The most amazing thing about the Palio races in Siena. Palio (Il Palio) - absolutely crazy traditional horse racing in Italy Windowsill tickets

The Siena Palio horse race is held annually in the Italian city of Siena. This tradition originated in the Middle Ages - the first horse races took place in 1656, in this and subsequent years the races took place only once a year, but then, starting in 1701, the Palio holiday began to be held twice a year.

The ancient roots of this holiday are also evidenced by the fact that the Palio, held on August 16, is named in honor of the Assumption and Assumption of the Virgin Mary - Palio della Assunta, and the Palio, held on July 2, is named in honor of the patroness of Siena, Madonna di Provenzano - Palio di Provenzano Twice a year in the main square of the city - Piazza del Campo - horse races are held between the 10 districts of the city, called contrades. Each of the districts has its own coat of arms, flag, motto, colors, temple. In Siena There are 17 contrades, but only 10 contrades take part in the Palio - only 10 teams. During the next Palio, the teams change. During this medieval show, ten competing riders are dressed in costumes in the traditional colors of their contrade, and the flags and coats of arms of the contrades fly on the building of the Palace of the Commune .

The drawing of lots, which begins the 4-day holiday, takes place the day before. All 17 contrades and up to 30 horses specially bred for Siena in Sardinia initially take part in it. Jockeys from only 10 contrades are allowed to participate in the races: 7 who have not participated in the past Palio and 3 from the remaining 10. The best 10 horses, distributed by chance, are transferred to the contras. On the same day, the first trial race takes place in the square, after which concerts are held, and each contrada on its territory organizes a banquet in support of its jockey and its horse or in support of its allies. Drummers in medieval costumes parade through the streets of the city, announcing the approaching culmination of the holiday.

The races themselves begin with a colorful procession - the Corteo Storico, hundreds of participants dressed in medieval costumes. The standard bearers carry flags with the coats of arms of each of the contrades, competing with each other in their ability to handle the staff and banner. The procession is completed by a cart drawn by oxen, carrying the prize - the Palio.

The race itself, during which riders control bareback horses, includes three laps around the 333-meter-long Piazza del Campo. They usually last no more than 90 seconds. To prevent horses from immediately damaging their hooves, the famous Siena soil of a brownish-yellowish color is brought to the square, sprinkled with sand on top, and then compacted. Sometimes jockeys fall off their horses during sharp turns, then the Palio is won by the horse representing the contrada.

After the races in Siena are completed, the winner is awarded the precious Palio, his name is entered in a special memorial book, and the contrada, whose interests he represented, arranges a festive banquet in the square, which is attended by thousands of people.

Horse racing– one of the most favorite entertainments and competitions of mankind. It’s impossible to count how many winners drank from fizzy cups on the lists and hippodromes, how many awards the horses received (up to the senatorial mantle). And even now, when the iron car is replacing the racing horse everywhere, big races will continue - as long as the horses hoof in the city of Siena, on the world famous Siena Palio: the largest and most pretentious “district to district” gathering in the world.

Great Leaps Palio de Siena take place every year on July 2 and August 16. The history of this competition begins in 1590, and, as often happens, its origin is the will of the ruler of the city. But the local duke did not order the Sienese to organize horse races - on the contrary, he forbade... bullfighting, which was then a favorite pastime not only in Spain, but also in Italy. The Sienese did not grieve for long, and decided to replace it with dangerous horse races - after all, without spectacle, even bread would not go down the throats of the people. First they tried to ride bulls, then donkeys - but in 1656 it dawned on someone that they could also ride horses.

And so it happened. Each local area contrada– still enters his team at the races. At the same time, the meaning of symbols and colors is no less than in football. And what poetic names the districts have! Niccio-Shell, Oka-Goose, Torre-Tower, Tartuka-Turtle, Leocorno-Unicorn... " What contrada are you from, kid?" - “From the House Owl's contrada!" - such a conversation can easily be heard in the amazing city of Siena. Each contrada has its own fountain, baptism, square, museum and special motto - and the one born in it will be an “Eagle” or “Snail” for the whole life.

And all these regional teams, all the colors and banners can be seen in the procession that precedes the big races: the historical parade of the Corteo Storico. And after the parade, the Palio itself begins. From 17 districts of Siena Only 10, who have shown themselves well before, compete - and the rest are enviously biting their elbows.

The races take place over a distance of 1 kilometer, and the intensity of passions can be such that horses arrive at the finish line without a rider: in this case, the prize is awarded to the horse itself, and not to the jockey. And the final big races in Siena, regardless of the results, there are mass celebrations in which all areas make peace. Eagle and Turtle, Snail and Wolf are having fun under the Italian sky: being friends is more fun than competing!

