Gear shifting on a bike 21. Proper gear shifting (for beginners)

For most cyclists, gear shifting does not cause any particular problems, but do not forget about novice riders, for whom this issue remains very relevant.

Let's start by looking at the gearshift device of a bicycle. The left trigger shifter is responsible for switching the forward gears on the bike, and the rear trigger shifter is responsible for shifting the rear gears. The number of speeds on your bike depends on the number of stars.

Any shifting of gears must occur on the move, that is, you must pedal. You need to select speeds not only based on the terrain on which you are moving, as well as your physical capabilities, but also so that the chain does not form distortions.

To make sure that there is no distortion, you just need to look at the chain - if the chain moves parallel to the frames of the front derailleur, then the speed you have chosen is optimal. Correct position chains and star ratio, as well as an example of chain skew, are shown in Figure 1.

Incorrect gear shifting sooner or later leads to an open circuit or breakage of the switches.

Another little secret to shifting is to tighten the lower shift levers, and not release them immediately after pressing. While pressing the lever, hold it for a while, and only then, feeling that the chain has moved to the desired sprocket, release the lever. As for the upper shift levers, they switch with one click, and do not require compression.

Shifting uphill

Beginning cyclists are often frightened by the fact that it is absolutely impossible to switch uphill. But it's not! The rules for switching uphill are simple. If you need to slow down on the front chainrings, then you should slow down the torque with the pedals, that is, make the shift as smooth as possible.

Pedaling down when shifting forward gears is necessary because the difference between the sprockets on the front transmission is usually about 10 teeth, and this requires a smooth shift. Therefore, moving uphill (and just on flat terrain), you need to slow down the torque with the pedals, then a smooth and correct switching will occur.

If moving uphill you need to shift the speed on the rear transmission, then you need to, on the contrary, increase the torque with the pedals. The only thing that you definitely should not do when going uphill is to increase the speed on the front sprockets (switch from 1 to 2, as well as from 2 to 3) You can absolutely increase and decrease the speed on the rear sprockets when going uphill without fear that something will happen to your bike.

If after switching gears you hear a clatter or other extraneous sounds, this means that the switching did not take place, and you need to squeeze the shift knob. But it can also mean that your switches need tweaking.

To be honest, you will be taught the correct gear shifting personal experience, so ride, try, train, and then you will succeed!

And remember that proper shifting is not only a guarantee of the health of your bike, but also the maximum productivity of riding in any terrain!

Back in the distant past, singspeed was the only bicycle option among the masses of the population. The happy owners of bikes felt great on smooth asphalt, but they had to adapt to rough terrain: pull the pedals up with force on the climbs, accelerate from the slopes to “take off” to the next hill, lower the tires to drive on uneven primer. Sometimes skills were no longer enough, and the cyclist left the saddle to go through an unfavorable section on foot.

Over time, everything changed: manufacturers began to produce “highly specialized” bikes in large quantities - road bikes, mountain models, hybrids, sports, etc. The former leader in the face of singlespeed has noticeably faded into the background and is bought exclusively for trips on roads and light dry primers.

Modern bicycles most are equipped with so-called speeds. The most common option is an open star-chain transmission. It is used on all types of bikes, including urban city bikes. Shifting gears on a bicycle allows the cyclist to adjust his vehicle to specific traffic conditions, as well as rationally use own forces.

The presence of speeds, of course, gives an advantage over a single-speed option, but the benefit is manifested when it is skillfully used on the road. There are simple principles that will tell you how to shift gears on a bicycle correctly and at the same time not fall down from fatigue after each ride. But even with proper operation, the speed system fails over time, so you need to be able to adjust it.

Bicycles with an open gear system are equipped with two derailleurs that are responsible for jumping the chain from one chainring to another on the drive and driven cassettes, respectively. For reference, the leading stars are the front or “connecting rod”, the driven ones are the rear ones, at the drive wheel. It turns out a small paradox, as in the numbering of stars.

The front ones are counted "from small to large." The standard cassette set is three stars. The first is the smallest, or lowest, gear. Next comes the second, middle gear and completes the system with the largest, “highest” star.

Reverse gears are considered the other way around: the largest star corresponds to the first, and the smallest - the highest gear. The number of sprockets is several times greater than the set of front ones, so several rear ones are selected for each gear in the front cassette.

The chain shifting devices are controlled by shifters on the steering wheel: left - front, right - rear. The first rule of switching to another speed is not to confuse them with each other. Chain hopping only occurs when the bike is pedaling forward. Change the gear ratio in the coast, as on planetary hub, is unacceptable.

sequentially, through each asterisk;
before entering the lift, select a gear in advance;
avoid excessive pressure on the pedals when shifting the chain.

