- Choice of contact pedals and shoes. — Choice of clipless pedals and shoes What you need to know
Good afternoon, dear readers. Under the cut you will find an overview of contact pedals. If you ride a bike and want to add to the results and you don’t have such pedals yet, then you are under cat.
Although autumn has come, the cycling season continues.
I’ll tell you about contact pedals and my own impressions of using them on an MTB bike.
Contact pedals
Globally, contact pedals are divided into mountain and road, in the review we are talking about mountain pedals of the SPD standard.
Delivery:
Small package from Spain in 8 days to Bryansk.
I took these pedals to replace the same ones, but already worn out (about 5 thousand km passed).
Includes two pedals and two spikes with mounts for bike shoes. 
Pedals themselves: 
The pedals have a spike hook on both sides. 
"+ and -" is the adjustment of the stiffness of the fastening into the pedal.
Instruction
Weight:
This is the initial model for understanding what "contacts" are.
The next model (Shimano M540 SPD) is more reliable, and the design and clip-in features are exactly the same.
The transition to contact pedals will not be complete without a special one.
Prices for cycling shoes are different, but it turns out to be more expensive than pedals in any case.
By type are distinguished:
rigid cycling shoes for racing, touring shoes (semi-rigid) for touring. For the cold season, there are insulated options, or you can wear special shoe covers on top.
Worn pedals and cleats: 
While the inscriptions on the spikes are still visible and the pedals do not spontaneously quilt - you can ride. I figure it out, the pedal resource is about 8 thousand km.
Caring for contact pedals is extremely simple. Spikes must be kept clean and not worn on dirt or asphalt unless absolutely necessary. Pedals should also be regularly cleaned of dirt and lubricated with chain lubricant in the springs of the detent mechanism. To avoid unpleasant sounds when riding clipless pedals, it is necessary to flush and lubricate the surfaces of the studs and pedals that are in contact.
Myths about clipless pedals
In contacts, you can fall very seriously and get injured.
The main and, probably, the most terrible myth about contacts, which makes many people refrain from buying. In fact, you can fall very seriously when using conventional pedals. I myself saw the case: a friend on conventional pedals I fell pretty hard from the bridge into the stream at a speed of 5 km / h, due to my foot slipping off the pedal, but I drove and did not notice this bridge in the contacts.
If we talk about contacts, then they come unfastened when you turn your leg, so when you fall at speed, there are usually no problems. However, at first you really need to get used to unfastening your leg when the bike stops, and it is at the first stages that there can be offensive and stupid falls at the moment when the bike has already stopped, and the cyclist has not yet unfastened from the pedal.
Cycling shoes are not allowed.
Second myth. And it holds true for road shoes with a special plastic or carbon last. As for cross-country cycling shoes or touring cycling shoes, walking in them is almost as comfortable as in ordinary sneakers. Occasionally, a spike can click on the tile.
It is very difficult to learn to quilt out of the pedals.
And another myth. You can learn how to quickly quilt on the first day of skiing. It's not difficult at all. And even in an emergency, the contacts are quilted due to reflex movements of the leg (the main thing is not to tighten too much when setting up).
Contacts are not worth the money.
Working out or walking with clipless pedals is a completely different level. It can be compared to swapping out an old cheap bike for a brand new expensive model. The only way to understand this is to try it.
Own reasoning about contact pedals.
I am not an athlete myself, I just ride a bike for my own pleasure.
I learned how to fasten into contacts on the very first trip (here it is important to relax the pedal setting as much as possible), I didn’t even fall once when I was studying.
After when he fell, he always quilted reflexively. The skill of fastening is developed in a week or so, then you simply do not pay attention to it.
The increase in efficiency after the installation of contacts is not immediately understood - you need to ride them for another month, trying to pedal in a circle on straight sections. During this time, they will be drawn into work additional muscles, the motor skills of pedaling will be developed and then not only the results, but also the bicycle will be trampled uphill.
It will become more comfortable to ride long distances, your knees will not hurt.
The rises that used to be exhausting, but you just stop noticing them.
Another big plus of a bunch with a bicycle is the ability to rush forward sharply, accelerate. Full control of the bike. Jumping over small bumps is now also very easy, just pulling the bike up not only with the steering wheel, but also with your legs.
Of the minuses, this is skating in cool weather, feet get cold in cycling shoes.
