4.1.10 Ascending Lunar Node in the sign of Capricorn. Descending Moon Node in Cancer In a past life, the individual was too attached to the parental home, where he existed from birth until the end of his days. The parental home became for him that fortress, the walls

4.1.11. Ascending Lunar Node in the sign of Aquarius. Descending Lunar Node in the sign of Leo In a past life, a person, as they say, lived for himself. He knew how to show himself in front of others in the best light and use people for his own purposes. Thanks to his will, energy, artistry and

The Triple Nagual “The rule is final, but its design and arrangement are constantly evolving. But in contrast to what supporters of evolutionary theory say, who believe that with the adaptation of life, the accumulation of genetic mutations occurs in a random order, seeing

4.4.6.2. The Triple Meaning of Impermanence [Karmapa] says: They have three impermanent ones: The emptiness created by the mind (bios byas) is not permanent, Archium and moving thinking are not permanent. The made-compound six bands are not permanent. These three have

The Triple Code of Fate The numbers that follow from the name, surname and patronymic can be comprehensively explored. With the help of numbers, the essence of fate is revealed, which is hidden behind outside events that happen to a person. The number reveals the true essence of all things, its

13. The triple meaning of the concepts "Matter" and "Spirit" Some concepts in the occult literature have a double, and sometimes a triple meaning. This feature applies, for example, to such terms as "Brahma's Night and Day", "Brahma's Inhalation and Exhalation", "Evolution" and "Involution".

The Heart of the Triple Jewel A further benefit is that anapanasati brings us easily, completely and perfectly to the triple jewel (tiratana), the three Buddhist sanctuaries. The reason for this is that the essence or core of the Buddha, Dhamma and Sangha is

Triple Magic Circle Three is a sacred number in magic and for special ceremonies, you can arrange a triple circle for energy and protection. The number "three" represents the three aspects of the god figure in many religions: the Holy Trinity, the Triune Goddess, and the three phases

The Triple Warmer The triple warmer is the most complex organ and therefore the easiest to unbalance. This organ consists of three parts and connects the entire body (Fig. 20). It can be unbalanced, and then the failure of energy manifests itself in one of its parts.

CONTENT

1. STOPPERS (STOP KNOTS)

1.1. "FAST COOKING" STOP. KNITCH TYPE

1.2. STOP USING A DUNKEN ASSEMBLY

2. KNOTS FOR BINDING LINES

2.1. TRIPLE FISHING KNOT

2.2. CONNECTION "LOOP TO LOOP"

2.3. NODE "BLOOD TIES"

2.4. DOUBLE GREENER SLIDING KNOT

2.5. KNOT PETER MINENKO

2.6. KNOT FOR CONNECTING MONOPILLE FIELDS AND "BRAID"

2.7. ASSEMBLY TYPE "ALBRIGHT"

3. KNOTS FOR TIING THE HOOK WITH A SPATULA

3.1. LOOP KNOT WITH OUTER LINE END PASS

3.2. NODE TYPE "TROMBONE LOOP"

3.3. ASSEMBLY WITH OUTER WINDING LOOP

4. KNOTS FOR TYING THE HOOK WITH A RING AND SWIMMING

4.1. UNIT TYPE "PALOMAR"

4.2. KLINCH KNOT, IMPROVED

4.3 HOMER ASSEMBLY

4.4 GRINNER ASSEMBLY

4.5 CLINGE, HARDENED

5. WOBLER KNOTS

5.1. NODE "DENSE LOOP"

5.2. KNOT WITH A BLANK LOOP

5.3. KNOT TYPE "RAPALA"

6. AUXILIARY ASSEMBLY

6.2. NODE. FORMING A STATIONARY LOOP FOR A SIDE LEAD ON THE MAIN LINE

Title: Buy the book "The most reliable fishing knots": feed_id: 5296 pattern_id: 2266 book_

Stop knots, formed from monofilament line or thread (woolen is best) and tied over the main line, are most often used in snaps for float fishing using a sliding float with one or two attachment points. In most cases, this stopper is the top one. Its main purpose is to set the descent of the float, so it is necessary to move the stopper (with some effort) along the main line.

In addition, it should not get stuck in the guides of the rod when casting the equipment.

And, of course, after tightening, the knot should not deform the main forest

1.1. "FAST COOKING" STOP. KNIT TYPE "CLINCH" (CLINCH STOPPER KNOT)

1.1.1. Take a piece of monofilament fishing line 25-30 cm long and with a diameter the same or slightly larger than that of the main line.

Fold the piece in half, place it under the main line and press it with your fingers.

1.1.2. Throw the working end of the segment through the main forest and the auxiliary end. Thus, the main forest is inside the formed loop.

1.1.3. Make 4-5 turns of the working end around the main line and the auxiliary end, holding the loop on the main line with your fingers.

1.1.4. Pass the working end through the loop. Gently tighten the ends, after wetting the knot with saliva.

1.1.5. Trim off excess locking line, leaving 1.5-2 cm at the ends. These protruding ends will not interfere with the passage of the knot through the passage rings of the rod, but they can be used to tighten the stopper knot if it loosens when moving it along the main line.

