Is it possible to lubricate a bicycle chain with grease? Bicycle Chain Lubrication Guide

In the absence of lubrication, dirt and water do their inconspicuous work: traces of rust appear, the working surfaces of parts are erased, and jammed elements are destroyed. So that the bike does not fail on the road, you need to lubricate all its working units in the garage. Bicycle lubricants, by closing metal surfaces from air, prevent the formation of rust. A layer of lubricant applied to the mating surfaces significantly reduces the wear of parts and friction losses between them.

How to lubricate a specific part of a bicycle?

There is no shortage of lubricants for bicycles, as well as for other machines. All existing lubricants can be divided into several types.

1. Consistent. Durable, tolerate significant low and high temperatures. But they are difficult to apply, difficult to remove excess. A lot of dust and dirt sticks to them.
2. Liquid. It is convenient to apply with a syringe or an oil can, you can pour it into assembled units. Residues are easy to wipe off. Cons: they flow down from the coated parts, change viscosity with temperature changes.
3. Two-component. In the form of a liquid, it can be accurately applied; in the state of an aerosol, it penetrates into the closed places of the lubricated unit. Cons: aerosol oil is sprayed past the part to be coated, after lubrication, you have to wait until the solvent dries.

Lubricating greases

Sold in jars and tubes. This type Lubricants are plastic. Bicycle grease is used in slow-rotating mechanisms. It is she who needs to process bearings in all components of the bicycle, threaded connections, bushings of levers. Thick oils are used in chain conservation for long-term storage.

How to choose a specific thick oil, consider in more detail.

lithium oils

Lubricants containing lithium are usually yellow or red in color. Lithium compounds in lubricating oil are needed to increase slip and expand the temperature range at which the oil retains its operating properties. Lithium oils operate at temperatures from -50°C to +180°C. Domestic lubricants with lithium can serve as examples of LITOL, CIATIM, FIOL, SHRUS. They are washed off with water, but for a long time - during the year.

Domestic grease No. 158 has high adhesion, it is practically not washed off with water. She has a distinctive blue color. This color is given by a pigment - copper phthalocyanine, which is a thickener and an antioxidant additive at the same time. During operation, this oil cleans cups, cones, bearing balls to a shine. Has a temperature range from -40°C to +120°C. In the absence of grease No. 158, you can lubricate the bushings of the levers rear suspension, bottom bracket assembly, fork ball bearings with other thick oils.

Imported grease Lithium Grease from the English company Weldtite Products contains Teflon in addition to lithium.

Lithium greases have a common drawback - they chemically interact with aluminum.
Their overall advantage– lower price compared to other types of lubricants.

Calcium oils

Oils based on calcium compounds are most often yellow or green in color. Such lubricants adhere well to metal parts, so they are washed off with water for a long time. Examples of lubricants with calcium are domestic Solidol, Uniol. They should be used for wheel bearings, pedal ball bearings, brake levers and other bicycle components that often get wet.

That's just, in no case should you lubricate the bushing with the brake mechanism with grease and other thick substances. If the bush brakes, due to the inexperience of the cyclist, have been lubricated with grease, they must be washed with kerosene and dripped with liquid oil.

All metals can be coated with calcium greases to protect against corrosion, since the chemical activity of calcium is very low compared to lithium.

The disadvantage of calcium greases is a narrow, compared to lithium greases, temperature range at which they retain their properties - from -30°C to +50°C.

Graphite lubricants

Graphite powder itself is an anti-friction agent. After the oil that binds it dries, or burns off, it will remain on the surface of the lubricated part. The remaining thin layer of graphite will ensure good sliding of the two mating parts, even those that are under heavy load. Domestic USSA oil can serve as an example of a graphite lubricant.

Graphite oils are suitable for application to threaded connections and bushings of rear suspension arms. There was a time when cyclists used graphite to weld the chain in it. It was a laborious and long work, during which you need to make sure that the oil does not boil and, as a result, does not collapse. With a large selection of two-component lubes, there is no need to weld the chain in graphite or other grease.

The disadvantage of graphite grease is that it heavily stains everything it comes into contact with.

Technical Vaseline

Unlike medical and cosmetic, technical Vaseline undergoes the least cleaning. It is not transparent, and its color can vary from yellowish to dark brown. Technical petroleum jelly is better than other lubricants in closing metal parts from air and water, so it perfectly protects them from corrosion. Vaseline perfectly lubricates all bike cables and stays on them for a long time.

Boric Vaseline contains free acids that can attack the chrome surfaces of bearings and legs.

liquid oils

They are sold in barrels for bottling or in small canisters and oil bottles. Liquid lubricant for a bicycle can have a different degree of viscosity. Examples of lubricants with varying fluidity are industrial, spindle, and automotive oils. Automotive liquid oil can be used to lubricate the axis of rotation of brake levers, brake levers, gear shifters, ratchet ball bearings. It is suitable for bicycle bushings: it is enough to pour 2-3 drops of automotive oil into them once a month to renew the lubricant. But overfilling should be avoided, since the oil flowing from the bicycle components forms sticky dirt with dust. Oil that gets on the tires destroys the rubber.

A less viscous, industrial or spindle oil is poured into a bicycle fork as a working fluid for an oil shock absorber, or lubricated with it on the legs of the fork.

Thin oil can be used to coat cables, but does not adhere well to exposed surfaces, so it will need to be applied frequently. Fluid lubricant should be re-lubricated 1-2 times per month or every time the bike has been exposed to rain.

Two-component lubricants

Supplied in aerosol cans and oil bottles. A two-component lubricant consists of a thick oil and a solvent that thins the oil. Such a combined bicycle lubricant has a fluidity like that of water and easily flows into the assembled elements. After application, the solvent evaporates and only a thick oil remains inside. Therefore, it is convenient for her to lubricate the chain, chain tension wheel bushings, derailleur axles, brake lever supports and other closed bicycle components.

