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Having decided to decorate his life with regal flowers, the gardener will have to decide when to plant lilies: in spring or autumn. Much depends on the right time: flowering, preparing the plant for winter, its health.

When is the best time to plant

Usually summer residents prefer to plant lilies in the fall. This is correct from the point of view of the biological cycle of the lily: having completed its flowering, it begins to prepare for winter. The corm restores the strength spent on luxurious flowers, stores nutrients, and then plunges into a dormant state. This is the right time for landing. The plant wakes up pretty quickly, builds up the root system and its own body. So conceived by nature, her wise decision should not be contradicted.

Important! Lilies planted in autumn form much more daughter bulbs, better suited for independent living.

Optimal landing schedule by region:

Middle band: mid-September - end of October;
Ural: beginning of September - first decade of October;
Siberia: September;
South of Russia, Ukraine: from the first of September to the end of November.

It is important to follow the order of landing:

always start with candida blooming in June;
then plant lilies of American and Caucasian origin;
they complete the planting with oriental, tubular, tiger, Tibetan, Asian women can be planted in the summer.

When to plant lilies in open ground in autumn, it is determined by the air temperature - it should be around + 10 ° C. In warmer weather, the bulb will grow, in cold weather, it will not have time to take root, it will endure wintering worse.

Planting lilies in autumn

Bulbs have time to get comfortable in a new place, to get stronger before the winter cold. With the very first warm days, they begin to grow, and they endure the return frosts of April-May without catastrophic consequences.

Important! Candidias, martagons, some oriental hybrids are planted at the end of August (for Siberia, the deadline is the middle of the month).

In the spring, lilies are planted that are not adapted to harsh winters - most orientals, all American, tubular and derivative hybrids, late flowering Asiatic lilies. Mid-April is considered the optimal time, the determining factor is that the soil has completely thawed, warmed up moderately. In the south, garden lilies are planted earlier.

During spring planting, the order is also observed when certain types of lilies are planted: tiger, Tibetan lilies are planted first, terry ones are last, as they are more demanding on heat.

Note! Water lilies are planted only in spring.

Also in the spring they postpone the planting of bulbs, which, according to different reasons not landed in the autumn period:

sudden early persistent colds;
planting material was purchased at the end-of-season sale;
The parcel with the ordered nodules arrived late.

bulb storage

This situation necessitates the storage of bulbs. There are several rules to help keep them until spring:

before laying for storage, the bulbs are inspected, cut off the damaged areas, disinfected;
carry out anti-fungal treatment with potassium permanganate, a solution of any fungicide;
dry the material in a dark cool room.

Store wrapped in paper or sprinkled with sawdust. For storage, a ventilated room with moderate humidity, where the temperature is kept at 3-5 ° C, is suitable. A small amount of corms are kept in the refrigerator.

Important! Planting material requires care: it is regularly checked in order to timely identify tubers that have begun to mold or rot, as well as those that have begun to germinate. Sick bulbs are processed, put away for storage, sprouted ones are planted in pots.

How to plant lilies

In order for graceful flowers to reveal their beauty to the fullest, the summer resident needs to know how to plant lily bulbs correctly.

Location selection

The most difficult thing in growing an aristocrat is choosing the right place: requirements various kinds do not match.

Place for planting lilies

General conditions for all lilies:

protection from cold winds or drafts;
good drainage;
no stagnant melt or rain water.

Relation to lighting and wind

Fact! Oriental and curly hybrids thrive in light shade to help preserve corolla color. Asians and LA hybrids love the sun, but grow and bloom well in ambient light.

Protection from the wind has its additional conditions: the place where they are planted must nevertheless be well ventilated, since the lack of ventilation between the stems leads to sad results - to diseases and pests.

Summer residents consider the statement fair about the choice of a place: it is easier to choose a lily suitable for a free place on a plot than to find where to plant an already purchased bulb.

Soil Requirements

Here, too, the individuality of the species is manifested. Breathable loams or sandstones with a high humus content are generally preferred. As for the pH indicator, there are differences:

candida, martagon, lily Henry prefer slightly alkaline soil;
long-flowered, Canadian, brindle and their hybrids prefer a slightly acidic environment;
if the origin of the lily is unknown, stop at a neutral reaction.

Landing site preparation

Preliminary preparation is obligatory even for soil ideally suitable for lilies: digging by 40 cm to saturate the earth with oxygen and fertilize:

compost or humus - 5-10 kg / sq. m;
potassium sulfate - 30-50 g / sq. m;
superphosphate - 60-100 g / sq. m.