Usually, the size of the diameter of the fishing line suitable for knitting the stop knot should be the same as that of the main line, or slightly larger. A good fluorescent fishing line for the stopper is better seen.

1.2. STOPPER USING A DUNCAN KNOT (DUNCAN STOPPER KNOT, SPRINGER KNOT)

1.2.1. Take a piece of monofilament fishing line with the parameters, as in paragraph 1.1.1. Bring the auxiliary end 5 cm long under the main line, put the working end behind it and press the loop formed in this way to the main line with your fingers, leaving the working end 10 cm long.

1.2.2. Bring the working end under the main line and start wrapping it and the loop.

1.2.3. Having made no more than 4 turns of the working end around the main line and loop, thread it into the latter.

1.2.4. After moistening the knot with saliva, gently tighten it by the working end, holding the auxiliary end and the main line with your hand.

1.2.5. If you do everything carefully, there will be only even turns of winding outside the stop knot. Such a knot will be easier to pass through the guides of the rod than previously discussed. But forming such a node is more difficult.

1.2.6. By the way, if you take a piece of a plastic tube (“straw” for a cocktail or something similar) 7-10 cm long, impose several stop knots of the considered type on it at home (preferably from woolen threads), then you will no longer spend time for knitting stoppers.

2. KNOTS FOR BINDING LINES

In most cases, such knots are necessary in float, bottom and fly fishing.

Usually the main forests (or undergrowth - in fly fishing) and a leash are connected. These fishing lines, as a rule, are of different diameters, and even from different materials(wicker and monofilament, for example). Either the main line is connected from two pieces if it breaks or you just need to extend the line Or the so-called “shock leader” is attached to the main line (a thicker piece of line a little larger than twice the length of the rod, which at the time of casting the equipment accounts for the main load).

In the first case, the main requirement for the knot is that the strength of the fishing line in the knot does not suffer. In the second and third, it is also added that the connecting node must freely pass through the through-rings of the rod, without getting stuck in them.

2.1. TRIPLE FISHING KNOT (THREE - WATER KNOT)

Fishing lines retain about 90% of their carrying capacity in the knot. You can tie monofilament fishing lines with a difference in diameter of no more than 0.05 mm.

2.1.1. Fold the two lines to be tied together, aligning the ends. Clamp the fishing lines with your fingers at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ends.

2.1.2. Make a simple knot with two strings. Make sure that the ends of the lines remain at the same level.

2.1.3. Pass the ends of the lines twice into the simple knot obtained earlier.

2.1.4. Moisten the place where the knot is tightened with saliva and gently pull the ends of the folded lines from both sides at once. Make sure that both fishing lines are tightened at the same time, without sliding over each other (usually the thinner one is tightened faster). If you did everything right, before the final formation of the knot, the tightened fishing lines will fold into a figure-eight figure.

2.1.5. Gently pull on the different strings now to complete the knot. There should be no visible voids in the resulting node. Trim the excess, leaving 1-1.5 mm at the ends.

2.2. DOUBLE LOOP JUNCTION

Much stronger than any nodal line connection. The best alternative to using a swivel, especially if the swivel is made of thinner wire than any of the lines.

2.2.1. Take the main line, step back 30-35 cm from the edge and fold this piece in half. Form a simple knot from a double scaffold.

2.2.2. Pass the double forest into the knot two more times. You have a blank for the formation of the node type "Surgeons Loop" (English: surgical loop).

2.2.3. After wetting the knot with saliva, carefully pull it off. If you did everything right, before the final formation of the loop, the double scaffold will fold into a figure-eight.

2.2.4. Make a “surgical” loop on the leash too, throw it over the loop on the main line and pass (as shown in the diagram) the other end of the leash through the loop on the main line.

2.2.5. Pull the main line and leash in opposite directions. The connection is ready.

2.2.6. Trim the ends, leaving 1-1.5 mm. The beauty of such a connection is that it can be very easily disassembled and quickly replaced one leash with another.

2.3. KNOT "BLOOD TIES" (BLOOD KNOT, ATTACH KNOT, FISHERMAN'S BEND KNOT)

Strong knot for lines with a diameter difference of no more than 1 / 3. Retains more than 90% of the load capacity of the lines.

2.3.1. Fold two fishing lines overlap, pinch with your fingers, leaving a working end of 15-20 cm at each.

2.3.2. Wrap the working end of one line around the other 5-7 times.

2.3.3. Return the working end back to the place where the winding began and pass it between two fishing lines. Pinch this place with your fingers.

2.3.4. Make a similar winding with the working end of the other fishing line, return it back and insert it into the gap formed between the two fishing lines towards the other fishing line. Gently pull off one knot first, then the second, moistening them first with saliva.

2.3.5. Gently pull the formed knot by the fishing lines in opposite directions.

2.3.6. If everything is done correctly, the ends of the lines after the knot tie should look in opposite directions. Leaving 1-1.5 mm at the ends, cut off the excess lines.

2.4. DOUBLE GRINNER KNOT, DOUBLE UNI-KNOT

A reliable knot that retains the carrying capacity of the lines more than the "Blood knot". However, the difference in the diameters of the connected lines should be no more than 1/5.

Suitable for both connecting monofilament lines and braided lines. Can also be used to attach a fluorocarbon leash to the main line.

