How to knit rope insurance. We knit knots

Original taken from mr_aug V

Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Likbez. Theory and practice of entry level

In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training in the most simple way for absolute beginners in the subject.
I will tell you about the terms and the simplest techniques of descent and ascent that everyone can master.

Just a few months ago, in order to collect this information, I had to climb the Internet for a rather long time, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.

The article turned out to be big, but you can’t throw out the words from the song. She wrote for a long time. Right in parallel with writing, I experienced or mastered something new and included it in the article.
Also, I do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.

Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.

So. It all started with the great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of movement on a rope. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.

Now we will slowly begin to disassemble each item of equipment and the term that may meet on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.

The first thing we need is rope.

Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t go down from there.

Two types of ropes are used in mountaineering: static(static - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are characterized by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.

The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the jerk that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics is very often used for belaying climbing. For lower insurance, it is generally required.

For a simple descent and ascent on a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 meters is enough for everything and still remains. The budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).

Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in promalp - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the descender.

I advise you to stop at the golden mean - 10 mm.

And if we touched the ropes, then we can not ignore repsnur(repic, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8mm. It has a bunch of applications, ranging from the organization of self-insurance and ending with the manufacture of shoelaces.

In general, the paracord was not lying around.

I use a 5mm cord, a skein of which is almost always in my backpack.

With the ropes sort of figured out.

From the ropes we smoothly pass to the knots.

There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on some of the most in my opinion demanded.

First it eight, we can say - this is the main node that can be used in almost any case. Very reliable knot, practically does not weaken the rope.

The figure eight is used for bindings, both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and lengthening ropes, in general, for almost everything.

You need to learn how to knit a figure eight loop.

Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than the figure eight, but knits faster. Required control node. Not absolutely reliable. Tie a better eight.

You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will insure ourselves.

Well, knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.

Note! The free end of the rope should come out from the opposite side of the carabiner sleeve.

Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, now you can climb and descend?

In principle, yes, you can, as in the old good times rappel without any equipment.
To rappel - to descend with a rappel. Many people think that this is any descent, but it is not. Dylfer is a descending technique named after the inventor.

So, it is possible to go down in this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.

For convenience and safety, it has long been invented Individual Harness Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).

They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and do not let you fall.

Systems are full And waist.

I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by purchasing special straps.

For beginners, I would recommend a regular ISS without shoulders.

If you need a budget option, then the domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. In the people they are affectionately called "egg cutters". If there is enough money, then it is better not to be stingy and take something from the famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.

The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist girth
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not cargo, in no case should you insure and hang on them.

Dealt with insurance systems.

Now we need combine rope with ISS. You can do this in two ways. Knot and through a carabiner.

The knot is still the same figure eight, but I will talk about carbines a little lower.

The carabiner is fastened into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation of all manufacturers.
Very often they are taught to fasten into the belt loop and the leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake. increases the chance that the carabiner will warp and it will be loaded laterally. At the same time, only a knot can be attached to both loops.

Do not believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.

Now let's move on to carbines.

So what are carbines.
Firstly, they are sleeved and non-sleeved.
Their difference is that the clutched ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.

Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
With automatic it is convenient to manipulate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded sockets. And most importantly, always make sure that the carbine is muffled.

Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.

Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal with a similar weight have greater strength than oval.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.

Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.

Steel carabiners are heavy and very strong, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I did not communicate with them.

Now for strength.

Each carbine is equipped with this marking. It means that the carbine from the photo in the muffled state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.

You see how important it is to lock the carabiners and make sure they are positioned properly.

Note! The clutch of the carabiner should always "look" at you. This way you will see if the carabiner has accidentally disengaged.

If it is possible that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.

I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines of various shapes with threaded couplings. Production material - optional.

Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).

The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.

SU happen manual And automatic.

In manual landing stages, the speed of descent and braking depend only on the way the rope is threaded and on the force with which a person pulls the rope below the landing stage.

Automatic descenders have a special mechanism. We pull the handle - we go down. We release the handle - we hang. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.

In this article, I will only talk about hand-held devices. for a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alp, automatic devices are completely redundant.

And I will tell you about two types of triggers - this is a figure-eight and a Shikht puck.

SU eight- This is one of the most classic devices. Looks like this.

