The better to lubricate skis at home. How to oil wooden skis

... I rode this year in Bitsa on the first snow. On one of the climbs, I was stopped by a man who admitted that he had just bought himself plastic skis.
- Why do you easily drive up the mountain, but my skis go forward and backward - they roll the same way?
- And what did you smear them with?
- And what, they still need to be smeared?!

This dialogue, for all its seeming implausibility, is nonetheless very characteristic. Do I need to smear plastic skis, and how to smear?

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing,
Chief Editor magazine "Skiing".

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of whether how to coat skis. Agree, such a statement of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if skis with a notch do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to just those who have made their choice in favor of “ordinary” classic skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them on hold (so that they do not give back, do not slide back ).

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper.

This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. This middle part of the ski (block) must be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported holding ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is enough to buy a set of 4 holding ointments (for example, domestic Vista, Uktus, Festa, Zet, Ray or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.). etc.) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with a holding ointment, it (the ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you go skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take a warmer and colder holding ointment with you than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.

1. Skis are not held, or, as skiers say, “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to confidently push, when you push with your foot, they slip back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.

2. Skis, as skiers say, "stupid", that is, they don’t ride at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

After that, intensively rub the ski block first with a glove, removing the lubricant from the remaining snow and moisture droplets, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and, as it were, drying the ointment. You will have to apply much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of colder ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubrication. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue walking through the forest.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. Do you have a kit ski waxes"Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero will be smeared with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember about Golden Rule: on a ski trip, you should always take two briquettes (jars) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warm or cold, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

When you return home, remove the old wax from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After that, you can safely apply new grease to the remnants of the old grease. If you want to clean the skis clean (which, in general, is completely optional), this can be done with a piece of cotton soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded washer - it almost does not smell, so do not "offend" anyone at home with the smell of gasoline.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you outside with skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the ointment blocks you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), and the skis ... categorically do not hold, “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

So, you will completely manage with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment - red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We smear ourselves with red ointment at any positive air temperature, and purple - at zero and a slight minus. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy, like in winter. As a rule, in spring it consists of hard large snow-ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather, you need a purple klister.

How to smear skis with liquid ski wax? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing greasy drops of ski ointment onto the block (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

And now about why you have to fiddle a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski ointments, which in their consistency are very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, the skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper, and then with a wash. The second option is to pack the skis in a case, bring them home and clean them there. And yet, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after the end of the workout - there are fewer soiled clothes and sticky hands, and the ski bag does not get dirty from the inside. The obligatory need to clean the skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually the spring sun, a wonderful ski track and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive waist bag (skiers say “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a spray bottle with a wash. This is very a good option in one fell swoop to solve all your problems with ski lubrication for the next few years, so be sure to use it if possible.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly discourage you from trespassing. Trust me, modern plastic skis glide beautifully over the snow without any special treatment. This slip is enough for your eyes for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

Another thing is if your walks in the forest have brought you to such a state that you want to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer Moscow ski track or, more than aspirations, test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.

In this case, you already need to learn how to paraffin skis, you need to acquire not only a set of slip waxes (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal scraper, a ski preparation machine, etc. But it's nice work. So, you are already firmly "hooked on the needle" cross-country skiing It means that skiing has already become a very important part of your life for you. But this time we will not talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with glide waxes - this is beyond the scope of our conversation today.

VII. How to improve ski glide?

I confess to you that this chapter is a plug-in, I am forced to write it a few years after writing the article itself. I have to because I see that many of you, our readers, have questions even after reading this article, and I have to answer them after receiving your letters. That is, it seems that I still failed to explain some important, basic things in this article. For example, there are many questions about how to improve ski glide. Therefore, this chapter is a summary of everything already said in this article and in answers to your questions (as well as what was not said) about ski glide.

So, what affects ski glide?

Fork #1.

Smooth skis or notched skis? Remember that notched skis will always glide significantly worse than non-notched skis. More about this in the very first chapter of this article and here in this my answer to one of your letters:

Fork #2.

plastic type sliding surface . Again I address you to my answer to Natalya Sinitsyna Skis with notches do not go - just awful!- I talked in some detail about two types of sliding surface plastic - high molecular weight (expensive and fast) and low molecular weight (cheap and relatively slow). Please read. look at my car analogy. Remember that a wheelchair can be improved and upgraded in some way, but making it drive like a Porsche 911 or even like a Ford Focus is unrealistic.