2.4.1. Fold two fishing lines overlap in the same way as in paragraph 2.3.1.

2.4.2. Return the working end of one fishing line back to the place where the lines were clamped and begin wrapping the formed loop and the other fishing line with this end.

2.4.3. After making at least 5 turns, bring the working end through the loop and, moistening the knot with saliva, gently pull it off.

2.4.4. Do the same operation with the working end of the other fishing line.

2.4.5. After forming two knots, pull the fishing lines in opposite directions. The nodes will "come together" and the connection is ready.

2.4.6. After tying the knot, cut the ends of the lines, leaving 1.5-2 mm.

2.5. KNOT PETER MINENKO

The knot, used by the famous angler Petr Minenko, is designed to connect the main line and the “shock leader” in float rigs. The connection of the fishing lines is reliable, the knot is compact and freely passes through the through-rings of the rod.

2.5.1. Fold two fishing lines, aligning the ends, and make a simple knot out of them. This knot is auxiliary, we leave 2.5-3 cm at the ends.

2.5.2. From a thicker fishing line, fold a loop 10 cm long and pinch the base of the loop and the auxiliary knot with your fingers.

2.5.3. Form a loop from a thinner fishing line, pass it into the previously formed one and start winding the last one.

2.5.4. Make four or five turns with the top of the loop of thin fishing line around the thick one.

2.5.5. Pass the auxiliary knot into the resulting gap between the top of the loop of thin fishing line and thick one and pull the connection a little.

2.5.6. Moisten the site of the knot with saliva and gently pull alternately on each end of the fishing line until a knot is formed. Trim the ends, leaving about 1 mm.

2.6. SHOK LEADER KNOT

The knot "came" from fly fishing. Has a high load capacity. Quite compact, freely passes through the through-rings of the rod. It is a combination of a simple knot (monofilament fishing line) and a knot of the "Clinch" type ("braid").

2.6.1. Tie a simple edge knot with monofilament fishing line.

2.6.2. Pass the “braid” through it, tighten the monofilament knot to the end, leaving the working end of the “braid” about 15 cm long.

2.6.3. Make 6-8 turns of the "braid" around the monofilament line and return the working end back, passing it through the gap formed near the end knot.

2.6.4. Pass the “braid” through the loop formed, moisten the knot with saliva and gently pull the knot by the working end of the “braid”. The result was a knot of the "Clinch" type.

2.6.5. Grasp the monofilament and braided lines and gently pull in opposite directions. The nodes will converge. Cut off the excess ends, leaving 1.5-2 mm.

2.7. KNOT TYPE "ALBRIGHT" (ALBRIGHT KNOT)

Designed for connecting lines with a diameter difference of more than 1/3, as well as for tying the undergrowth to fly line. The knot is rather complicated in execution, but very reliable. The knot is very compact, easily passes through the guides of the rod.

2.7.1. Form a loop about 10 cm long from a thick fishing line, pinch it at the base with your fingers. Pass the thin line through the loop.

2.7.2. Wrap the thin line around the thick loop and form the thin line into a loop. Leave the working end of a thin fishing line 12-15 cm long.

2.7.3. Pinch the top of the loop from a thin fishing line and the base of the loop from a thick one with your fingers. With the working end of a thin fishing line, wrap a loop of thick fishing line and the upper branch of the loop of thin.

2.7.4. Make 10-12 turns and pass the working end into a loop of thick fishing line. Make the last one smaller by pulling on the free end. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently pull it up by the working end of a thin fishing line.

2.7.5. Grasp thin and thick fishing lines and gently pull them in opposite directions, forming a knot gradually and adjusting the turns.

2.7.6. Trim excess ends, leaving 1.5-2 mm.

3. KNOTS FOR TIING THE HOOK WITH A SPATULA

In most cases, spatula hooks are used in small numbers, so the knot on them is not so easy to make. When knitting knots, the turns of the fishing line on the shank of the hook should lie in even and dense rows, without jumping one turn onto another. It is important to remember that after tightening the knot, the fishing line should be with inside prying, thus, the shank of the hook will be, as it were, a continuation of the fishing line. It is recommended that after successfully tying the knot, apply a little waterproof glue (such as Moment) to the last one.

3.1. LOOP KNOT WITH OUTER PASSING OF THE END OF THE LINE (EYELET KNOT)

3.1.1. Step back from the edge of the fishing line 12-15 cm, pinch the fishing line and the head of the hook in this place with your fingers. Form a loop at the beginning of the shank of the hook.

3.1.2. Wrap the working end of the forearm of the hook and fishing line 8-10 times, not pulling the latter too much, but trying to prevent the turns from jumping one on top of the other.

3.1.3. Pass the working end into the loop at the beginning of the fore-end and pull the line slightly.

3.1.4. Moisten the knot with saliva and, holding the working end with one hand, pull the line by the other end.

3.1.5. Carefully adjust the knot by turning the line so that it comes out of the knot above the spatula. Tighten again and cut off the excess line, leaving 1.5-2 mm at the end.

3.2. KNOT TYPE "TROMBONE LOOP" (TROMBONE LOOP, SPADE END KNOT, SLIDING BAIT LOOP)

Suitable for both monofilament and braided lines.