It is possible to use ready-made complex compositions for bulbous or especially for lilies, which are used according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Bulb planting depth

Usually they use the typical rule for bulbs: the distance from the bottom to the surface of the earth is three bulb sizes. But there are a number of clarifications that determine how much one or another variety needs to be deepened:

stem-root lilies deepen by 25 cm or more;
undersized cultivars require a depth of 10-12 cm;
medium-sized need a seal of 12-15 cm;
tall ones are planted at a depth of 15-20 cm.

The data are given for large bulbs, small planting material is planted at 2/3 of the depth recommended for large.

Important! On heavy soils, the planting depth is less than on light soils.

bulb preparation

All bulbs - bought in a specialized store, purchased from neighbors in the country, own, pre-cooked. The material is cleaned, the sections are disinfected. Remove dry scales, dead roots. Etch with potassium permanganate (5 g / 1 l of water, explication time 30 minutes), Fundazol (0.2%) or Karbofos (1 tbsp / 10 l of water). Dry.

Preparing bulbs for planting

Landing technology

Holes are dug just before planting. The distance between them is determined quite arbitrarily, but they make sure that they are separated from each other by at least 15-30 cm, depending on the height. If flowers are grown for cutting, the pitch is increased.

Landing step by step guide:

shorten the roots, leaving a maximum length of 10 cm;
coarse river sand, washed and disinfected, is poured into the bottom of the landing hole, a mound is formed from it;
a corm is installed on the mound, the roots are straightened along the slopes;
pour sand to completely cover the bulb;
top up the soil;
water abundantly, spread the mulch with a layer of 5-7 cm.

Mulch material is selected according to the type of lilies - sawdust, peat are suitable for Asian, oriental, LA hybrids; for martagons, compost and wood ash are mixed; for the rest, the material is not important, the main thing is that it be organic.

Note! To prevent mice or other rodents from eating the planted bulbs in winter, they are coated with a repellent composition. The inexpensive Vishnevsky ointment is best suited for this purpose.

Features of planting daughter bulbs and bulbs

For reproduction of lilies, daughter bulbs are usually used, which are overgrown with an adult, maternal one. A number of varieties, called bulbous, form such bulbs (buds) in the axils of the leaves. Planting small material has a number of features.

Planting buds

The least traumatic way to propagate lilies, which does not require digging up the main bulb. Tiny baby bulbs are formed in many Asian hybrids, tubular, brindle and individual varieties.

Planting buds

Children finally mature by the end of the flowering of the mother plant: they are easily separated from the stem; some have time to release small roots, less often - miniature leaves.

Even if the reproduction of a lily is not included in the gardener's plans, mature children are collected so that the flower beds are not clogged with unnecessary growth. If the goal is to breed this variety, then they prepare in advance for planting baby bulbs:

choose a place for a school-bed, better shaded;
dig up the soil while applying a special fertilizer for lilies or a mixture of ammonium nitrate (30 g / sq. M), potassium sulfate (10 g / sq. M), superphosphate (10 g / sq. M).

Ripe bulbs immediately after collection are kept in a weak solution of manganese for 2 hours for disinfection, then they are planted in grooves about 3 cm deep in increments of 5-6 cm, covered with earth and watered well. After watering, lay out a layer of organic mulch.

lily bulbs

Bulbous lilies are frost-resistant, so young growth does not need shelter for the winter. As insurance for shkolki, dry foliage is raked up, covered with spruce branches.

Planting baby bulbs

This method of reproduction involves regular, once every 3-4 years, digging up the mother plant in order to separate the children from the main bulb. The best time for this is a month after the end of flowering, when the main bulb has recovered and grown stronger. Some varieties can not be dug up, because. children are formed on the underground part of the stem, it is enough to rake the soil, sift it.

Such bulbs are planted on school beds, prepared in the same way as in the previous case, only the embedment depth is 3-5 cm, and the step is 10-12 cm. The process of preparing daughter bulbs is similar to preparing bud bulbs.

In the first year of flowering, plants grown from children will not be, full-fledged lily buds form in the second year. Experienced lily growers recommend abandoning the first flowers in favor of building up the bulb and strengthening it.

Additional Information. Baby bulbs can be germinated at home in flower containers, or stored until spring planting in the refrigerator or on a cold closed balcony.

What is the difference between planting lilies at home

How to plant lilies and care for them at home - the process is no more complicated than in the open field, but just as exciting, especially since the flowering period can be adjusted - get a flowering plant by March 8 or a family date.

Having decided which variety will be grown, pick up a pot. The approximate ratio of plant height to container height is 4: 1; an area of 16-18 square meters is required for the development of a large bulb. cm.

Planting in a pot

Several bulbs are planted in a large pot: if it is crowded, the lilies will bloom more readily. In a large space, they will be engaged in reproduction - building up children until the excess "living space" is filled.

