How to put a fender on a speed bike. How to install fenders on a bike: step by step instructions

Believe it or not, attitudes towards such a simple accessory as bicycle fenders are one of the main points of contention in cycling forums.

On the one hand, there are bike fetishists and “jasportsmen” who joined them, claiming that the guards spoil the appearance and aerodynamics of the bike, on the other hand, ordinary riders who cannot imagine riding in our climate without this useful addition.

Despite the fact that I have moved away from fetishism, I must admit that I remain in the first category. 🙂 I still can’t calmly look at a road bike or a mountain bike with full-size wings. As for aerodynamics, the argument always seemed far-fetched to me, but the deterioration appearance- on the face. I understand everything with my mind, but I can’t accept it with my heart. 🙁

But I am already a spoiled person, so I recommend to my readers, who are only at the beginning of their cycling career, not to believe the dogmas promoted on the forums. The most important thing is practicality and expediency.

Riding a bike in our climate without wings is always a lottery, how many times I came back soaking wet and dirty only because the rain had begun to wet the ground in the forest. However, fetish-minded citizens are content to look like Paris-Roubaix racers.

In this article, I am not campaigning either for or against bicycle shields - this is an absolutely master's business. In the end, everyone will have to get wet (or not get wet), so the choice is yours. I’ll just note that you shouldn’t aggressively defend your point of view on forums or general rides, no matter which side you are on this issue.

Let's go over the main arguments of the opponents of bicycle fenders.

1. Excess weight. In one of my articles, I expressed my attitude towards, but in short - no need to engage in nonsense. In relation to the wings, this means that in our time everything good options shields have perfectly acceptable weight categories. Metal as a material is long gone.

2. Aerodynamics are deteriorating. In my opinion this item could only be used in racing with separate start where every second counts. In conventional rides, at normal speeds, the effect of wings on aerodynamics is negligible. For those who really feel the negative effect, I can only advise you to exercise more and eat more.

3. Deteriorating appearance. I can’t argue with anything here - for me, the wings on a bicycle are disgusting, and I can’t do anything about it. I will only note that I am talking about sports bikes, on city bikes and touring, the shields look quite harmonious.

4. Wings won't protect you from the rain, you'll still be wet. Sounds reasonable, but only in case of a downpour. However, most of the time we get some light rain, which is not a problem as the cycling uniform dries before our eyes. It is quite another matter when the flow of water from rear wheel beats gently in the sirloin, soaking the diaper. Riding with a wet diaper is a rather unpleasant occupation, and on many saddles it is painful. I'm not talking about possible ones.

I recommend that anyone who rides city bikes, touring bikes and other utility bikes, put on full-size fenders and close this issue. On this type of two-wheeled transport, there are always fasteners - these are holes for the bolts on the dropouts (near the wheel axles), on top of the fork and on the top stays of the frame at the back.

The width of the shield should completely cover the tire. Important point— Mudguards, without them, the water from the front wheel will wet the shoes. You can not philosophize and buy the cheapest fenders that you can find in the nearest bike shop.

Now let's move on to sports bikes. There are many easy-to-release solutions that can help a rider in rainy weather.

Fenders for mountain bikes

Full-length wings, in addition to looking wild and unsportsmanlike, are unacceptable for mtb due to dirt clogging the gaps between the tread and the shield itself. Therefore, if you use your bike for its intended purpose, then I can recommend a good kit that I use myself:

Front fender
rear fender , I recommend taking the version for niners, even if you have 26″
Shield on the lower tube of the frame , protects against splashes from below the front wheel.

By the way, you can do without the front wing, if you use this exotic thing . It will intercept the spray that is thrown by the front wheel forward, picked up by the oncoming air flow and sent to the face of the cyclist.

This piece of neoprene really works, tested on myself. Of course, it protects worse than a fender, but if you don’t want to spoil the look of a fetish bike, this thing is for you.

Mudguards for road bikes and hybrids

Here, the issue of appearance is even more important than in the case of mountain bikes. There is a very elegant option that almost does not disfigure the highway - Crud Road Racer Mk2 . Personally, I have not had time to get it yet, but a road friend recommended it to me.

The system is easily removable and adaptive, such fenders are almost invisible on a bicycle. According to my friend, they protect against water perfectly.

Alternatively, you can put the classic SKS Race Blade . I put these on a hybrid, with the onset of the rainy season in our Estonia. The design is also easily removable, the impressions of several years of operation are positive.

______________________________________

In general, think with your head, do not take other people's dogmas on faith. If you think that full-size fenders should always be on your bike, then so be it, and send all the arguments of fetishists about appearance (like mine) away.