Fork number 3.

Do you use slip lubricants? I emphasize that I wrote this article for beginners who are just taking their first steps on skis. Within this concept, I believe that plastic skis for sliding do not need to be prepared- modern plastics quite decently slide on snow. And yet, since this question comes up all the time, I will answer. The first thing you need to do is learn to distinguish between sliding lubricants and holding lubricants so as not to fall into the situation described here in this letter when our reader Tatyana Shalimova smeared the skis along the entire length with holding ointment and wondered why her skis did not go.

So, have you already learned to distinguish holding ointments ("clay") from sliding ointments ("candles", sprays, applicators, etc.)? Then -

Fork number 4.

Ointments of sliding of fast drawing ("lazy") or professional? First, you should keep in mind that you have a fairly large range of quick application glide ointments at your disposal (they are sometimes called "lazy" ointments). To apply these ointments to the sliding surface of the skis, you do not need to have any devices.

And finally, the pinnacle of ski preparation technique for skiing: the use of so-called paraffins, sprays, emulsions, powders, accelerators, etc. not household!), brushes, scrapers, fiberlen (special non-woven napkins for ski processing), paraffins, powders, accelerators ... I'm not sure that it is advisable to describe this rather complicated and expensive ski preparation process in an article for beginners. However, if I see that even within this articles for beginners which brushes are needed for a beginner to prepare the base of cross-country skis?

QUESTION ANSWER

After the publication of this article, letters began to come to me from time to time with "naive" questions, to which readers could not find answers in this material. At first I answered them privately, until it suddenly occurred to me that these answers might be of interest to a wider circle of our readers. So if you did not find the answer to your question in the article, write to me on my mailbox [email protected] Send me your questions and I'll be sure to answer them. In the meantime - the first questions and answers to them.

2. Aluminum ski poles bend. What to do?

3. Is it worth smearing skis for holding in orienteering?

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population of our planet on skis, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never need to bother yourself with the question of how to oil the skis. Agree, such a formulation of the question captivates - he took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft loose snow, and will not hold on more or less hard tracks. And, the most offensive, if notched skis do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to smear skis. This is a more difficult option, which guarantees, however, normal riding in any weather. However, the final choice is still up to you, and the article below is addressed to those who have made their choice in favor of "regular" skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them.

II. Ski lubrication kit of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper.

This is the most minimal kit you may need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upwards from the mount. It is this middle part of the ski (block) that must be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 ointments and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing, you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.

If for some reason an even layer does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to simply smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you are going skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and colder ointment than the one you just put on, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most typical cases of missing the ointment.
1. Skis do not hold, or, as skiers say, they “give away”, that is, they do not allow you to push confidently, when you push with your foot, they slide back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can again enjoy riding. It will take you only a couple of minutes to correct the lubrication.
2. Skis, as skiers say, “stupid”, that is, they don’t go at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in that middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticky” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you just need a little more time.

So, if ice or snow has formed under the block, peel them off with a scraper. If there is no scraper, this can be done with a branch, a point ski pole, the key to the apartment, the edge of another ski, etc.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. You have a set of ski ointments "Visti", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to smear with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember the golden rule: you should always take two briquettes (cans) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch for a ski trip. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it's warm or cold, you can adjust your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.

IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, a scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a grinding plug will be enough for you for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily positive. Sunday, sun, drops drive you out into the street with your skis, you smear yourself with the warmest of the briquettes of ointment you have, and the skis ... categorically do not hold, they “give away”. It's a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski wax (skiers sometimes call liquid ski wax klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economical ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a grinding stopper.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive waist bag (skiers say “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a spray bottle with a wash. This is a very good option for solving all your ski lubrication problems for the next few years in one fell swoop, so be sure to use it if possible.

VI. Glide ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

In this case, you already need to learn how to paraffin skis, you need to acquire not only a set of slip ointments (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal scraper, a ski preparation machine, etc. But these are pleasant chores. It means that you are already firmly “hooked on the needle” of cross-country skiing, which means that skiing has already become a very important part of your life for you. But this time we will not talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with glide waxes - this is beyond the scope of our conversation today.

Everyone knows that skis need to be lubricated before use - this way they glide easier on the snow, and the athlete feels more confident and comfortable during the walk. Many beginners do not perform this procedure on their own, preferring to give care equipment to professionals - great option if you have extra money. It's actually very easy to prepare your skis for skiing at home with some lube and a few simple tools. How exactly?