And one more thing: we never experiment with the transmission by pedaling in the opposite direction!

Now let's touch directly on the question of how to choose gears for specific driving conditions. General rule sounds like this: on a flat road, we increase the gear to the maximum at which we can keep the right one and provide top speed movement. When driving downhill, against strong winds or off-road, we lower the gear, ensuring the bike's patency and uniform load on the legs.

The largest gear and several of the smallest ones are responsible for the highest gears in front. This position of the chain will provide the minimum acceleration time, high speed and reeling. For standard 3*7 (8) transmission systems, this would be position "3" at the front and "1" to "5" at the rear. In faster and more precise gearshift systems, the range of selectable chainrings expands.

Nothing interferes? Turn on high gears

The middle chainring is activated when small obstacles appear on the way: wind, a layer of sand on the road, gentle hills, as well as bumps in the roads. In the 3*8 system, for the second chainring, the lower limit of the rear cassette is shifted by one, and the highest by two chainrings back. Recommended positions: 2*3, 2*4, 2*5 and 2*6. The "second front, third back" chain position brings the speed bike closer to the performance of a single speed bike. Lower gears reduce speed, increasing throughput.

Mountain bikes actively use gear ratios with the chain position on the first front sprocket. The chainrings range from 6 to 8. Low gears are used in tough conditions: twisty tracks, mud, sand, bumpy dirt and steep climbs. The speed of movement is minimal, while maintaining the frequency of pedaling and load on the legs.

It is strictly not recommended to use higher front and lower rear stars, and vice versa. The abuse of such experiments will quickly destroy the stars, the circuit and the very expensive switches. In general, chain skew between the front and rear cassettes is present even in the normal position, so aggravating it is more expensive for yourself.

How to (left) and not (right) to put the chain

If we talk about sensations, then a cyclist with the wrong position of the chain will feel one discomfort from a high-speed bike. Correct use gear ratios- the key to successful skating and a long service life of the transmission mechanism!

Adjustment of the derailleur of the leading stars

Over time, the chain shift worsens, the gears switch poorly, or even fail altogether. Since there are few stars in front, it is simply impossible not to notice a malfunction.

If the problem of a tight chain jump or its absence is caused only by an upset switch, then it is quite possible to save the situation on your own. Why is the switch not working properly? The main reasons include:

mismatch of the gear with the planes of the stars;
poor drive cable tension;
switch is loose.

As practice shows, these problems do not come one at a time, so everything will have to be adjusted at once, and not just, say, the cable tension.

At the first stage, we wipe the body of the device, as well as the sprockets and the chain from adhering dirt and dust. We check the bolts of the switching device housing, tighten it to the stop if necessary. Important: setting up a loose switch does not make sense!

Next, we find the screws "L" and "H" - the position adjusters of the crank gear. Weaken them, but do not unscrew them completely. Our task is to tighten them in such a way as to achieve the coincidence of the gear with the planes of the extreme stars.

L adjustment:

We switch the chain to position "1" in front and "maximum" in the back. If the system works very poorly, the chain is installed manually.
By tightening the adjusting screw, achieve complete coincidence of the shifter gear with the plane of the first chainring. Deviation up to 1.5 mm is not critical.
Loosen the cable fixing nut, tighten it a little.

Front derailleur setting H:

Set the chains in reverse position: "maximum" in front, "1" - in the back. For a 3*8 system, these will be "3" and "1", respectively.
Tighten screw H until the shifter matches the big star.
Tighten the cable in this position.

From top to bottom: cable fixing bolt, L and H adjusters

When limits are set, the chain flip should recover. If the screws are clearly set, and the system does not work well, we try to tighten or loosen the cable. How to determine? The gears go tight from higher to lower - tighten, on the contrary - loosen the tension.

Setting up the rear gear system

Next stage– adjust the chain travel on the rear stars. Most often, it is there that problems are observed, and not by chance: there are more stars, plus a tensioner. To begin with, carefully clean the mechanism of dirt.

Checking the cock and bolts.
Gear limit adjustment, cable tightening.
Selection of the optimal chain tension.

A bent rooster needs to be replaced. At the same time, it is checked whether the switch is loose.

Setting limits for L and H:

Loosen both screws.
Throw the chain to the highest (smallest) star (front to maximum).
Tighten bolt "H" until the selector roller is aligned with the star in the same plane.
Engage first gear (the largest, and in front - first).
By turning the screw "L" to achieve the coincidence of the roller with the star.
Check switching accuracy.
Tighten or loosen the drive cable. We determine according to the same principle as with the front derailer.