To ride comfortably, take care, which I advised recently, it seems that even discounts are still valid. Rain outside the window is not at all a reason to put the bike in a stall, the main thing is to properly equip yourself.

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Need wings on a bike or not - everyone decides for himself. For example, a bicycle without wings is not interesting to me. Washing all my clothes after every bike ride is not for me.

Most fenders made for mountain bikes are purely decorative and do not protect against splashes or mud. For protection, full-length wings are needed. These are the ones I purchased. Specifically Flinger SW-FE-115F/R 27.5″. Not because they're super-duper, but just picked the cheapest full-size fenders for 27.5-inch wheels that were sold in local stores. The width is 65mm, which barely covers the 2.25 stock tires on my bike, and more than covers the 2.0 tires.

In the store, the wings did not inspire confidence, but after the purchase, I climbed onto the website of the SunnyWheel manufacturer and found this picture:

The last picture intrigued me. Usually glossy wings like these break from a slight bend, but here someone bends the wing in half, and it does not break. I ventured to do this with my wing. It bent the same way as in the picture, and unbent, while at the place of the bend there was not even a trace left! So the quality of these wings is pretty good.

Eat different types rack mounts. Pictured is metal. My wings are plastic. They allow you to slightly adjust the length of the rack within 2 cm and supposedly disconnect themselves in problem cases (apparently, if something gets between the wheel and the wing or racks).

Attaching the wings to the frame.

Mounting problems started from the very beginning. My frame doesn't have holes for attaching full size fenders! The steel posts and their fastening to the fenders are made in such a way that the loop goes straight to the wheel axle. Apparently, the manufacturer assumed that the axle is threaded through the loops and tightened along with the wheel. But it can't be done on my bike. First, the left and right sides are asymmetrical there. The side with the rooster is flat, and you can somehow install a loop there, and the other side is curly, and an attempt to clamp the loop of the uprights there leads to the fact that the uprights are not standing vertically, but at an angle, moving away from the wing to the side. In addition, the hinges of the racks are thick, and it is impossible to tighten the wheel with them, the nut simply does not tighten the entire length of the thread, which greatly affects safety. Another problem was that just in the place of these loops there are springs that center the coupler, but these springs do not pass through the diameter of the loops, they simply chew there. Therefore, this mounting option had to be discarded. The racks could not reach the hole for attaching the trunk in any way, since it is too far from the wheel axis, to which the racks should ideally go. There are no other holes, and there are no holes on the fork at all, except for the one on the gorilla, so I had to be smart.

Abandoned furniture was found in a local dump. There were aluminum corners screwed to chipboard panels. I unscrewed them, they are very light, their weight is practically not felt in the palm of your hand (much lighter than steel products). From one corner of the grinder, I made four adapters, drilling two holes in each in the right places:

An important point. Although the axle of the wheel is smaller in diameter, a large hole was drilled so that the spring could move freely in it, otherwise when installing the wheel it turns out to be garbage. The shape of the adapter at the large hole should be such that from the side where the seat for the nut is not flat, the adapter can lie flat (parallel to the wheel) and does not bulge to the side. A small hole is drilled for the diameter of the bolt, which is at hand for attaching the rack hinge to the adapter. I sawed off the bolts to the minimum required size so as not to interfere with the movement of the chain and cassette, I used washers on both sides.

The bicycle in the photos is turned upside down, as the photos were taken during the mounting of the fenders.

Since the loop is displaced from the center of the wheel by a few centimeters, the racks will have to be filed a few centimeters, one more, the other less. I sawed on the basis that there was 3.5 cm between the wheel and the wing. There is no point in doing more, since the frame restricts the movement of the wing from the front side. Doing less is dangerous, as dirt adhering to the wheel can rub against the fender and make it difficult to move. You can always saw off more and reduce the gap, but you can’t increase the racks anymore, so it’s better to start with a larger gap and, if necessary, reduce it later (if the wings do not catch dirt).

Plastic fasteners are screwed to the wing with complete self-tapping screws, and steel racks are tightened by hand with a plastic nut. The gap between the wing and the tire is sufficient.

But the mount of the racks is initially quite close to the wheel (about 1 cm). On wide tires this can be a serious problem. So, Rapid Rob 2.25 lie almost close to these plastic mounts. On bumps, they will probably scratch with protruding "cubes". When mounting the front fender, I found a simple solution (read below), with 2.0 everything became normal, but for 2.25 I still would not advise buying these fenders, or you will have to make homemade strut mounts (more widely spaced with outside wings).