First of all, the skis need to be cleaned of dirt and remnants of old paraffin. A brush, a scraper and two straight arms are used for this. If you got the inventory used and unkempt, it also makes sense to go over the lower sliding surface with sandpaper. Plastic skis usually do not require polishing - but old wooden ones usually need it. Then we directly apply the lubricant ... by the way, a few important words about lubricants. They are presented on the market in a huge variety and a wide price range, but only professional athletes need to be well versed in the brands - any beginner and amateur is suitable, even the most inexpensive ones. Without fail, you will need paraffin slip lubricant, and holding lubricant will also not be superfluous: the first is applied in the front and back of the skis, and the second in the center (in the block area). From the first it is clear, it is thanks to her that the skis will glide easily without getting bogged down. Why is holding lubricant needed? It just serves the opposite purpose - "sticks" to the snow at the moment of the greatest load, so that it is easier for you to make a push.

More important point: you do not have to lubricate the skis often. If you use them two or three times a season, take care before the first trip - and that's it. Well, if you ride constantly, then, of course, the lubricant will have to be updated several times over the winter. A characteristic sign that it is time to take up the iron again is a white coating on the sliding layer.

What kind of iron? Paraffin is a thick substance, and when cold, it will not smear well on a ski. Therefore, it is heated using a special tool, which can also be bought along with lubricants at a sporting goods store. You can, however, get by with improvised means: pour boiling water into the most ordinary enameled mug and smooth the waxed ski with it for a couple of minutes so that the lubricant is absorbed and lies in a thin, even layer. However, if we're talking about how Right lubricating skis at home is more correct (and more convenient) with an iron. Just do not use a household iron, you do not need to get it dirty - otherwise, traces of grease will then appear on clothes.

Finished with smoothing - take out the skis in the cold so that the paraffin froze. Half an hour is enough, and they will be ready to ride.

For your information. Our glorious grandfathers and grandmothers used for rubbing wooden skis heated pork fat. This is not as convenient as modern lubricants, but it will also work on occasion. If, for example, you want to ride right now, urgently and suddenly, and there is no time for long manipulations, just apply hot lard on the ski and rub it intensively with a piece of felt for about five minutes.

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Plastic skis today are much more popular than wooden ones, they are more comfortable and glide better, but, like wooden ones, they need lubrication. If this Sports Equipment do not lubricate, then there will not be a smooth and easy move, so in this article we will talk about how to properly lubricate plastic ones.

Do plastic skis need to be lubricated?

People who have just started skiing do not yet know about many of the intricacies of caring for this sports equipment, and, of course, most beginners do not understand why skis should be lubricated at all.

This procedure is simply necessary, because lubricated skis glide much better, snow does not stick to them, and the shelf life of the skis increases from this, because the lubricant protects the sliding surface.

In order to process skis, as a rule, they use a hard brush, a special iron, a plastic scraper and paraffin-based lubricants, which come in several types:

Liquid lubricants. As a rule, this lubricant is applied in a thin layer, then the skis are dried and their surface is carefully polished. The advantage of this type of ointment is that it has a very high coefficient of adhesion with snow.
Solid lubricants. This type of ointment should only be applied to a preheated ski surface, for this a special iron is used (many skillfully use old irons with heavy thick soles).
Sprays and gels. Usually professional athletes use this form of ointment. it requires certain skills in applying to the ski surface.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

To cope well with this task, you should consider some rules:

Skis must be cleaned and dried before being lubricated.
If you have opted for a solid type lubricant, then it should be applied in several layers, with each layer must be rubbed separately and very carefully, and the last layer should be applied outdoors. Then the skis must be cooled for 20-30 minutes.
If your style of skiing is classic, then you need to lubricate the back or front of the skis.
Moisture should not get into the lubricant, so close the jar tightly, otherwise such an ointment will not be of any use.

How to lubricate new plastic skis?

In order for your skis to serve you for a long time and meet your requirements, they need proper care. If you purchased this sports equipment, then before you go out into the snow you need to lubricate them:

Published: December 19, 2012.

How to lubricate your skis? Do you need to lubricate your skis at all? These and many other questions arise for those who buy skis and plan to run or walk on them. In fact, why lubricate the skis?