How to plant lilies in a pot, the instruction describes:

choose Asian, oriental, long-flowered hybrids. Their height - dwarf, medium or tall - is determined based on the possibilities of the interior;
a bulb suitable for planting should be healthy, dense, weighing about 40 g;
For 2-3 weeks, the bulb is kept at a temperature of about 5 ° C - stratified;
before planting, they are subjected to a 2-hour disinfection with potassium permanganate, then placed for 12 hours in a growth stimulator;
5 cm of drainage are placed at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay, pebbles, crushed bricks, 10 cm of nutrient soil mixture is poured;
lay the bulbs upside down, slightly pressing into the ground;
fall asleep with a thick (15-20 cm) layer of the substrate, abundantly watered with warm soft water.

Important! At least 7 cm should remain from the surface of the earth to the edge of the pot to add soil as the lily grows and adventitious roots form.

To correctly determine when to plant pot lily bulbs, study the characteristics of the selected variety - how long does it take from germination to flowering plus 2-3 weeks for germination.

When choosing the timing for planting lilies - autumn or spring - they weigh all the pros and cons so that they grow healthy, full and long-blooming, replacing each other, beautiful flowers.

Among the many garden plants there are favorites, and lily is one of them. Elegance and grace, unique aroma and quirkiness of form make this plant the queen of the bulbous flower garden.

The variety of forms and varieties allows you to use this plant as a soloist and add to flower ensembles. Lily is grown:

in the flower garden;
in the flowerbed;
greenhouse and winter gardens;
mobile containers;
balcony boxes;
on the terraces;
in the courtyards.

Lily bulb, what is it?

When purchasing planting material, you should pay attention to the fact that the bulb was:

healthy;
dense;
clean;
without signs of rot (especially on the bottom).

Considering the outer scales, it should be noted that damage can be:

mechanical (trauma when digging);
pathological (viral, fungal, bacterial lesions).

To avoid infection in the flower garden when planting, it is better to remove damaged scales.

If the bulb has roots, they should not be dry, much less show signs of rot. These roots grow from the bottom and live 1.5-2 years.

Bulb size matters. Those that are less than 10 cm in diameter may not please the grower with a bouquet.

Flower growers-businessmen often sell the bulb after forcing. Such material is easy to distinguish from normal. Bulb:

light;
loose;
in the center has a recess (a trace from the peduncle).

A lily bulb after forcing has one advantage - a low price.

There is no point in buying something that needs to be thrown away. As a rule, even if the bulb does not die, it will take 3-4 g to restore strength.

Lily looks great in a composition with hydrangea and liatris.

Buying lily bulbs

IN modern world bulbs are sold all year round. However, the botanical features of the plant are such that best time landing is the end of August and September. Why? Because it is during this period that the bulb is in a dormant period. With a month or even a month and a half left, the florist manages to:

decide on the choice of planting material;
buy bulbs;
prepare the landing site;
plant bulbs.

If the delivery of the material is late, outside is November and frost, and the bulb is on the way, then it is better not to risk it. Upon arrival, the bulb can be planted in a pot and lowered into the basement, and in the spring, by transshipment, planted in the open ground of the flower garden.

Late planting will not give the opportunity to take root well, this can lead to the loss of the bulb.

Since so many stores order bulbs abroad (Holland), they are not able to deliver on time. The flower grower does not want to take risks and refuses to buy in the winter. Sellers have already learned how to store bulbs in peat and sell them in the spring. At this time, it is permissible for the bulb to be sprouted. However, you need to carefully look at the scales.

If the bulb has begun to grow, but it is impossible to plant, you can put the bulb in the refrigerator. This will slow down development. Alternatively, you can plant the bulb in a pot, and if possible, plant it in open ground. If the bulb is a little dry, wrap it in a damp cloth.

In summer, the sale of blooming lilies is practiced. If the root system is carefully removed, then the plant tolerates the transplant well. Lily is one of the few plants that can be transplanted at any stage of the growing season.

Site preparation

Lily is unpretentious. By planting bulbs different types you can enjoy flowering for 4-5 years.

Lilies do not cross pollinate. Pollination is used only in breeding work.

Since lilies do not require an annual transplant, the place of growth must be approached responsibly. It would be ideal if:

plot with fresh soil. Unfortunately, this is rarely possible, so it is advisable to choose a place without previous bulbous plants, as well as asters (they have common diseases);
the place is protected from strong winds;
area without standing water.

If the soil on the site is heavy, then it is advisable to point-wise make a fresh soil mixture for planting the bulbs. It can be prepared according to the following recipe:

peat - 1 part;
sand - 1 part;
humus - 1 part;
fresh compost - 1 part.

If the soils are light, then for digging one square meter they make:

humus - 15 kg;
bone meal - 20 g;
urea - 20 g;
superphosphate - 35-40 g;
potassium sulfate - 20-25 g.