At the rear wing, in addition to double steel struts, there are two more mounts. One - at the height of the trunk through the plastic half-clamp included in the kit. There is an unthreaded hole on the frame in this place, so the bolt and nut for this fastening must be selected by yourself. Another - at the very bottom - the hole on the wing is aligned with the hole in the frame and is tightened with a bolt that is not included in the kit. The thread in the frame is already cut. There were no problems with the fastening itself in these places, but the fender pinched the front derailleur, and it did not switch. I had to fiddle to move the fender away from the derailleur closer to the wheel. In my case, a plastic gasket and a few washers between the fender and the frame helped.

As for the front wing. The top mount is attached to the hole in the gorilla. To be honest, when buying a bike, I was looking for one that has this hole, since many forks now do not have such a hole, and there one more home-made mount needs to be wiser. But there are no holes for attaching the fender struts on my fork. The original idea was the same - to make adapters from the wheel axle. There is also a non-flat seat for the nut, so I had to fill it with additional washers of the appropriate thickness. To be honest, I don’t really like that something is hung on the wheel axle. The main disadvantage of such a mount is that the wheel cannot be removed without twisting the nut and without removing everything that is on the axle from the axle, while small centering springs can easily be lost, especially if the wheel is removed in the field. But on the rear wheel, I don’t see any alternatives yet, but on the front I will try to make clamps on the fork to free the axle from foreign inserts. Maybe clamps are less aesthetically pleasing, but more “correct” 😉 But so far I haven’t found beautiful plastic clamps, and I don’t want to make a tractor out of a bicycle, sculpting heavy steel water clamps on it, so for now I ride with my aluminum adapters:

The problem of the proximity of the strut mount to the tire on the front wheel turned out to be more noticeable than on the rear. On the front wing there is not a double rack, but a single one, so at the slightest vibration the wing began to “play” on the sides, and these plastic things hit the side teeth of the tire. Neither one nor the other benefit from this, of course. The only thing I came up with was to bend the post in the place where it fits the plastic fasteners as shown in the photo. After that, the distance between the tire and the rack increased, the wing was fixed more rigidly, and nothing catches on anything. It turned out quite practical, so I also arched the racks on the rear wheel, moving them as far as possible from the wheel.

At first it seemed to me that the front fender was not low enough to protect the legs from mud. In practice, no problems were noticed. When riding through puddles, the feet remain clean. As if by the will of fate, a few weeks later I found a rubber mudguard (branded) rolled into the sand on a forest road, which ideally fit into my fender, but since I often have to moose in the forest, drag the bike through fallen trees, I decided not to put it on yet, because it is during forest loss that you understand why the wing ends exactly where it ends. If it were a little lower, it would cling to everything.

For comparison, the width of the wing and the width of the Schwalbe Hurricane Performance 2.0 tire:

Well, to complete the review, a photo with wings. I can't help but notice that the thin steel struts still don't provide rigidity, and the fenders are rather wobbly. They have not come into contact with the wheels yet, but it's still unpleasant. Ideally, you should strive to look at the wings so that these racks are as short as possible, but, alas, this is not always possible. You can click on the photo to see an enlarged image.

Tests in the real world.

On purpose, of course, I didn’t climb into the mud, but circumstances developed in such a way that I had to overcome several flooded areas, and decided to take a photo for this article at the same time. The result made me quite happy. I left the viscous mud absolutely clean, I didn’t even get my shoes dirty. But Schwalbe Hurricane Performance barely coped with the task. According to my feeling, about 80% of the forces expended on pedaling were wasted, that is, the wheels simply scrolled in place, barely supporting movement. If it weren't for the fenders, the rear wheel would definitely spit dirt all over my back. It's amazing how I got out of the creek shown in the fourth photo at all. The exit from it was viscous and very slippery, the wheels were strongly sucked in, during rotation they scrolled in vain. If the swamp were a couple of meters longer, we would have to dismount right into this mud. However, I will not absolutely scold Hurricane. Firstly, they are not mud, but road, and the fact that they can pull out of a quick slippery swamp with their few teeth located only on the side is, as it were, even a plus compared to a classic road tire, which is generally useless for such places. Secondly, last year I had similar problems in these places on the toothy Rapid Rob - they also slipped noticeably, only less. As for the wings, they justify themselves. The fenders do not prevent dirty wheels from spinning, but keep both the rider and the bike itself clean. The only thing I don't like about these fenders in particular is that the steel struts aren't stiff enough. Because of them, the front fender seems to vibrate from side to side on bumps, sometimes creating strange sounds like rattling.

