Buying a horse means regularly using it for riding, cart and sleigh rides, or hauling loads, depending on the purpose of the breed. All this requires the ability to correctly harness the horse in order to protect the animal from injury and make the work efficient. The harnessing process has its own characteristics, and it is not at all easy for a person without experience to deal with this. So, we will analyze in more detail what the harness consists of, what methods of its fastening exist and the sequence of actions when harnessing.

Harness, like clothing for a person, must be selected individually for each horse. Properly fitted harness does not prevent the animal from moving and does not cause discomfort, which means that the risk of injury is reduced. All this ammunition consists of several elements, each of which performs certain functions.

Harness elements	Short description
	The main purpose is to distribute the load on the shoulders and neck and increase the transfer of traction to the wagon or agricultural implement (harrow, plow). The main part of the clamp, pliers, is made of metal or wood and consists of two halves of a curved shape. Additionally, the collar includes a supon, a collar (soft lining), tugs, and is available in 12 sizes. It is put on the neck of the animal, and for a snug fit, its shape repeats the outlines of this part of the body. Requires precise fitting, since an excessively loose collar clings to the spines of the shoulder blades, confuses the mane and interferes with the movement of the front legs, and a too tight collar interferes with normal blood circulation, squeezing the airways
	Used to control the animal while moving. It consists of a bit and a whole set of different straps: occipital, forehead, chin, capsule, reins. A bit, or snaffle, is a structure made of metal movable elements that are inserted into the animal's mouth. As the bridle moves, the snaffle applies pressure to the corners of the mouth, lower jaw, or tongue, urging the horse into certain actions. Bridles differ in structure and number of elements, as a result of which they are divided into several types: snaffle, bitless, mouthpiece. Bridles are available in four sizes
	The purpose is to support the shafts, arches and collar, distribute the load from the neck to the back, and soften the impact of the harness on an uneven road. The shape and size of the saddle is of paramount importance for effective work animal. Saddles are divided into standing and recumbent: if the animal has a sharp and high withers, standing ones are used, if the withers are low - recumbent ones. The first type rests on the muscles of the neck and withers, leaving the spinous processes free. The second type relies both on the processes and on the muscles of the cervical-shoulder region. The saddle is fastened with girths, located on the back, behind the shoulder blades
	The main purpose is to fix the saddle and the saddle on the back of the horse. This is a wide belt with special fasteners. Girths are made of leather, braid, synthetic dense fabrics with gel pads. Modern girths are anatomically shaped for a better fit to the belly of the animal, equipped with a fleece or fur lining to absorb sweat. The belt itself has a perforation that provides air exchange during movement and prevents the occurrence of diaper rash.
	A harness is a system of belts that fix the collar during a sharp stop and acceleration of the horse's run. A circular belt wraps around the horse's body and is attached to the pincers on both sides, the dorsal one is located along the spine, the side ones connect the helmet and shafts. The cross and slant straps act as anchors for the main straps at the front and back of the torso. The harness also requires an individual fit, as straps that are too loose slip onto the hips and interfere with movement, while straps that are too tight rub the skin
	The purpose is to hold the shafts and the collar on the back of the horse and transfer the draft force to the saddle. It is pulled through the saddle and fastened with both ends to the shafts. Thanks to this belt, the weight of the harness is distributed more evenly, shoulder tension and cervical declining
	Another belt, covering the belly of the horse and connecting with a ring to the saddle. It is stretched under the girth, fastened with the ends to the shafts. It is designed to smooth out oscillations of the arc and clamp, that is, when fast run horse, he protects her back and withers from sharp blows harness and related injuries
	An arc-shaped element that fastens tugs and shafts and fixes them in one position. It is made of light elastic wood, serves as a shock absorber for shafts. The arcs are divided into several types: agricultural, traveling, dray, semi-mule. According to the manufacturing method, they are divided into bent glued and solid bent. For the first type, larch, birch, aspen wood is used, for the second - maple, ash, willow, bird cherry, elm. The arc is not an obligatory element of the harness and is used mainly in the harness of the Russian sample
	Thin belts with which to control the horse. They have carabiners at the ends, which are fastened to the harness. They are made of ropes or soft leather, very often they are combined. The main requirement for the reins is a combination of strength and lightness.

Harness can be bought in one set, but experienced horse owners recommend purchasing each element separately, taking into account the individual characteristics of the animal's physique.

Types and methods of harnessing

There are many known options for harnessing horses, and they differ not only in the type of harness, but also in the way it is fastened, the purpose, and the number of horses.

Types of harnesses by type of harness:

• post-line- the easiest option for use in agriculture. Drawbars and shafts are not used here, so the weight of the harness and the load on the animal is less than with other methods. At the same time, on a steep descent, such a harness cannot hold the wagon, which often leads to horse injuries;

  

• post-line drawbar- the harness is completed with an arc and a drawbar designed to contain the wagon. Used in agricultural work. Such a harness provides stability during movement and increases the efficiency of the animal. It is very important here not to overtighten the harness, otherwise the drawbar will put more pressure on the clamp and cause damage. shoulder area and withers;
• deafening-linear- characterized by the absence of an arc. The clamp is connected to the shafts with separate clamps made of metal or leather. If short shafts are used, they are connected to the saddle. This method is common in a number of European countries, and therefore is often called the English harness;

  

• sharp-arc- is considered a domestic type of harness, it is almost never found in Europe and Western countries. Used in agriculture and transportation. With the help of a wooden arc, a clamp and a shaft are connected, while the arc prevents ticks from eversion and increases the efficiency of the animal;

  

• mixed- combines 2-3 types of harnesses and allows you to simultaneously use several horses. It is characterized by the absence of an arc, most often used for transporting people or cargo, not suitable for broken roads with steep descents and ascents.

  

According to the number of horses harnessed at the same time, teams are divided into paired, single and multi-horse. In the steam room, animals are located in 2 ways - next to each other or one behind the other. The first option is called a couple, the second - a tandem, or train. In both cases, either a line-by-line type of harness is used, or a mixed one.

Multi-horse harnesses can only be of a mixed type. Each horse, depending on the location, has its own name. The root is considered the main one - an animal harnessed either to a drawbar or shafts. He pulls the wagon, slows it down on the slopes, which requires endurance and great physical strength. That is why the strongest and tallest horse is chosen as a rooter. An outrigger horse is harnessed in front, and a harness horse is near the root.

Three horses can be harnessed in a row (Russian troika), in a train, or in a European way - a root and two outriggers in front. For a narrow road, this way of transportation is more convenient. For four horses, two methods are used: a pair of outriggers in front of a pair of indigenous ones (fours) and four horses in a row (quadriga).

A team of five animals is called a pyaterik. Only one option is used here - three remote ones are located in a row, followed by a pair of indigenous ones. The shesterik is three pairs harnessed in series. It makes no practical sense to harness more animals, but such harnesses are often used in various entertainment and festive events.

Harness rules

To properly harness the horse, you first need to check the integrity of the harness, make sure that all the elements are available. A faulty harness must not be worn on an animal: during movement, the belts may burst or loosen, which will lead to injury to the horse. When hit, the wagon can also be damaged, roll over, especially if the road is uneven. The wagon itself is also worth inspecting, checking the presence of grease in the wheels so that it is easier for the horse to pull it. After making sure that everything is in order, you need to choose an open, convenient area in the yard and roll out the wagon. It is also necessary to take the harness there and carefully lay it out.

The next step is preparing the horse. The animal must be calm state otherwise nothing will work. If the horse jerks its head, rushes about, beats with its hoof, it is better not to approach it, especially for those who do not yet have great experience handling horses. Be sure to check the skin on the chest, withers and shoulders of the horse before harnessing: first visually, and then run over these areas with your hand. If the horse reacts painfully to touch, this indicates a health problem, which means that it cannot be harnessed. If there is no reaction, as well as visible damage to the skin, you can start the process of harnessing.

Step 1. They take the bridle in their left hand, slowly, calmly come close to the horse on the left side, wrap their right hand around the head and bend it slightly towards their shoulder.

Step 2 Gently throw the reins over the neck over the head, straighten the snaffle and insert it into the horse's mouth so that it does not touch the teeth. At this time, the bridle is lifted with the right hand and the ears are passed between the two straps - the occipital and forehead. They adjust the straps on the cheeks and the hair on the forehead so that they do not get tangled.

Step 3 Straighten the belt under the lower jaw of the horse and fasten it. You can’t tighten it too much - a fist should pass freely between the throat and the belt.

Step 4 The capsule is next fastened, leaving a gap between the skin and the belt two fingers wide, no more. They check for wrinkles on the lips of the horse, inspect the belts again, correcting twisted areas if necessary.

Advice. If the horse then begins to buck, turn his head, make sudden movements, this means that he is experiencing discomfort. Perhaps the elements of the bridle do not fit or are too tight. In this case, you need to remove everything, let the horse calm down and repeat all over again.

Step 5 The horse is brought to the wagon, the saddle is placed on its back, closer to the neck, and the girth is tightened to the right.

Step 6 They take a collar, turn it with pincers towards themselves, straighten the helmet, thread the reins. Now you need to take hold of the tongs (in the part where the tugs are fixed), put on the animal's neck and slightly move towards the head. After that, the ticks are lowered into the desired position, the mane is carefully released from under them.

Step 7 They approach the horse on the left, lift and straighten the harness at the withers. The belts are threaded into buckles, tightened so that between them and the buttocks there is a gap for the thickness of the palm.

Step 8 Then they approach from the side of the head, take an arc in one hand, a rein in the second and lead the horse into shafts. On the shaft on the left, they loop the belt of the saddle, then the underbelly, and insert one end of the arc. They throw it over the neck and fix the second end on the right shaft.

Step 9 The shafts are leveled in length, the arc is set vertically, the supon is removed from the tug loops and the pliers are wrapped with it 2-3 times. Tighten until it stops so that the pliers close. The arc and shafts must remain at right angles relative to each other.

Step 10 The belt of the interlace is passed under the shaft, and its end is tied on the shaft with a loop. The underbelly is also pulled up, passing through the hole in the girth.

Step 11 They raise the reins, straighten them well, thread the left end into the ring on the tug. Now you need to stand in front of the horse, throw the reins to the right side, thread the right end of the rein and fix it on the bit ring.

Step 12 Tighten the underbelly and the cross-bar, both ends are tied with a loop on the side. Such knots allow you to quickly unharness the animal in emergency situations, but ordinary knots, on the contrary, only delay the process.

On this harness is considered complete. Of course, in the absence of experience, not everyone will be able to immediately deal with the harness using only one instruction, a good example is important here. Much depends on the nature of the horse, because it is almost impossible for a beginner to cope with a frisky and restive animal. It is best if someone experienced, who has been working with horses for a long time, will show the basics.

How to harness a horse

It is also necessary to remove the harness from the horse correctly. If the animal was carrying something on itself, they first remove the load and let the horse walk quietly for about 10 minutes. Then the girths are slightly loosened and, if the horse is still agitated, they again leave it to walk for 10-15 minutes. After that, they begin to unharness:

• untie the reins, pull them out of the rings of the arc, drop them from the neck;
• untie the knot of the underbelly and the interlace, remove the belts from the shafts;
• untie the supon, loosen the clamp and carefully remove the arc;
• the shafts are lowered, the horse is taken out of them, the helmet is removed;
• unfold the collar with the lining up, lift and remove the horse over the head, remove the saddle.

Having removed the harness, you should carefully wipe the animal from sweat, if it is cold outside, cover it with a blanket for a while or take it to the stable.

After that, it is necessary to check the harness, dry it, fold it carefully so that the long straps do not get tangled.

Video - How to harness a horse

Shaft-arc "Russian" harness

The sequence of the shaft-arc harness

Before harnessing the horse, it is necessary to check the condition of the convoy (carriage or sleigh); check the tugs on the collar. Adjust their length so that when harnessing a horse with a supon, it would be possible to pull together the pliers of the clamp and strengthen the arc on the shafts. After that, they put a bridle on the horse, fasten the chin strap, insert a bit into the horse's mouth. If the matter takes place in the winter in the cold, then it is necessary to warm them in the hand before inserting the bit into the horse's mouth. Then a saddle is put on the horse, making a movement from the withers to the back, along the course of the coat, and the girth is fastened to the saddle's throat. The collar is put on the horse's head with pincers up. After the horse's head passes through the hole in the collar, it is turned with pincers down. This should be done in the direction of hair growth of the mane. They straighten the helmet and release the mane and tail from under the collar and harness. Then they take the arc, reins, cross-seat and underbelly in one hand, the rein of the bridle in the other and take the horse out of the stable.

Before harnessing the left shaft, they put on a cross-seat and underbelly at a distance of about 40-50 cm from the end of the shaft. Then, a shaft is placed on the left tug of the clamp, a branch of the arc is inserted into the loop formed and the arc is transferred through the neck of the animal. After that, they lift the right shaft from the ground, apply it to the right branch of the arc and clasp the end of the arc with a tug from above through the shaft. The arc must be laid at the same distance from the ends of the shafts. The supon is wrapped 2 times around the pliers of the clamp and tightened so that the pliers come together. If required, to tighten the suponi, they rest against the right tick with the foot and tighten the supon with the strength of the hands and body. The supon is wrapped again, its free end is inserted between the supon and the pincers and dragged under the supon. The supon is pulled up so that a small loop remains, the end of the supon is pulled back and the remaining end is wrapped around the loop. This is done so that, if necessary, the supon can be dissolved in one jerk. After tightening the suponi, the arc should hold firmly on the shafts. When struck with a hand, the arc should not deviate back or forward.

If the bow is weak, it is necessary to remove it in the reverse order and shorten both tugs. If it is impossible to pull off the ticks, then the tugs should be added. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the collar of the horse does not squeeze the neck, but fits snugly against it. The interlace is threaded through the rings of the saddle, passed under the right shaft and pulled up in such a way that 2-3 fingers can be inserted between the withers and the collar and between the neck and the collar. The end of the interlace is wrapped around the shafts. At the same time, a loop is made so that it can be dissolved in one jerk.

The underbelly is passed through the girth loop and pulled tightly to the right shaft. The occasion, crossed, is thrown over the neck and pulled into an arcuate ring. You can skip the occasion on one side (maneless); they pull it through the chin strap of the bridle and the end is also passed through the arc ring, wrapped around the arc or directly tied to the shaft on the right side. The rein must not restrict the movement of the horse's head. They stretch the reins over the saddle and tugs on both sides of the neck and fasten the reins to the rings of the bit, hold the reins in their hands and sit in the wagon on the right side.

Ivanova G.V.
horse harness
Practical guide

Sooner or later, most Vyatka owners have a desire or need to harness a horse to a wagon. But not everyone has an experienced assistant at hand, and in books you can find only very superficial instructions for harnessing.
Therefore, I will describe here not only the order of the harness, but also some of the subtleties of fitting equipment.

To begin with - about the structure of the harness and its purpose.
Harness (harness)- a device for harnessing a horse to a cart. The harness must be selected for each horse and precisely fitted to it in order not to cause traumatic injuries, to ensure free movement of the limbs and body, and not to impede the breathing of the animal during work.
There are several types of harness. We will consider the composition of the Russian single-horse arc harness.

1. bridle with rein
2. collar
3. saddle
4. girth
5. harness
6. interlacement and underbelly
7. rein
8. arc

1. Bridle.
Serves to control the horse.
By changing the length of the shoulder and cheek straps, the bridle is adjusted to the horse's head so that the bit slightly raises the corners of the mouth by 1-2 folds. The head strap and carry strap should be loose enough to fit 1-2 fingers under them. A fist must pass freely between the ganaches and the chinstrap.
If the owner does not want to use the bit, he leaves the bit under the chin, control is due to the pressure of the carrying strap on the nose bones of the horse.

1. bit(snaffle)
2. bit rings(snaffle rings)
3. judicious(occipital) belt.
4. 2 cheek, which, with a joint, fix the snaffle in the horse's mouth.
5. chin, which prevents the bridle from slipping forward from the horse's head.
6. forehead, which prevents the bridle from slipping back onto the horse's neck.
7. portable, for additional fixation.
8. occasion with lanyard(9), for fixing the horse at the hitching post and driving on the bit.

2. Collar. It serves to transfer the horse's draft effort to the wagon (85-88%).

• clamp
• ticks

1. soup
2. tugs, for connecting the clamp with the shafts and the arc.
3. tire
4. felt lining
5. hort- belt for fastening the harness.
6. rings, for reins (based on tugs)

The size of the collar is determined by the length and width of the horse's neck. The length is measured with a rigid meter. To do this, it is applied along the base of the neck and the distance from the crest at the beginning of the withers to the shoulder joint is measured. To the figure obtained, add 6 cm for a cart collar, 3 cm for a passenger and arable collar. The width of the neck is measured with a Wilkens compass in the widest part - at its base.

Clamp No.	clamp length	collar width
Tolerance + 0.5 / + 0.2

The length of the clamp is measured from the upper inner point of the clamp lining to the lower inner edge of the pincers, and the width is measured at the level of the horse-drawn openings.

A correctly fitted collar rests on the inside of the neck crest at the beginning of the withers, on the sides lies on the muscles located in front of the axis of the scapula; in the lower part of the scapula (on the humeroscapular joint) the chomutina is located above the falcon, at the base of the neck.
Approximately dressed - the palm should extend from the collar with an edge ( inner part collar) to the upper part of the humeroscapular tubercle.

Clamp fits:

The collar is large - the collar almost lies on the shoulder-scapular joint and hangs over the sternum falcon:

The clamp is small in size - it squeezes the muscles of the neck on the sides; on top, the clamp lies high above the withers; below the collar lies at the base of the neck, high above the falcon of the sternum.

3. Saddle. It serves to secure and support the entire harness by means of a saddle and to transfer the draft force to the horse's back (12-15%).
The saddle is humpbacked (for horses with high withers) and recumbent (for horses well-fed, with low withers).

1. archak
2. shelves
3. sweatshirt
4. lid(leather or linoleum)
5. prirugi(horts)
6. temples, through which the interlace is passed

4. Cinch. Designed to hold the saddle on the horse's back. The webbing girth has a leather patch with holes for threading the underbelly.
5. Harness. Serves to hold the collar in place when descending the horse from the mountain, sudden braking, reining.
The harness is adjusted in such a way that a palm passes between the ischial tuberosities and the headband.

Consists of several belts:
1. rim(side). Curls around the sides and back of the horse. Has buckles for attaching to a collar.
2. longitudinal. Runs along the spine. It also has a buckle for attaching to a collar.
3. 2 welt straps. They start from the end of the longitudinal on the horse's croup.
4. 2-3 side straps. Connect the longitudinal and rim.
5. loops(lobes), for additional fixation of the harness (sometimes with decorative tassels)
6. Interlace. The belt passing through the saddle is fixed at both ends to the shafts. Supports the mass of the collar, arches and shafts on the back of the horse, transfers part of the draft force to the saddle.
Underbelly. The belt, passing under the girth, is fixed at both ends to the shafts. Does not allow a sharp fluctuation of the shaft and clamp up and down.
7. Reins. Used to control the horse. The ends of the reins are fastened to the rings of the bit.
8. Arc. It fastens with the help of tugs a clamp with the shafts of the wagon and plays the role of a shock absorber, softening the jolts from bumps in the road and jerks when starting the cart.
On the arc there is a ring for pulling the reins and two cutouts at the ends where the shafts lie.

Harness order

1 . The harness begins with cleaning and examining the horse, examining the integrity of the harness, cart.
We check whether the length of the tugs is the same. Trim if necessary, otherwise the harness will be uneven and warp in motion.
2 . We roll out the wagon to a free flat area, take out the reins, the arc, the crossbar.
3 . The saddle and underbelly are two separate belts, sewn to one ring at one end. We pass both belts through the ring so that a loop is formed. We put this loop on the left shaft (hereinafter, all directions relative to the horse).

4 . We put on a horse a bridle, a saddle, a collar. Make it more convenient even in the stall.
We put the saddle on about lower half withers. If you put the saddle completely on the withers, it will be too high, if behind the withers on the back, it will be too low.
First, we turn the clamp upside down with pincers, put it on the head, in the upper (narrowest) part of the neck we turn the clamp towards the mane back with pincers down, lower it onto the shoulders, straighten the mane from under the clamp.

5 . We put the helmet on the withers and straighten it towards the croup, fasten the buckles of the harness to the straps on the collar. If there is only an upper gort on the collar, then we fasten the buckles of the side belt at the base of the tug.
We adjust the helmet in size so that a palm passes between the headband and buttocks.
6 . We take the horse out into the yard, start it in shafts.
There are three ways to get a horse into the shafts:

• Lead through shafts. Suitable for horses that are good at stepping over poles.
• Put in front of the wagon and besiege in shafts. Suitable for compliant horses.
• Roll the shafts ON the horse. It is more often used for young or shy horses.

7 . We take an arc, stand in front of the shafts facing the horse. We attach the arc to the right leg. We take the tug with the left hand.
In the process of work, rawhide tugs are stretched, so usually the tug is twisted 1-2-3 times, depending on its length, adjusting it to a specific harness. If the farm uses one horse in the same shafts, and the tugs are braided, then there is no need to twist them, it is enough to adjust the length of the tugs and periodically align them.
We put the shaft on the tug so that the tug lies at a distance of about 1-2 palms from the end of the shaft. We take an arc in front of us, a ring from us. We insert the left end of the arc into the loop of the tug. We shift the end of the arc through the shaft in front of the tug. At the same time, we turn the arc with the ring forward, so that the shaft lies in the cutout of the arc. I put the arc on the horse's neck.

8 . We pass to the second shaft. We apply the arc with a notch to the shaft at an equal distance, with the first tug. We take the second tug and, if necessary, twist it exactly as many times as the first was twisted. We impose it on the shaft behind the arc.
We pull the tug: with the left shoulder we rest against the shaft, with the same hand we take the tongs and pull it towards us with force. With the right hand we put the loop on the arc.

9. We tighten the clamp. Standing to the left of the horse, wrap the supon around the ticks once. Resting our foot on the pincers, we tighten the supon with all our might. We wrap and tighten the supon again. Be sure to tighten the belt with great effort! If the supon tightens easily, then it is necessary to remove the arc and twist the tug more strongly.

10. We tie the soup. thumb right hand we hold the strap, with our left hand we press on the right tick, and we pass the tip of the suponi down into the gap formed. We tighten the supon until it stops. We pass the tip up.

In the loop formed, skip the second loop. We tighten.
Do not try to pull on the loop itself, just pull up the first loop, and then tighten the second.

After that, wrap the loop with the end of the suponi. Fold the end in half and thread through the end of the loop. The supon is tied.

After tightening the pincers and tying the suponi, the arc should be perpendicular to the shafts and not oscillate forward and backward when pressed with a hand.

11. We pass to the left shaft. The distance from the tugs to the loop of the saddle should be approximately 40 cm, i.e. the distance of the bent arm, from the elbow to the fingertips.
We straighten the saddle and thread the saddle through the shackle. We straighten the underbelly and thread the girth through the loop.

12. We put the horse in the collar: we move the horse one step forward or, if it is more convenient, we move the cart back so that the collar fits snugly on the shoulders.
13. Let's go to the other side. We take the underbelly, pull it up and throw it over the shaft so that the horse does not step on it. We pull up the interlace and wrap it around the shafts, away from us. The distance from the saddle to the tugs on both shafts should be the same.
We tighten the saddle: with the left hand we pull the belt through the saddle, raising the left shaft, with the right hand we pull the end of the belt, raising the right shaft. Thus we raise the clamp.
Raise the shafts so that between the yoke and the horse's neck (comb and throat) pass about 3-4 fingers. Thus, the horse can raise and lower its neck as needed.

14. There are many ways to tie a tie, the principle is the same for everyone. I will describe two methods.
First way: after the clamp has been raised, we throw the tip of the cross-bar from right to left through the belt and under the shafts towards ourselves. We wrap around the shafts from the bottom up in front of the belt.

We skip the tip under the belt from right to left, throw it from above, make a loop and thread it into the hole formed. We tighten.

Second way: After the clamp has been raised, we wrap the stilted shaft around the shaft, first in front of the belt, then behind it, i.e. eight. Then we throw the tip over the belt from right to left, make a loop and pass it into the hole formed. We tighten.

In any case, the final loop lies in front of the interlace.
It is necessary to make sure that the shafts are raised evenly, otherwise the harness will warp when moving!

15. We put the abdominal belt over the loop of the interlace. With force we pull the belt down and shift it through the underbelly, for additional fixation. We wrap the underbelly around the shaft.

We fold the tip of the underbelly and pass it through the loop of the interlace. We tighten the loop with force.

The cross-bar tied at the back keeps the underbelly from slipping along the shaft during movement.

16. Check the girth and, if necessary, tighten it.
17. Let's move on to the head of the horse. We cross the occasion so that it does not hang out, and we throw it around the neck. We pass the lanyard through the ring of the arc and tie it to one of the tugs to such a length that the horse can freely stretch its neck, but cannot bend too low. If the occasion is short, it is enough to wrap the lanyard around the arc and tie on the ring.
18. We fix the harness: we throw long straps with tassels over the shafts so that they do not get confused at the horse's legs. If there are loops with fasteners, we fasten them to the shafts.
19. We fasten the reins to the rings of the bit. If there are rings on the tugs, we pass the reins through them. If there are no rings, you need to skip one rein under the tug, the second above the tug.
In the event that the horse will carry, this will give additional control.

Remember, proper fit and harness will minimize the chance of injury to your horse!

We stretch in reverse order:

• we unfasten the reins,
• untie the occasion
• we untie the cross-bar (to do this, just pull the tip of the underbelly and unwind the belts), pull them out on the other side,
• let's loosen the soup
• we remove the tugs and the arc,
• we tie the supon to the tug so that it does not tear,

• remove the clamp. You can not unfasten the helmet, but gather it around your neck, tie it with a cord to the collar and take it off with it. IN next time the helmet can be put on with a collar,
• we remove the saddle, hang it on the collar, throw the girth.
• We take the horse to the stall, remove the bridle.
• We return to the wagon. We remove the belts from the shaft.
• We wind the crossedel and reins:

We take the reins with one hand by the buckles (the saddle with the underbelly at the ends). With the second hand we wrap around the elbow, putting it into the palm. We wrap the tip a couple of times around the coiled reins and thread it into the upper hole. Lightly tighten. We hang for the resulting loop (ring of the interlace).

• We carry all the ammunition into the harness, put the wagon in place.

At first glance, everything seems so complicated, but after a few independent harnesses, you will no longer get confused in names, belts and knots.
Good luck!

European shaft-line harness

Clamp-on-line buckle

Drawbar harness sequence

Line-drawing harness - steam room. It is used when working on horseback in agricultural carts and implements with a drawbar. Before harnessing the horses, it is necessary to align the traces, bibs and stripes. After the bridles and collars are put on the horses, they are placed on the right and left sides of the drawbar, depending on their position in the harness. Then, a stripe is put on the end of the drawbar or the front roller and fixed in the bib ring. The patches fix the position of the clamp and the tension of the lines. Bibs are fixed for the collar of the collar and for the lines. The latter are fixed on the roll in the following sequence: first the inner, and then the outer line. After that, the reins are fastened. The clamp with a line-drawbar harness should be somewhat shorter than with a furious-arc harness.

Line harness (without drawbar and shaft)

This type of harness is used in harnessing, in agricultural implements (plow, harrow), in skidding forests. When performing these works, it is recommended to use a saddle and a saddle.

Method of harnessing horses

The first letter is "v"

Second letter "y"

Third letter "n"

The last beech is the letter "s"

Answer for the clue "How to harness horses", 5 letters:
takeaway

Alternative questions in crossword puzzles for the word takeaway

Removal of the body from the apartment for burial

In the Moscow state - a duty levied for unloading goods

big win

Method of harnessing horses when one or more of them are harnessed to the side or front

Way to sell beer

Transportation on your own two

Moving, delivering outside, beyond something

Word definitions for takeaway in dictionaries

New explanatory and derivational dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova. The meaning of the word in the dictionary New explanatory and derivational dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova.
m. The process of action by value. verb: to endure (1,2,4,6). Exit with the body of the deceased for burial. m. A method of harnessing horses, in which one or more of them are harnessed to the side or in front. Riding with such a harness. Each one harnessed in this way...

Dictionary Russian language. D.N. Ushakov The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov
takeaway, pl. no, m. Action on verb. take out in 5 digits. (specialist.). Bringing the left leg forward. Carrying out (the deceased) for burial. Removal from the apartment. The removal of the body to the crematorium. The method of harnessing horses when one or more of them are harnessed to the side or in front ....

Examples of the use of the word takeaway in the literature.

Arslan and Aibek were surrounded by others, those who were busy removal soil.

While a firewall may protect against unauthorized access to critical data, it does not prevent employees from copying data to tape or floppy disk and removal it outside the network.

But the monuments of the river, in the form of sand offsets, still lay on the herd estate, and for their overgrowth, twigs of shelyuga and black twigs were planted in the sand, and between those twigs and native burdocks lay empty gourds of great size.

When foreman Shpator flew like a rooster at Buldakov, at Kolya Ryndin, a new settler of the first company of Poptsov, already worn out in the garbage heaps, cut short on firewood, lathered for mopping and takeaway sewage, suddenly went on the offensive: - Barefoot and naked no one.

The stage smells of an abandoned house, an unsung song, Oh, how it smells of beer fences and secular gossip, Ashes, sweat, dog teams, stupid jokes, Powder, vobla, holey vest, cheap puncture, And solemn removal litter of backstage hell, It smells very much of the offended gaze of a forgotten child.

Igor Nikolaev

Reading time: 4 minutes

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In the city, the ability to harness a horse is of little use. Unless people who organize horseback riding as leisure should have these skills. But rural residents still often use these animals in their households, since horses are often cheaper than a tractor or car that constantly requires refueling.

Here, without the ability to properly saddle a horse or harness a horse to a cart (in summer) or to a sleigh (in winter), one cannot do without. Without proper experience and knowledge, harnessing an animal can be fraught with certain difficulties. To remember in detail all the stages of this process, it is necessary to do it not one or two, but a large number of times. However, there is always something to do for the first time. This article is just about the correct sequence of this process.

Before you start harnessing a horse, you need to figure out what is included in its harness.

Any harness has the following necessary elements:

• bridle. It is the main part of the horse harness. Its purpose is to control the horse while moving. The bridle consists of the following elements: a bit, their rings, a neck strap, two straps located on the cheeks, one strap on the chin and one on the forehead;
• clamp. The main purpose is the transfer of traction from the horse to the cart. Consists of: pincers, tugs, collar itself, tire, felt lining, gort and ring. To avoid squeezing the animal's neck, the collar must be loose;
• saddle. A special device with which the harness is fixed and supported. With it, the horse pulls the wagon 15 percent better;
• girth. A device for attaching a saddle to a horse;
• harness. One of the most important elements of harness. With its help, the collar is held. It also prevents him from slipping if the horse accelerates sharply or, conversely, slows down. It consists of a set of straps that regulate the position of the horse in the harness and keep it in it;
• interlace. It is a belt that passes through the saddle and is attached to the shaft of the wagon. It is he who holds the collar, arcs and shafts on the horse's back. The interlock is also involved in the transfer of traction from the animal to the wagon;
• underbelly. Fastened under the girth and fixed on the shaft. Looks like another strap;
• rein. Purpose - management of a harnessed horse;
• arc. Last on the list, but not the least important harness. Serves for connection of a collar and shafts. The arc is attached with the help of tugs and is a kind of shock absorber that softens the shocks and jerks of the cart, thereby facilitating the work of the animal.

So, what the harness consists of, figured out. It's time to go directly to harnessing the horse to the wagon. We will describe the stages of this process using the example of a one-horse Russian team.

Proper harnessing of a horse consists in the following steps in sequence:

• inspect and clean the horse. Then inspect visually and check with your hands all the elements of the harness for their integrity. Make sure that none of the elements are frayed, torn or otherwise weak. Compare the tugs for length. If they are different, align them, otherwise the harness will be skewed and normal movement will not work;
• after a preliminary inspection, bring all the elements of the harness to the place of harness;
• the underbelly and the interlacement are connected by one ring. Take them and pass the straps through this ring so that you get a loop. Throw this loop on the shaft;
• then put on the collar, saddle and bridle on the horse itself. The saddle should be placed so that it is on the lower part of the withers of the animal. It will still be necessary to look for its optimal location, since it is too low on the back, and a bit high on the withers itself. The clamp should be put on only upwards with tongs, and only then lowered onto the neck and turned over to the working position. It is necessary to put the clamp so that it comfortably covers the neck of the animal;
• we put the helmet on the withers of the horse and begin to straighten it. Straps need to be connected with buckles. We tighten the belts so that a human palm crawls between them and the ischial tuberosity;
• we start the horse in shafts. This can be done in several ways: either the horse steps over the pole, or it is started in reverse, or the shaft itself is rolled onto a stationary horse. The latter method is usually used when harnessing a young or shy animal;
• we take the arc and stand in front of the horse's muzzle, looking at it. We lean the arc against the right leg of the horse, and twist the tug with the left hand until it becomes the desired length;
• we leave the tug at the edge of the shaft. We take the arc and insert its left edge into the horse-drawn loop, and the right one - we throw the shafts over the pole, which should be in the cutout. The arc itself should be on the horse's neck;
• we approach the second shaft and turn the arc towards it so that it falls into the recess. We put the tug on the shaft, and with its loop we fasten it to the arc;
• after that we tighten the clamp, wrapping its pliers with supon until they close. In this case, it must be ensured that the angle between the arc and the shafts is 90 degrees;
• we tie the horse to the pole of the left shaft. We insert the clamp after pulling the animal one step back;
• we put the elements of the harness on the head of the animal. We throw a halter around the neck, fasten the lanyard to the tug. This should be done so that after fastening the horse can raise his head. In order not to hang out, we throw the belts over the shafts;
• last of all, we attach the reins to the bits. It is best to skip one rein over the tug, and the second - under it.

Single furious-arc Russian harness

Currently, there are three main types of harnessing these animals to the wagon:

In European countries, the multi-window harness is divided into four-horse, six-horse and eight-horse, depending on the number of horses.

Harness is of the following types:

• arc;
• arcless;
• transport;
• visiting.

When harnessing two horses, a line-drawbar harness is often used.

Often such a team is the only one available for agricultural work. However, to use this method, the cart or sleigh must be equipped with a drawbar in advance. It is another shaft, which is attached in the middle.

Each person understands different things by rest: someone is attracted by a sunny resort, someone goes to conquer mountain peaks. There are also people who only dream of going to the wilderness, to the village, and for a while to take a break from all the benefits of civilization and the turmoil they bring, and try to live the way its permanent inhabitants live: bring water from a well, clean the path from snow , harness the horse. If everyone can cope with the first two points, then far from everyone can prepare the horse for the trip on their own. Let's look at how a horse is harnessed.

The harness is essentially a set of accessories for harnessing a horse connected together, with which you can attach any kind of carriage to the animal for trips:

• sled;
• wagon, etc.

Without a harness, it will not be possible to use a horse as a cab for several people or cargo, since otherwise it is impossible to attach the crew securely for a person and comfortable for an animal.

The harness consists of many different elements interconnected for the purpose of connecting a vehicle to an animal.

Let's look at what components the harness consists of.

Table 1. What the harness consists of

Detail	Description
Bridle	With the help of a bridle, the driver can control the horse, indicating to him where and at what speed to go. It is part of the harness, and consists of: bit; bit rings; occipital strap; Cheek straps Frontal belt chin strap.
clamp	This part is a component that transmits horse power to the cart that the animal is carrying. Clamp details: tugs; ticks; Felt lining clamp; Tire mountains · ring. If the collar is made too narrow, then it can squeeze the animal's neck, making it uncomfortable to move, therefore, the collar is always made loose.
Saddle	This item is also part of the harness. Its tasks are: · fasten the harness; support her. Provided that the saddle is made with high quality, it can increase the horse's initial traction by about 15%.
Girth	This device is a fixation of the saddle on the horse. She also holds the clamp, causing its constant, fixed position even during: · acceleration; braking. The girth is made of belts.
Interlaced	This detail is also a belt, which, passing through the saddle, is strengthened to the shaft. The function of the interlace is to keep on the horse: clamp shafts; arcs. In addition, the saddle also works to transfer traction from the animal to the wagon.
underbelly	Another belt attached to the shaft. It is located at a level below the girth.
Rein	The role of this part is to give the driver the opportunity to control the horse throughout the trip.
Arc	This element connects: clamp · shafts. In this case, tugs are also used. In fact, the arc is the role of a shock absorber, which tries to soften all the bumps and jerks of the cart that could potentially harm the horse.

How to harness a horse

Now that we have figured out what a harness is, we can proceed to consider the procedure for harnessing a horse into it. It is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, so read carefully.

Instruction number 1 - how to harness a horse

Step #1 – cleaning and inspection of the horse

A good owner knows: before going anywhere and harnessing an animal, you need to inspect and clean it. The fact is that the wounds on the body of the animal, if any, may increase due to high load, or will be rubbed with harness straps. And a sick animal should not take you somewhere at all, it should, on the contrary, gain strength.

It is necessary to clean the animal so that the dirt mixed with sweat does not rub into the skin of the animal, causing the development of inflammation.

Cleaning the animal is carried out in several stages:

1. At the beginning, we will work with a rubber comb, with the help of which we will collect from the fleshy parts of the animal's body:

• dirt;
• foreign objects that could get stuck in the horse's fur.

Making circular motions, walk the comb all over the horse's body, while avoiding:

• front part;
• protruding bones;
• zones of the spine;

2. Then we move on to cleansing the horse's body with a special brush equipped with hard bristles. With her, we will already carefully comb the wool, taking out of it what the comb could not remove. In addition, with this brush:

• dead hair is combed;
• the skin of the horse is massaged, due to which its blood circulation improves.

However, you can’t comb your hair and mane with the same brush, just as you can’t touch it:

• the muzzle of a horse;
• stomach;
• other "short-haired" parts of the body.