The oil film that remains after spraying from a can is difficult to wash off with water, so two-component lubricants can be applied to the surface of a bicycle to protect it during winter riding or long storage.

Silicone Grease

Silicone-based oils can be purchased as a spray, liquid, or grease. Such a variety is necessary for ease of application. Despite the difference in execution, they all consist of an oxygen-containing organosilicon compound and a solvent. Silicone oil, unlike mineral or essential oils, will not attack rubber parts.

Also, silicone greases are highly resistant to dust adhesion, so they are indispensable for processing rubber seals.

Teflon grease

This type of lubricant has the highest resistance to abrasion. Being between two moving parts, it is not produced for a long time at high pressure. Therefore, Teflon oil is the best chain lubricant.

The composition of Teflon oil, in addition to the solvent, also includes antistatic components that repel dust.

wax lubricant

Creates a thicker, waxy synthetic oil layer on the outside, unlike Teflon-based lubricants, that needs to be reapplied less often. In terms of its ability to linger on parts with increased pressure, it is inferior to Teflon.

Before reapplying the wax lubricant, the surface will need to be cleaned of old oil.

penetrating oils

WD-40 and its analogues

Sold in aerosol cans. They are excellent at softening rust, thinning dried grease and displacing water. Analogues of imported WD-40 are AnyWay and the domestic product UNISMA. In fact, these fluids are not lubricants. They include white spirit, binders and only a little kerosene as a lubricant. Their main active ingredient is the solvent, not the oil.

It is correct to use WD-40 and similar fluids only for loosening rusted threaded connections and removing old dried grease, and not for lubricating bicycle components.

Lubricant Nanoprotech

Nanoprotech is also a penetrating lubricant but uses mineral oil as a base. Therefore, with its help, you can not only clean parts and unscrew rusted bolts and nuts, but also lubricate unloaded rubbing parts. Although it is best to use it when disassembling the bike and preserving it.

Lubricants must be free of solid impurities, free acids and water, so they must be stored in a clean container with a tight-fitting lid.

Now you have the basic knowledge of bicycle lubricants. It remains only to put them into practice.

Drivetrain maintenance is what you most often need to do with your bike if you want it to last and look great. But there are important tricks here...

Cleanliness is the key to health! This expression is true not only for organisms, but also for a bicycle transmission. The nightmare of your bike is black (like night) cassette, chain and system, completely covered with "plasticine" from old grease, dust and poplar fluff ... Have you seen this?

In such a favorable environment, “steel biters” usually start up - evil microbes that quietly devour stars, chains and rollers ... :).

Most comparators also measure wear on the two rollers that will support the ends of the probe. When measuring with a ruler, it is difficult to maintain the latter with the required accuracy. Also, since the measurement can vary depending on how tight the chain is, it's best to keep the latter on the bike.

• However, only rivet wear causes elongation, which is desirable to evaluate.
• Then it cannot be measured along its entire length.

Wear is uneven throughout the chain, so it is preferable to take several measurements at different locations.

A well-maintained transmission should look "brilliant".

Transmission Care

This is the most important and frequent thing you will do with your bike. Ideally, after every 100 km of driving in dry weather, give the transmission 3-5 minutes of time for cleaning, and lubricate it only when you hear the rustle of a dry chain when driving.

Chain lubrication is one of the most important steps in bike care. Not only the quality of the transmission, but also the durability of the chain and stars on your bike directly depends on the oil (grease) used. That is why today I will tell you how and with what you need to lubricate the chain, and with what you cannot lubricate it.

The most unfortunate part is that no one agrees with the consequences of this measure: if most indicators estimate that with an elongation of 0.5%, the chain should be replaced by some mechanics at a rate of 0.3%, 0.7%, 0.8% or even 1.5% and also makes a big difference when it comes to rating sprocket wear.

How to choose the right lubricant?

There are other methods that are much less accurate, but that allow you to quickly assess wear without the need for a measuring device. When the chain pitch is stretched it no longer matches the gear ideal, and the rollers will no longer be at the bottom of the grooves that separate each tooth and then be higher in height relative to the teeth of the crowns. Then they grind them up and shape them into a shark wing characteristic, admitting it's urgent to change the chain. In this case, of course, it will also take.

How is bicycle chain lubricant different from other oils? The bike chain is in motion, its rollers are constantly rubbing against the stars, as well as the rollers of the rear derailleur. Friction of the rollers of the star chain (external friction) - does not lead to "stretching" (increase in length) of the chain. The most intense friction occurs just inside the chain itself. Each link consists of four elements (2 plates, a pin and a roller). There are about 110 such links in the chain.

Should the whole gear change when changing the chain?

This offset also negatively affects transmission efficiency and can, even when wear is severe, cause chain jumps. When replacing gears or trays, it is highly recommended to also replace the chain. Should you also change sprockets and chainrings when you change the chain? Some mechanics use charts, such as "when the chain has been changed 4 times, the gables and plates have been changed twice" or "if the chain has been changed 10 times, then change sprockets three times and after the plates". But others say that with a periodic chain, it is necessary to systematically change the sprockets or even the plates, because the wear of the chain goes on. No, because it is not enough to replace them: a new chain is much cheaper than a cassette or a pedal.