Application. Fastening the front fender with clamps.

There is such a method, to fix the clamps on the fork, and to attach the wing racks to them. My fork diameter is 39mm and fits perfectly with 1 1/4″ (38-44mm) plumbing clamps, with rubber grommets and a welded nut on one side. A bolt can be screwed into the nut, threaded through the loop of the wing rack. They are sold inexpensively (32 rubles apiece) in some Leroy Merlin stores (in which ones - see their website). Disadvantages - unaesthetic "tractor" look and awesome weight, but if there is nothing better, you can put up with it. They also sell lighter and nicer stainless steel clamps, 60 rubles per pair, diameter 30-45 mm, but you still need to make a mount for the wing rack yourself. In general, at your leisure you can play with them, maybe something will work out. Theoretically, neat plastic clamps should be sold somewhere for precisely these purposes, but I have not found them anywhere, and if they are still somewhere, the price for them may turn out to be bleak.

The wings are still on the bike. I did not install clamps, I left it as it was originally assembled. In general, I am satisfied with the wings, but I want to note one feature. Pine cones. If you drive along a road covered with bumps, they are somehow tightened between the wheel and the wing, and the very protection that I wrote about at the beginning of the article works. The wing is detached from the racks using a plastic connector. According to the manufacturer's idea, this connector is disconnected and then snapped back by hand, and in fact it usually is, but, unfortunately, during the season I have already broken two such connectors with the help of cones - the thin antennae of the clip break off there and they simply stop being fixed. The wing starts to fly out of the latch on each bump, rattles and interferes with movement, so this situation is very annoying on a long journey. Of course, when I got home, I just filled all these connectors with superglue and they no longer disconnect, but for those who are not familiar with this problem, you should keep this in mind. After gluing all the quick-release fasteners with superglue, I no longer had problems with bumps.

Imagine that you have bought a beautiful mountain bike. And on the first sunny day, we decided to test the novelty to the fullest, having gathered with friends for a picnic a few tens of kilometers from the city. And everything would be fine, but the weather changed to rain, and when you tried to go faster, the entire back began to be covered with a thick layer of mud. Then you decide that tomorrow you will install fenders for a bicycle and will no longer tolerate it.

Does your bike need this kind of protection?

Wings are installed not only to protect clothing from dirt, but also to protect components from excessive clogging.

Many mechanics and advanced riders oppose the installation of mudguards on sports bikes. Despite the fact that they will to some extent protect the rider from dirt on the back, this is still an extra knot, which means - excess weight and additional service issues. Therefore, it is up to you to decide on the installation of fenders for a bicycle.

Choosing wings: types

Mudguards, like other bicycle parts, there are a huge number of varieties:

1. The most common are full-size wings. The oldest type that appeared with the release of the first bicycles.
2. Sports. They are made of flexible plastic, which saves them until the mount bursts. Designed for installation on mountain bikes with 24-29" wheels. Quality models generally perform their function and look quite stylish.
3. There are sports swamps-shields to protect the frame from dirt. They are a small shield made of plastic (about 15-25 cm), which protects only the stem itself from dirt and steering column. This type of fenders for a bicycle is very popular among mountain bikers and newer hardtails, which do not have any dedicated bar mounts on the fork. A similar bog is also installed on the seat tube to protect the bottom bracket and shock absorber.

Decide on the size

Wings for a bicycle are selected depending on:

• wheel size;
• tire width;
• frame type.

Most fenders are universal, i.e. they can be installed on wheels 24/26/27.5/28/29 at the same time. Retractable wings are also found in nature, but as practice shows, this design is not very successful. The wider the wheels, the wider the bog, and the wider the bog, the better the protection. The standard width is about 60 mm. Fat bikes are usually not protected.

Mounting fenders on a bicycle also has several varieties. Rear:

• On the seatpost/tube.
• On a specially dedicated jumper on the frame and arc. Suitable only for frames that support this feature.
• With the help of an eccentric seat clamp.

Front fender mounting types:

• On the stem with a spacer nut.
• On the gorilla or the crown of the fork and arc. For rigid forks only.
• Fork legs with straps.

Bikes that cannot be fitted with fenders

There are very few such models. Basically, these are just frames of the last century with a very abstruse design, as well as narrowly targeted and bikes special purpose. It also happens that it is possible to install fenders on a bicycle, but it is not recommended to do this. For example, in such cases:

• Your bike has a rear shock absorber. For this, a maximum carriage shield will do.
• Your bike belongs to some sports discipline where the swamp is not needed. This is usually BMX, trial, highway, street.
• There is no attachment point or it is occupied by something else.