The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents, the rope will be full of "lambs" that will then have to be untangled.

The advantages include several options for refueling the rope.

There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the speed of descent is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.

Well, at any time, the horned figure eight can be blocked by winding the rope around the horn.

Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. It has even more ways to fasten and adjust the speed of descent. More about this trigger device will be in a separate review.

By the way, take a look at the non-Petselevsky carbine. When it's decoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea in my opinion.

The second type of manual SU is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverse, etc.

Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a descent.

Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created that is threaded into a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.

A carabiner is fastened inside the loop.
Note! The cable is not a loaded part and serves only for transportation.

Let's say the stars align. You have bought a coil of rope, ISS, carabiners and a belay device.

Good, still needed helmet. But I leave it on your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet will not hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always elicit a healthy reaction.

Will not be redundant knee pads. Otherwise, bruising on the knees cannot be avoided.

Just as important are good gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm, you can instinctively release the rope from your hands from pain, which can be fatal.

Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.

Do not forget to call a friend with you who will carry out insurance. Haven't forgotten? Well done!

Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can go down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.

For the first workouts, the lower the better.

Now we put on a harness. Tighten and check all buckles. Ask a friend to check again.

The first step is to fasten the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one unconditionally reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These anchor points are called stations.

We will be attached to a living tree. This is a pretty safe anchor point.

We are tied to the tree with the same blessed eight, well, or bowline without forgetting the control knot.

There is another option to buy quickdraw from a 120 cm long sling and using a carabiner to create just such a station.

Using a semi-grasping knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "choke" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.

We'll do it like this.

Well, in general, such braces from the sling are very useful in the household. You have to take a couple.

The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a mustache of self-insurance. If you do not know what it is, then you can play it safe with a repic, as I am in the photo.

And since we are talking, I will say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are segments of a sling or dynamic rope, which are attached to the system at one end and to the insurance point at the other.

There are industrial production and self-linked.

Purchased looks like this.

Self bound so. A figure-eight mustache knot is attached to the system.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length - 55 cm. It mainly serves to attach to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.

A jumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you reach the latch of the jumar (how the jumar looks like, where it has a latch and what it is in general, I will tell you a little lower).

At the free ends of the self-insurance mustache, knots are knitted into which carabiners are fastened. I use a semi-grapevine with three turns. If you do not know how to such a node, use the figure eight.

Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. They created a station on it, snapped a self-insurance. Happened? Well done!

Now, at the end of the rope on which we will descend, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner, which was hung at the station.

At the other end of the rope, we also knit a knot and drop the bay into the "chasm".

This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall over the end.

Even if you think that the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure of it. Ask a friend downstairs.

If the rope passes over the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then it is worth putting on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (basin, a piece of a fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.

If the protector is not worn, then a couple of times this picture is obtained. Agree, it's not.

Passing the rope into descender(I hope you didn't forget it below). Pull the free end up and take out the slack.

Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, then you will not be able to fall.

At this stage, you can click the mustache of the lanyard from the station.

By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. An insurer should stand below, and it is desirable that this is not your worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.

The spotter must be ready to pull on the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from insurance by pretty climbers or talking on a cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.

We start the hand with the rope under the ass, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
With our backs we go to the edge, slowly giving out the rope by slightly relaxing the palm.

Resting with our feet, we hang out the fifth point so that the legs are at a right angle to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.

We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly give out the rope until we touch the ground.

Congratulations, the first descent is completed!

In the future, the descents can be complicated at will.

From the insurer, you can and should go to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).

Just for this, we learned the grasping knot.

The knot is usually knitted either above the SA or below. What is the difference?

If we knit a grasping knot above the SU, then in case of a breakdown, we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.

To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot, we need to rise a little. To do this, we need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.

In general, the task is not very trivial.
An easier option is to knit a grasping knot below the SU. In the photo, an autoblock unit is used.

In this case, during a fall, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.

We only need to take hold of the rope between the SU and the knot, thus we will unload the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
Like good method but it also has disadvantages. If the reason for the breakdown is in the destruction of the SS, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.

Read more about securing a self-insurance below the SU in a very sensible article:

Everything, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.

Even if you stop after having mastered only the basics, you have already acquired skills that, in certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, can save your life.

