Crossbow for children do-it-yourself drawings. Homemade crossbow
This is a story about making a crossbow with your own hands at home. The first desire to make a crossbow himself arose unexpectedly, while watching a movie on TV. I still don’t understand what attracted me so much to this weapon. Some switch just turned in my brain, and in addition to a pure, devoted love for archery, there was also a passionate attraction to crossbows.
By the way, I remember the name of that film: "Escape is Impossible" - a fantastic action film recorded on videotape, in the "inimitable" translation of Leonid Volodarsky. It was 1996 outside.
The first pleasant impression from the discovery of such a fascinating topic as the crossbow and everything connected with it, without any intermediate stage, grew in me into irrepressible fanaticism. I wanted to have a crossbow to the point of toothache. The same as for example Barnett Coomando from films with Chuck Norris.
Those who are older remember that in the 90s the arms market of our country was still in its infancy, and there was no question of such an abundance of bows and crossbows as it is today.
In the weapons or hunting shops of the early 90s, the crossbow, if it appeared, was only in single copies. And even then, mainly from the category of imported cheap consumer goods, which were bought for a penny. But they were sold, often, just for big money by the standards of that time. And the only logical decision then was to take it and start making yourself a crossbow with your own hands.
Here it is worth clarifying: I was incredibly lucky that at that time I worked as a toolmaker at a local metallurgical plant. That is, from the very beginning I had access to both materials and equipment.
But this is only half the story. The most important question was - where to get information? How do you know how a crossbow is constructed? What parts does it have inside? Where to get crossbow drawings and how to assemble it later. The Internet didn't exist yet.
As a result, I managed to find out something through questioning, thought of something myself, somewhere I managed to read or see a picture on a topic that interests me. At times, information had to be collected literally from newspaper clippings.
Finally, the happy moment arrived, and I set about creating a prototype.
How to make a crossbow.
Visually, I was guided by the Snipe crossbow. There was then for some time such a company for the production of crossbows, in St. Petersburg, in my opinion. I cut out a photo of their crossbow from a 1992 gun magazine. I could not find information about them today, but the interloper AK-47, which appeared much later, is suspiciously similar to that crossbow.
The guide of my crossbow consisted of two parts, connected to each other by welding (everything is serious, real hardcore). One of the parts was a trigger box, a bar with a milled dovetail was screwed on top. I planned to immediately install optics and did not count on open sights. The bar covered the details of the mechanism, and a springy plate was attached to it, cut from a piece of an old ruler, which presses the arrow to the groove on the guide.
This is almost exactly what my first homemade crossbow looked like. The only thing was that he did not have a lever cocking. And the butt did not have such graceful forms, Bottom part was straight. And it looks very similar.
I planned to make the shoulders separate and removable - before that, I had seen enough of sporting crossbows in one weapons magazine, which was brought by a comrade in the shop, having found out about my concern.
The block for them was milled for me on the machine, the idea was to make it so that it would be attached to the guide with a screw, similar to how the blocks are assembled today with the shoulders of the Excalibur crossbows. But I screwed up with drilling in my youth, and the block had to be welded. Only the shoulders themselves are removable.
How I fenced them - there is no other word to pick up, generally a separate story.
Question one: what to make shoulders? At that moment, the answer suggested itself. And I went to where scrap metal was cut at our plant, to look for a spring. And what do you want to do - then, in principle, I could not pick up any other material for flexible elements.
Of course, I found a spring and the work began to boil.
Making a crossbow with your own hands
Now I understand that I violated then all conceivable and unthinkable technical processes and principles. At that moment, I didn’t care, I was young and full of creative energy.
I found a spring from a tractor, cut off a piece about 400 mm long from it with a cutter. Further: it was necessary to get two pieces narrower from one piece with a width of about 50-55mm.
I didn’t think of anything better than to go to the guillotine shears for cutting metal and split the plate in half on them. One half turned out to be flat, the other half was bent with a screw. At that time, I didn’t even think about some microcracks obtained during rough felling, and other similar dregs.
Returning to my site, I clamped the “screw” half of the spring in a vise and straightened it with the help of simple manipulations. In the same vise, I gave shape to the shoulders, bending the ends outward and slightly bending the plates. We got two identical shoulders with a bidirectional smooth bend. Well, almost identical.
I understood that the range of bending of the crossbow arms and the operation of the spring when driving a vehicle are noticeably different, and the halves of the arms would have to be re-heated. Fortunately, in our workshop there was a well-equipped thermal unit with a competent thermist. It was he who told me how to properly harden spring steel.
Looking ahead, I’ll say that soon, repeating the same technology, I had to make a second set of shoulders. This happened because two young boobies - me and my friend, decided to set the bowstring, resting one shoulder on the bench and pressing on the other from above. A lever was created that went to a break and the lower arm broke near the fastening screw.
The second set of shoulders made it faster, given previous experience. In terms of tension, the shoulders turned out to be somewhere around 60-65kg, with a bowstring stroke of 250mm. Shoulder width was 720mm.
The small working stroke is due to the peculiarity of the steel shoulders, which do not have the same flexibility as fiberglass ones with similar dimensions. And I didn’t want to make a wide arc for the sake of a slight increase in the course of the bowstring.
I glued a fiberglass plate with a semicircular groove on top of the steel guide, along which the bowstring was supposed to slide and the bolt move. I completely did not take into account then that from the fact that the bowstring lay on the guide with a large inflection. The friction turned out to be quite strong and soon the fiberglass began to wear out, bristling with fibers.
The bracket, on which they put the foot to cock the crossbow, turned out to be a little small and allowed only the toe of the boot to be inserted. But over time, I got used to it.
The steel parts of the crossbow were finished, the next step was the manufacture of the lodge. Of the wood suitable for this work, only oak, ash and birch were available to me. The choice fell on ash. It had a more pleasing texture than just white birch wood. Oak was just too heavy.
Folk art of homemade crossbowmen
The stock and fore-end were supposed to be separate. I made the forearm in the form of a strongly elongated trapezoid, the wider part was just under the palm, then it gradually narrowed in width and height. The edge of the forearm was beveled to give it a more elegant shape.
The butt turned out to look wide, with a straight bottom and a large hole in the place where thumb. It was convenient to hold the crossbow and aim. The forearm was fastened rather funny: a groove was milled in the tree, in which the guide was almost completely buried. Without further ado, I took it and glued the forearm and the plate with the groove onto the epoxy directly to the guide - for some reason I didn’t want there to be holes in the lower part of the forearm and the heads of the screws could be seen. It seemed to be unaesthetic.
After all the metal parts were assembled, the forearm was glued and the butt was installed - it was attached with two screws to the sight post from below, another question arose: "Where can I get suitable threads for the bowstring?" All advice to use kapron thread or, as some "especially gifted" said, fishing line, I dismissed immediately.
Rescued me, and quite by accident, my stepfather. He sorted out the old trash in the garage, and fished out from somewhere a large coil of thin rope, twisted from some unknown thread. The rope did not stretch from the effort, and after several experiments I wound a bowstring from it onto a crossbow.
There are also block home-made designs
I almost forgot to tell you how the trigger mechanism on that crossbow was arranged. It turned out, oddly enough, I have a strong, reliable in operation and consisting of only three parts and two springs.
The hook that fixes the bowstring in the cocked state, or popularly "nut", was made in the form of a washer 10 mm thick. The groove for the passage of the bowstring and the ledge into which the sear fixing the lock fits are made using files of various calibers. The “nut” was single-toothed and the bolt did not rest against the bowstring with its back.
Wanting to squeeze the trigger into the small dimensions of its box, I got carried away and slightly incorrectly distributed the length of the sear arms relative to the center of rotation of its axis. This played a cruel joke on me and the descent turned out to be a bit harsh.