3.2.1. Fold a loop from the fishing line, leaving the working end 10-12 cm long. Attach the hook to the top of the loop so that the shank is parallel to the main line. Pinch with your fingers.

3.2.2. Very tightly wrap the end of the forend and the main line with the working end of the fishing line a couple of times.

3.2.3. Carefully intercept the winding at the head of the hook with your fingers and continue wrapping the forearm and line with the working end.

3.2.4. After making 8-10 turns, thread the working end into the loop. Slightly tighten the working end.

3.2.5. After moistening the knot with saliva, gently pull the ends of the fishing line in opposite directions.

3.2.6. The line above the spatula should pass as in paragraph 3.1.5. Cut off the excess line, leaving 1-1.5 mm.

3.3. KNOT WITH OUTER WINDING LOOP (TROMBONE LOOP)

The great advantage of this knot (as well as the previous one) is that there are no overlapping fibers in it, and the more the line is pulled, the tighter the knot is tightened.

3.3.1. Fold a loop from the fishing line (as shown in the diagram) 8-10 cm long, leave a free tip of 1-1.5 cm.

3.3.2. Clutching the base of the loop and the head of the hook with your fingers, with one side of the loop, begin winding the forearm, the main line and the other side of the loop, passing the free tip through the loop with each turn.

3.3.3. Try not to overlap the coils.

3.3.4. Make 8-10 turns and, pulling the main line, make a smaller loop.

3.3.5. After moistening the knot with saliva, pull the fishing line by the ends in opposite directions.

3.3.6. Having unfolded the line correctly (see paragraph 3.1.5), cut off the excess line, leaving 1-1.5 mm.

4. KNOTS FOR TYING THE HOOK WITH A RING AND SWIMMING

The only restriction for this category of knots is that it is not recommended to tie the fishing line to hooks, rings and swivels made of thinner wire than the fishing line, because the sharp bend of the fishing line in the knot significantly reduces its strength.

4.1. KNOT TYPE "PALOMAR" (PALOMAR KNOT, SWIVEL KNOT)

In my opinion, the easiest knot to tie. It pinches the line to a minimum. It is used when the main line needs to be connected with a swivel or with a jig head, as well as a leash with a hook with a ring. The only drawback is that the knot is not for small rings. Also recommended for braids.

4.1.1. Fold the line in half, forming a loop 10-12 cm long. Pull the double line through the swivel ring.

4.1.2. Tie the double line with a simple knot, the swivel is inside the knot.

4.1.3. Pass the swivel through the top of the original loop.

4.1.4. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently tighten it. If any part of the loop comes out of the knot, tighten it.

4.1.5. Having finally tightened the knot, cut off the excess line, leaving 2-2.5 mm.

4.2. KNIT TYPE "CLINCH", IMPROVED (IMPROVED CLINCH KNOT)

One of the most commonly used knots for monofilament lines. The maximum recommended line diameter for this knot is 0.4mm. Fishing lines retain up to 98% of their carrying capacity in the knot. Not recommended for braids and fluorocarbon lines.

4.2.1. Pass the line through the ring of the hook. Leave the working end 8-9 cm long.

4.2.2. At least 5 times wrap the tensioned main line with the working end.

4.2.3. Bring the working end back and thread it through the loop formed at the ringlet.

4.2.4. Now thread the working end into the formed upper loop and slightly pull it up to form a knot, holding the main line.

4.2.5. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently pull the main line, advancing the knot to the ring of the hook. Cut off the excess, leaving 1-1.5 mm of fishing line.

4.3 HOMER KNOT

The knot is recommended not only for monofilament, but also for fluorocarbon and braided lines. Super strong knot. The smaller the diameter of the fishing line (this, by the way, is true for other nodes), the greater the number of turns should be.

4.3.1. Pass the fishing line through the ring of the hook, leave the working end 12-15 cm long. Form a simple loop by wrapping the main line with the working end.

4.3.2. Make a simple knot with the working end. Tighten the knot slightly, but do not close it.

4.3.3. Wrap the main line with the working end at least 5 times.

4.3.4. Bring the working end back and thread it into a simple knot. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently pull it up by the working end and the main line.

4.3.5. Gently pull the formed knot by the main line to the hook ring. Cut off the excess line, leaving 1-1.5 mm.

4.4 KNOT TYPE "GRINNER" (GRENNER KNOT, UINI-KNOT)

This node has a very high load capacity. With this knot, the fishing lines are tied not only to the hook, but also to the “carp” sinker (weight up to 200 g). Recommended for monofilament, fluorocarbon and braided lines.

4.4.1. Pass the fishing line through the ring of the hook, leaving the working end 15-17 cm long.

4.4.2. Fold the working end in half and pinch the top of the formed loop and the main line with your fingers.

4.4.3. With the working end, start winding the loop from both lower lines.

4.4.4. Make no more than 5 turns and pull the knot by the working end.

4.4.5. After wetting the knot with saliva, finally tighten it by the working end.

4.4.6. Gently pull the knot to the ring of the hook and cut off the excess line, leaving 1-1.5 mm.

4.5 ATTACHED CLINCH KNOT

4.5.1. Fold the end of the fishing line in half so that you get a loop 12-14 cm long. Pass the double line through the hook ring.