Scheme for setting the extreme limit on L

Are the gears not shifting quickly, are the limits set correctly, and is the cable tight? Then it's time to work with the chain tensioner. We find special screws "A" and "B". The first adjusts the position of the frame relative to the smallest, and the second adjusts the position of the largest star.

The adjustment is carried out according to the principle: switching to the appropriate gear and tightening the screw. Turning knob "A" increases the preload force by raising the frame to the highest sprocket. On the contrary, screw "B" lowers it to the large sprocket. An incorrectly set tension makes it impossible to easily select the desired gear: a chain that is too loose can hang in the space between the sprockets, and an overtightened one can break due to excessive tension.

Periodic Adjustment of Switches speed bike considered the norm. It will bring invaluable benefits at a time when the chain and cassettes are in good condition. Adjusting the gearshift system, in combination with the rules for using when cycling, will significantly increase the resource of all components of the transmission, as well as use its resources to the maximum.

The ability to choose the right speed while riding a bicycle is a skill necessary not only for athletes in competitions, but also for everyday riding for anyone whose bike is equipped with a speed switch. Correct shifting contributes to a more comfortable ride, allows you to achieve high speeds and allows you not to overload individual groups muscles and joints to maintain and develop speed, the sprocket chain and other transmission units will last much longer.

Why do you need to change gears?

The greatest load during cycling falls on the knee. The human knee joint is designed in such a way that the viscosity of the fluid it contains is higher when pedaling slowly, which creates additional resistance to the joint. If the selected gear forces you to pedal very quickly, this also puts extra stress on the joint. Strong overloads can lead to joint problems in the future. The frequency with which it is necessary to pedal, or as it is called "cadence", is within 100 rpm.

Of course, when driving, you do not need to count the number of revolutions. The main factor in choosing the right gear is the feel of the ride. Maintain speed on flat surface should be carried out with minimal effort on the pedals, and at the same time, the speed of rotation should allow you to breathe evenly. With experience, you will get a good feel for the bike and gear selection on many surfaces and at all speeds will be automatic.

How to shift gears correctly

Gear shifting should be carried out only on the go. The derailleur guides the chain to the corresponding gear selected, after which the chain gradually moves to the new position. In order for the shifting system to last longer, it is necessary that the chain is not under load before changing gear. Until the chain is fully seated in the new gear, you should also not apply excessive force to the pedals.

When shifting gears, there should not be any very noticeable sounds, in most cases this will mean that either the shift is not performed correctly, or the bike needs e. Before a sharp uphill, it is better to select a gear in advance, because during the climb, at low speed, make this would be quite problematic. You should not shift several gears at once, it is better to do this in sequential shifting, with a complete chain transition in each gear.

What gear combinations are best to use

Modern bikes are equipped with 2-3 sprockets in the front and have 7-10 sprockets in the back. The numbering of the front stars starts from small to large, rear - from large to small. Accordingly, a combination of 1-1 allows you to start moving at high resistances, for example, uphill, a combination of 3-10 to maintain and develop the maximum possible speed. When shifting gears, it is necessary to adhere to such combinations of stars in order to prevent a large chain distortion.

In practice, 3rd gear is switched in smooth asphalt conditions, at good speed, without a noticeable headwind. Reverse gear, at the same time, must be at least fourth.

The second forward gear is used in worse conditions, it can be a primer, bad asphalt, windy weather, a slight surface relief. Reverse gear should be used in the range from 2 to 6-8, depending on the total.

The first gear is used when climbing a hill, passing marshland, sand, mud, snow. Reverse gear is used from 1 to 5-7, depending on the total.

A common but decreasing misconception is that more speeds are better.

You have to ask yourself which is better? Or who is better?

Today you can find solutions from 1 to 33 speeds. In a variety of combinations: 1x7, 1x11, 2x9, 3x10 (the first number is the number of stars in front, the second number is the number of stars on the back of the cassette). By multiplying these numbers, you get the maximum number of speeds that you can "turn on" while riding.

What does "shift" mean?

Gear shifting is the transfer of a chain from one star to another. This changes the gear ratio and effort "on the pedals".

Why does a bike need speed?

First of all, for comfort. Gears make it possible to save energy and choose a convenient pedaling mode based on:

The relief of the road (flatness, ascent or descent, acceleration or smooth braking);
The quality of the road surface (highway, country road, mountains);
Required speed;
Weather (tailwind or headwind);
The physical condition of the rider.

With the right gears:

Faster and more economical (in terms of physical strength) move around;
Get a longer service life of the bike components;
Reduce stress on knee joints.