Why oil your skis

Why lubricate skis? It is necessary to lubricate skis, both plastic and made of wood. The fact is that no matter how soft the snow is, friction occurs between it and the ski. The force of friction depends on the material from which the skis are made. In addition, the friction force depends on the quality and condition of the snow. Plastic skis glide better in the snow. Plastic has less friction force than wood.

In any case, the force of friction is present. In order to reduce it and lubricate the skis. Ski lubricant reduces friction between skis and snow. Try to check it yourself. Ride on ungreased skis. Another time, apply lubricant to the skis correctly according to the weather. Lubricated skis will glide better. This is if the weather is about the same.

After all, the friction force also depends on the temperature and condition of the snow. And to eliminate these factors, apply lubricant to one ski and not to the other. Then you will clearly see the benefits of lubrication. And the lubrication of cross-country skis, that is, skis for running and walking, is of particular importance.

Have you ever watched a skiing competition? If you watched, you probably heard that sometimes athletes complain about improperly selected ski lubricants. In any case, skis glide better with lubrication. Only someone was able to pick up a lubricant better and his glide was better. Accordingly, the result is better. After all, it rolled faster!

Lubrication is used not only for sliding. Sometimes when pushing, the skis slip back. After all, the ski can roll forward and backward. And we just need to move forward. To prevent the ski from slipping back, ointment is also used. A warmer ointment is applied under the ski block and during the push the ski sticks to the middle part of the ski track and does not slip.

Well, it is not yet necessary to exclude the purely practical benefits of lubrication. Lubrication reduces friction. And this means only one thing - lubricated skis wear out less. If you feel sorry for your skis, then lubricate them. And they will repay you with better gliding!

How to grease skis

What ointments are used to lubricate skis? If you are an athlete, then you already know. Athletes use a wide variety of ointments and paraffins from various manufacturers. From inexpensive to well, very expensive in price. For ordinary skiers, this is not so important.

What is ski lubricant

Lubrication for skis is different. There are many manufacturers of ski lubricants. Everyone has their own recipes. IN general view such an arrangement. There are solid ointments, liquid ointments, paraffins, gels and sprays. Gels and sprays are more for professionals. And we have enough solid ointments and paraffins.

Don't bother with the choice. Over time, you will understand what you need. Buy two sets to get started. This is a set of ointments for temperatures from a few degrees of heat to minus thirty frost. And at the same temperature a set of paraffins. And do not forget the cork for rubbing and leveling ointments.

Paraffins are more commonly used for lubrication plastic skis. The ointments are used to lubricate wooden skis and as holding ointments for plastic skis.

How to apply ski lubricant

How to properly lubricate plastic and wooden skis, or rather what paraffins and ointments to use for this, is written in the instructions for them. Read the instructions carefully, everything is detailed there. Everything is simple. To start. If you want to lubricate the skis with paraffin according to the instructions, then buy another iron to level the ointments and paraffins.

Ointments will be consumed over time. You will use some ointments more often, others less often. The consumption of ointments will be different. The most popular ones, as they are spent, can be purchased in the form of separate tubes at the desired temperature. You can even experiment if you want. Buy ointments of the same temperature from different manufacturers. Very often, they differ in slip.

How to lubricate your skis

How to lubricate your skis? Carefully read the instructions for ointments or paraffins. The words "block" and "ski ends" are found there. Who read my previous article, he knows, but for the rest I will say. The block is the middle part of the ski, and the ends of the skis are the toe and heel.

How to determine where to apply ointment

Determining where the last starts for your skis and your weight is easy enough. Stand on both skis on a flat surface. Place a sheet of paper under the middle of the skis. Under the middle of the skis should be clear, the sheet should move freely. It shouldn't be pinched. If it is pinched, then, unfortunately, you have the wrong skis. How to choose the right skis by clicking on the link.

Move the sheet of paper forward to the ski toes. Where it gets stuck, mark this place on the side surface of the skis with a marker. Move the sheet of paper back to the heels of the skis. Where the sheet gets stuck, mark this place with a marker too. Then put the skis side by side and make marks on the same level on the other ski. ski surface from one mark to another and it will be a block.

Paraffins are slip lubricants. In principle, you can do without them, some ointments. But if you have plastic skis, then it is advisable to use paraffins. If you use paraffins, then the general principle of ski lubrication is as follows. We apply paraffins to the ends of the skis, and ointments to the block. We apply, naturally, on the sliding surface of the ski.