In all other cases, you can install swamps.

Sports wings

Sports fenders are usually made of plastic and have a maximum of two attachment points. Mounting wings on a bicycle can be done at home and even in the field. Varieties of mounting the rear swamp can be as follows:

• Clamp on Can be produced both with a plastic adapter and with a fabric tape, which is more versatile, but may begin to move out over time. An improperly fixed and adjusted wing will constantly drop onto the wheel. Requires a hex key/screwdriver for installation.
• The seat clamp brace is not a very popular, but cheap type of attachment that is becoming less and less common. It has a conventional bracket with two lugs for an eccentric. It is clamped by it, additional tools are not required.

Installation of a sports bog

It should be understood that all swamps are different, so it will not work to tell how all models and types are mounted. To install both boggers, we need a 4a hex key and / or a screwdriver (depending on the type of wings), for older models - a 10 mm open-end wrench and 15 minutes of free time.

The process of mounting the rear wing is as follows:

• Cut off the label and plastic ties, if any.
• We wipe the place of attachment from dirt.
• We unscrew the bolts of the clamp and disassemble it.
• We put a rubber gasket into the clamp and tighten it on the seatpost. It is not necessary to tighten the bolts to the end, it may be necessary to readjust the position a little.
• Next, we attach the leaf of the swamp itself.
• We adjust the position and tighten all the bolts to the end.

Mounting the front bog with mounting in the fork stem:

• We remove the front wheel.
• We assemble the spacer adapter in accordance with the instructions, if it has not been assembled earlier.
• We connect the mounting hole and the adapter with a bolt.
• We insert the spacer plug into the stem hole and tighten it to the maximum, having previously aligned it perpendicular to the fork.
• We return the wheel to its place.

Mudguards for touring bikes

Full-length bicycle fenders are plastic or metal arches that cover the wheel about half way horizontally. Can be fastened with two or one arc. On the market you can find universal models that are adjustable in height to provide maximum protection against dirt.

These bicycle fenders cover at least a quarter of the wheel and protect very well from dirt. Mounted on touring and hybrid bikes with tires no wider than 1.95”, but there are also models for mountain bikes.

Let's assume that your frame and fork allow the installation of boggers. In this case, you will need a screwdriver and / or a 10 mm wrench. To screw the arches - a wrench for 8 or a hexagon for 4. Attaching the front fender is very simple:

1. Brace the front fender against the hole in the fork crown or on the gorilla if the fork has a shock absorber.
2. Insert the mounting bolt from the kit, washer and screw on the nut. If there is a thread in the gorilla, then just screw on the bolt.
3. As you can see, the arcs have almost fallen into place, and they only need to be tightened. All modern forks have threaded lugs for bows. So just screw both arcs.
4. Adjust the height of the bog so that it is as low and close to the tire as possible, without touching it.
5. Tighten the bolts to the end.

Installing the rear mudguard

The rear fender on the bike is a little more difficult to install. A full-length bog can be attached to the frame at the end or have a quick-release seat tube clamp. The latter is more versatile and fits almost all bikes, and mounting does not require removing the wheel. Also, almost all modern waders have adjustable arches for greater versatility. Therefore, full size fenders for a 26" bike can also fit 28" wheels.

To install the swamp:

1. Pass it between the rear stays down until it rests with the bracket against the jumper on the frame.
2. If it is threaded, just start the bolt, otherwise, insert the through bolt, washer and start the nut.
3. As in the first case, screw the arcs to the frame.
4. Screw/clip the clamp onto the seat tube or bolt the end to the frame.
5. Adjust the bogger in height relative to the frame and tighten all bolts.
6. Put the wheel back in place and recheck the brakes if necessary.

Done, you have installed both fenders and are now completely protected from dirt.

Should I leave my bike in the workshop?

If you are not confident in your abilities, it is best to take it to a workshop to install boggers. The procedure will take at least 20 minutes for complex frames, in most cases it will be done right in front of you.

Usually the desire to install fenders for a bicycle comes after riding a field road in rainy weather. Of course, the work in this case will be dirty. It is recommended to wipe down the bike before taking it to the workshop.

Shop site, in this photo essay will tell you how to assemble a bike out of the box

Introduction

From the experience of working in the company, I can say that most often we send bicycles in boxes to other cities using the services of transport companies. In order to find out the shipping cost, you will need to know the dimensions of the box.

Approximate dimensions of an adult bike box:

Volume: 0.2 cm 3 ,
Length: 140 cm,
Height: 70 cm,
Width: 20 cm.

