How to make a racket at home. Home made Table Tennis Blade - Homemade racket
If someone is thinking of making a homemade table tennis blade, two ready-made templates may be useful. Not so, as it turned out, brands have complex patterns. Essentially, the base can be drawn with circular arcs. My first experience was with the TSP Balsa/GlassFiber 6.5 mm base template (the 5.5 mm has the same template). I simply traced the base with a pencil, placing it on a piece of paper, and then used a compass to pick up the pieces of the circles. After that, it’s just a matter of carefully documenting everything. The second template is the base from Butterfly Timo Boll ALC.
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Unfortunately, I was unable to make a pdf that would retain the dimensions of the drawing when printed. But, anyway, the next step should be to transfer the drawing onto the template itself, which can be made from some thin durable plastic. I used foil fiberglass laminate 1 mm thick.
Making a table tennis base at home is not at all difficult. There would be something to make from. The only minimum tools you need are a hacksaw (can be used for metal), a sharp knife and all sorts of skins. You can glue the layers without a press, placing them between two even pieces of chipboard (you need to place a thin piece of foam rubber or polyethylene foam packaging for uniform pressure) and pressing the entire cake with a bucket of water. It turns out very well. Titebond (II) glue for wood, there are several types, any will do. To make the end of the racket strictly perpendicular, it is advisable to build a “perpendicular file” - attach a metal corner to a piece of plexiglass and clamp sandpaper under the same corner. Then use it by pressing the plane of the blade against the plexiglass
Two years ago I bought balsa for the central layers and birch plywood at the Termic store. Now you can order the desired “pie” at Aerobalsa, made from abacha, balsa, both together, and even from poplar. I assume that if you contact the owner of the company, then walnut or mahogany veneer can be glued onto the cake to order. Carbon fabric is also available in the catalogue. The difficulty is that you need to determine the thickness and weight in advance. This may require several iterations, which is troublesome. And so, offhand, five-layer abacha plywood 6 mm thick is a ready-made Donic Baum SawTec base :-) without cheeks.
Results:
Balsa comes in different hardness and density. The hardest and densest balsa covers the lower limit of the density of abacha (ayous). Therefore, if you have dense balsa, you can make the entire racket from balsa. It will be light and slow. Below is a sample. In addition to the birch aircraft plywood, the Thermik store bought three-layer and rather dense balsa plywood (Graupner). The result was a fully functional lightweight (75 g) base, with a thickness of 9.5 mm - not at all flexible, with a very soft rebound. In terms of speed - ALL, and in meaning - DEF.
Another example is a 15-layer base. The inner layers (9 pcs = 3x3) are the already mentioned three-layer balsa plywood, and the outer layer is three-layer thin aviation birch plywood. When reading some site about tree species, I think I saw a phrase that birch is not much different from limba. The base turned out to be heavy (110 g), but the speed was OFF+. TSP Balsa 6.5 is faster, but TSP Balsa 8.5 is slower. The thickness of the blade is 9.5 mm, so there is zero flexibility, but the rebound is soft, the base is not glass.
And a couple more reasons, to complete the picture. UM-5 - the speed is somewhere at ALL++/OFF-, the rest is written on the photo.
UM-6, handle wrapped in leather. OFF-/ OFF.
UM-6 9-layer base, this is not a mistake. It uses 2mm 4-ply birch aircraft plywood. According to the rules (or GOSTs), if plywood has an even number of layers, the inner layers are glued together with fibers in one direction (and not at 90 degrees).
Here I must honestly admit that in fact I did not really study the properties of my homemade balsa bases. There was always something more urgent to try, so I hardly played with these blades. The exception is the last base UM-6, which has a handle with a winding. With the LKT PRO XT on the left and PRO XP, I got something so controllable (with good OFF-/OFF speed) that I played for a couple of months and then came back to compare with other (branded) blades. It's as if the racket has short spikes glued on it - the ball can be directed to any point. However, the base turned out to be heavy, so the cavity and template in the handle were smaller than the standard one - I made it as light as I could. All these bases - by design - are absolutely not for rotation. They are for blocks and flat shots. Or under a short spike.
From the translator: This is a translation of the article “20 Tips For Twiddlers” from “The Tactical Table Tennis Website”, the original of which can be found.
Let me explain the term "twiddling" for those who encounter it for the first time. “Twiddling” is a technique where a player twists the racket during a ball or between serves, switching sides of the racket. This technique is often used by defenders who have spikes on one side of the racket and a smooth rubber on the other, as well as by players whose racket is armed with rubbers that have different characteristics.
