing. At the same time, the carabiner of his short lanyard is fastened to the crossing.
3*. When descending with a load, it is hung under the participant, on the gazebo, with a safety net with a short piece of rope with a carabiner to the crossing.
4*. It is allowed (according to the conditions of the stage) to lower the load along the crossing with a separate rope or a rope of descent, before the descent of the participant.
5*. Skis and ski poles are tied into a bag and hung by the center of gravity of the bag, horizontally, on the participant's gazebo (so as not to get hurt). Such a package is allowed to be lowered along the crossing on a carabiner, with an additional rope or the end of the descent rope, to the descent of the participant.
It differs from the NPS in that the participants do not descend, but ascend along the crossing.
1. The first participant crosses and rises to the upper platform of the crossing in the manner prescribed by the conditions of the stage.
2. The rest of the participants climb the crossing with the top team belay, with a suspension on a carabiner or block, with a short self-belay, head up, in the direction of the ascent. It is allowed to assist by pulling on the safety rope, if the pull is performed by a non-belaying participant. It is allowed to assist with a pull by the belaying participant, if the belay has a fixing element on the upper platform.
3. Freight across the crossing is pulled separately.
Inclined crossing to the ascent(in individual championship)
It differs from the previous one in that single participants are transported.
1*. When the steepness of the crossing is more than 20°, the participants are provided with top judicial insurance.
2*. Cargoes are transported after the participant.