The new chain precisely fits with its rollers into the teeth of the new cassette. To understand where lubrication is most needed in a chain, you need to understand What that's where it wears out. Please note that the pins are tightly planted in the holes of the outer plates, which means there is no friction between them. There is friction between the inner link plates and the pins. It is here that the pin is developed, the inner plates rub the grooves in it, which leads to an elongation of the chain (they say: “the chain has stretched”). As a result, the rollers no longer fall so accurately into the teeth of the stars, and wear them out. The rollers of the rear derailleur, which are usually made of plastic, also suffer. In addition, the clarity of gear shifting decreases, noise, clicks, chain slips and other undesirable phenomena occur. Thus, the most unwanted wear of the chain does not occur on the outside, but inside her.

Likewise, when sprockets are too boring, the chain can jump around. The two phenomena are quite similar: they are more likely to occur on a small sprocket or small pan when force is exerted on the pedals uphill at the moment of changing speed, or when the gear is especially dirty. There is only one remedy: the gears must be changed as soon as possible. But what you need to know is that when the chain is new, these problems will get worse, so it's possible that these seeds only occur when the chain is renewed.

In addition, the way the teeth are used makes diagnosis particularly difficult. First, wear begins by digging grooves between each tooth. Unfortunately, this erosion is not noticeable at first, and then over time the teeth look like waves, shark fins, but at this point it is too late: the crown is too worn!

The task of any chain lubricant is to penetrate inside and stay there for as long as possible: do not dry out, do not wash out with water, do not splash when the chain moves. But on the outside, lubrication does more harm than good, because. coupled with dust, it turns into an abrasive paste that does its job perfectly.

The chain must be kept dry on the outside and lubricated on the inside.

As a result, after installing a new chain, for competition, sports or dangerous practice, and if gables or trays start to date, it may be wise to change them. If wear is particularly noticeable, the question no longer arises: replacement is necessary. In other cases, it's best to try the transmission on a difficult course, preferably on a climb, and only change gables or trays if chain sucking or chain jumps occur.

In order to open the chain, you must partially cut off the axis of the chain connection using a chain pick. Be careful not to chase it all the way so it can be put back in place later, it needs to be glued onto the plate. If the chain has a special quick release link, it can be easily removed without chain drives. Most Dutch bike chains have fast links, as do the latest racing bike chains.

After you have applied liquid (!) Lubrication to each roller, you need to wipe the chain dry with a soft cloth. When riding, part of the lubricant still flows out and accumulates dust, so the chain, stars and rollers must be cleaned with a brush with a medium-length hard bristle. It is best to use special convenient brushes for this, which can clean hard-to-reach places, such as derailleur rollers and the gap between stars.

With regular cleaning, your transmission will not only look great, it will run great and last much longer.

To close the circuit, the chain dropper is used in the same way to replace the axle of the chain connection or to replace the quick connector. Length adjustment is explained in the chapter. The chain must be properly tensioned to minimize wear on the entire gearbox.

To adjust the tension on a single-seat bike, pull the wheel back to tension the chain before attaching it to the frame legs. The operation is quite delicate, as it must be ensured at the same time that the wheel remains centered and keeps the chain under tension by tightening the axle nuts. If the wheel is equipped with a hub brake, the reverse lever must first be loosened. To check chain tension.

The brushes alone won't be enough to clean up a black rundown transmission, so you'll need a special chain cleaner. It is also called a "degreaser" (grease remover, from the word de-greaser). This composition washes well stubborn grease with dirt. At worst, WD-40 will help out, but special cleaners work better.

What is the best way to lubricate a bicycle chain?

If the chain is not tight enough, it can slow down when the chain is pulled from the side, about halfway between the gear and the chain. It is also possible to tension the link at platform level, as if the chain wear had been checked on a bike equipped with a derailleur. If the chain is too tight, the pedals will become fatiguing and this will cause a rather noisy crackle. There are other solutions for adjusting chain tension.

How to care for a bicycle chain

When cycling, the chain is always weaker in its lower part than in its upper segment, where it is pulled by the pedals. When the slack is too high, the chain may remain stationary for some time at the bottom of the chain. This phenomenon, more commonly known as chain sucking, usually indicates excessive wear on the tray teeth and can also be caused by excessive friction or a damaged component. especially when it's a certain gear: on recumbent or loaded bikes when the distance between the crankshaft axles and the rear wheel is too big, or on giant bikes when the pedal chain is too tilted.

If a lot of sand or dirt got into the chain (for example, after a serious "mud-kneading"), then the brushes help little: the chain should wash. For this purpose, it is better not to think of a special chain washer. It allows you to gently wash the bike chain even in the apartment.

What to do with the new chain.

A new chain is lubricated when the links are assembled at the factory with a thick but very sticky lubricant. It is enough for 300-400 km of driving, after which it will be difficult to put grease in the rollers.

Before the first ride, you need to wipe off the sticky grease from the new chain. soft cloth lightly moistened with solvent. Do not wash out the factory grease from the inside!

Then, in order to solve the problem, it is necessary to add a tensioner, for example, one roller. After adjusting the chain or laying the chain with the chain clamp, there may be a tight spot between two chain links. This causes noise, especially when the chain passes through the rear derailleur, and it also causes jumps in high speed gears.

To remove it, you need to determine the location of this difficult point, and then restore the game to the level of the rivet. To do this, put a drop of oil on the rivet, then hold the chain with your thumbs on either side of the hard point and twist the chain from the side, alternating in both directions and also in the length direction. See if the hard point has disappeared, otherwise twist the line.

If you don't wipe down the new chain, the factory sticky grease will turn your transmission into black iron very quickly. By the way, for some reason, sellers do not talk about this, but this simple procedure will make it easier for you to maintain the transmission in a brilliant form (in every sense). Now let's look at lubricants for chains.

How not to lubricate the chain.

One of the most common mistakes is lubricating the chain with WD-40 spray and its analogues.