Here are some tips that may come in handy if you like to spin your racket while playing.
1 - Do not use any one rubber only for passive roleplaying or to cover some weaknesses in your technique. Play actively with both rubbers, and master as wide a range of strokes as possible with them. The use of this technique should be dictated by tactical necessity, and not by one’s own limitations and shortcomings.
2 - Do not become dependent on some kind of overlay. Do not always accept serves only with her. This is weakness. You must be able to accept any serve from both sides.
3 - Use inventory that you can manage. Put some effort, time and money into figuring out what you can handle and what you can't, what works and what doesn't suit your play style. Experimenting with equipment is extremely important for mastering it at the proper level, especially for long spikes.
4 - Use both sides of the racket for both offense and defense. Learn to attack with your “defensive” rubber and defend with your “attacking” rubber. Sometimes you still have to do this. Use rubbers with a “return spin” effect to hit the ball with underspin. Use spikes for sharp short strokes. Use rubbers with good control to expand the angle of attack. Use slow overlays for short discounts. Think about how to fully identify and exploit the strengths of your rubbers.
5 - Don't be afraid to serve both sides. Long pimples and anti-spin can also make an excellent serve.
6 - Spin the racket when your opponent serves. Spin it every time your opponent checks the position of your racket before serving. Spin it before your serve. By doing this, you can force him to serve to the side of the racket that you are comfortable with, or he will serve without knowing which side you will return the ball with.
7 - Learn to rotate the racket while playing the ball. Don't be afraid of it. Rotate the racket and switch from attack to defense and back. You can do this easier and more effectively than a player who has the same pads on both sides.
8 - Practice playing with both rubbers, backhand and forehand. Do this against any style and equipment. Invent yourself special exercises to train your weak points.
9 - Use offensive and defensive pads together. This will give you the flexibility you need. I recommend using protective long tenons even if you don't intend to trim. Slow, strong-pulling (sticky) smooth rubber is very good as an attacking rubber.
10 - The more differences there are between your rubbers, the more dangerous you can act for your opponent. Very pulling + “flat”, very fast + very slow - these are the most popular combinations. The strong traction rubber and long studs provide a nice contrast.
11 - Use a racket with a handle that is easy to spin. For example, I find conical and flared (FL) handles comfortable. If you plan to use long pimples without a sponge (OX version), then you may need a flexible base on which the ball sits for a long time. Also, don't underestimate the benefit of control that a slow inventory will give you.
12 - Change your grip during the game if you need to. The grip may depend on the rubber used for the shot, the shot being played, the amount of rotation on the ball and its direction. You can't do anything wrong here, everything is acceptable, whatever is convenient for you. You can play with either a loose grip or a bent wrist if you like. Just be sure that your playing style and technique can evolve and improve, and that such a grip will not hinder this.
13 - Watch experienced defenders. See how they change their game depending on a variety of factors. You should do the same because you will still have to defend yourself sometimes.
14 - Don't focus on a frantic attack or a dumb defense. Leave these styles to players with two smooth rubbers or two long pimples respectively. You can switch between them as needed and play whatever you want. this moment style for as long as you want.
15 - Take care of your extensions. Even spikes don't become more effective when they're dirty. Keep your pads clean.
16 - Play with both rubbers during your pre-match warm-up. Are you planning to use both sides in the game? By not doing this, you may not only confuse your opponent during the first balls, but also harm yourself. Also rotate your racquet during your warm-up to immediately test the effectiveness of switching sides against your opponent's style.
17 - Show your sparring partners how they should play against you. Explain to them your weaknesses. Let them be more dangerous for you, that's the only way you can grow. Otherwise, you will constantly beat them only due to the fact that they cannot cope with the “dark” sides of your inventory. Whereas you should win thanks to your tactics and your skills.
18 - There are combinations of rubbers and styles that are more effective when faced with other specific combinations of rubbers and styles. For example, defenders with long pips may have problems against players who can hit sharp and short shots off the table. Players who play anti-spin in the stand can be very unpleasant for hitters who like to make tops. Of course, all this is very subjective and depends on many factors. Determine if this is the case when you encounter something similar in your match so you can benefit from it.