During the shot, the "nut" turned, carried away by the bowstring. Then he hit the front wall of the box and merrily bounced back, where he stopped. Before cocking, it had to be manually lowered every time to allow the bowstring to pass through and turn the “nut” into the position where it was fixed with a sear. I could not then find a technical solution so that the hook would remain in the lowered position after the shot. He broke and broke his head, but he didn’t come up with anything worthwhile. Then he scored on this matter and left everything as it is.
The final touch in the creation of this crossbow was the installation of the sight. At that time, pneumatics and various useful things for it began to be actively imported into weapons stores. Like inexpensive optical sights, for example. Here's one I bought. I took a simple four-time sight with an eyepiece with a diameter of 25mm. Soon he was mounted on a crossbow.
The long-awaited moment of the first tests was getting closer, it remained to make bolts - and you can shoot.
Crossbow at home: preparation for shooting.
Thin-walled aluminum tubes were not available and I had to opt for wooden poles. For this business, I again turned to the place where they adjusted the wood for the butt to me - to the Model Shop. The same ash tree came up, whose dense, but not very heavy wood was the best fit.
The poles were turned for me on a wood lathe by a familiar comrade, the conical tips also came out from under the turner's cutter, only for metal.
I painted the bolts in a poisonous red color - which would be more difficult to lose, and even varnished on top. The tips, which were sharpened for me as many as ten pieces, turned out to be somewhat different shapes, but almost the same length - and that's a joy. I began to sort through them and as a result selected more or less the same. It turned out two groups of tips, six in one and four in the other.
I planted the tips on the shafts, securing them with Moment glue. Next in line was plumage, which it was not clear what to make of. The bookstore helped me out - there I saw, and later bought such thin multi-colored folders in which pieces of paper were put. Their covers were made of thick cellophane, which kept its shape well. So they went to plumage bolts to my crossbow.
I invented the manufacturing technology quite quickly: I cut out a pen template from cardboard, circled it with a pen, attached it to the covers of folders, and cut them with ordinary scissors in the required quantity.
As you probably know, branded feathers for archery and crossbow arrows have a seat in the form of edges looking to the sides, for which the feather is glued to the shaft of the arrow.
I got around this point in a rather interesting way. To begin with, I cut the feathers in a double set. Of the two thin halves, one thicker feather was glued together. Before gluing, I outlined the edges of the halves in the same way, and after that I simply folded them into different sides. It turned out the seats, almost the same as the factory rubber feathers. It remains only to glue them on the shafts of the bolts, which I actually did. There were two feathers on each bolt, because there was a semicircular groove on the top of the guide. Before that, to make a deep groove along which the lower feather passes, when there are three of them, I was not technically mature then.
So, tests! Everything happened in the forest, the target was a cardboard box stuffed with old rags and leaning against a thick pine. With the first shot, I drove the bolt into the tree just below the box. An attempt to pull it out ended with the shaft in my hand, and the tip was deeply seated in the trunk. I did not open the tree to extract it from there and left everything as it is.
The crossbow showed itself well, shooting sharply, steel shoulders straightened with good speed, sending bolts into the target. The lock worked properly, without breakdowns and interruptions, except that the descent was a bit harsh. I cocked the bowstring in gloves - they cut my fingers very “mentally”, but then I didn’t know anything about the tensioner cord and how it works.
As a result, after the first shooting, I had only three whole, not broken bolts.
That crossbow stayed with me for some more time, pleasing to the eye and warming the soul. But I moved on, working on the creation of the next, more advanced model, and it was given into the possession of my friend, who then shared my passion.
You will learn about what my next homemade products turned out to be from another article. In the meantime, let's give an example of an interesting video of a crossbow made at home by the same enthusiasts.
Video of shooting from a crossbow, made by hand.
Reading time ≈ 8 minutes
Today, making a crossbow with your own hands at home is not so difficult if you have the necessary drawings and the desire to work hard. Having modern materials and tools on hand, you can make both hunting and tournament and sports weapons.
What have we gained and what have we lost
Unfortunately, the centuries-old experience of our ancestors in the manufacture of crossbows and bows was largely lost. Many secrets forever remained in the abyss of time. But the current generation has finally realized the importance of crossbows and bows. The ability to make such weapons is returning again. All more people become his fans, joining the ranks of modern Robin Hoods. Now everyone can make a crossbow. Next, we uncovered all the features and detailed instructions creating a crossbow at home.
Features of creating a crossbow at home
To date, on the Internet you can find a lot of offers for the purchase of a finished crossbow. Many models for a variety of tastes, but it is worth noting that the price will be varied. Nevertheless, there are a lot of people who want to make throwing weapons with their own hands. Initially, a beginner may get lost in a series of actions, but now we will tell you how to make a crossbow with your own hands at home and provide drawings so that everything is as correct as possible. This is very important, because even small manufacturing errors can lead to unpleasant and unexpected surprises in the future, up to injury.
Before proceeding with the manufacturing process of the device, two important points should be noted.
- On the territory of our country, the crossbow is used exclusively in recreational or sports competitions and events. Using it as a hunting weapon is strictly prohibited! All types of throwing weapons that have a tension gain of 43 kg or more are combat types, as in the photo. In this case, you must have a special permit for use, which can be obtained from the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
Combat crossbow
- The crossbow is a special design that is subjected to incredible loads during use. That is why it is important to follow all the rules for its manufacture and avoid even the slightest mistakes and inaccuracies. Otherwise, you may be injured during operation. Do not forget about the multiple margin of safety, which absolutely all structural elements must have.
It is very easy to get hurt with an incorrectly made crossbow.
Making a bow
One of the main components of the entire structure and the engine of the crossbow was the bow. This is a plate with great elasticity, which has a complex shape. Such a plate has a bend. For greater functionality, one more bend is created at both ends.
Crossbow crafting should always begin with a bow. The rest of the components just need to be selected for it:
- box parameters;
- what will be the mechanism for descent;
- which tension option is better - block or recursive type.
The bow is the main link of the crossbow
How to choose material for manufacturing?
A crossbow can be made from several materials - wood, metal or composite. But which is better to choose is up to you:
- wood - it is better not to use as the main material. The wood that can be found in the yard is not of sufficient quality for a self-made crossbow. A branch from the forest will eventually lose its original appearance and properties due to drying out. Although this option is suitable for use for a short time. For example, play shooting games in the summer at the dacha. Despite this, ready-made models of Scorpion and Tarantula crossbows, which consist of wood, have become quite popular;
- composite - consists of fiberglass, which is interconnected by a binder of epoxy origin. This material at first glance seems simple and ideal. But only at first glance. The downside is the obligatory ideal adherence to all the nuances of the manufacturing instructions - the exact calculation of the proportion of the mixture, compliance with the drying conditions and the correct exposure. It is almost impossible to create and maintain such important conditions at home.
Crossbows are made from anything
Metal
He should be given a separate place among all materials. It has no alternatives and competitors. Owners of the old "Moskvich" with leaf springs definitely win.
It will take only 1 sheet - the 2nd in size. If the size is not terrible for you, then you can make a crossbow from the first sheet. The first one is even more profitable to use due to the presence of tubes at the edges. We can say that the bracket on which the bowstring or blocks are attached is ready for you.
To attach the bow to the bed you will need a block. It has the shape of the letter P and, as it were, hugs the box from the front. Its attachment can be of two types:
- weld by welding tightly to the spring leaf. But this option is unsafe and impractical. Each time the welds will be affected overload, which sooner or later will lead to the separation of the part;
- use on the block of the ball joint. This part from VAZ2108 or 09 is ideal. It is necessary to fix the bow on the pin itself. Lightness also lies in the fact that the sheet has a hole suitable for this.