All about the descent.

Now it's time to touch climb on a rope, but first I’ll talk a little about clamps.

clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed by clamping the rope, hence the name.

Rope climbing requires two ascenders or one ascender + auto belay device.

The most common clamp is jumar. This is a clip with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (hence the term zhumarit, means to climb). It is advisable to have at least one.

Zhumars are left and right, under any hand.

The principle of operation of the jumar is quite simple. It is based on clamping the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.

We put an open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. Up, it slides freely along the rope, and when loaded, it is fixed. A loaded jumar cannot be removed.

For more security, you can click the carabiner like this.

A pedal is fastened to the handle of the jumar. All the same, the strongest muscles in a person are in the legs.
The pedal should be of such length that when standing in it with a fully extended leg, the jumar is at chest level.

Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but already under the left hand.

The rise on two jumars is done as follows.

We get up on the pedal of the left jumar. We push the right jumar up the rope as much as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. Making a push right foot- "Let's go up the stairs" Then we push the left jumar, etc.

With the mustache of self-insurance, it is better to insure both jumars.

Instead of the second jumar, you can (and even need to) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn off handle. It hangs on the chest. In the case of using with a waist ISS, it is necessary to additionally hang a special rope around the neck.

The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will show this method in a separate video.

We depend on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal put on at the knee. Pull up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hover on the crawl and push the jumar further.

At the same time, you can hold on to the jumar with both hands, and pass both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.

Climbing with jumar + front crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.

There is an option to do without jumar.
For example, using the crawl + pantin scheme.

pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is the same.

But I would advise at least one jumar, but buy it. In addition to lifting on it, you can also insure, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clamps that I highlight are safety clamps.

As you ascend, the belay ascender rides alongside you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.

They ride up freely, and when they fall, they block and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.

I also want to mention various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their small weight and size.

As a result, one or two such clamps can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.

In general terms, everything is on the rise.

Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And more specifically about the jerk factor.

A newcomer entering any forum in the discussion of any iron sees this term almost immediately.
Its essence is very simple to understand.

"jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.

A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether this piece of iron will fall apart during a jerk or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.

Quite simply: if we have secured something (a quickdraw, a belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the belt.

That's all. Thank you for your attention!

In my free time from the mountains, I go to the climbing wall. Recently I noticed how young climbers work with equipment. Well, it’s good, only a few of us know how to correctly fasten the rope into the quickdraws and correctly insure Grigri.
But everyone knows how to use the harness.

In the instructions for harnesses (Petzl, DB), manufacturers write that you need to tie to the loops that wrap around your legs and to the belt, and fasten the carabiners to the ring. It is even called - belay loop - safety ring. On the harnesses of Petzl it is drawn that it is necessary to fasten carabiners to him.

I think that the opinion of the manufacturer in such matters should be taken into account. He is responsible for what he does.

The safety ring is strong. According to the CE standard, it can withstand a minimum load of 15 kN (1.5 tons).

From the Editor:

If there is no CE mark on the harness (CE0082, CE0123, etc.), the manufacturer does not have a quality certificate.

According to Black Diamond, the average breaking load of safety rings on their (and some other) harnesses is 22 kN. Colin Powick, responsible for the quality of equipment in the database, conducted a study: he took 8 safety rings, rubbed some, and cut some. Then he broke everything. And here's what happened:

- What is this? It’s more familiar to me for two loops, and even more somehow ...

If you fasten the carabiner in this way, then it will not fit correctly, and the load will be across the main axis. So he is three times weaker. Add to this that Grigri and the eight periodically slide down the carbine and work like a lever under load.

From the Editor:

The combination of an incorrectly fastened carabiner (top and bottom) and a figure eight is deadly.

A free translation of the UIAA study, to which the link from the previous block leads, lies at proclimbing.ru.

The belay device, if it is not a figure eight (which, by the way, is positioned as a descender), is located correctly, as the developer intended, if the carabiner is fastened into the safety ring.

So, why can't you fasten a carabiner with a belay device to the bottom and top?

• He will stand across and become three times weaker
• Eight or Grigri will slide down and work like a lever
• The belay device will be in the wrong position

Why can't you tie a rope to a safety ring?