Dig up the soil by 35-40 cm.

planting lilies

When planting bulbs, the rule works - the depth is equal to the height of three bulbs. Lily is no exception. The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted. On heavy soils and if the bulbs are young, strong penetration is not recommended. Tubular hybrids are less frost-resistant - they are planted at a depth of at least 20 cm. The distance between the bulbs is 25-30 cm, between the rows is 50-60 cm.

Having made furrows, the bottom is covered with sand. Having put the bulb, not a lot of sand is also added to its base, and then a thorough embedment is carried out with a soil mixture. This will protect the bottom from decay and the spread of a fungal infection. After planting, the soil is watered and mulched.

Many experienced flower growers practice deep planting. They motivate this by saying:

A plant with such a planting develops adventitious stem roots and consumes more nutrients. This helps to grow a large mother bulb and, as a result, achieve a large flower;
A strong stem is better kept in an upright position and does not require support.

When planting in August-September, the landing site should be marked. Lily is not a primrose. The tulips are already in full bloom, and she is only showing her “head”. Do not rush to conclusions. The mulching material is removed with the onset of heat, but the seedlings should wait a bit.

Kind: lily
Flowering period: May, June, July, August, September, October
Height: 20-250cm
Color: white, yellow, orange, red, spotted, double color
perennial
hibernates
sun-loving
moisture-loving

Lily is an amazingly beautiful flower with a pleasant aroma, which was revered in many cultures. The Greeks attributed to her a divine origin, believing that the lily grew from the milk of Juno, the mother of the gods. And when literally translated from Greek, “li-li” sounds like “white-white”. The Romans revered her as the main flower at the festivities glorifying the goddess of spring Flora. Christians and Jews adorn their sacred altars with it, considering the lily a symbol of purity. This flower can be found on the coats of arms of noble families from different countries. Today, lilies adorn many parks and suburban areas, acting as a bright accent in any flower garden. One of mandatory conditions lush flowering of these marvelous plants is proper fit lilies and their care.

According to the international classification, these flowering perennial bulbous plants are divided into 9 groups:

Asian- include 5 thousand varieties. Differ in unpretentiousness and winter hardiness, flowers do not smell.
Curly- there are 200 varieties. The name was given due to the inflorescences resembling a candlestick with drooping heads.
snow white– includes 30 varieties. They have a marvelous aroma, may have a pale yellow color. Very capricious.
American- there are 140 varieties. The flowers are very original in bright exotic colors, often decorated with two-tone black specks. Pretty picky.
Longiflora- have an elongated bud shape with a direction to the side or down, Unusually fragrant. In garden conditions, they often suffer from viral diseases, more are grown as greenhouse crops.
Tubular- have a characteristic flower shape resembling an elongated gramophone, assembled from dense wax petals. Capricious, need shelter for the winter.
Orientals (Eastern)- a large group has 1300 varieties. Capricious, demanding of warmth, often affected by diseases.
Interspecific hybrids- bring together best qualities individual groups. Extremely beautiful and exotic. Among the varieties obtained as a result of crossing, the most popular are LA hybrids, OT hybrids and LO hybrids with large flowers up to 25 cm in diameter for forcing.
natural views– play a key role in the creation of new varieties.

Under natural conditions, these herbaceous plants are ubiquitous in the temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere: in the Mediterranean, southeastern Central America, Japan, and China. The most widespread in the middle latitudes are Asian lily hybrids.

Lilies are one of the most beautiful representatives of the bulbous genus. They belong to the family of daylilies and are relatives of onions, hazel grouse, tulips.

Asians are descended from natural species of Siberian lilies, such as Dahurian and Tiger, and therefore are the most winter-hardy and adapted to less favorable climatic conditions. Other groups of lilies, such as oriental, tubular or curly, require more careful care.

Among Asian hybrids, the most decorative varieties are:

"Marlene" - petals of a delicate pink hue. It is famous for its abundant flowering.
"Landini" is a spectacular maroon beauty with a height of more than a meter.
"Aphrodite" - a double flower with pink petals.

Of the old and time-tested varieties, it is also worth highlighting: "Inchantment" with flowers of a rich red-orange hue, "Destin" with delicate lemon-yellow petals, "Peprike" with bright red flowers.

Worthy representatives of the Oriental group can be considered: "Mona Liza" with graceful pale pink flowers, "Tiber" with lilac flowers framed by a white border, snow-white beauty "Siberia"

Selection of planting material

When choosing planting material, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the area, since not all lilies are able to painlessly endure temperature fluctuations.