Important: The connection with bolts, and ideally with rivets, is many times better than a conventional weld, since this part of the crossbow experiences huge vibration overloads. Homemade pulleys can also be found among the Moskvich spare parts. For this, the elements of the window regulators will fit.
Separately, you should pay attention to the manufacture of the bowstring. In order not to look for a suitable element for a long time, many use a metal cable (very thin). But this option is better to replace with a strong climbing cord, with a cross section of 5 to 8 mm. The cable is unreliable due to the fact that it cannot withstand the incoming changing loads for a long time.
The cord will allow you to use the crossbow for a long and safe time.
When you have chosen the material of the bowstring and fastened it to the bow, it does not hurt to try it on the bend. It is best to use a dynamometer for these purposes (for 100 - 150 kg). After such tests, you will decide on the important parameters that will be useful in the further manufacture of the crossbow:
Crossbow test
Creation of a lodge
An equally important element is the crossbow bed. In this case, wood is indispensable as the main material. But not all wood can be used. For example, it is worth abandoning aspen, spruce, alder and pine. good option considered oak, beech, elm. For a good crossbow, such a blank must be perfectly dried for a couple of decades, which is in principle unrealistic for ordinary home-made.
Lodge drawing
For a homemade crossbow, 7 - 9 mm plywood with moisture resistant properties is suitable. Then, 3-5 contours of the future part should be cut out of this material and connected with epoxy resin. Despite the external unpresentability, such a detail will be unusually reliable and strong.
Before you make a box, pay attention to some features:
- form: it is better not to choose a semi-pistol form. The best is a straight English stock. The advantage was not only the ease of creation, but also increased strength;
- when you collect all the elements of the lodge, consider the course of the bowstring and the resulting load. The course of the bowstring is the distance from the trigger groove to the block itself. Load - the thickness of the false walls where it is fixed. In a straight English stock, there is no that refinement between the fore-end and the butt, as in the semi-pistol version;
- the arrow guide is the main element of the stock. Make sure it's smooth and strong enough. Do not worry about how to make such a detail. A plate is suitable, which is framed by Moskvich glass or furniture fittings;
Creating a trigger for a crossbow
It is almost impossible to make such a link in the construction of a house, even if you have the necessary scheme. The exception is if you are a professional locksmith and you have the right equipment.
Scheme of the trigger mechanism of the crossbow
Great if you have a USM from an air rifle. After modifying it a little, you will get a finished part for your homemade crossbow.
Above the mechanism itself, a casing should be placed, the height of which is 2–5 cm. It is needed to protect against moisture and debris. In addition, it will become the basis for devices that increase the aiming of shooting - rear sight, optics.
In front of the casing (placed above the trigger itself) has the shape of a tail, the length of which does not exceed 10 cm. It is they who will hold the back of the arrow on the guide itself.
Arrows can be made independently or bought in a specialized department. Congratulations, you were able to make a crossbow with your own hands at home using ready-made drawings with instructions. If you did everything right, then it will serve you for more than one year. Watch the video for more practical tips.
MODERN CROSSBOWS - BASICS, TERMINOLOGY, CLASSIFICATION
Part 1
The popularity of this weapon is growing, more and more people want to touch this beautiful example of human progress. After all, humanity has always sought to hit targets more quickly, more accurately, from a greater distance. Someone wants to touch the dream of childhood, someone hunts, someone wants to make a crossbow with my own hands, and someone likes to just shoot at a target. Most beginners in crossbow business have a lot of questions about what kind of crossbow to buy or make, what a “block”, “guide”, “shako”, “cable” is, how does a “blocker” differ from a “classic” and many other questions.
Indeed, the former powerful throwing weapons of the ancient armies are experiencing a kind of "Renaissance" in our time, now it is available to almost everyone. Any citizen who has reached the age of 18 and has a passport with him can purchase a crossbow with an arc force of up to 43 kg, which has the appropriate certificate. Naturally, there are also restrictions - in our country, crossbows with a pull force of more than 43 kg are considered weapons, and hunting with it is prohibited. That is, even having a hunting license, hunting with a crossbow is not yet fate. Perhaps, after some time, something in this regard will change in our legislation, and the hunter will be able to feel what it is like to be one on one with a powerful beast, when one arrow is loaded and there is no room for error, since reloading a crossbow, even with a cocking lever, it takes a lot of time. Naturally, a hunter with a crossbow has more responsibility, since there is no opportunity to fire a second shot and finish off a wounded animal. The shot must be fired from a short distance and certainly in areas incompatible with the life of the animal.
The meaning of this article is not to tell where and how the crossbow (crossbow) appeared, but to explain what parts the crossbow consists of, what crossbows are, what accessories are used for them, types of ammunition, tension devices, etc.
1. The main parts of the crossbow and basic terms
A modern crossbow, of course, by the principle of operation (ejection of a projectile by a bowstring held by a trigger mechanism, by means of a trigger lever (hook), due to the stored energy of an elastic element (arc, shoulders) located across the bed) does not differ from its older counterpart, however The design has undergone significant changes.
First, consider the main parts of the crossbow on the example of the device, the so-called "classical" layout (Fig. 1). Its most noticeable difference from the usual old crossbow scheme will be only the presence of separate shoulders instead of a solid arc. But since the vast majority of modern crossbows have such separate shoulders, they are in fact the “classics” of our time.
Fig.1. The main parts of the crossbow.
Fig.2. Crossbow with a single guide stock
All parts of the crossbow are mounted on a single profile - the guide. There are crossbows in which all parts are attached directly to the stock and there is no such part as such. In this case, the guide is called the chute in which the arrow is placed. An example of such a crossbow in Fig.2. Please note - the crossbow shown in the last figure also has simpler - straight shoulders. The guide should not have any bends and curvature, because in fact it is the “barrel” of the crossbow. You yourself understand what it will be like to shoot from a weapon with a crooked muzzle. The guide, in the part along which the bowstring and arrow will walk, is polished for better glide of the projectile and less wear on the string winding. Also, additional lubricant is used. The bowstring is rubbed with wax (bees or special for the bowstring).
As mentioned above, in most modern crossbows the arc is split, that is, in fact, we have two separate arms. Firstly, it allows you to raise the shoulders so that they are located at the level of the upper edge of the guide without tilt, which reduces the friction of the bowstring on the guide; secondly, it allows the shoulders to be more parallel to the guide; and thirdly, for ease of transportation. It is very important that both shoulders have the same characteristics in terms of geometric parameters and physical properties.
The shoulders are attached to the rail or directly to the stock with the help of a block - this part, which carries a serious load, is subject to rather stringent requirements in terms of strength and geometry. Indeed, the synchronism of the work of the shoulders will depend on the accuracy of its manufacture, and the reliability and health of the shooter will depend on the strength. In general, in a crossbow, for proper operation and for accurate shooting, the accuracy of the manufacture of mechanisms must be at a fairly high level.
Fig.3. Crossbow-pistol with a separate superstructure above the castle
The string is an important and very important part of the crossbow. It must meet several requirements - be strong, light, flexible, not stretch and hold a jerk well. Mostly, on modern crossbows, a bowstring made of synthetic fiber Dyneema (Dyneema) is woven. Fishing braid is also made from these fibers, which, due to its large selection and availability, is one of the best materials for independent weaving of a bowstring. On the bowstring, in places of friction on the guide and on the loops thrown over the ends of the shoulders, a winding is made, for example, from a nylon thread. Such a winding is rewound as it wears out - this mainly concerns the warhead, where the bowstring wears out the most.