How to choose the right ski wax

We apply lubricant (paraffins or ointments) to the ends of the skis, choosing according to the air temperature outside. Athletes, for a more accurate selection, measure the temperature of the snow with a thermometer. For example, if the temperature outside is minus ten degrees, then we use an ointment with a temperature range of -5-12 degrees Celsius.

You may have other ointments and temperatures. I gave an example using my ointments. It is important that the temperature outside falls within the temperature range of the ointment or paraffin. On each tube the temperature of application of this ointment or paraffin is written.

We apply only ointment under the block. Moreover, we apply the ointment warmer than on the ends of the skis. This is done in order to prevent slippage of the ski during a push. That is, so that you can push with your foot. If you lubricate the same ointment as the ends, then most likely, when you push with your foot, the ski will slip back. Walking and especially running will be very difficult.

Warmer - this means that the temperature of application of the ointment should be higher than the temperature of application of the ointment, which was smeared with the ends of the skis. For example, if an ointment with a temperature of -5-12 was applied to the ends, then an ointment with a temperature range of -2-8 degrees Celsius should be applied under the block. That is, the next, warmer one from your set of ointments. I give an example with my ointments (you may have other temperature values).

From my experience, I will say that it is also important to take into account the actual air temperature. That is, if the temperature outside is minus ten degrees Celsius, then an ointment with a temperature range of -5-12 should be applied to the ends. And under the block, it is desirable to be five degrees warmer than the coldest temperature of the ointment range. In this case -10+5=-5.

That is, -2-8, it may not keep the skis at this air temperature. Since -8 is colder, the resulting temperature is -5 degrees Celsius. Therefore, under the block we will use the next one from the set of ointments. And the next temperature is 0-2. We apply it in a thin layer or mix it with ointment for -2-8.

In order to mix the ointment, we apply different ointments alternately with a thin layer on the sliding surface of the skis. For example, five centimeters of skis with one ointment, the next five centimeters another. And, so, the entire part of the block. Better in a checkerboard pattern, alternate to the right and left of the groove. Then take the cork and rub the ointment well with the cork. They will mix. After you have applied ointment or paraffin to the sliding surface of the ski, it must be leveled with a hot iron. Excess paraffin must be removed with a special scraper.

Just don't use an iron to iron clothes. You will surely burn your skis. Use special irons to lubricate skis. They are for sale. You can do without ironing. To do this, rub the skis with a cork very vigorously. From friction, the surface of the ski heats up and the ointment or paraffin softens. Rub to a uniform gloss of the sliding surface of the ski. There should not be clots of ointment. If they still remain, then grind them. Then rub the entire surface. Lubrication of skis, their preparation, takes about ten to fifteen minutes.

Adjustment of ski lubrication along the track

It is clear how to lubricate the skis? But, unfortunately, the temperature on the thermometer can differ significantly from the air temperature in the place where you will ski. Therefore, for insurance, you need to take with you both a warmer and colder ointment than the one that was used when lubricating the skis. And, of course, a cork.

If the skis slip backward when kicked. In this case, remove the skis, wipe the sliding surface of the ski with a mitten. Prepare ointments. Under the block you need to apply a layer of warmer ointment than you applied earlier. Rub the ointment with a cork. If the skis frankly "stupid", well, they don't go, that's all, then apply a layer of colder ointment to the ends of the skis than you applied here earlier. Smooth the ointment with a cork.

Here are some simple tips to help you have a good time on the track. And using various techniques movements, which I will talk about in the following publications, and also feel like a real skier. In any case, exercise fresh air will only benefit you. Forward, on the ski track, for health!

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said, for those who are new to this field. Ski ointments are of two types: i. For a classic style, the front and back of the ski is lubricated with glide paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (blocks) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the block up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In skating style, skis are lubricated along the entire length with glide paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is to ski on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and time to prepare the skis will be minimal. But if you are going to compete and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft wax (applying it, removing it and then brushing), applying several layers of weather wax (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then scraped off , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not very strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - paraffin contamination. They can ruin floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. Such training will be to the liking of only ardent fans of skiing. Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and paraffins of slip.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use additionally. These funds are not cheap, and quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not professional sportsman, then it is better not to spend money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is not limited, but it does not make sense to buy it in large quantities.

If where you intend to ride a humid climate, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need to do is apply them to the skis with an eplicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hair dryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are the considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski ointments holding.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the ointment layer), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying several layers.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for sub-zero temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment whose lower limit of the temperature range is three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you didn’t guess with the ointment, and if the skis slow down excessively, then apply a more “cold” ointment on top, if they slip too much - a warmer one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will take only a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be afraid to experiment with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you oil your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove any remaining wax before applying a new one. To remove the old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each.