When purchasing planting material, carefully inspect the bulb: for spots and traces of rot on it. These signs indicate the defeat of the plant by diseases. The bulb should be evenly colored, the scales should fit snugly against each other.

Labeling will help determine the varietal affiliation of a plant:

The first Roman numeral denotes the lily group;
The second number indicates the position of the flower ("a" - directed upwards, "b" - to the side, "c" - down);
The letter through the fraction indicates the shape of the flower ("a" - tubular, "b" - cupped, "c" - flat, "d" - chalmoid).

Until the moment of planting, it is better to store the bulbs in a cool place, sprinkled with sand, sawdust or wet moss. Some adapt the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for this purpose.

For spring planting, choose bulbs on which sprouts have already hatched and short white roots have started to grow.

In the case when the bulb begins to germinate ahead of time, it is advisable to plant it in a flower pot, leaving it in a warm room. It is worth replanting in open ground after frost.

Choice of landing site

When planning where to place an exotic beauty on the site, you should focus on her group affiliation. Tubular, Asian and Oriental lines are most decorative only in well-lit areas.

Lilies feel comfortable in partial shade, in which adventitious roots are located on the underground part of the stem. These include varieties of the group of curly lilies. It is desirable to place them so that the basal part is shaded, and the inflorescence is illuminated by the sun's rays.

Lily is a heat-loving plant that prefers well-lit areas, securely covered with a "screen" of green foliage from gusts of wind

Lilies with large flowers look spectacular in a solo performance. When planting small-flowered lilies, in order to obtain an expressive aesthetic effect, it is better to form small groups, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Against the background of the lush foliage of other perennials, bright elegant flowers will stand out favorably, creating a magnificent picture.

For planting flowers, areas located on a slight elevation are ideal. This helps to prevent stagnant rainwater, which often causes plant damage by pathogens. Waterlogged soils are detrimental to fastidious beauties. It is possible to improve conditions on clay and heavy loamy soils by arranging drainage. To do this, lay ditches, placing them at a slight slope. The bottom of the ditches is lined with a layer of crushed brick or small gravel, sprinkled with river sand on top and covered with earth.

So that the soil near the root area of the flower is in the shade and does not overheat under the sun's rays, it is better to plant daylilies, bells and hosts in the immediate vicinity. Their spreading foliage will cover the surface of the earth, creating optimal conditions for the development of fastidious beauties.

Proper soil preparation

Proper soil is 80% of success in growing lilies. Regardless of the group affiliation of the bulbous, they all prefer to grow on rich soils.

On peat enriched and well-drained soils, varieties of the American group and oriental hybrids develop well.

The best fertilizer for lilies is humus. But it should be applied with caution: with an excess of nutrition, the plants begin to “fatten”. This provokes their slowdown in development, a decrease in resistance to diseases and a decrease in frost resistance. The optimal ratio of the introduced humus is 7-8 kg per 1 sq.m.

The introduction of weakly decomposed manure containing pathogenic microflora with pathogenic plants can have a detrimental effect on plants.

The soil for these flowering herbaceous plants must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, because in one place the plant can live from 3 to 5 years. When digging the soil, it is filled with mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are applied at the rate of 100 grams per square meter.

Since the roots of plants go quite deep, the soil is dug up before planting, deepening by 30-40 cm. To drain heavy clay soil, sand is added to its composition

Most representatives of the daylily family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soil compositions. On acidic, well-drained soil, only varieties of the eastern group feel comfortable. Asians and LA hybrids are more fond of neutral and humus soils, and tubular lilies show the greatest decorative effect on poor, slightly alkaline soil with impurities of ash and sand.

Help reduce soil acidity:

Wood ash - it is added at the rate of 150-200 g per 1 sq.m;
Chalk - when digging, 300-500 gr. are added per square meter.

Planting material processing

The bulbs are inspected before planting, discarding diseased specimens: damaged tissues are removed, rotten scales and dead roots are cut off.

The inspected material is washed under pressure for 20-30 minutes. Then, in order to prevent the development of fungal diseases, they are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate, prepared in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, and then in a solution of the drug fundazol. If necessary, they can be pickled in an insecticidal solution based on chlorophos and 1% phosphamide.

The root system of these plants dries quickly enough. Therefore, after soaking, there is no need to dry them.

Choosing a planting time

The optimal planting time is after flowering plants. This is the period from late summer to mid-autumn. When buying bulbs in early spring, planting can be done as soon as the soil thaws and dries. Late spring planting is risky because young shoots can be damaged.

Spring planting is also more suitable for late-flowering varieties, the bulbs of which are slowly formed. These include LO hybrids and varieties of the eastern group: Rio Negro, White Haven, Rialto, Marco Polo.

When planting plants, one should be guided by the rule that large bulbs with a diameter of 8-12 cm are planted to a depth of 25 cm, and small ones to a depth three times the size of the bulb itself.