A trigger mechanism (SM) is mounted at the rear of the guide, which is also called a lock. This mechanism keeps the string cocked and allows you to easily release it when you press the trigger (lever). It can be assembled directly into the rail or have a separate housing mounted into it. If the guide, as a separate part, is missing, then the lock cuts directly into the box. The body of the SM crossbow in the upper part usually has a superstructure on which sights or bars are mounted, such as a dovetail, Weaver or Picatinny rail, for all kinds of optical or collimator sights. An arrow clamp is also attached to the superstructure, which is a leaf spring that keeps the arrow from falling out in a loaded crossbow. On some crossbows, the superstructure is not part of the castle, but is attached by a separate piece to the crossbow above the CM (Fig. 3). There are add-ons that can be adjusted - they change the angle of inclination, which makes it possible to adapt the sights of the crossbow to longer distances, because the flight of an arrow in flatness (straightness) is much inferior to firearms. Although, in my humble opinion, this does not make much sense, since the speed of the arrow drops quite strongly with distance, and the time it takes for it to fly, for example, 200 m is quite large. Naturally, the lethality at such a distance is small.
Fig.4. Assembly of the main parts of the crossbow
A little about the crossbow stock. In principle, there are no big differences from the lodges of firearms. The only thing, due to the superstructure and high-raised sights, the butt line is located higher. The guide assembly with the rest of the crossbow is attached to the stock or, as mentioned above, all parts of the crossbow are mounted on the stock itself. An example of the assembly of the main parts of the crossbow is shown in Fig. 4.
2. Classification of crossbows
According to the state standards of the Russian Federation [Change No. 1 GOST R 51905-2002 Sports crossbows, crossbows for recreation and entertainment and shells for them. Technical requirements and safety test methods], crossbows are usually divided into:
crossbows universal sports and hunting and match sports, which are throwing weapons and are intended for use in sports hunting, in the educational and training process and during competitions;
sports crossbows (traditional, field, etc.), not related to throwing weapons, which are sports equipment, intended for use in the educational and training process and during competitions;
crossbows for recreation and entertainment, not related to throwing weapons, which are household goods intended for leisure activities and mass sports;
home-made crossbows (in terms of determining their belonging to throwing weapons during forensic examinations).
The main criterion for gradation is the strength of the arcs of the crossbow (Table 1).
Table 1
For the same guest, there is the following classification table (Table 2). This is what concerns the legislation and standards of the Russian Federation.
table 2
Fig.5. Sports match crossbow.
But I would like to offer a slightly different classification of modern crossbows.
Classification by purpose:
1. Sports match crossbows
2. Copies, replicas of old crossbows
3. Crossbows for entertainment and recreation
4. Hunting crossbows.
With match crossbows (Fig. 5), in general, everything is clear - this is a separate class of crossbows that are sports equipment and at the same time, according to the forensic requirements of the Russian Federation, with weapons. We will not dwell on them in detail.
Fig.6. Replica medieval crossbow(written by "Dirty" Burdwood)
Next, in the second class, there are copies and replicas of ancient crossbows - combat, sports and hunting crossbows, manufactured before the 20th century. That is, these are Greek gastrafets, and arquebuses (a crossbow with a barrel), and schnappers with balestras (crossbows that shoot bullets), as well as classic crossbows, with platoon devices improved over the centuries - with a belt hook, with a "goat's leg", with an English collar, with a kranekin. Naturally, according to the same forensic requirements, most copies, especially authentic ones, will be weapons. But the replicas of ancient crossbows have only an external resemblance to the originals, and even then, often the external differences are so significant that only a person who is completely inexperienced in crossbows can seem like a copy (Fig. 6). Materials for manufacturing can be any, including a variety of polymers. These crossbows may well fit within the framework of the legal 43 kg. Copies and replicas of old crossbows are mainly souvenir and museum products, as well as the path of fans-reenactors of this weapon. Although, abroad there are a fairly large number of crossbow unions that specialize specifically in antique crossbows, hold meetings, exhibitions and shooting competitions. But still, such crossbows are not very suitable for recreational shooting, especially for spears, due to their power (again the notorious “43 kg”), the complexity of manufacturing ammunition (the shape of old bolts is mostly spindle-shaped), which often simply scatter into chips upon impact about the target.
Let me make a comparison - the passion for old crossbows is akin to smoking a pipe. This is a manifestation of some kind of aestheticism, listen to how such people speak about their passion: “... it takes time to enjoy pipe smoking. You can smoke this cigarette on the run, at work, in the toilet. The pipe is a ritual. Choose an hour - another, relax. Let the vanity leave you for a while. Hammer the tube slowly and carefully. Sit back comfortably in your favorite chair. Light it lovingly and take a mouthful of fragrant smoke. Release a puff of smoke and feel how all your problems dissolve in it. Your hand is warmed by a tender and devoted friend, and in her beauty, in the convolutions of wood patterns and smooth lines, you will discover something new every time. Such beauty and devotion in women is sometimes harder to find than in pipes ... "( http://voffka.com/archives/2006/09/19/029976.html).
Let's move on to the so-called crossbows for entertainment and recreation. Most of the crossbows on the market are of this class. This includes pistol crossbows and rifle-type crossbows of all designs not exceeding a peak bowstring force of 43 kg. Many of the crossbows in this group are of the following hunting class, but with shoulders weakened by our country's standards. Although with 43-kilogram shoulders, this is especially true for block crossbows, due to their design features, you can hunt small game and birds. For example, one of the record holders for the arrow speed Bowtech "Desert Stryker" (Fig. 7), was completed for the Russian Federation with weakened arms of 43 kg.
Fig.7. Bowtech "Desert Stryker"
There are no serious design differences in hunting crossbows. The main thing is their powerful shoulders - up to 80 kg in blockers and up to 150 or more in classic crossbows. That allows you to send a heavy arrow with a "broadhead" tip (three or four bladed hunting tip) to the target with good energy. Naturally, hunting crossbows are always the most expensive and most well-equipped devices.
Classification according to the design of the power unit.
1. Crossbows with classic shoulders:
a) with simple shoulders;
b) with recursive arms.
2. Block crossbows:
a) with pulley system with 2, 4, 6 and 8 rollers;
b) with round eccentric blocks;
c) with oval eccentric blocks;
d) with binary eccentrics.
3. Crossbows with non-classical shoulder arrangement:
a) with reverse shoulders;
b) with a different arrangement of shoulders and with a system of rollers (blocks).
Let's analyze the above constructions in order. Simple shoulders in a free state without a bowstring are a straight or slightly curved plate (mono-bow) or a pair of such plates (split shoulders). Most of the old crossbows had a mono bow, but in modern crossbows split shoulders are more common. An example of simple separate shoulders is the model of the Canadian company Excalibur for the teenage generation (Fig. An example of a homemade author with shoulders from a disk from a circular saw is shown in Fig. 2.
Fig.8. Crossbow Excalibur "Apex Light"
The main number of modern crossbows of the "classic" layout is equipped with recursive shoulders. Such shoulders differ from straight ones in that they have a characteristic and rather noticeable forward bend at the ends. In a free state, without a bowstring, the ends of such shoulders, as a rule, go forward further than the string line and even further than the middle of the bow, forming an arc curved from the shooter (Fig. 10). The degree of recursiveness can vary widely. Almost all crossbows manufactured by the same Excalibur company have such shoulders (Fig. 9, 10).
Rice. 9. Crossbow Excalibur "Equinox" with recursive shoulders.
Rice. 10. The front of the Excalibur "VIXEN" crossbow with shoulders without a bowstring.
Recursive arms can also be mono (Fig. 11) or split.