4.5.2. After pulling, you should have a working end 8-9 cm long.

4.5.3. With the working end, start winding the loop and the main line.

4.5.4. After making at least 5 turns, pass the working end through the loop formed by the double line and pull it up slightly.

4.5.5. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently tighten the knot behind the main line.

4.5.6. Cut off the excess line, leaving 1.5-2 mm at the end.

5. WOBLER KNOTS

In order for the wobbler to "play" as intended by the manufacturers, it is necessary to minimally restrict the freedom of its movement in the water column, i.e. abandon hard steel and Kevlar leashes, as well as clockwork rings, clasps and swivels made of thick wire. Wobbler knots are also used in fly fishing.

5.1. KNOT "DENSE LOOP" (HOMER-RHODE LOOP KNOT)

It is used for tying not only wobblers, but also fly fishing flies, streamers, etc.

5.1.1. At a distance of 12-13 cm from the end of the fishing line, form a simple knot without tightening it. Thread the free end of the fishing line into the ring of the wobbler.

5.1.2. Leave the working end 8-9 cm long. Pass it through the middle of a simple knot on the main line.

5.1.3. Tighten the knot tightly behind the main line. Gently pull the knot over the working end to form a loop 1-1.5 cm long.

5.1.4. After wrapping the main forest with the working end, make another simple knot with it.

5.1.5. Tighten the second knot with the main line, gently pulling it up to the first knot. Cut off the excess line, leaving 2-2.5 mm at the end.

5.2. KNOT WITH A BLANK LOOP (COMPOUND KNOT)

5.2.1. At a distance of 13-15 cm from the end of the fishing line, form a simple knot without tightening it. Thread the free end of the fishing line into the ring of the wobbler.

5.2.2. Leave the working end 10-12 cm long. Pass it through the middle of a simple knot and bring it out over the main forest.

5.2.3. Pass the working end through the knot, as shown in the diagram. Gently tighten the working end, without tightening the knot, but choosing a loop at the ring of the wobbler. Leave the last one 1-1.5 cm long.

5.2.4. Pass the working end into the lower gap between the branches of the fishing line and slightly pull the knot behind the main line and the working end.

5.2.5. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently tighten it behind the main line. Cut off the excess line, leaving 1-1.5 mm at the end.

When using this knot, it should be remembered that it is not suitable for very thin lines. There are high compressive and shear forces inside the knot, so the knot is best used for braided, thin Kevlar and fluorocarbon leaders.

5.3. KNOT TYPE "RAPALA"

The advantage of this proprietary node is that the wobbler is always in correct position and his game is not constrained by the elasticity of the fishing line.

5.3.1. Form a simple knot 15-17 cm from the end of the fishing line. Pass its free end through the ring of the wobbler.

5.3.2. Leave the working end at 13-15 cm, pass it through the middle of the straight knot.

5.3.3. Wrap the main line with the working end at least 4-5 times. For the working end, pull the loop at the ring of the wobbler, leaving it 1-1.5 cm long.

5.3.4. Bring the working end back and once again pass it through the middle of a simple knot.

5.3.5. Moisten the knot with saliva and gently tighten it alternately behind the main line and behind the working end.

5.3.6. Cut off the excess line, leaving 2-2.5 mm at the end.

6. AUXILIARY ASSEMBLY

6.1. A KNOT FORMING A TEMPORARY LOOP FOR A SIDE LEAD ON THE MAIN WOOD

6.1.1. Wrap the main line around the index finger of your left hand twice, without pulling it too hard.

6.1.2. Carefully remove the turns of the line from your finger, pinch them at the base with your fingers. Form a simple loop 4-6 cm long from the main line above the resulting turns.

6.1.3. Pass the formed loop through the turns.

6.1.4. Holding the main line above and below the knot, pull it past the top of the loop.

6.1.5. Thread the leader with a stopper (say, a figure-eight knot) into the resulting loop and tighten it behind the main line. If the leash needs to be removed, carefully cut off the limiter on it, remove the leash and pull the main line in opposite directions - the knot will untie.

6.2. NODE. FORMING A STATIONARY LOOP FOR A SIDE LEAD (DROPPER LOOP) ON THE MAIN LINE

6.2.1. Fold a simple cross loop 8-10 cm long from the main forest.

6.2.2. Pinch the base of the loop with the fingers of your left hand and throw the top of the loop over your hand.

6.2.3. Intercept the base of the loop right hand, wind the top of the loop with the fingers of the right with your left hand.

6.2.4. Once again, intercept the base of the loop with your left hand and repeat the operation of paragraph 6.2.2.

6.2.5. After doing 4-5 such manipulations, slightly pull the loop over the top.

6.2.6. In the resulting gap between the turns of the scaffold, enter the top of the free loop and slightly tighten it.

6.2.7. After moistening the knot with saliva, gently tighten the knot at opposite ends of the main line.

6.2.8. The finally formed loop can no longer be removed from the main scaffold. It is best to attach the leash to it in a loop-to-loop manner.

When preparing tourists may not be studied.

Excellent, comfortable, durable knot. In all the reference literature, the methods of knitting it are shown to be very complex. I offer my knitting method.