The only exceptions are Halntsedonskaya, Snow White and Testaceum. They form an aboveground rosette of leaves, and therefore the soil layer above them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

When planting bulbs in heavy soil types, the bottom of the planting pits is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. To protect them from voles, wire mesh is laid out along the inner walls of the landing pit.

The bulb is laid out on the bottom of the pit, set on an impromptu sand "cushion", and the roots are straightened. They cannot be twisted and bent up. The landing site is marked with a peg and sprinkled with earth, lightly tamping. The hole is abundantly watered with settled water and covered with bark mulch.

Lilies are very sensitive to dry roots. So that the bulbs do not become weathered while the hole is being prepared, it is better to wrap them in a wet napkin or hide them in a box with wet peat. Tender young sprouts are afraid of temperature changes

To protect young sprouts, planted bulbs are covered plastic bottles with carved bottoms. For this purpose, it is better to use bottles with wide walls with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Subtleties in the care of an exotic beauty

How to care for lilies? To minimize the care of these flowering plants, you must follow a number of recommendations:

During the season, feed the plants with complex fertilizers and ash at the rate of 50 g per square meter. Top dressing is carried out in three stages: in early spring, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering. Suitable for spring root dressing: ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 l), nitroammophosphate (50 g per 10 l), fermented mullein solution in a ratio of 1:10.
Ensure timely watering. Although the lily does not like excessive moisture, it needs frequent watering on especially dry days. You need to water under the root, trying not to moisten the leaves. Accidentally falling drops of water can serve as a kind of lens, causing sunburn.
Soil mulching. Very harmful for bulbous plants and overheating of the soil, which disrupts the flow of biological processes. You can prevent this by mulching the soil natural materials light shades (cut grass, straw, sawdust).
Pest control. The lily beetle and the lily fly are dangerous for the aerial parts of plants. You can get rid of pests by collecting the larvae by hand and spraying the stems with preparations such as Thunder, Grizzly, Fly Eater.
Stem tie. Tall varieties with thin stems must be tied to supports, thereby preventing them from breaking off and lodging.
So that wilted inflorescences after flowering do not spoil the picture, they should be removed in a timely manner. Peduncles are removed at the end of the season.
After the end of the growing season, the stems of plants must be cut and burned so that in winter they do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.
For the winter, it is advisable to cover garden lilies with leafy soil, sawdust or coniferous spruce branches. Only Asian and LA hybrids do not need shelter.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, once every three years, one and a half months after the end of flowering. By this period, they had increased their mass and were gaining the greatest strength.

Slowly growing varieties of Caucasian origin are best planted only after 5-6 years. Asian varieties can be transplanted even in summer. The main thing is to dig up the plants with a garden pitchfork along with a clod of earth, preserving the root system.

When transplanting, baby bulbs are carefully separated from the stem and planted in seedling beds for growing. Immediately after planting, they are sprinkled with compost or manure humus, forming a layer 3-4 cm thick. Full-fledged bulbs will form from them in the second or third year.

Daylily - a lily for the lazy

No wonder breeders called these unpretentious and disease-resistant perennials "lilies for the lazy." And the statement that the more beautiful the flower, the more capricious it is, does not apply to this plant. Daylily grows well in any garden soil, feeling comfortable both in bright sun and in partial shade.

Not inferior in beauty to garden lilies and their closest "relatives" - daylilies, but unlike fastidious beauties, they are very easy to care for.

Planting and caring for daylilies takes a minimum of time and effort. And the plant begins to delight with flowering in the first year of planting. These perennials prefer neutral to slightly acidic soil. They are able to grow on depleted soils, but they show the greatest decorative effect on loose loams rich in organic matter. They are tolerant of infrequent watering, but like lilies, they do not tolerate stagnant water.

Perfectly combined with ornamental grasses and beautifully flowering annuals, they perfectly mask the slow departure of spring-flowering bulbs.

Daylilies can become a bright decoration of any flower garden. With the right selection of species that have different flowering periods, it will not be difficult to stretch the flowering of daylilies for the entire season.

Beautiful lilies have long been revered as divine flowers. Their pleasant aroma, amazingly beautiful buds, attract attention. On the backyard territory, flower beds, lilies are often grown. You can learn about when and how lilies are planted in open ground, the intricacies of this procedure and subsequent care from this article.

Lily growing area

Planting lilies begins with a choice good place. These flowers need a sunny site. If you plant a lily in the shade, it will not produce beautiful flowers and may begin to fade. The site for the lily should be in an open area, protected from strong winds.