WD-40 is a high penetrating fluid designed primarily to loosen sour compounds and displace moisture. Yes, it contains a small amount of oil, but in essence WD-40 is "carbonated kerosene", not a lubricant. Vedashka, Anyway (Hado) and other analogues are nevertheless good to use for dissolution old grease if you want to clean the "running" transmission elements well. In this case, you need to generously spray the parts, laying a rag so that the composition does not get on the rest of the parts, and wait a bit. After that, clean with a brush, wipe dry and lubricate with a special liquid chain lubricant (see below).

Engine oil as a chain lubricant is already better, but so far it’s “four”. As the name suggests, this oil must operate in engines, in a closed environment at high temperatures. Its outstanding motor properties are not needed at all in bicycles. And vice versa, motor oil does not “promise” us at all to penetrate the rollers well, not to dry for a long time, not to be washed off and weakly attract dust. The same can be said about sewing machine oil, as well as transformer, motorcycle, olive, massage and aromatic ...)) With excellent bicycle oils, there is no point in dripping any other oil into the chain and thinking “what will happen”.

Bicycle maintenance often starts with importance proper lubrication your bike chains. A small gesture that will go a long way in extending the life of many of your most important parts. First of all, this cannot be done with any product; It is important to take a lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Several specialized products are available to you; dry, wet, ceramic, etc. which one to choose? When applied, a dry lubricant is more fluid. Its less viscous formula brings in less dust than other formulas.

This is a comprehensive formula. It is much thicker and therefore better able to withstand the weather. When it comes to branding, it's often a matter of taste. Its design is designed to penetrate the core of the chain, and the gutter shape makes it easy to apply while avoiding waste. Now that you have chosen your product, when should you apply it? To find out, tap your channel, she will tell you. Contrary to popular belief, it is not the outer part of the chain that needs to be lubricated, but rather the inside of the mesh. If you ride in muddy conditions, in the rain, in an area with a lot of dust, a little check is required.

Having bought a jar of excellent oil for bicycle chains for 100-200 UAH, you will present it to your grandchildren. Does it make sense to look for an alternative?

How to choose a lubricant for a bicycle chain.

In a bicycle transmission, only the chain needs to be lubricated, and in no case the stars. As mentioned above, the following qualities are important in bicycle chain lubricant:
It is good to penetrate rollers.
Stay there for a long time, do not dry out and do not flow out.
Attract as little dust as possible.
Resist being washed away by rain.

Oil for motorcycle chains, in principle, is also suitable for us, but it should also not splatter from the rollers when the chain rotates at high speed. Therefore, motorcycle oil is more expensive, and it has more packaging. Bicycle chain lubricants come in two main types.

Dirt, if left in the chain, can damage the rolling mechanism; dry sludge, dust, water, etc. this simple maintenance can save you a lot of trouble on your bike. It's important to make sure your chain isn't too dirty before applying lube; mud lubrication won't help you. Once your chain has been tested, wind it up by applying product through the rear sprockets. Make sure you have them everywhere. This is done, take a clean rag in your hand, close it on the chain and roll it up again.

Bicycle chain maintenance and proper lubrication

This step is to remove the excess, because remember that the interior must be oiled. If too much lube is left, the dust will adhere more easily and your chain will get dirtier a lot faster. The chain is a fundamental element in cycling. It is through this part of the bike that power is transmitted. It is by this mechanism of the bicycle that the losses in watts are most important. You need to maintain your chain optimally.

Lubricant for dry weather conditions (Dry). They are often made using Teflon and are designed for use in dry or not very wet conditions. It has a good dustproof effect due to the large amount of Teflon in the composition. Well protects the chain from short-term ingress of moisture. If you get caught in the rain, this smear will protect the chain from corrosion, however, once you get home, it is better to clean the transmission, wipe it dry, lubricate the chain and wipe it dry again. According to many mechanics, dry weather grease is an all-rounder and can be recommended as an "every day oil".

Maintaining Your Chain: The Golden Rule to Make Your Stuff Last

At the same time, a clean chain indicates less power loss, less noise and less wear. Also, if the operation is performed regularly, the lifetime of a full transfer can be multiplied by 3, or it must be known that the lack of service changes the chain. But also a cassette, rollers with a switch and trays. By regularly maintaining your channel, it does not take much time. It also provides a much longer life span for all of these components. In addition, this makes it possible to increase the fluidity during the passage of the gears.

Grease for wet and damp conditions (Wet). It is made on the basis of synthetic silicone oils, sometimes with the addition of paraffin. The lubricant protects the chain very well from direct and prolonged exposure to moisture. Due to the high content of silicone, it works great in wet and dirty conditions, but it is categorically not suitable for use in dry weather due to the high fat content of the composition. We recommend using this type of lubricant on rainy autumn days, in early spring, when participating in marathons in bad weather, and especially in winter.

Degreaser: A Useful and Reasonable Dose

The first thing to do to maintain your chain is to properly degrease it. There are special products for bicycle chains. They will not impair the mechanical properties of the chain and will not preserve the joints of this one. Also, there is no need to use too much product. This is a helping hand and the frequency of maintenance. In addition, the product must be able to act within a few minutes in order to obtain optimal effectiveness.

Worthy of special attention lubricants containing ceramics. According to the manufacturers, they create a ceramic layer of increased strength on the rubbing parts, which increases their service life.

Also interesting greases with thickeners. When the lubricant is applied to the roller, it is very fluid, after which the solvent evaporates from it, and it becomes thick. Thus, it stays inside longer. When lubricating, it is important to wipe the lubricant off the outside of the chain in time.

The main types of lubricant packaging are bottle with a tip and an aerosol can. Despite the seeming primitiveness of the bottle, I still recommend it. With it, I apply lubricant directly to each roller, and it takes up less space in my backpack. Aerosol can be taken for a workshop where you need to quickly lubricate more than one chain in a day. Due to spraying, a lot of lubricant is sprayed “by” and consumption increases. Also, out of habit, it is easy to stain the rims, spokes, frame, brake rotors with a spray.