For a long time I thought that this knot was invented by me. I really invented it, but later it turned out that the triple braided knot was invented a long time ago and has long been used in practice. I consoled myself with the thought that my way of knitting this knot is the simplest, which means it is the best.

So, Shamov's method:

double conductor

(hare ears, double figure eight)

The name "double eight" is rarely used and, in my opinion, is wrong. But it is given here so that young tourists, having heard it, do not get stuck, but know what it is about.

Extremely comfortable and reliable knot. Unlike the conductor node, it has a double loop, which increases safety, because. strength is greatly increased. It is used for tying self-insurance loops, for attaching a “deaf loop” to a climbing carabiner when working with grappling knots, for hanging at the same time for two independent supports (most often - two bolt hooks). The knot allows adjustment and adjustment of the size of the loops "on reaching a uniform load on both supports."

All the knots of the “main knots” class discussed above are knitted at the end of the rope and form non-tightening loops.

Now consider several knots of the same class, but these knots form non-tightening loops anywhere in the rope. Conventionally, we can say that the knots fit in the middle of the rope. Such nodes are sometimes called middle nodes. This is not true, if only because the middle of the 40 meter rope will be at around 20 meters, and the knot is knitted as needed anywhere.

Austrian conductor

(butterfly, bee, Pushkar loop, middle conductor, driving loop, unit of uniform multilateral tension)

"Middle Conductor" is a misnomer. As will be shown below, there are a significant number of such knots that form non-tightening loops in the “middle” of the rope, and all of them can be classified as “middle” conductors according to their functionality. The name was invented by Moscow tourists. I suggest that tourists do not use this name and keep the international name for this node (return to the node its “maiden name”) - the Austrian conductor.

I offer two knitting methods:

a) generally accepted

b) Shamov's method -

The knitting method was invented by me in 1977 and offered to tourists in Altai and Kazakhstan. The method was instantly approved and widely adopted. Practical exercises ^ showed that this method of knitting a knot is easy to remember, eliminates errors when working in complete darkness, allows you to hold on to the railing rope with one hand, which is important for safety. Knot knitting order:

The rope is taken in the left hand under the thumb.

The running end (the lower, loose part of the rope) is wrapped around the palm for the first time along the edge of the fingers (the hose must be made with a margin and not tight).

The running end is wrapped around the palm a second time and fits between the “zero” and the first hoses (turns) in the middle.

Pull the rightmost “coil” of the hose towards you at the beginning, and then to the left.

We put the resulting loop between the palm and the hoses of the rope to the right.

This knot (in a hurry) can not be tightened. An alpcarabiner is snapped into the working loop and you can immediately apply a load. The knot will tighten itself.

The Austrian conductor knot and similar knots are used as intermediate support or hanging points, as well as supports for blocks. With the help of these knots, it is easy to tie up (unload) a broken or frayed section of the rope. The Austrian conductor is very reliable and allows the application of loads in all directions. Easily untied after unloading.

In any gear, it is required to connect the fishing line with a hook, lure, swivel and other types of lines. The strength of the fishing line depends on the correctly selected and executed knot. In addition to choosing the optimal connection method, there are several other points that the angler should pay close attention to. They will allow you to maximize the parameters of the fishing line after tightening the knot.

• Most anglers know that wetting the line is essential when tying a knot. Then the friction of the fishing line will be reduced, and the strength of the fishing line and the knot will be maximum.
• When choosing a method for tying two types of fishing lines, it is important to pay attention to the diameter. If two pieces of fishing line have a comparable diameter, then one knot will do, and when tying ends of different thicknesses, you will need another option.
• In no case should you remove excess pieces of fishing line in the flame of a lighter or match. Strong heating will lead to a change in the structure of the fibers, which will negatively affect the reliability indicator.

Triple knot ("Tree-water knot")

A triple knot is best used to connect monofilament lines of the same diameter. With a difference in thickness of no more than 0.05 mm, the strength of the fishing line is maintained by 90%. To get a good connection, you need to consistently perform the following steps.

Two connected fishing lines are folded, and the ends are aligned.

1. With the fingers of one hand, the fishing lines are clamped about 15-20 cm from the end.
2. Now you need to make a regular knot from the lines, while the ends of the lines should remain at the same level.
3. The ends of the lines are passed twice into the usual knot made earlier.
4. Having moistened the fishing lines with saliva or water, you need to gently pull the ends of the fishing lines on both sides. At this stage, the angler must watch for the simultaneous tightening of both lines.
5. For the final formation of the connection, gently pull the different fishing lines in opposite directions. Excess lines remain cut, leaving 1.5 mm at the ends.

Note: if everything is done correctly, then before tightening the knot resembles a figure eight. After the final tying, no visible voids should form in the knot.

Connecting the lines "loop to loop"

Much stronger than any knot is the connection of the main fishing line with the leash in the “loop to loop” way. This option is even more preferable than using a swivel. This is especially true if the eye of the swivel is made of thinner wire than each line. The advantage of this connection will be the quick replacement of the finished leash. The connection is quite simple.