We warn you that in order to guarantee the integrity of the kit and the completion of the warranty card, the boxes are opened and sealed again before shipping..

Preparation

So, you have received your new bicycle sealed in the box.

Be careful when opening the box, do not injure yourself on the staples

Our manager Alexander is ready to start assembling.

Bicycle set:

• Frame with rear wheel and attachments
• Front wheel
• Box or package with the necessary components and spare parts.
• Instruction
• This bike kit includes fenders, they will be sealed in a separate bag. (It is possible to complete the bike without fenders)

Do not throw away the fender bag or tear it, you will find instructions for assembling the fenders on the bag.

Contents of the box with accessories and spare parts

• Instruction manual with warranty card
• Set of reflectors
• Mounts for mounting reflectors
• Cam for front wheel
• seatpost
• Saddle
• Pedals

Assembly keys are not included with the bike. You can purchase everything you need on our website, or use your own tool.

A set of tools for assembling a bicycle.

• wire cutters
• Hexagon set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Slotted screwdriver (flat)
• Key for 15
• Lubrication (The bike will come treated with factory lubrication. But you will definitely need it when using it. For example, to process the chain after riding)

Remove the packaging material and clamps from the bicycle.

Be careful not to damageshift cable and brakes

Steering wheel installation

For convenience, we recommend that you first deal with the steering wheel. A 5 hexagon will help you with this.

• Unscrew the bolt from above and remove from fork stem protective cardboard sleeve.
• Straighten the cables (on the left and right sides of the frame you should have one shift and brake cable each). Slide the stem onto the stem of the fork.
• With a 5mm Allen key, through the anchor cover, pull off the steering column, but do not tighten it all the way. This bolt is only needed to select the steering column play.
• Tighten the handlebar side bolts. Bolts provide final fixation
• Set the brake levers and shift knobs on the steering wheel to a comfortable position.

Mounting the steering wheel on a threaded steering column

If the steering wheel is mounted on a threaded steering column, then simply insert the stem into the hole in the frame. And tighten the bolt on top with a hexagon 6

After installation, check the steering column for play. It shouldn't be!

Installing the front wheel

Pick up the eccentric that you took out in a separately lying bag / box.

If there is no eccentric, this means that the wheel, on your bike, is attached with nuts. Then you need a wrench or socket for 15, or a pedal wrench.

Insert the eccentric into the bushing as shown in Fig2. The eccentric lever must be on the left side of the wheel in the direction of travel ( in the photo, the eccentric lever is specially shown on the other side, for clarity). Then install the wheel on the seats in the fork.

For owners of bicycles with disc brakes: carefully look at the brake disc, it should fit exactly between the pads

Then turn the eccentric clockwise and tighten until it is parallel to the fork. Fig 4

Saddle installation

Take in your hand the seatpost, the hex 6 and the saddle itself.
Loosen the fasteners on the pin with a hex key without unscrewing the bolt completely.

Place the stud attachments on the frames under the saddle as shown below.

How to assemble a saddle

After tightening, install it in the hole in the seat tube of the frame. Adjust the slope and tighten it completely.
important Important! The correct position is when the surface of the saddle is parallel to the surface of the earth.

Wing installation

The rear fender is attached to the seatpost of the bike. It is possible that the wings can be mounted directly on the frame.

The front fender is also fixed in two ways:

• installation under the fork (rests against the walls of the fork stem),
• on the traverse (gorilla) of the fork.

As I mentioned above, do not tear the package. It briefly but quite clearly provides information on assembling the wings.

First, separate the set. Let's start with the front fender.

Cut the elastic bands. These elastic bands will be attached to the fork stem, resting against the walls. They will not let the wing jump off its seat.

Pick up the rubber bands with a large diameter (4) and (5), the mounting bracket (3) and the long one (6). We put on the rubber bands and fix them with a nut (7) as shown in the figure below. Elastic bands with a smaller diameter are included in the package of this wing, for installation in snares of a smaller diameter. You can just set them aside or throw them away.

We get an almost finished design.
We fix the wings on the mounting bracket.

We install the finished front fender on the bike.

Now on to assembling the rear wing. The rear wing is much easier to assemble. We act in the same way. We lay out everything in order. The photo is quite clear what and where is attached.

The rear fender is attached to the seatpost. Don't forget to install the rubber spacer between the fender mount and the seat post.

Wing tilt adjustable with plastic nuts

Loosen the nut completely to get the right angle. The mount requires gentle handling, so if the wing won't go down or up, don't push too hard or you could break it.