19 - Determine what gives your opponent the most problems (flat balls, discounts, clipping, etc.) and start hitting his weak spot. You can do this because you are armed with more versatile weapons than your opponent. Well-rounded players who have no weaknesses are quite rare, at least until you reach a certain level of play.
20 - Don’t pay attention to stupid attacks directed at you. There are players who really don't like playing against a certain style or equipment just because they don't know how to play against them. This usually happens due to a misconception or misunderstanding of the principles of the impact of such equipment on the ball, or generally for some irrational reasons (these include strange ideas such as: playing anti-spin does not require skill or using long pimples is cheating). You can argue with them, try to give advice, explain something, or advise them to turn to other players. In any case, remember that you do not have to prove anything to anyone. You play the best you can and that's what you should do.
People who play sports are statistically less likely to suffer from chronic diseases and always have good mood and excellent physical fitness. But we all know how much it costs now Sports Equipment. Sometimes the price of sports equipment exceeds the price of a blouse from a famous couturier. Why limit yourself to active movements and sports when you can make any sports equipment yourself at home. First, take a small thing, for example, a sports racket.
If you are interested in making your own table tennis racket, then watch the video.
To make a tennis racket, we will need:
- plywood;
- silicone foam;
- thin strips;
- electric jigsaw;
- file;
- cutter;
- Super glue;
- paint with brushes;
- PVC tape;
- pencil;
- corner;
- sandpaper;
- roulette.
We will need a piece of plywood in order to draw the outline of the racket on it. The dimensions should be closer to standard, namely 28 by 16 centimeters. You don’t need to draw the racket randomly, as this can lead to one edge being larger or smaller than the other. Draw cells or horizontal and vertical stripes on the plywood and draw your racket based on them.
Now we take a jigsaw and cut out the racket. It is best to use a jigsaw with an infrared beam; using it you will see in which direction you need to move the jigsaw.
We process the racket with sandpaper. It will hide all the irregularities and remove burrs that can seriously injure your hands.
For the handle we will need thin strip linings. Carefully measure the length of the slats, it should be no more than 11 centimeters.
We grind the upper part of the lining with a file at an angle of 30 degrees.
Now silicone foam will be used. From this we cut out the outline for the top of the racket, but before that we need to paint the racket itself. Paint one side of the racket one color and the other side a different color.
While the racket is drying, we cut out silicone foam along the contour of the racket.
We have made 2 blanks from silicone foam, now we need to glue them on both sides using super glue.
Now we glue the strips onto the handle and wrap everything with PVC tape.
Table tennis (ping pong) has its own rules of play and equipment requirements. So, the racket must be made of wood, the sides must be covered with at least one, preferably two, layer of special rubber. The higher the level ( sports category) player, the more high-quality racket he should have. Expensive factory-made rackets have a base made of several layers of wood of various species, as well as several layers of titanium or carbon fiber. Rackets for professionals are usually assembled according to the instructions of the coach, who, taking into account the level and style of play of the athlete, selects the base and rubber (topsheet ) and sponges (sponge). The hardness of the sponges is measured in degrees (from 35 degrees - soft, to 47 - hard), the type of rubber also differs in the presence or absence of studs.
ITTF rules require that the blade of the racket be at least 85% wood. Certain requirements are imposed on the type and type of spikes: long spikes are generally prohibited. In addition, a good quality racket should be made of dark wood, with a matte and dark finish (the sides should be different colors). The thickness of the coating should not exceed 2 millimeters; it should be either regular pimples (pimples facing outward) or sponge rubber, maximum thickness of 4 millimeters, covered with pimples (pimples outward or inward: “sandwich” coating). The coating should be matte and dark.
DIY table tennis racket.
Make DIY racket it is possible, but you need to have a good understanding of the game, understand your own playing level and the goals that need to be achieved when making a racket: in order to correctly select all the materials for its assembly.
It is impossible to determine what is most important when making a racket with your own hands: each element must correspond to its purpose. The base (blade) and its shape are important, the choice of all layers of wood and its quality are important, the shape and thickness of the handle, the type (material) of the lining, and even the type and manufacturer of glue for joining the parts are important.
Many companies that produce sports equipment offer a wide selection of components for assembling a racket with your own hands. But you need to understand that only proper manufacturing: the choice of components, which in any case will have to be purchased in specialized stores, will allow you to get a racket that suits your needs. It will not be possible to make a racket from scratch with your own hands: to get a good base, you need to select certain types of veneer and, under special conditions (which are only possible if you have certain equipment), glue them together with special adhesives. The same applies to all other parts of the racket - it is best to purchase materials and assemble the racket with your own hands.