Because from contact with the rope, it will fray faster. It is not about one ascent, but about practice. There is a special place for binding, reinforced with an additional layer of material.

- All right, tell me what you need.

From the Editor:

Read the equipment instructions. In them, manufacturers write how to use it.

When climbing with a top or bottom harness, tie to two loops: the one that connects the legs and the one around the waist.

Fasten carabiners to the safety ring. Always. When belaying and descending.

- There is only one loop on my harness. What to do?

Buckle up and bond with her. But if I were you, I would buy a normal harness for mountaineering and rock climbing.

- And on my harness, the safety ring is already old, it's scary to insure from it.

It's time to throw her out. You can spend 10,000 ₸ (3,000 ₽) on your security every few years, right?

- That's how the coach taught me 15 years ago!

At that time he walked in a dilapidated harness. Then the harness was older than the coach is now. He fastened to everything at once and in addition knitted a piece of rope around his waist.

A belay system in the field of mountaineering is an element of equipment that a climber puts on and to which a rope is attached using a carabiner or. The belay system is designed to distribute the force during the jerk of the rope due to a fall and prevent injury to the climber. Individual harnesses that are used in mountaineering must meet the requirements of the UIAA.

In mountaineering, however, as in rock climbing or mountain tourism, there are several types of belay systems - chest harness or upper system, gazebo or lower system, combined or complete system.

The main components in the insurance system can be called:

• Buckle.
• Ring.
• Eyelets or so-called balconies on the sides of the system.

What is self-insurance?

A self-belay is a device that is designed to belay and position a climber on difficult mountainous terrain. The self-insurance must, without damage and destruction, withstand the largest calculated jerk and provide a load of no more than 12 kN to the broken one.

Self-belay systems are made in a production way or tied with your own hands from certified dynamic rope.

The safety chain includes: the belayer, the belayer's self-belay, the belay station, the belay device, the belay system, the intermediate belay points, carabiners and the rope that connects it all.

In the selection process, the main rule for the formation of the insurance chain is the use of equipment certified, tested and manufactured specifically for this task.

For this reason, it is strictly forbidden to use a static rope for the bottom belay and it is not recommended to use a mustache from a tape for self-insurance. However, it should be remembered that even the use of certified equipment cannot give guarantees, since the use of erroneous techniques or using equipment with errors is no less dangerous.

Self-insurance from the end of a ligamentous rope

A self-belay from the end of a tie rope can be tied in just a few seconds and, at the same time, no additional equipment is needed:

1. You need to choose how much rope you need.
2. Next, tie the stirrup.
3. Now insert a carabiner into it.
4. Ready.

This method is suitable either for leaders who work on two ropes, or for deuces. New UIAA certified dynamic ropes are capable of forty percent elongation or less during a 1.7 snatch factor.

The most secure self-insurance

They are made from a piece of dynamic rope. It takes about three or four meters of rope for such self-insurance. One mustache must be made short and used for clamping. It should have the optimal length so that the jumar, which is fastened to the mustache with a carabiner, is located at the level of the face. The second mustache must be made long, but it should not be longer than the outstretched arm. The latter is self-insurance.

To make the lanyard adjustable, you need to add a prusik to the base of the mustache. The grasping knot must be tied on the lanyard and attached to the harness in the same way as a lanyard. For shortening, you should take the slack between the carabiner and the grasping knot.

Such insurance is able to extinguish the energy of the jerk by tightening the knots, stretching the rope and etching in the setting knot.

These insurances are not advised to be used by participants in a climbing camp.

Ready-made ligamentous self-insurance

An equally safe option is ready-made ligamentous self-insurance. It is desirable that the lanyard be attached to the harness not with a carabiner, but with a semi-grasping knot. In such a situation, the carbine is an extra link in the belay system.

In the finished self-insurance, stitching is used instead of knots. During a fall on such a belay, part of the energy is absorbed by the stretching of the rope. It is forbidden to shorten the sewn lanyards out of the box, however you can tie a knot as above.

parsel prussian

Parsel-Prussik is the best option for lovers of cordalets and everything Western in general. It is knitted from a piece of cord with a thickness of seven millimeters. If the cord complies with EN 564 standards, then it is able to withstand a minimum of 9.8 kN.