Neither the heat nor the crowds stop tourists who travel to Siena from all over the world. The photo shows a panorama of Siena, opening from the vineyards of Tuscany.

We have been infected with this horse racing virus for a long time and this is the third time we have come to Siena. We were lucky to see very interesting and unusual events. The July 2017 Palio will go down in history as the Palio of Disobedience. The horses showed who's boss at the Palio!

Our existing life experience led us to Piazza del Campo a few hours before the race. The first time, arriving shortly before the start, we were unable to squeeze into the most convenient place near the fence. were unable to get into the crowded square at all; at a certain point the police stopped access. But this time we arrived long ago! There were a lot of police around the square and metal detectors were installed.

We looked into the courtyard of the Palazzo Publico. I just can’t decide to climb the tower of gluttony. 102 meters up a narrow staircase in a hot tower. The sign warns that it is better not to do this for those who have doubts about their strength and health.

Waiting impatiently for the event to begin for several hours in Piazza del Campo under the scorching sun is a ritual. They say you have to sit on the red paving stones of the square to be happy. Wow, how long have we sat for happiness this time! You can sit on the square and make a wish. To guarantee its fulfillment, some not only sit, but also lie down.

Piazza del Campo has a very unusual shape in the form of a shell and a slope of about 5 meters in one direction. There is no other one like it in the world. Siena is located on three hills, the square was built in the hollow between them. The area is divided into 9 sectors by white stone. If you look from above (with a quadcopter camera, for example, or from the gluttony tower), you will see a shell. Someday I will have to write a whole article about this square, it deserves it!

The mansions of the Siena nobility form an even line of a circle 333 meters long. During the race, horses run in a circle three times along a dirt track. The day before there was heavy rain and there were no test races; before the start of the event, workers corrected the ground.

Spectators gradually filled the square. Many dressed up in caps, T-shirts, bandanas and scarves of various contrades. Grandstand tickets for trial races cost from 50 euros, and for the Palio itself at least 500.

There was some excitement around the Palazzo Publico. All the photographers jumped up and rushed there!

The Palio was brought out to be shown to the public; it is for the possession of this silk banner that the races are fought for.

The procession is accompanied by drummers and flag bearers dressed in medieval costumes.

About an hour before the start of the event, the square is no longer crowded. Around this time, the entrance to the square is closed. Those who didn’t have time will watch the Palio through the aisles from the streets over the heads of the police.

As the sun descends to the horizon, shadow appears on Piazza del Campo.

Before the start of the races, the track is cleared and cleared. Mossiere (the manager), the captains of the contrades and distinguished guests take their places. There are crowds of reporters and television cameras around.

The firecracker that will start the races is checked several times.

Horses always appear in a truly royal manner. As if they understand their importance at this holiday. Everyone is here just to see them!

This beauty, performing from the contrada Orel, in a few minutes will throw off her jockey in a yellow suit and come first without a rider. Good video There are these test races, but in my video you can also see a rider rising from the ground and a horse running away from him. By the way, it doesn’t matter whether the jockey got to the finish line or got lost during the race. It is the horse that wins the Palio. The main thing is not to lose the head decoration with the symbols of the contrada.

But this black stallion named Tornasol tomorrow, a few minutes before the start of the main races, will decide that he is not in the mood, he doesn’t like the blue and yellow outfit of the jockey, the mass in the church in the morning was so-so, there weren’t enough carrots for breakfast, and therefore he will not take part in the Palio. No amount of persuasion for an hour will help. Tornasol will even dance for the public, but will not want to get up to the starting line. The most experienced jockey Luigi Bruschelli will not be able to persuade his favorite.

Mossiere will be forced to allow the horse to retire. The Anglo-Arab half-breed, born in 2012, was the favorite at this race, and considerable sums were bet on her. In the Contrada Turtle (Tartuca), who was counting on the victory of a strong young stallion, there will be almost mourning.

A video called “Proteste di Tornasol” on YouTube is going to blow up the Internet. With what a victorious look will a stallion who refuses to gallop leave! He will be more in the spotlight at this Palio than the winning horse. All of Italy will be glued to TV screens. But it will be tomorrow. And we are watching a test run on the eve of the races, July 1, 2017.

We take a pre-selected place near the horse formation line and cling to the fence to death so as not to be pushed back.

Photographers around you perform miracles of balancing act in the hunt for good shots. This time I took photographs hanging on the railing and raising the camera with one hand. And for some reason I also managed to tweak the settings... In such conditions you should always shoot only in automatic mode!!! A future doctor from Canada and a couple from Australia also hung nearby with cameras. In the crowd we met a very middle-aged Sienese man who had been a jockey at the Palio 20-30 years ago. He said that in those days they rode on almost wild horses, and today the animals are almost tame, which is contrary to tradition, although it is safer for jockeys and others.