For home use, it is better to choose a regular bottle of oil with a volume of 50-100 ml "with a spout".

Let's summarize.

Summing up, I advise you not to save on lubrication and choose a special oil for bicycle chains. It takes into account all the nuances of an open bicycle transmission. I recommend choosing a bottle with a spout. If you choose a spray, be sure to put a rag under the jet so that the lubricant does not get where it should not. You only need to lubricate the chain, and only inside the rollers, only when you start to hear the "dry" rustle of the chain while driving. Wipe the chain dry after lubrication. Clean the chain, stars, rollers with a brush, preventing the accumulation of dirt, sand, dust on them.

Happy travels!

There are so many types of chain lube on the market that there is a huge problem of choice. Each manufacturer insists that his product is better, and the seller tries to sell the most expensive product, talking about its merits. The focus of this article is on a bicycle chain, what it is, how it is applied correctly and how it differs from competitors.

Types of lubricating oils

There are several types of bicycle lubricant on the market, each of which stands out from its competitors with special properties.

1. Aerosol lubricants. Under high pressure together with air, the lubricant enters the chain in the form of foam and, due to its state of aggregation, penetrates hard-to-reach components. After waiting 10-15 minutes, you need to dry the remnants of the substance with a dry rag. Such a bicycle chain lubricant is not only durable, but also the most effective, because a chain wiped dry will not attract dust to itself. There is only one inconvenience - it takes a lot of time to clean the chain of lubricant residues.
2. liquid oils. Most popular view lubricants are sold with a special dispenser for the convenience of the procedure. Liquid oils cost a penny on the market, but they are inferior to all competitors in terms of efficiency.
3. Two-component lubricants. A volatile solvent with thick oil is applied to the chain. Lubricant penetrates into hard-to-reach nodes, the solvent evaporates, and the oil thickens.

Popular Teflon

TF2 bicycle lubricant, which is available in the form of an aerosol and in oil cans, differs from its competitors in the best resistance to dirt and dust, because it contains Teflon. Before applying, it is necessary to completely wash the chain from dirt and dry well. This is the main requirement of the manufacturer, which guarantees the durability of operation. The lubricant is applied evenly to the chain and gently wiped off oil smudges. After 10-15 minutes, the chain must be wiped dry with a cloth. The Teflon component declared by the manufacturer in the composition of the lubricant should create an enveloping film over the entire surface, which will repel dust and dirt. After driving a couple of kilometers after cleaning, you will notice that the bicycle chain lubricant has again appeared on the surface in the form of droplets. This happens due to heating and pressure in the circuit during operation. Excess oil must be removed with a rag. With such effective lubrication for 150-200 kilometers in dry terrain, the chains are not afraid of dust or dirt.

Lubricant from the manufacturer of bicycle components

If there are components under the Shimano brand, then there must be accessories from a famous brand for maintenance and care. Naturally, their quality must match the brand. Shimano WET 100 bicycle lubricant is rightfully considered the best in the professional cycling segment. The grease is designed for wet weather, because it contains components with high binding properties. In addition, after lubrication, a water-repellent film forms on the surface of the chain, which can easily cope not only with moisture, but also with dirt. At a low price, this option contains components that prevent the formation of corrosion and rust, so many athletes, in addition to the chain, lubricate the rotating parts of the bicycle, trying to protect themselves from contamination. Such extensive functionality has only one drawback - fragility. At the end of the race, thoroughly rinse all lubricated components, wipe dry and re-lubricate.

The Russian brand will not give way

When wondering which bike chain lubricant is best, many Russian buyers argue among themselves, defending Japanese, German and American brands. Few people know that the Russian market has a lubricant for a bicycle chain of its own production. Unlike competitors, only it is able to work in the conditions that exist on the territory of Russia. Bicycle lubricant Nanoprotech has no analogues in the world, because it contains components that provide protection against aggressive environments, which include all kinds of reagents, including salt, sprinkled on the roads of the country in the winter. The manufacturer chose to release the product in the form of an aerosol, providing the user with a user-friendly service. There is a lot of information on the cylinder, which at first raises doubts about the veracity, but after a month of active operation in the winter, all questions to the manufacturer disappear. Professionals recommend Nanoprotech lubricant to all cyclists using all year round.

Into a sandstorm

Motorex bicycle chain lubricant is not multigrade. She has a slightly different mission. Biodegradable oil designed for use in conditions of maximum dustiness and low humidity. Race on the sands, careers, mountain slopes - this is her environment. In addition to the chain, the manufacturer recommends using the same lubricant on brake cables and derailleurs, as well as on moving components. Available in the form of an aerosol and in the form of an oil can. In our market, the Swiss manufacturer Motorex is better known for its shock absorber service products. Low cost and high quality quickly attracted its customers. However, Motorex-branded bicycle chain lube is inexplicably the most expensive niche and will be out of the reach of many bike owners.

How to measure it and how to deal with it.

One of the main ways to extend the life of the entire transmission (chain and sprockets) is to wash, clean and lubricate the chain.

Let's see how to do it.

The chain needs to be lubricated. But, and this is the most important thing, Only clean chain needs to be lubricated.! Otherwise, it is not only useless, but often even harmful.

Grease, together with dirt and sand, thickens and turns into sandpaper, which further interferes with the operation of the chain. Moreover, at the same time, the cyclist will have to spend additional forces to overcome the increased friction of the dirty chain.

How to wash a transmission.

Yes, exactly the entire transmission - not only the chain, but also the sprockets in the rear cassette, and the front sprockets of the system. If you wash only the chain and leave the sprockets dirty, this will not save them much from wear.