Ointments in the liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, and then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be applied at positive temperatures. But he has one unpleasant property - he greatly stains the case. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene so as not to pollute or spoil the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to thaw and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but problems can arise under certain conditions:

Podlip. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking may occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball is formed under the block.
Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the composition of the ointment after a point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. Often this happens when the temperature of the ointment is a little higher than necessary.
The condition of the snow inside and outside of the track may differ, therefore, when leaving the track, problems may arise, the skis may brake too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade for the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, newbies skiing it may be believed that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set.

If the base of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for ski preparation will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and residues of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, whether you later hot wax them or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible action that will greatly impair the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with plus soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum, at which the paraffin will melt, and proceed to warm up the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This method of processing is suitable if you are not going to apply paraffin with an iron in the future.

A non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.

Sandpaper. It is used for sanding a ski last in a classic style in order to better hold the wax on it in the future. Not necessary. For sanding, any fine-grained sandpaper is suitable.

Metal cycle. Used to remove the old structure. The fan doesn't need it. Cycling skis requires a special machine and certain skills. But it is very easy to ruin skis with this device.

, with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.

. It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.

. It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.

. It is used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best applied to ointments, and cork - to accelerator paraffins. Required tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the level of training of the skier, you can in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking through the forest on plastic skis. It is not necessary to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one cork-grinding.

2) Sufficient. Kit for complete and intelligent ski care. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: the minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will suit a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluorine, a set of paraffins with fluorine, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear the back (!!!) of the ski.) Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with slip lubricants. The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time. If you've read Swix's or any other company's ski preparation material, you can estimate how long it would take to get one pair of skis to a minimum professional level: soft wax cleaning (application, plastic scraping, brushing), then 1-2 coats of weather wax (applying, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing). That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember good words his wife ... In short, you need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with your feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

Sliding lubricants.

Gliding lubricants come in many varieties. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice. If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins. From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Holding lubricants.

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure is under a block is also present, but at the same time, the ointment should allow you to slide on one ski and “slow down” only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques. Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit. For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork. Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home). Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag). At sub-zero temperatures solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems: Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block. Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes. The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. Also you can feel the difference in holding and sliding when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, for example, in the forest.

Necessary tools and their substitutes.

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears. A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70. Regardless of whether you later use a hot paraffin application or not, it is still better to process with an iron the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be Be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron. The following lists the main tools used in the preparation of skis, and considers the feasibility of their acquisition by amateurs. Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put on flat surface fine sandpaper with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end. Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats", but remove excess paraffin is also possible. Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary. Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock. Sandpaper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice. Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it. Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it. Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient. A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush. Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off. Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional accessories.

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles. It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch. Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified lubrication technologies.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools. Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron. One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km. There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What lubricants to buy.

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

This kit is enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin. Here is what is included in the required minimum kit: 3 - 4 jars (briquettes) of holding ointment covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing. Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline.

Sufficient.

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This set is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable skiing in the forest in any weather, but also for participation in most mass ski races such as the "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by an already quite advanced and trained skier. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments containing fluorine (solid and liquid), as well as paraffins containing fluorine (such a lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

And ski trips know that a necessary condition for the proper operation of sports equipment is its preparation before use. Regular lubrication of the skis makes it easier to glide on the snowy surface and protects them from rapid wear. Everyone needs lubrication, regardless of the material of manufacture: both plastic and wooden.

Types of lubricants

The most common ski lubricant is paraffins. They are available in standard size bars, but vary in price range. In the assortment of foreign manufacturers there is liquid wax with tubes. It is worth considering that in the central zone and in the south of Russia in the winter season, the air temperature can fluctuate significantly, and this is one of the factors affecting slip. Therefore, in the arsenal it is desirable to have several types of paraffins intended for use in different temperature ranges. Since paraffins are slip lubricants, they are used to treat the nose and heel of the skis. For the block (central part), holding ointments are used.

Lubrication of skis with paraffin is especially widely used in amateur sports for short training sessions and short hikes up to 15 km. In a professional environment, the requirements are completely different. Here skiers use more expensive means (accelerators). They can be presented in various variations, in the form of aerosols, powders, emulsions, etc.