You can also go faster down hills, climb hills with less effort, or ride at a comfortable, consistent speed.

How many speed transmissions are there?

Behind the cassette, if the bike is multi-speed, usually from 5-11 sprockets. So transmissions are 7/8/9/10/11 speed.

If the bike has 6-7 speeds, then it has one front star (gear) and a rear cassette for 6-7 stars. If 18 or more, it costs 3 front sprockets and a rear cassette for 6-7 sprockets. Sometimes rear cassettes come with 9-10-11 stars, which allows you to bring the number of speeds to 27-30.

The front is usually 1 to 3 stars.

Why did everyone want to make more speeds before?

It was believed, not unreasonably, that the greater the gear ratio on a particular bike, the more accurate the gear can be selected for a specific terrain. It really is.

However, today they still came to the conclusion that you can get by with fewer sprockets on a bicycle. This greatly saves weight, as the extra stars in the front and the front derailleur are removed.

Why doesn't the chain fall off one sprocket in front?

Development recent years- special Narrow Wide chainring with variable and higher teeth section, as well as a special rear derailleur that dampens all bumps. All this combined eliminates the need for a chain guide on the front sprocket.

How much does it all cost?

The trend is that the higher the transmission class - from 7 to 11 speed, the more expensive it is.

7-9 speed put on the most affordable bikes;
10 speed can be found on middle class bikes;
11 and even 12 speed versions are found on professional models.

The more stars in the cassette, the closer they become to each other and the chain will be thinner. From this, the price of such a product will be higher, and the durability will be lower.

In the photo 10 and 11 speed cassette.

What do the numbers mean in the description of the 48x36x26T transmission?

They mean the number of teeth on the sprockets. If you are a beginner, then the information is almost useless for you, since there is nothing to compare with. But if you are already an experienced cyclist, you can choose a new transmission or bike according to your preferences based on the experience of previous bikes.

How to change gears on a bike

If you want your chain and sprockets to last as long as possible, it is recommended to shift at the moment of minimum load. Let's explain - switching in the middle of the rise puts a very strong load on the transmission, which is why situations are possible up to a switch breakage or a circuit break.

Also try to shift ahead of time and avoid excessive chain skew.

Gear shift failures.

After a while of riding, whether you lube the chain or not, the drivetrain may need attention. The chain may stop shifting perfectly like it did at the very beginning. Problems may be as follows:

The gearshift cable has stretched - you need to tighten it with a special lever on the shifter or switch;
The cable jacket has accumulated too much dirt - it is better to replace it with the cable;
The rear derailleur is not adjusted - adjustment is required, better in the workshop.

What types of steering wheel switches are there?

They change gears with special handles on the steering wheel - shifters. They are:

rotational - switching speeds occurs by turning the knob;
- (revoshift and grip-shift, gripshift) - when the handle is rotated towards you or away from you, the speed is switched.

lever - gears are switched by special levers.

Typically, the left shifter is responsible for shifting the three front gears, and the right shifter is responsible for shifting sprockets in the rear cassette. Thus, the left shifter and chainrings are used to adjust to the main type of terrain. And the right one is for private and short-term changes during the trip.

What is "cadence"?

More professionally speaking, changing gears changes cadence. Cadence is the frequency of pedaling and the required pressure force on them, achieved by changing the gear ratio between the wheel and the pedals. Cadence is important in terms of strength and health benefits in order to evenly distribute the energy expended on pedaling.

The optimal cadence is considered to be in the region of 60-100 rotations per minute.

If you are riding uphill or over uneven terrain, you need to put in a lot of effort to pedal, which, for a long time, threatens with arthritis. By turning on a low speed, you will make it easier for yourself to pedal, reduce the load on your muscles and joints, but the bike will go slower.

On a flat track or when descending a mountain, it is necessary to turn on a high speed, then more effort will be required to pedal (compared to models without speeds or another gear), but the two-wheeled horse will become faster, more stable, will move smoother and more stable.

So how many speeds do you need to be happy?

In fact, shifting gears on a bicycle is a trainable art that also depends on physical condition rider, and from long-term training, and from the design of a particular bike. Let's take a look at the different factors in this article.

Mechanics

First of all, the correct switching depends on the design of the bike. Previously, there were no problems with switching, since there were no speeds on most bikes. All obstacles were overcome with the help of the power of the rider or on foot. To understand how to shift gears, you should study the design of the shift system itself.

speeds and stars

The first derailleur bikes were models like the Tourist, the mass heir to the sport bikes of the 70s. They did not have a front derailleur, but the cassette allowed you to choose one of four speeds.