Chains can be washed using two approaches:

1. Wash directly on the bike.
2. and wash separately.

Both approaches are normal and it all depends on the contamination of the chain and the diligence of the cyclist.

In general, it is believed that the most The best way wash the chain - remove it from the bike and leave it for 15-20 minutes in plastic bottle with white spirit, shaking the bottle from time to time. It perfectly cleans almost any dirt, blurring it in all places.

You can also use kerosene or gasoline. In the instructions for Soviet bicycles it was explicitly stated that in order to flush the chain, it is "removed from the bicycle, cleaned of dust and dirt, washed in kerosene or gasoline and wiped dry." Both of these products dissolve old grease and dirt well.

How to remove a chain from a bicycle is discussed in the article.

If you are too lazy to remove the chain or there is simply no time, you can wash it without removing it from the transmission.

The easiest and cleanest way is to use a chain washer. Such machines come in different shapes and manufacturers, some of which are shown in the figures.

The last homemade toothbrush option is the cheapest, simplest and most reliable. In addition to the cost, it has another very big plus - it is convenient to take it with you on a trip. Lightweight and takes up little space. And although its cleaning efficiency is lower than that of the creations of the Chinese industry, sometimes it is easier to rinse the brushes ten times than to carry around or fix flimsy cars.

In general, each cyclist decides for himself what to use when washing the chain, depending on his financial capabilities and laziness. I would like to note that brushes for such a device must be taken with stiff bristles.

What to fill in the machine?

In general, it comes with a special detergent. It doesn’t really last long, so they use the same white spirit, kerosene, gasoline or other degreasers. Degreaser(degreaser) is a special degreaser designed to remove dirt, grease, oil.

Sometimes it happens that gasoline dissolves the bodies of cars, it’s even surprising what the Chinese make them from. And in general, when working with gasoline, you need to be careful, you can clean the chain with it only on the street, and, of course, do not smoke at the same time.

There are special chain cleaners - various detergents specially selected to remove old grease and dissolve dirt. They are produced not only in liquid, but also in aerosol form. These products are quite effective and clean the chain well from dirt, easy to use, but quite expensive.

The question is often asked: "Is it possible to wash bicycle chain water? ". Of course you can. Water is generally the best solvent for dirt and all detergents are made on its basis. You can also add household detergents, such as laundry soap or feri, to the water. The most important thing is to let the chain dry after washing.

A heavily soiled chain is difficult to wash with a machine. You will have to change the solvent or water several times.

You can even before flushing the chain with a machine, take WD40 and blow through each link with it. At the same time, be sure to cover the braking surfaces (rotor for and the braking surface of the rims for ) so as not to stain them. Please note that WD40 is not a lubricant, but rather a degreaser. It removes layers of old dirt from the joints of the chain, so after it the chain must be lubricated.

If not, use other degreasers. You can also use silicone lubricant. It also removes dirt from the chain.

After cleaning the chain with a machine, be sure to wipe the chain with a rag. As a result, the chain should be free of dirt, sand, and it should be dry. In order for the chain to dry properly, especially after using water, leave the bike outside for a while.

Now the chain needs to be lubricated. How to do this, we'll talk a little lower, but for now let's focus on cleaning the stars.

How and how to wash cassette stars and bicycle systems.

To clean the stars, both special and ordinary brushes are used, including toothbrushes, only with a hard bristle. Of course, we recommend using special brushes, but you can also try homemade options. It will be difficult with a toothbrush here - her pile is too short.

There is another option to use a special thread, but this is for strong fans.

When washing the cassette, you can also use different solvents and the same cleaners as for cleaning the chain. Remember, your main goal is that no dirt should remain on the stars.

What is a good lubricant?

A good lubricant should be thin enough to easily penetrate into hard-to-reach places - between the rollers and the axes of the links. At the same time, it should not flow out of there and be easily washed out with water.

Sold in stores different kinds lubricants. It is best to use special for bicycle and motorcycle chains. Can be lubricated with automotive oils. It's often cheaper, but not always better. After all, automotive oils are more suitable for cars than for bicycles.

The most effective aerosol lubricant options or liquid ones.

Aerosol lubricants penetrate into the most inaccessible places of the chain, but at the same time they often get to the wrong place, on the rotors. When using them, you need to cover the rest of the bike, and if it hits where you don’t need it, quickly remove it.

Liquid lubricant you can just drop it into the lubricated place - on the chain roller and not stain the rest of the bike. But many liquid lubricants thicken in the cold. If in winter you prefer a warm apartment to active rides, then this minus does not make much sense.

Is there some more two-component lubricants. This is a thick grease diluted with a solvent. In the process of lubrication, it is liquid and gets where it needs to be. After that, the solvent evaporates and the grease thickens. At the same time, its exact application is possible, but it takes time to dry. You can ride after some time indicated on the package. From tens of minutes to several hours.

I would especially like to note that the use thick lubricants are strongly discouraged. Deliver her to Right place chain is not possible, and remaining on the chain, it will absorb all the dirt and sand and become not a lubricant, but an abrasive.

What should be lubricated in the chain.

You need to lubricate the rubbing parts under the rollers.

There is no point in lubricating the plates and the outer part of the chain. Not only will the clothes get dirty all the time, but the grease will also pick up street dirt and dust, which will penetrate inside the chain, under the rollers. Therefore, after lubrication, the chain must remain dry on the outside.

How to lubricate a chain.

The most important - chain must be clean and dry before lubrication. If water was used when cleaning the chain, the chain must be completely dry.

There are several methods here:

1. Lubricate each link of the chain, pointwise dripping grease onto the roller. This is a method for patient bikers. No need to lubricate outer part links, and a little bit on the rollers.