Line-up of horses before the start of a race always takes a long time, although at trial races the requirements for line-up accuracy are less stringent.

However, it was probably worth clinging to the fence about 50 meters ahead in order to admire the horses’ faces in formation, and not their muscular rear parts... Let’s take into account next time!

The jumps themselves are literally seconds. But what passions are raging around!

After the race it gets dark instantly. Next on the program is a traditional walk around the city, dinner at Nannini’s pastry shop and watching the horse races on TV.

For tourists in Piazza del Campo, restaurants are once again setting up tables right on the tracks of horseshoes that have just galloped through.

Throughout Siena, traditional contrada feasts take place in the evening. Tourists are not invited, so they peep from the bushes.

Siena at night is magnificent, as always! The new camera helped me take some good pictures at night.

But this time I didn’t succeed in taking daytime photos in Siena. Experiments with the settings were not very successful, but there are still frames as a keepsake for the photo album. Next time I hope to take better pictures! After all, we will return to Siena for the Palio!

P.S. The stallion named Tornasol is still a star; journalists regularly come to him and post videos with “interviews” on the Internet. However, the horse does not reveal the secret why he refused to ride the Palio.

All experts agreed that the horse was absolutely healthy and mentally balanced. But he knows how to show character! The possibility of this horse’s participation in subsequent Palios is being discussed, including with him.

If Florence is the Sun of Tuscany, then Siena is its Moon. If Florence is Moscow, then Siena is Tver. Florence gained worldwide fame, but it was in the rivalry with Siena that its position was forged. Siena still retains its proud and unique character and many unique traditions, buildings and art.

The most famous annual event in Siena is the Palio. The Palio is a horse race that takes place twice a year - in July and August. The scale of this event cannot be overestimated. The whole city is in violent motion. Incredible crowds of tourists from all over the world gather. All central streets are blocked. All of Italy is watching with bated breath the outcome of the race. The race itself takes only 90 seconds - the horses rush three circles around the rim of Siena's extraordinary main square - Il Campo. But preparing for a race takes at least several days of ritual, rehearsal, bustle and anticipation. Palio is the quintessence of Siena and even, in a sense, the quintessence of traditional Italy.

Many years ago I had already been to Siena, I was completely blown away by it and for me it forever became one of the most favorite places in Italy. This time we found ourselves in Siena literally on the eve of the Palio. Getting to the Palio itself is an almost impossible task, Arab sheikhs and American billionaires pay incredible amounts of money for the few spectator seats in the houses around the square, and mere mortals take free seats in the center of the square 24 hours before the competition. But the Palio rehearsals - which take place in the days leading up to the Palio - can be attended with much less effort. That's what we did!

And it’s worth starting with a panorama of Il Campo - the main square - on the day of the rehearsal!

Of course, we first walked along it during the day. Piazza del Campo is one of the most glorious medieval squares in Europe. It is decorated with the main building of Siena - Palazzo Publico (town hall) with its tower, Torre del Mangia - the silhouette of which, once seen, you will never forget.

Campo Square is also unusual in that it is built in the shape of a shell - its floor is inclined and seems to converge to one central point, this gate to the town hall. Now the slopes - the shell doors - are not visible, because an earthen path has been laid around the square, along which the Palio horses will actually run!

The whole city is full of anticipation. There are posters hung everywhere that explain which entrances and exits will be open on Il Campo at what time. There will be such a crowd that understanding the complex geography of the old city will come in handy!

The only cars that can enter Siena on this day are cars that deliver horses.

Siena is historically divided into 17 contrades - that is, historical administrative units-communities. Each contrada has its own borders, flag, colors and emblem. For example, there is an Eagle contrade, a Dragon contrade, a Snail contrade and a Tower contrade. It is between the contradas that competition takes place during the Palio. Each contrada is also united by neighboring and family ties. Already on the day of the first rehearsal, the contradas begin festive preparations for the races - which looks like closed streets and a joint meal. In general, tourists are prohibited from walking along such a street, but I pretended not to understand and even took a couple of pictures. This is the Tower's contrada feast.

Wandering around Siena, there is no doubt about which contrada you are in - flags are hung everywhere. The border between the Tower and the Unicorn contrades runs along this street.

Such solitude as in the previous picture is almost impossible to find in Siena these days. This pandemonium looks more like this:

We came across the Turtle contrada flag bearers, who were impressively rehearsing their dance -

Either tossing the flags up, or intricately crossing them -

But finally it was evening and we took our place in the fenced center of the square.