Who else doubts whether it is worth switching to contact pedals - decide boldly, you will be happy with the result. My friends, even stubborn supporters of toptals, are now using contacts.
Thank you for your attention! Good luck on the roads.
Thanks to the well-thought-out design, maintenance of Shimano pedals is a pleasure. Moreover, this prolongs their life and reduces the rolling resistance in the bearings, which ultimately affects the efficiency of pedaling.
The following instructions apply to all SPD pedals, road and mountain, as well as Saint, XT and DX models.
What you need to know
Bearings: All Shimano SPD pedals still use loose bearings, so if you have some difficulty with assembling loose bearings, it's best to never completely disassemble the pedals.
Housing material: SPD pedal bodies are made of aluminum alloy or special carbon composite (in premium country versions), so don't worry about any cosmetic damage. It is very difficult to break the insides of the pedals.
Springs: Spiral wound steel springs are probably the main feature of all Shimano SPD clipless pedals. It is impossible to confuse the fastening in them with any other pedals.
axes A: Shimano prefers the stiffness and durability of steel axles. All Shimano SPD pedals use 6mm or 8mm hex or 15mm open end wrenches for installation.
Adjustment screws: All Shimano SPD Clipless Pedals have a 3mm Allen key to adjust release force from the pedals. Everyone will be able to choose the effort to their liking.
To begin with, we will tell you how to conduct an ultra-fast service, and after that we will describe the full service algorithm, do not switch!
Tool:
- 7, 10 and 17 mm wrenches
- Hexagons
- Grease
- Degreaser
- Chain lubricant
- Spline puller (if needed)
Clean the pedals
To avoid the possibility of dirt getting inside the pedal, and to make your work more pleasant, clean the pedals of dirt. You can use a degreaser or hot water and liquid detergent from your kitchen (just don't take too much, so you don't fly in from your wife/mum). Ideally, let the pedals dry out or dry them with compressed air from a compressor.
Pull axle
Unscrewing the axle from the pedal body is not difficult at all, use 17mm wrench or a spline puller if you have splined pedals. Be careful! The right pedal has a reverse thread and must be unscrewed clockwise!(Don't use a wrench, I'm just a lazy ass and couldn't find a 17mm wrench).
Clean the axle and its seat
After unscrewing the pedal housing, simply remove it from the axle. If the grease is black, then it's time to change it. Delete old grease and dirt from the axle, and if you are not lazy and you have a degreaser or kerosene, then wash the axle in it. After the procedure, thoroughly wipe the pedal with a rag.
Pedal Assembly
Use grease, fill the inner cavity of the pedal body with it, and return the axle to its place. Tighten the axle, taking into account the direction of the thread. The case has a mark with the direction and the inscription TIGHTEN, but if you have it erased, then know that the axis is twisted clockwise for the left and counterclockwise for the right.
Grease will come out of the slots between the body and the axle, don't worry, this is normal. If dirty grease comes out, then clean grease squeezes it out, and that's good! Repeat the procedure with filling the cavity of the pedal body with grease until clean grease comes out. This will mean that you have almost completely replaced the old grease.
Don't forget to tighten the axle to the required torque (10Nm). If you don't have a torque wrench, then know that you don't have to go too far. Just screw the axle into the pedal body with the required force.
Lubricate the spring
It's good to lubricate the spring that holds the spike from your boot to the pedal. Great for chain lube. Don't overdo it and don't use a lot of lube, you don't want that extra dirt sticking to the pedal, right?
clean threads
Clean the threads in the crank and on the pedal axle with a degreaser. And do not forget to lubricate it, you do not want the pedal to boil?
Complete disassembly of the pedal
Now let's talk about full analysis the axis itself. If you have a backlash, or you suspect that the bearings are already quite worn out and want to check it, then you should completely disassemble the axle.
Loosen the locknut
Using a 7mm wrench, unscrew the lock nut, and then with a 10mm wrench, unscrew the cone that holds the bulk bearings on the axle and regulates their preload.
Visually assess the condition of the bearings. Be careful! If you take hold of the sleeve in which the bearings are installed, then most likely they will fly loose from it. Nothing holds them inside the bushing, and the bearing balls themselves are located both at the adjusting cone and on the opposite side, where this bushing meets the axle itself. If the bearings still run away, then use the method described in paragraph 8 of the article “How to eliminate pedal play” Alternately assemble the “inner” part of the bearing first, and then the outer one.