1. Scrolling the chain, dripping lubricant on it in the direction of travel from above and below. This is much faster, but not always as efficient as in the previous case.

   After that, the chain is scrolled several times, driving it through all the sprockets.

   After lubrication, you need to wipe the chain with a dry cloth, because if there is a lot of oil on it, it will collect all the dirt on it on the next trip.

2. You can also boil the chain in oil.

   If the chain was washed in water - be sure to let it dry.

   When cooking, heated oil penetrates into all "hard-to-reach places" and well lubricates all rollers, pins and rubbing places between the plates. After such cooking, it is removed from the container with oil, allowed to drain all the excess oil, cooled, wiped dry, and then set in place.

   In general, the process is a bit messy and, depending on the oil used to lubricate, can be very smelly.

   For example, graphite grease stinks very much when heated strongly and then you have to ventilate the whole apartment for a long time. So it's better to do it somewhere in the garage on a gas burner or a small fire.

How often to lubricate the chain

It all depends on how the bike is used.

If trips mainly take place on asphalt and non-dusty roads, then liquid lubricant is enough for 300-500 kilometers. If you ride in mud, forest roads and in rain or snow, wash and lubricate the chain after each ride. And preferably immediately. Washing off dried dirt is more difficult than fresh, and the chain will not have time to start to rust.

During the movement of the chain through the stars, friction is created, which provokes its rapid wear, so it is necessary to clean and lubricate the chain regularly. Which lubricant to choose is up to the rider, depending on weather conditions and the duration of the trip. It is believed that in dry weather the chain should be lubricated once every 100 km, in rainy and muddy conditions - once every 50 km. But if you hear a creak or rustle, or it’s difficult for you to pedal, then you don’t have to wait, it’s better to smear right away!

Types of lubricants

1. For wet environments

This species remains on the chain after lubrication, so it is recommended for riding in wet and muddy conditions, for winter riding, and also in dry conditions where many water obstacles are expected to be overcome, such as fords.

• Advantages: does not wash out, so it does not need to be applied constantly (recommended every 50 km).
• Disadvantages: Since the lubricant remains on the chain, dust and small dirt particles easily adhere to it, which later act as an abrasive and increase the wear of the links. It is also much more difficult to clean the bike from such oil.

2. For dry environments

This type is applied to the chain, but does not remain on it. outer surface, so dust and dirt do not stick to the lubricant, which means it is ideal for trips in dry weather.

• Pros: Not as sticky as for wet weather, so it repels dust rather than attracts it. The main thing is to remember that it should be applied a few hours before the trip so that it has time to dry.
• Disadvantages: it is quickly washed out, so it is recommended to apply it after each hit in a stream or in the rain.

3. Based on wax

Leaves a protective layer on the bike chain after application, only suitable for dry weather conditions.

• Pros: The wax lube repels dirt from the chain so it doesn't need to be cleaned as often. This is an ideal solution for those who are "obsessed" with cleanliness, and for those who are not going to get wet - after all, this lubricant can stay on the chain for several months, and after the "use by date" itself flies off in flakes.
• Disadvantages: In wet and muddy conditions it is not effective, so it needs to be applied more often than oil. Also, because of the main component - wax - it does not penetrate the links as well as oil lubricants.

The first and most important tip is that you should not lubricate the chain with anything that is not intended for a bicycle. This includes sunflower oil, used machine oil, and other cheap substitutes for normal bicycle lubricant. Even WD-40 is not designed to lubricate the chain, but only to clean it!

If possible, purchase biodegradable lubricants - this way you will help nature to quickly cope with chemicals washed down to the ground.

A lubricant based on PTFE, better known as Teflon, will help to noticeably ease the torsion of the pedals.
No matter what type of lubricant you choose, always apply it to a clean chain, otherwise dirt will get into the inner parts of the links along with the oil, which will accelerate the wear process.

How to apply chain lube?

There are two methods of application: aerosol and drip. Aerosol is convenient, but drip is correct. To understand this, you need to figure out exactly where to lubricate the chain:

• where the rivets rub against the inner plates (at the moment the links are bent relative to each other);
• where the inner and outer plates rub against each other;
• inside the roller so that it can easily turn around its axis.

It turns out that the lubricant must be applied to the internal parts of the chain, and not to the external ones. The drip method involves a long and slightly tedious process of dripping oil onto each link joint, and the aerosol can be sprayed in a couple of seconds.

But! During the application of aerosols, those parts of the bicycle that do not need to reduce friction at all - brake discs, rims, brake pads can get under the jet. This is fraught not only with excess dirt and dust adhering to the bike, but also with serious injuries at the time of brake failure.

A kind of compromise between drip and aerosol lubricant is a two-component lubricant - it is essentially a thick oil diluted in a solvent. It is applied quickly enough and easily penetrates into the links, leaving a thick oil layer after the solvent evaporates.

How to quickly and effectively clean and lubricate the chain, see here:

A famous cyclist once said that just a few drops of oil can dramatically increase pedaling efficiency. To his words, it remains only to add that the "drops of oil" should be selected in accordance with the conditions and distance of the trip, as well as depending on the speed of their application.

The consistency of bicycle lubricants is comparable to that of boot cream or toothpaste, however in some cases it is liquid to match the configuration of an aerosol. Usually these funds are sold in special tubes. Jars are used to pack a large amount of content. Grease can be used to treat bearings, cables, as well as all connections that are fastened with a thread.