Table tennis is olympic event sports and very popular, interesting game, which does not lose its relevance to this day. Table tennis is played by both professionals - masters of sports, candidates for master's degree, and just amateurs! It's no secret that a tennis racket is of great importance and your game will depend on its choice: ball control, rebound speed, spin, etc. Some players, after playing ping pong for say a month, understand that the main weapon in the game of table tennis is the tennis racket - it has, if not a primary, then undoubtedly an important role! The comfort of the racket handle and the characteristics of the racket itself influence the speed and quality of the game of table tennis. And this, in turn, is the key to a successful game and victory!
In online stores and specialized stores of table tennis equipment and clothing you can see a huge selection of all kinds of table tennis bases and rubbers. All this diversity is just dizzying.
So how to choose tennis racket from a wide variety, so that the racket matches your playing style and is comfortable? After all, outwardly all rackets are the same and practically no different from each other! Just a different handle configuration, wood color and that’s it. But in fact, each racket is individual, each racket blade has its own unique ball rebound speed, its own ball control.
The most important thing is that the racket allows you to play comfortably at high speed, and allows you to perfectly control the spinning ball during the ball! The racket must be good in both defense and defense. A good racket should be a powerful tool in the hands of a tennis player. Only such a racket can lead a tennis player to victory over his opponent!
Components of a table tennis racket!
A table tennis racket consists of the following main parts:
1. Base (plywood) – the most basic part of the racket. It is made from all kinds of wood, even using alloys of aluminum and titanium. To increase the overall weight of the racket, a carbon insert is built into the base. The professional base is made of several layers, which are glued together with special glue. As a rule, there are 5 or 7 such layers. It is of great importance that the total weight does not exceed 100 grams! As a rule, their weight ranges from 74 to 100 grams.
2. The racket handle is an integral part of the racket base. The handle is responsible for the comfort of the game. The ease of placement in the hand will depend on its shape. The handle should not strain your hand too much. It should provide comfort when rotating it with your wrist! Today there are 5 types of pens known. They all have different thicknesses, they can be flared or straight, etc.
3. Rubbers – the upper component of the racket. They come in studded and smooth types. They are responsible for the speed and force of rotation of the ball. The rubbers allow you to make all sorts of complex serves, from sliced and lightning-fast to short and slow! Sticky pads allow you to spin the ball with underspin, overspin, right spin, left spin, or a combination of these spins. Rubbers are the part of the racket that needs to be replaced, either due to wear or due to a change in playing style. Let's say you prefer an attacking style of play, and your rubbers are that of a defender. According to the requirements of the Table Tennis Federation, the rubbers must have different colors (red and black). This allows the opponent to monitor the change of side of the racket and makes it possible to determine the type of blow: with or without rotation, defensive or attacking! Between the base and the rubber pad, as a rule, there is a sponge - a special spongy layer created for the catapulting rebound of the ball from the racket.
It should be noted right away that there are ready-made rackets, and there are also not ready-made ones, but prefabricated ones.
With a professional approach to table tennis, you have the opportunity to carry out your unique order for the production of a combined racket according to your own request with the characteristics you need!
Many beginners buy inexpensive products from popular tennis brands in the hope that they will get the best price good quality. For a beginner this is right choice, because at first you need to learn how to control the ball when playing the ball, and be able to throw the ball to the opposite side of the table. And the rule, the higher the cost, the proportionally higher the quality, does not work here! Because a beginner, having bought an expensive professional racket, will not be able to appreciate all its unsurpassed characteristics. Moreover, such a racket can even harm a beginner, since such a racket has high speed and rotation characteristics. But you shouldn’t buy a cheap Chinese fake either. Advice: Don't buy a racquet for growth. Play with simple rackets first (more suited to your playing style), then move on to more complex ones that require you to perform more complex elements in table tennis: top spin, cutting (washed down), etc.
It is better to consult with a coach before purchasing a racket. If you don’t have a trainer, then become a sales consultant at the store where you will buy. He will tell you the characteristics of various models and recommend a racket model for you! Before buying a racket, hold it in your hands, feel the comfort of the handle, turning the brush in different directions. Buy a special case for your racket to protect it from contamination and damage!
So, choosing the right racket is very important point in the process of training and education. This is important for achieving high sports results! This issue must be approached seriously with maximum responsibility!