Eliminate backlash
Lubricate the bearing and tighten the adjusting cone so that the bearing rotates freely around the axis, but does not play. Secure the result with a locknut.
Assemble the pedal
Go back to " Pedal Assembly and complete the repair.
Additional life hacks
The axle nut on older and budget models of Shimano SPD pedals can be made of nylon and can be disassembled using the special tool TL-PD40 instead of the usual 17mm wrench. Use it if you want to disassemble the pedal.
If your shoes do not pedal well, then find the place on the sole where exactly the “conflict” occurs. More often than not, it's some sort of rubber spike that's preventing you from buckling up properly. Using a sharp blade, remove part of the thorn until you are satisfied with the result.
To prevent the mechanism that holds the spike from the boot to the pedal from creaking, regularly lubricate it with a lubricant containing paraffin. You can use the same lubricant for your chain. We already wrote about its advantages in the research article "".
Summed up the results of 2016 and determined the 10 best pedals for MTB and Road. As a result, you will find well-known and tested models ranging in price from $25 to $750.
Shimano PD-M520 pedals ($27)
Inexpensive pedal with very good performance. The open design keeps dirt and debris out of the pedal, ensuring trouble-free engagement.
Reversible pop-up mount, adjustable front and rear cleats, cartridge bearings.
These pedals are preferred not only by MTBs but also by road cyclists for their durability and comfort on foot.
- Weight: 380g pair.
Shimano PD-T400 CLICKR Pedals ($36)
Shimano Click'R PD-T400 pedals are easy to use and suitable for those who want to try clipless pedals for the first time.
- Lightweight spring for quick on and off.
- Weight: 507g (pair).
Time Xpresso 2 pedals ($40)
Time introduces XPRESSO, an innovation in clipless pedals.
The all-new pedals allow for the fastest, most intuitive pedaling without resistance or friction thanks to Time's patented Iclic concept.
The use of a special carbon plate instead of a traditional metal spring makes the pedals extremely light.
The wide platform of 700 mm² gives a record-breaking traction-to-weight ratio.
Time Xpresso 2 Pedal Features:
- Steel axle, composite body and composite plate.
- 700 mm² support area with replaceable resin plates
- Weight: 220g / pair
Shimano M324 SPD Clipless MTB Pedals ($43)
This pedal combines a contact mechanism (on one side) and a platform pedal body (on the other). At the same time, you can ride in cycling shoes with spikes, and in everyday shoes.
Fully rebuildable bearings (inner and outer races) provide longer pedal life.
Adjustable stud tightening means you can adjust the tightness after purchase so you can get in and out of your foot with ease, and increase the tightness as you get used to it.
- Weight: 533 g.
2017 Look Keo Classic 3 Pedals ($50)
These pedals are still extremely hard to find. Only available on select sites around the world.
Lightweight, durable, road pedals for beginners and advanced cyclists from the world famous brand Look. As the first inventor of clipless pedals, LOOK has been producing models that have been leading the way for decades.
The new model uses an innovative needle bearing retention method that increases the life of the pedals.
- The weight of a pair is 384g.
Shimano 105 5800 Carbon SPD-SL Pedals ($80)
105 PD-5800 SPD-SL road pedals for road racing. Designed for the 11-speed 105 5800 groupset. Wide, lightweight carbon fiber body provides a large contact area to maximize power transfer and support while reducing weight.
Weight: 285g pair.
Look KEO 2 Max Blade Road Pedals ($75)
KEO 2 Max Blade is made from injected and molded fiberglass composite. The two blade versions offer 2 different tension levels: version 8 and version 12.
- Weight: 240g pair
SPEEDPLAY ZERO STAINLESS pedals ($200)
Speedplay pedals that are remarkably light thanks to modern design. The hitch is built into the toe rather than the pedal, making the pedal reversible but with 1 gear (instead of 1 on each side).
- Weight: 206g pair
Time Xpresso 15 Carbon and Titanium Road Pedals ($350)
The best road pedals available today thanks to the use of carbon fiber and titanium. Pedal even faster, get in quicker and much easier thanks to a flexible carbon fiber paddle that replaces the traditional metal spring.
Weight: 133 grams a pair
Speedplay - Titanium Zero Nanogram Pedals ($755)
The Nanogram Zero has the same competition-proven technical advantages as Speedplay's lightweight Zero pedals, but has been redesigned to be lighter and improve speed performance.