Types of lubricants for a bicycle

1. Graphite.
2. calcium.
3. Lithium.
4. Teflon.
5. Silicone.

graphite lubricant

Graphite grease can be purchased in a powder configuration. Usually used for connections in which threaded elements are involved. This is the most durable bicycle lubricant, so it is used where you do not need to constantly disassemble and redo the mounts, as it can be used to save time on the frequency of subsequent repairs. When working with graphite grease, care is needed, as an inexperienced craftsman can get dirty very quickly.

Calcium lubricant

It has a yellow or green color, but the shade is definitely not bright. It is successfully used for metal surfaces. Calcium grease is practically insensitive to moisture, so it is not necessary to re-lubricate the parts if it gets caught in the rain or after washing the bike. Items that have been treated with calcium grease must be used at temperatures ranging from -30 to +50 degrees. It is not recommended to go beyond these limits.

lithium grease

It has a red, sometimes yellow color. The parts treated with it must be protected from moisture, as the lubricant is washed off very quickly. Even light rain can cause the need for re-processing of parts.

Such a lubricant is suitable for climatic zones with low temperatures, as it can withstand up to -50 degrees without changing its basic properties. Plus temperature can be any. for a bicycle withstands up to +150 degrees. Any parts can be processed, excluding all items that contain aluminum.

Teflon grease

There are two types of Teflon grease. The first is sold in a bottle, from which it must be squeezed out. It does not have a dispenser. The second type is in the form of a spray, so everyone can plan for themselves the required dose for specific parts and speed up the repair process. The difference lies only in the packaging configuration, and both types show the same properties.

Teflon lube is often used on a bicycle chain, but it is also used for other items. Usually it is used when it is necessary to process moving mechanisms or their parts. One of the distinguishing features of this lubricant is its anti-corrosion property, that is, after applying this liquid, objects will not be subject to rust formation. Also, this tool helps to overcome, that is, remove rust, if corrosion appears in the initial stages. Teflon bicycle grease is resistant to harmful environmental influences.

It does not react to acid, alkali, and also to salt. When the parts have a sufficient layer of this agent, a barrier is created for them, preventing water and electricity from entering them. Teflon lubricant for a bicycle is used at temperatures from -50 and at any positive temperature, since this substance can withstand up to +250 degrees. It is available to residents of any climatic zone.

In most cases, Teflon grease is used to process hinges, forks, chains, as well as other elements that function when the bicycle is in motion. It is allowed to use this grease near plastic elements.

Teflon lubricant for a bicycle does not harm any objects and devices, and if necessary, can be easily washed with a rag, but for this the matter must be absolutely dry. It is applied to a clean and dried surface of concrete parts. When using lubricant from a spray can, you must first shake it, and then do the dosing of the substance.

Silicone Grease

Sold in several configurations. You can buy it both in a jar and in a spray can. This lubricant is used not only for any parts and mechanisms, but also for plastic, rubber parts that are subject to friction when the bicycle is in motion. In the case of an e-bike, this product can be used to lubricate the battery wires to provide a reliable barrier against dirt and water.

For the bicycle chain, it is sold in liquid form. A thin film is enough to protect parts from negative impact. There is no destructive effect on the structural elements of the bicycle, so the formation of rust is impossible. This grease can withstand temperatures from -50 to + 250 degrees, while at any allowable mark on the thermometer it does not change its properties.

Canned silicone bike lubricant is sold in a thicker form than aerosol. If you need a dense and large layer, you need to choose this particular configuration. When working with silicone grease, no protective measures need to be taken. The substance does not harm a person, therefore it is easily washed off with ordinary soap and warm water.

Liquid lubricants

Special oil bottles are universal and are used to process many designs. Liquid bicycle chain lubricant is indispensable when it is necessary to process a small, hard-to-reach part, as well as in cases where there are many protruding corners in the part. Ease of use explains the ability to process parts with a syringe. Among the shortcomings, one can single out a small resistance to low temperatures. When choosing a lubricant, price plays a big role. Approximately you can buy good products at a cost of 300-800 rubles. In the liquid configuration, you can find cheap and high-quality samples.

Aerosol lubricants

Spray cans help not only to clean the object from rust or cover it with a protective substance, but also to displace unnecessary elements, water, since spraying is carried out under pressure. Aerosols are great for treating surfaces that are amenable to friction during operation. These lubricants are great on the road when there is an urgent need, and there is little time for repairs or parts processing.

In most cases, the bicycle chain is also treated with an aerosol lubricant, however, in this case, the jet of the substance must be controlled, since the agent must not be allowed to get on the brake mechanism or rim. To understand which bike lubricants to choose, you need to pay attention to aerosols.

What should be lubricated on a bike?

1. Chain. With this element, the bike can move. Technical condition vehicle depends on the quality of the lubricant, as well as on its quantity and correct application. If the chain is in poor condition, it must be lubricated. This is indicated by the appearance of extraneous noise when the bicycle is moving.
2. Axles You need to work with them carefully, since the timeliness of stopping the vehicle depends on them.
3. Roller wheels involved in chain tension. These elements are constantly in contact, so they are lubricated.
4. Speed ​​shifter. It is made from two parts. In order to be able to independently choose the driving speed, regular lubrication of these elements is necessary. It should be remembered that the lubrication of the bicycle bushings is a necessary step in caring for it.
5. Cables used for braking and gear shifting.
6. Carriage knot. The more often you lubricate it, the better the security of the fasteners is ensured.
7. Bearings.
8. shock absorber system. In order for it to function according to all the rules, it is necessary to lubricate the front fork in time.

Bicycle lubrication should be carried out regularly. It is advisable to check the parts before each ride and, if necessary, apply a small layer of the substance. It should be remembered that the bike needs it in winter as well. So that it does not creak and does not become corroded, all parts should be periodically lubricated. It is necessary to pay attention even to small mechanisms so as not to provoke dangerous situations. Lubricants designed for various parts and weather conditions help with this.