The length of this piece is fairly easy to adjust. In the event of a break, the rope will pickle the grasping knot. In combination with stretching the cord, you get a less hard pull.

Sterling Chain Reactor, Metolius PAS and the like

The safest of non-rope lanyards. Each ring in such self-insurance is power. If the insurance is not damaged and fastened with two carabiners to you, then it is able to withstand exactly as much tearing as indicated in the passport by the manufacturer.

A semi-grasping knot is able to weaken it by 30-60%. Slings absorb energy worse than rope when pulled. A nylon sling is capable of dissipating about five percent of the energy of a jerk, which is very little.

In addition, they can withstand the passport load only if they are fastened with carabiners.

It is advisable to use such a lanyard in combination with a lanyard from the end of the tie rope.

Self-insurance tied from a sling

In principle, such insurance was invented for speleologists. For mountaineering, they are not very convenient - a long mustache is suitable for a jumar, and a short one is for carrying a basket when descending.

If we talk about the absorption of jerk energy by self-insurance, then such types of insurance will absorb worse than a rope, but better than Dinema. It is fastened with two carabiners. In fact, there are practically no amenities for climbers, but there are disadvantages.

Tied from a sling

Their advantage is that they are very light.

However, they also have several disadvantages:

• The presence of sensitivity to abrasion compared to rope lanyards.
• No length regulation.
• They absorb the energy of a jerk significantly worse than a rope.

Daisy chains of various types

None of the Daisy chains, in fact, is self-insurance - so say the manufacturers. The main purpose of Daisy chains is ITO - this is a climbing style in mountaineering, where the support points are artificial.

However, no one is interested in this - a lot of climbers use them as self-insurance because of the ease of use.

If you shorten the daisy chain in the wrong way, which is not so difficult to do, with a load of two hundred or three hundred kilograms it will break. If you shorten it correctly, but tie any knot, it can lose thirty to sixty percent of its strength.

For the reasons outlined above, it is not advisable to use daisy chains as self-insurance.

cliffs

Just like daisy chains, they are not self-insurance and are designed specifically for AID. Their breaking load varies from 120 kg for Petzel to 300 kg for Metolius.

Daisy chains can still be adapted as self-insurance, but with clips this will not work in any way, since the sling on the buckle will break under load.

Lanyards for ice tools

They are quite flimsy. Their main task is to prevent ice tools from falling down and can break under a load of 200 kg. Rubber bands can only be used for ice tools and in no case can be used for insurance or self-insurance.

Comparison of various types of lanyards from the passport of Grivel rubber bands

1. From the end of the main rope:

• Advantages - safety, easy adjustment, no need for additional equipment.
• Disadvantages - the scope is limited.

1. From the main rope:

• Advantages - safety, easy adjustment.
• Disadvantages - bulky size, inconvenient to remove.

1. From the sewn main rope:

• Advantages - safety, easy to take off and put on, mostly more compact than from a piece of rope.
• Disadvantages - it is impossible to adjust, the length of the mustache must be chosen carefully.

1. Parcel prusik:

• Advantages - relative safety, simple adjustment, easy to put on and take off, perfectly dampens the jerk.
• Disadvantages - bulky size, difficult to knit, only one mustache.

1. PAS and others like it:

• Advantages - relative safety, easy adjustment, easy to put on and take off, does not get confused under your feet.
• Disadvantages - poor absorption of jerk energy.

1. From string:

• Pros: Lightweight, easy to put on and take off.
• Disadvantages - it is impossible to regulate, poor absorption of energy of a jerk, less wear-resistant in comparison with a rope.

1. Daisy Chain:

• Advantages - light, easy to shorten, easy to remove and put on.

1. Cliffs:

• Advantages - easy and convenient to shorten.
• Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

1. Rubber bands for tools:

• Advantages - they themselves are shortened, light.
• Disadvantages - not self-insurance.

Thus, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. You can safely use - from the end of the main rope, sewn from a rope, from a piece of rope.
2. Use with care - Prusik parcel, made of sewn rings.
3. Not recommended for use - clips, daisy chains, tied slings, rubber bands for tools.