- Weight 126g pair
Contact pedals are a very peculiar thing that you need to "grow up". Another question is what shoes to choose for this type of pedals. Both the first and second questions require a little bit of knowledge. It is about them that the article talks about. Pedals consist of 2 parts: a pedal and a stud screwed to the sole of the shoe with bolts. Spikes are usually included with pedals. In case of loss or damage at any time, you can easily find a replacement for the spikes, but it will cost a pretty penny.
Types of contact pedals
The standards for attaching a cleat to a pedal are divided into road and MTB. It depends on what shoes you subsequently need to purchase. It is also worth remembering that not a single contact pedals are equipped with protection against dirt or snow (in the case of skiing in winter). And if the spikes are clogged, you need to clean them.
Shimano SPD
The most famous type of pedals, which is designed for mountain bikes. Despite the high availability, the quality remains at its best, sometimes even after tens of thousands of kilometers. Depending on the conditions of use, they are likely to last 2 or more years.
The appearance of signs of wear on the pedals in the form of axle play requires a special key. Similar sores are cured in more expensive models. You can disassemble them with ordinary tools. Fans of constructors in childhood will have to sweat a lot here. Moreover, the ratio of price and estimated mileage is more than acceptable. 
Some complain about the lack of freedom for the legs in the horizontal plane. In the case of a non-standard setting of the foot, the cyclist will have to come up with something, due to the inconvenience that has arisen. As practice shows, people find different ways to solve the problem.
Shimano SPD-SL
This standard is used for road pedals. The design of road pedals is such that the foot is fixed as rigidly as possible. Unlike the standard SPD, the SPD-SL does not have any backlash whatsoever. 
It must be taken into account that the studs on road shoes almost do not allow you to walk freely due to the fact that they protrude strongly from under the feet. A set of road pedals and shoes is recommended for those who plan to spend a significant amount of time in the saddle, winding kilometer after kilometer on asphalt.
Crank Brothers
First of all, their simplified design is attractive when compared with the Shimano mentioned above. The Crank Brothers Egg Beater snaps in very nicely. Here's a comparison: Shimano pedals are clipped in as if something had been dropped from a high-rise building, and Crank Brothers - almost without sound. The cyclist will also be pleased with the greater freedom of the legs in the horizontal plane. The pedals work great in mud conditions: one way or another, the owner will buckle up. 
However, you can’t do without minuses: the durability of these pedals, judging by the numerous reviews, is somewhat less than that of eminent Japanese. And this at a higher price. From the aesthetic side, they look great, but require frequent replacement of bearings and studs. The choice is up to the future owner. 
Time attack
Consider also the Time Atac model. Feelings when riding them are more than pleasant. Simple clip-on, complemented by a reliable fixation of the leg. The disadvantage is fast-grinding spikes on the pedals and, albeit slight, but backlash. 
The forums are loudly claiming that the budget models of Time are not worth attention. But more expensive models live quite a long time, you know, change the spikes and that's it.
Look Quartz
Lots of talk about these pedals. good reviews, they also say that they are comfortable in dirty weather and that the spikes do not wear out for a long time. But the general impressions of practicality and reliability are incomprehensible. 
What kind of pedals to choose?
In general, the most optimal and practically does not require time, effort and money - Shimano. Especially for ordinary fans. If we take a specific model as an example, then Shimano M520. And you don't have to worry about contacts within 5000-7000 km. 
For frequent driving in forests or swamps, as well as in places with clay soil, it is better to choose any Crank Brothers or Look Quartz model. For those who often change contacts to treadmills and vice versa, Shimano 324 is suitable. They have a plain surface on one side, and a contact spike on the other. 
What cycling shoes to choose?
It's easier with shoes. Here you need to choose between tourist or sports shoes. Do you often have to walk? It is better to choose contact shoes specially designed for this. In the case of Shimano, these are shoes with the letters MT. In case of a lot of time cycling is much better sports models. Rigid sole, adjustable buckle and overall better foot fixation. You can walk in such boots, but it will be extremely uncomfortable.
It is often mentioned that Shimano shoes run small and it is worth taking 1 size more. If it is additionally indicated that the shoe last is wide, then you can get boots that fit your foot in a warm sock, and therefore skiing in winter will be more comfortable. The size of your bike shoes is very important. The leg in it should be well fixed, but nothing should reap. Otherwise, pain will be felt at long distances. 