Installing the pedals

The bike comes with two pedals. Each pedal is labeled which is left and which is right. Most often you will see letters on the pedal axle: L for left and R for right.

The pedals have different threads. The right pedal is screwed clockwise, the left - counterclockwise

To fully fix the pedals, you will definitely need a pedal wrench for 15.

Wheel inflation

Pump up the cameras. Working pressure is indicated on the tires. For a mountain bike, usually 2.8-4.5 bar. If the pump is without a pressure gauge, then inflate the wheels to your weight so that when landing on a bicycle, the tire does not collapse by more than 20% of the height.

The correct level of pressure in the chamber depends a) Your safety b) The ease of movement of the bike c) The durability of the wheels

Congratulations!

You have assembled your new iron friend! Now we advise you to stretch each bolt and you can go for a ride.

Fenders for a bicycle is the most controversial topic for all cyclists and pros. Bike masters prefer to ride without them. But for ordinary trips around the city, and out of town, bicycle wings provide a number of advantages. I myself had, in total? 3 pairs of different types of wings. Haven't found the perfect fender yet, but unfortunately only a rear bike fender.

It is attached with a plastic clip and fixed on the seat tube. Perfect. Spinning back and forth. But this is not critical. But the mount does not fall off.

On the website of Kotovsky, it is more or less written about the wings on a bicycle. But not completely. Let's go over the main arguments of the opponents of bicycle fenders.

1. Overweight. In one of my articles, I expressed my attitude towards facilitating the bike, but in short - do not do nonsense. In relation to wings, this means that nowadays all good shin guards are in perfectly acceptable weight categories. Metal as a material is long gone.

2. Aerodynamics deteriorate. In my opinion, this item could only be used in time trials where every second counts. In conventional rides, at normal speeds, the effect of wings on aerodynamics is negligible. For those who really feel the negative effect, I can only advise you to exercise more and eat more.

3. Appearance deteriorates. I can’t argue with anything here - for me, the wings on a bicycle are disgusting, and I can’t do anything about it. I will only note that I am talking about sports bikes, on city bikes and touring, the shields look quite harmonious.

4. Wings will not protect you from the rain, you will still be wet. Sounds reasonable, but only in case of a downpour. However, most of the time we get some light rain, which is not a problem as the cycling uniform dries before our eyes. It is a completely different matter when the stream of water from the rear wheel gently hits the sirloin, soaking the diaper. Riding with a wet diaper is a rather unpleasant occupation, and on many saddles it is painful. I'm not talking about possible health problems.

The site lomasterclass.ru tells about different types of bicycle fenders.

Types of wings and their effectiveness

Stationary short wings

Usually made from plastic. They are attached to the frame or fork or at one point with a bolt. They are about one and a half times shorter than long wings. Stationary short fenders are close to the tire and provide pretty good protection. These fenders are lightweight and well-mounted, but provide poor protection against mud from the front derailleur and shins. Personally, I had such wings and broke quite quickly. The mounts weren't all that great.

Quick release short fenders

Made of plastic, They are attached to the frame with a special clip. The distance between the fender and the tire is 10 - 20 cm. Because of this, the level of protection is much worse and the dirt flies in all directions. Quick-detachable short fenders are insensitive to dirt clogging between the fender and tire, quickly removed when transporting the bike. But, with them, the cyclist will be covered in mud. When too high altitude such wings become a meaningless accessory that does not fulfill its main function. The plastic mount on my fender fell off quite quickly. Also not a good option

Stationary long wings

Made from metal and plastic. Bolted to the frame or fork in three places. They provide maximum protection because they cover a quarter of the circumference of the front wheel and half of the circumference of the rear wheel, and are also close above the tire. Stationary long fenders at the rear can be combined with the trunk. When buying such wings, you need to consider that they have big weight. Another disadvantage is that, due to the short distance, dirt gets clogged between the wheel and the fender. Therefore, such fenders are usually installed on road and city bikes.

As seen perfect bike fenders does not exist. The longer the wing and the closer it is to the wheel, the better protection. But, such wings are not suitable, for example, for cross-country and other extreme disciplines. In heavy rain, even the best wings will not help. Thrill-seekers, for whom water and dirt are trifles on the way to victory, do not need them at all.

But Kotovsky has a different opinion about highways.

Mudguards for road bikes and hybrids

Here, the issue of appearance is even more important than in the case of mountain bikes. There is a very elegant option that almost does not disfigure the highway - Crud Road Racer Mk2. Personally, I have not had time to get it yet, but a road friend recommended it to me.