Fig.11. Crossbow Barnett "Commando" with a recursive mono arc.
Both simple and recursive shoulders are made with a narrowing from the root to the ends. Often both in width and in thickness. This is done so that the shoulders bend under tension evenly along the entire length, or even a little stronger towards the tips, which helps to increase the efficiency of the shoulders - the weight is reduced, the speed of straightening the shoulders increases.
Recursiveness helps to achieve even greater efficiency. The curved ends of the shoulders give additional leverage, which, as the string is pulled, seems to increase the length of the shoulder, changing the distance from the center of rotation (from the center of the bow) to the bowstring .. That is, as the resistance of the arc increases, the lever for which we overcome this resistance also increases . Thanks to this, the recurve bow stretches more evenly, its effort changes less throughout the working stroke, and with the tension equal to that of a conventional (simple) bow, the recurve bow has a much greater preload *, which gives it the ability to push the arrow to the very end with great effort. In fact, there is a partial change in the "gear ratio" of the arc force on the bowstring.
(* A bow with a bowstring installed, but in an uncocked state, is prestressed, that is, it has a preload. The preload is selected in such a way that the material from which the shoulders are made has a margin of safety at the required working stroke of the bowstring. That is, there is a compromise between the power of the arc and the properties of the material from which it is made.In simple words, we shorten the bowstring - we increase the preload, respectively, the power of the bow changes upwards, but the chance of its breakage increases with the ensuing consequences of a possible injury to the shooter.)
The next step in the development of crossbows was systems with a chain hoist. The chain hoist is a clip with one or more round movable rollers (Fig. 12). In theory, depending on the multiplicity (the number of cable branches and the number of rollers) of the chain hoist, it is possible to achieve a reduction in the tension of the bowstring from two to four times (systems with two, four, six, eight rollers) and increase the speed of the bowstring when shooting at the same number of times.
Fig.12. The principle of operation of the block and chain hoist. A - single block(with one cable stretched along the groove of a single pulley); b - a combination of two single blocks with a single cable covering both pulleys; c - a pair of two-groove blocks, along four paired grooves of which a single cable passes.
Also, the system with a chain hoist allows you to reduce the transverse dimensions of the crossbow, since the stroke of the end of the shoulder in them is much less with the usual length of the working stroke. In practice, in addition to the advantages, there are also disadvantages of this system: losses due to the friction of the cable on the rollers, the friction of their axes, the movement of the mass of the shoulder earrings (earrings are clips of rollers at the end of the shoulders), the parallelism of the cable branches (strings, which in pulley systems significant).
On fig. 13 shows an example of how, when adding a pair of rollers and the same course of the ends of the shoulders, the course of the bowstring increases.
Fig.13. Comparison of a chain hoist system with simple arms.
There are eight rollers on most pulley crossbows of factory designs (Fig. 14). Crossbows with two rollers are extremely rare (Fig. 15), as well as with six - I can only cite as an example the excellent homemade Lynx crossbow from Zmeelink (Fig. 16). With four rollers, there are many home-made devices (Fig. 17), there are also factory ones (Fig. 1.
Fig.14. Crossbow Interloper "Black Python".
Fig.15. Crossbow by Ralph
On factory and many homemade crossbows, the middle rollers are connected to the next pair of rods, as in fig. 14, 17, 18, but practice has shown that it is better to make them rigidly fixed on the guide, which makes it possible to lower them below the level of the rollers at the ends of the shoulders, without interfering with the free movement of the bowstring and straightening of the shoulders (Fig. 16, 19).
Rice. 16. Crossbow "Lynx" from Zmeelink'a
Rice. 17. Crossbow by daf13
Rice. 18. Crossbow-pistol Interloper "Aspid".
Rice. 19. Crossbow with eight rollers, medium fixed rigidly
For optimal operation of chain hoist systems, the arms, relative to the guide, should be as parallel as possible to it, since the bowstring acts on the ends of the arms by means of rollers that tend to bend the arms not towards the shooter, but to each other. That is, the sharper the angle between the shoulder and the guide, the better. Of course, if the shoulders are placed in parallel, then this will significantly reduce the transverse dimensions of the crossbow, but also increase the longitudinal ones. Therefore, it is worth looking for the “golden mean” here - and the shoulders are rarely placed at an angle less than 45 degrees to the guide. Good solution suggested http://forum.arbalet.info/viewtopic.php?t=2802&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=960 igora - pseudo-parallel arms (Fig. 19).
Rice. 19. Pseudo-parallel arms by igora
As the author himself described it: “The essence of the proposed 2nd method is to make the arms of an ordinary one-piece mono bow work in the same way as parallel to the stock (which all manufacturers strive for) while remaining an ordinary arc and even no bend at all. Along the way, the gear ratio of the used chain hoist increases. Moreover, for example, in the figure, the chain hoist in the 2nd version will give a gear ratio approximately like that of an 8-roller, but in reality only two of them have been added. Well, and (and most importantly!) The direction of the forces applied to the shoulder will straighten out). The biggest joint that I see is a long bowstring, but not longer than that of an 8-roller.
The shoulders of pulley crossbows are made short and rigid, often without narrowing in width and thickness, because the course of the end of the shoulder in these systems is small, and the force that the shoulders must create is many times higher than in the "classical" systems. The material of the factory arms is unidirectional fiberglass. Homemade, most often - springs from cars,
The chain hoist transmits the force from the shoulders to the string through a certain gear ratio (which usually reduces the force and increases the stroke). But since this gear ratio is constant, then as the force on the arc increases, as it bends, it similarly increases on the bowstring. To get rid of this, and to further improve the shooting qualities of crossbows, the so-called blocks appeared. They allow you to transfer force from the shoulders to the bowstring with a variable gear ratio, thus ensuring that, regardless of the degree of bending of the arc and the force on it, the desired force is always on the bowstring. Some of the simplest blocks are round eccentric blocks. This is already a more complex system compared to the chain hoist - each block consists of two rollers fixed together, the axis on which it rotates is offset from the center (Fig. 20). There are two bowstrings - one, of two parts, connecting the power rollers of the blocks and opposite ends of the shoulders, is called a power or technical bowstring (blue with a yellow fork in the figure), and the second is a combat or high-speed bowstring that directly accelerates the arrow (white with a red winding, Fig. 21).
Fig.20. Round eccentric blocks (axle hole highlighted)
Rice. 21. System with round eccentric blocks
The layout and reeving of bowstrings in systems with round eccentric blocks is shown in fig. 22. Also, the ends of the power bowstrings can be attached not to the rollers at the ends of the axes of the blocks (Fig. 21), but by means of a transition piece under the block, attached to the axis (Fig. 23).
Due to the fact that the power bowstring is not much lower than the high-speed one, it became necessary to lower it somewhat so that it does not interfere with the lower plumage of the arrow. Therefore, in all crossbows with eccentrics there is a characteristic slot for a power bowstring, with a part running inside it along a guide with two slots for the left and right power bowstrings (Fig. 22).
Fig.22a. Location of blocks, bowstring and wringing part (top view)
Fig.22b. Location of blocks, bowstring and wringing part (bottom view)
Another feature of the eccentrics is that at the end of the preload, the operation of the block ensures the so-called reset - a sharp decrease in the preload force. Therefore, in such crossbows, the tension force is measured by the peak force, and not when the bowstring is brought to the lock, as with simple and recursive arcs or in pulley systems.
Rice. 23. Crossbow Barnett "Lightning" with round eccentrics.