It is desirable that the site be located on a hill or plain, so that after rain or irrigation, a lot of water does not accumulate in the root zone. The groundwater level must be significant. It is also advisable to make sure that the soil is well-drained. If the ground is clayey, heavy, and without drainage, the bulbs will rot.

The type of acidity depends on the type of lily. Asiatic lily grows well only on slightly acidic soil, tubular lily grows well on neutral soil, hybrids need alkaline soil, and Martagon or Oriental lilies take root on acidic soil.

Lilies cannot be grown after tulips, gladioli. The best predecessors of this culture are marigolds.

What plants does lily get along with

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Most often, lilies are planted in flower beds, on alpine lawns or flower beds, where there are many other plants. But this culture does not get along and is combined with all plants. What flowers to plant lilies with? The first step is to consider what to look for when choosing other plants.

It is desirable that lilies and neighboring flowers bloom at the same time, although often gardeners, on the contrary, plant them with crops that bloom earlier or later. Thus, a gradual flowering of the flower bed is achieved.
Lilies are planted next to plants with the same requirements for growth conditions, soil, watering, fertilizing, lighting.
It is desirable that neighboring flowers favorably emphasize the beauty of lilies. That is why they are not combined with roses, for example.
Lilies have a long, almost "naked" stem. In order for them to look harmonious in the flower garden, crops are planted nearby that will cover the leg of lilies.

And what kind of flowers are harmoniously combined with lilies:

Phloxes, especially bright varieties, look good with white lilies. And blue phloxes are beautifully combined with yellow, red and orange lilies.
Yarrow, veronica spikelet, gypsophila, pearl oyster, navel and echinacea purpurea favorably emphasize the nobility of the lily.
Openwork panicles of astilba are often planted in open ground, in the company of lilies.
Geranium hides lower part lilies. Also for these purposes, you can use nivyaniks, bells, snapdragons, cuffs, ageratum.
Against the background of delphiniums, any species and varieties of lilies look great.

You should not plant roses, daylilies next to lilies, because these flowers themselves look royal. It is also not recommended to plant several different varieties or types of lilies side by side. These flowers have a strong aroma, if they are planted nearby, a very strong smell will come from the flower garden, sometimes unbearable! These flowers are not suitable for decorating flower beds in a natural, natural style, as they look too decorative. This combination will not be organic.

It is impossible to say for sure when to plant lilies. Experts have different opinions on this matter. According to the norms, the bulbs are buried from the last days of August to mid-September. But if the rainy and cold season begins early in the fall, such bulbs will most likely simply rot in the ground without taking root.

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Lily bulbs planted in autumn can become prey for mice in winter. Therefore, valuable varieties of lilies are planted in special plastic containers to protect them from rodents.

Planting bulbs in spring is possible. If you carry out the procedure around mid-April, having insulated the soil in advance, the bulbs will wait out the spring frosts in the ground and will germinate around June. But you need to warn that for spring planting, bulbs are purchased from friends, from personal stocks or in specialized stores. There are a lot of discounted lily bulbs in the markets at this time, they may look good, but, as a rule, they are sick, damaged or dried. Such planting material will take root for a long time.

Lilies can also be planted in summer. And oddly enough, many gardeners prefer summer planting. This is especially true for planting material with a closed root system. If you buy such lilies when they already have pagons and are about to bloom, then planting in the summer - the best option. Such flowers quickly take root in a new place, bloom profusely.

Planting material preparation

Lilies can be purchased for planting in a specialized store, in the market, from friends. After the bulbs are already at home, it is necessary to inspect them from all sides for the presence of rot, pests, and damage before planting. For planting, only whole, beautiful specimens are taken.

In order for the lily to take root faster in a new place, it is pickled before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or the Maxim preparation, diluted according to the instructions. This procedure allows you to disinfect the planting material. Only after that you can land.

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Deep planting of lilies allows you to protect the plant from freezing in the fall. But if the depth is very large, germination will be delayed in the spring.

Lilies are planted in pre-fertilized soil. Each gardener regulates the amount of fertilizer independently, based on the fertility of the land, the time of the last fertilizer and other nuances. The main thing is that there should not be too much fertilizer! On average, a bucket of peat, the same amount of humus, 4 cups of wood ash, 100 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added to a square of land.

To plant lily bulbs, you need to make holes. The depth of the hole should be 3 times the height of the bulb. Some varieties have stem roots on the bulbs, in which case the planting material is deeper. Bulbs planted deep in the spring will develop more slowly, so the chance of freezing during return frosts is reduced. And in the summer, such bulbs will not suffer from a lack of water. So it is better to arrange the bulbs at a considerable depth, then there will be less problems with growing.

After the holes are made, bulbs are placed in them and covered with earth. On top of the planting, it is recommended to mulch with peat or compost to increase the nutritional value of the earth and maintain optimal moisture, friability, and soil temperature.