1. First you need to make a loop on the main fishing line. To do this, the end of the fishing line 60-70 cm long is doubled.
2. A simple knot is formed from a double fishing line.
3. The loop must be passed 2 more times into the knot. As a result, the preparation of the “surgical loop” knot will be obtained.
4. Having moistened the fishing line, you can tighten the knot. Excess line is cut off.
5. A similar knot must be made on a leash.
6. Now the loop of the leash is thrown over the loop of the main line, and the other end of the leash (for example, with a hook) is pulled into the loop of the main line.
7. It remains to pull the main line and leash in different sides to make a secure connection.

Advice: so that when tightening the “loop into the loop”, the loop does not overlap over the end of the fishing line sticking out of the knot, you need to leave segments no longer than 1-1.5 mm.

Blood or blood knot ("Blood knot")

If one of the lines is no more than 3 times thicker than the other, then you can use the “bloody knot”. It retains the strength of the fishing line up to 90%.

1. Both fishing lines need to be folded in parallel (ends in different directions) and pinch the middle part with your fingers. The ends should be 15-20 cm long.
2. First, one end of the fishing line is wrapped around the other fishing line 5-7 times.
3. The same end returns to the beginning of the winding and is passed between the fishing lines. This place should be pinched with your fingers.
4. The end of the other fishing line makes a similar winding on the other side. The working end comes back and stretches between the fishing lines next to the first end, only in the opposite direction.
5. First, one side must be moistened with saliva and the knot tightened, and then the same is done on the other side.
6. Holding hands on both fishing lines, you should pull them in opposite directions so that the knots fit snugly against each other. The excess line is cut off.

Note: if all operations are performed correctly, then after tightening the knots, the ends of the lines will look in opposite directions.

Double sliding knot ("Double Grinner knot")

The reliability of the double sliding knot exceeds the "bloody" counterpart. The difference in the diameters of the lines can reach five times the size. In this way, you can connect both monofilament fishing lines and braided cords. The knot is also suitable for attaching a fluorocarbon leader to the main line.

1. First, the fishing lines overlap, the ends should look in different directions.
2. Fingers adhere to folded fishing lines approximately in the middle. One end of the line returns to the fingers holding the double line. In the resulting loop, you need to skip the working end 5-7 times, wrapping both fishing lines.
3. Now you need to moisten the fishing line and tighten the knot by pulling on the working end.
4. The same operation is done on the other side.
5. When both knots are formed, you need to pull the fishing lines in different directions. The nodes will converge and the connection will be ready.
6. It remains to remove the excess ends of the woods.

Anglers borrowed this knot from fly fishing. It is highly durable and reliable. Due to its compactness, the knot is able to freely pass through the fishing rod throughput rings. The connection is a combination of a clinch knot (cord) and a simple knot (monoline).

1. The first step is to make a regular edge knot from a monofilament.
2. A braided cord is passed through it, after which a monofilament knot is tightened to the end. Do not forget to wet the fishing line before tightening the knot. The working end of the braid is left 15-20 cm long.
3. Now the cord is made 6-8 turns around the monofilament line, and the working end of the braid is passed between the two lines near the end knot.
4. The end of the braided cord is passed through the loop that it formed.
5. The fishing line is moistened, and the knot is tightened by pulling on the braid.
6. It remains to pull the knots to each other by pulling the fishing line and cord in opposite directions. The excess is cut off, leaving 1-1.5 mm.

Advice: when forming a knot from a braid, it is necessary to ensure that the turns are evenly located relative to each other.

The above examples of knots for connecting fishing lines allow you to choose the right option for any occasion. Each angler will adopt the connection he likes. Then, while fishing, an unpleasant breakage of tackle will not confuse a fishing lover.

Currently, there are many different ways to connect various fishing lines, cords and monofilaments. also used for attaching leashes and hooks. The stronger the connection, the less chance of losing both tackle and catch. In reality, there are a lot of nodes, but there is no need to know them all. It will be enough to learn the technique of knitting 5-6 options. One of the main ways to attach a fishing line or braid to a hook is Palomar. This knot has a number of advantages, which make it one of the most famous and reliable methods of fastening.

What is the difference between fishing line and braided line?

Often the same type of fastening is attributed either to a fishing line or to a braided line, and there will definitely be someone who will insert his weighty word regarding monofilament. Does it really matter which knot to use on which tackle? As practice shows, there are no significant differences. For example, Palomar perfectly connects both fishing line and monofilament. The knot does not slip and connects remarkably almost all types of gear, the main thing is that their diameter is not large.

But still, cords and braids from different manufacturers differ from each other in the type of fibers, weaving and the composition of the outer coating. That is why many serious gear manufacturers recommend one or another knot for their products. Most often, brochures and operating instructions indicate the Uni and Palomar nodes.

Ultra-reliable fastening unit

Among the great variety of fishing knots and their modifications, there are several that are considered the most reliable and strong. Some of them connect fishing lines and braids, while others are used in equipment and attach hooks and leashes. This is exactly what the Palomar node is. In addition, numerous variations testify to its popularity.

Among experienced fishermen, there is an opinion that this type of fastening is good only for braids. But this reasoning is fundamentally wrong. Palomar is a universal knot. In addition, it was noticed that, due to the roughness of the braid, it is not tightened tightly enough. As a result, it can weaken or even untie at the most inopportune moment. Therefore, if necessary, to tie an artificial bait, such as a wobbler, to the main braid on a spinning rod, it is better to use another knot. And when knitting, you can moisten the braid well and tighten the knot tighter.