The next step in the development of crossbows was the use of oval eccentrics instead of round blocks (Fig. 24.). The shape of these blocks only resembles an oval, but in fact it is more complex. The fact is that in such blocks, the control of the force on the bowstring is carried out not only by a simple displacement of the axis of the block, but also by changing the very shape of the rollers forming the block. This allows you to form absolutely any desired effort on the bowstring throughout its entire working course. A small illustration of the operation of an oval eccentric (Fig. 25 (author andrey 74)) shows how the gear ratio changes between the power and speed parts of the block in the process of its unwinding.
Combining the shapes and sizes of the power and speed parts of the block, as well as their relationship with each other, you can choose the optimal characteristics of the effort, speed and stroke of the bowstring for specific arms. Examples of crossbows with oval eccentrics in fig. 26, 27, 28.
Rice. 24. Oval eccentric blocks
Rice. 25. Illustration of the operation of an oval eccentric (by andrey 74)
Fig.26. Ten Point "Phantom"
Rice. 27. Darton "Serpent"
Rice. 28. Crossbow Parker "SAFARI CLASSIC"
On some models of crossbows with oval eccentrics, the blocks are installed in the opposite direction and the bowstring lies on the opposite side from the shooter - these are the so-called "mirror blocks" (Fig. 29). In this case, the crossbow becomes somewhat more compact in the longitudinal direction than with the usual arrangement of eccentrics.
Rice. 29. Crossbow Parker "Cyclone"
Recently, there has been a tendency to increase the blocks almost to the size of the archery. By winding more bowstrings from blocks, we get a greater bowstring travel, which means that the transverse dimensions of crossbows can be further reduced. Despite the fact that with such large eccentrics, the course of the bowstring of crossbows approached 45 cm! The brightest representatives of the new generation of crossbows and the record holders for arrow speed are the PSE "TAC-15" (Fig. 30) and Bowtech "Stryker" (Fig. 32) crossbows. Both crossbows are unique in their own way.
Let's dwell a little more on the TAC-15. Due to its huge eccentrics, the width from the axis to the axis of the blocks in the uncocked state is 42.5 cm, and in the cocked state - 29.8 cm. And the course of the bowstring is a record for a crossbow - 45 cm! With a peak force of 77.2 kg, it is capable of firing a 425 grain (26.44 g) arrow at a speed of 125.6 m/s. At this time, this is an absolute record for crossbows. The kinetic energy developed at the same time is up to 217 J, sufficient for hunting any large animal. The crossbow is also unusual in that the back of the crossbow is from an AR-15 (M16) automatic rifle - as you know, this rifle has a modular design (Fig. 31). Therefore, any weapon based on the M16 can be easily turned into a crossbow. The TAC-15 has a built-in winch-type cocking device. Another point - the arrow of this crossbow does not lie on the guide, but like a bow - it rests on the front edge of the shelf. And the arrows recommended by the manufacturer also have a record length for crossbows - 26.25 inches (~66.7 cm)!
Rice. 30. Crossbow PSE "TAC-15".
Rice. 31. AR-15 rifle
Rice. 32. Bowtech "Stryker" crossbow
The Bowtech "Stryker" crossbow has slightly more modest characteristics, it launches an arrow weighing 425 grains at a speed of 123.4 m / s, while having a kinetic energy of 210 J. Its width from axis to axis of the block in an unstretched state is 69.2 cm, and in the stretched - 61.6 cm, the peak tension force is 79.45 kg with a bowstring stroke of 432 mm. But the "Stryker" has one feature - binary eccentrics, which refers it to the next subclass of block crossbows.
What is their difference between binary eccentrics and ordinary oval ones? Let's try to figure it out. All block crossbows have one bad feature - the center of their bowstring (arrow stop) can shift to the left or right side due to the fact that each rotates independently, as a result of which the shooting accuracy drops. In binary systems, on the blocks there is an additional third pulley, on which the other end of the power string of the right or left side is wound, due to which synchronization occurs (Fig. 33. (author igora)). On fig. 34 shows an example of a binary eccentric compound bow for clarity.
Rice. 33. Illustration of how binary eccentrics work by igora
Rice. 34. Binary eccentric compound bow
Even the brilliant Leonardo da Vinci came up with a scheme of crossbows with reverse shoulders (Fig. 35), and only recently crossbows of such a scheme began to be mass-produced. The first sign was the Armcross "LeoPro" crossbow, created by Russian designers (Fig. 36). The main advantages of such crossbows are: compactness (reduced longitudinal and transverse dimensions), more successful weight distribution, reduced shot recoil, because the shoulders when shooting do not move from the shooter, but, as it were, to each other and a little “in the shoulder”. On fig. 37 shows how compact the "LeoPro" is. Among the shortcomings of the crossbow, one can distinguish an acute angle of pulling the bowstring (Fig. 3, due to which it is convenient to cock the crossbow only with the help of a cocking device, and also, purely hypothetically, it can be assumed that the shoulders too close to the shooter’s face in the event of a breakdown can injure.
Rice. 35. Schemes of Leonardo da Vinci
Rice. 36. Crossbow Armcross "LeoPro"
Rice. 37. Crossbow Armcross "LeoPro" with a vest designed specifically for him
Rice. 38. Cocking the Armcross "LeoPro" crossbow with tensioner(shown below to the right)
Rice. 39. Crossbow Horton “Recon 175”
Another crossbow with reverse shoulders is produced by Horton - "Recon 175" (Fig. 39). Please note that both of the most famous crossbows with reverse shoulders have round eccentrics, which does not prevent them from showing very good characteristics - the initial speed of the arrow reaches 99 m / s.
It is not advisable to make such crossbows with a classic layout, that is, without blocks, since the shoulders will “run away” in the opposite direction from tension and the efficiency, relative to crossbows with a classically located arc, will be much lower.
Recently, another player has appeared in the camp of crossbows with reverse shoulders - "Scorpyd" (Fig. 40). According to new trends, its blocks are binary and have large sizes. Claimed muzzle velocity is 425 fps, which translates to 129.5 m/s! The string travel of this compact crossbow reaches a record 52 cm!
Rice. 40. Crossbow “Scorpyd” SLP
Among homemade products, there are also crossbows of a similar design. Almost all have a similar "LeoPro" design, but mostly with a chain hoist system in two or four rollers (Fig. 41, 42, 43).
Fig.41. Crossbow from OLEKS
Fig.42. Crossbow by sa1982
Rice. 43. Crossbow from Frank
So, it's time to touch on the last type of crossbow with a non-classical shoulder arrangement - this is the crossbow that was released by the Swiss company Swiss Crossbow Makers - "Twinbow II" (Fig. 44). This crossbow is unusual not only in the location and work of the shoulders, but also in a peculiar cocking device (Fig. 45). With compact dimensions (length 875 mm, width 420 mm) and a bowstring stroke of only 197 mm, it has very good power - with a tension of 180 kg, an arrow speed of up to 113 m / s and an energy of 145 J! When the bowstring is pulled, the arms become almost parallel, both ends of each arm work through the roller system. As a result, the recoil when shooting from such a powerful crossbow is practically not felt.
Fig.44. Crossbow “Twinbow II”
Fig.45. Crossbow cocking “Twinbow II”
There are several homemade crossbows made according to the "Twinbow II" scheme. The gunsmith111 crossbow (fig.46) has a twin system without a cocking lever. But on shushai crossbows, the main feature of the Swiss is implemented - cocking with a lever (Fig. 47 and 4.
Rice. 46. Crossbow by gunsmith111
Rice. 47. Crossbow "Dusk" by shushai
Rice. 48. Crossbow "Cyclone" by shushai
PART 2
3. Triggers of modern crossbows.
As mentioned above, the trigger mechanism (lock) of the crossbow can be an integral part of the design of the guide (stock) or can be mounted in a separate housing. The latter are much more common among both manufacturers of crossbows and do-it-yourselfers, due to the convenience of mounting a ready-made trigger mechanism (CM) in any place.