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To protect the bulb in the ground from ripening, during planting, river sand is poured under the bottom and the bulb is covered up to the neck with it. Only after that, the onion is covered with soil.

Outdoor lily care

Planting lilies is a very important, responsible process. But, in addition, it is worth providing the flowers with quality care, otherwise they will quickly die.

Lilies do not like an abundance of water, but the plant cannot be dried either. In drought, flowers are watered more often; in the rainy season, they stop adding water altogether. Watering is carried out under the root, since drops of water can leave burns on the petals and leaves of the plant if watering was carried out during the day. Sprinkling is carried out only on a cloudy day or in the early morning, evening.
Weeds that appear next to lilies need to be pulled out and burned in a timely manner, because they can spread diseases and pests.
Tall varieties should be tied to supports, because during flowering, they can tend to the ground.
During the year, fertilizers are applied 3 times. In the spring, a solution of ammonium nitrate (40 g / 10 l of water) is poured under the root, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering, you can fertilize with a solution of mullein or nitroammophoska (50 g / 10 l of water). Also, as fertilizers, you can choose specialized complex fertilizers for flowers or wood ash.

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Once every 3 years, it is advisable to transplant lilies to a new place.

In summer, when it gets very hot, the root zone is mulched with grass, straw or sawdust. Such mulch will protect the soil from overheating, retain moisture in the ground.
When pests appear (lily fly, lily beetle or any others), it is necessary to use insecticides "Thunder", "Flycat", "Grizzly".
All wilted inflorescences should be cut or cut off in a timely manner so that they do not spoil appearance flower garden.
After the end of the growing season, the stems are cut and burned.

For the winter, lilies are covered with leafy soil, sawdust, peat. The layer of such mulch should be about 10-25 cm so that the bulbs do not freeze in the ground.

Lilies are the most beautiful flowers. They are not difficult to grow, and they bring a lot of aesthetic pleasure. But in order for the culture to please with lush flowering, the planting of lilies is carried out according to all the rules. If you do not prepare the bulbs, soil, plant the bulbs too close to the surface of the earth, they may not take root, get sick or freeze.

The answers to the question of when to plant lilies in the spring are as brilliant as they are completely useless. Listen to a man who has planted several hundred thousand lily bulbs in ten seasons! If the question “When to plant lily tubers” will provide you with recommendations on dates and soil and air temperatures, look at this adviser silently and move away. In the case of spring planting lilies, this does not matter. practical value and I'll explain why.

When storing lily bulbs in suitable conditions, the timing of planting lilies in the spring does not matter at all.

I repeat, in our nursery for ten years we have planted a huge number of lily bulbs. Two or three hundred thousand, perhaps more. Planted at the end of April, at the end of May, at the end of June, once even at the beginning of July. I assure you, it doesn't really affect anything. Even at the time of flowering. If you plant the bulbs two months later, then flowering will come a week or two later - lilies will go through their cycle faster, they have their own biological clock and day length sensors. Therefore, the time when to plant lilies in the spring, choose a convenient time for you. And if you have other plants in critical condition or a week-long tour has turned up - do not bother, do important things. The bulbs will wait without any tangible harm to themselves. When planting lilies there really important points, but the red date of the calendar does not apply to them. The key phrase is “suitable storage conditions”

Suitable and unsuitable storage conditions for lily bulbs.

Ways to store lilies at home is the topic of a separate article. But in short, suitable conditions are those under which the bulb does not start growing. Suitable temperature range from +2 to -8C. What? Did Marvanna and Olsanna say everything would freeze over? Ignore - the whole of Holland stores in such conditions, up to two years, if necessary. But the refrigerator is just an unfortunate option - its temperature of + 5 + 8C just corresponds to the one at which the lilies uncontrollably start growing.

If the lily has already sprouted, it is better to plant it as early as possible.

The sooner the germinating bulb is in the ground, the more nutrition and strength it will retain for growth and flowering in the first year. And here, too, calendar dates and temperatures do not matter. If the earth allows you to dig, pick up a scoop and do not think about when it is better to plant a lily in the ground. Even if “snow is still whitening in the fields” (c) Save your time and energy, planting stretched lilies is a little pleasure. Even if the soil is not quite ready yet. This can be corrected later with a thick mulch layer of humus, compost, horse sawdust. Lilies love this very much and will respond to care.

What are the dates for planting lilies to plan in your gardening schedule

As already mentioned, the lily plant is plastic and indestructible. If you plan planting and other important things in the garden, then in spring lilies can be planted at any time since the soil thaws, and this will be the best option. But if you do not have time to sow carrots, re-graft an apple tree, or urgently deal with roots in poor condition, lily bulbs can wait.