In the end, I would like to say that insurance, like no other part of mountaineering technique, requires regular and constant training and attention. Experienced climbers who have been climbing together for many years and have excellent command of climbing techniques, in practice, may never experience a real need for action in case of a breakdown of a ligament partner.

Therefore, it is necessary to know the procedure during a breakdown. In addition, it is necessary to be able to reliably and correctly organize a belay station - to use the relief and microrelief in a quality manner for the implementation of belay and self-insurance techniques.

Good day to all!
Came across the following post:

What is there to think about, the most important thing is to do everything wisely) Feel the instrument. There are all sorts of stupid rules. Well, for example, work with a drill without gloves. nonsense who invented this never worked with a drill. Well, or always be tied with a rope when working on the roof. Often, customers were tormented by this nonsense. The most important thing is to always think with your head when you do something. Understand what might happen in the next minute.

And I decided to find out how the members of the forum are insured when working on the roof. As a result, most are not insured in any way. And those who are insured do not tell exactly how they do it. All recommendations boil down to the fact that buy a rope, harness, jumar and you will be happy. And how to use all this good, figure it out for yourself.

I decided to jot down a little note on working with the rope. If you think that insurance is troubles for customers, then read this http://www.promalp.ru/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12400 .
So, high-altitude work is calledwork in which the worker is at a distance of less than two meters from unprotected differences in height of 1.3 meters or more. So if you climbed to a height of more than 1.3 meters, then you are engaged in high-altitude work, and they are an extremely dangerous activity that requires the use of insurance
A little about knots: in most cases, to tie ropes, it is enough to know three knots: a figure eight, a bowline and a bayonet, but I will also tell you about the conductor so that you can see its difference from the figure eight.
Conductor: It is knitted with one rope, which is folded in half and tied at the end simple knot to make a loop. You can also tie in the middle of the rope.This knot is very simple to perform - in practice it is the simplest non-tightening loop. Can be knitted in one end. Under load, it tightens strongly, crawls on a rigid rope. Used to attach a rope loop to something. To facilitate untying after use, you can first insert an object into the weaving of the knot. With a high probability of variable loads, it is recommended to knit control node.

Eight: can be tied at one end, does not creep under load and does not require a control knot.The resulting knot has a characteristic pattern resembling a figure eight, so it is easy to remember. Used when using a carabiner choke.

Bowline: "King of Knots" . Differs in simplicity, universality of application and lack of obvious shortcomings. The knot can be tied at one end or around a support. Bowline easily untied after application of a load. Under variable loads, the knot creeps strongly, so knitting control node required!

Bayonet: Unlike the eight and bowline bayonet does not apply to non-tightening loops. However, the scope of these nodes is similar. It is used to secure ropes to supports and weights to ropes. An important feature of this knot is that it can be tied under load. After unloading bayonet It is very easy to untie - it does not tighten at all!The number of loops of the rope around the cargo end can be any, but not less than two. Knitting a control knot is required!

The ability to knit climbing knots can be useful not only for amateurs extreme tourism or rock climbing, but also in any work with ropes in Everyday life. For example, on vacation, to securely fasten the tent extensions, at home - to hang clothes or tie a bag with a load. By the way, many do not even realize that they tie their shoelaces with a double reef knot! So, as it has already become clear, a piece of extreme tourism has firmly penetrated into our lives.

What are climbing knots and what are they used for?

Mankind, despite all the technological progress, could not come up with anything better, more convenient and more reliable for climbing than ropes. However, they need to be fixed on a support, connected to each other, etc. Climbers (including industrial climbers) need the ability to knit reliable knots, because often their life depends on it. How many ways to tie a rope currently exist, no one can say for sure.

Insurance

Many climbing knots, especially connecting knots, require additional fastening, because with jerks and loads, the ropes can “creep” into different sides. Therefore, an additional control node can often be seen at the free end. It is very simple and familiar to us since childhood, and everyone used it. To tie it, the running end of the rope is circled around the fixed (root). The result is a loop. The running end is threaded into it and tightened. A simple knot is ready. When using it as a "control", I tie it around the main cable. Almost all the simplest climbing knots require additional insurance, because they have the property of "creeping".

straight knot

Used to connect two cables of the same diameter. One of the most ancient knots. Archaeologists claim that it was used in ancient Egypt, around the 5th millennium BC. It is tied very simply: these are two half-knots that are sequentially tied one above the other. However, it is necessary to monitor the correct course of the ropes: both ends of one cable should come out under the loops, and at the second - above them. Otherwise, a very unreliable woman's knot will turn out, which will not hold during a jerk or load. Then the ropes will fall apart, and the case may end in disaster. A correctly tied knot is shown in 1 picture (4 on the left).