With all the variety of modern crossbow triggers, locks can be divided into three main types:
a) with a lower hook (nut, cracker) (Fig. 49a);
b) with an upper hook (Fig. 49b).
c) with a fixed hook (pin lock) (Fig. 49c)
A) 
b)
Rice. 49. Triggers with lower (a) and upper (b) hook
Attention: when using the materials of this article, a link to the site, as well as an indication of the author of the article REQUIRED!
The crossbow is a throwing weapon that is an advanced design of the bow. Its advantage is the ability to aim without any extra effort. Specifications guns increase the lethal force and accuracy of fire. In our country, the use of this type of throwing weapon is unpopular, since it is difficult to find the necessary design. There is very little inventory, but user interest is quite high. Crossbows are quite expensive. However, the device of the tool is quite simple, so you can easily do it yourself.
What is a crossbow used for?
First of all, it is worth noting that the use of throwing weapons with a pull force of more than 43 kgf is illegal, whether they are homemade or bought from official manufacturers. Today, the main use of the crossbow is sport competitions and active recreation.
The device itself was first created two and a half thousand years ago in China. In Europe, the gun gained popularity only by the beginning of the twelfth century and was used exclusively for military purposes. Later homemade crossbows were used for hunting. However, only rich people could afford expensive mechanisms and special arrows.
Arrows for this type of weapon are much heavier and are more commonly referred to as bolts. Their use is necessary, since the tension force of the bowstring is much higher and requires the use of heavy projectiles. They, in turn, provide increased power when hit. Now, the ban on hunting with throwing weapons in Russia and the CIS countries does not allow the use of a crossbow to catch game. Throwing weapons are used exclusively for sporting purposes.
Differences and adaptations
The bow and crossbow have several obvious differences that must be taken into account when creating weapons with your own hands. The main differences are:
Tension force. Since the design of the crossbow allows you to pull the bowstring with more force, a reliable mechanism is required that does not fail. When buying it, you should not skimp, because it guarantees not only safety, but also durability. It is also convenient to use a device for string tension. 
Use of bolts. By adding a spring to hold the projectile, the gun can be used at any desired angle. Aim. Installation additional equipment will ensure accuracy and make it easier to shoot from the shoulder, by analogy with a firearm.
In addition, when creating a throwing weapon with your own hands, it is worth Special attention pay attention to the method of string tension. There are several of them. The most reliable and popular are:
Leg or hand braces. A very popular type of tension. However, its use is only available for crossbows with low power. Belt and hook. This method allows you to fix the tool machine with your feet, like the first example. When bent, the hook clings to the bowstring, and restoring the position produces its tension and fixation. An improved type of the second method is a rope with the use of rollers. The mount is also mounted on the belt. The use of two curved levers stacked on pins is called a "goat's foot". Pins protrude on both sides of the stock. The owner pulls the opposite side towards him, thereby exercising tension. Pull lever. The essence of the method lies in the coupling of the hook and bracket on the front of the box. Thus, the bowstring is pressed back. Use of rack and pinion. A very ancient technology that appeared in the fifteenth century in Germany. The tension is carried out by a collar, which allows the method to be applied to very powerful crossbows. Very suitable for hunting, because it has lethal force.
There are also many other ways to stretch the bowstring for certain types of weapons. However, they are used much less often and were used in ancient times. Their safety is much lower, which does not guarantee the correct use of weapons. To create a crossbow with your own hands, it is recommended to use one of the above methods.
How to create a throwing weapon
When creating a crossbow with your own hands, it is important to understand that the design must be strong and reliable. Making homemade throwing weapons is not difficult, but it requires a very responsible approach to work.
First you need to decide on the purpose of using the tool. If it will be used for hunting, then special emphasis should be given to the tension mechanism and the bed. If you make the design correctly, then it will be much easier to cope with the shooting technique.
After determining the required characteristics, you need to make drawings of the future weapon or find ready-made ones on the Internet. They will not only facilitate the creation process, but also organize the workflow. It is best to use carefully designed drawings with dimensions..
Devices and materials
Before you make a throwing weapon for hunting with a small tension force, you need to organize a workplace and prepare the necessary materials. Here are the main items you will need:
- two meter bars of coniferous wood; thin rail 6x1 cm; polyurethane tube with a diameter of 3 cm; nylon fishing line; wheels with a groove in the middle of the rib; screws and nails 5 cm long; glue; wooden dowels (6 pieces); adhesive tape and foam; vise and rasp; hammer, chisel, saw and drill; pen or pencil.
Also, in the process of work, additional materials may be needed to give an aesthetic appearance to the tool. However, you can do this at your own discretion. When using a crossbow for hunting, appearance is not so important. However, it can be polished and decorated as desired.
The working process
First of all, you need to make a tool bed. This is the main part to which the rest of the structure is attached. Take one of the prepared bars and attach it to your shoulder to determine a comfortable length. Make a mark with a pencil and saw off the unnecessary part. With your other hand, mark the comfortable position of the trigger. When creating tools with your own hands, it is worth considering that power depends on the length of the stock. The longer the length, the stronger force tension. For hunting, it is better to use a longer bar. At the location of the trigger, with a chisel and a rasp, cut a rectangle measuring 10x2.5 cm. Cut a strip across the resulting hole in which the bowstring will be located.
Now along the timber it is necessary to cut a chute for the arrow. Since the work is done by hand, it is extremely important to approach this stage responsibly. The accuracy of shooting depends on the correct position. Using a drill and a hammer, knock out a 5 mm deep gutter exactly in the center and grind it.
Saw off another bar to a length of 60 cm and glue it to the main part of the crossbow. Let the glue dry. After complete fixing, if desired, parts can be polished. You can make it with your own hands, or with special polishing devices.
Now that the main part of the structure is ready, you need to make the shoulders. To do this, use two polymer pipes, each 90 cm long. Make cuts at the ends of one side into which the bowstring will be placed. Their width should correspond to the prepared screws. Insert them into the cuts made and attach the wheels with the chute.
Get some nylon line. Fasten it to one of the screws, then wrap it around each wheel, going from one side to the other. After winding around the wheels, fasten the fishing line to another screw with a stretch. The result should be a curved structure with three rows of strings. When tensioned, the pipes should bend, if this does not happen, repeat the procedure again.
After completing the stage, it is necessary to fix the resulting structure on the main part of the crossbow. To do this, cut a hole at the end of the beam into which the arc will be attached. Insert the pipe into the hollow and wrap it securely with tape. Keep in mind that one string (more stretched) should be on top, and the other two on the bottom.
Now you can move on to the trigger mechanism. Take the prepared rail and cut out the letter "L" from it. At the base of the bend, cut the gutter so that it is centered and has a width equal to one-third of the full base. Now you need to cut the part so that it matches the hole in the stock. On the bend, on the side, drill a hole the thickness of the nail. Place the part in the hole in the stock and drive a nail into it so that it goes through the drilled hole in the part.
It remains only to focus. A sawn-off 20-centimeter bar will serve as it, which must be sanded for convenience. It can be attached to the main body with nails or glue. Wrap the stop with foam and secure with tape.
This completes the creation of a crossbow for hunting. It remains to make only arrows. They are easy to make from wooden dowels, cut to the desired length. On the one hand, an incision is made for the bowstring, on the other, the end is sharpened.
The main thing is not to use the tool in public places and near places of residence and objects of possible presence of people. By following the safety rules, you can have a great time not only hunting, but also doing outdoor activities.