The system is easily removable and adaptive, such fenders are almost invisible on a bicycle. According to my friend, they protect against water perfectly.

Alternatively, you can put the classic SKS Race Blade. I put these on a hybrid, with the onset of the rainy season in our Estonia. The design is also easily removable, the impressions of several years of operation are positive.

How to choose bicycle fenders?

Wing installation

Installing fenders on a bike is extremely easy, it's much more difficult to find a really good fender. The whole variety of bicycle wings can be divided into two types: stationary and quick-detachable.

Stationary fastened with screws to the front fork and rear stays. For urban models, they sell large bicycle fenders that allow you to cover up to half of the wheel circumference (they are usually made of metal and are additionally fixed with long wire “mustache” for wheel axle tips).

You should pay attention to the fact that the longer the wing and the lower above the wheel it is located, the higher the degree of protection against splashes and the lower the cross-country ability: on difficult routes, dirt will very quickly clog the space under the wings, making it difficult to move.

By the way, they told about the installation of this type of bicycle fenders in pictures on the website http://velotur.org

So, that's what it was originally, a bicycle without wings.

And here is the kit for attaching one wing:

Now you need to fix the rods with a bicycle fender according to the following scheme:

We assemble the wings and they look like this:

Before installing the wings, it is advisable to completely disable the rim brakes so as not to interfere.

We fasten the front fender in three places: we unscrew the white reflector and screw the first fastening under its bolt and two clamps had to be mounted on separate bolts with large washers, and not on the front wheel axle, for which they (clamps), apparently, were intended.

For the rear wing, we bend the plate and fasten it in four places: I fastened two clamps as in the case of the front wheel, for the third fastening we need a bolt for six, we string it on the plate and the tube connecting the rear triangle fork

and the last one at the very bottom of the seat tube:

In the end, you may need to slightly adjust the installation of the fenders, you can move the clamps and other fasteners to seat the fender so that it does not rub against the wheel. And only then we tighten all the bolts to the end.

So the wings are installed.

Installation of quick-release wings

Quick-release fenders attach to the head tube and seat post. These wings are usually very wide, so they protect well, including from side splashes. Their main drawback, perhaps, is one: not all quick-detachable rear fenders can be used with a trunk. The ease of removal of the wings does not mean that they will be easy to steal: the wing (both rear and front) does not cling directly to the bike, but to the mount, and if the wing itself can be removed very quickly, then it takes time to release the mount.

Also, a special shield attached to the bicycle frame can also be attributed to the wings. He can still catch some amount of dirt flying from under the front wheel.

Now, in fact, a short story about how to install fenders on a bicycle. Small, because almost always bicycle accessories are equipped not only with all the necessary fasteners, but also with installation instructions, often with diagrams. Note for rim brake owners: Loosen the fenders before installing the fenders.

It may happen that in the place where you need to mount the fixed fender, your bike already has a reflector (corner reflector) installed. It's okay, as a rule, the length of the bolt allows you to fix both accessories.

Installing the front fender

Usually the front fender is fixed at one point (unless you have a mustache design), while the rear fender can have two fastenings: it is screwed to the frame with a screw and additionally bottom fixed to the very bottom of the seat tube (for this, there can be an arcuate latch at the narrow end of the wing). Of course, if your bike has a rack, the rear fender fits under it. So that it vibrates less and does not move while driving, you can use rubber bands, ties, or somehow additionally pull the wing to the trunk.

Installation of easily removable wings

Easy-to-remove fenders are also easy to install. The fastener-strut of the front wing is stuck into the head tube from below and tightened with an adjusting screw. All. Now insert the wing into the groove (until it clicks). Removing and putting on such a wing afterwards is a matter of a few seconds, but depending on the design there may be some problems, the main of which is play. You may need to independently, as they say, “finish the design with a file”: how exactly - look at the situation.

The fasteners of the rear easily removable fender are fixed on the seatpost. If the stud is too smooth, without a friction rubber pad, the wing can move while riding. In addition, if the wing is not stiff enough, it can also twitch from side to side, so choose a wider model. The easily removable rear wing has one important advantage: depending on the specific situation, you can easily change the distance to the wheel and the angle of the wing.

Remember that you can get the best fenders (and maybe even improve their splash-proofing properties by attaching pieces of plastic to the ends of the fenders), but they still will not protect you from the spray of cars on the left, and your back (or backpack on it) from rain from above. Therefore, for a comfortable ride in wet weather, we recommend getting a backpack cover and / or a rain cover. Also pay attention to bicycle helmets with visors.

And one more video about the review and installation of wings from the Author: