I've been planning on making a homemade bow for a while now and finally made it!

The handle is my own design and consists of three types of wood that look great together. I used skis as bow limbs, because they bend well and are accessible - using them made the task much easier, because I did not have to invent something myself.

Each step is equipped with detailed pictures that will make it easier for you to understand how to make a bow with your own hands. I want to note that this project was not too complicated.

To assemble a bow at home, you will need materials from the following lists.

For handles:

• Solid piece of hardwood 8*61*6.5 cm (I created mine by gluing together three different types of wood)
• Pencil and paper to design the handle
• Jigsaw (for sawing the handle)
• wood glue
• Lots of clips
• Sandpaper and belt sander
• Rasp for wood
• Epoxy
• Wood stains and varnishes

For the bow arms:

• Cross Country Ski Set
• Ruler
• Saw with fine teeth for sawing skis
• Drill and its components
• Dye
• Round file for wood

Additional materials:

• bowstring
• Bow arrows
• paper targets

Step 1: Designing the Handle

The first step in making a bow is to design the handle. This will depend appearance your bow. I started by looking at bows online and trying to make simple sketches of what I liked. In general, you need to follow a few basic rules, here they are:

• The length of the handle should be between 40 and 61 cm. My handle is about 50 cm long.
• The place for the arrow should be exactly in the middle of the handle
• The hand position should be immediately below the boom.
• Bow Shoulder Angles - Most commercially made bows come with 15-20 degree limbs.

Since I was going to use cross-country skis as the limbs, I decided to cut the angle down to 10 degrees so my bow limbs would sit more straight. The reason I did this is because the skis are very flexible, and I wanted to get the most power out of the bow.

I am good at Google Sketchup and have done a simple 3D model of what the handle will look like before sanding. This is optional, but generally helped the project.

Step 2: Choose wood and glue it

Show 4 more images

Choosing wood for a bow is not that difficult and there is only one main rule here (but, to be honest, a bow will work anyway).

The main rule is to use hardwood. Solid wood will make the bow more durable and powerful. Also, solid wood usually has a beautiful pattern. I picked up 4 pieces of wood:

• Zebra tree - 7.5 * 61 * 4 cm
• Amaranth - 7.5 * 61 * 4 cm
• Paduk - 2 by 7.5 * 61 * 1 cm

Note: I wanted a beautiful and elegant handle, so I bought expensive woods. Any solid wood will work for this project.

I sawed the zebra tree and the amaranth in half and glued them together, letting the glue dry for 24 hours.

After that, I leveled the resulting workpiece with a hand planer and glued Paduk bars to them. After the glue dries, there may be gaps between the rocks. I filled them with clear epoxy. As a result, I got a monolithic piece of glued wood measuring 8 * 61 * 6.5 cm.

Step 3: Cut out the handle

Draw your handle design on paper and transfer it to the wood first with a pencil and then with a marker (marker is much brighter and easier to cut on).

With a jigsaw, I made a series of cuts perpendicular to the handle - this simplified the carving process. The resulting workpiece looked angular and had saw marks on it, but this is nothing to worry about, since we will sand it down next.

Step 4: Sanding and shaping the handle

Of course, this is not the most fast way wood shaping, but I only had a belt sander handy, so I turned it upside down and sanded the handle in this way.

I just worked on the handle until it started to take the shape that I wanted. After I got close to my ideal, I took a wood file and went through those places on the handle that the tape machine could not reach.

Sanding Tips:

• Always move the handle so that you don't remove too much wood from one spot.
• When working at awkward angles, be careful not to sand wood from a part of the handle that you are not watching.
• Take time to work - take breaks, because you have nowhere to rush
• Wear a respirator and goggles to protect yourself from wood dust.
• Don't forget earplugs - grinding will take a long time - don't ruin your hearing
• Sand until you get the right shape

Step 5: Making the Handles

For the handles, I took a couple of old skis. I bought them at a local used sporting goods store for 1000r. For a good bow tension, measure from the tip of the skis a distance of 50 - 65 cm. I cut mine at a distance of 60 cm.

Then I folded the bow and figured out how everything would look in the final.

Step 6: Attaching the Bow Arms

Attaching the limbs of the bow is very simple, but the work must be done accurately. For fastening you will need:

• 2 bolts x 8 cm
• 2 bolts x 5 cm
• 4 washers
• 4 nuts with wings

Do everything according to the points:

1. Mark on the skis the place where on the back of the bow ends their contact with the tree.
2. Mark on the skis exactly in the middle of the point where you are going to drill holes. I made marks at a distance of 2.5 and 5 cm.
3. Tape the skis to the wood as firmly as possible and in the place where you want them to be in the finished version.
4. Once the wood and skis are fastened together, use a wood and plastic cue ball to drill a through hole. Choose a cue ball according to your bolts.

Using a hole punch, drill holes on the back of the handle for the bolt heads. Make the holes deep enough so that the bolt heads just sink into the handle.

After all the holes are drilled, use a nail and hammer to drive the bolts into the holes (I adjusted the hole so the bolts stay permanently in the handle), then place the limbs on the handle and tighten them with washers and nuts.

Using a round file, create grooves for the bowstring. Make notches at an angle from the middle of the bow to help hold the bowstring.

Step 7: Check

At this stage, I already have a finished bow, but before the final painting it had to be checked.

Here is a short test video.

In the video, shooting at close range - from about 6 meters. I didn't mean to hurt anyone. therefore, I pulled the bow by about 50-75% of the maximum.

Step 8: Final Polishing and Finishing the Handle

Now that we know the bow shoots well, we can make it look nicer. I polished the bow and put a stain on it, and then left it for 1 day.

Step 9: Painting and patterning

How to make a folding bow with your own hands

Now we can make a collapsible bow on our own

Hello,

On this site, we have looked at several designs homemade crossbows , but there was one. I decided to fill the gap and I want to bring to your attention homemade collapsible bow. This bow is good because it can be disassembled at any time and placed in a case or bag, which is very convenient for transportation.

Let's start manufacturing collapsible bow from its basis - handles.

We will use the following material: a bar of birch or beech, 60x40x400 mm in size, or from twenty mm waterproof plywood glued together with epoxy glue, which you can easily purchase at your nearest building materials store.

Now we need to do bow handle outline and cut it out with a jigsaw. Now we use a semicircular chisel and a rasp. We need to give the handle such an original shape.

We drill holes with a diameter of eight millimeters for the bolts using a conventional drill, and process the handle of the future bow with sandpaper, first large, then fine zero. We buy bolts in a fastener store, there is a huge variety of them and there will be no problems with the selection. Between the handle and the shoulders of the bow, we put leather gaskets under the bolts.

Everything, the handle is almost ready, it remains to cover it with stain or varnish for beauty. A similar design of the handle is designed for a bow with a bowstring tension of up to ten kilograms. For more powerful bows, it is not recommended to use this handle, to put it mildly, due to the possibility of breaking it and subsequent injury. But I don't think anyone needs a bow that only a medieval knight can draw.

However, if there are such lovers, then the handle should be made according to the principle of a sandwich, as shown in the photo below. All layers are carefully glued with epoxy glue and clamped into clamps. After drying, we carry out all the manipulations described above. By the way, the inner layers should be made from a denser tree, such as maple, walnut.

Next, let's proceed to making bow limbs. The shoulders can be made from a thick twelve-millimeter lamella, or from two eight-millimeter ones, which we glue together with Moment D-2 PVA glue and clamp with a clamp.

After drying, we cut the lamellas along and get blanks for both shoulders.

The shoulder should be seven hundred millimeters long, thirty millimeters wide at the handle and twenty-five millimeters at the bowstring attachment. For such shoulders, you need a "puff handle", as they will turn out to be quite powerful. Now we make shelves for the bowstring. From the remnants of the lamellas, we cut out two plates a little wider than the shoulder itself, apply them to the ends of the shoulders and drill through holes, then we hammer in the chopsticks smeared with glue, having previously lubricated the shelves themselves, and clamp it all into a clamp for drying for at least a day.

In general, haste in the manufacture of a high-quality and reliable bow is inappropriate. Any parts to be glued must be thoroughly dried for the time recommended on the glue. Next, we compress the workpieces together using clamps, and process the sides, giving them the identity according to the above dimensions.

On the shelves we make markings and grind them, for example, giving them such a shape.

We make cuts for a depth of seven millimeters and a width of three millimeters. Now it remains to paint the shoulders with stain and varnish.

All, our collapsible bow is ready and you can experience it when shooting at targets, as well as pride in our diligence, quick wit and direct hands

Let's start with making a bow handle. Immediately make a reservation that the materials of manufacture depend on the tension of the bowstring. If the tension force is up to 10 kg., Then the handle can be made from a solid wooden block 60x40x400, beech or birch (pine is not suitable for these purposes).

Let's start by making a bow handle. Immediately make a reservation that the materials of manufacture depend on the tension of the bowstring. If the tension force is up to 10 kg., Then the handle can be made from a solid wooden block 60x40x400, beech or birch (pine is not suitable for these purposes).

A beautiful handle is obtained from a pair of 20 mm plywood sheets glued with epoxy. After you have smeared the surface with epoxy, compress the plates in clamps. And that leaves a thickness of 40 mm.

It is only necessary to use bakelite (waterproof) plywood. It is glued with something like epoxy and it is reliable. Plain plywood is not very suitable for these purposes (it cracks).

After that, we proceed to a rough selection of shapes with a semicircular, sharp chisel (it was corrected 2 times, the epoxy strongly "plants" the tool).

A very good helper in this matter is a flat, semi-circular rasp for rough surface treatment, giving a rough shape.

Then the handle is processed with coarse sandpaper, then fine and final stage zero.

Don't forget to drill holes for the M8 bolts to mount the bow limbs.

Under the bolts between the handle and the shoulders of the bow, it is advisable to place a leather gasket (from old women's boots or jackets).

When the handle is brought to mind, it can be covered with stain and ship varnish. Plywood, as you know, consists of layers, which, when the material is selected, play on the handle. Pretty funny effect.

So that you don’t have any questions about how to make a handle for a collapsible bow, I will give a drawing (a 10x10 mm grid is applied on the drawing.). You can redraw it on graph paper.

I want to remind you that these materials for the manufacture of the handle are applicable in the case of the manufacture of a bow with a string tension force of up to 10 kg. If you use such a handle on more powerful bows, then there is a risk that the handle will not just break, but explode into splinters and injure you.

Therefore, for more powerful bows, it is necessary to make reinforced handles from a set of woods according to the sandwich principle, as, for example, in this version - the base is beech, the "filling" is maple, walnut and mahogany (for elegance). You can use any other dense tree, while the thickness of the filling does not play a special role, the main thing is that gluing is present.

All layers are coated with epoxy and clamped in clamps until completely dry. Clamps must be placed every 5-10 cm so that no voids form between the layers.

It turns out, such blanks, which in the future will be handles for a collapsible bow with a stronger tension of the bowstring.

And lovers of beauty With the presence of straight arms and a good carpentry tool, they can make not only a strong but also a beautiful handle.

Now let's start making the shoulders of the bow. The most suitable for these purposes are "elastic elements", which are used for the manufacture of sofas and beds. It is plywood, where all layers go along, with dimensions: 1200x50x12 mm, but 8 mm thick lamellas come across. and 700mm long.

Shoulder dimensions 700 mm long, 30 mm near the handle 25 mm near the bowstring mount, while the total length of the bow will be 1600 mm. A shorter bow length is not worth making, as the risk of breaking the shoulders increases. The best option when the length of the bow corresponds to the height of the shooter.

If you got lamellas 12 mm thick. it is enough to saw them along obliquely, then attach to each other and process so that they are symmetrical to each other. The pulling force of such a bow will be about 10-12 kg.

If you have lamellas with a thickness of 8 mm at your disposal, then their use for a bow will be very weak, so they will have to be strengthened.

To do this, we take two lamellas and glue them together with epoxy (we add a little less hardener so that the shoulders do not crack). But most top scores gives PVA glue "Moment" D-2, in red bottles, from the manufacturer Pritt Henkel (sold in hardware stores and construction markets).

Be sure to tighten with clamps along the entire length and wait for drying. As a result, we get lamellas with a thickness of 16mm. It may seem to many that the shoulders are from 16mm. the slats will be very tough because you simply cannot bend it in your hands. But when you assemble the bow completely, you will have no doubts about the flexibility of the lamellas. Just keep in mind, with such rigidity of the shoulders, it is advisable to use reinforced handle.

We saw the glued lamellas obliquely and get the future shoulders.

We estimate to the handle, and see how it all will look.

From scraps of lamellas we make a shelf for a bowstring. We cut out a couple of plates slightly wider than the female shoulders (for the possibility of further processing), attach the plate to the shoulder and drill two through holes, after which we generously lubricate everything with glue, and insert dowels into the holes on the glue. We squeeze with clamps and leave to dry for a day. It is best to remove the remaining glue with a rag in advance, so that when they dry, you do not fool around with their removal.

We give symmetry to both shoulders. For accuracy, with clamps, we squeeze the shoulders together and process the sides.

We outline the shape of the shelf for the bowstring. The form can be any, as your imagination allows.

The hunting bow is one of the oldest human tools used by our ancestors. These devices reached their apogee of development in the Middle Ages - and the most powerful and accurate were not English ones (as it was for a long time presented in literature), but oriental bows: Arabic, Korean and Japanese. Sighting range their shot, given the simplicity of design in comparison with modern high-tech products, reached 200–220 meters, the maximum range of the arrow was 870–880 meters, and the tension force was up to 80 kg! Hunting bows are used to this day, but the cost of some models is quite high. Therefore, we suggest that you make such a tool with your own hands.

What is a hunting bow and its varieties

Initially, hunting bows were made exclusively of wood and had a simple arched shape. Somewhat later, simple models were replaced by composite ones, which first used bone endings, and then more complex structures from separately assembled parts: a central handle, a pair of shoulders and endings. Now block compound (or Olympic) options have been added to them. However, they are not used for hunting.

Collapsible bow design

In general, the current classification of hunting bows is the following division:

1. According to the material of manufacture:
   • traditional (made of wood);
   • composite (from several materials).
2. According to the structure of the main part:
   • classic (D-shaped in a bent form, that is, with one bend);
   • recursive (M-shaped, with several bends).
3. According to the number of components:
   • simple bows - from a single piece of material;
   • collapsible models - from several components.

Photo gallery: Modern hunting with industrial bows

Bow Mathews Compound bow VilingStore Compound bow Mathews CREED

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of classic bows (both traditional simple and recursive ones) is based on the creation of a pushing force that is imparted to the bowstring when the shoulders are straightened and provides the arrow with an initial speed that depends on the tension force. At the same time, the initial speed of the boom in a simple design also depends on these factors, while in block models, eccentrics located at the ends, synchronized with each other by a system of separate cables, are responsible for accuracy and speed.

Professional compound bow It is made mainly from expensive and high-strength materials (carbon and fiberglass, magnesium and aluminum alloys, etc.) and contains a separate optical aiming system. In this regard, it is extremely difficult to make such a device on your own, and most importantly, very expensive. Therefore, further we will consider the assembly of hunting bows only of the classical type - both simple and complex recursive ones.

Photo gallery: Various designs of simple models

Materials and tools for manufacturing

To make a bow, you will need the following tools and materials:

• hacksaw;
• plane;
• strong rope (for bowstring);
• insulating tape;
• plastic tube (for PVC bows) or wood (for traditional options).

As for wood, yew is considered the best - it was from this tree that the famous English bows were made in the old days. In the absence of this rare breed, you can use larch, mountain ash, ash, hazel, willow, cedar, juniper or elm. In other words, the material must be homogeneous, flexible and beautiful.

Believe it or not, this is a homemade compound bow!

Manufacturing instructions

simple model

When making a simple PVC hunting bow, you will need a piece of SCH 40 pipe about 2.5 cm thick and a length equal to the distance between the middle of the thigh and the fingertips of the outstretched hand. After measuring 1.5 cm from both sides, make cuts. Insert and fasten the bowstring into them so that the maximum tension is approximately equal to the length of the bow.

The length of a simple bow is longer than a compound bow.

Attach to the string so that the maximum tension is approximately equal to the length of the bow

Unfortunately simple plastic bow it is difficult to call it a full-fledged hunting weapon - this will require a much more complex composite structure, in which 2 short pieces of a thin tube (to strengthen the shoulders) about 10 cm long will be inserted into the main pipe. For the handle, you will need 1 piece of a slightly larger diameter.

homemade bow PVC tube and wood. Bowstring - silk thread

When making a wooden structure, it will be necessary to cut (cut out) the main part of the bow about 5 cm wide in the central part and 1.5 cm in the side ones.

Photo gallery: Making onions in the forest from improvised means

Simple homemade bow design

Video: Homemade bow their PVC pipes

Composite

A real hunting bow should be composite, and in shape as close as possible to modern high-class sports products. As a base, it is better to use flexible and non-layered wood from the lower and dense layers of trees growing in dark areas of the forest. On the "horns" is good, for example, bird cherry, growing on open, dry, clearings far from the water.

The length of all three parts that form the kibit (base plus both horns) should not exceed 1.5 m - otherwise the bow can get more range, but much less accuracy.

Technology step by step manufacturing will be as follows:

1. The cleaned blanks are dried (not in the sun!), All 3 parts are planed and dried again. Then the base and horns are given their final look and dried already in the bright sun.
2. Kibiti elements are glued together with special store-bought glue or self-made fish glue (from digested bones or the swim bladder of large fish).
3. Ready kibit is dipped into melted animal fat (or cedar resin) for impregnation.
4. The joints are additionally pulled together with tendons or a dense flexible cord and impregnated again, after which the finished bow is processed to smoothness with a knife and, if desired, polished.

It is also possible to superficially glue the base with strips of birch bark, and the horns and ends with overlays made of natural horn (or metal). However, such strengthening and creation of layering is relevant only for weapons with a very high (more than 20 kg) pull force, which hardly makes sense when hunting birds and small animals with a bow - except in terms of decoration.

Photo gallery: DIY compound bows

Compound bows dried after gluing
Homemade compound bows

Video: How to make a compound bow at home

Accessories

Making all the components of the bow at home is even easier than the main structure.

bowstring

Can be spun from nylon cord, although real hunters prefer natural material. Which is usually blood-soaked and dried rawhide rolled into a tube 3-4 mm wide. Although it is inferior to modern, even inexpensive synthetic materials, in terms of performance. The skin should be replaced with tendons from the vertebral part of large animals - moose, cows, etc. Or a bunch of natural silk threads can be used.

The bowstring is put on simply - first with a loop on one horn, and then, bending the end of the bow resting on the ground, on the second. For a recurve bow, the distance between the string and the handle should be about 15 cm, and the string must be removed when storing the bow.

Video: How to make a bowstring

Arrows

The length of the arrows should be proportional to the length of the bow and maximum value string tension. In practice, this means that with the bow drawn, the arrowhead must protrude at least a few centimeters beyond the bow.

The diameter is approximately 6 mm, and the entire axis of the arrow must be perfectly flat. For small game and poultry, light wood is taken - spruce, pine, birch. For a larger animal - heavy and dense species (ash, hornbeam, oak). Arrows, like a torch, are pricked from logs, after which they are shaped into long and thin round cylinders.

Since childhood, many of us have dreamed of mastering the technique of archery in order to accurately hit the target from a long distance, like Chigachgook, Robin Hood and other famous characters. For some, these dreams are still alive today.

Nowadays, onions are quite easy to buy in the store. But it is much more interesting to make it yourself. So you can take into account all the individual features so that the projectile is as convenient as possible for you.

In addition, such a creation will certainly become the subject of your pride and increase the rating of personal achievements. This article contains the most clear and useful instructions and photos on how to make a bow yourself.

Varieties of bows

To begin with, let's look at what classifications of these weapons exist.

In terms of design, bows are:

• solid;
• Block;
• Collapsible.

In terms of application, bows are divided into:

• hunting;
• Fishing;
• Sports.

Based on the material, the following types of bows are distinguished:

• Wood;
• Metal;
• fiberglass;
• Combined.

In the vastness of Russia, the simplest and most economical material is wood. Next, you will find a master class on how to make a solid shooting bow from ordinary wood at home.

Design features

Regardless of the material, type and purpose, the following parts are distinguished in any bow:

• The handle is the central part from which the flight of the arrow begins;
• Shoulders - the curved ends of the bow, on which the bowstring is attached.

The optimal length of the bow and arrow depends on the height of the shooter. To calculate ideal proportions your future bow, measure the span of your hands and use the table that can be found on the Internet.

Preliminary preparation

The process of making onions takes quite a long time. What can you make onions at home from? Which tree is better to choose? What tools will be needed? By following all the recommendations, you can build a bow that will last you more than one season.

The base branch for the future onion is cut down in winter in a good minus temperature. This is necessary to keep the tree sap inside the trunk.

The length of the future base is on average about 2 meters (the length of the bow that suits you plus 30 centimeters), the diameter is about 4-5 cm. Choose straight branches with a minimum number of knots and growths. For our purpose, deciduous trees are suitable, and in particular: acacia, apple, ash, oak, hazel or juniper.

The saw cuts must be covered with paint or special oil impregnation.

We hang the branches in a vertical position and leave them to dry until warm (recommended drying time is 3-5 months at room temperature)

Manufacturing process

There are a few simple tricks that will tell you how to make a quality bow and arrow. When our base is completely dry and ready for further processing, we determine the natural bend of the tree.

To do this, we press the branch to the floor, and it automatically turns with the curved side down. Subsequently, when shaping this base, take into account the natural curves of the tree to avoid breaks and cracks.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow:

As soon as our branches have dried out, we proceed to the formation of bends.

Formation of a bend

Steaming. Using wooden blocks, fix the shoulders of the future bow in the desired position and pour over them with a generous portion of water vapor.

ATTENTION! Both shoulders must be sent at the same time, otherwise you will not avoid the curvature of the structure. Without removing the bars, leave the base in this position for another week until the wood is completely dry.

Thread tension. Prepare a special board with cuts and place it in the center of the future bow perpendicular to the base. Connect the ends of the bow with a strong thread and thread this thread into one of the cuts on the board.

Slowly unfold the board, gradually bending the base of the bow. Be extremely careful not to crack the wood. In this position, leave the design to "get used to" for 5-7 days.

Using a sharp knife or hatchet, we clean the dried base from the bark and cut off the excess wood with a planer. The bow should be about 3 cm thick. In the central part, outline the handle and make a recess for the arrow.

Adjust the length of your bow. At the ends of the shoulders, stepping back about 3 centimeters from the edges, we make recesses for the bowstring with a depth of about 3-5 mm.

We grind the resulting onion shape with a sandpaper and cover it with wax or varnish. We leave to dry.

Making a string for a bow

The first requirement for a bowstring is strength. Therefore, it is very important to choose high-quality strong material.

Base options:

• Kapron or Kevlar;
• Nylon;
• Fishing line;
• Leg-split.

The length of the string should be made smaller than the distance between the arms of the bow, so that it always remains in a taut position. To measure its exact size, bend the bow until the discrepancy between the recesses in the shoulders and the center of the bow reaches 15-17 cm. This is the optimal distance between the handle and the bowstring.

In this position, measure the distance between the gaps on the shoulders and get the length of your future bowstring. For further work, you will need a board measuring 200 by 10 cm and 2 large thick nails.

Step-by-step production of a bowstring:

Hammer the nails into the board, leaving a distance of about 150 cm between them. Unwind more of the base you have chosen and fasten it to one of the nails without tying a knot (you can wrap it many times).

Make several turns of thread from one nail to another, maintaining tension. The number of turns depends on the material chosen (2-3 turns are enough for a nylon thread, five for a linen thread, and at least fifty for a lavsan thread). Tie the ends of the threads together.

On the ears of the bowstring (those places where it will be attached to the bow) we make a protective winding. About 10 cm from the nail, we divide the turns into two strands and insert a spacer between them.

We tie a knot on one of the strands and begin a dense, thorough winding with a nylon thread. We try to make the turns as tight and close to each other as possible. The length of such a wrapped section is 15 cm.

Using a similar method, we wrap the middle of the bowstring - the place that you will hold on to with your fingers. It is also recommended to make a saddle - sealing the bowstring on both sides of the place where the arrow will rest. This saves you the hassle of adjusting a moving arrow while aiming.

Putting on and checking the string

Now we need to check the tension of our bowstring. Attach the bow to any vertical surface, drape one eyelet over your shoulder, bend the bow slightly and pull the second eyelet.

After that, we begin to slowly pull back the bowstring, observing the behavior of the bow. Be careful that the shoulders bend evenly, both relative to each other and relative to the entire body of the bow.

Arrow making

Arrows are made from spruce, birch or pine wood blanks.

We take well-dried solid boards (we determine the length of the future arrow using the table at the beginning of the article). With the help of tools, we saw them into bars and give them a round shape at the end. The arrow diameter should be about 6-8 mm.

We attach a triangular steel tip to the arrow. In the back of the arrow we make a cutout corresponding to the diameter of the bowstring. We grind its inside and strengthen the place of the beginning of the cutout with a thread to avoid delamination of the arrow.

An invariable attribute of any arrow is a feather at the end. It plays the role of a stabilizer during flight. For this purpose, crow or goose feathers are suitable.

You now have all the instructions on how to good bow. But it is very important not only to make it correctly, but also to keep your creation in the right conditions so that it retains its original shape and excellent characteristics for a long time.

Here are some valuable tips for storing onions at home:

• Hold your bow upright
• Remove string after each use. Don't keep it tight.
• Each time before use, make a few smooth folds of the structure. This procedure will help to "warm up" and help to avoid breaks.
• Do not keep the onion in the sun for a long time. It must be stored in a dry, dark place.

That's all! You can get down to business.

Photo of a homemade bow