I look around the area:

I stop at Torre di Mangia:

Looking to the sky:

The stands at the town hall are full of children from every contrada:

Which photographers are fiercely photographing:

Worth it! Dragon Contrada.

Children of the Tower contrada - it just so happened that we lived in a hotel on the territory of this contrada and I also really like its color scheme, so I have it in almost every photo.

Spectators sat on any available balcony or ledge!

The audience is full of excitement:

We notice horses and jockeys taking the victory lap:

The contrade children rejoice as they meet their representatives:

In general, only 10 contrades out of 17 participate in each Palio. The system by which they are selected is as follows. In the Palio of August 2015, 7 contradas are participating that did not participate in the Palio of the previous August, plus three more contradas, which are chosen by lot. The same system applies for the July Palio. Thus, in a given year, a given contrada may participate in both Palios, only one, or even none of them, depending on its turn and luck.

The most successful contrada is the Goose contrada. Over 400 years, she won the Palio 65 times. Orla's contrada won the least - 24 times.

Riders in the colors of the Dragon and Snail contrades. For Sienese, the Palio is a matter of life and death. Contrada, who wins the Palio, ascends to the heavens with happiness and throws a huge celebration. Its traditional enemies - each contrada has its own - are grieving. But the saddest of all are the so-called "grandmothers" ("nonna") - this is the contrada that has gone the longest without winning the Palio. To date, this title belongs to the She-Wolf contrada - her last victory was in 1989!

And finally the cannon fires and ten horses rush into a gallop around the square - the rehearsal has begun! I deliberately publish the video I made in full to convey the atmosphere of excitement and chaos that reigns in Piazza del Campo even during the rehearsal - I can imagine how crazy it is there during the Palio itself!

The rehearsal is over, the tourists are leaving for their hotels, and the Sienese are going to the contrada festivals, which will go on almost continuously until the Palio denouement!

At that time (it was Thursday) we of course did not know who would win the real race on Sunday. The Palio on August 17, 2015 was won by Contrada Lesa. The future winner is visible in the video. This is a horse and a jockey in an orange and green suit.

Every year, hundreds of thousands of tourists flock to the Italian city of Siena to see, in addition to ancient architecture, the famous Palio horse race. There is something about the word “Horse Racing”, and the upcoming races in the medieval city herald a simply extraordinary spectacle!

The Palio horse race (Il Palio) is held in Siena twice a year - on July 2 and August 16 and is a completely unique phenomenon, because the traditions of the Palio have remained virtually unchanged for many centuries. The horse race, which takes place on July 2, is named Palio di Provenzano in honor of the Madonna di Provenzano (the church of the same name is located in Siena). The Palio, which takes place on August 16th, is called the Palio della Assunta in honor of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin.

Initially, racing was carried out on bulls, then on donkeys. The first Palio with horses is believed to have taken place on July 2, 1656. IN last years The Sienese felt there were not enough spectacles, and they began to periodically organize additional, third races in the period from May to September, timed to coincide with significant events, such as, for example, the onset of the Millennium or the 100th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

The races are preceded by a special ritual, the Corteo Storico, which exactly repeats the medieval one. The races themselves last no more than one and a half minutes. 10 horses race three times around the famous Piazza del Campo, the total length of the distance is about 1 kilometer. Traditionally, riders ride bareback and often fall off their horses on sharp turns. A horse can win a race alone - the victory is awarded to the horse. If the rider wins, he receives a cash prize, and the contrado goes to the Palio - a silk banner depicting the Madonna and Child.

The Palio features 10 horses representing 10 contrades (districts). There are 17 contradas in Siena today; previously there were up to 80.

Contrades of Siena:
1. Aquila (Eagle)
2. Bruco (Caterpillar)
3. Chiocciola (Snail)
4. Civetta (Owl)
5. Drago (Dragon)
6. Giraffa (Giraffe)
7. Istrice (Porcupine)
8. Leocorno (Unicorn)
9. Lupa (She-Wolf)
10. Nicchio (Shell)
11. Oca (Goose)
12. Onda (Wave)
13. Pantera (Panther)
14. Selva (Forest)
15. Tartuca (Turtle)
16. Torre (Tower)
17. Valdimontone (Ram)

The contrades were formed in the Middle Ages and play a significant role in the life of the Sienese people. Contrada lives as one big family, sharing joys and sorrows together. Of course, every contrada has allies and opponents. Belonging to the contrada continues after marriage; born boys belong to the father's contrade, girls - to the mother's contrada. The Goose and Wolf counters have no allies, and the Caterpillar, Dragon, Giraffe and Forest counters have no official opponents.