In practice, it has been verified that Palomar knits easily, in comparison with other knots, while maintaining the strength of the fishing line. Even manufacturers fishing tackle recommend it for connecting parts of equipment. This knot is difficult to do wrong.

Application

Palomar is a well-known and popular knot. In addition, it is simple, and its knitting is easy to remember. It is intended for connecting fishing line with flies, spinners or hooks. Also through the swivel they can attach leashes. In general, the node is simple and verified. It has long been mastered by amateurs as spinning fishing, and bottom fishing rods. "Palomar" is used in any gear for various kinds rigging. For example, in spinning, with its help, spinners and wobblers, as well as soft baits, are attached to the braid, in float, match and bottom fishing rods, this knot also leads, and it can also be used to connect a sinker to the fishing line by the eye.

Tying the Palomar Knot

As mentioned above, the Palomar fishing knot is relatively easy to knit. You don’t have to practice for a long time to remember all the actions. To connect the snap-in parts with this node, you must perform the following steps:

1. Fold the fishing line in half so that you end up with a loop.

2. We stretch this loop into the eye of the hook or bait. If it is small, then you can proceed as follows: first we stretch one end of the fishing line into it, then, having formed a loop, we again stretch it through the hole in the ear, but only in the opposite direction.

3. The folded loop is tied around the hook so that it is inside it.

4. We pull out the loop just enough so that a hook or artificial bait can be inserted through it.

5. Wet the resulting knot and tighten it tightly. You need to pull on both ends of the line. The remaining free end is cut off so that at least 3 mm remains.

Alternative knot tying

The Palomar knot is often used for dropshots. Sometimes it becomes necessary to choose an alternative knitting method for this equipment. In general, all points are performed as in the classic version, with the exception that the last loop is knitted opposite the shank of the hook. In this case, the hook is fixed - it is no longer free in its movement. Such a small trick gives a better fixation.

For the same reason, feeder lovers knit this knot according to the classic pattern described above. They need a movable "working" hook. In general, everything is tested in practice. It is recommended to study and remember both knitting options. Then it will be possible to understand in practice which option in which case is preferable and more reliable.

Benefits of the Palomar node

So, the Palomar node is described in detail, but what are its advantages over dozens of other fastening methods? Firstly, this is a universal type of connection, suitable not only for fishing line, but also for cord, braid and monofilament. This node is one of the three most reliable. With him, even on a thin line, you can fish enough big fish. This method of connecting lures and hooks to the main line minimally reduces the strength of the equipment, by about 5%, which is undoubtedly an excellent indicator. It is also captivating that it is knitted very simply, a professional will perform this knot even in the dark.

In the process of tying, you can make the hook (or bait) fixed or loose. And this is a definite plus, because the equipment is different.

Flaws

The Palomar knot, used for monofilament and braided line, also has disadvantages. When knitting it, the loop will need to pass through the hook or bait, so it must be large in size. In this case, it turns out that the consumption of fishing line increases. But if this tackle is inexpensive, then you can’t say the same about braided line or cord. The consumption will be noticeable after 20 dressings. This loss is palpable.

In order to save at least a little, you need to knit a knot a little differently than in the classic version. So, after the loop is threaded into the eye and a simple knot is made, it is not tightened much. Next, the loop is pulled so that the free end remains only 2 mm. Further, this loop, as expected, is thrown onto the hook and pulled into a knot. At the same time, the free end remains short, it is not necessary to cut it. Although this is not much, it still saves the expense of expensive gear.

Triple fishing knot "Palomar"

Triple knot "Palomar" is a variation of the classic. It also knits easily and quickly. But keep in mind that this option is absolutely not suitable for attaching hooks. This is because the line has to pass through the ring not once, but six times. At the same time, the fact that the turns become dense is very upsetting: they press on each other, weakening the strength of the connection. For the same banal reason, this knot is not applied to a monofilament.

But it is the triple "Palomar" - the best option for braid. He keeps her strong. It knits easily. As in the classic version, fold the braid in half, forming a loop. We pass it through the ring of the bait, such as spinners or wobblers. Now the main point: we stretch the loop through the ring two more times. Now, with the end of the braid folded in half, we tie a regular knot above the spinner. Without tightening it, we pass the loop through the spinner, draw it to the turns on the ring and tighten it. To make the knot strong, moisten it with water and pull it onto the main part of the braid again. Cut off the excess free end, leaving 3 mm. This is how the Palomar triple knot is obtained.

Modification

In order to save the braid, a simpler fastening was invented and tested than a double knot. "Palomar" has several modifications. This option differs in that the loop is passed not through the bait or hook, but through the free end of the fishing line. Of course, classic knitting is somewhat stronger, but this modification is more economical. In this way, it is not recommended to connect intermediate baits, such as dropshot or wabik. But for other cases, it will fit perfectly. This modification is very simple, the knot is quite strong. The loop does not need to be made large, respectively, braids or fishing lines take less. It's best to try both knots and compare which one is better.