3. Next, a brush with soft bristles is used, with which the process of cleansing the horse's body is completed. It removes small residues of dirt by combing and massaging the horse's body even more actively. It is already possible to comb through all areas of the body, however, with increased caution in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facial zone.

Please note: there are special brushes for cleansing the faces of horses, and it is better, of course, to use them during the cleaning process.

• muzzle and eye area;
• under the tail.

Since these areas are always excessively moistened, mucus and other substances can accumulate in them, which accumulate bacteria, which then penetrate the animal's body and disrupt its work.

5. After the main procedures are over, it will be necessary to comb the mane and tail.

6. Finally, if you harness a horse in the summer, it will come in handy to spray its skin with a special remedy for annoying insects.

Step #2 - inspect harness

Having taken care of the beauty and health of the horse, it is necessary to think about its convenience and safety by checking the integrity of the harness. You should take the device and look at every centimeter of it, looking for:

• cracks;
• breaks;
• worn areas, etc.

If you find them, you will need to replace the unusable part of the harness. If you really can’t do this, then take another device, newer and whole.

Step #3 - start harnessing

So, for starters, take those connected to the ring:

• interlace;
• underbelly.

In order for us to get a loop, it is necessary to pass the belts through the desired ring. The resulting circle of belts must be put on the shaft.

• clamp, while we place the pliers in the upward direction, and only then we lower the part onto the neck and turn it over;
• a saddle, laying it so that it is not on the back and not on the withers, but somewhere on the lower part between them;
• bridle.

• belts;
• buckles.

It is necessary to tighten the straps exactly until the moment when a human palm fits between them and the buttocks.

Step number 4 - we start the horse in the shaft

We have come to the stage when it is time to take our ward into a shaft prepared in advance for the trip. You can do this in three ways:

• roll the device onto an animal quietly waiting in a standing position;
• force the animal to step over one of the poles of the device;
• lead the horse into the shaft in reverse.

The first method is great for working with young stallions and mares, not yet experienced and shy.

Now you will need to take the arc and stand directly in front of the animal, while looking at his face. Now the arc needs to be brought closer to the right limb of the horse, and on the left side, adjust the tug to the required length, subsequently securing it right at the end of the shaft.

Set the left end of the arc into the loop of the tug, and the right end will need to be shifted through the shaft.

The free shaft will need to be brought closer to the arc, after turning it with a notch in the right direction. Then, by analogy, the tug is laid along the shaft, and the loop clings to the arc.

• to tighten the clamp;
• tightly tighten the supon over the ticks.

Now carefully make sure that the shafts and the arc are at right angles to each other.

Step #5 - Move on to harnessing the head and neck

So, now we need to put a reason on the horse's neck, and attach such an element as a lanyard to the tug, making the connection in such a way that the horse still has the opportunity to raise his head. The belt part of the device must be thrown over the shafts so that they do not hang freely.

Now we will attach the reins to the bit:

• one of which must be carried out under the tug;
• and the second above the tug.

Hooray, you harnessed a horse for the first time, congratulations!

Video - How to harness a horse

How to unharness a horse

Perhaps many of you will be surprised, but you also need to be able to unharness the horse correctly. Now we will tell you how to do it.

Instruction number 2 - how to unharness a horse

Step number 1 - remove the load

In order not to cause great damage to the body of the horse carrying the load, before removing the harness and other ammunition from it, you need to remove the desired load and let the animal walk without it for about 10-15 minutes.

Even if the horse was carrying a small load, give him some time to recover after the ride.

Step #2 - loosen the girths

Step #3 - finish stretching

As soon as the 15 minutes indicated by us earlier have passed, you will need to unharness the horse to the end by doing the following:

• first disconnect and pull the reins from the arc, and then throw them off the neck;
• untie the knot of the abdomen, as well as the interlace;
• remove the straps from the shafts;
• unwind and remove the supon;
• slightly loosen the clamp and disconnect the arc;
• lower the shafts and take the horse out of them.

Step #4 - carry out additional procedures

Your horse has worked hard to get you to ride fast and comfortably. We need to thank him for this by courting him after removing the harness.

If it is a warm summer outside, you need to thoroughly wipe the horse from sweat with damp rags. And vice versa, if it is cool, then you need to cover the pet with a blanket and take him to the stable.

Step number 5 - we process the harness

The removed harness must also be thoroughly cleaned and checked for damage caused during operation. If they are found, immediately return the device for repair.

Harness methods

The type of harness that you met in the above instructions is far from the only way to put a harness on a horse. In fact, there are several types of harnesses. In our country, three of them are most often used:

• harness of one horse;
• harness of two horses;
• harnessing many horses.

In Europe, the last of these types of buckles is also divided into:

• a team of four horses;
• six horses;
• eight horses.

In addition to the fact that the number of horses in the harness may vary, the harness itself is also made in different versions:

• arc;
• without arc;
• transport;
• exit type, etc.

Of course, if you are an amateur, and you just got aesthetic pleasure from the procedure of harnessing a horse, then you can get by with the simplest options. However, experienced horse breeders and villagers, for whom horses are still important household helpers, will have to explore a few more options.

Video - European harness

Summing up

How to harness a horse is a question that sooner or later you will want to ask lovers of these graceful animals. And it doesn’t matter if you became a horse breeder, or just went to such an unusual entertainment, or went to live in the village. The main thing is that you had to comprehend this science, and now is the time to do it. Do not forget that it is not enough just to learn how to harness a horse mechanically. It is necessary to develop intuition in order to begin to understand how the animal is comfortable and how not, how less the harness will wear out. An efficient owner will spend quite a bit of time trying to figure it out, and if he has the desire, he will succeed.