About a month before the races, Siena begins to be decorated with contrade flags. Residents also dress up in matching colored caps and bandanas. 3 days before the race, June 29 and August 13, respectively, the 10 best are selected from 30 horses and a draw is held to determine which horse will represent which race. Which 10 contrades out of 17 will take part in the Palio is determined by alternating the performances of 7 contrades and by drawing lots for the missing three contrades.

The racing area on the square is fenced off and a special soil covering is poured in, which simultaneously protects the ancient pavement from damage and the horses’ legs from possible injuries. On the eve of the races, several trial races are held, accompanied by processions with music and songs, as well as long feasts after the races. On the day of the Palio, a dress rehearsal is held in the morning, after which the riders and their horses go to the church for a special rite of passage. The priest reads a prayer, after which he admonishes each horse with the phrase: “Ve torna vincitore (Go and return victorious).” The races themselves are held at sunset, when the heat of the day subsides.

Having studied all of the above, we went to Siena, realizing that we would see something completely unique. At the southern gate of the city we were greeted by Onda (Wave) contrada flags. The symbol of this contrada is a dolphin, the colors are blue and white. The motto of the contrada is: “The color of the sky, the power of the sea” (“Il colore del cielo, la forza del mare”). Contrada Volna has the title of captain of the contrada, in the past its soldiers guarded the Palazzo Pubblico.

It was the day of trial races on June 30, but no less tourists came. Along the decorated streets, everyone moved towards the main square, Piazza del Campo. Tables were prepared in the streets for the evening celebration. On that day, the residents of the Volna contrada did not yet know that it was their horse that would come first on July 2, 2012.

The streets of Siena gradually became almost deserted.

On the day of the Palio race, Piazza del Campo is always filled to capacity. All the balconies of the houses facing the square are also occupied, despite the fact that for this pleasure you have to pay from 500 euros. The spectacle from Siena is broadcast on television and overshadows all other news in Italy that day.

Before the start of the races, the police had some difficulty clearing the fenced off track.

The spectators froze in anticipation.

From time to time the men sang a hymn with inspiration.

In general, the entertainment is more popular among the men of Siena, as it seemed to me. Visiting tourists, however, also really liked it.

The process of building horses traditionally lasts much longer than the race itself. The tradition was followed in the test run.

Half-wild horses were not very willing to line up in the required order.

The races themselves passed, or rather galloped, so quickly that we simply did not have time to take photographs. But the video fully conveys the atmosphere of the event.

There was no winner this time, so all the horses after the race were the center of attention of spectators and reporters.

After the races, we walked around Siena in the flow of tourists, and even managed to have dinner at a small restaurant. Finding a free table on such an evening was not easy.

For the Palio, absolutely everything in Siena is decorated with colorful flags and coats of arms of the contrades, even the window display of the famous Nannini pastry shop. Caps and silk scarves with Palio symbols are sold on all corners.

In the rays of the setting sun, the Siena Cathedral Duomo di Siena of the 13th century looked luxurious.

The cathedral was closed, that evening even the clergy were in Piazza del Campo!

When it got dark, tables from nearby restaurants were set up on Siena's main square, Piazza del Campo, directly on the horse racing track. Traces of the horseshoes of horses that had recently galloped here were still visible on the ground.

In the center of the square, the local orchestra was slightly out of tune, playing popular tunes, but this only lifted the mood of those around.

The waiters were busy taking orders for wines and traditional Tuscan cuisine. The famous Italian chocolate ice cream, served flaming, was excellent.

Celebrations for the Palio horse trial race (a great occasion!) continued throughout the city, not just in the main square. We had the opportunity to see that the contrada in Siena is almost a family affair.

On Sunday, processions of contrade residents in medieval outfits were expected to the beat of drums. It seems that you can come to Siena every day, you won’t be bored. In this beautiful city, you can get bored with great pleasure, walking along the perfectly preserved medieval streets. The gaze stops at something literally every minute. Siena is rightly considered one of the most beautiful and interesting cities in Italy. Every stone, every door handle here has its own story.

The last thing we saw in Siena was the Volna contrada fountain in the image of a dolphin, which is a symbol of this contrada. They say that the favorite pastime of tourists in Siena is searching for all the fountains and other attributes of the contrada. Each contrada has its own flag, motto, square, museum, fountain and baptism.

Oh, how much more we haven’t had time to see and learn in this wonderful city! More precisely, we didn’t manage to do anything at all in one evening!

Finally, one more shot of Siena shining with the lights of the night, from the car window. I didn’t want to leave at all... We will definitely come back!