Equipment and accessories for lubrication

In order to properly treat the skis with ointments and paraffin on their own, additional accompanying products are needed:

A special iron for application and distribution, you can use a regular old iron, but with care, and set the minimum heating mode.
Plastic scraper for removing the old paraffin layer.
Brush with coarse bristles, mostly nylon. With its help, the sliding surface of the skis is cleaned more thoroughly.
Used to clean pads
To lubricate the skis to ensure maximum glide, their surface is polished with a non-woven material. It can be old things made of nylon, wool or felt.

Ski preparation process

Lubrication of plastic skis is carried out according to the following scheme: first, the remnants of the old lubricant layer are removed with a scraper. Then, the entire surface in the nose and heel is carefully cleaned with a brush and sandpaper in the block. Only after that, the sliding surface of the skis is treated with paraffin, and the block with a holding ointment. For maximum results, paraffin can be applied in several layers. This method is used to prepare professional racing skis. In amateur sports, a single lubrication of skis with sliding ointments (paraffins) is a sufficient condition. In conclusion, the sliding surface of the skis is to be polished.

To cool and fix the lubricant, the skis are taken out into the street for about 30 minutes. After this time, they will be ready for use.

To ski trip gave you pleasure, you need to carefully prepare the skis by applying the appropriate lubricant. How to oil your skis at home- more on that later.

Why oil your skis

If earlier the range of skis was limited only to wooden models, today you can buy plastic and combined ones. However, this does not detract from the merits of wooden skis, and their use is still relevant.

The need for lubrication of wooden skis is partly due to the characteristics of the material: the tree must be protected from moisture. Also, a lubricated surface glides better and reduces friction with snow.

Therefore, if you are wondering whether it is necessary to lubricate the skis, we give you a definite answer: yes, this procedure is required. And it concerns not only wooden, but also plastic products.

What you need to lubricate skis

"Paraffin skis" - this is the definition that skiers came up with for this procedure. Use of paraffin a is one of the most famous ways to lubricate skis in home conditions.

You will need:

Iron. Every skiing professional has a special ski lubrication iron that makes the procedure twice as fast. The economy option is an ordinary old household iron. Attention: we need an old iron, which has not been used for ironing for a long time. It is highly likely that after lubricating the skis, it will be impossible for them to iron their clothes.

Working surface. You need a large table on which you can put your skis. Do not forget to cover unnecessary oilcloth or newspapers so as not to spoil the surface.

Paraffin lubricant for skis. Go to a sports store - there you will be offered several types of paraffin lubricant to choose from. The price range is very wide; for amateur skiing, an inexpensive universal lubricant with a wide temperature range is suitable. The economy option is an ordinary paraffin candle, which you will probably find at home.

Ski brushes. Ideal if you buy a set of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium hard nylon and soft nylon. But you can get by with a brush made of nylon of medium hardness. Attention: ordinary household brushes can be too hard, and there is a risk that you will damage the surface of the skis.

Scrapers. They are used to remove excess wax and clean the groove.

So, everything is ready. Skis, clean and dry, lie on the table, iron and lubricant at the ready. Now let's move on to the process itself.

How to oil wooden skis yourself

The first step is to prepare the skis. Obviously, they must be clean and dry. Take a brush and lightly clean the surface of dirt.

Next, we take the lubricant and rub it on the sliding surface of the skis. By the way, many of them end there. However, keep in mind that without exposure to high temperatures, the lubricant will not be absorbed, and it will last for a maximum of 2-4 km.

Now turn on the iron to the lowest temperature and carefully iron the surface of the ski. The grease will melt and soak into the wood. If you don’t know how to properly lubricate your skis, or you are doing it yourself for the first time, then keep in mind: holding the iron in one place for a long time is not worth it, 2-3 seconds will suffice.

After that, take a break. Let the skis cool to room temperature. Then pick up a scraper and remove excess from the surface and groove.

That's all. You know how to lubricate classic skis with paraffin. As you can see, the process is not the most difficult, but you will have to tinker.

How often should skis be oiled?

Do not forget that you need to lubricate your skis regularly, at least 3 times per season. Thanks to this, you will be comfortable riding them, and the life of the skis will increase several times.

How do you know when it's time to oil your skis? A sure guide will be the appearance of a light gray coating on the surface of the skis.

If you do not want to devote too much time to this procedure, contact a specialized workshop in your city or a sports store. Now various paste-like lubricants are sold, lubricants in cans, which can be used even outside the home while skiing.