Now it has become fashionable to hunt with a bow and crossbow. Although it is forbidden in our country, it is still possible to shoot at targets by practicing this difficult task. You can make a crossbow with your own hands at home for training. After all, good models from well-known companies are very expensive. And it can be made "under itself". It is worth remembering that if the weapon is with an interference of more than 20 kg, then it is considered a melee weapon. Therefore, when creating a crossbow, this important nuance should be taken into account.
There are classic models, they look like ancient ones, and their design is simple. There are also modern crossbows, they are called "block". Such weapons have a more complex design due to blocks and other innovations that enhance their power. It will be much more difficult to make such a crossbow at home, but the description of this process and the drawings that will be detailed in the article will help you with this.
The crossbow has many components:
in some modern models there are blocks at the ends of the bow.
trigger mechanism;
What to make a crossbow
The main material from which the crossbow is made is wood. It is used to make a bed and a bow. The trigger mechanism in powerful samples is machined from iron. And those in which the tension force is less than 20 kg can be made of solid wood, it will withstand it. Also, spring metal and various composites are used for bows.
Ordinary wooden crossbow
To begin with, let's look at how easy it is to make a crossbow with your own hands, and start with its simple form. This is a standard design of ancient weapons, and it can be used not only for shooting, but also as a spectacular piece of furniture, hanging on the wall.
What tree to use
To create a crossbow, you need to choose:
All these breeds are dense enough to withstand the enormous loads that will affect the bow and crossbow stock.
Material preparation
In order for the weapon to shoot long and powerfully, its material must be properly dried for a year. Having cut off the necessary trunk or branch, both cuts must be painted over. To do this, you can use any glue, paint or varnish. If you close the cuts in this way, moisture will not be able to quickly leave the workpiece, so the wood will dry more slowly and more evenly. So internal cracks do not form in the material, and a do-it-yourself crossbow made at home will last a very long time.
After that, the log is placed in a dry place where the sun's rays will not fall on it. So it should lie for a year. After the lapse of time, the bark is removed from the workpiece, so it dries for another week. The log is then cut in half. So it lies for another week, only after that you can start creating a crossbow.
Tools for making a crossbow
Sandpaper of different grits.
Joiner's cutter.
Chisel.
Making a bow
On the workpiece, choose the side in which the annual rings of the tree are thinner. This is the north side, the fibers on it are denser than in other parts. It is this that we will use when creating a crossbow with our own hands at home. From this part you need to make a bow.
They outline the middle, about two centimeters are laid off from it on both sides, marking out the part that will be clamped in the crossbow bed. This will be the thickest part of the bow. From it they begin to cut off the material, moving gradually towards the edges. Chip the workpiece gradually on both sides, while checking until it starts to bend at least a little.
After that, you need to take a strong rope, make loops at its ends. This will be a test thread. It is necessary to check the tightness of the bow. It is very important that his shoulders flex evenly. Putting on an impromptu bowstring and pulling the bow, you can see where to shoot the material. They are marked, carefully cut with a knife. So you need to continue until the product begins to bend evenly on both sides.
Knot processing
Very often, knots come across on the material: some are visible immediately, others can open during the processing of the material. What they are dangerous for is that they can cause chips to form. Therefore, you need to handle such places with a well-sharpened knife. If there is no confidence or experience, it is better to tinker a little longer and sand them with sandpaper. You can also use a file for this purpose.
Bed
When the bow is ready, it is set aside and proceed to the manufacture of the bed. To begin with, they choose where the chute will be, along which the arrow will fly out, make this place perfectly flat. It will depend on him how accurately the crossbow will shoot. To understand everything, it is better to look at the drawing of the crossbow. How to make his bed is shown in detail here. After that, the groove is cut to the required length. Usually it is about 30 cm. Then they make a recess for the bow and the trigger. It is convenient to cut them with a chisel and a carpenter's knife.
Trigger mechanism
As mentioned above, it can be made from dense wood or, if the crossbow is powerful, from metal. The most is the so-called "nut". It consists of a cylinder, where on the one hand there is a hook for the bowstring, and on the other hand there is an emphasis for the trigger. IN powerful crossbows the trigger is more refined for easier trigger pulling under load.
We examined in detail, the Master class with drawings, we hope, will help to understand all the intricacies.
This is a common medieval model. Now we will learn how to make the same weapon, only a modern model.
Block crossbow
It is much more difficult to make such an apparatus, it will require much more tools than for a conventional one. So, we create a crossbow with our own hands at home from fiberglass. This material is ideal for making bows, because it is biting and at the same time light. It can be cut from a single piece of fiberglass 1 cm thick or made by yourself. If you are not too lazy to tinker, then it is better to make it yourself.
We make fiberglass shoulders for a crossbow
You need to take fiberglass or Kevlar and cut into strips. They need from 30 to 40. In general, it is better to try everything empirically. These strips are glued with epoxy resin so that everything becomes monolithic when solidified. You also need to think about how to put all this "sandwich" under the press. It is best to use boards between which to place the shoulders, clamp everything with clamps.
B should have less thickener than usual, ranging from 8 to 10%. Everything freezes in 24 hours, but if the room is cold, the time may increase. When everything is frozen, the shoulders are finalized by cutting off the protruding edges with a knife and sanding with sandpaper.
Now we will analyze in detail how to make a crossbow with your own hands at home and what additional elements of its design you need to make.
We make a figured bed
To do this, you need to take a board with a thickness of at least 4 cm. Mark where the butt, handle, trigger and mounts for the bow shoulders will be. In general, everything is according to the drawings. After that, you need to drill all the necessary holes and cut out.
Blocks
They can be made from aluminium. Better if they were on bearings. The middle parts from roller skate wheels are perfect. They are strong enough to withstand heavy loads, plus their size is perfect. Axes under them are needed in 5 mm thick. You can take them from the videos or make your own.
Fasteners are made of sheet steel or similar durable material. You can also make the ends thicker before pouring epoxy resin on the shoulders of the bow, to install the blocks, in which case fasteners are not needed.
After that, on a do-it-yourself crossbow made at home, you need to install a trigger mechanism with a trigger and an arrow holder. In general, all parts are connected with bolts, washers are required. They will allow you to twist everything more tightly without damaging the material.
In block crossbows, the bowstring is longer and stretched differently. It seems to cross, and when tensioned, this system allows you to give the arrow twice as much energy for flight as in the case of a conventional crossbow with the same bow.
In powerful block models, the bowstring is the only one capable of withstanding huge sharp pressure when fired. In crossbows, whose power is not more than 40-50 kg, it can be woven from nylon threads.
Making a string for a crossbow
In the described way, you can make a bowstring for both a recursive and a classic crossbow. It's just that their length will be different due to the peculiarities in the designs of both models.
They take a board with the length of the planned bowstring, drive in two pegs, which are wound around in a circle. When the thickness of this long oval becomes 5 mm, it is wrapped, making a gap of 2-3 mm between the turns. Near the pegs you need to braid without gaps, because there will be loops for the hook.
As for the bowstring, we can also say that if you make it too thick, then the strength of the crossbow decreases. However, the thin one can break. So in this case, you need to choose an intermediate thickness. It is better to study similar sports models with the same tightness and make a bowstring of their thickness. When this is done, the two halves are joined and wrapped together. Again, special care is needed near the loops. Then they wrap around the middle, where the bowstring will be hooked and push the arrow. This place is also done carefully, because a friction force of enormous power will be exerted on it. All cut edges of the threads must be smeared with glue. This will make them more dense and monolithic.
This article provides drawings and a description of how to make a real crossbow at home. It's not that difficult, especially if you're making wooden weapons. If the product is made for hunting in order to achieve tremendous power, then you should choose a block model. Its design is a little more complicated, you may need a machine to make some parts.