Using direct node it must be remembered that it can "creep" and untie when high load or a sharp and strong jerk, as well as if the cable is wet. Therefore, there should always be a simple “control” at the two free ends. Then, under load, the knot will only tighten more tightly and become practically ununtied.

"Grapevine"

A more reliable way to connect the two ends, because this knot does not have the ability to untie. But you will have to tinker with learning. But it can be used for ropes of different diameters. Also used to create loops and braces. Another important "plus" of this node is aesthetics. It looks good and practically does not interfere with the work with the cable. However, you will have to practice to learn more complex climbing knots. The diagrams will help you with this.

"Eight"

Consider the following climbing knots. How to knit a figure eight? This is one of the most versatile nodes. Can be used as a control and stopper. Under any load, it does not untie and has a gentle effect on the cable. So, with strong traction, a simple knot greatly spoils the ropes, reduces their strength and is very tightened. The “eight” can be untied after strong tension, and the cable will not lose its strength.

Another use is as a conductor knot, when a loop is made with it on a rope. Then you can throw it on any support or thread it into a carabiner.

This knot is made in almost the same way as a simple one: the running end goes behind the root, but is not immediately threaded into the loop, but makes another half turn. The cable starts as if from below.

The use of the "eight" for tying two ropes is known. In this case, a knot is loosely tied at the end of one cord, and the second is threaded into it, strictly parallel. This is called the counter-eight. One of the most reliable and simple ways connections. Does not require insurance.

Bowline, or gazebo

There are special strapping climbing knots. Bulin is the main one. This non-tightening loop is used for tying and belaying. As well as simple and straight knots, it has been known to mankind since ancient times. Archaeologists found it in excavations 3000 years ago. In its classic form, it was used to raise or lower people and various objects. The person was tied under the armpits, and things were simply threaded through the loop. Sailors often referred to bowline as the "King of Knots". It is very reliable with a stable load of any size, but with jerks it can “creep”, which leads to untying. Therefore, it is recommended to insure the free end with a “control”.

It is easy to tie a bowline. There are several ways. One of them is shown in the diagram above. You can do it the other way too. To do this, the running end is wrapped around the root. The middle part of the free rope is dragged into the resulting loop. The running end is threaded into the resulting loop. Now you need to pull on the root of the rope. It turns out that the middle loop, as it were, turns out in the opposite direction. Now you need to tighten the knot tightly and tie the insurance at the free end. Climbers simply have to be able to do bowline on themselves. Also, the gazebo knot can be tied with one hand. But this is somewhat more complicated.

Counter knot

It is used in cases where it is necessary to connect ropes of different diameters. Climbing knots are also suitable for tying ribbons and flat cables. From positive aspects It should be noted ease of execution, versatility and a wide range of applications. With a strong load, it does not “creep” and does not untie, but it can drag on very tightly. The latter can be attributed to negative points, since the cable may deteriorate.

The knot is knitted as follows. At the free end of the rope, a loose simple knot is made. The second cable is led towards, parallel to all bends. Then tighten tightly.

"Stirrup"

A very original knot, which is indispensable for various ascents and descents, because it allows you to create support for the leg anywhere and at any time when it is required. In addition, it allows you to fix the rope on supports or make a railing out of it. As the name implies, its appearance resembles a stirrup at the saddle. An important feature of the knot is that it is untied at the same moment as soon as the load is removed. Even with strong jerks and high tension of the rope, the “stirrup” does not tighten tightly.

It is very easy to tie it: right place two loops are made on the rope and crossed with each other. The node is ready.

Finally, I would like to note that knitting climbing knots is an activity that is necessary not only for rock climbers. It is useful and exciting even in everyday life. In addition, when working with ropes, motor skills improve. This skill can come in handy at the most unexpected moment, so train and be sure to learn at least 2-3 knots!