Over time, the number of available speeds has grown, and now bicycles with 18, 21, 24 and 27 values are already becoming the de facto standard. Usually this is a combination of 3 stars on the front derailleur and 6-9 on the rear, in a combination of 3 and 7 stars you get 21 speeds. Some high-speed models have already acquired 10 stars on, but so far this is a rarity.

Actually, "speed" is a star, and the total gear ratio is obtained from a combination of current stars selected by the front and rear derailleurs.

Switch mechanics

Correct switching does not require much knowledge. Almost all bicycle models are equipped with a cable that brings the force from the shifter - the control element of the derailleur - to the derailleur itself.

When the cable is pulled, the derailleur frame moves and transfers the chain to a larger diameter star, when released, it falls off or moves to smaller stars. These actions are performed without auxiliary mechanisms, using the flexibility of the chain and friction with the switch frame, i.e. the chain and all elements are under load; they are not provided for in the normal operation of the transmission. Because of this, a recommendation appears not to switch gears under load or without movement.

Correct combinations

Despite the fact that nominally there can be 27-30 speeds in the transmission, i.e. combinations of sprockets, not all of them are recommended to be used, as they are dangerous for bicycle mechanisms. Why is this happening? Not all sprockets are in the same plane, which means that when they are combined, the chain is loaded at a slight angle, which causes additional friction and, as a result, bending of the links, then chain stretching and subsequent damage to both the chain and sprockets.

The basic rule is the approximate parallelism of the chain to the plane of the stars, without distortions. In numbers, for the classic this moment 24 speed mountain bike, the value on the rear derailleur must be between double and triple the value on the front derailleur, with some exceptions at the edges, such as 1-1 combinations. Those. out of 24 options, it is recommended to use the following speed switching scheme:

On 3 - the largest front star - rear speeds are 6, 7, 8.
On a 2 star - rear 6,5,4.
On 1 star - rear 1,2,3.

Of course, these rules can be violated depending on the conditions, but they have already become a generally accepted standard.

cadence

Consider physical training cyclist.

Cadence is the cadence at which a cyclist rides. A stable cadence is ideal for long journeys, i.e. if the pedals spin evenly throughout the journey, and uneven terrain, headwinds are compensated using speed combinations.

But if endurance is only important for long distances, then at any time you should keep in mind the health of the joints and muscles. Many novice riders overload their knees, putting out maximum force with each turn of the cranks. This not only tires and damages the muscles, but if repeated for a long time, it will affect health. knee joint. Professionals use stable and frequent movements without serious stress on the legs. This mode is the safest for both the cyclist and the bike.

Training and preparation

To prepare for riding at the beginning of the day or season, it is recommended to use lower gears. For the first 10-20 minutes of a long ride, the legs need a "warm-up", for which a cadence of 60 rpm (movements per minute) and a minimum load are ideal - i.e. speeds with 1 and 2 chainrings.

A similar recommendation in more globally– The first hundred kilometers of the season, especially mountain biking, should be covered in low gears so that the legs “remember” the skills and are not damaged by too serious changes in the daily load.

Other principles

When it comes to shifting gears, these are almost always standard switches, but there are other models, for example, and “hello” from the automotive world - automatic transmissions.

City bikes and designer choppers usually do not have a front derailleur, but they do have a rare thing in the cycling world - a planetary hub, when the gear and shift system is packed into a single closed mechanism installed inside the wheel. This principle is used in cars, but it does not find much recognition among cyclists, it absorbs too much energy (up to 10%).

On the other hand, the planetary hub does not have any mechanical factors limiting shifting - you can shift gears both under load and at the “inappropriate” moment. The mechanism will work properly.

Planetary hub and disc brake

Automatic switching

Of course, manufacturers do not live comfortably in a stable market, and they are looking for new areas of application for the talents of their engineers. So, for a long time, the top firms Shimano and SRAM have been producing automatic gearboxes in small batches, where with the help of electronic sensors (Shimano Nexis, Auto, etc.) they switch speeds in the planetary hub.

There are also rare models with automatic gear shifting on a mechanical basis - the rotational speed is determined by the centrifugal force of the load, which is why the mechanism changes the gear ratio.

Conclusion

In conclusion, you can make a short list of theses, according to which, even before gaining the proper experience, you can switch quite carefully and correctly using the following speed switching rules:

switch only while driving and without serious load;
control the bike with the transmission, and not with muscle effort;
switch early rather than at the last moment, or when "it got too hard";
shift gears one at a time and in turn front and rear;
do not deviate from normal asterisk combinations;
keep the bike clean and prevent heavy wear of parts.